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Creality Halot-One Plus 3D Printer Review: 4K Resolution, Sub-$400 Price

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Creality Halot-One Plus is just the right size for a desktop resin 3D printer.

(Image: © Tom's Hardware)

Tom's Hardware Verdict

Offering high resolution and an above-average build volume, the Creality Halot-One Plus is an impressive machine with a set of hardware features not typically seen at this price.

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Pros

+
4K+ resolution provides sharp detail and consistent surfaces
+
Large 5-inch LCD interface is bright, fast, and responsive
+
Halot Box slicer software is simple and easy to use
+
Built-in Wi-Fi connectivity and remote print monitoring
+
Integrated air filtration unit

Cons

-
Z endstop placement at the top of the Z axis is a strange choice
-
Creality Cloud platform appears to host many unauthorized models
-
Four bolt build platform leveling can be messy

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The Creality Halot-One Plus is the flagship printer in the Halot line of MSLA printers, offering 4K resolution, a 7.9-inch mono LCD with a 3 second exposure time, and other high-end features in a package that retails for just under $400. The Halot-One Plus appears to have been designed for the prosumer market, with features like Wi-Fi connectivity, air filtration, and other features that don’t typically appear in printers in this price range.

During testing, this printer proved to be a logical next-step in resin 3D printing, showing how these features can be successfully implemented at a lower price point while still maintaining functionality. We had issues with the Creality Cloud platform and the lack of attribution on published models, but the printer hardware itself places this among the best resin 3D printers.

Creality Halot-One Plus Specifications

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Machine Footprint	9.29" x 9.57" x 16.46" (23.6cm x 24.3cm x 41.8cm)
Build Volume	6.77" x 4.02" x 6.30" (172mm x 102mm x 160mm)
Resin	MSLA Photopolymer Resin
UV Light	4,500 uw/m2 Integral Light Source
Masking LCD Resolution	4320 x 2560
Masking LCD Size	7.9-inch
XY Axis Resolution	.04mm
Interface	5-inch LCD Touchscreen

Included in the Box of Creality Halot-One Plus

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

The Creality Halot-One Plus ships with everything you need to get started printing, including a set of Allen keys, plastic and metal scrapers to remove parts from the printer, a printed user guide, and a power cable, and some paper funnels for pouring resin back into the bottle from the vat. The printer itself is well-packed and protected, with a protective plastic covering over the UV-resistant lid.

Creality Halot-One Plus (Black) at Amazon for $319

Unlike with many other resin printers, including the Elegoo Mars 3, the Halot-One Plus does not include any consumables such as gloves, masks, or other cleaning supplies. This isn’t a large omission, but it means first time users will want to make sure they have all the proper supplies before they start printing.

One of the first features I noticed on the Creality Halot-One Plus was the large LCD screen. The 5-inch screen is bright, responsive, and feels like the type of capacitive screen you’d expect to see on a tablet or mobile phone. This screen is easy to read and use, and immediately sets the Halot-One Plus apart from similarly priced machines that use smaller screens. The Halot-One Plus also includes an onboard ARM Cortex-M4 quad-core 64 bit processor, which gives it more processing power than other similarly priced machines.

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The Halot-One Plus has a dark blue UV-resistant lid, something that stands out from the typical red, orange, or yellow used on similar printers. This lid is close to opaque, and I can’t easily see through it during printing. The QR code printed on the top of the lid leads to the Creality Cloud site where users can purchase models, 3D printers, consumables, as well as a social platform for sharing prints.

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

The Halot-One Plus features an integrated 100W power supply, so there’s no need for an external power brick. The build size, printer size, and other information is printed on a sticker on the back of the printer, as well as a QR code that appears to contain information specific to the printer. The base of the Halot-One Plus is heavy and dense, and feels very sturdy despite the plastic shell.

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The integrated air filtration system on the Halot-One Plus is a welcome addition and worked very well throughout our testing. The resin used in the MSLA printing process can have an odor during printing, and the integrated air filtration system significantly reduces the amount of odor from the Halot-One Plus. The air intake is located directly behind the resin vat, and runs automatically throughout the duration of printing.

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The Z axis on the Halot-One Plus uses a threaded rod with a captive nut for travel, and the dual linear rails allow for smooth and consistent movement. Most small format MSLA resin 3D printers use a single linear rail for travel, with dual rail systems being more common on larger machines like the Elegoo Saturn or the Anycubic Mono X. The build platform is suspended from a lightweight metal arm and doesn’t deflect, even when printing large and heavy parts.

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The Halot-One Plus has the Z endstop located at the top of the Z axis, an unusual design choice for an MSLA resin 3D printer. Typically, the leveling process involves dropping the platform to Z0 (the bottom of the Z axis) and ensuring the platform is planar with the LCD screen. The Halot-One Plus requires the entire platform be brought to the top of the printer to define Z0, and then lowered to the LCD screen and leveled. It’s hard to say if this is a less accurate process, but it’s definitely a more time-consuming one.

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The resin vat on the Halot-One Plus is smooth and easy to clean, with printed labels that indicate 250mL, 450mL, and 650mL fill levels. The vat also has a spout molded into the front right and back left corners, which makes pouring resin out of the vat and back into the bottle a simple and mess-free process. One of the screws that secures the vat to the frame had some flashing on the molded thumbscrew, and this meant the screw couldn’t actually fit into the mating hole without being trimmed. Not a major issue, but definitely a QC issue that should have been caught before the printer was packed and left the factory.

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The light source of the Halot-One Plus is what Creality calls the “Integral Light Source”, which is a high-powered 4,500 uw/cm2 LED array that is projected through the masking LCD via an angled mirror in the base of the printer. This light source generates a substantial amount of heat during printing, which causes the onboard fan to run continuously during printing.

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The 7.9-inch masking LCD has a resolution of 4320 x 2560, a resolution that is slightly above the typical 4K resolution (4098 x 2560) used on similar resin 3D printers like the Elegoo Mars 3. This 4K resolution translates to an XY pixel size of .04mm (40 microns), which is high enough to capture fine details and texture when printing.

Image: Creality

(Image credit: Creality)

Build Platform on Creality Halot-One Plus

The Creality Halot-One Plus uses a four bolt leveling system to ensure a planar relationship between the build platform and the masking LCD. Because the Z endstop is located at the very top of the printer, this process involves loosening the build platform connecting bolts, sending the built platform to the top of the printer to trigger the endstop, then reversing direction and sending the platform to the bottom of the Z axis. Once the platform is sitting flush on the masking LCD, the four bolts are tightened and the platform is leveled.

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The Halot-One Plus has four upward-facing bolts that secure the build platform to the gantry arm, and these bolts tend to fill with resin during printing. This is a poor design choice, as resin tends to pool inside the bolt cap heads, in the knurling, and around the bolts, which is very difficult to clean and remove. Elegoo has solved this on their Mars 2 Pro and Mars 3 printers by using a simple captive ball joint that can be leveled with only two screws. Those platforms are easy to level and clean without additional effort.

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Printing Safety with Halot-One Plus

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The Creality Halot-One Plus uses 405nm UV resin, a material that you need to handle safely when in an uncured state to avoid injury. The resin can be harmful when making contact with skin, so make sure to wear gloves when pouring, cleaning up, or handling uncured resin. I also make sure I’m wearing gloves when removing the build platform after a print, as the resin tends to pool on top of the platform and can drip off while the platform is being removed.

Make sure you use the Halot-One Plus in a well-ventilated room to minimize the danger from inhaling fumes. Any spills or uncured resin stuck to a surface should be cleaned using 99% isopropyl alcohol and the container for the resin should be kept closed and secured when not actively pouring material.

Printing the Included Test Print on the Creality Halot-One Plus

The test print included with the Creality Halot-One Plus is one of the best demonstration prints I have ever seen. The 8 hour print is titled “Kholek Suneater”, and it fills nearly the entire build area of the Halot-One Plus from corner to corner. This model comes pre-sliced using the same settings as in Halot Box (.05mm layer height, 3 second layer exposure time, 40 second base layer exposure time, etc.), and is ready to print directly from the USB thumb drive.

