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Troubleshooting 3d printing


Blobs and Zits | Simplify3D Software

Blobs and Zits

During your 3D print, the extruder must constantly stop and start extruding as it moves to different portions of the build platform. Most extruders are very good at producing a uniform extrusion while they are running, however, each time the extruder is turned off and on again, it can create extra variation. For example, if you look at the outer shell of your 3D print, you may notice a small mark on the surface that represents the location where the extruder started printing that section of plastic. The extruder had to start printing the outer shell of your 3D model at that specific location, and then it eventually returned to that location when the entire shell had been printed. These marks are commonly referred to as blobs or zits. As you can imagine, it is difficult to join two pieces of plastic together without leaving any mark whatsoever, but there are several tools in Simplify3D that can be used to minimize the appearance of these surface blemishes.

Common Solutions

Retraction and coasting settings

If you start to notice small defects on the surface of your print, the best way to diagnose what is causing them is to watch closely as each perimeter of your part is printed. Does the defect appear the moment the extruder starts printing the perimeter? Or does it only appear later when the perimeter is completed and the extruder is coming to a stop? If the defect appears right away at the beginning of the loop, then it’s possible your retraction settings need to be adjusted slightly. Click on “Edit Process Settings” and go to the Extruders tab. Right below the retraction distance, there is a setting labeled “Extra Restart Distance.” This option determines the difference between the retraction distance when the extruder is stopping and the priming distance that is used when the extruder is restarting. If you notice a surface defect right at the beginning of the perimeter, then your extruder is likely priming too much plastic. You can reduce the priming distance by entering a negative value for the extra restart distance. For example, if your retraction distance is 1.0mm, and the extra restart distance is -0.2mm (note the negative sign), then each time your extruder stops, it will retract 1.0mm of plastic. However, each time the extruder has to start extruding again, it will only push 0.8mm of plastic back into the nozzle. Adjust this setting until the defect no longer appears when the extruder initially begins printing the perimeter.

If the defect does not occur until the end of the perimeter when the extruder is coming to a stop, then there is a different setting to adjust. This setting is called coasting. You can find it right below the retraction settings on the Extruder tab. Coasting will turn off your extruder a short distance before the end of the perimeter to relieve the pressure that is built up within the nozzle. Enable this option and increase the value until you no longer notice a defect appearing at the end of each perimeter when the extruder is coming to a stop. Typically, a coasting distance between 0.2-0.5mm is enough to have a noticeable impact.

Avoid unnecessary retractions

The retraction and coasting settings mentioned above can help avoid defects each time the nozzle retracts, however, in some cases, it is better to simply avoid the retractions all together. This way the extruder never has to reverse direction and can continue a nice uniform extrusion. This is particularly important for machines that use a Bowden extruder, as the long distance between the extruder motor and the nozzle makes retractions more troublesome. To adjust the settings that control when a retraction takes place, go to the Advanced tab and look for the “Ooze Control Behavior” section. This section contains many useful settings that can modify the behavior of your 3D printer. As was mentioned in the Stringing or Oozing section, retractions are primarily used to prevent the nozzle from oozing as it moves between different parts of your print. However, if the nozzle is not going to cross an open space, the oozing that occurs will be on the inside of the model and won’t be visible from the outside. For this reason, many printers will have the “Only retract when crossing open spaces” option enabled to avoid unnecessary retractions.

Another related setting can be found in the “Movement Behavior” section. If your printer is only going to retract when crossing open spaces, then it would be beneficial to avoid these open spaces as much as possible. Simplify3D includes an extremely useful feature that can divert the travel path of the extruder to avoid crossing an outline perimeter. If the extruder can avoid crossing the outline by changing the travel path, then a retraction won’t be needed. To use this feature, simply enable the “Avoid crossing outline for travel movement” option.

Non-stationary retractions

Another extremely useful feature in Simplify3D is the ability to perform non-stationary retractions. This is particularly useful for bowden extruders that build up a lot of pressure inside the nozzle while printing. Typically when these types of machines stop extruding, the excess pressure is still likely to create a blob if the extruder is standing still. So Simplify3D has added a unique option that allows you to keep the nozzle moving while it performs its retraction. This means you are less likely to see a stationary blob since the extruder is constant moving during this process. To enable this option, we have to adjust a few settings. First, click “Edit Process Settings” and go to the Extruder tab. Make sure that the “Wipe Nozzle” option is enabled. This will tell the printer to wipe the nozzle at the end of each section when it stops printing. For the “Wipe Distance”, enter a value of 5mm as a good starting point. Next, go to the Advanced tab and enable the option labeled “Perform retraction during wipe movement”. This will prevent a stationary retraction, since the printer has now been instructed to wipe the nozzle while it retracts. This is a very powerful feature and a great option to try if you are still having trouble removing these defects from the surface of your print.

