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3D Printing -The New Age of Printing

Imagine you’re a toy manufacturer. It’s the beginning of the fiscal quarter, and it’s your turn to come up with a neat idea to impress the boss. There’s just one problem: it’s due tomorrow! You’ve got a great concept, but there’s no way you can “mock up” a prototype by tomorrow morning. What are you going to do?

Relax. You’ve got a 3D printer. That’s right. After you sketch your design on to a normal sheet of paper, scan it, and make a few adjustments in a 3D modeling program, you hit “print” and your full-color figurine appears inside the printer next to your desk.

Sound like science fiction? Far from it in fact. 3D printers are “out of this world” technology, but do exist on this planet. They work on the platform of “additive manufacturing.” That is, they analyze the dimensions and colors of the object to be printed, then build an object “from the ground up. ” Layer by layer, levels of plastic, resin, powder, and even metal are sprayed onto a platform, forming a perfect replica of the object in amazing detail.

There is one downside. 3D printers are still a little expensive. Because of their relatively high cost, 3D printers have long been relegated to companies that absolutely need them. Architects, auto manufacturers, and yes, toy makers, have had this technology for years, but as of late, prices are coming down, making 3D printers affordable to a wider range of customer.

Projects such as RepRap (www.reprap.org) are spearheading the evolution of 3D printing. It is their hope, if only for academic interests, to accelerate the evolution of 3D printing so as to make them more affordable to the average consumer. By taking on new and interesting ideas within the realm of additive manufacturing, they have succeeded in drawing attention to their cause.

Lately, RepRap has focused on building a 3D printer that can print its own components. That is, a printer that is capable of reproducing. The implications of this sort of technology are incredible. For example, with the appropriate artificial intelligence, it is absolutely conceivable that such a printer could build a completely independent robotic automaton without the help of a human.

These kinds of ideas may still be a little far-fetched, but the “basics” of 3D printing are here, and already in use.

Best 3D Printer Candidate 2022 / 3D Printers, Machine Tools & Accessories / iXBT Live

If you want quality printing out of the box as well as a solid build, then Kywoo3D Tycoon Max is the one for you. This printer attracted me with interesting features at a low price. And most importantly, what attracted me is a very reliable design. After all, it is she who affects the quality of the print.

I found the first mentions of this manufacturer and printer on Kickstarter, and then on local sites. Then the model was simply discussed, but there were no real owners. But then the first reviews appeared, and to be honest, the printer was not praised in them. Despite the thoughtful design, the printer had problems with airflow and buggy firmware. Therefore, when I needed a 3D printer, I took myself Anet ET4 Pro. But then there was a need for another printer, so I, again returning to the question of choice, decided to take myself a Tycoon Max. And now, having used the printer for several weeks, I realized that I made the right choice. The printer for its price really gives excellent print quality, and if necessary, also a very fast print speed comparable to deltas.

Characteristics of Kywoo3D Tycoon Max:

Well, in words, I’ll add something that is not in the table:

Print area: 300 * 300 * 230mm
Print type: FDM
Number of extruders: 1
l. -0.4mm
Nozzle: 0.4mm
Control: USB, MicroSD card, Wi-Fi
Power: 350W
Maximum table temperature: 100C
Maximum extruder temperature: 260C

Additional design information:
High rigidity aluminum profile frame.
X-axis rails, Y-axis shafts.
Z-axis motor belt synchronization
16-point auto-leveling
3.5" touch screen for printer and printing process control
Convenient filament threading with ring on extruder 90 015
Now let's talk about the printer itself. It was ordered from a warehouse in the Russian Federation, and the delivery time took 5 days. A huge box weighing 16kg was received in the mail:

Inside the box is a printer disassembled into two parts. Everything lies in layers, which are laid with foam material. So it is unlikely that anything could be damaged along the way. Opening the box, the first layer I saw was the lower frame of the Y-axis with a heating table and ultra-base:

Below the next layer is the main frame of the Z-axis, a coil of PLA test plastic, a box with accessories:

I’ll tell you right away about the complete plastic. It has a weight of 500g, wound on a plastic reel, sealed in a vacuum bag. I printed part of the coil during the tests, and I liked the plastic.