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

Creality has apparently identified one of the common applications of resin 3D printing (tabletop gaming and miniatures) and has embraced this by including a detailed miniature model with the Halot-One Plus. My previous experience with Creality’s test prints was poor; the Creality LD-002R (a budget MSLA resin 3D printer) included a test model that took over 19 hours to print and was not particularly impressive.

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This model has a very dense support structure, which is required to support all the various fine features including a long hammer and tail. The support structure was removed easily and left minimal marks on the printed model. Unfortunately, I broke the hammer during washing, but was able to glue it back on without much effort. The spikes on the armor, the thin tail, and the other details present on this model are sharp and in focus, and I believe that anyone who purchased this printer to make miniatures would be immediately delighted to see such a high-quality model come out of the printer without any additional preparation.

Preparing Files for Printing with Creality Halot Box

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While resin 3D printers tend to be much more mechanically simple than filament FDM 3D printers, the software typically requires more setup work and the part preparation is a very important part of the process. Creality includes a copy of Halot Box with the Creality Halot-One Plus, which is the slicer design for the Halot series of printers.

Halot Box offers two separate menus for slicing parts: Basic Options and Advanced Options. As expected, Basic Options contains parameters like layer thickness, exposure time, build platform raise height, and more which users will likely adjust the most often. These options are pre-populated with parameters that are more focused on success as opposed to speed, with a 3-second layer exposure and a 40 second initial layers exposure. Advanced Options contains more complicated parameters, such as shrinkage compensation for X, Y, and Z axes, anti-aliasing, and other parameters.

(Image credit: Creality)

Halot Box is a fully featured slicer and is capable of importing models, hollowing them for resin printing, adding support structures, and even more advanced features like adding text, slicing a model into pieces, and measuring between two points. These features make Halot Box just as feature-rich as ChituBox and Lychee slicer, both of which are also compatible with the Halot-One Plus.

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

I prepared this model of a dragon using the default Halot Box settings, including a 5mm shell after hollowing, medium support settings, and default slicer settings. Sliced with a .05mm layer height and a 3 second exposure time, this print took just over 12 hours to print out using Anycubic Water Washable Aqua Grey resin. The process of importing a model, hollowing, adding drain holes, adding support, and slicing took about 5 minutes and was intuitive and easy.

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Comparison of the Creality Halot-One Plus vs.

Elegoo Mars 3

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The 4K resolution mono LCD on the Creality Halot-One Plus makes it a natural competitor to smaller resin printers like the Elegoo Mars 3, but the larger build volume and Wi-Fi capabilities help it to edge out most competition. Instead of focusing on Z height, the Halot-One Plus has a large surface area on the build platform, providing additional space for printing multiple parts.

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Header Cell - Column 0	Creality Halot-One Plus	Elegoo Mars 3
Masking LCD Resolution	4320 x 2560	4098 x 2560
Masking LCD Size	7.9 inches	6.7 inches
XY Resolution	.04mm	.035mm
Build Dimensions	6. 77 x 4.01 x 6.29 inches	5.64 x 3.52 x 6.89 inches
	(172mm x 102mm x 160mm)	(143mm × 89mm × 175mm)
Build Volume	170.76 cubic inches	136.79 cubic inches
Printer Dimensions	9.29 x 9.57 x 16.46 inches	8.93 x 8.93 x 17.28 inches
	(23.6cm x 24.3cm x 41.8cm)	(22.7cm x 22.7cm x 43.85cm)
Printer Volume	1463 cubic inches	1378 cubic inches
Build / Footprint Ratio	11.70%	9.90%
(higher is better)
Price	$399	$299

The Halot-One Plus has a somewhat squat appearance in contrast with the taller and narrower Mars 3, and the large LCD screen on the front gives it an appearance that is closer to an appliance than a 3D printer. The build volume is somewhere between the Elegoo Mars 3 and the Elegoo Saturn, and the price also sits between the two.

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The Halot-One Plus is slightly larger in size than the Mars 3, but the differences in build volume and X/Y area are clear when comparing the two. In addition, the built-in air filtration system, large LCD, and dual Z axis linear rails give the Halot-One Plus a more industrial appearance. The front-facing USB port makes swapping out USB drives easy on both printers, but the power button on the Halot-One Plus is located on the back of the machine as opposed to the front-mounted power button on the Mars 3.

The build platform of the Halot-One Plus has a lightly textured surface, which gives printed parts a more complex surface to bond to during printing. Placing the platform of the Halot-One Plus and the Mars 3 side-by-side highlights the difference in build area, with the Halot-One Plus being a full inch longer in the X axis and just under half an inch wider in the Y axis. The difference in build area is complemented by an increase in pixel resolution, which makes the Halot-One Plus XY pixel size .04mm, a 5 micron difference from the .035mm resolution of the Mars 3.

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Printing a Large Model on Creality Halot-One Plus

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The build platform on the Creality Halot-One Plus is large enough to fit busts from Loot Studio, so I printed the bust of Korut The Mechappilian. The model prints in 5 pieces: the bust, left arm, right arm, base, and minigun. I was able to fit the bust and both arms onto a single build platform, and printed the minigun and base separately. Processing these files in Halot Box was easy, and just involved dragging the models into the window, clicking “slice”, and exporting. No additional steps were needed, and I used Anycubic Grey Craftsman Resin and the default exposure settings.

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

The first filled build platform printed flawlessly, and the level of detail was incredible. The lizard-like texture on the model looked realistic, and the smooth armor components had a consistent and even appearance. The 3-second exposure time seemed like a perfect fit for this resin as the support material snapped off easily and without leaving major pockmarks on the model.

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After washing and curing the model, the general surface quality was still very impressive. The smooth surfaces have an even appearance and there are virtually no layer lines present, owing to the .05mm layer height and the .04mm X/Y resolution. The nubs left by the support structure detach easily, and can be removed by simply running a pair of tweezers over them.

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The final assembled bust looks more like a resin collectible than a 3D print, and the general quality was as good as any resin 3D printer under $2,500 that I have used. The joints fit together with simple peg and hole locating features, and they were a perfect friction fit. You can clearly make out the lizard skin texture on the model, and the fine detailing on the armor is easy to see without magnification.

Printing Models from Creality Cloud

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Creality has implemented Creality Cloud into its Halot Box software, which allows users to download models directly from the internet into their slicer. This feature has come under scrutiny due to the widespread abuse enabled by the ability to mass upload models, regardless of their copyright or designer intent. YouTuber Bryan Vines made an excellent video discussing this topic, which shows how the platform was intended to be used versus the current usage.

For example, on the front page of the Creality Cloud, I saw the chainmail model by Agustin “Flowalistik” Arroyo. This model is currently available with a Creative Commons Attribution license, which means attribution is required when sharing the model or derivatives. The model on Creality Cloud has been uploaded by “user3265593031”, and features the picture from Printables as well as filenames with “flowalistik” in them, further proving they were uploaded by someone other than the creator.

(Image credit: Creality)

The chainmail model was easily downloaded, sliced, and sent to the printer without any additional steps required through Halot Box. While this does make searching for and downloading models a simple process, it’s troubling to see that the original creator has no effective recourse for limiting this type of piracy. In this case, I was aware of the original creator but it would be completely understandable that most users may not, and may even think the model was being provided by Creality directly.

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

The Halot-One Plus is also able to download models from Creality Cloud directly from the printer interface without using Halot Box or any other slicer software. While this is a convenient feature, it is still subject to the same issues as downloading models from Creality Cloud via Halot Box. For instance, I downloaded this Minion file from the printer interface, but have no easy way to determine who the original designer was, what copyright license they used, and their intent for the printed model. In addition, the model printed completely solid and used significantly more resin than I was expecting for such a small print.

