Plastic 3d printing near me
New Jersey 3D Printing Services
Fast turnaround and high quality 3D printing in NJ. Get 3D printed parts without the hassle.
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What makes PrintAWorld different from the other New Jersey 3D printing companies
Get access to industrial 3D printers
High resolution and large scale 3d printers are expensive. At PrintAWorld, you'll get the benefits of industrial 3d printing without the cost that comes with it.
Get expert help
We’ll help you every step of the way from the design to figuring out the best way to get your project done within budget and time.
On a tight a deadline? No problem! With our 3D printing and fabrication capabilities, we can make your trophies faster than traditional trophy makers. We can even make them in 2 days!*
Select projects that we did for our clients in New Jersey
How our 3D printing service in New Jersey works
Send us a few information
The material you need, quantities and a short description of your project. If you're unsure, don't sweat it. We will guide you to the perfect solution!
Upload a 3D File
Send us your.stl or .obj files. Don't have a file ready? We also provide a professional 3D modeling service.
Receive a quote
You'll get an email and a call from us immediately so we can talk about the best and most cost effective way to approach your project. No minimum order quantities!
Pay and print
Once the quote is approved we will start 3D printing your idea. We'll keep you updated and we'll make sure the result is exactly what you want or even more. No minimum orders.
Shipping or pickup
We offer nationwide delivery or you can pick it up from one of our local studios near you.
3D printing materials that we offer
Looking for a material that isn't listed here? Shoot us an email at [email protected]
ABS plastic is a strong and durable material. They're ideal for prototyping mechanical parts. For prototypes that require high-precision, consider CNC machining ABS or printing in other materials. For production parts, we suggest using injection molding instead.
Nylons is a strong and durable material that is also flexible. Ideal for live hinges and functional parts.
Perfect for complex 3d models that require high details and smooth finishing.
SOMOS resin is the industrial version of standard resin. It's perfect for almost any 3d that require smooth finishing and high details. We recommend this material for any projects such as high-detailed models, architecture, art sculptures and engineering prototypes.
SOMOS Waterclear 10122 Resin
Somos® WaterClear Ultra 10122 is a clear resin that produces colorless, functional and accurate parts that simulate an acrylic appearance. Parts produced from Somos® WaterClear Ultra 10122 exhibit excellent water and temperature resistance.
How much does 3D printing in New Jersey costs?
The cost of 3D printing depends on the 3D model, the material you choose and type of finishing required. Rushed orders adds additional cost as well.
How long does your 3D printing service take?
Depending on the complexity of the project, our standard turnaround time is 3-5 days. Rushed projects can take as fast as 1 day.
Do you offer delivery?
We can ship anywhere in the U.S. and the world. If you have your own Fedex or delivery account, we can use that.
3D Printing in 3 Steps (Yes, Only 3!)3D Printing in 3 Steps (Yes, Only 3!) | Staples.com
by Kevin Ackerman, Staples® Contributing Writer
Since it gives computer users the ability to produce tangible objects in a variety of materials and colors right from their desktop, 3D printing seems as if it would be technically complicated (or just magical). But in reality, it’s not all that different from printing in two dimensions on paper.
To produce a printed page, all computer users need is a document, a computer and access to a printer — and, of course, ink and paper. Likewise, printing in 3D only requires three similar things. Sure, the technologies differ, but that’s the basic gist, as these three steps explain.
Step 1: Develop a Concept
If you were to open a document file on your computer, hit some random keys on your keyboard and press Print, you’d have a paper printout — though it wouldn’t make much sense. With 3D printing, you can’t make a shape that easily, not even a poor one, so it’s worth beginning the process by putting some thought into your object.
Start by knowing what you’d like to print in three dimensions. If you don’t have an idea or concept, there are plenty of free suggestions online to get you started. Web sites like Thingiverse.com offer a library of pre-designed objects that you can print with any 3D printer to gain experience. Or you can be inspired by people who are already using 3D printing technology.
Phoenix-based sculptor Kevin Caron uses 3D printing to refine his artwork before making full-sized versions. "Mostly what I'm doing is proof of concept designs. You know, will it stand up, does it look right and are the proportions correct on it?” he says.