As for complete accessories, everything is relatively standard. Inside the box are a spatula, a set of hexagons in a convenient case, several spare ties, wire cutters, clamps for the ultrabase, four screws for assembling the printer, a Phillips screwdriver, a piece of heat pipe, a spare 0.4mm nozzle, a needle for cleaning the nozzle, a wrench for unscrewing the nozzle, spare limit switch, USB cable, reel mounting stand. Also included is a card reader and a MicroSD 8Gb flash drive manufactured by Netac ( a good manufacturer, I have several flash drives of this company, and they work well )

The printer is powered through a detachable cord with a European-type plug. If necessary, it can be replaced without any problems:

Also included with the printer is an assembly and configuration manual. It is made on high-quality printing, but, in fact, there is no great benefit from it:

Now let's consider ultrabase glass. It has dimensions of 305*320mm and a thickness of 4mm. On the edge there is an inscription with the logo of the manufacturer:

Having already printed enough parts, I can say that the quality of the Ultrabase is excellent. It is strong, there are no problems with plastic sticking, it heats up evenly. And at the end of printing and cooling, the parts come off without problems.

The ultrabase is attached to the heating table with 4 stationery clips (they are included). The heating table itself is made of metal, and is attached to the frame on shafts through plain bearings. By the way, in order to reduce weight and inertia during movement, the manufacturer made the table itself with holes that do not affect rigidity.

By the way, the table is connected to the control board via the XT60 connector. This is the first time I see such a solution, but logically, this is a fairly reliable connection.

Another thing I would like to note on the table frame and X-axis is the presence of good legs that can be adjusted in height. This is useful if the printer is not standing on a completely flat surface, and correct adjustment will avoid unnecessary movement of the frame when printing.

Now let's move on to inspecting the frame along the YZ axes. It also contains the control board and power supply. It also has an extruder. This is what it looks like:

The first thing I want to pay attention to is the overall rigidity of the frame. It uses a double frame made of aluminum profile, on which there is a metal box on top. This box serves two purposes: hiding the interior of the printer and adding rigidity to the frame. And it has a very good effect on the quality of the print.

The Z-axis of the printer is fixed on the frame through two shafts rigidly fixed to the frame itself and a closed plain bearing, and for moving there are two studs with stepper motors on both sides. Additionally, the manufacturer has added a belt that synchronizes the operation of these stepper motors:

Rails are installed on the printer to move the extruder. They are quite high quality, and during the work I personally did not have any problems with them. For better sliding, the rails are immediately lubricated from the factory, and the rails themselves also have holes through which this lubricant enters the rails. Also, through these holes, the rails were fastened along the entire length of the frame.

As for the extruder, the manufacturer did not reinvent the wheel, and equipped the printer with a proven solution. This is MK10, but with some modifications. First, it adds an iron frame that looks good while protecting the user from contact with hot extruder elements. I would like to think that this frame also serves as an additional radiator, but if you look at how it is fixed, it immediately becomes clear that there is not much heat coming to it. And the second addition is a special lamb for scrolling plastic when refueling. And this is a really handy feature. When refueling, you do not need to press anything, as in other printers. We simply pull the plastic through the plastic sensor, point it into the hole of the extruder and turn the lamb. Plastic itself immediately clings and is pressed through. A simple and elegant solution that is sorely lacking in other printer models.

Also immediately above the extruder is a low filament sensor. This is also a pretty good solution, since the distance between the sensor and the extruder is minimized here. And this means that you don’t have to throw out 20-30cm filament bars that simply cannot be pushed into the printer. The amount of waste here is minimal.

As for blowing, a fan with an impeller is used here, which is mounted near the nozzle. Fan model pb04010ms4. The airflow itself is realized through a wide slot. I personally did not notice any problems with blowing during printing, there is enough blowing, and it blows directly on the model. The blowing speed can naturally be adjusted both during the cutting of the model, and already directly during printing, the fan has speed control.

I also once had to disassemble the extruder to replace the nozzle during printing. What was in the kit, I managed to score on my own stupidity, alternating types of plastics without changing the temperature. Therefore, I will show the extruder in disassembled form:

I also want to draw attention to the fact that the printer has a table auto-calibration function. For this, a BL Touch sensor is installed here. More precisely, there is not the original 3D Touch with a plastic plug.