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The Creality Halot-One Plus is a sleek, smart, and well-performing printer that worked well during our testing and left me impressed with the quality of prints made with minimal to no adjusting of the default settings when using the Halot Box slicer. The 172mm x 102mm x 160mm build volume is larger than other similarly priced printers, and the 4K resolution of the masking LCD provides sharp detail and fine features.

The Halot-One Plus sits in the awkward spot between small and large format resin 3D printers, and it’s hard to see if there is a place in the market for this machine. The large onboard LCD and built-in Wi-Fi connectivity are something you would expect on a more expensive printer like the Prusa SL1S, but are users currently looking for these features over build volume and print speed? That’s a hard question to answer, and only time will tell if the Halot-One Plus becomes a popular model.

If resolution isn’t your primary concern and you’re looking for the most build volume for your dollar, the Elegoo Saturn (on sale on Amazon for $369) and Elegoo Saturn 2 (available as a pre-order for $550) provide larger build volumes for a similar price tag. If you want to go in the other direction and find a printer with a higher resolution and aren’t worried about the price, the Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K provides an eye-watering .022mm XY resolution at an $899 price tag.

Creality Halot-One Plus: Price Comparison

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Andrew Sink first used a 3D printer in 2012, and has been enthusiastically involved in the 3D printing industry ever since. Having printed everything from a scan of his own brain to a peanut butter and jelly sandwich, he continues to dive ever more deeply into the endless applications of additive technology. He is always working on new experiments, designs, and reviews and sharing his results on Tom's Hardware, YouTube, and more.

Elegoo Saturn 3D Printer Review: Large Volume, High Quality, Great Value

Tom's Hardware Verdict

The Elegoo Saturn impressed us with its high-quality output, impressive attention to detail with regards to machine design, and large build volume.

Pros

+
+ Native integration with ChituBox slicer
+
+ Exceptionally large build-volume-to-price ratio
+
+ Rigid dual-Z linear rail system
+
+ Leveling process is simple

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The larger counterpart to the Elegoo Mars series of printers, the Elegoo Saturn is a large-volume resin MSLA 3D printer that has found a way to offer increased build volume without sacrificing part quality. By increasing both the size and the resolution of the masking Mono LCD, the Elegoo Saturn is able to offer the same XY resolution of the Mars 2 Pro while increasing the total build volume.

One of the best 3D printers, the Saturn impressed me with how easy it was to set up and use but the scarce availability of the typically $500 printer may be a source of frustration when searching for one to buy.

Elegoo Saturn Specifications

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Machine Footprint	11.02" x 9.44" x 17.55" (28cm x 24cm x 44. 6cm)
Build Volume	7.55" x 4.72" x 7.87" (192mm x 120mm x 200mm)
Resin	DLP Photopolymer Resin
UV Light	405nm UV LED Matrix
Masking LCD Resolution	3840 x 2400
Masking LCD Size	8.9-inch
Interface	3.5-inch LCD Touchscreen
XY Axis Resolution	.05mm

Included in the Box of Elegoo Saturn

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The Elegoo Saturn ships in a well-packed box and includes all of the accessories you need to start printing as soon as the printer is out of the box. Included in the accessories box is a metal scraper (for removing parts from the build platform), a plastic scraper (for removing parts from the FEP sheet and stirring the resin), some paper funnels with a wire mesh (for filtering resin), wire cutters (for removing support material), latex gloves, and a healthy number of spare bolts, Allen keys, and other easy-to-lose parts. The included USB stick comes pre-loaded with a test print, the Chitubox slicer app, a digital copy of the user manual, and a few files from the 3D model repository site MyMiniFactory.

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

Elegoo shipped this Saturn with a ‘tomshardware.com’ sticker applied to the UV-resistant lid, which was a nice touch for a review unit. As far as I can tell, this is the only difference between this unit and a typical retail unit, so my experience with this printer should be similar to yours if you purchase it directly from Elegoo.

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

The Saturn is a typical resin MSLA 3D printer which utilizes a vat of resin, a masking LCD, a UV light source, and a single axis of movement. It took me under five minutes to assemble this printer, and most of that time was removing foam and packaging from the box. The printer doesn’t require any mechanical or electrical assembly, and only needs to be calibrated before printing. The calibration process is almost effortless (more on that later), and the out-of-the-box experience felt quick and easy.

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The Saturn uses an 8.9-inch masking LCD with a resolution of 3840 x 2400, which gives it an effective XY resolution of .05mm. The masking LCD ships with a pair of protective stickers on it during shipping, and I had no problem removing them before printing. The black protective tape around the masking LCD needs to be left on the machine, and the manual makes sure to mention this first so a new user doesn’t accidentally remove it while removing the rest of the stickers.

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The resin vat on the Saturn uses four bolts that protrude from the bottom as locating posts which makes locking the vat into place a fast and repeatable process. One of the biggest problems I have when cleaning resin vats is that they typically sit with the delicate FEP film flush against the surface they are laid down on, so even a small bump in a table can possibly dent or deform them. The four posts on the corners of the Saturn’s vat keep the FEP film slightly elevated during cleaning, which is a small feature but a welcome change in design.

The resin vat also has a max fill line printed right on it which takes away the stress from potentially over-filling and spilling resin. This feature, along with the spout that is molded into the vat, indicates that Elegoo has put some thought into the needs of users who are frequently changing vats or draining and replacing resin.

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Unlike most resin MSLA 3D printers which use a single linear rail for the Z axis, the Saturn uses a threaded leadscrew and a pair of linear rails for added stability. The Saturn features a larger build volume than most MSLA 3D printers, which means more weight is suspended from the cantilevered build platform. Between these two rails and the solid machined bracket for the build platform, the Saturn is able to print without bending the build platform bracket during lift moves, and I was impressed with the rigidity of the system.

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The Saturn uses a USB stick for transferring files to the printer, as well as an Ethernet connection for adding the machine to a network. If you’re interested in using the Saturn as part of a high volume print farm, the ability to network the machine means you can transfer files without the need for an external drive. The two fans on the back of the unit provide airflow for the controller board and UV LED light source, but don’t provide air filtration like the fan in the Elegoo Mars 2 Pro. Despite the lack of air filtration, the Saturn didn’t seem to emit an odor any worse than the Mars 2 Pro during printing, but if you’re concerned about air quality you’ll want to take this into account.

Leveling the Build Platform on Elegoo Saturn

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When printing on an MSLA resin 3D printer, you want the build platform to be perfectly level with the FEP film so the resin cures evenly across each layer. This leveling process can be a challenge for beginners and it can be frustrating to have failed prints due to poor bed leveling. Elegoo has addressed this problem by using a unique leveling process that is fast, simple, and easy to complete. The Elegoo Saturn uses a build platform held rigid by two bolts and includes simple step-by-step instructions for the leveling process.

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After loosening the two bolts on the build platform and placing the included piece of leveling paper over the masking LCD, I dropped the Z axis to the home position and watched as the build platform self-leveled and sat perfectly flush. Once the axis had come to a rest, I simply tightened the two screws in the order indicated and lifted the build platform up. Compared to the leveling process on a printer like the Longer Orange 10 that uses four screws that need to be tightened in a star pattern and tend to shift during tightening, the Saturn feels almost effortless to set up.

Printing Safety with Elegoo Saturn

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The Elegoo Saturn uses 405nm UV resin, a material that you need to handle safely when in an uncured state to avoid injury. The resin can be harmful when making contact with skin, so make sure to wear gloves when pouring, cleaning up, or handling uncured resin. I also make sure I’m wearing gloves when removing the build platform after a print, as the resin tends to pool on top of the platform and can drip off while the platform is being removed.

Make sure you use the Saturn in a well-ventilated room to minimize the danger from inhaling fumes. Any spills or uncured resin stuck to a surface should be cleaned using 99% Isopropyl Alcohol and the container for the resin should be kept closed and secured when not actively pouring material.