Choose the location of your start points

If you are still seeing some small defects on the surface of your print, Simplify3D also provides an option that can control the location of these points. Click on “Edit Process Settings” and select the Layer tab. In most cases, the locations of these start points are chosen to optimize the printing speed. However, you also have the ability to randomize the placement of the start points or align them to a specific location. For example, if you were printing a statue, you could align all of the start points to be on the backside of the model so that they were not visible from the front. To do this, enable the “Choose start point that is closest to specific location” option and then enter the XY coordinate where you want the start points to be placed.

Related Topics

Stringing or Oozing | Simplify3D Software

Stringing or Oozing

Stringing (otherwise known as oozing, whiskers, or “hairy” prints) occurs when small strings of plastic are left behind on a 3D printed model. This is typically due to plastic oozing out of the nozzle while the extruder is moving to a new location. Thankfully, there are several settings within Simplify3D that can help with this issue. The most common setting that is used to combat excessive stringing is something that is known as retraction. If retraction is enabled, when the extruder is done printing one section of your model, the filament will be pulled backwards into the nozzle to act as a countermeasure against oozing. When it is time to begin printing again, the filament will be pushed back into the nozzle so that plastic once again begins extruding from the tip. To ensure retraction is enabled, click “Edit Process Settings” and click on the Extruder tab. Ensure that the retraction option is enabled for each of your extruders. In the sections below, we will discuss the important retraction settings as well as several other settings that can be used to combat stringing, such as the extruder temperature settings.

Common Solutions

Retraction distance

The most important retraction setting is the retraction distance. This determines how much plastic is pulled out of the nozzle. In general, the more plastic that is retracted from the nozzle, the less likely the nozzle is to ooze while moving. Most direct-drive extruders only require a retraction distance of 0.5-2.0mm, while some Bowden extruders may require a retraction distance as high as 15mm due to the longer distance between the extruder drive gear and the heated nozzle. If you encounter stringing with your prints, try increasing the retraction distance by 1mm and test again to see if the performance improves.

Retraction speed

The next retraction setting that you should check is the retraction speed. This determines how fast the filament is retracted from the nozzle. If you retract too slowly, the plastic will slowly ooze down through the nozzle and may start leaking before the extruder is done moving to its new destination. If you retract too quickly, the filament may separate from the hot plastic inside the nozzle, or the quick movement of the drive gear may even grind away pieces of your filament. There is usually a sweet spot somewhere between 1200-6000 mm/min (20-100 mm/s) where retraction performs best. Thankfully, Simplify3D has already provided many pre-configured profiles that can give you a starting point for what retraction speed works best, but the ideal value can vary depending on the material that you are using, so you may want to experiment to see if different speeds decrease the amount of stringing that you see.

Temperature is too high

Once you have checked your retraction settings, the next most common cause for excessive stringing is the extruder temperature. If the temperature is too high, the plastic inside the nozzle will become less viscous and will leak out of the nozzle much more easily. However, if the temperature is too low, the plastic will still be somewhat solid and will have difficulty extruding from the nozzle. If you feel you have the correct retraction settings, but you are still encountering these issues, try decreasing your extruder temperature by 5-10 degrees. This can have a significant impact on the final print quality. You can adjust these settings by clicking “Edit Process Settings” and selecting the Temperature tab. Select your extruder from the list on the left, and then double-click on the temperature setpoint you wish to edit.

Long movements over open spaces

As we discussed above, stringing occurs when the extruder is moving between two different locations, and during that move, plastic starts to ooze out of the nozzle. The length of this movement can have a large impact on how much oozing takes place. Short moves may be quick enough that the plastic does not have time to ooze out of the nozzle. However, long movements are much more likely to create strings. Thankfully, Simplify3D includes an extremely useful feature that can help minimize the length of these movements. The software is smart enough that it can automatically adjust the travel path to make sure that nozzle has a very short distance to travel over an open space. In fact, in many cases, the software may be able to find a travel path that avoids crossing an open space all together! This means that there is no possibility to create a string, because the nozzle will always be on top of the solid plastic and will never travel outside the part. To use this feature, click on the Advanced tab and enable the “Avoid crossing outline for travel movement” option.

Movement Speed

Finally, you may also find that increasing the movement speed of your machine can also reduce the amount of time that the extruder can ooze when moving between parts. You can verify what movement speeds your machine is using by clicking on the Speeds tab of your process settings. The X/Y Axis Movement Speed represents the side-to-side travel speed, and is frequently directly related to the amount of time your extruder spends moving over open air. If your machine can handle moving at higher speeds, you may find that increasing this settings can also reduce stringing between parts.

