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Chrome plating 3d printed parts
How to chrome plastics
In the world of 3D printing, there is an increasing need to increase the manufacturing possibilities of all types of parts and finishes, to help the evolution of the industry. In this case you will find the chrome plating of parts made with a 3D FDM printer.
The appearance of new materials, such as PC-ABS has revolutionized 3D FDM printing and not only because it is a material with high mechanical properties and resistance to adverse environments, but also because it is one of the most used plastics when it comes to get excellent surface chrome. The chrome plating of plastic parts is used to make decorative or non-functional pieces, which show an identical finish to a chromed metal but much lighter and cheaper.
Image 1: Polymaker PC-ABS printed part. Source: Polymaker
Because of plastics are non-conductive materials of electricity, it is necessary to subject them to a series of operations of high toxicity and difficult control so that they are able to capture the layers of metal that are part of the chromium plating. In order to achieve an ideal, uniform and shiny finish, it is necessary to apply a layer of nickel to the plastic part for shine and a component that ensures the adhesion of copper.
Once the pre-chrome treatment has been carried out, the next step is to remove all types of dirt that may exist on the surface of the piece with organic solvents (ethanol), which also eliminates possible oxides. This step is performed in ultrasonic washers for 5 - 20 minutes to ensure that all areas of the part are completely free of debris. With the piece completely clean, it is placed in a container with chromic acid solution (20 - 30 %) at a temperature of 80 ºC. The contact of the ABS or PC-ABS with this solution causes the reaction of one of the components of these materials, resulting in micropores along the entire surface of the piece, microporesity necessary for the products of the following steps to adhere . The piece is washed again, but this time with distilled water, then it is immersed in a 1 % palladium solution at a temperature of 70 ºC and subsequently dried with hot air blowers, obtaining a conductive piece of electricity.
The next step is to attach the piece to a copper conductor (cathode), through which the current passes and submerge the whole assembly in a copper bath at a temperature of 70 °C. When introducing the activated plastic (conductor of electricity) with palladium, it leaves the microporous surface to allow the copper to enter, producing a thin layer of copper. Once copper is obtained on the surface, it is thickened with a conventional electrolytic bath to increase the resistance of the surface finish. The chromium layer is produced on the second copper layer by electrodeposition in a chromic acid bath. In this way, apart from chroming, nickel, silver, tan, etc., parts made with a 3D FDM printer and filaments containing ABS (ABS or PC-ABS) are achieved.
Image 2: Chrome PC-ABS part. Source: Metal Products Factory
If you need to get a chrome effect on other types of plastics that are not ABS or PC-ABS, or on these but more economically, there is some spray.
With a chrome spray, a finish similar to that of the process explained above can be achieved, but with less brightness and a very low resistance to scratches and bumps.
To obtain the best possible surface result, the user must prepare the surface of the piece until a uniform and smooth finish is achieved, because on the contrary that in the painted finish, the chrome plating shows all the possible imperfections that the piece can have.
From the Filament2print team we recommend that users who wish to metallize (chrome, nickel, silver, etc.) their 3D printed parts, contact a company specialized in the chrome plating of plastic parts, since it is a complex process, tedious and with some danger.
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Add Elegance & Strength to Your 3D Printed Models with Ira3D’s New Chrome Plating - 3DPrint.
comLike the world of 3D printing and innovations that continue to blow our minds, Ira3D is one of those dynamic companies that continue to wow us at each turn. Just when you wonder how much more exciting 3D printing could possibly get—just when you wonder how much more streamlined, how much more user-friendly, and how much more chock full o’ features we can possibly handle—they switch it up completely and offer us an easy way to coat our 3D prints in chrome. This is going to excite a large volume of users, looking forward not just to finishing their models with a unique touch, but also just greedily enjoying the fun exercise of coating parts and prototypes and seeing how different they look, transformed with shining sophistication.
Short for chromium, chrome is a metal finish that hobbyists find enticing for many different items. It can be used to protect items, preventing models from rusting and abrasion, as well as offering a much different way to show off your designs aesthetically.
Ira3D, a company we follow often, saw a more formal need to allow for a chromium coating as the 3D printing industry has evolved. They see it allowing for a much greater artistic element as well as offering an inimitable and elegant quality that can be very important in the design arena.
Being able to offer a specialized process like this is the reward of intense research and development for all of the technology stemming from Ira3D, headquartered in Italy. This young startup, just founded in 2014, has certainly unfolded a volume of quality 3D printing solutions in just the last two years. With a continuous investment in research, they are committed to producing products that are often specialized, meeting the needs of niche markets.
“The rigorous planning of the production cycle reduces the time, waste and cost for maximum competitiveness on domestic and foreign markets,” states the Ira3D team. “This process is delicate and complex, but useful for companies that want to chromium-plate objects created with 3D printers.
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Having a new option for coating and finishing products allows for much more expanded realm in terms of marketing items whether you are engaged in manufacturing or art. Being able to coat and preserve parts in chrome plating should also be very desirable in sectors like the automotive industry. Ira3D sees their users as being able to bring their concepts and visions to fruition more quickly, being able to offer improvement and strength to designs with more choice—and greater impact.
Currently, Ira3D is a manufacturer with a presence in 26 markets. They see this new electroplating method as a technology that will span numerous industries. This should indeed be an exciting new option for many to try, and is just one more great feature coming from Ira3D who has really been pumping out the solutions this year from their new Poetry X Center, offering an all-in-one R&D package, to an all-in-one manufacturing solution, offering comprehensive 3D printing tools for businesses, as well as a host of specialized new filaments—all with the ‘made in Italy’ stamp upon them, promising specialized products with quality—and always, aesthetics.
To find about more about the chrome process and this company in general, visit Ira3D. Have you been thinking about working in chrome? Discuss in the Coating 3D Prints with Chrome forum over at 3DPB.com.