But by the way, I have no complaints about his work. The table calibrates perfectly, and even if there is a misalignment of fractions of millimeters, everything is taken into account and there are no problems with printing. The table itself is calibrated using 36 points (6*6) and looks like this:

Also, in addition, I can also note the presence of a silicone lining on the hotend, so that the temperature is more stable:

Well, after we have examined both halves of the frame, we can start assembling the printer. She's very simple. The existing 4 screws are screwed through the grooves, and we stretch harder.

Additionally, you need to connect the connector to the table and connect the motor along the X axis. By the way, in the printer, all the wires are laid right away, and where they can be fixed with ties. Therefore, nothing dangles here, does not hang down and is as neat as possible:

That's it, the assembly is finished. This is what the assembled printer looks like, well, with the exception of the ultrabase and the bracket for installing the filament spool.

The bracket itself, by the way, is standard, like most printers in this price range. Metal profile and plastic tube. The bracket is installed at any point of the aluminum profile, through two spacer nuts:

Well, once the printer is assembled, you can consider the rest of the design elements. If you look at the back of the printer, you can see the power button and the port for connecting the power cord:

On the other hand, there is a sticker on the frame with information about the printer:

Separately, I would like to note one more convenient feature of this particular printer, which I have not seen anywhere else. These are convenient carrying handles:

They are metal and rigidly fixed to the frame, you can safely lift the entire structure with them and not worry that something will break. For me, this is very important, since my printer can be transferred to different points around the room, and even between rooms. Depending on how long the print is placed.

If you look at the printer from the right end, then you can see a slot for a MicroSD card through which a model for printing is thrown onto the printer. There is also a MicroUSB port for connecting to a computer (does anyone use this method of printing?) and another slot for SD cards, the purpose of this slot remains a mystery to me:

Well, now the most interesting. It is, of course, a touch screen. When you turn on the printer, we first see a splash screen with the manufacturer's logo, and then the main desktop, from which you can get to different settings:0003
All items on the desktop are interactive. Management is implemented by clicking on the desired element. For example, by clicking on the ruler of XYZ axes, we get to the axis calibration menu:

And if you click on the flash drive icon, the files for printing located on the flash drive are opened:

The printer sees folders and subfolders without problems, but there are Russian file names Problems. In the current firmware, the Cyrillic alphabet looks like unreadable krakozyabry.

If you click on the gear icon, then naturally we get into the settings menu. Here you can select the temperature of the preheating of the table and extruder, change the filament during printing or in idle time. Find out information about the firmware, set up Wi-fi and select the interface language ( there is no Russian language in the photo, but it has already been added in the latest firmware )

By the way, the printer has a built-in Wi-fi module, and it can be run in access point mode or connected to a home wi-fi network.

In the first case, you can connect to the printer and use an additional plug-in in Cura to send files for printing over the air, as well as monitor the status of the printer:

True, the wi-fi module has one minus. It stands inside a metal case, and it dampens the signal very noticeably. If the printer is in the next room, then I can no longer connect to it because the signal level is too weak. In fact, the range of the access point is about 5-6 meters maximum.

But back to the screen. Despite the modern 32-bit processor, another disadvantage that I want to point out is the lack of model previews. This option is already firmly in use, and I would like to hope that it will also appear in future firmware. But so far the interface looks pretty simple. By the way, this is also visible at print time, when progress is displayed simply as a blue bar with a percentage of completion.

But in general, the management here is really convenient. You can change the Z-axis gap on the fly, change the speed of the blower fan and the temperatures of the table and extruder.

Well, I also want to show the inside of the printer without disassembling it. How could I get the camera. The printer is powered by the built-in Mean Well LRS-350-24 power supply. Already by the name it is clear that this power supply produces 24v / 350w.

In the future, I plan to crawl up to this PSU and add a backlight tape to the printer frame so that you can see the printing process.

The brains of the printer are located in the upper part of the case, it is already much more difficult to crawl there with the camera:

But since the board is sold separately, I'll just add a photo from the manufacturer here:

True, in this photo it is not clear which processor is used in the board. But let's hope it's good enough.

