Maker select 3d printer v1

Semi-automatic 3-Point Table Calibration

Allows you to calibrate the print platform by 3 points on the plane.

All points are above the three screws with springs holding the top of the table to the bottom.

To start calibration in the printer display menu, select:
"Movement" -> "Table calibration" -> "Manual 3 points"

*Nozzle and table must already be at operating temperature. The table must be cleaned of plastic residues.

This will start a sequence of automatic commands and the printer will send the nozzle to the first point above the table, where it will descend and wait for the user's command.

At this time, the user must, having placed a sheet of A4 size paper in advance, twist the appropriate handle under the table in the right direction.

It is necessary to ensure that a sheet of paper sandwiched between the table glass and the nozzle is slightly pressed down, but can be removed without tearing.

If a sheet of paper is jammed or passes freely, tighten the appropriate knob.

When the gap is set, "Next Point" must be selected from the printer's display menu.

The printer will automatically continue moving to the next points, where the gap between the nozzle and the table also needs to be corrected.

When the gap is set at all three points, "Back" must be selected from the printer's display menu to end the calibration.

*Experienced user can set the gap without using a sheet of paper, "by eye". In this case, when calibrating, the nozzle must touch the table at each point. The gap between them should be equal to zero.

Semi-automatic 9-point table calibration

Allows you to accurately calibrate the printing platform by nine points on the plane. Possible unevenness of the table will be compensated by the printer software during the printing process.

Two steps are required for the table geometry compensation function to work:

1) Calibrate the table by 9 points
2) Enable the table geometry compensation function in G-code printing.

9-point table calibration:

To start the calibration in the printer display menu, select:
"Move" -> "Calibrate table" -> "Calibrate table"

*Nozzle and table must already be at operating temperature. The table must be cleaned of plastic residues.

This will start a sequence of automatic commands and the printer will send the nozzle to the first of nine points above the table, where it will descend and wait for the user's command.

At this time, the user must, having previously placed a sheet of A4 size paper, , use the display handle to twist it in the desired direction. The table itself will move up or down in increments of 0.020 mm.

It is necessary to ensure that a sheet of paper sandwiched between the table glass and the nozzle is slightly pressed down, but can be removed without tearing.

If the sheet of paper is jammed or passes freely, turn the display knob .

When the gap is set, "Next point" must be selected from the printer's display menu.

The printer will automatically continue moving to the next points, where the gap between the nozzle and the table also needs to be corrected.

When the gap is set in all nine points, the calibration is finished.

After that, select "Save settings" in the printer menu.

If necessary, it is possible to manually edit the values ​​of the grid points of the table through the printer menu "Edit Grid".

*Experienced user can set the gap without using a sheet of paper, "by eye". In this case, when calibrating, the nozzle must touch the table at each point. The gap between them should be equal to zero.

Table Geometry Compensation Function

To enable the table geometry compensation function during printing, there must be an "M420 S" command in the print G-code after the "G28" command.
The "M420 S0" command can be used to disable the function.
When using ready-made print profiles from the printer manufacturer, the necessary commands are already registered automatically.

Filling, removing plastic

To start the procedure for changing plastic, you need to heat the nozzle to the operating temperature, select in the printer display menu: "Change filament"

The 3D printer extruder will automatically move aside, the printer will wait until the nozzle temperature stabilizes, then the extruder will start to rotate in the opposite direction to unload the filament.

At the same time, the message "Wait for filament unloading" will appear on the display of the 3D printer.

At this time, it is necessary to pull on the plastic thread coming out near the spool so that it does not remain in the extruder.

After removing the filament, prepare a new spool, thread the new filament into the feed tube of the extruder near the spool.

This will cause the 3D printer to display the message "Insert the bar and press the button to continue".

Press the display knob, the extruder will rotate, dragging the filament with it. Push the filament from the side of the spool into the tube so that the feed mechanism of the extruder can hook it.

If done correctly, plastic should flow from the extruder nozzle. In this case, select "Resume Printing" from the display menu. This completes the filament change.

