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3D printer glass clips


3D Printer Glass Bed Clips Ender 3 Swiss Mounting Clips

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Listed on Jan 5, 2023

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Attaching Glass Bed without Spring Clips.

Posted on | by Chalkie

My Ender 3 came with a glass bed and spring clips as well as the more usual composite bed. I like the glass bed and generally get (what I regard as) good results from it. I’ve hardly ever used the composite bed. But the thing I really hate with the Ender 3 is attaching the glass bed with spring clips to hold the bed in place.

Two spring clips at the front and two at the back. Ugh!

The fact that they take up some bed space is rarely a problem. It’s just … well …. they look really naff. But worse than naffness is the fact that they can foul the print head if it gets too close.

It’s as if that after they put the Ender 3 into production, somebody realised that they hadn’t figured out a way of attaching the glass bed. They urgently needed to fix the problem. But all they had to work with was the contents of the stationery cupboard

 

To summarise: I hate the spring clips.

So what is to be done?

I know a lot of people use sticky tape. But that doesn’t exactly impress me either. So I thought I’d look for another solution. And there is one. A simple solution at that. But first (of course) I had to try and be clever. (I never learn)

My initial thought was to build a set of interlocking fences with corner wedges that would hold the glass bed in place. I designed up a set and they seem to work but there are multiple problems.

The Fence (or half of it) Nice idea shame about the implementation

1. The nozzle fouled on the left hand corner when I auto-homed.

2. Getting any form of strip in around the bed heater element at the back was fraught. (to say the least)

I spent several hours trying to figure out way of using these fences. I myopically locked in on fences as the only solution.

Then my wife brought me a cup of tea. I explained what a bad time I was having. She went away and came back one minute later holding one of these. Its a plastic spine for an A4 document.

Typical push on A4 folder/book spines

I cut out two 75mm sections and then trimmed down one of them so the resulting “clamp” pushed onto the bed right up to the back of the spine. I didn’t do the other one I just left it as-is.

I’ve printed two Avocado seed holders so far without mishap (g-code to be put up soon on thingiverse). Here’s in in action.

It seems a good, cheap and effective solution. Now the print head won’t risk fouling when printing near the edge like it did when I was using spring clips. Of course there is also the ability to use longer lengths than 75mm. 75mm was an arbitrary length I chose simply because it sounded about right. But the full spines are longer than the bed is wide. You could cut it so that it clipped in the whole side of the bed.

If you want to try it and don’t have a spare spine you can get some cheap ones on Amazon on This Link

Posted in 3D Printing

We make a convenient desktop glass holder from an ordinary stationery clothespin.

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33

Hello everyone.

Like many others, I use glass for printing and fix it to the 3D printer table with ordinary stationery clothespins.

This has a very unpleasant minus for me - when auto-leveling the head before printing or printing on the borders of the table, the head touches this clothespin

and here other troubles are already waiting

In general, I rummaged through the wonderful Aliexpress and found interesting options, but each had its own nuance:

In principle, the price tag here is not large and even holes can be drilled by placing these fasteners so that they clamp the glass and countertop. But in the reviews, I found this useful advice that made me very upset:

Having estimated that I have a glass of 3 mm and a countertop of at least 4 mm, I realized that 3 + 4 doesn’t work out well, 5 mm, I went to scour further.

I found an interesting universal option:

I was happy with such a decision, because now you can simply press it to the desired thickness by simply tightening the bolt! But when I saw the price tag, the first words that I could utter "Why pay so much?". And after reading the comments, I found a review that these clamps tend to unscrew during vibration and there is very little sense from them. nine0003

And so I found the ideal:

And how beautifully it lies on the table:

But the price tag of 700 rubles cooled my mind!

I thought, maybe I can make something myself... Or maybe also from cheap materials at hand?! And my eyes fell on the clerical clothespin, which lay innocently on the table.

And what if we make the third option, which I liked but with the thickness dimensions I needed, so that everyone could repeat it easily and cheaply, as we love! nine0003

After astronomical calculations of the geometry of the third option. scrupulous search for the ideal in the universe, I realized that his profile looks plus or minus like this:

The top bar should be flat, there should be bends at the bottom for convenient "dressing" of this mount on a glass sandwich with a hundred table top.

So now the most delicious, namely the recipe for making such a clothespin:

0003

3. We take out straight arms and start bending the metal, as shown below:

output you will have such an ugly, but absolutely functional clothespin:

It remains to spoil 3 more stationery clothespins and you will have the whole family of new clothespins assembled for a full-fledged fastening of glass to the table top. Well, here's how this clothespin feels next to the hotend's head:

And this is what this clothespin looks like from a bird's eye view:

Some kind of helmet))))

Here is a short video about the above in an abbreviated format (there is no Woof kitten):

I hope you liked the article , and this little upgrade invention from Seryoga Ganzha will be useful.

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