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Tagged with: 3D model finishes • 3d model finishing • 3D print finishes • 3d print finishing • 3D printed chrome • chrome • chromium plating for 3D prints • coating • coatings for 3D prints • finishing 3D prints • ira3d • italy
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Post-processing of 3D printed parts (PLA, ABS, SBS, PETG)
Table of contents
- Removal of supports
- Remove Soluble Supports
- Sanding
- Cold welding
- Filling voids
- Polishing
- Priming and painting
- Pair smoothing
- Epoxy coating
- Metallization
Introduction
FDM technology is best suited for fast, low-budget prototyping.
Layer lines are usually visible in FDM prints, so post-processing is essential if a smooth surface is to be achieved. Some post-processing techniques can also make a print more durable by changing the degree of its elastic properties, density, structural and textural features.
In this article, we will discuss the most common post-processing techniques in FDM.
Post-processed FDM prints (left to right): cold welded, void filled, raw, sanded, polished, painted and epoxy coated. Photo 3dhubs.com
Removing supports
Removing supports is usually the first step in post-processing for any 3D printing technology that uses them. In general, props can be divided into two categories: standard and soluble. Unlike other post-processing methods discussed in this article, the removal of props is mandatory and does not result in improved surface quality.
Initial printout with props, poor prop removal, good prop removal. photo 3dhubs.
com
Removal of standard props
Tools
- Wire cutters, needle nose pliers, tongs
- Toothbrush, brush
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| Suitable for | all thermoplastics FDM |
Process
Normally, backups come off the printout without problems, and hard-to-reach places (such as holes or cavities) can be cleaned of backup material with an old toothbrush. Proper placement of support structures and correct print orientation can significantly reduce the negative impact of supports on how the final printout will look.
Pros
- Does not change the overall geometry of the part.
- The process is very fast.
Cons
- Does not remove layer lines, scratches or other surface defects.
- If excess material or marks remain from the support structure, print accuracy and appearance suffer.
Dissolvable Support Removal
Instrumentation
- Solvent resistant container
- Thinner
- Ultrasonic cleaner (optional)
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| Suitable for | all thermoplastics FDM |
Process
Soluble support standard materials are removed from the printout by immersing it in a reservoir of the appropriate solvent.
Supports are usually printed:
- HIPS (usually with ABS)
- PVA (usually with PLA)
A glass container like a preservation jar is fine. Any non-porous vessel is suitable for water treatment. To quickly remove props from HIPS/ABS printouts, you will need a solution of equal parts D-limonene and isopropyl alcohol. Many other support structure materials such as PVA (with PLA) dissolve in normal water.
Pro Tips
Use an ultrasonic cleaner to shorten the solution time and change the solvent as it becomes saturated. A warm (not hot) solution works faster - heating is useful if there is no cleaner.
Pluses
- Complex geometry is allowed for which the standard method of removing props is not possible.
- Smooth surface at the support points.
Cons
- Improper dissolution of the props can cause discoloration and skewed printouts.
- Does not remove layer lines, scratches or other surface imperfections.
- May cause small holes or holes if soluble material seeps into the object during printing.
Cleaning with a skin
SHIP SHIC ABS ABS ABS PROBECTION
Instrumentation
- EVERTICAL PREASE with grain
for 150, 220, 400, 600, 1000 and 2000 66666 - Cleaning cloth
- Toothbrush
- Soap
- Face mask
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| Suitable for | all thermoplastics FDM |
Process
Once the props have been removed or dissolved, sanding can be done to smooth the part and remove any obvious imperfections such as smudges or prop marks.
Which sandpaper to start with depends on the thickness of the layer and the quality of the print: for layers of 200 microns or less, or for prints without blotches, you can start with sandpaper at P150. If there are blobs visible to the naked eye, or the object is printed with a layer thickness of 300 microns or more, stripping should begin with P100.
The process can be continued up to P2000 grit (one approach is to go to 220, then 400, 600, 1000 and finally 2000). Wet sanding is recommended from the very beginning to the very end - this will avoid excessive friction, which can lead to an increase in temperature and damage the object, as well as contaminate the sandpaper itself. Between sanding, the printout should be cleaned with a toothbrush and washed with soapy water, then wiped with a cloth to remove dust and prevent it from sticking together. Even P5000 can be sanded to achieve a smooth, shiny FDM part.
Pro Tricks
Always sand in small circular motions - evenly over the entire surface of the part.
It may be tempting to sand perpendicular to the layers, or even parallel, but this can lead to gouges. If the part is discolored or has a lot of scratches after sanding, it can be heated a little to soften the surface and allow some defects to smooth out.
Pros
- An exceptionally smooth surface is obtained.
- Further post-processing (painting, polishing, smoothing and epoxy coating) is greatly facilitated.
Cons
- Not recommended for double or single shell parts as sanding may damage the printout.
- The process is difficult in the case of sophisticated surfaces and the presence of small details in the object.
- If the grinding is done too aggressively and too much material is removed, the appearance of the part may be affected. Acetone for ABS. Dichloromethane for PLA, ABS
- Sponge Applicator
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| Suitable for | all thermoplastics FDM |
Process
If the object is larger than the printer capacity, the object is printed in parts and then assembled.
In the case of PLA and some other materials, assembly can be done with Dichloromethane or a suitable adhesive (the choice of adhesive depends on the plastic). In the case of ABS, it is possible to "weld" with acetone. The mating surfaces should be slightly moistened with acetone and squeezed tightly or clamped and held until most of the acetone has evaporated. So the parts will be held together by chemical bonds.
Pro Tricks
Increasing the surface area of the acetone contact increases bond strength. Tongue-and-groove to help.
Pros
- Acetone does not change surface color as much as most adhesives.
- After drying, the compound acquires the properties of ABS, which makes further processing easier and more uniform.
Cons
- The bonding of ABS parts by cold "welding" with acetone is not as strong as if the part were printed as a whole.
- Excessive use of acetone can dissolve the part and affect final appearance and tolerances.