Related Topics

12 Filament 3D Printing Troubleshooting Tips

Category Computer tips | May 07, 2022 12:10

Filament 3D printers can produce anything from holiday decorations to medical implants, so there's no shortage of excitement in the process. The problem is getting from your 3D model to the actual print. A lot can go wrong and mess up your print, especially if you're new to it and still figuring out how 3D printing works. nine0005

In this article, we'll show you how to get better results by helping you fix your filament 3D prints that went wrong. Check out all our troubleshooting tips, apply them step by step, and above all, be patient. 3D FDM printing can be frustrating at times, but it rewards you with countless real world applications.

Table of contents

Caucasian struggles with modern 3D printer with filament curls

This is not printing

Is your 3D printer not printing anything? Don't worry, this is a common problem. There are quite a few issues that can prevent your printer from extruding any material. Here are the most common problems and how to fix them. nine0005

1. Check filament

You have prepared the printer and your model, but nothing happens. You may even get filament residue through the nozzle, but your design won't print.

Your printer has run out of filament. This may seem like an obvious problem, but it's easy to miss if you don't have a printer that alerts you when you need to add a new spool. Before looking at other possible issues, make sure your 3D printer has enough filament to print your model. nine0005

2. Check if the nozzle is clogged

If you are dealing with a clog, nothing will come out of the printer nozzle. This usually happens when you change filament or material type and the old material is stuck in the nozzle. Prevent clogging by performing regular maintenance and keeping the nozzle clean after every project.

However, if you forget to clean the nozzle, you can easily remove the blockage with a needle or other thin object. Poke the needle through the nozzle to remove as much of the remaining thread as possible. In doing so, you can heat the nozzle to make your job easier. nine0005

Alternatively, you can try pushing new thread through to clear the blockage. This may not work on its own and you will have to apply some external pressure to force out the old thread. If you try this method, apply force carefully or you may damage the printer.

3. Adjust the nozzle

If your printer still does not work, the nozzle may be too close to the print surface. When this happens, the filament cannot properly pass through the layer forming nozzle. This issue can also lead to missing layers, clogging, or adhesion issues, so be sure to adjust the nozzle height. nine0005

Go to the printer settings and change the Z-axis value. Increase the setting to the value recommended by the printer manufacturer's manual, or gradually change the nozzle height until the filament flows normally.

4. Look for Filament Fragmentation

One of the most common 3D printing problems that goes unnoticed is filament fragmentation. The filament spool seems fine, but nothing comes out through the hot end. In this case, you may be dealing with fragmentation somewhere between the coil and the nozzle. nine0005

It depends a lot on the type of material you are using, be it ABS or PLA, and how old it is. However, the only solution is to remove the filament to look for any damaged areas. If the material is new but you are sure it will break along the way, try a different spool or try lowering the temperature and flow.

5. Is the printhead missing from the platform?

Did you hear a terrible noise when you started typing? The printhead may be trying to deviate from its X or Y axis and completely lift itself off the print bed. This makes printing impossible and is usually caused by a software configuration issue. nine0005

Make sure you have selected the correct printer in the slicer software. Each model comes with its own customization options included in the configuration file. If you select the wrong model, the print head will be misaligned. However, you should also update your firmware as outdated configurations can also cause this issue.

Printing was a complete failure

So you managed to get your 3D printer working, but the printing was a complete disaster. This usually happens when the print is not sticking or when the supports are not working properly. Either way, here are the most common problems with 3D printing. nine0005

6. Eliminate Terrible Sticking to Bed

One of the most common problems that cause print failures is lack of adhesion to the table. The print does not adhere properly to the print platform, so the whole project becomes a waste of time.

First, make sure the print bed is properly leveled and clean. Any material that does not belong to the print surface can prevent filament from sticking. After that, try using supports or edges. Go to your slicer settings and print using these additional items. nine0005

7. Did the supports break and ruin your print?

As mentioned, the use of supports can help with adhesion of the print bed, but they are also necessary when printing complex models. Without supports, your print may be affected by other issues such as edge warping and misaligned layers. Also, using the wrong type of support or not enough supports can ruin your project.

Fortunately, your slicer software should automatically generate the necessary support. You then add additional supports by hand if you think your print might be marred by ridges, warping, and other issues. However, you will have to experiment with supports depending on your project. It's impossible to bypass it. nine0005

8. Extrusion gone bad

Sometimes, when you think you've got it all figured out, the hot end of your printer stops extruding filament halfway through the printing process. This will definitely ruin your entire project, but it's easy to prevent.

