Arduino nano case 3d print
Free STL file Arduino Nano Case・3D print design to download・Cults
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Gone・Cults
Skip to contentBut don’t panic!
Yes, this design is gone, it’s sad… but you can always check out the designer DaveCG profile who made this model or even send them a direct message.
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Free STL file Enclosure for Arduino Nano Every (Mod)・3D printing plan for download・Cults
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Do you want to support Cults?
Do you like Cults and want to help us continue our journey on our own ? Please note that we are is a small team of 3 people, so supporting us in maintaining activities and creating future developments is very easy. Here are 4 solutions available to everyone:
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AD: Disable your AdBlock banner blocker and click on our banner ads.
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DONATIONS: If you want, you can donate via PayPal here.
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* INVITE FRIENDS: * Invite your friends, discover the platform and great 3D files shared by the community!
We print the simplest case for a homemade device But in practice, everything turns out to be not as simple as in an advertisement for a 3D printer, and under the cut, I will tell you in more detail what conclusions I came to in trying to compose a convenient case design. nine0006
Everything is fine with 3D printing - it's just a magic wand for the craftsman, except that most will only be able to afford models of printers in the lower price range. And after taking possession of a 3D printer, most, like me, will face the imperfection of budget 3D printing technology, namely FDM technology (layer-by-layer deposition - uses most of the available printers), regardless of whether you assembled the printer yourself or bought it in a store. The main problems are the shrinkage of the material after cooling, which causes deformations and inaccurate linear dimensions of the printed parts. If you came up with some cool design in the likeness of mass-produced cases, then the case of your device will be generously saturated with neat bevels, holes or snaps exactly in size for ease of assembly ... even being a professional in modeling and taking into account the problems listed above when printing, you will get tired of mixing all these sizes and think in what position it is better to print each detail so that nothing bends during shrinkage, as is often the case. Shrinkage is evil, especially frustrating and time-consuming when your design has many dimensions that need to be accurately maintained for assembly and a beautiful look. But not everything is so bad and this is not a reason to retreat). nine0006
Based on my experience with printing, I came up with a simple design for a device prototype box that will be easy to print on any fdm printer and suitable for many projects.
The design consists of two parts: the chassis - on which we will mount the parts, and the casing itself - which will hide all the shame that we soldered) One is easily inserted into the other and, for reliability, is fixed with a single screw at the back of the case.
The chassis is printed in a horizontal position to easily accommodate horizontal component mounting locations. Then I just glue them in the corners with droplets of hot glue, it's faster and easier to disassemble them later if necessary. nine0006
Chassis I recommend to generously pierce the bottom and sides to save material, less deformation during shrinkage and easier peeling off the table. I just extrude circles, do you remember what bubbling is?)
And I print the casing vertically. In this position, you can make thin even walls and the texture on almost the entire visible part of the body is obtained in one direction, it looks neat. If necessary, you can finish the mounting ears or legs.
Even if you can't exactly maintain the size the first time and you have to grind off the edges of the chassis a little with a file, there will be absolutely no traces of processing from the outside of the device.
The tapered feet on the bottom of the body are printed without supports, eliminating post-processing and saving material/time.
If you print on adhesive tape or glue, the surface that sticks to the table is usually uneven and needs to be processed. With this approach, it will be on the back side of the case (on the side of the interface connectors), which no one usually sees. nine0006
I printed this case from PLA plastic with a 0.3mm nozzle on a Russian-made MZ3D-256 printer with the following structure settings: wall thickness 0.6mm, infill 23%, without printing a substrate.
The size of the case in my example allows you to place inside an arduino uno, a pair of relays, a stepper motor driver, a voltage converter, various communication connectors and control / indication elements.