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The build platform on the Saturn is designed with a trapezoidal shape that allows uncured resin to drip off and prevents it from pooling on the top of platform during printing. Despite this shape, I noticed that resin had a tendency to collect at the very edge of the platform, and I couldn’t help but wonder if a more aggressive angle or a chamfered edge would help to allow more resin to drip back into the vat during printing. This is a relatively minor point, as the majority of resin will drip downwards during printing and cleaning the edge of the build platform doesn’t require much effort.

Printing the Included Test Prints on the Elegoo Saturn

Most 3D printers include a prepared test print as an opportunity for the manufacturer to demonstrate the strengths of their machine. Despite this relatively simple premise, I’ve found that test prints can be a source of frustration for first time users as they have a tendency to have issues that most first-time users won’t be expecting.

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Unfortunately, the Elegoo Saturn falls short in this category and my experience with the included test print was really the only major disappointment I had while writing this review. The Saturn includes a test print on the included USB drive called “_Rook_SATURN.ctb” that consists of two chess pieces with fine details on the interior and exterior of the model. This test print completes in a very reasonable 3 hours and 49 minutes, and I was impressed with the fine detail on the models once the print had completed. Unfortunately, this is where things took a bit of a turn.

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The build platform on the Saturn has a sandblasted textured finish which helps cured resin adhere during printing and prevents parts from delaminating. When removing a part, a thin raft can be bent (as seen in the picture above), which allows the part to easily detach from the build platform without too much trouble. This is a delicate balance; too thin and the part won’t adhere to the plate, too thick and the part can’t be easily removed. I had no trouble with any of the parts I sliced in Chitubox, but as you’ll see below, the included test print was significantly more difficult to remove.

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Once printed, the detail on the rooks was impressive, but the solid base of the model printed directly on to the build plate didn’t present an intuitive method of removal. After using the included metal scraper and attempting to gently pry the parts off, I wondered if this was a common problem or if the Elegoo Water Washable Ceramic Grey resin I was using simply wasn’t compatible with the settings provided. A quick Google search for “Elegoo Saturn Test Part Stuck To Plate” shows that this is not an uncommon problem, with some users resorting to using a rubber mallet to remove the parts from the build plate.

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

I was eventually able to remove the prints from the bed, but it required significantly more effort than I was comfortable with and resulted in both parts being chipped along the bottom layer. This could have been avoided with a demo model that was suspended from a support structure or simply used a sacrificial raft during printing to prevent such a wide and thick model being printed directly on the build plate. It’s worth noting this was the only time I experienced this issue during this review. The rest of the parts I prepared using Chitubox for printing were easily removed and didn’t require excessive force to remove from the plate.

Preparing Files for Printing with Chitubox

(Image credit: Chitubox)

The Elegoo Saturn uses Chitubox for slicing, preparing, and exporting files for 3D printing. Chitubox is a feature-rich program which reduces the need for secondary programs to generate supports, hollow models, or make other changes that would typically require a longer workflow. The general process for preparing a 3D model for resin 3D printing goes like this:

Import 3D model
Angle model for printing (avoiding wide per-layer cross-sections)
Hollow model
4Add drain holes
Generate support material
Slicer
Delete islands
Export printable file

Chitubox makes this easy, as each step can be accomplished within the software without the need to export the file to various third-party softwares. Chitubox also includes a built-in profile for the Elegoo Saturn which gives good quality results without any tweaking or modifications. I’ve been a fan of Chitubox since I started using it, and the ease-of-use and native support for the Saturn makes it a logical choice.

(Image credit: Chitubox)

The profile for the Saturn that is included with Chitubox is what I would consider a good starting point for base settings. The Z resolution of .05mm is high enough to give a good quality print, but not so high as to cause an excessively long print time. The per-layer cure time of 2.5 seconds makes the Saturn a speedy printer when compared to machines with 9 second per-layer cure times like the Creality LD-002R.

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

For a first test, I used the Ancient Statue model from Loot Studios and prepared it using the default settings in Chitubox without making any modifications. For resin, I used the Elegoo Water Washable Ceramic Grey , which has worked very well for me in the past on the Elegoo Mars 2 Pro. This model used about 28 grams of resin and printed out in just under 4 hours, which seems in line with what I would expect from a Mono LCD 3D printer.

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(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

The Water Washable Ceramic Grey resin looked great after printing, and the support structure removal process is simplified by not requiring any isopropyl alcohol or other chemicals to remove the excess resin. A quick soak in a small tub of hot water dissolved the excess resin from the surface of the printer and also softened the support structure. After removing the support structure, I cured the model for a total of two minutes in 30 second increments to prevent it from warping.

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

It’s worth taking a moment to reflect on the printing process so far before we really look at this model. The steps to create this model are all simple and straight-forward, and a beginner could easily follow along to calibrate the bed, fill the resin vat, and process the file for printing. The resulting print looks sharp and detailed, and even small details like the cracks in the stone of the statue resolve and don’t require any touch-up work. Putting aside the large format nature of the Elegoo Saturn, it’s easy to understand why this machine is in such demand; it’s easy to use, gives good quality results, and the native software doesn’t require tinkering or tweaking.

Print Size Comparison of the Elegoo Mars 2 Pro vs.

Elegoo Saturn

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(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

The Elegoo Saturn shares many design similarities with the Elegoo Mars 2 Pro, so it makes sense to compare the two 3D printers directly. The Saturn uses a higher resolution masking LCD, but the increased size of the LCD means the XY resolution (pixel size) is .05mm on both machines. This means a part printed on the Mars 2 Pro and Saturn, using the same settings, will result in two parts that should be indistinguishable from one another.

Swipe to scroll horizontally

Header Cell - Column 0	Elegoo Mars 2 Pro	Elegoo Saturn
Masking LCD Resolution	1620 x 2560	3840 x 2400
XY Resolution	.05mm	.05mm
Build Dimensions	5. 08 x 3.15 x 6.3 inches	7.55 x 4.72 x 7.87 inches
Build Volume	100.81 cubic inches	280.46 cubic inches
Printer Dimensions	7.87 x 7.87 x 16.14 inches	11.02 x 9.44 x 17.55 inches
Printer Volume	999.66 cubic inches	1825.70 cubic inches
Build / Footprint Ratio (higher is better)	10.0%	15.4%

With a retail price of $500, the Saturn offers nearly 3 times the total build volume (280 cubic inches vs. 100 cubic inches) of the Mars 2 Pro, which retails for $330. If you’re interested in throughput and high-volume printing ability, the Saturn is able to produce a large batch of parts at the same resolution as Mars 2 Pro. However, if you’re looking for a higher resolution finished part and aren’t interested in a large build size, a 4K LCD printer like the Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K would be a better choice.

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(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

Printing a Large Assembly on the Elegoo Saturn

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

The large build volume and fast per-layer print time of the Elegoo Saturn make it ideal for printing models that would ordinarily be too large or time-consuming to print on a smaller MSLA resin printer like the Longer Orange 10. To test out the ability of the Saturn to print large models in multiple pieces simultaneously, I loaded up the Olympus Rider model from Loot Studios. This model of a winged Pegasus complete with rider armed with a spear prints in six individual pieces and a single large base.

(Image credit: Chitubox)

Unfortunately, the auto-placement feature in Chitubox wasn’t able to automatically place all of these parts on the build platform in order to print them in a single piece. After manually rotating the parts myself, I was able to get everything except the base of the model onto a single tray. This would be an ambitious print under the best of circumstances, as it covered a large portion of the surface area of the build platform and would create a large amount of suction when moving the platform up and down. After slicing, Chitubox generated an estimated build time of 7 hours and 10 minutes as well as a material usage of 128 ml. I wasn’t sure if the Saturn could handle a print this ambitious, but I was eager to see if this hard-to-find machine could live up to its reputation.

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(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

The Saturn printed every single part on the build platform without any defects, and I was genuinely surprised and impressed with how easily the Saturn could handle a large and complex build like this. The Elegoo Water Washable resin created a support structure that was easily removed and left minimal pockmarks on the finished model.

