3D print fleshlight
▷ adult fleshlight 3d models 【 STLFinder 】
Dryer for fleshlight sleeves, using this blower fan: https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-MULTIFAN-Control-Receiver/dp/B012CL2V3I The cradle opening is narrower than a fleshlight sleeve to keep it opened. ...This allows the blower to dry the sleeve...
A replacement case for fleshlights. Use a 61.5mm id, 5.5mm high * 5mm wide cross section rubber seal on the bottom. ... you can probably find a close enough fit on McMasterCarr if you have access to it, or you can print the 'cap no seal' version of the. ..
decided to finally post these after seeing knifebro69's video on 3D printed accessories for fleshlights (youtu.be/8z360aX_dTs) there's two versions in here, the normal version which I made about four years ago, and V2 which I made not too long ago...
Fleshlight Girl Seal (Vaccummmm)
Fleshlight girl seal gasket for mor vaccum. ...No more to say
Fleshlight Flight Launch Adapter
Fleshlight Flight Launch Adapter
The Handy Fleshlight Mount
The original version was bolted together and therefore changing the Fleshlight was a challenge. This new one uses a 3D printed clamp to hold the orignal Fleshlight on the handy via friction. ...Now it can be mounted and demounted way faster and easier.
Fleshlight to GoPro Converter
Designed to mount a Fleshlight on any GoPro Mount. The mounting hole is 5,5 mm so should fit any GoPro mount. ...
120mm Fan Fleshlight Drier
Rapidly dry your Fleshlight! Want to ensure the cleanliness and long life of your Fleshlight, but don't want to leave it sitting out to dry for hours? Well, now you can dry it in a matter of ~30 minutes rather than hours. This design fits a common...
Fleshlight Fan Dryer
Made a remix for a 60mm fan i have on hand, you can use as base my other remix, to dry your fleshlight verticaly https://www. thingiverse.com/thing:4949598
Fleshlight mount for Handy
... experimental product! 3D prints have different quality and it might break during use. Sweet tech AS, the company behind Handy, does not take responsibility for damage to you or your machine if you choose to use the 3D printed Fleshlight mount. ...
Fleshlight Mold Maker
The third part makes the "core" of the fleshlight. Basically, the core just dictates the feel of the insides. I currently uploaded two cores to choose from with more on the way in the future. ... I'm borrowing designs for the cores btw so I can't. ..
fleshlight sleeve stand-in
The ring that hold the sleeve to the case was measured from the case (easier to measure a hard plastic case than a wobbly fleshlight) , and have a tiny amount of clearance added so that the tolerance checker in SolidWorks doesn't cry when you run...
Fleshlight drying holder
Fleshlight drying holder. I bought some half inch round and square dowel from home depot and built that rail, and my holders will clamp right on to it. The square dowel measure 19mm across, so the opening of my design is 19mm. I also tried smooth. ..
This is a sleeve toy (onahole, fleshlight) of a catgirl in tiger lingerie. 2022 is the year of the tiger. I ad an AirVent version. If you spin the vent you can change the suction and resistance. The T-Shell is best printed in TPU or other...
Fleshlight Hang-Dry Rack
This is a drying hanger for the regular size fleshlight sleeves. Insert the sleeve into the main loop and clip the hanger-hook over a clothes rail. Can also be used to hang inside a t-shirt if more discretion is required. I have included. ..
Fleshlight Cap Ring
Ring that goes around the larger end of a fleshlight case that can be used for making caps and mods. Includes the small pieces that I used as negatives to make the recesses that lock it into place. I modeled it backwards by accident, so it's left...
Fleshlight Vesa Mounting
The air slot bar allows you to remove the bottom lid from your Fleshlight (that allows airflow / less suction) and remove the air slot bar from the Vesa mount to allow the suction free effect. This could be adjusted with the bottom lid of the...
This is a sleeve toy (onahole, fleshlight) of Setsuna from Redo of healer. You need to print both shells and the core, fit them together and seal the mold. I use hot glue, but there are better ways. Fill the mold with low tensile Silicone like...
Customized version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:834725 Created with Customizer! ...https://www.thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=834725
Adult fun sign ;)
adult toys scale to the right size.
Fleshlight (flapjack) to 8mm Adapter
Not much to say . ... fleshlight on one side 8mm screw on the other
A Oblex Adult. ... You can support me on https://www.patreon.com/Schlossbauer if you like my work.
selection of adult toys, scale to desired size. ...Leave a comment and be sure to post makes!
Adapter FleshLight GO for Launch
An adapter ring to use your FleshLight GO with The FleshLight Launch. There are 2 versions: - the AdaptorRing4Launch4 fits the cap of the larger FleshLight (thus not from the Go). ... - the V2 version uses larger cams to lock into the Launch.
An adult sized spinner that uses 12x2p (GBP) pieces as the weights. Using a decent 608 bearing you can spin for around 4 minutes. ...Print 2x comfy_cap.stl for the bearing.
