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Our printers continue to collect great reviews and awards all around the world. Original Prusa i3 MK3/S is the best 3D Printer in the Ultimate Guide to Digital Fabrication by MAKE: Magazine and our printers also received several editor's choices and awards from respected media outlets like All3DP, PC Mag, Tom's Hardware, TechRadar, Forbes, WireCutter, Windows Central and many more!
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Of the 11 printers we have tested over the past five years, the Prusa i3 MK3S printer has produced the largest and best-looking prints.
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Overview of the Dimension Elite 3D printer / Sudo Null IT News
In the last topic about 3d printing, I promised to review the Dimension Elite printer.
It's time to keep promises.
Intro
Through a series of random events, I was lucky to get into some organization, one might even say, to participate in its formation. It so happened that we had the printer indicated above, and a person from the Moscow division of Dimension taught me how to handle it. Now it's my turn to tell you something about him.
About the main
Like everyone else, it is worth starting with the characteristics:
| Construction area size: L × W × H | 203 mm × 203 mm × 305 mm |
| Layer thickness | 0.174 mm/0.254 mm |
| Print modes | configurable (layer thickness, filling of the model with material, support alignment algorithm) |
| Growth rate | 15 cm³/h |
| Dimensions: L × W × H | 686 mm × 914 mm × 1041 mm |
| Unit weight (without packaging) | 136 kg |
As you can see, such a small working volume requires a very small and heavy box.
It happened, it seems to me, due to two factors: the presence of rather massive mechanisms for moving the table up / down and moving the print head in two dimensions. Plus, the printing technology requires heating the volume of the working chamber up to 75 degrees, which, in general, is not enough. All this requires not the weakest power supply. If you believe more than the manufacturer's documentation, the printer consumes about 1.5 kW / h. Well, like any heater, it heats the space around very well. In the summer it is quite difficult to be in the same room with him.
Attention, there are a lot of images inside, be careful!
Let's take a look at the handsome man
Solid, infection. Below you can see 2 cartridges, later you will see them. The printer is equipped with a tinted glass door through which the printing process is clearly visible. Before you open the door and see what's inside, you need to say that the printer is connected to the PC via the Ethernet interface.
Inside the hole
It's time to open the door. Unfortunately, I was not allowed to disassemble it completely in order to savor the details of the design, but there's nothing to be done, dear he :)
So, in the upper right corner we see the print head. The head is tricky and has 2 nozzles: one for supplying support material, the second for supplying the main material. In the standby state, the head is on the "base", hanging over the metal brushes and the waste box. Plastic pellets fall into this box, the head dumps them there, gently rubbing itself against a metal brush. But in general, there is not much garbage, the box has never been filled even by a third. To the left of the drawer, you can see the skids and the mechanism for moving the working table; a replaceable substrate is fixed on the table. By the way, here it is closer:0055
Cap from a lens with a filter diameter of 52 mm, so, for comparing scales. The backing is divided into sections to make it easier for the printer software to place parts on it.
And, although the manufacturer guarantees quality only on new substrates, we use ours until we win, until we scratch them at all. I don't see anything wrong with that.
Let's talk about cartridges. Yes, you read that right, we can't just shove a couple of rolls of plastic into the printer and forget about them for a couple of months. The manufacturer came up with cartridges. And not simple ones, inside they have some kind of electronics that transmits information to the printer about the remaining amount of plastic inside. Let's take a closer look at them.
First base material cartridge:
As you can see, we have it in a delicate milky color, or, as the manufacturer says, ivory. The box is like a box, only the wire sometimes runs inside and I have a lot of hemorrhoids to pick it out. The design, in my opinion, is not very successful.
Second Support Material Cartridge:
The material is rather mysterious, not only is it brown and brittle, but it is also soluble in an alkaline solution.
With the ink cartridges and liner loaded into the printer, it's time to close the printer door and sit down at the computer to prepare your models for printing.
The software is proudly called CatalystEX. To be honest, I still have no idea if it's free or not. And in Google I found nothing, except for the old version. The interface is simple and intuitive for anyone who has ever seen any 3D editor. In order not to look at the naked editor, I will show you a little man in it
The General tab allows you to select the layer thickness, object construction mode (monolithic, large or small cells), support construction algorithm and scale.
On the Orientation tab, you can specify which of the surfaces will be at the bottom / top, and change the view mode of the model. By pressing the Process STL button (and the software understands models ONLY in STL format), we get a beautiful layer cake that shows how the model will look after printing.
I can’t help but draw an analogy of support for the eyes of our little man with this character from Flattened Space (or Flying Trip)
Analogy
Yes, the printer is so cunning that it can even pause printing in a certain layer .
For example, we make a part with a place for a bearing, you can stop printing, put the bearing in its rightful place and bury it tightly in plastic. There is only one limitation, it is impossible for it to be higher (ie not sticking out) of the upper part of the model being made.
Having prepared the model, press the Add To Pack button and get into the third tab:
On it, you can place the model on the substrate, see how much material and time it takes to print, and make copies if you need them. Print! The first time I pressed the treasured button, I waited for the printer to show signs of life. Waiting in vain until you press the button on the printer case, nothing will happen. Those. you can’t send it to print from home via RDP, you need to be near the printer, and this is sad.
After that, you can go to the Printer Services tab and see all sorts of logs. My favorite is the heating log, it shows the current and desired temperature:
The Printer Status tab is the most uninteresting, it shows a table with models and cartridge volume before and after printing, so there will be no screenshot.
As you can see from the table above, the printing process is not at all fast, unfortunately. During operation, the printer is noisy, but not very loud. A few photos of the work process:
And video. True, the author took it off and left, and only then realized that it was vertical, for which he apologizes.
Returning in the morning, I pulled out the backing with the models. The ship, however, failed, which once again confirms the rule: do not take ready-made models from the Internet, nothing good will come of it.
Time to wash off the backing material. This is done in a separate chamber (for some reason I call it a stove) of this design
Pour a little more than 30 liters of water into it, add 7-8 sachets of solvent and turn it on for 2-4 hours. The solvent is this:
Closed:
And open:
The bags look like…
After soaking the details, you can observe the result:
and a couple of bushings, the rounds from which were visible in the photo of the substrate above
This, I think, can be considered a short review completed.
I look forward to comments, and please report errors and omissions in a personal message. See you!
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