And Chris Considine, CEO and founder of Los Angeles–based CXC Simulations, uses 3D printing to prototype custom-designed parts for racing simulators that are so realistic, they are used by professional race car drivers. "We need 3D orienting to see if the part feels exactly how we want it to feel,” he says.” We went through about 30 versions before we found the one that was perfect for us. Other than 3D printing, there’s truly no way you could have done that without building it over and over again."
Step 2: Hop on a Computer
Once you know what you want to produce, it’s time to sit down at a computer and make it happen. 3D prints are most commonly generated from an STL or .stl file. Standing for “stereolithography” (what 3D printing was named when it was first invented), this file format is to 3D printing what the .doc file is to document output.
To open and manipulate an STL file, you’ll need computer-aided design (CAD) software. For decades, these programs have been used by everyone from architects to product designers, so there are many kinds of CAD software available.
SketchUp is a free modeling program designed to be straightforward and allow anyone to create three-dimensional renderings, whether simple or complicated. Likewise, Tinkercad keeps the design process easy by providing just three simple tools. It also runs in a Web browser and offers step-by-step design lessons to demonstrate how easy 3D printing can be.
Meanwhile, programs like AutoCAD are favored by many experienced professionals, having been used in the design and prototyping of millions of products throughout the years.
To run these programs, you don’t need a particularly powerful computer. Caron uses an HP desktop machine to create his digital sculptures. "It's not a big screaming gaming computer by any means,” he says. "It's just a small office computer and it handles the CAD program just fine.”
Step 3: Get Access to a 3D Printer
Most people assume they need to own a 3D printer to produce digitally rendered objects, but that isn’t true. Sure, owning a desktop 3D printer can put your designs within arm’s reach. But driving across town to pick up your objects at a Staples 3D printing service location or having them delivered by mail can be just as convenient for some businesses.
For example, Caron owns a CubeX™ commercial 3D printer. With the ability to print objects up to the size of a basketball, this device produces designs in plastic and in more than 4,000 different colors. He’s also used print-on-demand services to produce sculptures that he couldn’t make on his office’s machine.
"They’re breathtaking when you see them,” he says of the two acrylic sculptures. "The detail that I could view on the computer came out in the print — it just blew me away.” Caron is planning to scale his designs down and turn them into jewelry to sell. "I've gotten one back in a polished glass and it's stunning. You can’t tell it from gold other than by the weight."
If you are interested in using 3D printing but need help with these steps, visit one of our stores that offers 3D printing services (currently in Los Angeles and New York City). There, we can help you with all the steps, from getting in touch with designers to actual 3D printing. You can even get in our 3D printing photo booth and have your face put on a figurine.
Go from Concept to Reality
Some businesses would argue that 3D printing, whether it’s done in the office or at an outside service, is worth its weight in gold. "I can go from concept in my head to holding the part in sometimes as quickly as an hour,” says Considine. "It’s a very powerful thing for an engineer to have. It's liberating."
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Overview of high-temperature FDM plastics for industrial 3D printing / Sudo Null IT News materials in stock. To understand what materials are needed to obtain a strong and lightweight part, we are moving from personal printing to industrial printing. PLA, ABS, SBS are consumables that are familiar to all printers. PETG, nylon, polycarbonate - rather exotic. But these are far from the most serious materials.
Where are superplastics needed?
Plastics with outstanding properties are very useful in space. No, it’s not yet possible to print a rocket engine out of plastic, the heat resistance is not even close to the same, but it is ideal for various parts around. An example is Stratasys and the "climate control" of Atlas V rockets. 16 printed parts instead of 140 metal parts - faster, lighter, cheaper. And this is not a theoretical project, it has already flown into space.
Another example is aviation. The flight altitude is lower, but the application is more massive. Here, too, there is a reason to reduce the mass of parts, switch to plastic where possible. It is used in the aircraft industry and direct metal printing, when it comes to engine components or fuselage frame parts, but less loaded structural elements, such as cabin ventilation and interior elements, are best made from plastic. This direction is being developed, for example, by Airbus.
We descend from heaven to earth: here the mass is no longer so critical, other properties of engineering plastics are of interest. Resistance to aggressive chemicals and elevated temperatures, the ability to create structures inaccessible to classical methods. At the same time - a lower price, in comparison with metal printing. Printed products are used in medicine, the oil and gas industry, and the chemical industry. As an example, a mixing block with a complex channel structure, made for illustration in a section.
