Hot ends for 3d printers

3D Printer Hot-Ends - 3DJake International

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• Creality Hotend 23 Model types
  • Original spare part
  • From Creality

• Micro-Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit for CR-​10
  • All metal
  • Better heat dissipation
  • No adjustments required

• Phaetus Dragonfly Hotend BMS
  • Temperature resistance up to 500 ° C
  • All-metal design
  • Good heat dissipation

• BROZZL All Metal Hot-​End Upgrade Kit for Ender & CR-​10
  • Easy to use
  • Fast assembly
  • Precise manufacturing

• E3D V6 Silicone Socks 1 set
  • Non-stick surface
  • For V6 heating blocks
  • Keeps your heating block clean

• Phaetus Dragonfly Hotend BMO
  • Temperature resistance up to 500 ° C
  • All-metal design
  • Good heat dissipation

• Micro-Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit for CR-​10S Pro
  • All Metal Hotend
  • Better heat dissipation
  • Can be used without any modifications

• Slice engineering Mosquito
  • Perfect heat transfer
  • Temperatures up to 450 ° C possible
  • Flexible installation

• Micro-Swiss Silicone Socks Set for MK7 / MK8 / MK9 1 set
  • High-temperature resistant
  • Set of 3
  • Non-stick

• E3D Revo Six 2 Model types
  • Direct replacement for E3D V6 Hotend
  • Including a 0. 4 mm nozzle
  • All-metal hotend

• Micro-Swiss High Temperature MK8 Heating Block Upgrade
  • M6 thread size
  • Special alloy
  • High printer compatibility

• E3D Revo Micro Full Kit 2 Model types
  • Complete set including 4 nozzles
  • Compatible with Bowden or Direct Drive setup
  • Small & light heat sink

• E3D V6 All-​Metal Hotend Bowden -​ 1.75 mm 4 Model types
  • High temperature performance
  • All-Metal
  • Compact design

• Creality Hot-​end incl. Fan and holder for CR-​10S
  • Original spare part

• E3D V6 Plated Copper Heater Block
  • Good high-temperature performance
  • Softening point well over 500 ° C
  • Less sticking

• Anycubic Hotend 9 Model types
  • Original spare part
  • By Anycubic

• Micro-Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit for the CR-​6 SE
  • Titanium alloy heat break
  • Well defined melting zone
  • Aluminium heating block

• Creality Heatsink 5 Model types
  • Original spare part
  • From Creality 3D

• E3D Prusa V6 Hotend 3 Model types
  • Replacement hotend
  • With V6 parts
  • Improved version

• Phaetus Rapido Plus Hotend HF
  • Uniform heating
  • Thin-walled heatbreak
  • Different printheads

• Slice engineering Mosquito Magnum
  • High printing speed
  • Temperatures up to 450 ° C possible
  • Flexible installation

• E3D Revo CR Full Kit 2 Model types
  • Simple and quick nozzle change by hand
  • Incl. 4 Revo nozzles
  • Increased efficiency & safety

• Termopasty AG Silver Thermal Paste 4 Model types
  • Thermally conductive
  • Addition of silver compounds
  • Fills in micro intolerances

• Phaetus Dragon Hotend UHF
  • Ultra-high-speed printing
  • Thin titanium alloy heatbreak
  • Nozzle change with one hand

All prices incl. VAT.

The 7 Best 3D Printer Hot Ends (All-Metal!) – Clever Creations

When it comes to 3D printing, the hot end is one of the most important components. It’s responsible for melting and extruding the filament, so it’s crucial that you have a good one.

In this article, we’ll discuss some of the best 3D printer hot ends on the market. We’ll also give you a few tips on how to choose the right one for your needs. So, without further ado, let’s get started!