In general, if we talk about the assembly, then it did not raise any questions for me. The frame here is well thought out and very rigid. All axles run smoothly and there is no backlash. The printer is large, solid and heavy. And gravity, as we know from the words of Boris Razor, is good and reliable.

Now it's time to talk about the printing process and the models I have printed

The first thing I decided to do was check the speed characteristics of the printer. The specifications indicate that its maximum speed reaches 150mm / s. Therefore, I printed a test cube at this speed:

I shot with a macro lens so that the flaws in the layers were immediately visible. And they are here, since my plastic is not the best, besides, it’s also old, taken from the remnants.

Then I printed the same cube, but at a speed of 180mm/s, and put it next to the first cube:

Try to guess from the photo which of these two cubes was printed at what speed.

I'll give you a hint. On faster printing, at 180 mm/s, the plastic from the nozzle no longer has time to come out and lay down evenly, so the layers appear thinner, and there are gaps between the layers.

And yes, on the left it's a cube printed at 180mm/s and on the right it was 150mm/s.

And by the way, this speed is quite suitable for printing rough parts, when you need to determine the degree of fit and size, without regard to quality. This saves a lot of printing time.

Well, at a speed of 150mm / s, you can already print full-fledged models. Here, for example, I printed a model at this speed:

And this is not a draft part, but a full-fledged one, for a commercial order. Here is what I printed, the size of this medal is 22 centimeters:

If you look at macro photography, you can evaluate both the detail and the level of stacking layers at this print speed:

By the way, as you can see, the medal was printed in two colors of PLA plastic. This type of printing is not difficult, just at a certain moment of printing, you can pause the printer and replace the filament. But I want to add that Cura has a handy plugin that allows you to precisely set the pause on the desired layer. To do this, go to the plugins, and select the “Filament Change” function in the post-processing plugins, in which we simply set the layer on which the pause will occur. The printer will stop printing at the right moment, move its head to the extreme left side in front and squeak loudly, calling for a replacement of the filament:

Through this plug-in, you can set the replacement of the filament at least on each of the layers, which is very convenient and allows you to achieve interesting effects when printing art objects. I hope my advice will be useful to those who are fond of 3D printing.

I also printed an axolotl toy for children, which consists of closed links:

Printing was done at a speed of 120mm / s, and could have been more successful if I had not forgotten to remove the automatic supports in Cura. But since there were supports, I had to spend time post-processing and separating the supports, as well as cleaning up excess plastic in the links. This is what this axolotl looks like on a macro shot:

Layer height 0.25mm, travel speed 120mm/s, table temperature 60 degrees, extruder temperature 220 degrees.

The next model was among the models on the flash drive provided with the printer, this is a ghost keychain.

By the way, I want to add a macro photo of the substrate that remained after printing, so that you can evaluate the uniformity of laying layers and tracks:

a piece of ordinary sponge to clean the plastic from dust, which is very visible on white parts. Some print different boxes and cases, but I just took a piece of dish sponge and pierced it with a filament, which I then moved on. After that, the parts became noticeably cleaner.

Another custom-printed detail. Steering shaft bushings for Nissan Qashkai. Designed to eliminate the runout between the shaft and the tube in the steering reach adjustment mechanism:

Another model. Decepticon logo overlay for standard Mazda car logo:

Spinner gear. A toy that I printed to test the possibility of printing gears:

Stand legs for Sony PlayStation 4 Slim:

Well, there were many other models that were printed to order, but I did not have time to take high-quality photos. I mainly use PLA and Petg plastics when printing. Well, a little ABS, which I really dislike because of its capriciousness to ambient temperature and drafts. And as you can see from the photo, there are no problems with printing. The only problem I've encountered is changing different types of plastic during printing and clogging the nozzle as a result. But it's my own fault, I shouldn't have experimented.

