3D printer set z offset

How to Calibrate the Z-Offset on the E2 3D Printer

Knowing how to operate a 3D printer includes learning how to calibrate the Z offset. The Z offset on the E2 from Raise3D has some capabilities that allow it to perform with high precision. Calibrating a Z-offset can feel overwhelming, but Raise3D improved one of the most common calibration methods to become a more straight-forward process for any user.

The Z-offset is the distance that the tip of the Z-probe moves before getting trigged. It is marked as “distance B” in the figure below. The Z-probe from Raise3D is designed with high precision (repeat error ≤ 0.012mm) giving it the ability to treat the distance between the tip of the nozzle and the trigger point (distance A in the figure below) as a stable value. The proper Z-offset can be determined automatically by adding the value A to the Z-offset (distance B). Keep in mind that the B distance varies slightly between probes, so achieving optimal results requires finding the correct B value for each printer.

Figure 1: Probe trigger height

One way for users to calibrate the Z-offset is to observe the outcome of the first printed layer, then manually set the height differences values(as shown in Figure 2). If the nozzle is too high, then the value will be too small. If the nozzle is too low, then the value should be reduced.
Overall, this method requires repeated printing and measurement, which is tedious, complicated, and inefficient.

Figure 2: Guidelines for manually adjusting the Z-offset value based on first layer results

Raise3D built on the core principle of this method and developed some preliminary improvements. The user would be presented with multiple lines at a time, with each line using a slightly increased printing height. The user would then compare all the lines and select the one with the best printing quality. This method greatly reduces measurement times.

However, our double-blind trials found two main concerns regarding this method:

1. Because the difference between the printed straight lines is slight, it is difficult for users to determine which line achieves the best result.

2. “Best” is a subjective term, and individuals have different standards for “line quality”. This resulted in deviations as great as 0.5mm between values identified as the “best” printing height.

Due to these concerns, Raise3D wanted to find a measurement method with less variability. Testing showed that when the nozzle is a certain height above the heatbed, the printed line will become wavy, but if the nozzle is below this height, the printed line will not be wavy. Selecting the first wavy line in a series is a more straight-forward task than choosing the “best” line, which resolves issue 1.

After that, double-blind trials tested whether the first wavy line is a stable indicator. The results of these trials would show whether this updated process removes the subjectivity and variability discussed in issue 2.

The double-blind trial results are as follows:

Figure 3: Relative Error Compared to Standard Value.

Based on this trial result, this method resolves issue 2, and can be used to clearly and stably measure the height differences between the nozzle and the probe’s trigger point. Therefore, the E2’s offset calibration based on this method.

We have explored the principle of wavy line generation. Melted filament, as anon-Newtonian fluid, will generate the Liquid Rope-Coil Effect when extruded at a certain height. When the printer head moves, the rope coil is pulled, producing an even wavy line. The main influencing factors of the Liquid Rope-Coil Effect are the melt flow index of the non-Newtonian fluid, the extrusion height, and the extrusion speed. When different filaments melt at the same temperature, the non-Newtonian fluids have large differences in melt-index. This means that filaments with different diameters under the same feed rate may have different extrusion speeds. These differences affect the height of the wavy line, which can lead to large deviations in the offset calibration measurement results.

The measurements of the offset calibrations results were compared to measurements taken with high-precision instruments to find the deviation between them. So far this comparison has only been made using Raise3D Premium PLA filaments.

For third-party filaments, users can utilize the values from the offset calibration that was performed with Raise3D Premium PLA. All filaments are different, so small adjustments may need to be made depending on the results of the first layer. Exploration on how to make the offset calibration more compatible with third-party filaments is still ongoing.

Since the offset calibration prints lines in the center of the print surface, applying glue or other surface treatments may affect the accuracy of the final values. It is also important that the bed be as level as possible to achieve an accurate offset value.

3. How can the printer’s Z-offset be adjusted?

There are two ways that you can adjust the Z-offset:

1. You can use the calibration menu to automatically calibrate the Z-offset. On your printer’s screen, tap “Setting>Maintenance>Offset Calibration”.

2. You can manually modify the offset in “Setting>More Settings>Hardware>Z Probe Offset”. Increasing this value will reduce the Z-offset, and decreasing this value will increase the Z-offset.

Connect with Raise3D:

Have you had a great experience with Raise3D that you would like to share? Please contact us at [email protected]. We look forward to hearing from you.

For more information about Raise3D printers and services, browse our website, or schedule a demo with one of our 3D printing experts.