Make sure you have enough thread. Threading software like Cura should give you a rough estimate of how much thread you will need for your project. Just keep in mind that material types also matter when it comes to grading, so PLA requirements may not be the same as ABS requirements. Check the roll before you start. nine0005

Then check if your printer's nozzle is clogged. It can also suddenly stop extrusion during printing. In this case, refer to the clogged nozzle solutions above.

Your print looks bad

Despite your best efforts, something went wrong and your print doesn't look as nice and smooth as it should. Many things will affect the 3D printing process and will result in warping, tension, messy layers, random drops, seepage, poor infill, and ugly side effects that will ruin your project. Here's what you can do. nine0005

9. Fix Warp

One of the most common problems with 3D printing with filaments such as PLA and ABS is warp. Your model bends its base upwards and detaches from the build platform. It can also cause cracks to appear, making your print even more unusable. Fortunately, there are several possible solutions:

  • Heat print bed . By bringing the temperature of the print platform to the melting point of the material, you can make the first layers stay perfectly even. Adjust the temperature using the slicing software according to the manufacturer's recommendations. nine0102
  • Recalibrate . Go through the calibration process and level the print bed. You should also adjust the height of the attachment and make sure it is not too close or too far from the platform.
  • Use rafts . If there are adhesion or contact issues, try adding rafts using the slicer software.
10. Get the right first layer

If something goes wrong with the first layer, you will most likely end up with an ugly print. Make sure the print platform is properly leveled before you start printing. An uneven bed is the cause of most failed prints. Then adjust the nozzle height and flow rate. nine0005

11. Prevent cracking

There is nothing more ugly and useless than a cracked print. If the melted plastic cools too quickly, you are likely to get cracks, especially in the top layers. Going from such a high temperature to a low temperature will cause the material to shrink, resulting in cracks. This is usually a problem for large models.

There are two things you can try:

  • Adjust extruder temperature . Increase it in small steps, without going beyond the manufacturer's recommended values.
  • Adjust fan speed . If your model's cooling fan is blowing too hard, it may be cooling it too quickly. Tune it gradually until you find a happy medium. Keep in mind that you still need a high enough fan speed to prevent warping and other deformations.
12.
Prevent tension

Tension, also known as bleed, is one of the most common problems that ruin 3D FDM prints. Thin pieces of fibrous plastic are formed on the model as the extruder moves from one point to another.

To fix this, several factors need to be checked:

  • Temperature too high? Overheating the extruder will cause the filament to run out too fast. Lower the temperature a few degrees so it doesn't leak out so quickly. nine0102
  • Increase driving speed . If the printer is not moving fast enough in the X or Y axis, the extruder may leave thin filaments of plastic behind. Go to the slicing software settings and adjust the motion speed settings.
  • Adjust the retraction speed setting . A slow retraction speed will cause the filament to bleed through the nozzle before the extruder can move into a new position. This will stretch the plastic from point A to point B like a web. Try your slicer software presets and consider the filament material when choosing. nine0102

3D printing can be challenging

Creating a 3D model is a lot of fun, but a lot can go wrong and it's impossible to cover everything in one article. There are many variables to consider when using an FDM printer, so don't panic if your 3D print doesn't turn out the way you hoped. Make sure your printer is properly calibrated and that you are using high quality filament. Once it doesn't, follow all the troubleshooting steps. nine0005

If all else fails, please let us know more details about your 3D printing issues in the comments section below and we will do our best to help you.

3d printer defects: errors, main problems

Causes of Defects in 3D Printing and How to Fix Them

Buying a 3D printer is only half the battle. A beginner printer has a lot to go through. First, he will learn how to set up the device, calibrate the print head, set the necessary parameters, and test different types of filaments. But that's not all. The most unpleasant thing that can appear during operation is printing defects. And they need to be eliminated. nine0005

  • What are 3D printing defects?
  • Classification of defects

What are 3D printing defects?

After the printing process is completed, various defects can be found on the finished model. Most often they are associated with improper distribution of plastic. Defects appear for various reasons. But the main result is always the same - the model is damaged, you need to do the project on a new one. Printing defects cause downtime. Lost time and meters of filament.

Important! Within the framework of this article, defects that occur on FDM printers will be described. These are models of printing devices operating on the technology of hot deposition of plastic.

Sometimes mistakes can be seen right from the start. For example, when printing the first layer of a model. In these and other cases, it is necessary to prevent the defect in time. However, the press all the same should be stopped. But this way you can save material and time. This article will discuss the most common defects, as well as ways to eliminate them. At the end of the article, a comparative classification of faults will be given. nine0005

Layer displacement

The second name of this defect is skew. There are several options for the development of events at once. The skew can be slightly noticeable, with a slight deviation along the Z axis. The second option is a strong offset, the model is printed in pieces. In all these cases, the reason lies in the mechanical part of the printer.