Conclusion:

As you can see from the review, I really liked the Kywoo3D Tycoon Max 3D printer. It is definitely worth the money, here it is clear that the manufacturer did not save on everything and everyone, as is the case with other manufacturers. I will try to indicate the advantages that the buyer receives:

Reliable design and rigid frame . A double profile and a metal frame are assembled into a single design that is reliable and does not give any backlash. This has a positive effect on detail and print quality, as well as on the maximum print speeds. Also, all cables and wires are correctly laid in the printer immediately from the factory. And the heating table is attached through the XT60 connector, which has long proven its reliability.

Shafts along the axes Z and X. The presence of shafts and plain bearings also has a positive effect on the accuracy of printing and the reliability of the design as a whole. Since they are less subject to wear and play, unlike wheels that drive along a profile.

Axis rail Y . The advantage of rails over conventional wheels, I think, is not even worth discussing. This is a more accurate movement of the extruder, and the absence of backlash, and durability. Of course, it would be better to have rails on all axes, but this will significantly increase the price of the printer, and it will no longer be so interesting.

Convenient filament threading with scroll knob . Here I will attribute this not only to pluses, but directly to huge pluses. Such a trifle like, but very much affects the work with the printer, especially if you print a lot and often change the filament.

Short feed extruder MK10 . Allows you to safely print any type of filament, including flex. In addition, unlike Bowden, plastic is saved here. The retract works more adequately. In general, I personally prefer Direct extruders, although I have a printer with a bowden system.

Availability Wi- fi module. Let it be weak, and not everyone needs it. But for some it will be very useful and necessary.

Axis motor synchronization Z . Another little thing that many manufacturers neglect. Meanwhile, this little thing affects the accuracy of printing. And many people customize their printers by adding a Z-axis belt.

Auto level. The printer builds a table map using 36 points and then takes into account any irregularities during printing. Which is very good for the adhesion of the base layer. Well, of course, there are no dances around the printer with a leaflet for an exact fit. To be honest, this process is what I dislike the most during printing.

Print area 300*300*230mm. With such dimensions of the printed area, you can print a much larger number of details than with the usual 220 * 220mm in most models. True, as a minus, the dimensions of the printer themselves are already acting here. Under it, you need to prepare a surface with dimensions of 62 * 62 centimeters, and not every table is suitable here.

But to be honest, I did not find any minuses for the printer. Well, except perhaps the dimensions and the weak signal of the Wi-fi module. But I already wrote about this above. Well, perhaps the relatively simple firmware can be attributed to the minuses, although it does not affect the print quality, it's just an interface.

Kywoo3D Tycoon Max is currently my main 3D printer, on which I print most models. For yourself and to order. Print field 300 * 300 * 230mm allows you to print large enough parts or batches of parts, which suits me completely. I also liked the robust, well-thought-out and monolithic design of the printer, as well as the speed of its operation. As for working on wi-fi, this did not take root for me. At first I dabbled in sending and monitoring, and then, out of habit, I returned to the flash drive and card reader again. In terms of noise, the printer does not raise any complaints, it is the same as most FDM printers. Mostly you can only hear the fans. I also cannot fail to note the most convenient type of filling the filament with the help of a lamb, in my opinion, this bribed me very much.

Well, as it became clear from the review, I can safely recommend this printer for purchase, especially since its price is quite affordable, and frankly, for its price of $280, I cannot find a single competitor for this model. If you like the printer and want to buy it, you can use the promotional code KY3D06 when ordering, which will give an additional discount. And these printers are in stock in the Russian Federation, so delivery will be fast.

Current price for 3D printer Kywoo3D Tycoon Max

I didn't expect this 3D printer Vector 200

Hello everyone!

Today I will tell you about my new acquisition, Vector 200 from Geralkom . I'll tell you about its characteristics, strengths and weaknesses. And I will also share my impressions of using the printer.

By its name, you can already understand that 200 is the size of the working area of the table 200 by 200 mm. And along the Z axis, the working field is 210mm. I am one of those people who find it easier to glue a model from several pieces. Than overpaying a lot of money for a printer with a large table. To print something more once a year. Over the many years of my life with a 3D printer, my experience has shown that a 200x200mm table is enough for home printing and small businesses.

But let me start from the beginning. It all started with my friend knowing how much I dislike dark and gloomy printers. Pleased me with the news that a white printer appeared on the market.

