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Idler 3d printer
The Idler Wheel of Your 3D Printer's Thermoplastic Extruder
By: Richard Horne and Kalani Kirk Hausman and
Updated: 09-26-2017
From The Book: 3D Printing For Dummies
3D Printing For Dummies
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Any standard 3D printer's single-grip extruder also needs an idler wheel to push the filament into the teeth of the drive wheel. An idler wheel usually is a round bearing pushed by a spring or a rubber bushing.The following figure shows an idler bearing/wheel fitted to a printed lever; the spring on the left causes the bearing on the right of the image to be pushed into the drive wheel (middle), gripping the filament tightly. With a design using a bearing idler wheel, it must not be overtightened or it will squash rather than grip the filament. If your extruder uses the dual-drive system, in which teeth grip both sides of the filament, the bearing idler wheel is no longer required and the filament is unlikely to be squashed.
The idler wheel is essential and must be tightened just enough for the drive wheel to grip the filament.
Don't overtighten the idler bearing. If the grip on the filament starts to squash it out of shape, the hot-end's thermal gets harder to force down, and it may jam. Check how much the drive wheel is biting into the filament. You should see small, regular marks where the teeth bite in, and the filament shouldn't be crushed.
The hot-end normally is attached to the extruder body with bolts to allow it to be removed if the extruder jams or gets blocked. A finished extruder also requires a heating element on the hot-end, as well as a temperature sensor (see the following figure). This wiring, along with the four motor connections, must go back to the RepRap electronics wiring.
A wired-up hot-end fitted to the motor and drive assembly. This figure shows a complete thermoplastic extruder with a machined gearbox.
Never try to drive the motor or rotate the gears driving the filament if the hot-end isn't at the correct temperature. Doing so can cause the extruder to strip and chew up the filament, and you have to clean the teeth on your drive wheel before you can print again.
A thermoplastic extruder needs to be carefully calibrated to operate well. Extruders are highly active subjects of development for RepRap. Many designs exist, some more specialized than others, offering higher temperature, faster extrusion, or finer detail. Most extruders usually meet the requirements of home 3D printing with thermoplastics.
RepRap extruder designs.
This article is from the book:
- 3D Printing For Dummies ,
About the book authors:
Richard Horne (RichRap) has worked as an engineer, marketer, and product designer.
He blogs and shares ideas on making 3D printing easier for everyone. Kalani Kirk Hausman has experience as an IT consultant, enterprise architect, auditor, and ISO. He conducts research on integrating 3D-printed materials into educational curricula.
This article can be found in the category:
- 3D Printing ,
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Polyester resin experiment
Hello colleagues!
Today I would like to raise the topic of post-processing again, but this time without solvents, primer and in some cases even without paint) an indecent abundance of jars, boxes and bottles, so I decided to diversify this disgrace by printing a cup under all sorts of garbage pens and pencils)
6 hours later (I ventured to put it on at night), such a pencil crock was born:
I’ll make a reservation right away - my printer prints far from well, even very far, because in the future it’s better to assemble a printer, and then I’ll get to Pryusha’s MOT))) ABS plastic (GREG of course) behaves well, stuck to the table notably, printing was successful even without supports, although our experimental subject lost several teeth because of this)))
Printing was done for a couple of days before the installation of new windows in the apartment, so the draft (the printer is in the kitchen by the window) slightly hurt, causing a couple of small delaminations .
.. it was necessary to put a layer of 0.15 instead of 0.2.
I brought this product to the workshop and I'm sitting working, looking at a jar of soil...
'And why? Again you fill it with soil and again you will not write anything on 3DToday, slacker!' - laziness told me and completely repelled the desire to wash the spray gun after the primer :)
Okay, laziness :)
Since I'm working a lot with fiberglass now, why not do an experiment? Why are we worse then? There is resin, everything is there! Fortunately, I was not too lazy to fight off this idea))
I went to the rack and poured a bit of black gelcoat and two bits of polyester resin into a glass.
A bit of theory:
Gelcoat (gelcoat, whatever you want) - essentially the same resin, but it can be of a different composition, and also contains pigment, thixotropic and functional additives. It is a protective/decorative coating for fiberglass products in particular. It can be colored or transparent, as well as for brushing or spraying.
I have for brush application - thicker. An important property is thixotropy, which prevents the composition from draining from inclined surfaces.
Resin - everything is clear here with one exception, it contains paraffin (not in the gel coat), which is released during polymerization and restricts oxygen access, from which the resin is not sticky after solidification.
If I could find my solution of paraffin in styrene, I would make TOPcoat - a non-sticky gelcoat that is used as a paint for finished products.
As a result, the resin will give paraffin, and the gelcoat will give density... a wonderful duet!))
Moving on.
Cut off half of the bristles of the brush to apply the mixture more gently)
This potion will spread well due to the fluidity of the resin, have color due to the pigment and will not flow down much due to the part of the gelcoat ... theoretically everything is fine, let's get down to practice .
After adding about a couple of percent of the hardener, then mixing thoroughly, I started applying ... first with a 'stingy' brush, smearing the mixture dryly over the surface, and then more abundantly, filling the ribbing, smoothing out the places with an excess of 'mazyuki' with light strokes :)
Don't torture yourself with guesses - I didn't do anything with the skull at all, neither sanded nor glued the delaminations - I left everything to 'eat up' the mazuk))) I just screwed in three self-tapping screws so that poor Yorick would have 'legs';))
The result is visible in the photo - everything was covered with a smear, only traces of brush strokes remained, well, okay, this is an experiment) the composition became slightly matte, not sticky at all, you can see a slight ribbing on the forehead.
'What? Like everything?! Did you take a picture of the skull, throw it into the article and be proud of yourself? Let's work on your ugliness, slacker!' - inspiration said, kicking me to the rack in search of sandpaper)
At the same time I remembered:
But my misfortune, friends, is one: cat:
- Sit down, brave hussar, on a horse,
And show off your talents a little! (c)
After rubbing just a couple of minutes with FINE-type sandpaper, the traces of ribbing disappeared instantly.
I took SUPER FINE and lightly ran over the whole skull to 'fill the risk', so to speak, because an idea appeared:
And what's next? And then you can dump it in the ground and put it on a shelf...
Although no, not that, I'll just paint it... or... not just...
there is also exotic)
To do this, you need to polish the skull sloppily to create 'wear from time to time'. Degrease afterwards necessarily)
And now chrome effect paint and an airbrush come into play :) Not to be confused with paint in cans, that's not it.
At a minimum flow with high pressure, light spraying, our skull acquires a metallic sheen)
The trick of the paint is that the better the surface shines, the steeper the mirror effect up to almost a mirror.
As I wanted - allegedly a metal casting, carelessly sanded and slightly polished in protruding places) Add a little 'darkness' to the cavities and between the teeth and it's indistinguishable from an old garage trophy!) Although the employees did not believe that it was plastic, until they looked inside and below))
That's all, dear friends, below will be thoughts aloud, because it's not so often that we have to talk meaningfully about this and that, and draw conclusions about the same)
Will I use this technique in the future? Undoubtedly! I liked this experiment and its result) Maybe not everywhere, maybe partially, but it's quite a suitable solution, it worked for me)
Does ABS resin eat? Yes, without a doubt.