Solutions:

  1. Check tension belts. They should be clearly in the grooves. Belt fraying or stretching is not allowed. Sometimes it is easier to replace the entire set of belts with a new one. nine0102
  2. Sometimes small misalignments are caused by an incorrectly set pulley. Make a mark with a black marker before printing, after the end of the process, check the result. Calculate the difference. Tighten the problem area if necessary.
  3. The printer has a misaligned Y and X axes. They are not perpendicular to each other. They need to be set at 90°.

Attention! In rare cases, the problem is electrical. This option must be disassembled separately, armed with a multimeter. nine0005

First layer does not stick

The initial layer acts as a foundation. If it "floats", then the whole model will get the wrong geometry. The second and subsequent layers may slightly shift the entire workpiece. The most unpleasant thing is that this defect can be found at the very end of the print.

Solution methods:

  1. Platform calibration. If the print bed is skewed, there is a good chance that the first layer will not stick. It is best to check platform calibration before starting printing. Many 3D printing programs help to go through this setting in a semi-automatic mode. nine0102
  2. Wrong print nozzle height. Another point worth considering. Most often, the extruder height setting is set through the printer parameters: Edit Process Settings → G-Code. They are located in the main menu of the device.
  3. The first layer was printed too quickly. The plastic just didn't cure. This setting must be found in the menu of the printing device. Approximate location: Settings → First Layer Speed. It is worth setting the print speed of the first layer 50% lower than the rest. nine0102
  4. Plastic cooling temperature. This option can be found on printers with a cold platform. The filament hits a cold surface, quickly hardens and rebounds. Here you need to experiment with the settings for the melting temperature of the filament or initially take a printer with a heated surface.

Important! Poor adhesion can be caused by covering material placed on top of the platform. Different glue, tape, adhesive tape - all this can repel plastic. nine0005

Pimples on the model

This also includes such defects as “snot”, sagging, sagging. All these faults are of approximately the same nature. They are related to the operation of the extruder. As it moves, it should stop, then start working again. Not all devices can lay even layers without defects. This is how the irregularities described above appear.

Solving methods:

  1. Retract and coast setting. The first parameter is responsible for starting the extruder. In this case, you need to configure the retraction through the device menu: Edit Process Settings → Extruders. Here you need to find the parameter Extra Restart Distance. Try reducing the fill length. When unevenness occurs when the nozzle stops, you need to tighten the roll-on stroke (roll-up movement). This setting is referred to as Coasting. It is in the same section where the retraction is set. nine0102
  2. It's better to avoid retraction and coasting altogether. That is, the filament must be flush with the edge of the nozzle. This parameter is especially critical for Bowden printheads. Another option is to set up retraction. You need to find the Advanced tab. It contains the Ooze Control Behavior setting. This option controls filament leakage and retraction start time.

If minor defects are still present, it is worth pointing out the entry points to the printer. This setting is found in the Edit Process Settings menu on the Layer tab. For example, you can leave small flaws inside the shape, starting printing from the inner layers. nine0005

3D printer won't print

This is one of the scariest things for a beginner 3D maker. The device appears to be broken. However, in most cases this is not the case. The printer turned on, but did not start to push through the plastic? There are four reasons for this.

Solutions:

  1. Plastic does not come out of the extruder due to leakage. This can often be seen in some cheap Chinese models. The filament is preheated in the extruder, it can seep through the hot end. The same effect can be observed after the end of the work. In this case, printing starts 3–4 seconds after the start. Automatic broken geometry of the first layer. To avoid this defect, experienced printers make the so-called skirt. This is a thin circle of filament around the future model. It is printed to bring the printer to life and fill the nozzle with plastic. nine0102
  2. The extruder is too close to the platform. The plastic just gets stuck inside the nozzle. The situation continues on the second layer. Only by the 3rd or 4th layer does the plastic begin to come out. The solution is to adjust the Z-axis height through the G-Code command.
  3. Sometimes the filament is simply chewed off by the drive gear. This is the part that pushes the thread forward. If a small amount of filament shavings is visible near the printer, it is likely that the gear has worn off the filament. You need to calibrate this node. nine0102
  4. Clogged extruder. There may be several reasons: ordinary dirt or rubbish, plastic coked inside the extruder, poor cooling of the filament. Mechanical cleaning of the nozzle with special needles or drills will help. They are sold in specialized stores.

Important! Just do not need to clean the nozzle with a screwdriver or other improvised tools. You can completely ruin the extruder.