If the plastic does not flow out of the extruder, select "Squeeze More", slightly loosen the front pressure knob of the extruder, push the rod further into the tube, tighten the front pressure knob of the extruder. Repeat this until the plastic flows out of the extruder.

Attention! For all hard plastics, it is necessary to clamp the front pressure knob of the extruder until it begins to turn tight.

Do not overtighten the front knob, this will flatten the bar and put more stress on the extruder feed mechanism, which can lead to increased wear.

Do not loosen the front knob when printing with hard plastics, as this will cause plastic misfeeds and poor print quality.

Start 3D printing from computer

Load into the "Repetier-Host" control program the previously prepared in the "Cura" program for printing in Gcode format.

Start printing with the Start button.

Stopping the printing process is done by the "Stop" button

During printing, it is possible to change the print speed from 25% to 300% of the values ​​specified in the Gcode.

It is also possible to change the amount of plastic supplied from 50% to 150% (default 100%)

Be careful when increasing these parameters, because. significantly exceeding 100% can damage the printer.

Offline operation, start 3D printing from SD card

For offline 3D printing without a computer, prepare the Gcode for 3D printing in advance and save it to an external SD card.

Turn on the printer, insert the SD card on the left side of the printer near the display into the dedicated slot.

At the same time, a message will appear at the bottom of the display that "Card inserted".

If during slicing the table and extruder temperatures were set in the code, then printing can be started immediately.

If the code does not indicate heating, then it is necessary to turn on the heating of the table and nozzle to the desired temperature from the printer display menu.

After the printer has warmed up, select "Print from SD card" from the menu.

In the list of files that appears, select the desired one, click on it, printing will start.

* Cyrillic filenames cannot be displayed correctly, so name files in the Latin alphabet.

During printing, it is possible to change parameters such as:

During printing, it is possible to "pause" the print, as well as change the filament.

Extruder assembly

Front View

Side View

Nozzle Replacement Procedure

Standard nozzles

- brass D0.3, D0.5

shortened nozzles

- brass d0. 1, d0.2

- steel D0.4, D0.6

* All work is performed in heat -protection
* Be careful with the white wires on the heater - they are thin!

1. lower the table along the Z-axis down 15 cm
2. Heat the extruder to the printing temperature of the plastic that was last used in printing.
3. carry out the procedure for extracting plastic from the extruder
4. Disconnect extruder heating wire
5. Loosen the nozzle together with the heating block on the thermal barrier (on a heated extruder) with the hexagon head from the printer kit
6. Unscrew the countersunk screw on the lower right in the radiator with a thin hexagon wrench and release the thermal barrier downwards
7. pull out the thermal barrier together with the heating block and nozzle down
8. holding the heating block, unscrew the nozzle from block 9 with a hex head0061 9. if necessary, remove plastic residue from all parts while they are hot
10. installation of the nozzle and assembly is carried out in reverse order on a heater heated to 240C

The maximum production speed of the 3D printer is up to 40 cm3/hour. (With a plastic weight of 1 g/cm3 - 40 grams/hour)

To achieve maximum production speed, all the following conditions:

1. The speed of movement and printing of all perimeters and filling is not lower than 100mm/sec.

2. The use of plastic that can be soldered well in layers at high speed printing (for example, PLA plastic).

3. Using plastic that can heat up enough to melt through the entire extruder at high speed (eg PLA).

4. Use the extruder temperature to melt the plastic closer to the maximum for that plastic.

5. Use a nozzle with a diameter of 0.5 mm and a layer height of 0.3 mm.

6. Simple product geometry.

If you deviate from the above conditions, the production speed of products will be less than the maximum.

If you need to increase the speed of manufacturing a product without changing the above conditions, then you can take advantage of one of the advantages of 3D printing that distinguishes it from other production methods - this is a change in the density of the internal filling (filling, infill).

Reducing infill density from 100% to 0 allows you to print the same product much faster.

Example: fill 0% - only side walls, bottom and top are printed on the product, it is empty inside. High manufacturing speed, but low strength.

Example: 20% fill - internal fill sufficient to support the walls of a product with complex geometry. High manufacturing speed, acceptable strength.

