Home » Misc » 3D printed motor coupler

3D printed motor coupler


Coupler best 3D printing models・Cults

Fuel wheels coupler "Real Rims"

€3.23

Hera h2 AR15 Mag Coupler Magazine Coupler

€10

Artisian 3e servo coupler

Free

M4/AR15 magazine base V2

€1 -50% €0.50

Reverse bowden/10mm bowden coupler mount 2020 extrusion

Free

Angle nipple coupler hose

€0.51

RV Non-Pressurized Freshwater Coupler

Free

Coupler (rotator) for microwave oven LG

Free

York Railway replacement couplings for the Kato 11-109 & 11-110 (H0e)

Free

PTFE Bowden Tube Separator (Clamp) for Ikea Lack Enclosure MMU

Free

DUAL MAGAZINE COUPLER M4

€0. 50

5mm to 8mm Stepper / 775 Motor Z Axis Tall Shaft Coupler / Coupling

Free

Shaft coupler

Free

5mm to 8mm Stepper / 775 Motor Z Axis Shaft Coupler / Coupling

Free

Kadee coupler mount pad for Hartland Flat Cars

€1.19

Flexible coupling spacer setup

Free

ar 15 mag coupler

€1.77

USB cable coupler / sleeve

Free

G Scale Bachman hopper Kadee Coupler mount

Free

21 teeth pulley with nema 17 coupler

€1.40

Scorpion Evo EV-9 Dual Mag coupler

€7. 59

Porter Cable Sander to Shopvac

Free

Rotary Filament Pass-Through

Free

Pex 1/2" Inline Coupler

Free

Exhaust Fan Vent System

Free

Capsela Replacement Parts

Free

Kadee body mount adapter for Bachmann Passenger cars

€1.19

Kadee body mount adapter for Delton Passenger cars

€1.19

Tow coupling for RC airplane (with servo mount)/ Schleppkupplung - with Fusion File

Free

Coupler for Hand Lotion Bottles

Free

M10 Straight-thru bowden coupler

Free

Gauntlet Power Coupler + Greeblies

€3. 33

Cople Oldham

€0.74

IamSly's Parametric Hose Coupler

Free

Thinkpad USB-C / Thunderbolt Coupler

Free

support z coupler artillery hornet

Free

Pfaff 262 Motor coupler

Free

Rainbow Bridge for pet

€0.50

Edge Coupler (Customizable)

Free

Tilting Coupler for Huina and other RC Excavators

€24.44

Nema 23, D-shaft to 9 mm "Flexible" Coupling

Free

Silvercrest SSM 550 A1 blender coupler

Free

Coupler Nema 17 - 6 - 6.

32 - 8 mm

Free

MGN12 Linear Rail Carriage

Free

16-pin (2x8) Dupont connector coupler

Free

2020 vSlot-stepper coupler

Free

Vac Attachment Sawdust Collector for Central Machinery Combination Sander Shop

Free

Printer Mods MDD strain relief

Free

3D Printer - Coupling - Collections - cesar_es

by cesar_es, last updated

106 163

98 70

55 85

35 66

154 184

353 396

443 728

235 373

4 18

87 165

14 30

437 630

Couplings, what, why, where? Quick guide.

Hello. I meet a lot of misconceptions about couplings. In most printers and machines, the wrong couplings are installed that should be installed, so I want to briefly tell you what, where and why to put.

1. The simplest (and cheapest) type of coupling.

The only purpose is to transfer torque from one piece of reinforcement to another. Not suitable for shafts. Because it does not provide coaxiality, does not work with non-parallel shafts, does not work with non-collinearity shafts (although collinearity is already excluded based on misalignment and non-parallelism). When tightened, due to a gap in the hole, the screw moves the shaft away from the center of the hole, thereby knocking out the alignment. And since the diameter of the holes in the coupling is different (as well as the diameter of the shafts), the gap is different, and the mixing is different. As a result, we get a beating, and very often also a “hanging” of the shaft. The only thing such a clutch is suitable for in a 3D printer is to replace it as quickly as possible.

The method of fixing the shaft is already more correct, it is compressed from both sides, which centers the shaft in the center between the two halves, and ensures alignment with the shaft on the other side, which also receives centering due to compression from both sides. But that's in theory. In practice, due to the different rigidity of both halves and the gap between the coupling and the shaft, the "sawed" (in the photo on the right) side of the coupling presses the shaft against the solid part (on the left in the photo), in the presence of shafts of the same diameter, in principle, ok, but since we have different the diameter of the shafts most often - again we get a misalignment.

Next, from left to right.

First - works with non-parallel shafts, but has play in the "cross". For a printer that constantly pulls the axis back and forth is not suitable. Moreover, due to the fact that it is made of two halves, it is not a fact that in principle it has the alignment of these two halves, and, accordingly, the holes for the shafts. She will already give a beating shaft out of the box.

The second one - does not work with non-parallel shafts, so if the printer is curved, we will get the "hanging" of the shaft. But it's the best out of all of them so far.

The third one, unlike the first one, has no backlash, but has a buildup (the spring springs, and, thus, the Z axis swings). It is aggravated by the fact that if the whole structure is not rigid, then the clutch will constantly "play" on this spring. It is not suitable for the X and Y axes, for Z, in principle, it is an option if it is not possible to ensure the collinearity of the shafts, and you do not use auto-calibration of the table using BLTouch type sensors, when the Z axis constantly pulls back and forth during the printing process. It is highly desirable to use guides with a "braking" function with such a clutch on the Z axis (for example, install not carriages or linear ball bearings, but bushings that would brake against the shafts and quickly dampen the buildup. But it is still better to ensure the shafts are collinear and install a second clutch .