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

After a rinse and cure in the Elegoo Mercury Plus Cure/Wash station, I laid out the parts and assembled the model using DAP RapidFuse CA glue, a favorite of mine for making strong bonds on resin prints like this one. The final result is a finely-detailed print that measures nine inches wide and six and a half inches tall, and it is one of the largest resin MSLA prints I’ve ever made. The 3D model to 3D print process was seamless and easy, and this model earned the Saturn a permanent place on my personal list of all-time favorite 3D printers.

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(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

Printing Multiple Miniatures Simultaneously on the Elegoo Saturn

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

One of the key abilities of a large build volume resin MSLA 3D printer like the Elegoo Saturn is the ability to print multiple parts simultaneously. The Saturn is a popular printer for users interested in tabletop gaming, and the large build volume is ideal for printing out multiple miniatures in a single print. Because the print speed is dictated by the number of layers and not the number of miniatures, printing a single miniature or a full build platform full of them takes the same amount of time.

As a test of the printer’s performance, I filled the build platform with some of the enemies from the Loot Studios Ghostly Odyssey release which features a mix of detailed creatures and human 32mm miniatures.

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(Image credit: Chitubox)(Image credit: Chitubox)

After importing the models into Chitubox, I manually laid them out to prevent the support structure rafts from touching to reduce the overall total surface area of the bottom cross-section. Chitubox handled the slicing of this large tray without breaking a sweat, and I was easily able to fit a mix of models and bases for a total of 12 parts printing simultaneously. Chitubox gave an estimate of 3 hours and 51 minutes, which is an attractive print speed for such a large yield of parts.

The models have a support structure already generated, so after slicing all I had to do was detect and remove the islands (small, unconnected pixels that can cause floating bits of resin) and scroll through the layer view to check for any missing geometry. This is a quick and largely-automated process made possible by the Chitubox app, which I am grateful that Elegoo has internally decided to endorse as opposed to attempting to make their own slicer app which may lack some of this functionality.

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

As I expected, the print was completed without incident. Because of the large number of support structures, the first hour or so of the print is just hundreds of tiny cylinders (as seen in the Chitubox preview above). Every time the build platform lifted, it sounded like a Velcro strap being removed as each of the tiny support structures delaminated from the FEP sheet with a tiny pop sound. I couldn’t decide whether the sound was reassuring or not, but in the end, I’m grateful for each pop because it meant the printer was working correctly.

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

The support structures were easy to remove after a quick soak in hot water, and the models all felt like they had been cured enough to be solid. In particular, the swords and wings on the smaller models were easy to free from the support structure, and I wasn’t concerned with them breaking off or shattering during the cleaning.

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(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

Even on these 32mm miniatures, the details were crisp and features like the individual feathers on the harpy model resolved well and could be easily distinguished. If you’ve used a printer like the Anycubic Photon Mono or the Elegoo Mars Pro, this level of resolution (.05mm) is directly comparable with what you’re used to, so the big benefit of the Saturn is being able to increase your output without sacrificing quality.

The Elegoo Saturn is about as hard to find as a PlayStation 5 right now, and it tends to sell out immediately after each restock at Amazon and the Elegoo official store. After using it for this review, it’s clear to me why the printer is in such high demand: it’s fast, relatively inexpensive, and offers a build volume ideal for printing multiple parts simultaneously. The Saturn regularly sells for over $700 on second-hand sites like eBay, so finding one may prove to be a challenge for the foreseeable future.

I asked Elegoo to comment on the relative scarcity of the Saturn, and they indicated a combination of high demand and rigorous quality control were to blame for the shortages.

These two printers are too hot sale, so they always sold out. In fact, we have arranged more products for Amazon every week, but it sold out when available. In addition, our company will test the machine before selling, so it costs some time.
Elegoo

The high-yield nature of the Saturn makes it ideal for printing multiple miniatures simultaneously, so there’s no doubt this printer will be a hit among hobbyists who are interested in printing custom miniatures. The large build volume also offers the ability to print large parts in a single print, something that smaller machines like the Creality LD-002R aren’t able to accomplish.

The overall trouble-free printing experience of the Saturn makes it appealing to beginners as well as more advanced users, but the $500 retail price (if you can even find it for that) might be a little high for a first printer. If you’re interested in a lower cost alternative, the Elegoo Mars Pro or the Anycubic Photon Mono both offer a similar printing experience at a lower price point.

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

How to choose an industrial 3D printer

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Deselect

Industrial 3D printing technologies are rapidly advancing in many ways, passing critical thresholds of print quality, reliability and cost structure. Recent advances in hardware, materials, and software have made 3D printing accessible to a wider range of businesses, enabling more and more companies to use tools previously limited to a few high-tech industries.

Today, industrial 3D printers are accelerating innovation and supporting businesses across industries including engineering, manufacturing, dentistry, healthcare, education, entertainment, jewelry, and audiology.

An industrial 3D printer can revolutionize business and reduce production costs and lead times.

Industrial 3D printing processes

The most commonly used 3D printing technologies are Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM), Stereolithography (SLA), Selective Laser Sintering (SLS), PolyJet and Direct Metal Laser Sintering (DMLS).

FDM (Fused Depsition Modeling)

FDM 3D printing is one of the oldest and most widely used additive manufacturing techniques in the world. It consists of applying subsequent layers of molten material and allowing adjacent layers to cool and merge with each other before applying the next layer.

FDM technology can be described as the reverse process of CNC numerical cutting. 3D models are converted into g-codes, which are sets of instructions. They serve to position the drivers and thus to precisely extrude in order to create another layer. The technology basically uses the exact amount of material needed for a particular part, as opposed to CNC methods that result in a lot of wastage of the material we use.

The resolution of a high prototype is affected by many factors such as driver positioning accuracy, user calibration, or the quality of the material used in FDM 3D printing. Typically, the FDM print tolerance is 0.15mm to 0.25mm.

The biggest benefit of FDM is the quick adjustment of the infill of 3D printed models. This means it's very easy to print a prototype just to check setup and finish. With little internal filling or even a hollow core, we save on material costs. Upon completion of the design phase, we can carry out a final inspection or start a small or medium production series with the final filling of the appropriate 3D printing.

SLS (Selective Laser Sintering)

SLS technology - selective laser sintering - consists in fusing polyamide particles using a high-energy laser beam. The process begins by filling the chamber with powdered material. As the print progresses, the build surface lowers and another layer of powder is added. Polyamide powder is sintered carefully, layer by layer. The solution allows the production of geometrically complex elements with high dimensional accuracy compared to other 3D printing methods.

SLS is particularly interesting in terms of the use of materials that are widely used in the plastics industry, including polyamides.

SLS printers use a powerful laser to melt fine polymer powder particles. The unmelted powder supports the part during printing and eliminates the need for special support structures, making SLS a particularly effective choice for complex mechanical parts.

The ability to produce parts with superior mechanical properties makes SLS the most common polymer additive manufacturing technology for industrial applications.

SLA (Stereolithography)

SLA (Stereolithography) is a 3D printing technology using liquid photopolymer resin. In this technology, the model material is cured with a UV laser beam to achieve the final geometry. The material required for SLA printing - liquid resin - is stored in a tank, into which the working platform is gradually immersed, and then locally illuminated (at the places where the corresponding model is created) with a UV laser. The resin curing by illumination is repeated until the part is ready and the latter is rinsed with isopropyl alcohol to remove any polymer that has not cured. After cleaning, the printout is placed in a special lighting fixture, where the resin models acquire their final properties.

Stereolithography is one of the most precise 3D printing technologies in the world. This allows you to recreate even the smallest details on printed models. SLA printout accuracy is 0.1mm to 0.2mm.

SLA parts have the highest resolution and precision, the sharpest detail and the smoothest surface of any plastic 3D printing technology. The main advantage of SLA is its versatility. SLA resin formulations offer a wide range of optical, mechanical and thermal properties that match those of standard, engineering and industrial thermoplastics.