Difference from conventional plastics
Why not launch PLA into space and make air vent grilles from ABS? A number of requirements are applied to engineering plastics related to resistance to high and low temperatures, fire resistance, mechanical strength. Usually all at once. So, it is undesirable to launch PLA “floating” when interacting with the environment or perfectly burning ABS into the sky.
Now - to what, in fact, plastics are used in industrial printing using FDM / FFF technology.
Polycarbonate is a common industrial plastic with high impact resistance and transparency, also produced for the needs of FDM printing. The material holds temperature better than ABS, is resistant to acids, but is sensitive to UV radiation and is destroyed by oil products.
Clear polycarbonate, PC
The maximum operating temperature for polycarbonate products is 130 °C. Polycarbonate is biologically inert, products made from it can withstand sterilization, which makes it possible to print packaging and auxiliary equipment for medicine.
- Stratasys PC, PC-ISO for Fortus printers. The first is general purpose, the second is certified for biocompatibility, for medical use.
- Intamsys PC;
- Esun ePC;
- SEM PC;
- PrintProduct PC;
Polycarbonate/ABS alloy combines the sanding and painting capabilities of ABS with higher impact resistance and operating temperature. Retains strength at low temperatures down to -50 °C. Unlike pure PC, it is better applicable in cases where it is necessary to eliminate the layered structure of the part by grinding or sandblasting. Application: production of housings and elements of controls for piece and small-scale production, replacement of mass-produced plastic parts in equipment, parts for which have ceased to be produced.
- Stratasys PC/ABS;
- Roboze PC-ABS;
- SEM ABS/PC;
- BestFilament ABS/PC.
Polyamide based filaments
Polyamides are used in the production of synthetic fibers, a popular material for printing by selective laser sintering (SLS). For printing using FDM / FFF technology, polyamide-6 (kapron), polyamide-66 (nylon) and polyamide-12 are mainly used. Common features of polyamide-based filaments include chemical inertness and anti-friction properties. Polyamide-12 is more flexible and resilient than PA6 and PA66. Operating temperature approx. 100 °C, some modifications up to 120.
First of all, gears are printed from polyamide. The best material for this purpose, which can be worked with on a regular 3D printer with a closed chamber. Abrasion resistance allows you to make rods, cams, sliding bushings. In the line of many manufacturers there are composite filaments based on polyamide, with even greater mechanical strength.
- Stratasys Nylon 6, Nylon 12, Nylon 12CF. The latter is filled with carbon fiber.
- Intamsys Nylon, PA6.
- Taulman Nylon 618, Nylon 645 based on PA66 and PA6 respectively. Nylon 680 is approved for use in the food industry. Alloy 910 is a low shrinkage polyamide alloy.
- PrintProduct Nylon, Nylon Mod, Nylon Strong;
- REC Friction;
- BestFilament BFNylon.
Moving on to the fun part
You can work with polycarbonate or polyamide on a regular 3D printer. With the filaments described below, it is more difficult, they require other extruders and maintaining the temperature in the working chamber, that is, you need special equipment for printing with high-temperature plastics. There are exceptions - for example, NASA, for the sake of experiment, upgraded the Lulzbot TAZ popular in the USA to work with high-temperature filaments.
The working temperature of products made of PEEK reaches 250 ° C, short-term heating up to 300 is possible - indicators for reinforced filaments. PEEK has two disadvantages: high price and moderate impact resistance. The rest is pluses. The plastic is self-extinguishing, heat-resistant, chemically inert. Medical equipment and implants are produced from PEEK, abrasion resistance makes it possible to print parts of mechanisms from it.
- Intamsys PEEK;
- Apium PEEK;
- Roboze PEEK, Carbon PEEK. The second is reinforced with carbon fiber.
He is Ultem. A family of plastics developed by SABIC. The characteristics of PEI are more modest than those of PEEK, but the cost is noticeably lower. Ultem 1010 and 9085 are Stratasys' primary materials for printing functional parts. PEI is in demand in the aerospace industry - the mass is much less compared to aluminum alloys. Operating temperatures of products, depending on the modification of the material, reach 217 ° C according to the manufacturer and 213 - according to the results of tests by Stratasys.