Example: 50% fill - dense inner fill. Good manufacturing speed, high strength.

Example: 100% fill - full internal fill. Low manufacturing speed, maximum strength.

Examples of simple products, 40 cm3, weight 40 g, for printing at maximum speed in 1 hour.

Example with 100% fill
size 4 *4*2.5 cm
material volume 40 cm3
print time 1 hour.

Download 3D-model file "Cube", size 4*4*2.5 cm, volume 40 cm3, with 100% fill.

Example with 20% fill
size 12 *4*2.5 cm
material volume 40 cm3
print time 1 hour.

Download 3D model file "Cube", size 12*4*2.5 cm, volume 40 cm3, with 20% fill.

In this example, an item 3 times as long, but with a sparse fill of 20%, is printed in the same time as an item 3 times smaller in length, but with a solid fill of 100%. This is because the volume of extruded plastic and the weight of both products is the same.

Maintenance

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When using the 3D printer, keep the inside of the case clean.

Fine particles can be picked up by the airflow from the fan and then deposited on the pins, lead screw and belts, which can result in poor print quality and accelerated wear on the moving parts.

Periodically wipe down the inside of the case with a dry cloth and remove all small and large debris left after 3D printing from the build chamber. Alcohol-based wipes are allowed.

If there is dust or debris on the guide axles, lead screw, remove them with a dry paper towel.

XYZ axles are lubricated with Litol-24 grease. Frequency - 1 time in 6 months.

Z axis vertical lead screw - lubricated with PMS-100 liquid silicone grease. Application - from top to bottom around the circumference of the screw. Excess is removed with a dry cloth. Frequency - 1 time in 6 months.

Cleaning the Platen

After several print cycles, a patchy layer of dried adhesive may form on the platen, which is necessary to secure the part to the platen. An inhomogeneous layer of adhesive may impair the print quality of the first layer, so it must be scraped off with a clerical knife, and then carefully remove the scraped material with a dry cloth. After that, it is necessary to apply a new, even layer of glue.

It is also possible to smooth out uneven layers of dried glue with a damp cloth, but this must be done carefully so that moisture does not get on the edges of the table under the glass, where it can adversely affect the heating surface of the table.

All manipulations must be carried out with the extruder and table cooled down!

Faberant Cube 3D printer version, firmware

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Printer version	Improvements	Firmware	Changes
V1.20	Remote shutdown function from the control program, from the print code, from the display menu. Automatic shutdown in case of malfunction. New reinforced extruder connector. Increased the brightness of the interior lighting.	firmware_v1.20_03.bin Download Firmware compatible with printers V1.18, V1.19	Improved filament change algorithm via display menu. Improved algorithm for semi-automatic table calibration by 9 points.
V1.19	Design improvements to improve printer build quality.	firmware_v1.20_03.bin Download	Firmware update
V1.18	Improved accuracy of extruder temperature determination in the working temperature range.	firmware_v1.20_03.bin Download Firmware is not compatible with previous printer versions!	Firmware update
V1.17	Optimization of metal part shapes, printer shell shape. Hole for adjusting the brightness of the display in the outer frame.	firmware_v1.17_04.bin Download Firmware compatible with printers V1.16	Firmware update
V1.16	New version of electronics - SKR 1.3	firmware_v1.17_04.bin Download	Firmware update
V1.15	New electronics 32 bit SKR 1.1 instead of Arduino DUE. Possibility to install standard and short nozzles - steel and small diameter 0.2 and 0.1 mm.	firmware_v1.15_47.bin Download	Firmware update

Firmware installation procedure:

1) Connect the 3D printer to the computer via USB cable

2) Run the "Repetier-Host" printer management program, connect to the 3D printer

3) Enter the menu 3) Enter the menu Configuration -> EEPROM Configuration

4) Select "Export EEPROM Data", save the *. mepr file to a convenient location

5) Download the new firmware from the website

6) To download the firmware to the 3D printer, rename the firmware file to firmware.bin

7) Copy the firmware.bin file to the internal memory of the 3D printer (defined as a disk in Windows)

8) Reboot the 3D printer with the button under the monitor. This will automatically overwrite the new firmware in the printer's memory

9) After the printer becomes active, turn it off. If this is not done, the firmware may not work correctly the first time. *.mepr 9 file0010

11) 3D Printer Ready

Safety Precautions

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1) Do not leave the printer unattended while it is running.