SLA is an excellent choice for highly detailed prototypes requiring tight tolerances and smooth surfaces, as well as shapes, tools, templates, medical models and functional parts. It also offers the highest heat rejection temperature of 238 degrees Celsius, making it an ideal choice for certain engineering and manufacturing applications, as well as the widest selection of biocompatible dental and medical materials.

DMLS (Direct metal laser sintering)

DMLS is one of the most advanced technologies. 3D printing uses a powerful laser to fuse metals and alloys at the microscale. The main application of DMLS is the creation of metal parts of complex geometry. Immediately after the 3D printing process, the parts are fully functional (heat resistant, strong and durable). In fact, parts are even better than cast parts in terms of density, which is reflected in their mechanical properties.

Direct metal laser sintering is very advantageous compared to traditional production methods, as even the most complex elements can be produced in a single production run, which means lower production costs. DMLS technology, combined with topological analysis, makes it possible to produce parts that are lighter than those obtained by traditional manufacturing methods.

DMLS metal parts are exceptionally strong and have a very high weight-to-strength ratio. High resistance materials such as 316 L tool steel, aluminum alloy, titanium, or inconel (an alloy of nickel and chromium) are commonly used.

PolyJet

PolyJet 3D technology is one of the most precise 3D printing technologies in the world. The principle of operation is close to SLA technology, as it is based on the curing of liquid resin. However, in this case, photopolymer resins are cured with UV lamps. The thickness of a single layer printed using this technology is only 0.016mm (smaller than the thickness of a human hair). Technology accuracy less than 0.099 mm cannot be achieved by other additive technologies.

PolyJet technology will prove to be suitable for the manufacture of precision elements where high precision is required, thanks to the use of resins with different properties, especially mechanical ones, and a soluble base material. It is designed for rapid prototyping and high quality final prototypes with a smooth surface.

The use of industrial 3D printers

The number of industries using 3D printing to improve the efficiency of production and workflow is steadily growing. This technology is widely used in the jewelry industry, in dental laboratories for the manufacture of crowns, bridges and implants, as well as in the production of hearing aids and prostheses that are ideal for patients.

The first commercial 3D printing technology was invented in 1984 by Charles Hull. Nearly 30 years have passed and the 3D printing industry has rapidly evolved from stereolithography to bioprinting.

Medicine is perhaps the most interesting area of application. 3D printing in this industry is used in a wide range of applications - from the production of prostheses and hearing aids to the bioprinting of body parts. Breakthroughs in this area are happening quickly and spectacularly.

In architecture and construction, 3D printing is used to create detailed models of buildings. In the past, architects only relied on CAD software to design structures. With 3D printing, you can now convert CAD files to 3D printable files. Thus, architects and engineers can easily modify 3D structures and test different market opportunities with a faster, more affordable prototype. Some of the benefits of 3D printing in architecture and construction include the reduction of material waste and the invention of innovative shapes and structures.

3D printing is used to produce complex parts for the electronics, automotive and aerospace industries. Automotive giants such as GM, Jaguar Land Rover, and Audi have been using this technology for quite a while now to produce auto parts. Leading aircraft manufacturers such as Airbus and Boeing are using this technology to improve performance, reduce maintenance and fuel costs. Boeing used this technology to create environmental control ducting (ECD) for the 787 aircraft. The production and assembly of the ECD is quite complex, as it consists of about 20 different parts, which can now be 3D printed as a single unit. 3D printing aircraft components that are 65% lighter but just as strong as traditional parts saves a lot of money and also reduces carbon emissions. The sums that aircraft manufacturers save are huge. The aviation industry is poised to 3D print an entire aircraft by 2050.

Even NASA is more than willing to use this technology in their space missions. NASA engineers 3D print parts for a space launch system. NASA recently sent a robot to Mars that has almost 70 custom 3D printed parts. Scientists are also exploring the possibility of using this technology on the International Space Station to manufacture spare parts on site.

The possibilities of 3D printing are endless. Because the target market is very huge and competition is minimal, these applications will inevitably grow rapidly and displace traditional 3D printing engineering applications.

The latest generation of industrial 3D printers has made prototyping and final parts faster and more affordable, opening the door for virtually every company to use 3D printing to improve product development and manufacturing.

See also: What to consider when choosing a 3D scanner

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Miracle photopolymer 3D printer CREALITY HALOT-SKY / Sudo Null IT News

Hamsters welcome you friends!

Today's post will be about printing on Creality Halot-Sky photopolymer 3D printer. In the course of the post, let's look at what it is capable of, what a liquid photopolymer is and what additional equipment you need to have. As befits traditions, let's go beyond the usual life and try to print models from burnt jewelry photopolymers. We will also find out what problems there may be with them and how the manufacturer can react to this.

The device consists of a printer body and an orange flip cover that protects the photosensitive polymer resin from UV rays. The clamshell design saves space and visualizes the printing process through transparent windows. From additional inventory there is an instruction, brushes for windows, a spatula for repairing an apartment and every little thing. What is missing in this kit is a jar of photopolymer, I had to buy it separately. Also included is a 16 GB flash drive where you can store your photos, movies and of course files for printing.

Looking ahead, I will say that the printer only accepts the CXDLP format, specially developed for this by a group of engineers, with the aim of sabotage. We will return to this point.

Instructions here in all understandable Chinese-English. Usually I collect such waste paper by the summer, as the barbecue season is coming soon. Now we are interested in the illustration of how to attach the orange cover. To do this, we find the right tool in the kit and remember in which direction the screws are twisted. Four of them need to be screwed in, and on this the printer assembly can be considered complete. As they say, a minute ago I took out the device from the box.

Table calibration is performed once and does not require any further action. To do this, loosen the four screws that secure the platform. This is important, otherwise push the matrix! In the menu we find the axis calibration button Z , press it and put the calibration cardboard directly on the printer matrix. The lead screw will raise the table to the very top to the optical limit switch, and then lower it to the very bottom so that the platform rests under its own weight on the calibration cardboard. At this stage, you need to tighten the four screws and that's it, the device is ready to print!

Brief printer specifications. The model is equipped with an 8.9-inch 4K monochrome screen with a resolution of 3840x2400 pixels and a print build area of 192 * 120 * 200 mm, which allows you to create products of large sizes and incredibly high detail. Also, accuracy is achieved thanks to two massive axis guides Z along which the table moves, which allows you to print models with a layer thickness of up to 10 microns. An interesting feature of the model is a proprietary 120 W light source, which can significantly speed up printing time.

Creality says it has created a new ILS illumination system for the Halot-Sky printer. Its essence lies in the fact that LEDs with a wavelength of 405 nm shine on a mirror that reflects ultraviolet onto a monochrome screen, thereby creating a denser and more uniform light flux with a uniformity of 90%, which has a positive effect on printing. What about the reliability of such illumination? It needs to be improved! One of the four mounts fixing the mirror on the frame turned out to be broken, therefore, during the printing process, the glass resonated in time with the stepper motor and this showed an artifact on the model, resembling parasitic light. Fixed the problem with a soldering iron.

It is advisable to update the firmware before using the printer. To do this, go to the Creality website and in the Resin Series section we find the item Halot Os. At the time of shooting, the latest firmware is available for January 21, 2022. Download it to a PC, and then transfer it to the USB flash drive that comes with the kit. We insert it into the printer and in the System settings section we see the Local upgrade item, click it, and then the OK button. After these actions, the Pokémon will dance on the color touch screen. Next, the printer will prompt you to select the language, Wi-Fi network and other pluses.

Also, through the Creality Cloud mobile application, you can watch the printing process or, for example, press the pause button to view the model, and perhaps that's it. It is impossible to send a model for printing from the phone, since the application does not have a normal slicer for its own line of polymer printers (I think this is temporary). Although, to be honest, all the people I know in the field of polymer printing work only with flash drives. Understood the technical part.

Let's take a look at the additional equipment that is needed to work with photopolymer resin. Perhaps the first and most necessary is an ultrasonic bath!