A Oblex Adult. You can support me on https://www.patreon.com/Schlossbauer if you like my work. Category: Toys & Games
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my story / 3D printers, machine tools and accessories / iXBT Live
My computer case has only two HDD/SSD slots. I have four disks. Three SSD disks I was able to place it quite easily in a basket for one 3.5 HDD, using parts printed on a 3D printer. Below I will tell you what I did. I understand that this article will be interesting not to everyone, but I decided to share this life hack, so to speak, and at the same time show What are the benefits of a 3D printer in everyday life?
Recently, my computer is housed in a Hiper HG302 Shadow case, here I talked about it: Moving to a new computer case using the Hiper HG302 Shadow as an example.
And everything would be fine, but two slots for installing SSD / HDD is real few. I have 4 SSDs in my system and the fifth one lies, although they are small in volume, but how they say there is never too much space.
In the case review, I talked about how I was able to install three SSDs. to me I needed a special bar, on which I screwed two SSDs on both sides. This is what it looked like:
But then I bought myself another SSD. I talked about it here: GeiL Zenith Z3 512 GB SSD review: high quality and budget.
And I decided that all four disks should be left in the system. You can, of course, just throw them into the niche of the system unit. But it's not very aesthetically pleasing. So I decided that I needed some fasteners. I got on the thingverse and found there such a simple model
By the way, I also looked to the side like this:
But it was not clear how to place it in the basket for disks, so I settled on the first option. Printed four identical parts:
Printed with a layer of 0.2mm, each part is printed on my printer 20 minutes.
Now you need to get the basket from the system unit. Here it is:
As you can see, it is designed for only two hard drives. One placed inside the basket, the second is screwed on top.
Removed from the basket SSD fastened to the printed parts.
Three disks for files placed inside the compartment, and the fourth, on which I have installed the system, screwed on top of the basket. At the same time, he took into account that you need to have gaps between the case so that you can insert a SATA cable without problems:
Then I put the basket inside the system unit and connected wires:
At the same time, naturally, I twisted the screws several times, so how at first I placed the disks on the wrong side ( with connectors back ), twisted it a second time, because I did not take into account the gap between the basket and the body. Unable to insert SATA cable ( in the photo above, the disks are located upside down, exactly as it should be, so that in them it was convenient to insert wires ). After installation, I fixed all the wires on the screeds, did cable management so to speak.
As a result, with the help of a 3D printer and an hour and a half spent for printing and 20 minutes for assembly and reassembly, I got a convenient location already three SSDs in a bay for one 3.5 HDD. Everything is securely fixed, does not dangle, does not stagger, does not rattle. Of course, this is not visible inside the case, but my inner perfectionist is satisfied.
With this article, I do not encourage everyone to run after 3D printers or similar adapters. Just told me how 3D was useful to me home printer. It was not necessary to do all this, but if I can, why not not yes?
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I do not want
Good day to all who went to the light.
I would like to share with you a short review of my experience in creating your own printer motherboard based on the STM32F401CCU6 MK, commonly known as BlackPill.
Let's start with why:
- I was just interested in trying something new. It would be possible to buy a 32-bit board instead of your old RAMPS, if not for excessive enthusiasm, as well as the desire to have everything you need and nothing more.
- no, but there is an economic component - the fee was not so expensive, the skill for change was pumped a little. And seeing the current prices for a set of Atmega2560 + RAMPS for the sake of outdated 8 bits, we can say that it turned out to be a plus.
So, what is the board like: this is the ideal of a minimalist in terms of capabilities - only 3 axes + extruder, 4 PWM controlled outputs: a table (with a powerful reliable field worker), a hot end, a model blower fan, an extruder blower fan (like me this was not enough before, the hotend cooled down to 50, the fan turned off and did not wind dust on itself all night), two temperature sensor inputs: for the table and for the hotend, respectively, 3 limit switch inputs, connectors to get 3. 3, 5, 12 volts from the board. Powered by 24V. The inputs of the limit switches are protected by an optocoupler, the inputs of thermistors by suppressors, the USB input by a static protection microcircuit. I tried to make everything as compact as possible, but to fit into 2 layers (for those who want to repeat with LUT, photoresist or on a router), therefore 0805.
The firmware is built on the basis of Marlin 2.1.1 for self-assembled Core-XY in VisualStudio Code + PlatformIO. The board itself is added to Marlin under the name BOARD_STM32F401CCU6 , compile with environment env:blackpill_f401cc_env. EEPROM emulated in controller flash area, screen 2004 (RepRapDiscount Smart Controller) tested and working.
The board is already successfully working in the printer, but alas, there is no time to drive too much, again it is field work. However, I managed to test a couple of night seals, there are no complaints about the board.
GITAt the link to the github, those who wish will find all the sources: gerber files, a BOM list with approximate prices and links to all components, firmware, instructions for adding their board to Marlin (for those who want to assemble from the original sources themselves), instructions for adding its own thermistors (the board has a feature - a pull-up on the analog input of the ADC 1kOhm instead of the usual 4. 7kOhm, this gives more ADC readings per degree at high temperatures).
P.S. Please share your experiences in the field of Open Hardware, together we can do something worthwhile.
DIY marlin open source STM32F401CCU6 GitHub
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