3D Printer Hot End	Max. Temp	Filament Dia.	Voltage(s)	Price (~)	Best Offer
E3D V6	300 °C	1.75 mm, 2.85 mm	12V, 24V	$59 and up	Amazon
Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit	300 °C	1.75 mm	24V	$63	MatterHackers
E3D RapidChange Revo	300 °C	1.75 mm	12V, 24V	$88 and up	E3D
Slice Engineering Mosquito	500 °C	1. 75 mm	12V, 24V	$145	MatterHackers
E3D Supervolcano Upgrade Kit	300 °C	1.75 mm, 2.85 mm	12V, 24V	$96 and up	E3D
DyzEnd PRO	500 °C	1.75 mm	12V, 24V	$130	MatterHackers
Phaetus Dragonfly Hot End	500 °C	1.75 mm	12V, 24V	$69	BIQU

What is the hot end in a 3D printer?

A hot end is the heating element in a 3D printer. It comprises several parts, including the heating element, nozzle, heat sink, and heat break.

The heating element is responsible for heating the filament to its melting point. The nozzle is a small hole through which the molten filament is extruded. And finally, the heat break limits the amount of heat that transfers to the heat sink.

These elements work together to provide an even flow of melted material and give you a smooth 3D printing experience.

What makes a good hot end?

The best 3D printer hot ends have good heat management, durability, material compatibility, and material flow rate. They minimize heat creep and maintain a stable printing temperature during extended 3D printing times. A stable hot end temperature reduces the chances of the hot end clogging up and prevents print failures.

A hot end with a high flow rate lets you print at faster print speeds and larger layer heights. This reduces print times and creates a strong 3D printed part.

Another aspect you need to consider is the material composition of the hot end. 3D printer hot ends with brass nozzles are not the best for printing with abrasive materials. Instead, you should look for hot ends with stainless steel or hard-coated nozzles. These nozzles are more wear-resistant and can handle abrasive materials better.

Similarly, if you want a hot end for 3D printing high temperature (>300°C) filaments, you are best off with a hot end with a copper-plated heater block, a high-powered heater cartridge, and a thermocouple. These hot ends can handle the higher temperatures required for printing with polycarbonate, PEEK, and other engineering-grade filaments.

The Best All-Metal 3D Printer Hot Ends in 2022

E3D V6

Best overall

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AmazonE3DMatterHackers

E3D manufactures some of the highest quality hot ends and the E3D V6 is one such example of that. It is simple yet effective and delivers excellent printing performance. It is suitable for both direct and Bowden drive extruders, and you can further customize it for your 3D printer directly through E3D’s website.

The E3D V6 is an all-metal hot end capable of reaching temperatures of up to 300 °C in the standard configuration. The cartridge-style heating block facilitates the easy removal of heater cartridges and thermistors for easy installation and maintenance. Its heatbreak is designed to maintain consistent and accurate temperature in longer prints.

As with all E3D products, the V6 has excellent community support, ensuring that you can quickly resolve any issues. Overall, it is a superb hot end that will take care of most of your printing needs and is suitable for hobbyists and professionals alike.

Standout Features

• All-metal heatbreak
• Cartridge style heating block
• Simple design

Technical Details
Maximum temperature	300 °C
Filament diameter	1.75 mm, 2.85 mm
Available voltages	12V, 24V

What We Like

• Excellent printing performance
• Available in several configurations
• Excellent community support

Could Be Better

• Big form factor

Find E3D V6 at

AmazonE3DMatterHackers

Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit

Best hot end for Ender 3

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AmazonMatterHackers

The Micro Swiss hot end is an upgraded version of the stock hot end for Creality 3D printers. You can install it directly on the default setup of CR-10 and Ender 3 series 3D printers without any extra mounting systems and brackets.

The Micro Swiss comes with a similar appearance to the stock Ender setup, albeit delivering improved performance. You get a titanium heat break that does an excellent job in thermally separating the hot and cold regions of the hot end resulting in a more defined melt zone.

You will need to recalibrate your retraction settings and ensure proper assembly of this hot end, however. Set it up correctly, and the Micro-swiss hot end is an excellent upgrade for anyone who wants to print high-temperature materials on a budget.

