Flsun cube 3d printer review

Flsun Super Racer (SR) Review: Fast Delta 3D Printer

The Flsun Q5 was my first delta 3D printer, and it performed well considering the price point. But this changes today, with the new Flsun Super Racer (also known as Flsun SR). This is the newest delta offering from Flsun, boasting fast printing speeds and larger build volume.

Flsun Super Racer Shipping and Packaging

The packaging for the Flsun Super Racer is compact compared to other 3D printers, while providing good protection on all sides. Thick foam is used to keep all the parts safe during shipping. Even though my box had some shipping damage, I did not encounter any issues with the included parts.

With the Flsun Super Racer, you get the following accessories:

200g spool of white PLA filament
Manual
Spool holder
Clippers
Spare hotend (nozzle, heatblock and heat break)
Spare PTFE tube
Spare thermistor
Spare heater cartridge
Needle for nozzle clogs
USB Card Reader with 2GB MicroSD Card (no name – I recommend using a better one)
Bag of screws and wires
Scraper
Hex wrenches
Zip ties
Power cable
USB Cable
Grease tube
Printed clips

I really like the whole accessories package you get with the Flsun SR, and the inclusion of a spare hotend with heater cartridge and thermistor is a welcome addition. This way, you have a spare if something goes wrong with the printer, minimizing downtime.

Assembly of the Flsun Super Racer

Assembling the Flsun Super Racer takes around 45 minutes. The installation steps are detailed in the assembly guide, making it really easy to put together, even by a total beginner. When assembled, you only need to start the bed leveling process then start printing.

I really like the design of the Flsun Super Racer. It’s built well and it looks like a lot of thought was put into this 3D printer to make it as good as possible out of the box. The tick aluminum extrusions make the printer quite stable, but the soft rubber feet give the printer a bit of a wobble. Having the bottom of the printer heavier would have helped, but I can’t say it’s an issue in its current form.

I don’t really like the MicroSD card position in the back left of the printer, and I think having it somewhere in the front would help with accessibility. In the bottom front of the machine there’s also a handy drawer where you can store the tools and your bed leveling sensor.

Flsun Super Racer Specs

Brand Name	Flsun
Model Number	Super Racer
Origin	CN(Origin)
CE Certification	Yes
Consumables Diameter	1.75mm
Printing Speed	150mm/S
Bed Temp	100°C
Slice Thickness	0.2mm
Language	8 languages
Maximum Printing Speed	200mm/s
Interface Type	SD
Color Print Speed	150-200mm/s
Fliament	PLA/PETG/ABS/WOOD
Slice Software	CURA/Repetier/Simplify 3D
Power Supply	24V
Precision	0.05-0.3mm
File Format	STL/OBJ/AMF/3DS
Nozzle Diameter	0.4mm
Auto Leveling	Yes
Maximum Print Size	260260330mm
Molding Technology	FDM

Linear rails and 10mm belts

One of the most interesting features of the Flsun SR is the use of linear rails. This allows the printer to reach high printing speeds while maintaining accuracy. The linear rails don’t produce a lot of noise during movement which is great!

On the bottom of each linear rail there’s a belt tensioning knob. If you decide to adjust it, it’s extremely important to have the same belt tension on each axis, to avoid dimensional accuracy issues for your prints. These tensioning knobs are a bit hard to turn because they are recessed in the aluminum extrusion but considering that you won’t really need to do this process more than once, we can somewhat ignore this minor issue.

It’s also worth noting that the Flsun Super Racer uses 10mm belts. They are not GATES belts like we get with the Ender 6, but they seem to be good enough. These belts will help with fast movements during printing, and I really hope more 3D printers will use wider belts in the future.

Carbon Fiber rods

Delta printers greatly benefit from light moving parts and to improve this, the Flsun SR comes with carbon fiber rods. I’m not 100% convinced these rods are made from carbon fiber, but they are light and stiff. Between each pair of carbon fiber rods, we get two springs to hold them in place.

The weight of these carbon fiber rods is only 177 grams.

I’m curious to see how the plastic caps inside these fiber rods will work after a few thousand hours of printing. Even though there’s grease on them to minimize wear, they will fail at some point and right now I can’t see any replacements available.

Super Racer Effector

The Flsun Super Racer has an aluminum effector with a V6 hotend clone, a volcano-like heatblock and a volcano nozzle. For part cooling, we get two 4010 radial fans with plastic ducts to direct the air close to the nozzle. The whole effector assembly, including the cooling fans and hotend weight 264g.

Because of the way it’s mounted to the arms, removing the whole effector to service the hotend is really easy, and it takes less than 10 seconds. If you were to purchase a second effector as a spare, you could easily swap it and start printing again in less than 10 minutes.

BMG Extruder clone

Compared to the Titan clone extruder used on the Q5, the Flsun SR uses a BMG extruder clone which has a gear ration of 3:1 and dual gears which help push the filament efficiently to the nozzle. It’s especially important to have a good extruder with this printer because you won’t be able to print fast with a regular style single-gear extruder.

The extruder is not the highest quality, especially considering the gear quality but I’ve used the exact same unit on other printers with good results and it performed well on the Flsun Super Racer.

PTFE lined V6 hotend with Volcano-like heatblock

The hotend is a regular V6 clone with a volcano-like heatblock, and the PTFE tube goes right up to the nozzle. This means that your printing temperatures shouldn’t be pushed over ~240C, because the PTFE tube starts to degrade and release harmful fumes. While I would have liked to see an all-metal heat break, instead of the PTFE lined one, this is not a huge issue, and an upgrade is not that expensive. For regular PLA and PETG printing, the stock one should be good enough.

Unfortunately, the volcano-like heatblock is shorter than the original. This makes the nozzle stick out substantially and I’m almost sure this is not ideal for consistent temperatures.
In the future I will surely upgrade the hotend asembly with a bi-metal heat break and a proper Volcano nozzle to properly take advantage from the print speeds this printer is capable of.

During my first 3D Benchy I discovered that the PTFE tube was not correctly installed, and I needed to disassemble everything to clean up the clog and install the tube properly. This fixed my clogging issue and retractions performed well after that. The hotend fan start only after the hotend temperature goes over 50C.

Dual air ducts for improved cooling

Having all these features wouldn’t help too much if the part cooling is not up to the task. Fortunately, with the Flsun SR we get dual part cooling fans and ducts. They do decent job on larger models, but I would have preferred to have more airflow. They quickly become a limiting factor when doing fast PLA prints because the layers don’t have enough time to properly cool and this causes lower quality prints. Maybe having a pair of 5015 fans will further improve print quality with fast printing.

Removable magnetic auto-leveling sensor

Just like the Flsun Q5, the Super Racer comes with a magnetic auto bed leveling sensor which is used after installing the printer. I must say, this sensor works really well and after performing the initial calibration, there was no need to re-level again.

32-Bit board with silent stepper TMC2209 drivers

While the included board looks familiar, it’s not a BIGTREETECH board. Instead, Flsun used a clone of the popular SKR 1.3 board.

The stepper drivers have big heatsinks and to keep them cool we have a 60mm fan which provides good airflow while limiting the noise produced by it. I’m not a huge fan of the added hotglue on the side of the stepper drivers, but that’s what we get.

There’s not much to talk about this board. If you know about the SKR 1.3, then the clone used by Flsun should be just the same.

Glass print surface

The aluminum heated bed is covered with a textured glass print surface, similar to what we got with the Flsun Q5, and with other Creality printers. This is one of the most popular print surfaces right now, and it works well. Adhesion is great when heated, and the prints pop of easily after it cools down.

The heatbed also has some insulation underneath covering the whole radius of the aluminum bed, which is nice.

Cheng Liang 360W 24V Power Supply

Unfortunately, the power supply we get with the Flsun SR is a Cheng Liang unit. It’s not terrible, but this brand is not my favorite. In the past, I had one unit which got damaged, and I needed to replace it. Either way, considering that the Flsun SR doesn’t draw more than ~230W at a time, it should be good enough.

Removable 3.5-inch touchscreen

Another interesting feature of the Flsun Super Racer is the removable touch screen. When you install it, there’s a nice magnetic support which attaches to the printer to keep the screen easy to reach. Most of the time I use it in place, without removing it, but I am sure other people like having the option to grab the touchscreen and use it just like a smartphone.

The touchscreen is nice and responsive, and it has the basic feature set to operate the printer. I also like that you can see the print speed during printing. My only concern is the cable connection on the top of the printer which might get damaged over time.

Printing experience with the Flsun Super Racer

Out of the box, the printer performs well, and the Super Racer name is somewhat true for this printer. I was able to do regular prints with increased speed compared to a regular cartesian 3D printer, or even a CoreXY. Print speeds of ~80mm/s are possible with no tinkering if the slicer profile is tuned well.

But if you are looking to go past ~80mm/s, then part cooling starts to show its weakness especially for smaller PLA prints. On PETG and ABS you can maybe push it over ~100mm/s, but then you hit the second bottleneck which is ringing. With the current Marlin firmware, ringing starts to show up with these speeds which will require acceleration and jerk tuning for good results.

Installing Klipper firmware is the right way to go with this printer. After installing Klipper, you will be able to use Input Shaper which will greatly improve the print quality and ringing at high speeds.

Please note that I am talking about “real” speeds you can achieve with the stock Super Racer. You can also crank up the speed to ~200mm/s and keep acceleration values low, but that doesn’t mean that the printer is actually printing at that speed even though you see that on the touchscreen.

Heating time and power consumption

I tested the heating time for both hotend and heat bed and here are the results:

Hotend

200C in 1 minute and 35 seconds
250C in 2 minutes and 10 seconds

Heatbed

60C in 2 minutes and 30 seconds
100C in 7 minutes and 20 seconds

Power Draw

Idle power draw is around 10W. When the hotend and heatbed are heating up, the Flsun Super Racer draws around 220W. After it starts printing, the power draw stabilizes to around 60W.

All these measurements were taken with a Blitzwolf smart power socket which indicates the power draw, and it can also be used for remotely powering on and off the printer.

Bed Temperature Uniformity

I tested the temperature uniformity for the Flsun Super Racer bed with the Flir Camera installed on the CAT S62 Pro. The bed has been set to 60C and I waited 2 minutes after reaching that temperature for the temperature to stabilize.

The bed temperature is a few degrees higher in the center, but the uniformity is great right up to the sides.

Flsun Super Racer Noise Levels

I’m happy to report that the fans are quieter compared to the Flsun Q5, and the printer is quiet when idle. As previously mentioned, the hotend fan only turns on after you start heating the hotend and the rest of the fans are pretty quiet.

It’s also interesting to see that Flsun also chose to add some cork gaskets between the stepper motor and the frame, to minimize vibrations.

IdeaMaker profiles for Flsun Super Racer

During my time with the printer, I also tuned four IdeaMaker profiles for the Flsun Super Racer using the tools available in the 3D Printer Calibration Guide using IdeaMaker article. These profiles are tuned for the stock printer and worked well for me. Feel free to give them a go.

Flsun Super Racer IdeaMaker Profile – PLA – 3DPrintBeginner
Flsun Super Racer IdeaMaker Profile – PETG – 3DPrintBeginner
Flsun Super Racer IdeaMaker Profile – ABS – 3DPrintBeginner

Test prints on Flsun Super Racer

3D Benchy

After fixing the PTFE tube inside the hotend, I printed a 3D Benchy. For an out of the box setup, the results are really good especially considering the print speed. The layer lines are consistent, and print quality is good but for a print this size the part cooling setup starts to show its limits.

Material: Sunlu Grey PLA
Layer Height: 0.2mm
Nozzle Temperature: 210C
Bed Temperature: 60C
Print Speed: 70 mm/s

200% Calibration Cube

Delta 3D printers are not known as really accurate machines, so I printed this 200% calibration cube in PETG. I’m happy to report that the cube dimensions are really good, with 0.02mm differences compared to the model which is negligible. You could print this a bit faster, but print quality starts to degrade and ringing will show up more.

Material: Devil Design Pink PETG
Layer Height: 0.2mm
Nozzle Temperature: 235C
Bed Temperature: 65C
Print Speed: 80 mm/s

Voron Calibration Cube

I also printed the Voron calibration cube to test how accurate round holes are printed. The bearing fit perfectly so I’m happy with the results. Bridging performance is also good but the Z seam has some bulges. This is caused by the filament pressure inside the nozzle and can be further tuned with Linear Advance or with a bit of coasting.

Material: Devil Design Pink PETG
Layer Height: 0.2mm
Nozzle Temperature: 235C
Bed Temperature: 65C
Print Speed: 80 mm/s

Phil-A-Ment

With the first test prints done, it’s time to go a bit faster and see what the Flsun Super Racer can do. The internal and external perimeters were printed with 100mm/s and the results are nothing short of amazing. The extrusion is consistent, and the model looks great even on the steep overhangs under the gloves. Really happy with how this model turned out.

Material: Gembird Red PLA
Layer Height: 0.2mm
Nozzle Temperature: 215C
Bed Temperature: 60C
Print Speed: 100 mm/s

Fluffy the Unicorn

Here’s another model printed with the same settings as Phil-A-Ment. The model is almost flawless, if we ignore the badly aligned Z seam which I forgot to align before slicing.

Material: Gembird Blue PLA
Layer Height: 0.2mm
Nozzle Temperature: 215C
Bed Temperature: 60C
Print Speed: 100 mm/s

Sponge Bob

I changed the filament and started another PLA print. Sponge Bob was printed with the same PLA profile as with the previous two models, but this one has some small sections where extrusion is not as consistent as I would like. But either way, considering the print speed, which was used, I’m happy with the result.

Material: Gembird Yellow PLA
Layer Height: 0.2mm
Nozzle Temperature: 215C
Bed Temperature: 60C
Print Speed: 100 mm/s

Torture Toaster

Bigtreetech sent me some Matte PLA to test, so I printed the Torture Toaster. The model came out well, but there are some issues with it. First, two of the overhang parts broke during printing (I blame the layer adhesion for this specific filament). Second, is the bad overhang portion on the right, where the part cooling fans didn’t properly cool the layers and the filament started to droop.

Material: BIQU Olive Green Matte PLA
Layer Height: 0.2mm
Nozzle Temperature: 215C
Bed Temperature: 60C
Print Speed: 70 mm/s

Su Laegildah

I had some Extrudr BioFusion filament for a while and thought it would be a good idea to also test the Flsun Super Racer print quality using some shiny filament. The model is flawless, with excellent detail and without any kind of print issue. It’s hard to take proper pictures of this model because of the shiny nature of the filament, but you really can’t ask more from an FDM 3D printer. Please note that this model was printed at ~40 mm/s which is close to the top recommended speed of this filament. If I were to print it faster, adhesion would suffer, and the shiny surface would have some imperfections.

Material: Extrudr BioFusion Epic Purple
Layer Height: 0.15mm
Nozzle Temperature: 215C
Bed Temperature: 60C
Print Speed: 40 mm/s

Sisu the Dragon

I’m so happy with the print quality you can get from the Flsun Super Racer, and I probably printed too many models with PLA, but here’s another example of the excellent print quality you can get. The print speed was a bit lower, at 80mm/s but I lowered it a bit to make sure that all the small details are printed correctly. If print speed is too high, cooling issues can occur.

Material: FilamentOne Glint Red PLA
Layer Height: 0.15mm
Nozzle Temperature: 215C
Bed Temperature: 60C
Print Speed: 80 mm/s

Black Cat

I also did an ABS print just to test how fast I could push the Flsun SR. The Black Cat model from Eastman was printed at ~80mm/s with no enclosure. Even though the model completed successfully, there are two small delaminations on the external walls of the model which are caused by printing ABS without a completely enclosed machine. The printer was set in a position where drafts were not present, but if there’s a big difference in environmental temperature compared to the model, these small cracks show up. You can also see some less-than-ideal overhangs caused by the increased printing speed.

Material: Gembird Black ABS
Layer Height: 0.15mm
Nozzle Temperature: 235C
Bed Temperature: 105C
Print Speed: 80 mm/s

The Dogefather

The one and only, Elon Musk, also called “The Dogefather”. Printed at a relatively low speed, but the print quality is excellent. The BioFusion filament works really well with the Flsun Super Racer, if the print speed is not too high.

Material: Extrudr BioFusion Metallic Grey and Sunlu Carbon PLA
Layer Height: 0.15mm
Nozzle Temperature: 215C
Bed Temperature: 60C
Print Speed: 50 mm/s

Conclusions: Is the Flsun Super Racer worth it?

YES! If you are looking for a fast Delta 3D printer, then the Flsun Super Racer is an excellent option. It’s able to produce impressive looking prints while also doing it fast. Most of the time, the print speed you can achieve with the Flsun SR is limited only by the material you choose to print with, and the part cooling fans which are a bit underpowered. But other than that, there’s not much to complain about. To get this kind of quality and print speed for under 500$ is impressive and I can only congratulate Flsun for the achievement.

The Flsun Super Racer has a good list of features and hardware that works really well. Sure, it’s not perfect, and some of the hardware used can be considered a small drawback for this printer (I’m talking about the heatblock and the PTFE lined heat break and the low power part cooling fans) but these can be upgraded later.

I can only imagine how the print speed can be improved after setting up Linear Advance or installing Klipper to further improve the print quality at higher speeds to eliminate ringing with the use of Imput Shaper. I will make sure to document the process when I get to do it. Besides that, if you upgrade the part cooling fans, I’m sure the print speed can be pushed even further.

Later Edit: Linear Advance is enabled in the firmware but the value is set to 0. A value of 0.20 works great as a starting point, but this might be different according to your filament type. The slicing profiles have been updated.

Where to buy the Flsun Super Racer?

Amazon
Flsun
Banggood
AliExpress
Geekbuying

I recommend checking out the Discount Codes page before purchasing. I regularly update the article with discount codes for various online shops, and you might find one for this particular model.

Klipper and other upgrades for FLSUN Super Racer

After some time with the FLSUN Super Racer, I found some improvement points for the printer and you can read more about my recommended upgrades in the FLSUN Super Racer Upgrades article. I also wrote a guide on How to Install Klipper on FLSUN Super Racer if that’s what you’re interested in.

The Flsun Super Racer was provided free of charge by Flsun for the purpose of this review. While the article includes affiliate links, all opinions are my own. Nobody reviewed the article before it was posted, following the Review Guidelines.

Liked it?

Consider supporting 3DPrintBeginner if this content helped. You can also join Patreon for exclusive perks!

Flsun Q5 Review: Delta Printer For Beginners

I have a lot of printers, but the Flsun Q5 is my first delta machine. For some reason I never got my hands on a delta and I was really interested in testing one.

What are delta printers?

Most common FDM 3D printers right now are cartesian and Core XY printers.

Cartesian printers move the bed on the Y axis, and the hotend moves on the X and z axis. In this case, the heaviest movement part is the bed, and this can cause ringing on the surface of the prints if speeds are not tuned well. This is the reason most of the cartesian printers are used at relatively low speeds.

Most Core XY printers move their bed only on the Z axis, and the hotend moves on the X and Y axis. Because the heaviest part of the printer moves only in small increments on the Z axis, you can now push the printer to higher speeds.
With a bowden setup, Core XY printers can print faster than a cartesian printer and usually with better quality.

For delta printers, the bed is completely stationary, and the hotend moves in all three XYZ axis. This movement is made possible by three moving arms which are connected to the hotend assembly. Each arm is controlled by a single stepper motor and moves independently to control the position of the nozzle.

With this type of movement included in a delta printer, the hotend is a bowden setup to keep the weight as low as possible. Movements can be much faster which translates to faster print speeds and you are usually limited only by the cooling capacity of your part cooling fan and the hotend.

Unfortunately, there’s also a downside with delta printers. Usually, the build volume is about half of its height because the moving arms I was telling you about need extra room in order to perform the movements on all three axes. Besides the volume loss on the Z axis, you also loose a bit of space on the X and Y due to the circular bed.

A delta printer is a good contender for Klipper and that’s the main reason I was interested in playing around with the Flsun Q5.

Flsun Q5 Packaging and Shipping

The printer was shipped from a local warehouse (UK) and delivery took around 5 days. Packaging for the Flsun Q5 is much smaller than I expected, but all the components are properly secured and protected during shipping.

With the printer you also get the following accessories:

Leveling sensor
Hotend assembly
Effector arms
Installation screws
Filament cutting pliers
Spatula
USB cable
MicroSD Card
Spare 0. 4 mm nozzle
A set of hex wrenches
Metallic spool holder
PLA sample

Assembly of the Flsun Q5

The assembly process of the Flsun Q5 is straight forward and easy to do even for a beginner. First, you need to connect the three extrusion assemblies on the base plate then install the top of the printer.

Next, you install the effector arms to each axis and finally, install the hotend assembly. With the printer assembled, you just need to install the spool holder on top of the printer, and double check all the wire connections. If everything looks good, then you’re ready to start printing.

Flsun Q5 specs

Build Volume (L X W X H)	φ200X 200 mm
Maximum layer resolution	0.1-0.4 mm
Recomended layer resolution	0.2-0.3mm
Printing speed	20-200 mm/seg
Recomended speed	80mm/s
Filament Diameter	1. 75 mm
Nozzle Diameter	0.4 mm
XY Positioning Precision	0.012mm
Z Positioning Precision	0.004mm
Operation Temperature	5-37°C
Product Dimensions	300x300x650mm
Shipping Box	660x360x150 mm
Product Weight	7kg
Shipping Weight	8KG
Power	200W
Input Voltage	AC 100-240V
Power output	DC 24V 8A
Filament Material	PLA ABS
Printer Case	Aluminum
Monitor Screen	Touch screen
Print Technology	FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling)
Supported File Type	STL,G-code, OBJ
Connectivity	USB, SD card
Software	Cura,Repetier-host
Language	English

Titan clone extruder

It’s nice to see that the Flsun Q5 comes with a geared extruder in the form of a Titan clone. The quality is acceptable and it’s much better than any kind of cheap extruder you can find on some Creality machines.

Considering that the Flsun Q5 is a delta, and you can push the printer at much higher speeds compared to a regular 3D printer, the Titan extruder will ensure the consistent extrusion needed.

V6 hotend

The Flsun Q5 comes with a V6 hotend clone with a few changes from the regular V6. It gets mounted on the printer using two screws that go inside the heatsink trough the bottom.

The heatblock is smaller than a regular V6 and the head break is PTFE lined so I don’t recommend going over 245C for a long period of time.

The hotend can be a limiting factor when printing because if you raise the print speed too much, the hotend cannot keep up. A volcano hotend would have been a better addition to this printer, but the current one works fine for up to 70mm/s. Heating is fast and the nozzle can reach 210C in about 2 minutes.

Unfortunately, there’s no silicone sock on heatblock but this is a really cheap upgrade which will keep your heatblock clean.

MKS Robin Nano 1.2 (32-bit board with TMC2208 silent drivers)

The board included with the Flsun Q5 is made by Makerbase. It’s the Robin Nano 1.2 board with 3x TMC2208 silent stepper drivers. The extruder uses an A4988 stepper driver which is a bit louder. It should be easy enough to replace the stepper driver with a similar TMC2208 to make the printer even quieter.

Considering the price of the printer, I can understand why they saved a few dollars with an older stepper driver but a TMC2208 would have been nice.