What it is and how to adjust it

Adjustment of the 3D printer’s Z offset is a way to achieve successful prints in a variety of situations, such as when using filament with poor adhesion or when using a thick build surface.

This article goes over the basics of Z offset, discussing the meaning of the term, the reasons why users might need to incorporate a Z offset, and looking at how to adjust this key parameter in three different ways: using G-code, slicing software, and a 3D printer’s physical LCD display.

A Z offset is a user-defined print setting that allows the printhead to be positioned above or below the default Z home position (true zero point).

A standard Cartesian-style FDM 3D printer has a printhead that moves along three axes. Movement along the X and Y axes allows the printhead to “draw” each 2D layer, while movement along the Z axis allows the printhead to move upwards to the next layer.

Because a 3D printer has a fixed build volume, there are limits to how far the printhead can move along any of these three axes. And to prevent the printer from trying to exceed these limits, hardware manufacturers install small sensors called limit switches (or endstops) which detect when a moving part has reached its limit and cannot move any further. 

The limit switch on the Z axis is important because it effectively prevents the printhead from burrowing into the build surface, which could potentially cause damage to the print bed and the hotend. The limit switch recognizes when the printhead is at its lowest possible point, and prevents it from descending further. The Z probe on a printer with automatic bed leveling performs the same function.

The “home position” of the printhead more-or-less corresponds to the position where these limit switches kick in. So when a printer is “homed,” the printhead sits in a corner of the print bed, just fractionally above the surface. But sometimes a user might want the printhead’s default starting position to be slightly higher or lower on the Z axis. This can be achieved by introducing a Z offset, and there are several reasons why a user might do this. 

It is important to understand that adjustment of the Z offset is not an essential form of calibration like bed leveling. Bed leveling, which should be performed when a 3D printer is set up or when a new component has been installed, ensures the nozzle is the correct distance from the print bed at every point across the build surface. It is a necessary procedure for preventing print failure.

By contrast, adjusting the Z offset is a secondary step that users may wish to perform in order to accommodate changes to material type or build surface, or simply to achieve a better first layer. Reasons for adjusting the Z offset include:

• First layer: Setting a Z offset can help achieve a good first layer that is neither too far from the build plate (which can lead to adhesion issues[1]) nor too close (which can lead to extrusion issues).

• Compensating for change in build surface: If changes are made to the build surface — adding a PEI sheet on top of the bed, for example — then the printhead may need to be repositioned so it does not sit too close to the new surface.

• Catering to a different material: Some filaments (PLA, for instance) work best when slightly squashed down onto the build surface in order to improve adhesion; others (like PETG) respond better when deposited from a greater height.

• Printing onto a substrate: It is possible to print directly onto another object rather than onto the print bed. An easy way to do this is to adjust the Z offset to compensate for the thickness of the substrate.

Printing onto a thick glass build surface may require a positive Z offset

Before making adjustments, users should level their print bed, either using their printer’s auto bed leveling function or by manual adjustment of bed leveling knobs.

Auto bed leveling (ABL), a feature that is becoming more common on FDM printers, involves the use of a component called a Z probe. This probe measures the gap between the print bed at nozzle tip at different points on the bed. If the distance is equal at all points, the bed is level; if the gaps differ between points, it is not. Confusingly, ABL doesn’t actually involve a physical leveling of the bed. Rather, it instructs the printhead to compensate for any unevenness by adjusting its height at different points.

Manual bed leveling, on the other hand, does involve physically leveling (or tramming) the bed. The most common method is to use a piece of paper sandwiched between the nozzle and the build surface; when pulled, the paper should offer slight resistance. If there is no friction, the nozzle is too far from the bed, but if the paper offers too much resistance or gets stuck, it is too close. This exercise should be repeated at different points across the bed, with the bed leveling knobs used to make incremental adjustments.

One way to adjust Z offset when 3D printing is to use G-code. However, beginners may prefer to use the more intuitive Z offset settings in their slicer or on their printer’s LCD display.

The relevant G-code commands for adjusting Z offset are G0 (move) and G92 (set position). To add a 0.1 mm Z offset (i.e. to increase the space between bed and nozzle tip by 0.1 mm), input the following commands:

1. G0 Z0 (This instructs the printhead to move to the zero point on the Z axis.)

2. G92 Z-0. 1 (This instructs the printer to interpret its current position as though it is 0.1 mm lower. So, logically, the next time G0 Z0 is input, the printhead will position itself 0.1 mm higher than it did the first time.)