Standout Features

• Aluminum heater block
• Titanium heat break
• Brass plated MK8 nozzle

Technical Details
Maximum temperature	300 °C
Filament diameter	1. 75 mm
Available voltages	24V

What We Like

• Easy to use with Creality printers
• Good build quality
• Good customer support

Could Be Better

• Requires tweaking
• Potential retraction and leakage issues

Find Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit at

AmazonMatterHackers

E3D RapidChange Revo

Best high-end

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E3DMatterHackers

Swapping out a 3D printer nozzle can be a labor-intensive process and result in significant downtimes in your 3D printing process. To speed this process up, the E3D Rapid Change Revo comes with a unique design that lets you quickly change your nozzles without any tools.

It features a design similar to the E3D V6 hot end but in a more compact and lightweight form factor. The hot end comes with a redesigned heating block that is engineered for safety and maximum heating performance. The Revo is compatible with most high-temperature materials and delivers superb print quality out of the box.

You can get the hot end in three configurations – Revo Micro, Revo Six, and the Revo Hemera. Each version is developed for different use cases. Together, the Revo Rapid change system covers a wide range of 3D printing applications.

A RapidChange Revo hot end is well-suited for professional users who are looking for the best hot ends with easy maintenance.

Standout Features

• Quick-swappable nozzles
• Lightweight design
• Fast heating times

Technical Details
Maximum temperature	300 °C
Filament diameter	1.75 mm
Available voltages	12V, 24V

What We Like

• Compact form factor
• Faster print speeds
• Easy maintenance

Could Be Better

• Limited nozzle options
• Pricy nozzles
• Not compatible with 2. 85 mm filament

Find E3D RapidChange Revo at

E3DMatterHackers

Slice Engineering Mosquito

Best for high-temperature filaments

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AmazonMatterHackers

The Slice Mosquito hot end comes with a unique design that separates it from other hot ends. The heater block is entirely separated from the frame of the hot end with the help of four support rods. It helps to eliminate heat creep and improves thermal performance.

This design allows the hot end to be highly compact and lightweight, resulting in extra vertical height and faster print speeds. Its rigid construction allows for one-handed nozzle changes making maintenance an easy task.

In contrast to the previously mentioned hot ends, the Slice Mosquito is rated to print at high temperatures of up to 500 °C, covering filaments such as PEEK, ULTEM, and PPSU.

At a starting price point of $144.99, it is certainly not for budget 3D printer users. However, the Slice Engineering Mosquito hot end is ideal for professionals who need a high-performance hot end that delivers excellent print quality and broad material compatibility.

Standout Features

• Unique design
• High printing temperatures
• High structural rigidity

Technical Details
Maximum temperature	500 °C
Filament diameter	1.75 mm
Available voltages	12V, 24V

What We Like

• Lightweight and compact design
• No heat creep
• Compatible with majority of FDM 3D printers

Could Be Better

• No liquid cooling option

Find Slice Engineering Mosquito at

AmazonMatterHackers

E3D Supervolcano Upgrade Kit

Best for large 3D printers

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AmazonE3DMatterHackers

The E3D Supervolcano upgrade kit is specifically designed for fast printing of large objects. It delivers up to 11x more volumetric flow rate than regular E3D V6 hot ends. This lets you 3D print at higher speeds with large layer heights and widths.

Wider layers allow for better interlayer adhesion resulting in a stronger 3D printed part. While 3D print strength is something you can also increase by choosing the strongest infill pattern and strongest filament, printing wider layers gives you another option to do so.

The Supervolcano can reach a maximum print temperature of 300 °C, letting you print with materials like PLA, ABS, PETG, and TPU. It is fully compatible with various other E3D hot ends and extruders, so you can easily upgrade your default setup to a Supervolcano.

This is the best 3D printer hot end for a large format 3D printer to carry out high-volume printing. If your printing workflow consists of large-scale and high-volume 3D printed parts, the Supervolcano kit is crucial in reducing your 3D printing times.

Standout Features

• 11x volumetric flow rate (compared to V6)
• Copper plated heat break
• Readily compatible with E3D hot ends

Technical Details
Maximum temperature	300 °C
Filament diameter	1. 75 mm, 2.85 mm
Available voltages	12V, 24V

What We Like

• High filament melting rate
• Suitable for large objects
• Option for second thermistor

Could Be Better

• Reduces print height
• Increased chances of thermal runaway and safety issues

Find E3D Supervolcano Upgrade Kit at

AmazonE3DMatterHackers

DyzEnd PRO

Most durable nozzle

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MatterHackers

The DyzEnd Pro hot end is a high-performance hot end developed for a professional workflow. It comes in a lightweight and compact design that takes up less space.