The advantages of PEI are the same as those of PEEK - chemical and temperature resistance, mechanical strength. It is this material that Stratasys is promoting as a partial replacement for metal in the aerospace industry, for drones, the manufacture of tooling for molding, the rapid printing of functional parts in pilot production.
Atlas V rocket cooling system components and Airbus plastic parts shown as an example at the beginning of the review are made of Ultem 9085.
- Stratasys Ultem 1010 and 9085, for Fortus 450mc and 900mc printers.
- Intamsys Ultem 1010 and 9085;
- Roboze Ultem AM9085F;
- Apium PEI 9085.
Another material that combines in its properties temperature resistance, mechanical strength and resistance to chemical attack. Stratasys PPSF is certified for aerospace and medical applications. Positioned as a raw material for the production of auxiliary medical devices, it can be sterilized in steam autoclaves. It is used in the production of parts for laboratory installations in the chemical industry.
- Stratasys PPSF;
- 3DXTech Firewire PPSU.
Less common than PPSU, similar physical characteristics, chemically inert, self-extinguishing. 175°C operating temperature, up to 33% cheaper than PPSU.
- 3DXTech Firewire PSU
Comparison of filament characteristics
* calcination for 2 hours at 140 °C.
** Apium PEEK 450 natural, impact test results not available with similar methods. Temperature resistance is specified for unfilled PEEK.
Data shown for Stratasys filaments, excluding PEEK. If a range of values is indicated, then the tests were carried out along and across the layers of the part.
About composite filaments
Most FDM printing materials have composite versions. If we talk about PLA, then metal or wood powders are added to it to change the aesthetic properties. Engineering filaments are reinforced with carbon fiber to increase the rigidity of the part. The influence of such additives on the properties of plastic depends not only on their quantity, but also on the size of the fibers. If a fine powder can be considered a decorative additive, then the fibers already significantly change the characteristics of the plastic. By itself, the word Carbon in the name of the material does not yet mean outstanding properties, you need to look at the test results. For example: Stratasys Nylon12CF has almost twice the tensile strength, when tested along the layers, than Nylon12.
Exotic variant - implementation of continuous reinforcement from Markforged. The company offers a reinforcing filament for co-FDM printing with other plastics.
Other specific properties
Engineering plastics are not only resistance to high temperatures and mechanical strength. For housings or boxes for storing electronic devices, and in environments where flammable volatile liquids are used, materials with antistatic properties are required. In the Stratasys line, this is, for example, ABS-ESD7.
- Stratasys ABS-ESD7;
- Roboze ABS-ESD
Conventional ABS does not have UV resistance, which limits its outdoor use without a protective coating. As an alternative, ASA is offered, which has characteristics similar to ABS, except for the presence of UV resistance.
- REC Eternal;
- SEM ASA;
- BestFilament A.S.A.
Plastic can replace metal in many areas, as it surpasses it in lightness, thermal and electrical insulation, resistance to reagents. But printouts from the best FDM filaments do not reach the physical indicators of metal products.
Chemical giant BASF offers the Ultrafuse 316LX FDM filament, with a stainless steel content of 80%. The part is printed on an FDM printer and then placed in an oven where the binder plastic is burned off and the metal is sintered. The part obtained in this way is much cheaper than the one made by direct metal printing. With an FDM printer and a suitable oven, no new equipment is needed at all.
Note that a similar solution is offered by the Virtual Foundry company - its Filamet, with bronze or copper powder, is baked in a similar way. The choice of metal hints at decorative rather than engineering applications.
AIM3D has its own implementation of this principle - the ExAM 255 printer does not work with filament, but with granules. This allows the use of raw materials for FDM printing, which are usually used in MIM installations, Metal Injection Molding. For sintering the part, the company offers an ExSO 9 furnace0. It is also possible to print with plastic granules, which is usually cheaper than using traditional filament.
Special machinery for engineering plastics
To recap. In a nutshell: the considered consumables differ from the usual materials in high printing temperature, which requires the use of special equipment, and serious heat resistance and mechanical strength of the manufactured parts. To work with such filaments, 3D printers with an extruder operating temperature of 350 °C and a heat-stabilized working chamber are required. Top 3D Shop specialists will help you with the selection of an industrial 3D printer and plastics for solving the most interesting tasks.
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12 common 3D printing mistakes from simple to complex. How to avoid them?