I became interested and started looking for information about him. And since the model was fresh, there was very little information. I just found out the kinematics of his H-bot extruder Direct and he is white. According to this information, not everything was clear and I wanted to fix it. Then I started asking the manufacturer to give me a printer for review. It lasted about three months, and finally the day came when I went for the printer.

First look, equipment and appearance.

I won't talk about the configuration for a long time. While I am writing an article, the manufacturer is still looking for the ideal price and kit option. This may change in the future. I had the kit as pictured. Only another spool of PLA plastic 0.75 kg.

At the expense of appearance. They say it's all a matter of taste. And the taste and color of all felt-tip pens are different. So it's up to you to decide whether you like it or not. I really like it. Having brought it home and on the very first day I filled the TPU coil from FDplast (who does not know this is one of the most flexible rubber-like filaments in Russia). And about a miracle! From the box. Without any settings. On the profile from the manufacturer, I got a very high quality print. Airflow was broken on my old printer. And I have decently accumulated projects that needed airflow. And then it began! For a month, almost day and night, the printer worked without stopping the nozzle.

One simple moment can probably explain such an unbridled thirst for printing. To print something, it was enough just to change the temperature for the plastic and turn the blower on or off. Instead of digging through a pile of settings with the hope that it will be better than last time.

Here are some of the things that were printed with this printer.

Well, it would probably be logical to show you closer. What pleased me the most. So this is a flat surface with a minimum number of artifacts. To be honest, this is the first time in my life that I have such print quality. If the plastic is not damp and dumb, then the details are of amazing quality. I even almost stopped using my grinder. Pay attention to the seam that forms at the beginning of the layer. With bowden, I had big problems with this seam.

And this picture clearly shows the difference between the printed parts on the Vector and on the Flying Bear. I used the same plastic and temperature conditions. (Not a big deviation). Last year I lived with a Bowden printer and despite the fact that the printer is good, the Bowden feed just killed me. That will loosen the tube due to which under-extrusion at the beginning of the layer. Then you have to put such retracts that the motor on the extruder goes crazy. And the advantage of a light head is negated. You try to print in flex and it's not that it doesn't print. But there are so many nuances and torments that I vowed to convert all my bowdens to direct and forget about these torments).

That's why the direct printer out of the box was like a breath of fresh air for me.

These were not all the details. Many immediately went to my friends and I did not have time to photograph them. But there was one very large project, which I took some pictures of.

A friend modeled a rider with a horse on an iPad and it was almost 40 cm long. Because of this, the whole model was cut into 13 pieces and printed with a layer height of 0.15mm. And small details in general with a layer height of 0.05mm. There were two such riders. And it took me a week and a half, almost around the clock printing. All parts of the horse were printed from ABS plastic. And on the example of the tail, it is very clearly seen that despite the ABS and the small area of \u200b\u200bcontact with the table, the tail did not fall. And all this thanks to the precise feed of the direct extruder. I couldn't print like that on a bowden. The nozzle constantly clung to some bumps and influxes of plastic. Which led to knocking down fine details. In this photo, the infill was being printed at 80mm per second. You can judge the quality yourself.

After I printed two horses, the author of the model glued all the parts (I want to note that he had never encountered printing before and did everything for the first time). Then I applied a thin layer of epoxy and walked a little with fine sandpaper. I first applied a layer of black primer. And then covered it with paint that tries to look like bronze. The result of all these manipulations, you can enjoy in the picture below. that after the purchase I did not set up anything and did not finish it with a high-precision file. The result made me happy.