This hot end comes with a tungsten carbide nozzle with excellent wear resistance. This means you can use the DyzEnd PRO for 3D printing abrasive materials, like carbon fiber or glow-in-the-dark filament, without fear of it wearing out.

Its all-metal heat zone and steel heater block ensure that you can print materials up to 500°C with ease. You can also quickly cold swap the nozzle on the DyzEnd Pro for less downtime and easy repairability.

It is a superb hot end meant for serious professionals who regularly print with high-temperature materials. If you’re looking for a lightweight, robust and good quality hot end for your 3D printing workflow, the DyzEnd Pro is one of the best hot ends available.

Standout Features

• Cold swappable nozzle design
• High maximum temperature
• Liquid cooling ready

Technical Details
Maximum temperature	500 °C
Filament diameter	1.75 mm
Available voltages	12V, 24V

What We Like

• Fast printing speeds
• Increased durability with abrasive filaments
• Compatible with different temperature sensors

Could Be Better

• Limited nozzle sizes
• Requires considerable fine-tuning

Find DyzEnd PRO at

MatterHackers

Phaetus Dragonfly Hot End

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AmazonBIQU

The Phaetus Dragonfly hot end is an all-metal hot end designed for hobbyists and professionals. It uses copper alloy material for its heat sink for better heat dissipation. The Dragonfly also lets you print at up to 500 °C, making it one of the cheaper 3D printer hotends that can reach these high temperatures.

This hotend has a smooth inner surface that aids in getting an uninterrupted filament flow. Its conical heat break designs allow fast heat dissipation, maintaining good thermal separation and a stable melt zone.

Compared to the other hot ends that can reach 500 °C on this list, the Dragonfly is reported to come with more quality control issues. This is something that can be expected given its low price but it is still something we think you should be aware of.

The Dragonfly Hot end comes in two variations suitable for Creality and Prusa 3D printers. It is ideal for individuals who need a high-temperature hot end that’s easy to use and comes at a budget price.

Standout Features

• All-metal design
• Conical heat break
• Copper alloy construction

Technical Details
Maximum temperature	500 °C
Filament diameter	1. 75 mm
Available voltages	12V, 24V

What We Like

• Excellent heat dissipation
• High printing temperature
• Relatively low price

Could Be Better

• Quality control issues
• Inconsistent printing performance

Find Phaetus Dragonfly Hot End at

AmazonBIQU

Buyer’s Guide – How to Choose a 3D Printer Hot End

3D Printer Compatibility

Hot ends are not a generic component and are often designed for a specific set of 3D printers. Checking the hot end’s compatibility with your 3D printer is essential for getting the best results. It will ensure that you get the right hot end that supports your 3D printer’s hardware and electronics.

One of the things to look for is the heater cartridge voltage on the hot end. It has to match the printer’s voltage to ensure proper heating of the hot end.

You also need a mounting system for the hotend. Any additional mounting plates and hardware will translate to an increase in the cost, even though you can 3D print these yourself sometimes.

Material Compatibility

A hot end with wide material compatibility is always a good thing to have. This allows you to experiment with different materials and find the ones that work best for your needs.

The most important thing to look for is the maximum temperature that the hot end can reach. This number will give you a good idea of the range of materials that the hot end can work with.

Typical all-metal hot ends can reach up to 300 °C and can easily print most thermoplastics. This range covers PLA, ABS, PETG, Nylon, and flexible filaments like TPU and TPE.

If you need to print high-performance plastics such as PEEK, ULTEM, Polycarbonate, and PEI, you will need a hot end that has a maximum printing temperature of 500 °C.

High-performance hot ends will be more expensive than the basic ones and might not yield good results when printing at lower temperatures. If you primarily print with materials that melt below the 300 °C points, basic all-metal hot ends like the E3D V6 and the Microswiss should be enough for you.