Void Fill
Black ABS Print, Filled and Sanded
Tool Kit
- Epoxy (for small voids only)
- Automotive body filler (for large voids and joints)
- ABS filament and acetone (only for small voids in ABS printouts)
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| Suitable for | all thermoplastics FDM |
Process
Unusual voids may come out after the part has been ground or dissolved. These voids are formed during printing when the layers are incomplete due to any restrictions on the trajectory of the print head, which is often inevitable.
Small gaps and voids can be easily filled with epoxy and no additional treatment is required in this case. Larger gaps or voids left by assembling a multi-part object can be filled with automotive bodywork filler, but the printout will then need to be re-sanded. Putty works great, is easy to process with sandpaper and can be painted. Moreover, the parts connected by such a filler, or voids filled with it, turn out to be stronger than the original plastic.
Cracks in ABS printouts can also be filled with ABS thinned with acetone, which reacts chemically with the ABS object and seeps into existing voids. It is recommended to make such a putty from 1 part ABS and 2 parts acetone, then it will not spoil the surface if used correctly.
Dichloromethane works on all plastics: ABS, PLA, HIPS, SBS, etc.
Epoxy is also useful if you want to make your 3D printed part more durable
Pros
- Epoxy filler is easy to sand and prime, resulting in an excellent surface for painting.
- An ABS solution of the same filament will give the same color so nothing will be visible on the surface.
Cons
- Auto body filler or other polyester epoxy adhesive is opaque when dry and will leave discolored areas on the printout.
- Additional processing required to achieve a uniform surface.
- If the grinding is done too aggressively and too much material is removed, the appearance of the part may be affected.
Polished
PLA model, polished. Photo rigid.ink
Tools
- Plastic Polishing Compound
- Sandpaper for P2000
- Cleaning cloth
- Toothbrush
- Polishing pad or microfiber cloth
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| Suitable for | all thermoplastics FDM |
Process
Once the part has been cleaned, a plastic polish can be applied to the part to give a standard ABS or PLA object a mirror finish.
After the part has been sanded for 2000, it is necessary to remove dust from the printout with a cloth and rinse the printout under warm water using a toothbrush. When the object is completely dry, buff it on a buffing pad or microfiber cloth, adding a polishing compound as you go, such as polishing jewelry. They are designed specifically for plastics and synthetics and give a long-lasting shine. Other plastic polishes, such as those used to polish car headlights, also work well, but some of them contain chemicals that can damage the printout.
Pro Tricks
To polish small parts, place the polishing wheel on your Dremel (or other rotary tool such as a power drill). For larger and stronger parts, you can use a grinder, just make sure that the part does not stay in one place for too long, otherwise the plastic may melt from friction.
Pros
- The part is polished without solvents that can warp it or change its tolerances.
- When cleaned and polished correctly, a mirror-smooth surface is obtained, very similar to cast.
- Polishing and deburring plastics is extremely economical, making this a very cost-effective method of achieving a quality finish.
Cons
- If you want to achieve a mirror-smooth surface, the part must be carefully ground before polishing, which may affect tolerances.
- After polishing, the primer or paint no longer sticks.
Primer and paint
Gray PLA FDM print spray painted black. 3dhubs.com
Tools
- Cleaning cloth
- Toothbrush
- 150, 220, 400 and 600 grit sandpaper
- Aerosol primer for plastics
- Finish paint
- Polishing sticks
- Polishing paper
- Masking tape (only if multiple colors are expected)
- Nitrile gloves and matching face mask
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| Suitable for | all thermoplastics FDM |
Process
Once the printout has been properly sanded (it is enough to reach P600 when painting), it can be primed.
Aerosol plastic primer should be applied in two coats. This primer is intended for subsequent painting of models, provides an even coating and at the same time thin enough not to hide small elements. Thick primer, which is sold in hardware stores, can clump, and then you have to seriously work with sandpaper. Apply the first spray coat with short pressures from a distance of 15-20 cm from the object, trying to do it evenly. Let the primer dry and smooth out the unevenness with 600 grit sandpaper. Apply a second coat of spray with light, quick pressures, also very gently and evenly.
When the priming is completed, you can start painting. You can paint with artistic acrylic paints and brushes, but a spray gun will provide a smoother surface. Hardware store spray paints are thick and viscous and difficult to control, so use paints that are designed specifically for modeling. The primed surface must be sanded and polished (sanding and polishing sticks, which are used in nail salons, can be purchased online, they are great for our task), and then wiped with a cloth.
The paint should be applied to the model in very thin layers, the first layers should be transparent. When the paint finish becomes opaque (usually 2-4 coats), let the model rest for 30 minutes to allow the paint to dry completely. Carefully polish the paint layer with manicure sticks, repeat the procedure for each of the colors (between each applied paint).
Separate parts of the model can be covered with masking tape so that the colors, if there are several, do not mix. When painting is complete, remove the masking tape and polish the object with polishing paper. Polishing paper, such as 3M or Zona, comes in a variety of grits and is a relatively new product. It is sold in packs in various online stores, and after processing with this paper, the ink layer or topcoat will literally shine - and nothing else can achieve this effect. Apply 1-2 coats of top coat to protect the paint and let it dry completely. The top coat is selected in accordance with the recommendations of the paint manufacturer.
If the topcoat and paint are incompatible, it can render your entire painting job meaningless, so compatibility is very important here.
Pro Tips
Don't shake the can when spraying! It is important not to mix the pigment or primer with the propellant (propellant gas), which will cause bubbles to form in the spray. Instead, the can must be rotated for 2-3 minutes so that the mixing ball rolls like a pearl, and does not strum.
Pros
- Excellent result, if you take into account all the nuances of the process and practice.
- You can do anything with the final look of the object, no matter what material it is printed on.
Cons
- Primer and paint increase the volume of the model, which affects the tolerances and can be a problem when it comes to a part of a larger object.
- High quality aerosol paint or spray gun increases costs.
