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Skip to contentSkull Mug Cup Glass
€2.40
HotCoffee Mug Cap to keep your drink warm.
Free
Toothless Toothless Mug How to train your dragon
€5.06
goku dragon ball mate or cup
Free
Coffee mugs (Duplo compatible)
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you image on a mug with nutella glass
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Mug
Free
COFFEE MUG WALL CLOCK
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HALLOWEEN MONSTER CANDY DISPENSER
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Ikea Skadis Peg Board to Kalas Mug Holder
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Mario Bros Ghost Mug
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Mother's Day Mug
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joker mug
Free
cobra kai mug
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Matt's Magic Mug Maker
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river plate mug
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boca juniors mug
Free
MATE PUSHEEN OR CUP
€5.24
Taza Corazones
Free
mickey mug
€3.93
Big simple, printable mug
Free
Decorative glass Anubis
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MARIO BROS MUG
Free
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Spilled Drink Mug
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Stanley Matero Set
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Cup handle
Free
Old cup
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cookie carton jar
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Rocket espresso coffee mug
Free
Japanese style tea mug Infusor (MUG + CAP)
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Toothbrush Cup/ Tooth/ Tooth
€0.50
nico3d dino mug
€3.27
small mug - cup
€1
Coffee Mug Riser
€0.66
Thor Mug
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Toothbrush mug
Free
Huggy Wuggy Mug
€0.65
Thanos Mug
€0.50
batman theme mug
€2.41
Decorative mug
€2.41
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Big-Lavka
PLA mug and boiling water.
3D printing
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I once had a crazy idea to make a mug out of PLA that won't bend and hold hot coffee or tea. Earlier I saw a post about a pla cup and how it bends and softens when boiling water is in it. Based on what he saw, he decided to model a thick mug in the style of a thermos, i.e. 2 walls, and between them there is air, with the expectation that, apart from hot liquid, nothing will put pressure on the inner walls, and since air prevails between the inner and outer walls, the outer walls will not heat up enough to wrinkle in the hands. So, for starters, a thermos mug was modeled, if you can call it that.
It consists of 2 parts, the thermos itself and the lid-mug, they are threaded and twisted. I modeled in a self-cad, it turned out pretty quickly and simply. Then I printed the lid on creatbot mini, natural pla plastic bestfilament (I considered the absence of dyes in plastic important), cura slicer.
print specifications:
0.4mm nozzle
0.2mm layer
1.6mm wall thickness
20% coverage
after 16 hours of printing, in other words the next day, I decided to immediately test the cap and poured into it boiling water. The result is as follows: the outer walls warmed up after 10 minutes, but not enough to be soft, the bottom warmed up faster and became a little soft, after which the boiling water cooled down.
then it turned out that I made a mistake with the thread and I had to print the cover of the mug again.
This is where the adventure began, or the problem was in the printer or in the plastic, or both, I didn’t fully figure it out, the plastic choked during printing very badly.
Perhaps because it is already old, and there was a problem of fluid leaks - cracks between the layers and fill lines. The solution was to dry out the coil and ream some of the Teflon tubing in the hot end. after which there was a small problem, in some places the distance between the lines in the horizontal plane, namely at the bottom is too large, as a result of which the bottom leaks. With the help of coffee, it was possible to find and show leaks
Here I got into the self-slicer, I remember exactly there is an opportunity to reduce the distance. (top/bottom line width)
After which the thermos was printed, the thread had to be worked out a little about 10 minutes of work with a file, and here it is the result.
well, a few links, suddenly someone will come in handy on Thingiverse - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2275179
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Hello my friend! Today I decided to assemble a simple pneumohydraulic generator or Generator .