Nozzle Compatibility

A nozzle is an important component of the hot end assembly. Nozzles are designed with their hot end’s specifications in mind. The nozzle you use defines the printing capability and material compatibility of your hot end.

A larger nozzle size will let you print fast and with large layers, while a fine nozzle is suitable for printing detailed parts. Both can be properties to look for when looking to make money with your 3D printer.

Similarly, a nozzle’s material will also affect the print quality. Nozzles made from stainless steel can handle higher temperatures and are more wear-resistant. As a result, they can last longer, but they might not be the best choice for printing with PLA.

On the other hand, brass nozzles are a good all-around choice and can be used with most materials. If you are unsure about the material of the nozzle, always check with the hot end’s manufacturer.

Due to the hot end’s design, nozzles aren’t interchangeable between 3D printer hot ends from different brands. For example, the DyzEnd nozzle is specific to the DyzEnd Pro hot end. Similarly, the E3D Supervolcano exclusively supports E3D nozzles of sizes 0.6 mm – 1.2 mm.

If you 3D print with parts of varying layer heights and with different materials, you need to ensure that you get a hot end that’s compatible with various nozzle sizes and materials.

Build Quality

A hot end is the critical component of the 3D printer and is responsible for extruding the filament smoothly. A poorly manufactured hot end will lead to many issues down the line.

Nozzle clogs, hot end jamming, filament leakage, and improper filament flow all indicate poor hot end build quality.  These issues can be frustrating and time-consuming to deal with. Checking the user reviews before you purchase the hot end will give you a better idea about its build quality.

Cheaper hot ends tend to have poor overall quality and while they might work well in the beginning, they can experience many issues after prolonged use.On the other hand, a well-manufactured hot end will have a high upfront cost and give you consistent printing performance and a high-quality experience.

Should You Buy an All-Metal Hotend or Not?

All-metal hot ends are helpful for printing materials like ABS, PETG, and Nylon. Where PTFE-lined hotends are only suitable for printing up to around 250°C, an all-metal hot end typically reaches temperatures of either 300°C or 500°C

These temperatures are more than enough for printing a wider variety of materials. The all-metal design also eliminates the need to replace the PTFE liner in the hotend over time, as the PTFE tube is no longer exposed to extreme temperatures.

However, the all-metal design can create more filament jamming issues when not configured correctly. A shorter retraction distance helps to minimize stringing and consequently prevent filament jams, however.

If you plan on printing with a lot of different materials or if you want to experiment with higher temperatures, an all-metal hot end is a good investment. Otherwise, a PTFE-lined hot end will suffice for most applications.

That said, you can’t ever go wrong with an all-metal hotend upgrade. If you simply want the best 3D printer hot end for your machine, all-metal is the way to go.

FAQ

When should I replace my 3D printer hot end?

There’s no need to replace your 3D printer hot end unless you’re looking for an upgrade to get better performance. You might have to periodically replace certain components, like the nozzle, when they wear out, however.

If you are experiencing issues with your prints, then it may be time to check your hot end for any damage or debris that may be causing problems.

Is an all-metal hot end good for PLA?

Yes. While all-metal hotends are ideal for higher-temperature filaments, they can also be used with lower-temperature filaments like PLA. Some users find that they get better results using an all-metal hotend with PLA than they do with a standard hotend with PTFE lining.

What type of hotend does the Ender 3 use?

The Ender 3 uses a PTFE-lined hot end, which allows for smoother filament flow and reduced clogging. PTFE is a low-friction material that is resistant to wear and tear, making it an ideal choice for a hot end.

If you want to upgrade your Ender 3 hot end, the Microswiss is one of the best hot ends to swap the stock one out with.

Which hot end is best?

In our opinion, the E3D V6 hotend is currently the overall best hot end on the market. It is made of high-quality materials and has a modular design that makes it easy to assemble and maintain. It also has a wide range of compatibility with different types of printers, making it a popular choice for both beginners and experienced users.

Conclusion

Choosing the right hot end for your 3D printer will extend your printing potential. The best 3D printer hot end minimizes heat creep while maintaining a stable printing temperature. However, you need to check that the hot end you select fits your 3D printing needs and is compatible with your 3D printer.