Vapor smoothed
Vapor smoothed black hemisphere, ABS printed
Tools
- Cleaning cloth
- Solvent resistant sealed container
- Thinner
- Paper towels
- Aluminum foil (or other solvent resistant material)
- Face mask and chemical resistant gloves
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| Suitable for | all thermoplastics FDM |
Process
Line the bottom of the container with paper towels, if possible along the sides.
It is critical that the vapors cannot damage the container and that the container itself is sealed. It is recommended to use a glass or metal container. Apply enough thinner to the paper towels so that they are wet but not soaked - this will also help them adhere better to the walls. Acetone is famous for its ability to smooth out ABS. PLA can be smoothed with a variety of other solvents (dichloromethane works well), but this plastic tends to be much harder to smooth than ABS. When working with any solvents, please follow the safety precautions for handling chemicals and always take appropriate precautions. Place a small "raft" of aluminum foil or other solvent-resistant material in the center of the paper towel-lined container. Place the printout on the "raft" (either side of your choice) and close the lid of the container. Steam polishing can take varying amounts of time, so check your printout periodically. To increase the speed of polishing, the container can be heated, but this must be done carefully so as not to cause an explosion.
When removing the printout from the container, try not to touch it in any way, leave it on the “raft”, take them out together. In all those places where the printout has come into contact with something, there will be defects, since the outer layer will be under-dissolved. Before working with it, let the printout completely “breathe” so that all solvent vapors have evaporated.
Many aerosols and/or solvent sprays are flammable or explosive and their vapors can be harmful to humans. Be extremely careful when heating solvents, always handle them and store them in a well ventilated area.
Pros
- Many small blotches, as well as many layer lines, are smoothed out without additional processing.
- The printout surface becomes exceptionally smooth.
- The procedure is very fast and can be done using commonly available materials.
Cons
- Doesn't "heal" gaps, doesn't completely hide layer lines.
- During the smoothing process, the outer layer of the printout dissolves, which greatly affects the tolerances.
- Negatively affects the strength of the printout due to changes in the properties of its material.
Immersion
PLA model immersed in dichloromethane. Photo 3dpt.ru
Tools
- Solvent resistant container
- Thinner
- Eye hook or cog
- Large wire for sculpture or landscaping
- Dryer or drying frame
- Face mask and chemical resistant gloves
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| Suitable for | all thermoplastics FDM |
Process
Make sure the container you are using is wide and deep enough to completely submerge the printout in the solution.
Fill the container with the appropriate amount of solvent - be careful not to splash. As with vapor smoothing, ABS dip smoothing can be done with acetone, which is easy to find in the store, and for PLA, dichloromethane can also work well with ABS, HIPS, SBS, PETG, and many other materials. PLA is quite resistant to solvent smoothing, so it may take several passes to achieve the desired result. Prepare the printout for dipping by screwing a hook or eye screw into it in an inconspicuous place. Pass the wire through the eyelet or wrap the wire around the screw so that the printout can be immersed in the solvent. If the wire is too thin, it will not be able to withstand the buoyant force on the printout, and it will be difficult to sink the object.
Once the printout is ready, use a wire to completely immerse it in the solvent for a few seconds. Remove the printout and hang it by the wire in a dryer or on a drying frame to allow the solvent to completely evaporate from the surface.
After ejection, the printout can be gently shaken to facilitate the drying process and ensure that no solvent has accumulated in the depressions.
Pro Tricks
If an opaque whitish coating appears on the printout after drying, this can be corrected by holding the object over a solvent bath for a while so that its vapor slightly dissolves the surface. This restores the original color of the printout and achieves a shiny outer layer.
Pros
- The surface of the print is smoothed much faster than steam polishing.
- Significantly less fumes are generated than other solvent polishing methods, so this method is less hazardous.
Cons
- The surface is smoothed very aggressively, so you can forget about tolerances.
- Immersion for too long can result in complete deformation of the object and a significant change in material properties.
Epoxy
Black ABS printout, half epoxy coated, half uncoated
Tools
- two-component epoxy06
- Sponge Applicator
- Mixing container
- Sandpaper P1000 or finer
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| Suitable for | all thermoplastics FDM |
Process
After the printout has been cleaned (preliminary cleaning gives the best end result), wipe it thoroughly with a cloth.
Mix the resin and hardener in the proportion indicated in the instructions, accurately measuring all volumes. The curing process of epoxy resin is exothermic, so glass containers and containers made of materials with a low melting point should be avoided. It is recommended to use containers that are specifically designed for mixing epoxy resins. Incorrect ratio of resin and hardener can result in longer curing time or no curing at all and result in a permanently sticky substance. Mix the resin and thinner as directed in the instructions - carefully, in smooth movements to minimize the amount of air bubbles remaining inside the mixture. Very little epoxy is needed, and most of these resins only work for 10-15 minutes, so plan accordingly.
Use the sponge applicator to apply the first coat of epoxy, being careful not to build up in crevices and small parts. When the printout is sufficiently coated, allow the resin to fully cure - as described in the instructions that came with it.
One coat may be sufficient, but for optimum results it is best to lightly sand the printout with fine sandpaper (on P1000 and above) to eliminate any imperfections. Wipe off the dust with a cloth and, in the same way as before, apply a second layer of epoxy.
Pros
- A very thin coat of epoxy won't affect tolerance too much (unless the printout has been sanded too hard first).
- A protective shell is formed around the object.
Cons
- The layer lines will remain visible, they will only be covered by a smooth shell.
- If too much epoxy is used, it can flood parts and edges, and the surface can appear greasy.
Plating
FDM-printed structural element nickel-plated with Repliform RepliKote
Tools (for home use)
9
- Sacrificial anode. The anode material must match the metal of the solution: for example, if copper sulfate is used in the solution (with water it is copper sulfate), then the anode must also be copper. Any object made of the appropriate metal will do (for example, copper wire for copper plating), or you can buy special strips of metal for galvanization.