If anyone asks where you can buy one, I answer - nowhere! This is our own development, which has no analogues today. The emitter power here is 100 W, there is a power adjustment, a timer, heating, a liquid degassing function, touch controls and much more. And I don’t need to write about Chinese anal-ogs, they didn’t even stand next to me.

What is this sink for? After printing, liquid polymer resin remains in the pores of the model. If the part is complex, it is quite difficult to remove it with a regular brush, and excess resin can harden over time and ruin the thin elements of the product. The ultrasonic bath eliminates possible defects associated with poor washing. Isopropyl alcohol is used as a flushing fluid. Ethyl is a pity to use, it is better to drink it.

We also need a block of toilet paper, different types of photopolymer resins, brushes, filters, nail files and UV lamps. The paper must be Obukhov, of the highest quality. And then suddenly during the press twist the stomach ...

After printing and washing, the model must be cured under UV light. For this, a turntable was made based on a motor from a microwave oven and LED lamps from protective glasses for a phone. The luminous flux must uniformly illuminate the model from all sides, otherwise it may be deformed due to uneven shrinkage of the polymer. You can assemble such a device in a couple of minutes, as you can see from the design, nothing complicated. A simpler solution that does not require any investment is ordinary sunlight.

Before starting work, it is necessary to level the table on which the printer will be located. Axis table Z must be evenly immersed in the resin, especially when there is little liquid in the tank, which can lead to rejects due to uneven distribution of liquid in the container.

First acquaintance with printing. At about the same time as the printer arrived, ROYAL RESIN burnout photopolymer was ordered. This little 500 gram jar costs 170 bucks. Expensive, of course, but taking the last coins out of my pocket, I took them to study new 3D printing technologies. In the future, we will pour silver in the end! With my head held high, I tear off the protective film from the bottle and effectively fill the tank of the new printer. Everything would have been fine if not for my luck. In general, you can make a separate issue on this topic, for which you don’t take it, something always goes wrong.

Resin has slightly delaminated after half a year in the cabinet, but this is normal. It is recommended to shake the polymer before use. In the process of pouring this swamp back into the jar on Teflon FEP film, some particles of dirt caught my eye. They were quite hard to the touch, like salt or sugar. Curious...

A detailed examination of the contents of the filter showed that there are foreign inclusions in the resin. After washing them in alcohol and analyzing the appearance, it turned out that the resin began to crystallize during the six-month exposure. Some crystals had a pronounced hexagonal shape like a snowflake during its formation. The substance tastes tasteless, the gums do not go numb from it. In general, if you put the model on print with such a resin, the table axis Z will push through the Teflon film with sharp crystals and the expensive polymer will run away, while the printer matrix will most likely crack and fail.

Having written about this problem to the manufacturer, they shrugged their shoulders and said that they saw this for the first time, they say send it to the bank - we will study it. I immediately refused the proposed option to replace the polymer with another and asked for a refund. And then the circus began. As it should be for any serious company, no one will write to you first, everyone is very busy there. When asked how things are going there, the manager said that less than half of the photopolymer in the received bank was left and the money would be returned for the weight that was left. I was surprised because I transferred resins from the strength of 30 grams. Then, after a couple of hours of calm, a message came that they would return the full amount. And what do you think, such breakfasts lasted three long days until I bothered them with calls. With all this, the feeling did not leave me, as if I had been done some kind of favor. Well, nothing, but now I have magic crystals...

Next I used Anycubic resin in Skin color. This jar is already three years old. During downtime, of course, it exfoliated and before using it, you must definitely shake it up and let it stand for a couple of hours so that all the bubbles come out. Otherwise, you can get soda. So that the resin does not deteriorate from light in between printing, the container is covered with a black lid that comes with the printer.

How to determine the required exposure time for polymer resin. This technique is universal and is suitable for each model of photopolymer printer. There is a calibration matrix for this. Suppose we need a layer height of 50 microns. In the printer settings, set the exposure time for the first couple of layers, for example, 40 seconds, and for the next and most important ones, 2 seconds each. The matrix is thin and it prints in minutes. Next, we wash the calibration square in an ultrasonic bath and see what happened there. I say right away that guessing the exposure time the first time will not work. For each type of resin, even the same manufacturer, it will be different. Therefore, experimentally, we play with the settings until we achieve the best print result. For Anycubic resin in Skin color, the exposure time of the 50 micron layer was 2 seconds, but for the gray resin, the optimal time was 1.7 seconds.

It is important to sign the parameters on the matrix, because it is such a short memory. With a detailed increase, the difference in layer thickness is clearly visible. It all depends on what detail of the final product we need. Naturally, the smaller the layer, the longer the printing time will be.

Details to pay attention to. The first is the convergence of the photopolymer mass in the center of the bulge and bulge in the figure in the form of an infinity sign. This is a complex form, and here it is extremely clear where the underlight is, and where the overexposure is. We also look at the ruler, very thin grooves the size of a needle tip will be slightly overexposed - this is normal. The baffles come out pixel-sized, which defaults to 50 micron XY-axis. I must say right away that this is an ideal example from which to take an example.

A separate Halot Box slicer has been developed specifically for this printer. It is as simple as the corner of a house with complex polygonal masonry of the ancient Incas. With simple models, the program works like clockwork. For example, this is a keychain in the form of a radiation sign, downloaded from the Thingiverse resource. In the program, in the print section, click the slicing button. The model will be cut into layers and the file can be saved to a USB flash drive.

As mentioned earlier, the printing time depends on the thickness of the layer of axis Z . For 50 microns it will be 16 minutes. For another similar model with only a 10 micron layer, the time will increase to 1 hour 11 minutes. Keychain height 3.5 mm. Now you can turn on the mathematics and carry out complex arithmetic calculations for the print time of a layer, for example, 1 cm. Click on the start button and watch the process.

Polymer resin is inherently a very tricky thing. Its polymerization occurs to a greater extent from a wavelength close to 400 nm. The CONVOY flashlight has a wavelength of 365 nm and is designed to check banknotes and search for traces of crimes in the toilet. If radiation is directed at a photopolymer, it will become very hot during polymerization. The same thing happens during the printing process. The maximum temperature that we managed to fix during illumination is 60 degrees. The tricky properties of the resin are that the top layer that has been irradiated instantly blocks ultraviolet light and prevents the lower layers from hardening. Takes all the brunt, so to speak.

In the meantime, we observe the printing process. Since the polymer, according to some, is extremely toxic, we work in the mask that comes with the kit. It protects the resin from the snot that flows during a cold. Contact with the slurry on the skin is undesirable, it can be absorbed and lead to the most unpredictable consequences.

Printing has ended. Using a spatula, tear the model off the table and wash it in isopropyl alcohol. For such simple products, an ultrasonic bath is not needed. The quality of the model is at the highest level. Those who took this keychain in their hands could not believe that it was printed at home using modern technologies. Other than that, you can see for yourself. We carry out the procedure of ultraviolet irradiation to finally fix the resin.

A little about photopolymer adhesion. The problem with my old Anycubic Photon printer was that its models often came off the table, which in turn led to printing defects. Creality has no problem with this. Models with a large contact area completely refuse to come off. The printer comes with a metal spatula, after unpacking it must be sharpened immediately. Otherwise, it will be difficult to pick out the model.

When printing another test model from slurry, a marriage was born. When the spacecraft tried to take off, its fragments flew in all directions, some of which landed in tar. Such meteorites in the volume of slurry are unacceptable. In addition to the fact that you can spoil the model, you can also push the matrix. The mood will be spoiled, and printer maintenance will cost a pretty penny. Therefore, we are not lazy and periodically filter the resin, especially since there are enough filters for the kit.

The second way to clean foreign objects is through the Cleaning button. It simply lights up the screen and irradiates the entire bottom layer of the photopolymer. When printing calibration matrices, thin partitions located on it can come off and cover the entire Teflon film with bottom sediments. With a spatula, such a hair will not be scraped off. Therefore, we press the Cleaning button for 5-10 seconds, and then remove a thin film from the bottom of the bath.