The E3D V6 hot end ranks on the top as the best 3D printer hot end. It is one of the most reliable hotends that has been well-tested over the years and is suitable with a good of materials. It has an all-metal design, broad 3D printer compatibility, and excellent build quality at a reasonable price.

Its only drawback is its limited range of printing materials. With a maximum temperature of 300°C, it won’t handle true engineering materials like PEEK.

This is where the Slice Engineering Mosquito and the DyzEnd Pro hot end step in. These are rated to print up to 500 °C and come with unique designs with elegant features.

So, what is the best 3D printer hot end for you? It depends on your specific needs. Consider the type of materials you want to print with, your budget, and your 3D printer compatibility when making your decision.

Let us know your experience if you’ve used any of these hot ends. We’d love to hear if you have anything else to add in the comments below.

3D Printing: All About Heatle

The heating of plastic filaments in specialized printers equipped with heated extruders and print beds creates the basis for the formation of products from molten filaments, also known as 3D printing.

Currently, 3D printers are being used to create tools, camera equipment, medical models, phones and tech accessories, home decor items, toys, and fashion, just to name a few. The applications for 3D printing are almost limitless. nine0003

Since 2009, when the main patent for portable 3D printers expired, 3D printing has grown into an industry of its own. As a result, 3D printers are one of the defining products of our time.




3D printers are now being used to create just about anything you can imagine - tools, camera equipment, medical models, phone and personal technology accessories, home decor, toys, and fashion, just to name a few. Its applications are almost endless. Theoretically, any solid object can be made with 3D printing. Although some limitations in technology prevent printing in certain sizes and materials, research and development is rapidly expanding the possibilities. nine0003

The most popular type of 3D printing is Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM). Modeling the product on the printer is done by melting and extruding a spool of plastic filament through the nozzle as it moves up, down and across the specified XYZ coordinates.

Creating a product using the FDM process looks something like this:

• 3D model created using software.
• The model is exported as a stereolithography file (.stl format) and then imported into the slicing software. nine0019
• The file is split into product layers and specific tool paths are generated.
• The design is sent to the printer.

Within minutes - or possibly hours or days, depending on the size and complexity of the part - the part is made by additive manufacturing.

3D printing heater

3D objects are made by melting, molding and cooling plastic.

Several key components create and manage heat in an FDM printer: nine0003

• Extruder.
• Work table.
• Multi-layer cooling fan.

A closer look at each of them will explain how they affect the print result.

Extruder.

The extruder is where most of the printer technology resides. It consists of a cold end that pulls the filament through the system and a hot end that melts the filament as it is extruded. nine0003

Inside the hot end of the extruder is a heating block. As a rule, this is an aluminum element with a hole for a cartridge heating element. The heating element melts the filament as it passes through the heat pipe and reaches the nozzle.

The extruder also has a fan heatsink. This cooling element helps prevent heat from entering parts of the extruder that need to be kept at cooler temperatures.

Another element of the extruder worth mentioning is the thermistor or thermocouple. This temperature sensor detects and helps regulate the temperature of the hot end. nine0003

Work table.

The desktop is the surface on which the filament is deposited in a predetermined form during the printing process. Most PCBs are heated to prevent the plastic from cooling too quickly and deforming the product. Printtables typically maintain temperatures somewhere between 50 and 100°C. Specific temperature requirements depend on what type of plastic is being used.

Some printers do not have heated stages. These machines are limited in the materials they can print with. Also, materials may not adhere to these layers and melted parts are more likely to pop out of the middle of the print. nine0003

Multi-layer cooling fan.

The cover fan cools the plastic after exiting the nozzle. This element helps the created product to keep its shape when printed.

Heat control: solving heating problems

Since 3D printing is so dependent on heating temperature, any temperature issues can easily disrupt the entire process. Common problems encountered in 3D printing include

• Thermal creep
• Deformation and bending.
• Melted or deformed articles.
• Cracks on the sides of the taller item.
• Slope or bend at the bottom (elephant foot).
• Blurry or undefined first layer.