2) do not touch the heating element, nozzle or table with your hands. they heat up to a high temperature.

3) if it is necessary to maintain the heated parts of the printer, use heat-resistant gloves

4) do not touch the resulting part with your hands during printing.

5) turn off the 3D printer from the 220V network after finishing work.

6) Do not lift, move, or lay on its side the 3D printer that is plugged in.

7) When printing with plastics other than PLA, ventilate the room.

8) Do not cover the operating printer with anything, as this may cause the electronics to overheat.

3D printer Funtastique EVO v1.0: first acquaintance / Sudo Null IT News For me, it has always been something complicated and incomprehensible, something that can only be collected in laboratories. But the year 2017 has come, and the printer can be assembled at home. Just read the instructions. Modular 3D printer Funtastique EVO v1.0 is suitable for the role of the first home printer when special knowledge in 3D printing is not required. It is assembled simply, like a children's designer, you do not need to solder or program anything. Everything has already been set up for us.

Packaging

The box is impressive. What's inside?

What's inside

Packing List.

Packing List

Characteristics

Funtastique EVO v1.0 3D printer parameters

Print area (XYZ): 125 x 1606 x mm Print layer height: from 0.05 mm
Nozzle diameter: 0.40 mm
Software: CURA RepetierHost
Consumable types: PLA, PVC, PETG, PP, Wood
Weight: 5.0 kg

Parts lie tightly in foam

Modularity

The printer consists of modules. The manufacturer offers the printer in finished form and in the form of a designer. I received the printer in a blue DIY kit. As far as I know, Dajet also has orange.

Opening

Assembly

It is easy to assemble and disassemble. All parts are fastened with clamps. Lightweight frame is made from ABS plastic.

Assembling

If placed in a room or office, it will not spoil the look of the interior at all. All thanks to the stylish design. Assembling and setting up the printer took me half an hour. Fastening all the details with clamps is a pleasure.

Table setting

Magnetic work table. The manufacturer says that you can do without adhesive tape. Partly it is. But if the part is high, then without a tape, further work will be impossible.

Table view

The table is easy to put on and take off. We collect.

Assembly

We fasten special guides.

Fastening the rails

Clip the modules into the slots.

Nozzle

We put the block with the nozzle.

Almost done

The outside already looks like a device.

Latches

The latches can be conveniently brought into place with a rubber mallet.

What is a hammer and what can it do

When all the parts are installed, we connect the drive belts.

Belt

In the instructions, we carefully follow the numbers of the parts to be mounted.

Tube

We connect the plastic guide tube.

Control box

Insert the control box.

Connect

And connect all the wires.

Starting up

Starting the printer

The printer blinked and happily announced that it was ready to go.

Head

The peculiarity of this printer is that it can work offline. It is enough to throw the model in gcode format on a flash drive and upload it for printing.

Software

The printer can be conveniently controlled using the included Cura software.

Cura is included in the package

Cura is completely in Russian, it is a pleasure to work with it, at least for me, a complete loser in this new business for me.

Test print

Test print

Trying a test print.

Be sure to put gasket

Indispensable without lining. Even better is to purchase a special adhesive tape. Below I will show why. Then the part will sit securely on the table.

Monitor

The printing process took about 5 minutes.

Plastic feed

Plastic is fed through the plastic feed unit.

Coil holder

The coil is located below.

Print process

Printing proceeds without any errors.

Printed

The output is a finished geometric object.

Printing without sticky paper results in a crooked bottom instead of a bottom

If you try to print a model without sticky tape or paper, the model may come out slightly crooked. In general, the main reliable bottom.

The first pancake is lumpy

Rejection as a reason for printing without a special tape

The one-sided tape failed at the very end when the robot needed eyes.

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