Prints in the air

Various users are experiencing the same problem. The reasons for printing by air are related to setting new plastic settings in the slicer. Sometimes a defect appears due to incorrect setting of the Z axis.

All solutions come down to the fact that the user needs to carefully study the G-code of the printer. Sometimes the reason lies in the lowered Z-axis height settings. You can also see the print step here, perhaps it exceeds the required parameter. In the slicer, you need to check the plastic installation parameters. View the heating temperature of the nozzle and platform. All settings must be checked manually. When importing a profile, the left parameters can be picked up.

Prints in reverse: how to fix

A rare defect that is not always visible at the start of printing. That is, the model comes out normal, but mirrored. Such malfunctions are often found in Chinese kits or noname devices. There are two solutions. One is simple, the other is more difficult.

Methods of solution:

  1. It is necessary to invert one of the axes: X or Y - it does not matter. But only one. This can be done by flipping the pins on the power board or on the motor itself.
  2. Invert axis via device firmware. This method is suitable for advanced users who are familiar with programming skills. nine0102

In any case, it's better to first check all the settings in the slicer again, and only then go into the electronics of the device.

Layers skipped

The finished model shows that one or more layers have been skipped. This is eloquently evidenced by the gaps in the finished model. In rare cases, this defect is associated with insufficient extrusion. Perhaps there are problems with the capture and supply of the filament. Sometimes the reason lies in the wedging of the Z axis.

Solution methods:

  1. Check the mechanical part of the printer. If gaps began to appear frequently, you need to arrange an unscheduled maintenance of the device. Examine all shafts. Check that they are level and not misaligned. Power off the printer, try moving the head with your fingers. If resistance is felt, then one of the shafts is not installed correctly.
  2. Bearing wear. This element may simply wear out. You can see that the printer vibrates slightly. There is an unusual sound when printing. Diagnose a breakdown in the same way as the shaft. Turn off the power and move the extruder with your hands to find the problem part. nine0102

Attention! Remember to maintain your printer regularly. Lubricate the shafts with special oil. For example, for sewing machines. Before lubricating, clean the moving parts from dirt and plastic residues. Just don't overdo the oil. A large amount of lubricant can lead to the opposite effect.

Doesn't print in the center of the bed

Some users are having trouble printing on one side of the bed instead of the center of the bed. At the same time, in the slicer, the model is clearly in the center. There may be several solutions here. nine0005

Methods of solution:

  1. Slicer settings are down or incorrectly set. It is necessary to change the characteristics of the kinematics. Set the Delta robot parameter instead of the Cartesian robot. You also need to set the size of the table, equal to the square inscribed in the specified print area. In this case, set the Origin Offset parameter to half the side of the square.
  2. Try to adjust the position of the X-axis limit switch. In some cases, it is moved a little to the right.

What are the problems with the 3D printer test cube? nine0195

This figure is used to check the print quality. Naturally, during the test, she can clearly demonstrate where there are problems. It can be completely different defects. Most often, the test shows bulges and dents on the model.

These defects are caused by overheating and shrinkage. To find out for sure the cause and eliminate these factors, you need to print four cubes in different angles. For some ABS plastics, you need to reduce the temperature, as well as turn on the blower by 5-10%. nine0005

3D printing echo

This problem can be described as thin streaks that form when printing layer by layer. That is, the final model does not have a formed and even surface. There is waviness (echo) on the edges. This defect is also called ringing on the walls. Typically, two factors are the cause: print speed and vibration.

Solutions:

  1. Reduce vibration. Make sure the printer is on a level and stable surface. Assess the condition of the bearings. Replace them if necessary. nine0102
  2. Inspect the shafts. Clean them of dirt and dust, lubricate with oil.
  3. Reduce the print speed through the printer settings.

Try changing the typing speed first, then check the mechanics.

Interesting! Even a single loose bolt can cause strong vibrations. Check all fasteners. Pull the bolts.

Salmon leather

This defect is somewhat similar to the previous one. Only there are no obvious waves or ripples. The defect manifests itself in the form of a pattern. It is similar to the representation of heights on topographic maps or the structure of salmon skin that is drawn on the walls of the model. In English resources it is called salmon skin. The defect appears due to two reasons: vibrations and incorrect characteristics of the current coming to the motors. nine0005

Solutions:

  1. Remove any vibration that may occur in the device. Tighten the bolts and check the frame geometry. You can also slightly reduce the print speed.
  2. Installation of a special impulse reducer (TL-Smoother) in the circuit between the driver and the axle motor. This solution balances the current indicators. The edges are more even.

Salmon skin defect is common on DRV8825 stepper motor drivers.