Manufacturers can face such problems due to non-ideal temperatures.




As 3D printing research and development continues, advanced technology offers even more precise control over higher temperatures, producing high-quality printed products from difficult-to-work materials.

Thermal creep

Heat creep occurs when heat is distributed unevenly through the hot end of the extruder. This happens when the filament cools as it is extruded and heat travels up the thermal barrier tube. This will cause the filament to heat up and swell too early and stick to the walls of the thermal barrier tube. Heat creep can cause clogs that stop printing, and such clogs are difficult to remove. nine0003

As a result, thermal barrier tubes are often designed to prevent thermal creep. The teeth or filaments in the pipe help prevent heat from entering places where it is not needed. In addition, there are several preventive measures that can be taken to prevent a negative effect.

• First, ceramic insulation tape must be added around the heater block.
• Second, when the printer is not printing, do not leave it hot. nine0019
• Third, avoid using low quality filament that may expand unevenly.
• Finally, if possible, always unload the filament when printing is complete.

Deformation and bending.

Product distortion occurs when the plastic is cooled too quickly after extrusion. Because the plastic shrinks slightly when cooled, rapid cooling can cause the plastic to bend as it solidifies. nine0003

Warping can be prevented by keeping the plastic just below its melting point on the print bed. If warping occurs, the temperature of the print engine may need to be increased.

Melted or deformed seal.

Excessive heat is to blame when printed pieces look saggy. FDM printing requires a precise balance between a temperature that allows good flow and a temperature that ensures fast curing. nine0003

To fix melted prints, adjust the temperature settings . First, make sure the temperature is within the appropriate parameters for the material. Then try decreasing the nozzle temperature by 5°C at a time.

Cracks on sides of higher prints.

Sometimes when the higher pieces are 3D printed, cracks can appear between some of the higher layers. This is because these layers too far away from the heat of the printed layer . After extrusion, the filament cools too quickly and is not as tacky as it should be. This results in small spaces or cracks between the layers.

To prevent the filament from cooling too quickly, try to increase the temperature of the extruder by about 10°C.

Slope or bend at the base.

Bending or warping near the base of printed objects occurs when the weight of the model presses on the lower layers before they cool down properly.

This deformation of the lower layers is eliminated by faster cooling. This can be achieved by lowering the platen temperature by 5°C at a time until the desired results are achieved.

Blurry and undefined first layer.

Sometimes the first layer can be blurry. When this happens, the corners feel vague and the filaments look messy. This usually happens because0048 The print bed is too hot and this causes the plastic to lose its shape.

The solution to this problem is probably pretty obvious. It may be necessary for to reduce the temperature of the platen by 5°C at a time until the desired results are achieved.




The threads come in a variety of colors and textures and offer effects ranging from glow in the dark to the look and smell of wood. nine0094

Material temperature limits

There are several filament options for . The threads come in a variety of colors, textures and offer effects ranging from glow in the dark to the look and smell of wood. An important part of mastering the use of these different materials is understanding the specific temperature requirements for each material. Failure to comply with these parameters may result in any of the temperature related problems mentioned. nine0003

Higher temperatures equals more features . When 3D printers can maintain higher temperatures during production, more filament options become available. However, working at higher temperatures requires special technology in a 3D printer.

For example, it is not uncommon for extruder hot ends to be made up of both metal and polyetheretherketone (PEEK) or polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE). While PEEK and PTFE provide excellent insulation, they limit the hot end temperature to no more than 240°C. However, when all-metal hot ends are used, temperatures can be effectively maintained above 300°C. This opens the door to the use of a range of different materials. nine0003

New developments in FDM technology are paving the way for even higher temperatures during 3D printing. Last year, a 3D printer manufacturer introduced a line of high-temperature printer components that allow the hot ends of an extruder to reach temperatures in excess of 400°C. Printtables on the same devices can reach temperatures in excess of 200°C.