As you can see, there’s room for another stepper driver, so the printer can be upgraded to dual extrusion in the future, if you’re looking to try it. Of course, this will require some modification to the printer. Specifically, adding an extra stepper motor, extruder, and a split connector for the filament

The MKS Robin Nano V1.2 also has a port for connecting a MKS Wi-Fi module which can allow you to send prints remotely to the printer.

Small 2.

8inch touch screen

The touchscreen included with the Flsun Q5 is a MKS 2.8 TFT which is responsive and offers most of the controls you would expect.

It doesn’t have any special functions like the BTT TFT35, but it gets the job done. I like that the screen menu takes you through the Z calibration process so it will be easy for anyone to correctly do the calibration whenever it’s necessary.

Ultrabase style glass bed

The printing surface included with the Flsun Q5 is an Ultrabase style glass bed, similar to what you can find with an Anycubic or Creality printer. The round glass bed has good adhesion and prints can be removed easily after the bed cools down.

There was no need for me to use the metal spatula to remove the prints because they get released by themselves after the bed cools down.

The print surface is flat and after calibrating the Z offset and probing the bed, I never had to touch it or use babystepping for a perfect first layer.

You can reach up to 100C, thanks to the DC powered heat bed underneath the glass. Heatbed insulation material is also present which helps the bed reach the required temperature faster, and lower the overall power draw during operation. The bed reaches 60C in 2 minutes, and 100C in about 6 minutes.

Auto bed leveling

For leveling the printer (or maybe it’s better to call this “calibrating the printer”) you get a removable sensor which clips next to the hotend.

With the help of this sensor, the Flsun Q5 probes the bed in 25 points and then generates a mesh to compensate for the inaccuracies that might be present in the heat bed. It works really well and makes the whole setup a breeze. I only used it once since I got the printer.

Small footprint

I like the fact that a delta printer takes a lot less space compared to a regular printer. The Flsun Q5 makes no exception and it takes only 50cm on the desk. It takes about the same space as a regular resin printer.

Fanless power supply

Because the heated bed is relatively small, it doesn’t draw a lot of power. This allows the manufacturer to use a lower power power supply (240W) which doesn’t need a fan. The benefit of using a lower power supply with no fan is lower noise during operation.

Inside the enclosure there’s a 4020 fan which blows air over the stepper drivers and power supply, so cooling is fine.

Not the greatest spool holder

Unfortunately, the spool holder is not the best. Because it is connected with only two screws on the relatively thin metal sheet on top, it’s not that stable.

It works but I think an upgraded spool holder with bearings would work much better for the Flsun Q5. The spool holder arm is also a bit small and it will not allow the use of wider spools of filament.

Fortunately, there are a lot of 3D printable solutions available so this is an easy fix.

Good calibration from factory

I was pleasantly surprised to see that the printer is properly calibrated right from the factory. I didn’t need to perform any kind of extruder or flow calibration. Everything was on point.

This made the whole experience with the printer painless and I am sure any beginner will appreciate this. You just take the printer out from the box, assemble it then start printing. Of course, you will need a decent profile, but otherwise, the Flsun Q5 is one of the easiest printers to setup

Mirrored prints

It’s also worth noting that the prints from the Flsun Q5 are mirrored, and I could not find a reason for this but I will update this review when I find a solution.

This can be probably fixed by editing the firmware but I think it’s worth mentioning the current state of the printer firmware.

Later Edit: The issue was fixed by flipping the X and Y motor wires and end stops. They were not installed correctly during assembly in the factory. After flipping the connectors, everything printed in the correct orientation.

Slicer profile for Flsun Q5

During my time with the printer, I tuned a Prusa Slicer profile for the Flsun Q5. This profile is tuned for the stock printer and worked well for me. If you are looking to give it a go, then feel free to download from the links below:

Flsun Q5 Prusa Slicer Profile – PLA – 3DPrintBeginner

There was no need for me to calibrate the extruder of flow, but if you notice some extrsion issues, you can follow the Flow Rate Calibration article in order to do that.