1. Underestimation of the importance of the first layer. 2. Don't ask the 3D printing communities for help. 3. Random entanglement of the filament. 4. Fast assembly of your 3D printer. 5. Incorrect table and nozzle height calibration. 6. Using the wrong slicer settings. 7. Using a high % infill to reinforce details instead of walls/shells. 8. Don't use support when needed. 9. Never replace worn parts. 10. Lack of 3D printing monitoring. 11. Neglect of safety rules in 3D printing. 12. Buying a bad 3D printer out of over-enthusiasm. Conclusion.
There's nothing worse than 3D printing for days, weeks, months and years only to find out you're making common mistakes.
We're sure many of you are familiar with that feeling, which is why we've written this post to get you back on the road to success by outlining some common mistakes to avoid on your 3D printing journey.
Here you will find both small errors that you did not pay attention to before, and serious errors that can lead to a complete cessation of 3D printing.
Join us in our research to identify the most common 3D printing mistakes and easy solutions to fix them quickly.
1. Underestimation of the importance of the first layer.
Too often 3D printing fails in the middle of the process due to poor adhesion of the first layer.
Definitely keep this important factor in mind if you want a successful print.
This is a mistake that is made too often, and it causes people to chase ghosts, trying to figure out what the problem is.
All this time, the reason was the bad first layers, which did not have a strong enough connection with the working platform.
Although your first layer is held at the start of printing, adhesion decreases as the print head moves. It is likely that your print may shift or fall off after a few hours if the first layer was not well extruded.
- Make a few test prints ahead of time to see how well the material adheres.
- Use an adhesive such as 3D Printer Varnish or at least a glue stick.
- Increase the flow rate (extrusion multiplier) for the first layer so the material has a better chance of sticking to the printer bed.
2. Do not seek help from the 3D printing communities.
Every user of a 3D printer has encountered some kind of problem that required some effort to fix. Some people took on entire projects just to solve a 3D printer problem, when the solution was easy to find.
3D printing communities are known for helping people solve their problems, so be sure to check out these free resources. From 3D printing forums to Facebook groups and YouTube surveys of other 3D printer users, the options are endless.
When we first started exploring 3D printing, we noticed that many people mention how helpful other users of 3D printers are, so we immediately registered on all kinds of Russian and English resources, Facebook and Reddit communities and joined this space .
In most cases, people will come up with the right solution and will be happy to help you try various troubleshooting options.
Not only can they help you with troubleshooting, but they can point you to some fun projects to try, as well as some of the latest innovations in the world of 3D printing.
- Join active Facebook groups on 3D printing and your specific 3D printer.
- Subscribe to news feeds of authoritative 3D printing resources.
- Be sure to check out YouTube 3D printing bloggers who post new interesting content on a regular basis.
- Find groups in Viber and Telegram. This is the fastest way to get an answer to your question.
3. Random entanglement of the filament.
We have read many reviews about 3D printer materials including PLA, ABS, PETG, etc. and some of the negative reviews mention tangled filament.
Unfortunately, in most cases, the thread becomes tangled due to the fault of users.
As a general rule, when the thread is wound onto the spool, there is very little chance of tangling, much more often after you take the spool out of the package.
If you loosen the windings in the winding and then wind the deflated windings back on the spool, you could accidentally wind them unevenly and create an overlap that will ruin your prints.
When you store the filament, make sure that the end is secure and cannot be easily loosened.
If there are already tangles on the spool, unwind enough thread and wind it tightly again so that it does not cross over.
If you are still unlucky, and you have purchased plastic of inadequate quality, during the production of which all technological cards were violated, then here is our advice: buy plastic for a 3D printer from trusted brands. The $100 price difference is infinitesimal compared to all sorts of other 3D printing costs.
However, this 100 UAH will save you not only from problems with overlaps, but also provide a stable diameter and color along the entire length, the absence of ovalities and smooth feeding.
4. Quickly assemble your 3D printer.
We were all very excited when we got our first 3D printer and it came to building it, but being overly excited can cause your 3D printer to build too quickly, resulting in poor print results.
This may not be immediately noticeable and you will get good quality prints within a few months.
What can happen gradually is wear due to incorrect assembly.
Ask yourself these questions before starting your first print.
Was your belt tight? Did you properly and securely fasten each wire? Is the Bowden tube installed correctly?