Next is the so-called "diaphragm" coupling.

This one doesn't play like the first one from the previous photo, and it doesn't spring like the third one. It does not spring, because it rests against the stops with which the membrane is screwed, and does not play, because the membrane is not just inserted, but screwed or riveted in the correct coupling. It works with a slight misalignment of the shafts, and in principle the option is not bad, but there is one big BUT. Since the coupling is "combined" (consists of several parts), it does not technologically ensure the alignment of the holes for the shaft. No matter how well it is assembled, the shaft runout is guaranteed.

Another clutch

I don't know how it is called correctly. I found only plastic for an example, but you need to look for metal. But, despite my disparaging name, this is one of the most correct couplings. Firstly, if it is done correctly, then it already technologically ensures the alignment of the holes (not the shafts, but the holes in the coupling), well, provided that they were drilled from one side (first they drilled more, and then less). The spring part is more rigid than the "spring clutch" above. Therefore, it will not swing so much. But "brakes" on the rails are still desirable. Yes, it does not digest a strong non-parallelism compared to a spring one, but this is enough for a more or less normal 3D printer. As for the shaft clamp, in the example it is made with a screw. This, as I wrote above, is not good. Therefore, it is worth looking for such a coupling with shaft fixation, following the example of the two previous couplings. If one can be found, then this will be the best choice of coupling for a 3D printer.

Two-piece printed sleeve.

Google example.

Almost always achieves alignment, even if the print quality is poor. It is better to print from a flex of harder breeds. But I personally have one of the PLA (not mine in the photo). Among all the types of couplings discussed above, it provides the best alignment, but does not work with non-parallel shafts, and the shaft can "chat".

In fact, there is nothing more to buy for a 3D printer. Of course, there are also couplings of the "cardan" type, but for the most part they also have a backlash, and besides, they again have such a shaft clamp with a screw, like the first coupling, so they simply are not suitable for anything other than for cardan transmission .

Which one to choose?

As long as you have a rigid printer, good guides, and the threaded shaft is not locked at the free end, even if there is a slight runout (misalignment), this is not a problem. All the same, the shaft, due to the free end, will be able to move the nut normally. The least of all, the beating is scary for printers in which printing takes place far from the motor (at the end of the shaft). In this case, the influence of the beat is minimal. That is, if you have, for example, a printer with a drop-down table, and the motors are in the base, then you are better off choosing a clutch that beats, but at the same time copes well with non-parallelism. As for the "hanging" (non-parallelism of the shafts), then the opposite is true here. The closer to the sleeve printing begins, the less will be the contribution of "hanging" to print quality. But the farther from the coupling, the more the shaft will lead away from the intended axis, and the more it will bend the guides and affect the print quality.

Ideally, if you can find the last one, but only in the correct version. She is "universal".

Well, or you can take the motor shaft without a clutch. Then, provided that the shafts are even, it will not hit exactly. But if the motor is crooked, then the shaft can bend to get into the nut, in this case it is better to put the motor straight =) but if it doesn’t work, you can try rubber dampers under the motor. They have a small degree of freedom and will help a little with the curvature. You can also put washers under the places where the motor is pressed against the frame and tighten only two of the four screws (which ones depend on which direction the motor is tilted), but this is only for motor shafts, this option is not suitable for a motor with a clutch, there if you tighten two screws, then only diagonal ones.

STL file Hoverboard motor clutch・3D printer design to download・Cults

Stiefelkampfmeser trainingmesser knife training

1,50 €

Belt buckle positioner

1,20 €

Door leaf lock, van closing

1 €

Trampoline Barrier

Free

Trampoline Barrier II

Free

Best 3D Printer Files in the Gadget Category

Magic Cube Yes/No

1. 30 €

Ghost - wall key ring

1.40 €

Wacom pen holder Soyuz

3 €

Zelda Master Sword

Free

Battery holder and container

2 €

Leica L39 M39 mount lens adapter to Olympus OM-D cameras

6 €

Disinfectant kit

Free

Simple Christmas tree

Free

Bestsellers in the Gadget category

QATAR 2022 FOOTBALL WORLD CUP QATAR 2022

1.69 €

Bambu AMS Color 2 tier rack (for 2 AMS units 1 top 1 bottom)

2.33 €

Owl - wall key holder

1. 85 €

Mount for GoPro DJI AVATA

2,50 €

JEEP WRANGLER PEN HOLDER - 3-IN-1

1,84 €

BARABA crossbow pistol with aluminum profile core

8 €

Air motor, printed fully assembled, ready to use

3.14 €

Dice box with mechanical rotating top

3.75 €

Application to turn your photo into 10 types of jewelry

3,50 €

AR-15 LOWER MULTI-CAL. REINFORCED DESIGN

8,50 €

F18 SUPER HORNET - 50 MM EDF JET [RC AIRPLANE]

€11.88

CYLINDER WALL/PISTON 2-STROKE

0,92 €

G26 frame DD26 - super reinforced

7 €

Brush conditioner

2. 26 €

Keyfob application

€3.50

V8 engine seal in place

€1.76 -fifty% 0.88 €

Do you want to support Cults?

Do you like Cults and want to help us continue our journey on our own ? Please note that we are a small team of 3 people , so support us in keeping the activities of and creating future designs for is very simple. Here are 4 solutions available to everyone: