Jeep wrangler 3d print parts
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riveting for jeans
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JEEP WRANGLER TJ 1997 PRINTABLE CAR BODY
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2011-2018 JK/JKU IMPERIAL AC VENT RING AND LOGO
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Wrangler 1990
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Axial SCX24 Lift Jeep JLU Modular Inner Fenders KIT
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Jeep Wrangler Cookie Cutter
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AUXBEAM SWITCH PANEL UNIVERSAL MOUNT
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Auxbeam 8 gang swith panel BA80/GB80/AR800
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Auxbeam switch panel universal flush trim
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Jeep Keychain
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Bodywork JEEP YJ 1/10 wheelbase 313
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Jeep Wrangler JL Sun Visor Fix
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Jeep Wrangler
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JEEP WRANGLER PEN HOLDER - 3-IN-1
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JEEP WRANGLER YJ 1987 PRINTABLE CAR BODY
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JEEP WRANGLER YJ 1987 PRINTABLE CAR IN SEPARATE PARTS
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Roof rack Model 6
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Jeep Dash Army Duck
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Jeep Angry Eyes Grill Keychain
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Jeep Wrangler 1978-1995 air vent
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Jeep Wrangler V6 3.6L
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Axial SCX24 Diffslider
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Axial SCX24 Antifoams for 56mm Tires
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Axial SCX24 Antifoams for 60-62mm Tires
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Hydroflask Cup Holder Adapter
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Jeep Coin North Carolina Collectible/Tradeable
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Jeep Coin Collectable/Tradable South Carolina
€0.62
Jeep Coin Collectible/Tradeable Tennessee
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Alabama Jeep Coin Collectible/Tradeable
€0.62
Florida Jeep Coin Collectible/Tradeable
€0.62
Georgia Jeep Coin
€0.62
Wrangler JL/Gladiator JT Multi-Mount Phone Holder Storage Adapter
Free
Card Organizer for Bestop Jeep Under Seat Lock Box
Free
Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Willys Wheeler JK 2017 Printable Car
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Jeep Wrangler Switch Panel
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Jeep Wrangler - Window Insert
Free
Jeep Wrangler JL - FOG LIGHT Mount for pod lights 3inch
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Jeep Wrangler JK - Vacuum Pump Relocation Bracket
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JEEP WRANGLER Fog light surrounds
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Jeep Wrangler
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Jeep best 3D printing models・Cults
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SCX24 Performance Bumper with lights for Jeep JLU
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radial rim8 r8cm9 concave19 inches 1/18 1/12 1/24 1/10
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JEEP LOGO
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2011-2018 JK Dash Handle Inlay "BUT DID YOU DIE"
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3D Printed RC Car buggy "Hummgy" by [AN3DRC]
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RC Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 4WD 1:8 3D printed.
Hello everyone! I decided to participate in the competition from filamentarno, and for this article I took my favorite project from the set. This is a radio controlled Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 4WD 1:8.
Bought files for 3D printing at www.3dsets.com. This project was printed on an Anycubic i3 mega 3D printer, with the recommended print settings from the developer of this model.
Looking ahead, if anyone decides to repeat the project, then links to the components that I used will be at the end of the article. And also, if you have any questions, I will leave my VK, Instagram, email to contact me.
So that you understand the scope of this work, I spent half a year on this, 30 bearings and 545 screws m2 and m3, and approximately 4kg of plastic. The dimensions of the model are 51/25/23 cm. Photos and videos will also be presented.
First of all, I look at what is needed for electronics and what is available, and also look at my plastic stocks, evaluate my capabilities in the implementation of the project. After viewing the files for 3D printing, and these are the design features of the model, individual nodes, running and loaded elements, I realized that ordinary plastics are indispensable here!
I made a decision that all gears will be printed with TOTOL CF-5 plastic (carbon-filled (5%) TPU-based composite). This plastic is just great for these purposes. Model body in PLA+ Standard, separate parts in ABS GF-4 (ABS composite reinforced with 4% chopped glass fiber) and some use of Prototyper S-Soft colored SBS plastic.
Plastics were printed according to the manufacturer's recommended parameters.
First of all, I decided to print the gearbox of the model and check its performance with my electric motor, since I used other electronics, and not the one recommended by the developer of this model. Unfortunately, at that time I ran out of TOTAL CF-5, and I printed PETG plastic from another manufacturer.
It was for nothing! And the gearbox did not work for 5 seconds. After opening it, I discovered that the unsealed shafts on which the gears are placed were simply torn apart and the teeth on some gears bounced off, and a little like licked ones.
After the delivery of the necessary plastic, I decided to repeat. The gears were printed in CF-5 and the shafts in GF-4 with 100% fill.
Unfortunately, the photo shows a design printed out of PETG plastic, and of the plastics listed above, the photos are lost, as well as the photo with torn shafts.
Soon the gearbox was successful and I started printing the main body in PLA+. This was the test of patience. In this project, there is just a huge number of details for printing, from small to large in size. I was just on vacation and my printer was running day and night for three weeks. yes, yes, I'm not exaggerating. I even set an alarm for the night to get up, take off the printed parts, and re-put a new seal. That's how I really wanted to implement this project.
By the time the model was assembled, all the necessary components had arrived. When I printed the case, I immediately assembled it.
Next I started printing the chassis of the car. Here, I also used CF-5 for printing bridges, which was a mistake, since during testing some of the loaded elements of the front wheel swivel mechanism were broken, and cardan shafts were also damaged. The decision was made to print everything from ABS GF-4 except the axle gears and wheel axles. Here is such a "DUET" showed itself in the best performance.
In the open spaces of thingiverse, I found an addition to this project and decided to print the driver and his companion, as well as the spare tire from PLA +. The main wheels are rubber commercial, but you can also print FLEX if your 3D printer allows.
To be honest, I thought there would be no end to this project, I did not expect that everything would be so long.
And as soon as I collected everything and tested it, my friend came to visit. Seeing this miracle, he did not believe that it was all printed on a 3D printer. By the way, almost everyone does not believe! A friend used to paint cars in the past and suggested that I paint it. I resisted for a long time! When I remember the whole process of assembling and printing, I get goosebumps. Of course, it could not do without marriage. Either parts were peeling off the table, and all because I used pencil glue, and not 3DM glue, as it is now, or a poorly tuned plastic feed flow. As a result, a decrease in holes and cracking of parts when screwing in screws.
I understood that it was necessary to disassemble the model, then reassemble everything. But in the end I made up my mind. I removed all the elements from the car, printed with white PLA + plastic for painting, and gave it to a friend. Asked to take photos of all processes.
The paint he used was left over from painting his personal car, and he also used paint used in poster modeling. Not without primer and putty in places.
After a couple of weeks, my happiness knew no bounds when he brought everything and I installed it back on the model.
But the story of this project did not end there either!!! Inspired by the result of this work, the devil pulled me to upgrade the model. Since there was a summer version, and an open car, I decided to make it closed. I bought the rest of the files for printing and away we go...
I killed a few more weeks to print and a week to assemble. An upper roof was installed, doors printed with PLA + were replaced, and rims and reinforced bumpers were printed from GF-4 with a front working electric winch installed.
And from colored SBS plastic printed accessories in the form of canisters. Soldering, tuning, adjustment is a separate topic that I will not cover in this article.
After the final assembly of this project in the second version and positive winter tests, my happiness knew no bounds !!! I was happy as a small child with this toy, and the fact that all the work done, half a year long, is so painstaking behind !!!!!!!
The process of 3D printing and assembling this radio controlled car is VERY exciting and will interest both a child and an adult, or you can do it together.
For myself, I understood one thing, and I advise others!!! Use quality plastic for 3D printing, and for its intended purpose.
Therefore, my choice fell on plastics from the company FILAMENTARNO. I trust their product quality 100%.
I also used other composite materials from this manufacturer in my other projects and for other purposes, but that's another story !!!
Good luck everyone and thank you for reading this article! If you leave your comment, then I will be only happy !!!
https://vk.com/id450054487
https://www.instagram.com/aviagorizont_/?hl=en
Bearings. you need 28pcs + 2pcs per winch :
https://gb9vn.app.goo.gl/rgAf
M2 screws. quantity and dimensions in the description with files:
https://gb9vn.app.goo.gl/MuHF
https://gb9vn.app.goo.gl/1Sz8
https://gb9vn.app.goo.gl/KcQ2
Shock absorbers 4 pcs. :
https://gb9vn.app.goo.gl/d7dj
Tires 4 pcs. :
https://gb9vn.app.goo.gl/Xxjj
Servo 1pc. :
https://gb9vn.app.goo.gl/pEoG
I use the engine and governor from a model aircraft! But the creator of this project suggests installing 540 27T:
https://gb9vn. app.goo.gl/CkZH
Battery lipo 2s 60-120C ! approximate compartment for it with dimensions 10.5 \ 3.2 \ 4.5:
https://gb9vn.app.goo.gl/xjkY
I USE THIS KIT!!!!!!!!
Engine:
https://gb9vn.app.goo.gl/mfDd
such a battery:
https://gb9vn.app.goo.gl/gJCL
Such a regulator BUT it will need to be flashed through a PC so that there is + reverse:
https://gb9vn.app.goo.gl/zmdy
I told you how to do this in one of the videos about assembling a tank on my YouTube channel! Come and watch: https://youtu.be/aGPqcaA_hls
If you use a regulator like this, then there will only be forward travel and pay attention to which battery it is 2s or 3s.4s
https://gb9vn.app.goo.gl/vQAm
control equipment (transmitter + receiver)
https://gb9vn.app.goo.gl/8ra9
Lipo battery charger:
https://gb9vn.app.goo.gl/6oMK
lipo storage bag :
https://gb9vn. app.goo.gl/YeUd
XT60 connector:
https://gb9vn.app.goo.gl/Hy91
https://gb9vn.app.goo.gl/LyWR
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