When it comes to a 3D printer, every little detail counts, so don't fall prey to 3D printing problems due to quick and poor assembly.
Find an authoritative YouTube video tutorial from an experienced 3D printer operator and follow the assembly.
There are always a few little tricks they advise you to do for durability and high quality prints.
Even if you have already built your 3D printer, you can fix some things you may have missed.
The correct and high-quality assembly of a 3D printer actually leads to higher quality prints.
See also: How to set up your new 3D printer.
5. Incorrect table and nozzle height calibration.
Of all the layers in your 3D print, the first layer is the most important and it depends a lot on how well you leveled your platform and set your nozzle height.
It's not as easy as uploading a 3D model, sending it to an SD card and starting printing.
The software side of things is important, but the hardware side is just as important.
Many 3D printers come with manual platform calibration, so you have to raise or lower each corner yourself.
Your 3D printer doesn't have a perfect feedback system, which means it can't always check where the printhead is.
The best he can do is use the X, Y and Z limit switches to make sure the printhead is 0.00mm in each axis.
What your 3D printer is very good at is extremely precise movements in the X, Y and Z axes, but if the nozzle height is not set properly at the beginning, everything falls apart.
The Z axis is height, so the nozzle must be properly adjusted so that it smoothly extrudes the filament along the build surface, not too high and not too low.
- Learn how to manually calibrate the table.
- Once your table is properly calibrated and the nozzle height adjusted, you can expect good prints.
- It might be a good idea for you to invest in an auto leveling system like BLTouch. We at our 3D printing studio in Odessa prefer manual calibration.
6. Using incorrect slicer settings.
The slicer settings you use to print are some of the most important things when it comes to successful 3D printing.
Of the hundreds of setting changes you can make, one wrong setting is enough to ruin your print.
Fortunately, there are printer profiles and default settings that give people a basic starting point for printing.
After a few prints, you will start experimenting with different settings such as temperature, line width, flow rate, and so on.
Some of the erroneous misapplying of incorrect settings is related to changing materials.
Whether PLA or ABS or PLA of different brands and/or colors, temperature recommendations will vary.
Make sure you set them correctly.
Slicer settings can either help you or break your 3D printing, so use them wisely, preferably with some kind of guide.
In most cases, when you load a model from Thingiverse, for example, the designers create a list of settings that usually work well, but don't blindly follow them and be careful.
For example, if you replace a brass nozzle with a hardened steel nozzle, you will need to slightly increase the nozzle temperature because hardened steel does not conduct heat as well as brass.
Another example is your work surface.
If you have added a glass substrate to your 3D printer, you should increase the table temperature to allow for the extra layer of heat transfer material.
- Use calibration models such as speed and temperature towers for each new material.
- Spend a little more time looking at the slicer options to make sure you know what changing a setting will do.
- Repetition is the mother of learning. The more often you type, the faster you will become a pro.
Read also: The best models for 3D printing testing.
7. Using high % infill to reinforce details instead of walls/shells.
For years, most people have tried to reinforce their 3D printed parts with infill. This method definitely does the job, but there is a much more efficient method that has been proven to work much better.
Instead of wasting a lot of material and extra time printing the infill, you should use shells/walls to make the 3D printed part stronger.
In some cases, increasing the percentage of filling does not provide the necessary margin of safety, while increasing the wall thickness allows you to make really reliable and impact-resistant products.
- Instead of adding more infill, add more shells/walls to your prints to make them stronger.
- For a functional 3D printed part requiring strength, about 4-6 walls are recommended.
8. Do not use supports when necessary.
Most people try to avoid the use of auxiliary supports to save time and material, but there are times when their use is necessary.
You can try tilting the prints in a certain way and moving them around the print bed, but sooner or later there will come a point when this approach doesn't work.
Many models are specially designed not to use supports for successful printing, which is very convenient.
On the other hand, some designs are too complex to print without support.
3D printers can't print in the air and large ridges definitely need support structures to extrude the material onto.
Most often you can do without supports on 45° or lower overhangs, but for anything higher it is recommended to use supports.
This is more of a visual skill that, with time and experience, allows you to understand when models need supports and when you can do without them.
Some slicers may not show support in preview, so you'll have to judge for yourself.
- Make sure you don't avoid supports when they're needed, because then you'll just lose overall.