- Conductive paint or acetone with graphite. For galvanization, the surface of the printout must be electrically conductive, and this can be achieved with a conductive paint or a solution of equal parts graphite and acetone. Conductive paint will work with any material, but acetone with graphite will only work with ABS.
- Power rectifier. A simple battery can be used as this element, only it will not be as efficient and will not give a fast enough result than the rectifier itself (household current).
The rectifier is safer in the sense that it can simply be turned off and thus cut off the current during the galvanization process. - Conductive screw or eye hook
- Non-conductive container
- Contacts
- Non-conductive gloves and goggles. Electroplating solutions are acidic and can cause injury if splashed into the eyes, so wearing glasses is very important. Solutions also irritate the skin and conduct electricity, so insulating gloves are needed.
- The metallized shell increases the strength of plastic printouts, which greatly expands the scope of their applications.
- Properly galvanized, the metal coating is very thin so that tolerances are generally maintained.
- The surface (again, if everything was done correctly) turns out great, no one will think that the object is printed on a 3D printer.
- In general, it is very expensive to get a professional result. Professional electroplating at home requires a fair amount of equipment.
- Electroplating at home can result in personal injury if safety precautions are not followed.
- Post-processing of FDM parts
- Remove supports
- Removal of soluble supports when printing with a 3D printer with two extruders
- Sanding plastic 3D printed products
- Application of Acetone in ABS plastic processing
- Filling irregularities in ABS plastics
- Polishing ABS/PLA
- Priming and painting 3D printed products
- Acetone baths for ABS products
- Chemical solvent baths
- Using epoxy to finish prints
- gap filling
- raw
- sanded
- polished
- painted
- epoxy coated
- Pliers
- Set with small tools (eg watchmaker's set).
- The overall geometry of the part does not change
- Fast on time
- Does not remove visible layer lines, streaks or smudges on print surface
- If support structures leave excess material or marks behind, the accuracy and appearance of the part will be reduced
- Solvent safe container
- Thinner
- Ultrasonic cleaner (optional)
- HIPS (in conjunction with ABS )
- PVA (in conjunction with PLA )
- Great for complex geometries where standard support removal would be impossible without damaging the base model.
- The result is a smooth surface where the support structure is in contact with the base piece.
- Improper dissolution of the material can lead to discoloration and deformation of the entire part.
- Does not remove visible layer lines, streaks or spots on part surface
- May cause small spots or holes in the final print if soluble material gets on the object during printing
-
- Sandpaper up to 1000
- Rags
- Toothbrush
- Soap
- Face mask
- With this method you get an extremely smooth surface
- This method facilitates additional post-processing (such as painting, polishing, or epoxy coating)
- Not recommended for thin wall prints as this may damage part
- Difficult for surfaces with difficult geometries and fine details
- May affect overall print accuracy if sanding is too aggressive and too much material is removed
- Acetone
- Cotton buds or brush
- Acetone will not discolor the part surface like other adhesives
- After drying, the seam will exhibit ABS properties, making further processing easier and more uniform
- The bond formed by this cold welding is not as strong as a solid impression
- Excessive use of acetone can lead to aggressive dissolution of the part and adversely affect the final result and tolerances
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- Epoxy (for small voids only)
- Automotive Putty (large voids and joints)
- ABS plastic and acetone (for small voids only and for ABS parts only)
- Epoxies are easy to sand and prime, making the surface easy to paint
- ABS juice will be the same color as your part, as long as you use the same filament by color and manufacturer. Therefore, there will be no discoloration of the surface
- Auto putty or other polyester epoxy will dry opaque resulting in discolored spots on print
- Requires additional sanding to achieve uniform coverage
- May affect overall print accuracy if sanding is too aggressive and too much material is removed
- Polish
- Sandpaper
- Nonwoven wipe
- Toothbrush
- Microfibre cloth or polishing pad
- Polishing is applied without the use of any solvents that can deform the part and change the precision tolerances.
- When properly ground and polished, the part will give the impression of a mirror finish, imitating plastic injection molding
- Plastic polish and cleaner is very economical, making this method quite profitable for a quality finish
- The part must be carefully sanded before polishing if a mirror finish is required. This may affect tolerances
- Primer/paint may not adhere to surface after polishing and you will need additional products
- Non-woven cloth
- Toothbrush
- Sandpaper
- Aerosol Acrylic Primer
- Polishing agents
- Masking tape (only if using multiple colors)
- Gloves and petal mask
- Professional results with attention to detail
- Excellent appearance of the final product, regardless of the material/color in which the object was originally printed
- Paint and primer will increase the volume of the model, which will change the tolerances and can cause problems if the part is part of the assembly
- Buying a high quality spray paint or airbrush is not cheap
- Non-woven cloth
- Sealed container
- Thinner
- Paper towels
- Aluminum foil (or other solvent resistant material)
- Face mask and chemical resistant gloves
- Smooths out many small spots and reduces layer lines present in the print without any additional work
- Creates a very smooth "shell" around part
- A very fast method that can be implemented with improvised means
- Doesn't heal gaps or completely mask layer height
- The dithering process "dissolves" the outer shell of the print, and therefore the tolerances are greatly affected
- Negatively affects print strength due to changes in material properties
- Solvent safe container
- Thinner
- Hook or small screw
- Wire
- Drying rod or stand
- Face mask and chemical resistant gloves
- Print surface smoothes much faster than steam polishing
- Produces much less fumes than other solvent polishing methods and is safer
- Very aggressively smoothes the surface of the part, so the tolerances deviate greatly from the specified
- Immersion too long can lead to complete deformation of the part and a significant change in material properties
- Two-component epoxy (such as XTC-3D)
- Foam applicator
- Brushes
- Mixing container
- Sandpaper 1000 grit or higher
- A very thin coat of epoxy will not significantly affect part tolerances (unless the part has been sanded first)
- Resin provides an outer protective sheath around the part
- Layer lines will still be visible, they are under the "smooth" shell
- Applying too much epoxy can cause surface dripping and over-smoothing of print details
- Plating solution. It can be prepared by mixing a metal salt with acid and water, but if the proportions are not accurate, it will be difficult to get a professional result.