Ripple

In this case, we are talking about the partial impact of waves on some parts of the model. The ripples are often of the same nature as the echo. It is also tied to vibrations and the speed of the extruder. However, unlike waves, ripples are especially pronounced at sharp corners, when the nozzle abruptly changes direction.

Methods of solution:

  1. Reduce the print speed. You need to find the Edit Process Settings menu in the printer settings, and then open the Other tab. Change two settings: Default Printing Speed ​​and X/Y Axis Movement Speed. The first is responsible for the speed of all movements of the nozzle, the second - the speed in the absence of plastic supply. Sometimes the reason lies in the factory firmware. It initially indicates increased extruder acceleration. nine0102
  2. We remove vibrations. Check the geometry of the device, stretch all the bolts, assess the condition of the shafts and bearings. Lubricate the device if necessary.

We recommend checking the print speed settings first.

Poor filling

If the figure is not filled enough, it means that it will not receive sufficient strength. The model may simply break or crack. Usually the causes of poor coverage lie in the slicer settings or print speed settings. nine0005

Solutions:

  1. Try changing the fill pattern. It is indicated by the Internal Fill Pattern parameter. There are presets in the settings with complicated filling options that give more strength to the finished model: Grid, Triangular and Solid Honeycomb. The printing time will increase, but the strength will also increase.
  2. Reduce print speed. The fast movement of the print head results in less infill. You need to tweak this parameter through the settings of the device itself or through the slicer parameters. nine0102
  3. Change extrusion width parameter. Some 3D printing programs allow you to set different infill values ​​for individual elements. For example, for the outer layers, set the size to 0.4 mm, for the inner layers - 0.8 mm. These settings can be viewed in the menu Edit Process Settings → Infill. In it you need to find the parameter Infill Extrusion Width. It is shown as a percentage. The higher the number, the thicker the layer.

Attention! When setting the Infill Extrusion Width parameter, make sure that the set value (in percent) is supported by the printing program (slicer). nine0005

Plastic is leaking from the extruder threads

This fault can be attributed to local printer failures, although they can create a number of defects in the form of "snot" on the model. Plastic oozes through various slots, flows down the extruder thread, exits the opening of the heating element. There may be several options for solving the problem.

Solutions:

  1. Check all screw connections. Sometimes a caked piece of plastic gets stuck between them. It creates a gap, the filament flows out. nine0102
  2. Clean and polish the surfaces of the thermal barrier tube and nozzle. Installing a fluoroplastic washer or winding a fum tape can also help.
  3. Reinforced cold drawing of threaded connections.

Attention! Sometimes the reason lies in a manufacturing defect. Nothing can be done here. Just completely change the extruder.

Plastic does not come out of the nozzle

For some reason, the printer has stopped feeding filament. The device continues to make noise with the engines, but the plastic does not come out of the nozzle. There may be several reasons and solutions for this. nine0005

Solution methods:

  1. The plastic is out. For some printers, the filament spool is covered with a casing. Therefore, it is impossible to immediately understand that the thread is over. Check for material in the spool.
  2. The thread has broken. There was a gap between the hot end and the extruder. A common cause is with Bowden printheads. Perhaps the problem is with the filament itself. You need to try other material.
  3. Low plastic melting temperature set. The thick filament cannot pass through the narrow nozzle opening. Recommended temperature parameters for different types of plastic: PLA - heating t 180 °C, table heating t 60–80 °C; ABS - heating t 240 °C, table heating t 110 °C. nine0102

Interesting! Sometimes a clogged nozzle is causing the print to stop. This can happen even during work.

Model delamination

Visually, this defect looks like an accordion. In some places, the layers move away from each other. At the same time, it is clear that this is not a pass, but the absence of sticking of plastic. Layer separation occurs due to incorrect setting of the filament thickness or its melting temperature.

Solving methods:

  1. Reduce layer thickness (height). Here you need to follow the rule: the maximum layer thickness should be no more than 80% of the nozzle diameter. Otherwise, the layers will not stick to each other.
  2. Raise the melting point of plastic. If the height parameter is in order, then you need to look at the temperature settings. For example, the optimum melting temperature of ABS plastic is 220–240 °C, but some users set it to only 190 °C. You can increase the melting temperature in the slicer settings: Edit Process Settings → Temperature. nine0102

If standard temperatures are not suitable, try raising the setting by 10 °C. See if the adhesion of the layers improves or not.

3D printer extruder does not heat up

At the same time, the device shows 100% heating power, the set temperature is on the display, but the extruder is cold. In most cases, the cause lies in a break in the wires or in the heating element itself. Ring all circuit elements after the controller. To cut off problems on the heating element, apply 12 V to it. It should start to heat up. nine0005

Attention! Newer printers may encounter factory extruder defects. This element needs to be changed. There is no point in repairing the item.

