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Ender 3 3d printer review
Creality Ender 3 Pro Review: An Ideal First or Tenth 3D Printer
Tom's Hardware Verdict
The Creality Ender 3 is an open-source, DIY kit 3D printer that is ideal for beginners looking to get started in 3D printing or professionals looking to create an inexpensive fleet of printers for manufacturing.
Pros
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+ Beginner-friendly assembly process
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+ Highly accessible and modifiable frame
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+ 350W 24V power supply heats up quickly
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+ Simple first-party app offers solid print quality
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Retailing for a very-reasonable $240, the Creality Ender 3 Pro is one of the most popular filament-based 3D printers, attracting both beginners and budget-focused makers. The device ships unassembled and uses an open-source design that makes it easy to modify. However, the great support and solid output quality of this printer also make it easy-to-use. Whether you’re interested in buying your very first 3D printer or you’re looking to set up a fleet for manufacturing, the Creality Ender 3 Pro is one of the best 3D printers you can buy.
Specifications
| Machine Footprint | 17.5 x 17 x 18 inches (44.5cm x 43.2cm x 45.7cm) |
| Build Volume | 8.7 x 8.7 x 9.8 inches (220mm x 220mm x 250mm) |
| Material | 1.75mm PLA, ABS, PETG |
| Nozzle | . 4mm |
| Build Platform | Removable Flexible Textured Sheet |
| Connectivity | microSD, USB |
| Interface | 3.25" LCD w/ Dial Button |
Creality Ender 3 Pro: Included in the Box
(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)The Creality Ender 3 Pro ships unassembled and includes all of the tools you need to put it together and get it running. In addition to all of the printer components, the box includes: a full set of Allen keys, zip ties, a set of flush cut wire snips for cutting filament, a scraper for removing parts from the bed, a microSD card, a microSD-to-USB reader, a small sample coil of PLA filament, and a few extra parts for the assembly process. All of the bolts are bagged in sets which are labeled with their measurements, which is very helpful during the assembly process.
(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)- Creality Ender 3 Pro at Walmart for $90.99
Assembling the Creality Ender 3 Pro
(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)Although the Creality Ender 3 Pro is a DIY kit 3D printer, the overall assembly process is designed to be friendly to users of all skill levels and can be comfortably completed in an afternoon.
There is no soldering, crimping, or other advanced techniques required that would put this kit out of reach for a beginner with limited tools and/or experience. Building the Ender 3 Pro took me just over an hour from unboxing to flipping the power switch, and I didn’t need a single tool that wasn’t included with the printer.
The assembly guide breaks down the assembly into 12 steps that are easily completed sequentially and is also included as a digital .pdf on the microSD card. Creality also includes a video showing the assembly process on the microSD card if you prefer a video guide instead of a written one. Among various quality-of-life improvements over the original Ender 3, the Ender 3 Pro has built-in belt tensioners for the X and Y axes that allow you to manually adjust tension if the belt isn’t stretched properly.
(Image credit: Creality)Loading Filament and Leveling on the Creality Ender 3 Pro
(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)Loading the filament is a breeze.
I was able to easily load filament through the injection molded extruder and into the white Bowden tube. The 350 Watt Meanwell-brand power supply heated both the nozzle and the bed to loading temperature in just under two minutes, which meant I wasn’t waiting around for the bed to reach printing temperature after the nozzle had already heated.
Once I had loaded filament into the extruder, I leveled the bed by using the included triangular piece of paper and adjusting the nozzle height with the thumbscrews at all four corners of the bed. This process is relatively straight-forward and I didn’t run into any problems during leveling. If you level the bed carefully, you'll get prints that adhere well to the build platform without being deformed. The piece of paper should be lightly pressed down into the build platform; too close and the paper becomes pinned down, too far and it can move freely. This can be difficult on a flat glass bed if the glass isn’t perfectly flat, but the combination of aluminum bed and textured sheet was easy for me to level quickly and accurately.