Buying a ready-made solution guarantees that there are no problems with plating. - Sacrificial anode. The anode material must match the metal of the plating solution, so if copper sulfate is used in the solution, then a copper anode should be used. You can use any item made of metal plating (copper wire, for example), or you can purchase a thin strip of metal plating that is made specifically for electroplating.
- Conductive paint or acetone and graphite. The print surface must be conductive for coating, which can be achieved with conductive paint or a 1:1 solution of graphite and acetone. Conductive ink will work on any printed material, but a solution of acetone and graphite will only work on ABS.
- Power Rectifier - A battery can be used instead of a rectifier, but a battery is not as efficient and will not deliver results as quickly and consistently as a rectifier. A rectifier is also a safer option. It can simply be turned off to stop the current flow during electroplating.
- Conductive screw or eyelet
- Non-conductive vessel
- Lead set
- Non-conductive gloves and goggles.
- The metal shell increases the strength of the plastic part, which greatly expands the possibilities of its application and use
- The outer metal coating is very thin so if properly applied, tolerances of 9 can be held tightly0006
- Creates a beautiful surface that, if done correctly, will not look like a 3D printed object
- It is usually very expensive to do this at a professional level, and home plating requires a fair amount of professional processing equipment
- Electroplating at home can cause electric shock if not followed
- A galvanizing solution can be obtained by mixing a metal salt, acid and water, but if the proportions are inaccurate and the substances are of insufficient quality, one cannot count on a professional result.
If you buy a ready-made solution (as in Midas kits), you can be sure that the problems with plating are not caused by the solution. | Finishing | ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆ |
| Approvals | ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆ |
| Speed | ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆ |
| Suitable for | all thermoplastics FDM |
Process
Electroplating can be carried out at home or in a professional workshop.
To do everything right, you need to be well versed in the materials, in what is actually happening - and at home these opportunities are usually limited. In order to achieve excellent surface quality and to have more plating options, including chrome plating, it is best to use the services of professional workshops. The copper galvanization process will be described below as an example.
At home, you can galvanize with copper or nickel, and this coating will then serve as the basis for galvanizing with other metals. It is critically important that the printout surface be as smooth as possible before it is galvanized. Any bumps and lines in the layers will be enhanced as a result of the process. Prepare the sanded and cleaned object for plating by coating the plastic with a thin coat of high quality conductive paint, or with a graphite and acetone solution for ABS printouts. Allow the conductive coating to dry completely, sand if necessary to ensure a smooth surface. At this stage, it is extremely important not to touch the printout with bare hands or to wear gloves, because sweat marks on the object will certainly affect the quality of the galvanization.
Insert a screw or eyelet in an inconspicuous place on the printout and connect it to the negative terminal of the rectifier. This will be the cathode. Connect the copper anode to the positive contact of the rectifier. Fill the container with enough copper plating solution so that the printout is completely covered with it. Immerse the anode in the container and turn on the power. After the rectifier is turned on, immerse the printout in the container, making sure that it does not touch the anode anywhere. Beware! When the object is already in the bath, the galvanization system is active, and contact with the solution, cathode or anode can be traumatic. Set the voltage on the rectifier to 1-3 Volts, and the process will go to full metallization. To speed things up, the voltage can be increased, but not more than 5 volts. When enough metal has deposited on the printout, simply turn off the power and dry the object with microfiber towels. When it's dry, varnish the object to protect it from corrosion.
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Plastic processing for 3D printer. Plastic post-processing after 3D printing ABS, PLA, Nylon, Petg
Contents:
Hello everyone, Friends! With you 3DTool!
With the FDM 3D printer you can quickly and economically produce plastic parts of any geometric shape.
Finished parts show visually the lines of the layers they were printed on, making post-processing an important consideration if a smooth surface is required. Some post-processing techniques can also increase the strength of finished products by helping to reduce their anisotropic properties.
This article will discuss the most common post-processing techniques in FDM 3D printing .
Catalog of FDM 3D printers
Post-processing of FDM parts
This image above (from left to right) shows the post-processed parts FDM :
Remove supports
Support removal is typically the first step in post-processing for any 3D printing technologies if the part requires support for precision manufacturing.
Supports can usually be divided into 2 categories: standard and instant .
Unlike other post-processing methods discussed in this article, support removal is a requirement and does not result in improved surface quality.
Removing supports mechanically is necessary when printing with a 3D printer with a single extruder (for example, PICASO Designer X, Hercules 2018, Zenit, Prusa i3 Steel Bizon) When using 3D printers with two extruders, as a rule, the supporting part of the product is made of special soluble materials.
Catalog of 3D printers with two extruders
Left to right. Original printing with support, poor support removal and quality support removal.
Tools and materials you will need for this job:
Support Removal Process: The support material can usually be removed from the finished model without much effort.
Cleaning of the substrate material in hard-to-reach places (for example, in holes) can be done using an awl and pliers. Properly positioned support structures and proper print orientation can greatly reduce the impact of the support material on the aesthetics of the final result.
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Removal of soluble supports when printing with a 3D printer with two extruders
As we said earlier, the removal of supports printed from soluble materials is done differently than manually, mechanically, so the use of 2 or more extruder printers is preferable. (e.g. PICASO Designer X PRO, Raise3D PRO2)
Catalog of 3D printers with two extruders
Tools and supplies you will need for this job:
Process : the final model is placed in a bath with the appropriate solvent (for example, for PVA plastic it will be ordinary water, for material HIPS it will be D-limonene ) until the support material dissolves.
Support is usually printed with:
Glass storage containers such as jars are excellent receptacles for diluting limonene. For dissolution in water, any non-porous container will do. For prints using HIPS/ABS bath with a 1:1 ratio of limonene to isopropyl alcohol works very well for quick support removal. Many other auxiliary materials such as PVA (used with PLA ) are water soluble.