- Use proper part orientation to ensure that your prints use as little backing material as possible.
9. Never replace worn parts.
Although the profile, power supply and stepper motors of your 3D printer are designed to last for several years, other parts are consumables.
These are parts such as belts, nozzles and bearings. Make sure you replace these parts as they wear out.
You may notice a decline in print quality over time and wear and tear on certain parts can definitely be the cause, so check these consumables and replace them as needed.
If you are printing with materials such as ABS, PA12, PC or glow-in-the-dark plastics, the brass nozzles wear out much faster than when printing with traditional materials.
Switching to a hardened steel nozzle is a good idea if you want to print with abrasive materials.
The disadvantage is that it does not have the same level of thermal conductivity as brass nozzles.
Here is a short list of 3D printer parts that wear out over time:
- Thermal barrier;
- PTFE tube;
- Glass platforms;
- Heating block;
You can buy accessories for 3D printers in the corresponding section of our catalog.
- Be aware that some parts will not last forever, so check these parts from time to time and replace them as needed.
- Make sure these components are installed in a way that reduces wear.
- Keep a set of replacement parts on hand in case they fail (nozzles, belts, wiring, PTFE tubing).
- Buy high quality parts designed for a long service life.
10. No 3D printing monitoring.
Whether you have a premium or budget 3D printer, any of them can fail. They can fail within the first few minutes when the first layer is not printing well, or a few hours after printing starts.
In our practice, there have been several cases when checking our printers after a night shift, we found a mess on the work surface and the printer continued to extrude spaghetti plastic.
Monitoring is not a panacea for all problems, but with its help you can stop the process in time and avoid waste of plastic and electricity.
It is recommended to constantly monitor your 3D printers throughout the printing process to make sure everything is in order.
What we absolutely do is monitor the first coat and then come back 15 minutes later to make sure everything is going according to plan.
After that, checking the printers every hour or so is a good idea to control your prints.
- Check the 3D print from time to time to make sure everything goes smoothly.
- Use the camera for remote fingerprint verification with remote power control.
- Be sure to teach others how to stop your 3D printer if necessary.
11. Neglect of safety rules in 3D printing.
Basic precautions are based on burn and fire hazards, mechanical hazards, and injury from tools or melted plastic.
The risk of fire is very rare these days because 3D printers are usually equipped with overheating protection.
Pay attention to burns from hot nozzle or print bed.
We've also heard stories of injuries from the sharp edges of the printer's scraper.
This can be easily avoided if you are careful in your actions.
Removing supports is not the most pleasant and interesting thing to do, but getting cuts or scratches when cleaning parts is even worse.
It is recommended to check the wiring, bolts, belts and all moving parts from time to time so that a potential malfunction can be detected in the future.
Connectors can sometimes fail, so be sure to check these aspects to ensure the 3D printing process runs smoothly and safely.
- Be aware of your surroundings and be safe.
- Do not put your hand too close to the nozzle.
- Do not keep your hand on the platen when taking the print.
- Provide good ventilation.
12. Buying a bad 3D printer out of over-enthusiasm.
We are regularly approached by clients who, on a wave of enthusiasm, bought a cheap 3D printer on Aliexpress or another market place, and this printer does not work.
Spontaneous cheap purchases do not give you time to analyze and compare 3D printer models. In other words, you are making your choice unconsciously.
People have experienced a number of problems, such as the SD card slot not working along with serious difficulties in transferring files over Wi-Fi.
Other options included poorly insulated wires, crooked frames and platforms.
Deformed threaded screws, cheap hot ends, broken parts, poor shipping packaging, poor assembly at the factory are also common when buying cheap “NoName” printers.
You may end up spending most of your time repairing, fixing poor print quality issues, and just getting frustrated with 3D printing.
If you've been one of those unlucky ones, you've probably learned to take your time buying a 3D printer.
One of the most popular manufacturers of inexpensive 3D printers around the world is Creality, and their top product Ender-3 v2.
This 3D printer has been repeatedly tested by users around the world, and its popularity proves the perfect combination of price and quality.
Every 3D company is a team that buys parts and builds a printer, but some do it much better than others and more consistently.
Some people who buy a bad printer either give up 3D printing, do a complete costly rebuild, or buy a better 3D printer much later. You might as well start by buying a good 3D printer!