Plastic falls in waves

Another name for this defect is “elephant foot”. In this case, the upper layers of the model are pushing against the lower parts, causing a wave effect. It sort of descends from top to bottom, forming a thick layer at the base of the model. This problem is especially common on models of printers with a heated bed. nine0005

Methods of solution:

  1. Find the optimal temperature regime between heating the table and blowing the model. Lower the heating temperature in steps of 5 °C. It is important to find a balance here, when the lower layers have already gained strength, but still retain adhesive properties for the following layers.
  2. Calibrate the table. Try applying the default settings. If the problem persists, slightly change the Z-axis height settings. Calibrate the new settings on the test cube. This is the base shape that clearly shows how the layers are laid down. nine0102
  3. Chamfer the base. The option is suitable for homemade devices. You need to start with a bevel of 5 mm and 45 °, after which you can make small adjustments.

Slits between walls

Such defects can be found when printing rather thin walls in the model. For example, when the extruder nozzle prints strips up to 0.4 mm thick, and the user needs to make a 1 mm edge. In such places, cracks may appear at the joints of the two layers. Typically, the defect is eliminated through the adjustment of the slicer. nine0005

Solution methods:

  1. We need to find the setting that is responsible for the wall thickness. Usually they are in the menu: Edit Process Settings → Advanced. Here you need to find the Gap Fil parameter. He is just responsible for overlapping areas and filling the gaps between thin walls. Check the box next to Allow gap fill when necessary. There is also an alternative. Go to the Infill tab and tweak the Outline Overlap parameter.
  2. Simply adjust the extrusion width. Increase the parameter value if possible. The strip width can be set on the Extruders tab via the Edit Process Settings menu. nine0102

Try and experiment to get the best fit.

Web

A special case of filament leakage, when sloppy plastic threads remain between the parts. This happens for the same reasons as influxes. The solution methods are exactly the same:

  1. Changing the speed and distance of thread retraction. Full instructions are listed above.
  2. Lower print temperature. Try tweaking this setting to reduce the fluidity of the plastic. Here you need to be careful. Excessive decrease in temperature can lead to a delamination defect. nine0102
  3. A separate solution is to set a parameter in the slicer that launches the print head in a long and winding path over empty space. The web falls near the model without sticking to its walls. No bridge is formed between the layers. To enable this option, go to the advanced settings of the slicer (Advanced). Check the box next to the Avoid crossing outline for travel movement option.

Interesting! Some 3D makers do not consider a web defect as something serious. They simply cut off the excess filament with a knife after the print is finished. nine0005

Extruder does not feed plastic

This problem is in the filament feed mechanism. Or the nozzle is too close to the table.

Solution methods:

  1. Check the plastic filament. It may have burrs on it. The feed gear has slipped. Check the condition of the thread, you may need to tweak the gear settings a little. Or change the plastic.
  2. Calibrate the table position. Raise the Z-axis a little.

Sometimes the extruder refuses to feed plastic due to a clogged nozzle. It needs to be cleaned up. nine0005

Classification of defects

Almost all defects are one way or another related to two reasons: a malfunction of the mechanical part of the printer or incorrect software settings. Based on these parameters, it is possible to make a classification based on the most common problems in printing:

  1. Deterioration of nodes and the absence of a normal fastener feed. This parameter affects vibrations, nozzle movement trajectories.
  2. Poor extruder maintenance. The print head needs to be cleaned from time to time, to remove the sintered filament. nine0102
  3. Inaccurate (wrong) calibration of the platen and nozzle height. Another common mistake that causes a lot of print defects.
  4. Problems with printer settings. Most often solved through manual setting of parameters or adjustment of the G-code.
  5. Lost settings in the slicer. This includes: changed parameters, errors or inaccuracies in the firmware.
  6. Poor quality filament. The problem may lie in the quality of the plastic. It is necessary to monitor its condition, quantity. If necessary, try to replace the manufacturer, or even switch to another type of filament. nine0102
  7. Electrical problems. To find such a malfunction, you need to arm yourself with a multimeter and ring all the circuits after the controller.
  8. Factory defect. The problem is solved by replacing a low-quality part.

These are the main printer malfunctions that in one way or another affect its operation, which leads to printing defects. The printer may have several problems at once. They will lead to the appearance of a group of defects. You need to be able to recognize the first signs of breakdown in time and eliminate them. nine0005

Important! At least once every two weeks, pay attention to the mechanics of the printer, carry out maintenance on the device. Clean the nodes, lubricate the shafts with oil. Check the platen and extruder calibration.

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