Helpful Hint: Speed up the dissolution time of the support material by using an ultrasonic bath and changing the solution as soon as it becomes saturated with plastic dissolved in itself. Using a warm (not hot) solvent will also speed up the dissolution time if you don't have an ultrasonic cleaner available.
Catalog of ultrasonic baths
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Cons
Sanding plastic 3D printed products
Sanded brown ABS plastic part
Tools and materials you will need for this job:
Sanding process: After the supports have been removed or dissolved, sanding can be performed to smooth the part and remove any visible stains or traces of the supports.
The initial grit size of the sandpaper depends on the layer height and print quality.
For layers with a height of 0.2 mm or less, or if there are no spots left on the part after printing, sanding can be started with a paper grain of - 150.
If there are obvious spots or the object was printed at a layer height of 0.3 mm or more, start sanding with 100 grit paper.
purity. The print should be cleaned with a toothbrush in soapy water and then with a rag, between sanding steps to prevent dust build-up and " sintering ". Your FDM parts can be sanded down to 5000 grit to achieve a shiny part surface.
Helpful Hint:
Always sand in small circular motions evenly over the entire surface of the part. Of course, it is more convenient to sand perpendicular or even parallel to the print layers, but this can lead to indentations in the model. If the part becomes discolored or if there are many small scratches after sanding, you can use a blow dryer.
With it, you gently heat the part, thereby softening the surface a little and visible unnecessary defects will weaken or disappear altogether.
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Acetone for ABS plastics
Two white printed halves of ABS bonded with acetone and diluted plastic.
Tools and materials you will need for this job:
Machining process: When the size of the finished part exceeds the maximum size of the 3D printer's camera, the model often has to be broken into smaller parts and assembled later by gluing.
For PLA and other materials, bonding can be done using the appropriate adhesive (selection of adhesive will depend on the plastic) . For ABS plastic, multi-piece assemblies can be glued with acetone. The mating surfaces should be lightly moistened with acetone and held firmly together or, if possible, clamped until most of the acetone has evaporated. At this point, the two parts of your model will stick together.
Helpful Hint: increasing the contact area with acetone will increase the strength of the joint. This can be done by including block connections in the design.
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Filling irregularities in ABS plastics
The gray ABS model had voids after sanding.
The surface became smooth.
Tools and materials you will need:
Process: After sanding or removing soluble backings, gaps often appear in the print. During printing, gaps are sometimes formed, and often this pattern is unavoidable. Small gaps and voids can be easily filled with epoxy and no further treatment is required. Large gaps, or gouges, left from attaching model assembly parts can be successfully filled with automotive putty, which will require additional sanding after drying.
The putty gives excellent results and can be easily sanded and painted after it has fully cured. The connection will be strong, and will not weaken the plastic. Conversely, autofiller parts tend to be stronger than native plastic.
ABS print gaps can also be filled by making a slurry of ABS filament and acetone ( ABS juice or ABS juice ) that chemically reacts with the part and penetrates any surface voids. A ratio of 1 to 2 between ABS and acetone is recommended. This method will not significantly affect the cleanliness of the surface around the gap if properly applied.
Tip : If gaps are visible on FDM parts before sanding, fill them with epoxy and then sand once until dry. This will greatly reduce the overall time required to achieve a smooth surface.
Pros
Cons
ABS and PLA polishing
ABS plastics catalog
Catalog of PLA plastics
Tools and supplies you will need
Process: Plastic polish can be applied after sanding to give standard filaments such as ABS and PLA a glossy finish.
After the part has been sanded to 1000 grit, wipe off any excess dust from the Non-woven » cloth, then clean it in a bath of warm water with a toothbrush.
Allow the piece to dry completely and buff it with a buffing pad, or by hand with a microfiber cloth and a jewelry polish designed specifically for plastic and synthetics that provides a long lasting shine.
Other plastic polishes, such as car headlight polishes, work on the same principle, but some may contain chemicals that can damage the original material.
Helpful Hint: For polishing small parts, attach the polishing pad to the Variable Speed Drill (or other rotating tool such as a drill) . Bench grinders equipped with a polishing wheel can be used for larger, stronger prints, but don't polish too long in the same place. This can cause the plastic to melt due to friction.
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Priming and painting 3D printed products
White PLA part spray painted gray
Tools and supplies you will need:
Process: after the part has been properly sanded (up to 500 grit sandpaper is required at this stage) , the print can be primed.
The primer should be applied in two coats using an aerosol can.
An aerosol primer designed for painting models will provide an even coverage and be thin enough not to darken the part before painting.
A thick primer, such as one available at the hardware store, may stick together and require more sanding.
Apply the first coat in short, quick strokes at a distance of about 15 - 20 cm from the part to avoid the formation of a thick layer of primer. Let the primer dry and sand down any imperfections with 9 grit sandpaper.1286 500. Apply the final coat of primer with light, quick strokes.
Once the primer is complete, painting can begin. Painting can be done with acrylic paints and artist's brushes, but using an airbrush or spray can give a smoother surface.
Hardware store spray paint tends to be thicker and harder to control, so it's best to use paints made specifically for painting models.
The primed surface should be sanded and polished (sanding and polishing sticks used in nail salons are ideal for this application) and then cleaned with a non-woven cloth.
Paint over the model using very light layers; the first few layers will look translucent. Once the paint has developed an opaque coat of (usually after 2-4 coats) , allow the model to dry for 30 minutes to allow the paint to set. Carefully polish the paint layer with nail sticks.
Multi-colour models can be painted with masking tape. Once all layers of paint are ready, remove the tape and buff the paint using polish paper. Polishing paper such as 3M or Zona can be purchased in a variety of grit sizes. You can buy it in a pack in many online stores. It will give the paint a shine that cannot be achieved in any other way.
Tip: Do not shake the can when using spray paint! The goal is to mix the pigment or primer, shaking the propellants will cause bubbles to form in the aerosol. Instead, rotate the jar for 2-3 minutes. The stirring ball should roll, not rattle.