Ideal temperatures for various materials:

Polylactic acid (PLA)

Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS)

Polyamide (nylon)

Polyethylene terephthalate (PET / PETG / PETT)

Acrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate (ASA)

Polypropylene (pp)

Thermoplastic elastomer (TPE)

Thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU)

Wooden Threads

Polycarbonate

Polyvinyl alcohol (PVA)

As 3D printing research and development continues, the improved technology continues to offer even finer control over higher temperatures. These advances produce high-quality prints with difficult-to-work materials. We are excited to see what the future holds for 3D printing. Who knows what materials we will be able to print in 10 or 20 years? nine0003

Heating elements for the printer extruder (mini cartridge heating elements) and for the work table can be purchased from Heathl directly from the manufacturer. Contact us by phone or via the feedback form.

How to print flexible materials on a conventional FDM printer? Likbez from the company REK.

Along with beautiful photos and interesting videos, where someone prints high-quality models with flexible material on a regular FDM printer without any problems, there are many questions and messages on the Internet, such as “How to print with flex?”, “I generally have flex doesn’t work, what should I do?” etc. nine0003

In short, the average picture looks something like this:

It's time to end this. Likbez from the company "REK".

Foreword.

For flex printing, it is important to observe some points. Alas, not all 3D printer manufacturers create their product with the ability to print with flexible materials. But after all, you already have such a powerful tool as a 3D printer, on which you can print any desired part, so it's time to put the old joke “buy a 3D printer - print a 3D printer” into practice. The entire printer will most likely not need to be printed, but a quick and easy tuning will be needed. nine).

Hardware. extruder. The most common problem is that the extruder chews up the rod and it looks something like this (the problem area is circled):

No matter how carefully and accurately you push the flex into the extruder, after 5 seconds or after 5 minutes, it still chews up. This happens because there is a gap between the feed rollers and the entrance to the hot end or tube (bowden) channel in which the flexible rod will jam (YES, even if it is a very small gap. YES, even if there is only a couple of mm). nine0003

Familiar ABS and PLA are quite hard, they are difficult to crumple even in a centimeter gap. Flexible plastic should not be left even the slightest opportunity to go somewhere “not there”, so this gap in the extruder must be removed. For RepRap owners, this will not be difficult at all, because. they probably already have tuning experience; in free catalogs of 3D models (such as thingiverse or youmagine or myminifactory) everything has already been invented before us and there are already ready-made models of modified extruders or parts for tuning existing ones. In general, the new extruder will be different in this:

Here are some examples of tuning extruders for different printers:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:247024 - Solid Dulls and analogues

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:191503 - Printbots (master kits)

http://www.thingiverse. com/thing:16319 - MK9 Extruders

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:231310 - Replicator 1, Duplicator 4

http://www.thingiverse.com /thing:18875 - Makerbot variant

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:553917 - DaVinci

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:391803 - 3DRag

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:550788 - Robo3D

https://www.youmagine.com/designs /um2-feeder-sp3d-version - Ultimeker 2

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:99395 - Orca 0.43

Add to the list in the comments :) Hardware #2. Hot end. (Let's give this thing a normal Russian name). Not all “hot ends” (hot ends) are equally useful and this needs to be corrected. nine0003

This moment, by the way, concerns not only flexible rods, but also often causes difficulties when printing PLA.

The essence of the problem lies in the fact that the bar, getting into the hot end, begins to melt even before it reaches the nozzle, and a so-called “plug” from the material melt appears, which is not easy to push through. If a rigid PLA rod can still push through the melt due to the power of the extruder, then such a trick will not work with a flexible material - it will wrinkle, bend and curl even in those places where it seemed impossible. Very often, owners of 3D printers in frustration call such a situation “nozzle clogged”, although this is not entirely true. nine0003

The picture below shows a schematic of a hot end. Where the color indicates the normal state of the bar during the printing process. (blue indicates where the rod is still hard, red indicates where it begins to melt)

In this state, the plastic will exit the nozzle quite calmly without any difficulty, but if the heat goes higher, the rod will begin to melt earlier (in the cold zone) and will create additional resistance for the extruder. Solution: cool the top of the hot end by any means. Put the fan on the hot end, smear the heatsink (if any) with thermal paste at the junction with the hot parts, make the air flow directed (to the hot end), etc.

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