An alternative way of achieving the same effect would be to input the following commands:

1. G0 Z0.1 (This instructs the printhead to move 0.1 mm above the zero point.)

2. G92 Z0 (This instructs the printer to treat its current position — 0.1 mm higher than the original zero point — as the new zero point.)

Note that to add a negative offset — i.e. to decrease the space between nozzle and bed — then any positive values in the above examples should become negative ones, and any negative values should become positive ones. For example, inputting the commands G0 Z0 and G92 Z0.1 will position the nozzle tip 0.1 mm closer to the bed.[2]

A slightly easier way to adjust the Z offset is to change the settings in your slicing software. The outcome is the same, as the slicer is effectively just changing the G-code, but the interface of the slicer may be more user-friendly, especially for beginners.

Setting a negative value will position the printhead closer to the build surface than true zero, while setting a positive value will move it further away from the build surface.

Simplify3D

To adjust Z offset in Simplify3D, find the “G-Code” tab under “Edit Process Settings.” The “Z-Axis Offset” setting can be found in the “Global G-Code Offsets” section, along with offsets for the other two axes. The Z offset is defined in millimeters.

Cura

To adjust Z offset in Ultimaker Cura, a Z offset plugin like this one is required. Once the plugin is installed, search “Z Offset” in the settings search bar (under the “Profile” drop-down box) to bring up the parameters. The Z offset value is defined in millimeters.

Slic3r

To adjust Z offset in Slic3r, navigate to “Printer Settings” (not “Print Settings”). Z offset, defined in millimeters, can be found in the “Size and coordinates” section at the top of the page.

All 3D printers running Marlin firmware (including the Creality Ender 3) allow for adjustment of Z offset using the printer’s LCD display.

On the display, navigate to the “Control” section. Within that section, find the “Motion” settings. Z Offset is the first parameter in this group of settings.

Finding the ideal Z height for a print can take time, but adjusting Z offset is a relatively simple procedure that users should exploit in order to accommodate new build surfaces and new materials, or when troubleshooting issues with the first layer. The easiest way to add a Z offset is to adjust settings within the slicer, but more experienced users may prefer to use G-code commands.

[1] Singh A, Yadav PK, Singh K, Bhaskar J, Kumar A. Design of 3D Printed Fabric for Fashion and Functional Applications. InAdvances in Manufacturing and Industrial Engineering 2021 (pp. 729-735). Springer, Singapore.

[2] RepRap contributors. G-code [Internet]. RepRap. 2022 [cited

2022 May 27]. Available from: https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=G-code&oldid=189591

Build Tronxy X3 3D printer - setup

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DIY kit

First of all, when I saw this kit on sale, and then, in the process assembly and debugging, I rushed to look for at least some mention of it in Networks. I wanted to use someone else's experience in assembling, launching and configuring, reduce the time until a normally working device is received. It didn’t turn out very well - as usual, there are recommendations, but they look for the most part doubtful, strange, and in places obviously wrong. I had to figure it out myself, I post the results here, in sequence that he went through.

I will note as an important moment for the "young builder" - set works "out of the box" , all wires are connected according to the instructions manufacturer, no changes to the control board, firmware "marlin", improvements and improvements to the power supply and the mechanical part printer was not carried out. Everything that has been done is described below.

1. Auto level with capacitive sensor

This is the first thing to set up after assembling the printer.

The design has two Z-axis motors that operate simultaneously, raising and lowering the print head (hot end), along with all the mechanics of the X axis (which moves left and right). it good - the frame does not warp in the guides, at the same time they are not mechanically connected in any way, and the switched off motors can be turned regardless. Therefore, the first thing to do is to set a profile the X axis parallel to the base of the frame by twisting one of the Z axis motors. The easiest way to do this is with a caliper. You can also use any suitable object, applying it to uprights and seating both sides of the X-axis profile at its height.

We unscrew the adjusting nuts of the printer table so that the thread did not protrude - flush with the surface of the nuts. Next - turn on printer and do "auto home", which is located in the "prepare" section. The printer will move, lower the head in the middle of the table and on the sensor, which is fixed on the head, the red light will turn on. At least least - all the wires are connected correctly, and everything works.

Now you need to set the table to the horizon. Turn off the printer, now You can move the X and Y axes by hand. We expose the print head above each adjusting screw of the table and achieve an equal distance between printer head and table top at all four corners. In that In fact, a caliper is also very convenient.

Do "auto home" again. After that, you need to measure the distance from the tip of the printhead nozzle to the tabletop. It doesn't look easy but first you need accuracy within 2-3 tens, so I, for example, I measured the dimension of the entire "top - nozzle" assembly, and subtracted this value from the measurement "top-table surface" (on the top photo)

The resulting difference is the distance from the tip of the nozzle to table surface. It must be entered into the EEPROM of the printer - it permanent memory where constants are stored. "Control" section, "Motion", "Z offset" - set the value in millimeters and tenths. Then we return to "Control" and execute "Store memory". If not confidence in the quality of the measurement, it is better to put a smaller value, the printer at the beginning of printing will not rest against the table with the head when "span", and it will be possible to clarify the value later.

After that you can do "Prepare" - "Auto leveling". Printer determines the level of the table at nine points along the perimeter and averages (as far as I understood :)) Z-axis shift value depending on "curvature" of our table level setting.

Hardware ready for testing.

We install the software program repeater host, we connect the printer, we load something small, for example such a detail, and send it to seal. As a result, a small stub should be printed, but we first of all, the outline is interesting, which is printed in one line around the detail. Its default height in the program settings is 0.35 mm for the first layer. Farther - simply. If the thread turned out to be thicker - add the difference value to value "Z offset", thinner - remove.

This completes the table calibration and more special does not require attention.

bar feed calibration and printer upgrade>>>

Simplify3D manual. How to use Simplify3D

04/14/2020 in Expert Blog, Observations, Science, Equipment, Education, Articles, Technologies

Introduction.

I'm sitting at five in the morning, working, and here you are, a letter has arrived. A person cannot prepare a print job for a 3D printer. Asks for help. Have you seen the time? The landfill is not working, Kislayser too, but the person is suffering, I think let me help. The result of my help was gratitude and a well-printed part. And by the way, I didn’t lift a finger, I just uploaded the model in Simplify and prepared the model for printing through the profile I had previously configured. But when you sit at 5 in the morning and work, even such a trifle distracts.

I decided to write my manual because I couldn't find any decent information on the Internet, especially in Russian. There is one video, but a colleague explains it somehow long and drawn out (link to video below). Probably I'm used to perceive information in the form of text. It seems to be getting old.

I was also repeatedly asked to record a separate video explaining all the features of the program, but I decided to write a text article. Why? Because it is more convenient to use the article if you forgot something. I'm using the macOS version as an example.

Introductory part I want to start with the reason why I use Simplify3D.

1. The program is very easy to use.
2. No equal in code preparation speed.
3. Works well with large models (other slicers just freeze for ever). However, the power of your computer should be sufficient. Although this is not news. We must understand that we are working with 3D models. For such work, the default computer should be as powerful as possible.
4. Ability to work with processes. At the time of writing, analogues do not have such an opportunity. Processes allow you to set different print options for different layers.

Program start.

And so let's start. And we will start by learning to distinguish between what is a profile and what is a process in simple.

A profile is a basic file that contains the main printer settings: workspace size, origin, number of extruders, temperature conditions for different materials, start-code, end-code, etc. All this can be configured and changed when g-code is prepared, while the basic settings are pulled from the profile.

However, it is not the profile that is responsible for preparing the G-Code, but the process assigned to this profile or, if necessary, several processes. In the process, all other print parameters are set: layer height, number of supports, print speed, etc. It should be noted that the profile is one, and there can be an unlimited number of processes. For example, if there is a need to print half of the part with a layer height of 0.3 mm, and half 0.2 mm. Or part of the part should have 20% infill and part 50%.

For almost any 3D printer, a profile and processes can be created manually, and this will be discussed in this article. If you are too lazy to read or circumstances do not allow you to devote time to studying this article, you can send a request for prepared profiles to [email protected]. Everyone else, read on.

I won't focus on installing the program, because if you don't know how to install the program on your computer, then you are not destined to learn Simplify3D.

Open the program and see the main screen.

In the picture I have shown what each button means. To simplify the learning process, I advise everyone to click on each button and try how it works by first downloading your 3D model. To load a 3D model, you need to click on “import” in the “3D list” section or stupidly drag the model into the program window.

What should be done right away?

Switched to work in Simplify3D, I also worked in other slicers. Almost everywhere the speed is shown in millimeters per second. For some reason, in Simplify3D this parameter is measured in other units. To fix this ailment, you need to go to the settings.

Let's go over the rest of the buttons:

Unit system - Select the measurement system. Actually, we choose in which measurement system it is more convenient to work in Inches - inches or Millimeters - millimeters.

Swap mouse scholl wheel zoom direction