Useful printer features.
1. The printer comes with an auto-off module from the box. This is an important option. Since in the event of some kind of breakdown, the printer will turn itself off and prevent fire, self-destruction or something else :). An auto-off bonus is a button on the front panel. With it, it is very convenient to turn the printer on and off. Especially when he stands close to the wall, you need to squeeze your hand and look for the button by touch. Believe me, I know what I'm talking about.
2. It has a competent backlight that does not hit the eyes and illuminates the model well. This is one of the very useful things that everyone usually completes themselves. But here everything goes factory and we can only enjoy life.
3. My favorite trick that not everyone understood. So it's not a bug, but a feature. The spool holder is inside the printer and only holds a 750g spool. But what if we have a kilogram? With a slight movement of the hand, open the lid, which is held on neodymium magnets and turn it over. Voila, we can fit any kilogram coil. I was also pleased with the fastening not from the back, but from the side. ( I hate rear mounting ) But if you decide to earn money and print a lot with this printer, then holes are provided on the back wall for attaching a 2.5kg coil. In general, thought out for all occasions.
4. The printer is fully enclosed and ready to print out of the box. Plastics such as ABS, Nylon and so on. And since I print ABS in 95%, I accordingly paid attention to this not least.
5. Well, then there are many little things that I will write in one paragraph.
- All coolers come with bearings.
- Head wires are connected via adapter plate. Thanks to this, you can quickly change the heater, thermistor or fans.
- The cable channel is not simple, but tricky. With the ability to snap off the segments and lay new wires with a slight movement of the hand. A trifle, but nice.
- Table for 220v and it is grounded.
- Good two-way airflow for the model. My life tests showed excellent results on PLA plastic.
- This is my first experience with the H-Bot kinematics and I had concerns about the long belt before. Like, it can stretch and affect the print. Fears were not confirmed. It turned out that Hiwin rails are a very good solution. And you do not need to change bearings every half a year. As it happens on roller printers.
- I don't even know if it makes sense to say that HIWIN's accurate MGN-9 rails are not cheap. Which directly affects the quality and life of the printer. I am very glad that the manufacturer stopped on them.
- There are very few printed parts in the printer, but enough milled aluminum parts. Which adds another plus sign to karma.
- Optical end switches that do not click.
- Complete USB stick. And what a flash drive! Which does not stick out of the body.
- Proven power supply from the Taiwanese company MEAN WELL for 24 volts.
- By default there is a thermistor, which works up to 300 degrees. Optionally, you can install another one that works up to 350 degrees. As a matter of fact, I have one. Therefore, there will be more interesting videos with tests of high-temperature plastics. Don't forget to subscribe to .
- Branded motors Stepperonline.
- Motherboard Robin nano v3 with quiet drivers on all TMC2209 motors.
It may seem that my sugary review is paid. And everything that I wrote here is presented through the prism of that mountain of money that was brought to me. But let's immediately dot the "I"! (Although I still don’t understand where her dots are, I’ll still clarify the situation).

I took this printer for review on my own initiative. After a week spent alone with the printer, I realized that I would not return it. Therefore, I added the manufacturer to the black list and use the printer with pleasure! :D It's a joke, I just bought the printer from Geralcom and my fee for the review was a discount on the purchase.

Therefore, everything that I wrote above and will write below is my personal experience and my impressions. I really liked the printer and for two months of everyday work with it. I have not had a single skipped step or aborted prints due to the printer. (Well, I can't really blame the printer for the overlap on the spool)

So my conclusion is this. The printer is very hardworking, stable and problem-free. Who does not want to deal with finishing and alterations, but buys for work from the box. It's his choice.

I was pleased with many thoughtful things and his appearance.

Shortcomings:

With all my laudatory reviews. The printer has a number of things that I didn't like.
- For all its specifications, the printer is quite noisy. Especially the hot end blower cooler. With the door closed, there is less noise, but probably you won’t be able to sleep in the same room with him. And I have something to compare with and I have slept with the printer in the same room more than once. At what printed ABS. (Here I am such a kamikaze).
- The aluminum plate of the table is only 2mm, which, according to my subjective feelings, is not enough. Sometimes you have to tighten the table at the beginning of printing, as the calibration is a little off. Not often but still. Although, in general, my table is flat and details in the entire area are printed without problems.
- The wires to the fans on the hot end are a little inconvenient. Because of what, when you remove the cover with fans, you need to get used to putting it back. If you do not do this carefully, you can damage the wires.
- I have heard complaints from people who have opened the lid for the first time, which is only held on by magnets.
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3D Printing -The New Age of Printing

Best 3D Printer Candidate 2022 / 3D Printers, Machine Tools & Accessories / iXBT Live

I didn't expect this 3D printer Vector 200

First look, equipment and appearance.

Useful printer features.

Shortcomings:

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