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Acetone baths for ABS products
Smoothed black model of a petal with a spherical surface made of ABS plastic after an acetone bath.
Tools and materials you will need:
Process: Line the chosen container with paper towels along the bottom and, if possible, up the sides. It is very important that the steam does not disturb the chamber itself. The chamber may be sealed.
It is recommended to use glass and metal containers.
Pour in enough solvent to dampen but not drown the paper towels. This will also help them stick to the side walls of the container.
Acetone is well known for its ability to smooth out ABS parts. For PLA, smoothing is possible with various solvents, they work well, but as a rule, with PLA, it is more difficult to get a smooth surface, unlike ABS.
IMPORTANT! When working with any solvent, please follow the safety regulations for the chemical and always follow the appropriate safety precautions !
A small "raft" of aluminum foil or other solvent-resistant material should be placed in the middle of a lined paper towel container.
Next, place your part on this raft (either side selected as the bottom on the raft) and close the lid of the container.
Steam polishing can vary in duration, so check the print periodically. Heat can be used to increase polishing speed, but care must be taken to prevent the buildup of potentially explosive fumes.
When removing the part from the chamber, try not to touch it at all, leaving it on the raft and removing it from the container. Any points of contact with the part will generate surface defects because the outer shell will be half dissolved. Allow parts to dry completely before use.
NOTE . Many aerosol and/or spray solvents are flammable/explosive and solvent vapors can be harmful to human health. Be especially careful when heating solvents and always work in a well ventilated area.
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Chemical solvent baths
Tools and materials you will need:
Process: Make sure the container you are using is wide enough and deep enough to hold the part and solvent.
Fill the container with the appropriate amount of solvent, taking care to minimize splashing. As with steam smoothing, acetone should be used to dip the ABS.
PLA is sufficiently resistant to solvents, so it may take several passes to achieve the desired result.
Prepare the part for dipping by screwing an eye hook or small screw into an inconspicuous surface of the print. Pass the wire through the eye of the hook or around the screw so you can lower your piece into the wire bath. If the wire is too thin, you won't be able to submerge the part in the solvent.
After the part is prepared, quickly immerse the entire object in the solvent for no more than a few seconds using wire. Pull out the print and attach it to a wire over a dryer rod or rack to allow the solvent to completely evaporate from the surface. The part should be gently shaken after you remove it to facilitate drying and avoid solvent build-up in depressions on the surface.
Helpful Hint: If, after drying, the part has an opaque whitish color, it can be hung over a solvent bath for a while so that the evaporating vapors slightly dissolve the surface.
This will restore the color of the print and provide a glossy outer layer.
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Using epoxy to finish prints
The part is sanded and coated with epoxy resin.
Tools and materials you will need:
Process : after the print has been sanded (sanding first will give better end results) , completely clean it with a non-woven cloth.
Mix the correct ratio of resin and hardener as directed in the resin instructions. Make no mistake about the proportions. Epoxies are exothermic when mixed, so glass containers and containers composed of low melting point materials should be avoided.
Containers specifically designed for mixing epoxy resins are recommended. The wrong ratio will lengthen the drying time and the epoxy may never be able to fully cure, resulting in a disastrous and sticky part.
Mix resin and hardener thoroughly according to instructions. Stir gently to minimize air bubbles. The faster the epoxy dries, the better. Most epoxies have a working dry time of only 10-15 minutes, so do your post-processing in the proper order.
Apply the first coat of epoxy using a foam applicator and try to minimize resin buildup on recessed surfaces or other details of the print. Once your part is sufficiently covered with resin, allow it to fully cure according to the manufacturer's instructions.
One coat may be enough to smooth the detail, but for optimum appearance, the print should be lightly sanded with fine sandpaper (1 ,000 grit or higher) . Remove dust with a non-woven cloth and apply a second coat of epoxy in the same manner.
Pros
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Tools and supplies you will need:
Electrophoresis solutions are acids and can cause eye damage if splashed, so appropriate goggles are required. Also, these solutions can irritate the skin and conduct a charge when used. Therefore, non-conductive gloves should always be used.
Process: metal plating can be electroplated at home or in a professional workshop. Proper plating requires a deep knowledge of materials, and what you can do at home has certain limitations compared to what can be done in a professional workshop.
For a better finish and a wider range of plating options, including chrome plating, a workshop would be the best option. For clarity, the copper plating process will be described below.
At home, galvanization can be done using copper or nickel plate. It is imperative that the surface of the print to be processed is as smooth as possible before coating; any unevenness and visible lines of the layers will start to stand out after coating.
Prepare a cleaned and sanded print. By coating the plastic with a thin layer of high quality conductive paint or a solution of acetone and graphite (if made of ABS) . Allow the conductive coating to dry completely and sand if necessary to ensure a smooth finish. It is extremely important to minimize contact with the print or wear gloves as the sebum on your fingers will interfere with the coating process.
Insert a screw or hook with an eye into an inconspicuous surface of the part, similar to dipping in solvent.
Attach to one of the rectifier leads. This will serve as the cathode. The connection must be made to the negative terminal of the rectifier. Connect the copper anode to the positive terminal of the rectifier using the second power wire and fill the container with enough electroplating solution so that the imprint and the copper anode are completely hidden. Turn on the power rectifier. After the rectifier is turned on, make sure that the part does not touch the anode in any way.
IMPORTANT! Be very careful at this stage. After the part is lowered into the bath and the system is energized, any contact with the solution, anode or cathode may result in personal injury !
Set the power supply rectifier to 1-3 volts. After that, the metallization process will begin until the part is completely covered with metal. Voltage may be increased to reduce coating time, but should not exceed 5 volts. Simply turn off the straightener and remove the print after a satisfactory finish has been applied. Dry the print with microfiber towels. Coat the part with a special varnish for metal after drying. This will protect it from corrosion.
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Well, that's all we have! We hope this article was useful for you!
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