Visual depilation session. This is how much garbage came out in the process of printing calibration matrices. If you do not carry out such procedures, then the master of iodine will be dissatisfied because he will grow a beard. In general, we are not lazy and filter the resin in time, and also clean the surface of the FEP film from time to time.

A little about the axle table Z . It is aluminum with a thin layer of anodizing for good adhesion. There is no need to be zealous with an iron spatula. One day, Master Yoda firmly entrenched himself in his positions and did not want to come off. I had to knock him out by force. Both metal and plastic flew to the sides. As a result, the appearance of the table has forever lost its original appearance. In order to separate the result of many hours of cultivation without consequences, I recommend removing the table from the printer and carefully peeling off all this beauty.

Halot Box software. This is a primitive slicing in which you can set the layer thickness starting from 10 microns, create hollow models and generate supports. The software is pretty fast. Supports for those who are faced with this type of printing for the first time are needed so that individual fragments of the model do not begin to grow in the air. Otherwise, the fingers will remain in the resin due to the small area of contact with the table.

Supports are placed on all protruding elements. Here we are not in a hurry and carefully study the layers of the model from all possible angles, the polymer resin is quite expensive, and screwing up the print is easy. I do not recommend automatic generation of supports to anyone, only manual. From practice, the machine does not understand where and which node of the model needs to be strengthened. All this comes with experience, even in the manual version it is impossible to foresee all the subtleties, because the starship at the stern began to exfoliate like an open book in the wind.

For hollow models, a drain hole is required to drain the resin, a function in the program is called Drill. If you do not make a hole, the resin will be sealed inside the product. In this case, we take out a drill and perform drilling work, and then drain.

Now about Satan. I don't understand how this software got into the outside world. He constantly flew out and sometimes had to repeat the same procedure several times. This applies to both younger versions and older ones. Technical support said that my Windows is outdated, let's put the top ten. Installed and saw the same thing. After a while, I updated my computer and already on Ryzen 9everything worked.

Third-party programs like Lychee Slicer seem to be advanced, but the i5 computer constantly sent me to hell. The layer height could also not be set below 50 microns. CHITUBOX turned out to be perhaps the best slicing program that doesn't freeze your computer, but it doesn't have support for the Halot SKY printer.

As a result, I had to use my own slicer. By trial and error we create a model of the green master and upload it to a USB flash drive. We insert the flash drive into the printer and start printing.

Forming supports with a native slicer does not require working with wire cutters and other household tools. They break wonderfully by hand. What is called finalize then only with a file. This is the best scenario that can exist in this case. In the Lychee Slicer, the supports came off with the giblets of the model, and now it is impossible to restore the surface. In general, we pour more isopropanol into a jar and perform water procedures on it.

During filming, a stray light appeared on the sleeve, it was necessary to depressurize the light dome and shoot the material in the rays of lighting equipment. Polymer printing requires as little outside intervention as possible. This sample was a mystery at one time, since the printing of the model was carried out at night under the sweet snoring of the neighbors behind the wall. Nothing could contribute to the formation of lines during the printing process. But as it was said at the beginning of the film, the mount on the mirror reflecting the flow of light, which resonated in time with the stepper motor, is to blame.

You can shoot a separate film for defects in photopolymer printing, since anything can affect the final result. I even had to carry out a whole research work with the study of the influence of external factors. It consisted in the fact that at a certain time a light source with different wavelengths, a fan or a vibration motor was turned on or off, which creates seismic external vibrations on the table. Each of the above equipment in one way or another led to the formation of lines on the models.

In practice, it turned out that sunlight has a positive effect on tanning and negatively on the condition of the resin. If you print for several days in a row in clear weather, then the photopolymer becomes polemical, no matter how you look at it, and no UV protective cap can save you from this. Therefore, all further work was carried out surrounded by garden structures in the form of what was at hand. Less light - more benefit.

Processing models after printing. After removing all support on many elements, traces remain in the form of acne. They are removed with a nail file and other abrasive accessories with different grain sizes to a satisfying final result. If the support is torn out with giblets for one reason or another, you can restore the crater using the same resin, fill the hole with it and fix it with an ultraviolet flashlight. Next comes the machining. At the stage of post-processing of the model, there is no need to rush.

I guess many of you have watched The Mandalorian and the Boba Fett book. There was a small iodine, and so, he pissed me off. The model looks simple, but printing it turned out to be another task. At the beginning, it partially broke away from the supports. In the program, as usual, I forgot to set the hollowness and as a result, 200 grams of polymer went to the wind. Then Grog's hands came off due to the insufficient thickness of the supports. Marriage was just the sea. Fortunately, an experiment is an experiment, it allows us to understand the principles and laws of the world around us.

The model turned out to be difficult in terms of hanging elements both inside and outside, which required internal filling with supports. Halot Box does not have such a function, but Lychee Slicer has, among other things, the ability to hang the computer. On understanding the orientation of an object in space when printing in a canopy with all of the above, a whole carriage of defects has accumulated. Expensive polymer is certainly a pity, but experience has never been given at a simple price. As a result, this baby was born.

Comparison of the print quality of jewelry with different layer heights and different photopolymers. Let's look through a microscope at the relief of the ring with the image of George the Victorious planting a snake on a bottle. Here we see three layer heights, 10, 30 and 50 microns. The lower the height, the higher the quality, the longer the print time. When magnified, it is clearly seen how the steps on the spherical element disappear. At 10 microns, the transitions are almost invisible, they seem to have merged and formed a smooth single surface. From this it is clear that when printing such models it is better to sacrifice time to increase the maximum detail.

Growing jewelry from liquid turned out to be an interesting activity, as each seal was subjected to many hours of study of various surface details. Sometimes the result looked quite predictable, and sometimes it was a stupor, especially if you set the light correctly and look at one point.

Now about the gray photopolymer from Anycubic. I don’t know how things are with those who constantly print to them, but I have vague doubts about its quality. At the beginning, I assumed that the bank was overdue here. But no, fresh until 2023. Then he suggested that the whole point was a violation of the technology for fixing the resin with ultraviolet light. All of the gray polymer products from Anycubic had an enormous amount of shrinkage. I had to print another model to evenly illuminate it with ultraviolet light, but fortunately this was not necessary. Having taken the ring straight from the printer, it turned out to be much smaller than those rings that were printed with another photopolymer. That's it.

And finally, a little about the burned-out photopolymer resin Gorky Liqid Castable LCD. Some probably think what does burnt mean? This means that at a certain temperature it literally burns out. In this case, the product evaporates without a trace and leaves no residue behind. While I was filming the material, I did not notice how the burning polymer dripped onto the window sill and burned through the coating. Damn it, my wife will kill me)

Until she sees we continue fire hazardous work with ordinary resin, let's see what remains after it. You can clearly see how much soot is formed during the combustion of a conventional photopolymer; this option is not suitable for jewelry. Who is not in the subject, there the printed model is poured with molding mass, then the flask goes through a many-hour cycle of calcining and burning out the resin, and then liquid metal is poured into the formed cavity. It turns out a complete copy of the object from resin in metal. If the model burns out and leaves traces behind, you can forget about metal casting.

The color of the photopolymer in the line of this manufacturer is one - transparent yellow. The price is two and a half times cheaper than the green swamp shown at the beginning of the post. As for the print settings. The first attempts to grow something were carried out on the standard settings of the previous resin with an exposure time of 2 seconds. But nothing good came of it. I had to experiment with matrices. They print quickly and immediately give an idea which control buttons to press on the printer. In general, you need to shine this resin for a long time, 10 seconds for a 50 micron layer and 6.5 seconds for a 10/30 micron layer. By the way, more than 10 seconds of exposure on the printer can not be set, the limit.

For reference. During this post, a lot of both necessary and unnecessary items in everyday life were printed. The field for creativity here has no boundaries, especially if you know how to model on a computer.

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