Creality Ender 3 Pro Build Quality
(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)The Creality Ender 3 Pro ships with the V4.2.2 controller board, which is the standard board for this model of printer. The wiring job is professional, with several of the wiring connectors affixed with a silicone potting compound into their sockets to prevent them from coming loose during shipping or operation.
The wires are bundled and the overall cable management is clean and allows for good airflow over the stepper drivers. The board accepts a microSD card for uploading .gcode instructions and can also be controlled via the USB port on the front of the machine.
(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)The Ender 3 Pro's V4.2.2 controller board features HR4988 stepper drivers, which can create a noticeable amount of noise during printing. Combined with the noisy fan that cools the controller board and the intermittent fan on the power supply, this printer makes a surprising amount of noise when printing.
The buzzing from the stepper motors reminded me of my very first 3D printer from 2013, a Printrbot Jr. that could be heard from clear across the house through multiple walls when it was printing.
If you’re planning to use this printer near your desk, it may be distracting during fast travel movements and when the power supply fan kicks on. I found that I was unable to concentrate with the machine on my desk, and had to move it to the other side of the room while it was running.
Printing on the Creality Ender 3 Pro
(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)The Ender 3 Pro ships with a microSD card that contains a user manual, a troubleshooting guide, various USB drivers, and several pre-sliced models in .gcode format. These pre-sliced models can be printed by simply inserting the microSD card into the printer and selecting a model.
I ran my first test print using the “cat-3.5H.gcode” file and, while it was printing, I took a look at the .gcode file in a text editor.
The file was sliced at a .1mm layer height, using 3 perimeters, and prints completely hollow with 12 solid layers on the bottom and top of the model. This is an unusual strategy for printing small models, as having an internal infill structure can help to support any material overhangs that occur on the inside of the model.
Despite the unusual printing configuration of this test file, the printed model featured a good amount of surface detail with no major visible defects aside from some stringing that occurred while printing the ears. To remove the print, I peeled the flexible magnetic build plate off and bent slightly, allowing the print to pop right off. The raft separated easily from the model and didn’t leave any defects on the bottom surface. The test part is an impressive example of what the Creality Ender 3 Pro is capable of.
Software and Settings
(Image credit: Creality)Creality ships the Ender 3 Pro with their own slicer called ‘Creality Slicer’, which is compatible with Windows PCs and is based on the open-source software Cura.
. Other common slicers for this open-source printer include Cura, PrusaSlicer, and Simplify3D.
A typical printer in this price range, such as the Mingda D2 ($235 on Amazon) , will ship with a copy of Cura and a printer profile that was designed for that specific machine. These profiles can be hit or miss and typically require a lot of dialing in to get a good result.
For this review, I used both Creality Slicer as well as PrusaSlicer to print a model and used the default settings at .2mm layer height for both to directly compare them.The model I used is the Benchy, a common benchmarking test used for this style of 3D printer that offers an insight into the performance of the printer when making difficult-to-produce geometry.
Creality Slicer Settings on the Ender 3 Pro
(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)| Profile | Fast (0.2mm) | |
| Material | Common PLA | |
| Platform Adhesion | None |
I used the default ‘Fast’ profile for the Ender 3 Pro built into Creality Slicer to test out the printer and see how much detail it was able to produce.
The model printed with no major visible defects, save for the infamous ‘hull line’ which typically occurs when the printer transitions from sparsely filled layers to solid layers.
The layers laminated evenly, and I only saw a few visible bumps caused by the start and stop point of each toolpath on the outermost contour. For a part printed with no changes to the software, I was satisfied with the overall quality of the Benchy.
(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)PrusaSlicer Settings on the Ender 3 Pro
(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)| Layer Height | 0.2 mm |
| Infill Percentage | 20% |
| Print Speed | 40mm/second |
| Extruder Temperature | 205 degrees Celsius (401 degrees Fahrenheit) |
| Heated Bed Temp | 60 degrees Celsius (140 degrees Fahrenheit) |
I ran the same test print using PrusaSlicer, another common slicer program that also includes a native printer profile for the Ender 3 Pro.
In addition to the hull line artifact, this print also showed some banding towards the top of the print and seemed to lack a bit of the detail present in the model sliced with Creality Slicer.
This print wasn’t quite where I would like to see a benchmark print, and some optimization of the software (print speed, retraction settings, etc.) would likely be required to get this part to an acceptable level of quality. I’ve printed this part using similar settings on the Prusa MK3S using the same material in the past, and the quality is much higher than what I saw here. While the Prusa MK3S is a more expensive machine, I was still surprised to see this much of a difference in a test part using the same software.
Printing a second test print on the Creality Ender 3 Pro
(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)I was curious about the amount of banding present in the model printed with PrusaSlicer, so I decided to re-run another one of the pre-prepared files from the SD card to confirm the problem wasn’t being caused by a hardware issue.
I ran the piggy bank test part, and it came out without any of the visible banding that I noticed on the model sliced with PrusaSlicer. The vertical walls were smooth and even, and the model seemed to be clear of any major defects.
The PrusaSlicer profile, while a good starting point for this printer, clearly requires a bit of calibration to get the best results. I’ve found that reducing print speed is typically a quick way to troubleshoot and can have a major impact on the overall quality of the part, and that may be a setting worth experimenting with to get the best results.
Adjusting retraction is another important consideration, as the Ender 3 uses a Bowden extruder, which pushes the filament through a long tube before it gets to the hot end. This pushing (and pulling during retraction) can cause defects in the print if not properly calibrated, so this might be worth investigating as well.
(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)By including Creality Slicer with the Ender 3 Pro, Creality has simplified the printer experience for first-time users who are interested in getting their printer up and running without spending a lot of time experimenting with third party software.
I was impressed with how easy the Creality Slicer software was to install and use with the Ender 3 Pro, because most other manufacturers with printers in this price range ship without first-party software. The basic settings to create a print are brought to the front of the app and the included “expert” mode will let you adjust settings as you become more comfortable with the printer.
Whether you are a beginner interested in building your very first printer or an experienced entrepreneur looking to create a print farm to produce 3D printed products, the Creality Ender 3 has a lot to offer with only a few notable drawbacks. The noise produced by the Ender 3 Pro while printing is definitely a downer for anyone living in a studio apartment, and the lack of an enclosure to retain heat should be considered by anyone interested in printing with a higher-temperature material like ABS or Polycarbonate. Creality also offers the Ender 3 Pro V2 ($279 on Amazon) , which features silent stepper drivers and a more modern interface at a slightly higher cost.
Other printers in this price range, such as the Anet ET4X ($199 on Amazon) , offer similar features and specifications, but the removable textured build platform and the fast-heating 350W power supply on the Ender 3 Pro make it an easy choice for anyone looking for a user-friendly machine. In addition, the open-source Ender 3 Pro has a large and robust user base and multiple online communities dedicated to modifying and experimenting with their Creality machines.
It’s clear that Ender 3 Pro has a lot to offer anyone who is interested in 3D printing. It’s an excellent first printer for a beginner or an additional machine for the experienced hobbyist.
(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)Andrew Sink first used a 3D printer in 2012, and has been enthusiastically involved in the 3D printing industry ever since. Having printed everything from a scan of his own brain to a peanut butter and jelly sandwich, he continues to dive ever more deeply into the endless applications of additive technology.
He is always working on new experiments, designs, and reviews and sharing his results on Tom's Hardware, YouTube, and more.
Creality Ender-3 S1 3D Printer Review: Easy Setup Makes for an Ideal Starter 3D Printer
The Creality Ender-3 S1 had been sitting in a box by my desk for some time before I dared set it up. I had been reluctant, having heard stories about the the popular Ender-3 line requiring a huge investment in time and effort to assemble.
For example, the mainstream Ender-3 V2 is considered a great 3D printer for under $300, but not necessarily a great one for beginners. It requires a lot of hand assembly from building the frame to attaching the individual motors and sensors. Even after that, most Ender enthusiasts strongly suggest swapping out some of the default hardware for aftermarket upgrades, which adds further complexity.
At $399, the S1 version of the Ender-3 is about $100 more then older versions but includes so many upgrades and quality of life features that it qualifies as a great beginner-friendly, plug-and-play printer.
Mostly.
8.5
Creality Ender-3 S1
$399 at Amazon
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Like
- Very little assembly required
- Direct drive extruder and self-leveling bed
- Simple enough for beginners to get good results
Don't Like
- Lacks a touchscreen and Wi-Fi
- Took some fiddling to get software settings right
Opening the box, I was pleasantly surprised to find the entire gantry preassembled (that's the two side and one top support pieces). The base comes mostly preassembled and prewired; assembly took maybe 15 minutes, versus the couple of hours I'd heard previous models require.
Read more: Best 3D Printer for 2022
The print size of 220 by 220 by 270 millimeters isn't huge, but it should be big enough for many hobbyists. The nozzle temperature can go up to 260 degrees Celsius (500 degrees Fahrenheit), which isn't the highest -- but again, good enough for standard PLA/ABS/PETG/TPU printing.
Those initials all refer to different types of 3D filament, which are described in more detail here in our 3D printing filament guide: If you're starting out, basic PLA is what you'll probably be using. It's inexpensive, nontoxic and easy to work with.
Minimal assembly required.
Dan Ackerman/CNETFancier features
One key step-up feature is that the system runs off a direct drive extruder, rather than one with a Bowden tube. That means the filament you use goes directly into the extruder and right to the nozzle. In a Bowden system, the filament goes into an extruder, which then forces it through a thin plastic tube to the nozzle. Both are fine, but the direct version removes extra parts and potential complications from the signal chain and is considered more reliable. A good analogy is a direct drive turntable versus a belt drive one.
There's also a little sensor box the filament runs through that tells the system when you run out of material, which is premium-feeling extra.
Another feature you don't always find in budget 3D printers (and in previous Ender-3 models) is auto-leveling. The system will drive itself through a routine to probe and adjust so the print bed is completely level. Likewise, previous models usually included a simple glass bed to print on, the S1 version has a flexible metal sheet that attaches magnetically to the base. That's my preference, since it makes removing prints from the bed much easier.
A few disappointments
The Ender-3 S1 includes many features I'd consider premium, but it's also missing a few I'd like to have. The color display isn't a touchscreen, but is instead operated by a single knob used to scroll through menus. It's a pain that feels needlessly archaic.
I didn't love the single-knob control screen.
Dan Ackerman/CNETThere's also no Wi-Fi, which for a hot minute felt like it was on its way to becoming a standard feature in 3D printers (as it should be).
Instead, you have to transfer files via SD card (one is included) or direct USB connection. There are ways to connect a separate simple Raspberry Pi mini-computer and use that to get online, but it's far from simple.
Make sure you have a spool of filament handy when getting started, the box only includes a small sample loop, not even on a plastic spindle.
The S1 in action
Once the printer was set up and leveled, I tried one of the test files included on the SD card. It came out great, but when I loaded new files onto the card and tried to print them, I ran into problems. It felt like the nozzle was not getting close enough to the plate for the filament to stick, no matter how much I adjusted the Z-axis in the system menu.
I was using the stock version of Cura, the popular free 3D-slicing program (slicers are used to prep 3D models for printing), and the default settings were clearly not fine-tuned for the Ender-3 S1. Creality offers a custom version of that software, renamed Creality Slicer, and using it solved the problem immediately.
I still intend to go back and get the regular Cura settings adjusted as well, though.
I tried a few different 3D models, some sculptural and some more structural. Since I was burning through a spool of green PLA material, my choices tended to lean toward the Yoda/Hulk side of things. Print quality even out-of-the-box was excellent, although a lot of that comes down to having good models to work from. I'd call it as good as print quality from some $500-$600 printers I've tried.
When you have green filament...
Dan AckermanThe Ender line has always been known for good value and excellent performance in a budget printer, but it's also been criticized for not being beginner-friendly enough. That's why I usually recommend printers like the Anycubic Vyper for first-timers, which is both inexpensive and easy to set up.
With the Ender-3 S1, Creality has a high-quality, low price 3D printer that's as easy to set up as any I've tried.
There's also an S1 Pro model (for another $100-$150) that upgrades the machine's hot end assembly to an all-metal one that supports higher temperatures, adds an LED light strip to the top, upgrades the flexible surface bed and adds a touchscreen. You can find a full list of the differences here.
In the $300-$500 range, I still like easy-to-use printers like the Anycubic Vyper or Prusa Mini Plus, but the Ender-3 S1 has just leapfrogged to the top of my recommendation list.
Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro and Ender 3 v2
Chinese manufacturer Creality's Ender 3D printer line is a budget segment of 3D printers that are among the most popular in the world. Their success is due to the availability, ease of use, reliability and good quality of printing out of the box, which fully explains the widest circle of admirers of this line of 3D printers.
Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro and Ender 3 v2 are versatile tools for any application, and their full potential is realized in the competent application of the final 3D printing product.
For those who just want to get acquainted with 3D printing or want to introduce it into their production, educational or research process, this series of printers is the best fit, and all thanks to a whole set of qualities, which we will discuss below.
Let's start with the junior representative of our review - Creality Ender 3:
Creality Ender 3 belongs to the category of starter printers, which is ideal for beginners or for those who are fond of 3D printing at home.
Thanks to the classic sliding table kinematics, the user can easily understand the principle of operation of the printer and the main moving parts, which will simplify its maintenance and operation. Assembling the printer shouldn't be a problem, but it does take some skill to run (if necessary) the connections and do an initial calibration that should also be easy for users familiar with 3D printing.
The Creality Ender 3 printer is supplied for DIY assembly from prefabricated blocks.
Creality Ender 3's main advantages include its low cost with decent print quality and overall rigidity: the printer frame made of machine aluminum profiles with carriage movement on rollers provides a sufficient level of structural rigidity to obtain very good 3D printing results with proper skill. Adjustment of the roller pressure is carried out by eccentrics and allows you to level the output that remains on the rollers as a result of operation, which prolongs the life of the entire structure without loss of print quality.
The 24 volt power supply provides good heating and temperature maintenance for both the bed and the extruder.
The printer is controlled by a push encoder and a 3.2" monochrome screen.
The Ender 3 3D printer comes with a roughened table pad for clothespins.
Creality Ender 3 specifications:
Ender 3 Pro
The Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer is an upgraded version of the Ender 3, what are the changes?
Creality Ender 3 Pro is also available for DIY use
The Ender 3 Pro has a smaller form factor power supply and a reinforced Y-axis on a 40x40mm profile for more table stability, which is a positive affects the quality of 3D printing.
The Ender 3 Pro, unlike the Ender 3, has a magnetic, flexible table pad that allows you to remove printed models without unnecessary labor, by bending which you can easily peel off the model.
Specifications Creality Ender 3 Pro:
Ender 3 v2
.
Ender 3 v2 is supplied with carborundum glass, which has better adhesion of parts to the surface and faster heating.
Screw-on belt tensioners installed, power supply tucked into the base of the printer, and a tool box next to it.
The printer is also controlled by a rotary encoder with a button, and the information is already displayed on a graphic color display.
The Ender 3 v2 has a plastic printhead cover instead of a metal printhead cover with a tighter fit that eliminates the thermal barrier cooling fan. In general, the printer has become more solid both in design and design.
Specifications Creality Ender 3 v2:
As you can see, the Creality Ender 3 v2's features make it suitable for a wide range of applications, from education to small-scale production.
In the modern world, additive technologies have taken a strong position, and if we take a large part, and not the entire area of the real sector of the economy, then the lack of competencies and the use of additive technologies puts the industry one step lower and reduces competitiveness, in comparison with similar areas, already integrating 3D printing into their processes. Therefore, it is necessary to start working with 3D printers as early as possible, because the placement of such equipment for teaching children will allow in the future to nurture generations of specialists capable of rapid prototyping, flexible manufacturing and 3D thinking.
Also, 3D printing can be useful in any home, workshop, laboratory, hospital, not only as equipment for commercial use, but also as an auxiliary tool in economic activities, as this will allow you to produce various kinds of devices, tools or spare parts for their repair .
One common use for 3D printers is "3D printing farms" or "3D printing labs" that are prototyping or mass-producing finished products such as electronics cases, and with the power of 3D printing, refocusing on a new product occurs in a matter of hours.
Using the Ender printer line allows you to create a truly large 3D printing farm without a huge budget.
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90,000 3D printer Ender 3Home .2019
Contents
-
- Packaging and contents
- Specifications
- Ender-3 - assembly kit
- Ender-3 Pro - assembly kit
- Ender-3S is a pre-assembled printer.
- hex set
- small roll of PLA plastic (5 m)
- nozzle cleaning wire
- spatula, wire cutters and screwdriver
- SD card 8 GB and USB adapter for SD card
- replacement nozzle
- fixing kit and cable tie kit
- replacement pneumatic fitting
- instructions in Russian in electronic form (assembly and quick start)
- warranty card
- The first step is to assemble the printer frame: vertical profiles, power supply and display are attached to the bottom.
- The next step is to install the limiter and the Z-axis motor.
- Next, we proceed to assemble the X axis. The extruder motor, the extruder on rollers, the belt, the belt tensioner and the idle pulley are mounted on the aluminum profile. Some users in their reviews noted that the X-axis belt actually turned out to be a little longer and had to dance with a tambourine to achieve the desired tension. Fortunately, we did not have such a problem, maybe it was a shortcoming of the first batches of printers.
- And the matter remains small ...
- Install the spool holder, connect all the tubing and electronics and... the printer is fully assembled.
Since the launch of the Ender 3 series, subsequent printers have undergone an upgrade, the manufacturer has made certain improvements. An interesting feature of the printer is that Creality3D made the Ender 3 completely open source.
Therefore, do not lament if you did not have time to buy printers of the first echelon, now the Ender 3 model is much more perfect and more reliable.
There are 3 models in the Ender 3 series:
The main differences between the Ender-3 Pro and the usual three-ruble note are the presence of a magnetic sticker for better adhesion and a more powerful Meanwell power supply.
Similar to the Pro model, but comes pre-assembled. Suitable for users who do not want to spend time assembling the printer or are not entirely confident in their abilities.
In this review, we will consider the most budgetary and simplest model, or rather an assembly kit, Ender 3.
Packaging and contents
Ender 3 comes in a compact box. All components are fixed with a foam seal, which ensures good safety during transportation.
The contents are as follows:
In addition to printer parts, the kit also comes with:
Among other things, the included SD card contains proprietary software and test models to start the first print.
The bundle was a pleasant surprise, such an abundance is not always found in more expensive models, there is even a replaceable nozzle, an adapter for an SD card and a spare fitting.
Specifications
Print technology FDM/FFF Thread diameter 1.75 mm Material type ABS, PLA, others Construction area size 235x235x250 mm Housing material steel Number of extruders (print heads) one Site heating temperature Max. 110℃ Layer thickness 0.1-0.4mm Nozzle diameter (mm) 0.4 Working temperature of the extruder Max. 255℃ Extruder travel speed Max. 
180 mm/s Display 3.5 inches Connection interface SD Software Repetier/CURA/Simplify 3D Operating Systems Linux, Mac OSX, Vista, Windows 7.10 XP Supported file formats STL, OBJ, G-code Energy consumption 115/230V, 50/60Hz, DC24V, 270W, 15A Weight (without packaging) 6.6 kg Printing Accuracy ± 0.1mm Dimensions (without packaging) 410x420x465 mm Country of Origin China The Ender 3 prints with ABS, PLA, TPU, PETG and other plastics, but given the open housing for ABS printing, it's better to build something like a cap on the printer. There may also be a problem when printing with soft plastics due to the bowden feed.
But there are some semi-rigid heads (like the Ninja Cheetah) that won't be a problem even with bowden feed. Assembling the printer
For those new to 3D printing, assembling a printer can be a daunting task. It took us about 50 minutes to assemble and calibrate. A user who does this for the first time will need about 1.5-2 hours.
The lower part of the frame with the table is supplied already assembled, which makes the task much easier. Also, you do not have to assemble the extruder and the motor along the X axis.
The printer comes with an electronic version of the Russian-language assembly instructions, consisting of 12 steps. Everything is described in sufficient detail and clearly, but there are still a few points that need additional explanation, we will talk about them below.
Everything is simple here, further assembly steps will be somewhat more complicated.
It is very important to set the Z-stop at a distance of 32 mm from the base. Placement lower or higher may interfere with further calibration.
The Z-axis motor must be adjusted in height for the normal movement of the profile on which the extruder is attached. For these purposes, a standard plastic card is ideal:
Fasten the top profile.
Another important point: although the table and the bottom frame are assembled at the factory, it is better to tighten the fastening screws for high-quality printing. In any case, you should definitely check them before starting the printer.
Calibration
The platform is calibrated using giant nuts placed at each corner of the platen. Thanks to their large size, they are easy to turn, making calibration as easy as possible.
Calibration takes place in the standard way at the four extreme points of the table using a sheet of paper folded in half.
If there is any doubt that the calibration was successful, it is better to repeat the procedure until you achieve the desired result.
Design and construction features
Design
The assembled printer is simple and concise. The design is standard for budget FDM printers - "pryushchee" kinematics with an open case. Trapezoidal screws are installed along the Z axis. All electrics are located inside the lower frame.
Extruder
The Ender 3 has an omnivorous MK10 extruder with bowden feed, which means that soft plastics will be problematic to print, but such a feed, in theory, will allow you to develop faster print speeds without losing quality.
Display
The small display mounts directly on the base of the printer, unlike the newer and more expensive Creality3D CR-10, where the control box and screen come separately. On the one hand, this is a plus, especially if you plan to periodically move the printer from one place to another. On the other hand, if you close the printer with a case, then the electronics will also be under it and additional heating cannot be avoided.
The display is the simplest and displays basic information, such as set and current nozzle and table temperatures, print time, progress bar, etc. Controlled using a standard knob.
Platform
The Ender 3 has a 235x235mm printbed with a surface reminiscent of the good old Wanhao. In principle, there were no problems with adhesion, sometimes even additional efforts were required to remove the model from the platform. The Ender 3 Pro comes with a more convenient magnetic sticker that improves adhesion and makes it easier to remove.
Software
Creality3D has its own slicer that looks like a slightly modernized CURA. Installation files are supplied with the printer, and advanced users can download the software and firmware from the manufacturer's website.
Printing
Now let's move on to our Ender-3 print results. We used several different types of plastic, and the printer coped with all tasks adequately.
There was one failed model with uneven layers, but after adjusting the print settings, there were no more quality problems. This is Esun gray PLA waiter (however, the trunk suffered a small fiasco and did not finish printing a bit):
The small skull also turned out well:
As it turned out, the printer copes well with both small objects and larger models.
Next we tried PLA-txt 8.2 Magic from North Bridge. It turned out very well.
Transparent plastic Transparent eTwinkling:
Polimaker's Esilk PLA Piggy is not the best, but for such a budget printer it is quite decent.
Results
In conclusion, we can say that the Ender 3 3D printer performed very well in terms of print results, especially for its money. The printed models turned out to be no worse than those created on the most expensive printers. We were also pleasantly surprised by the reliability of the design and the quality of the printer's parts, we expected that it would be a more flimsy device with cheap components.
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