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Cr10S pro 3d printer


Buy Creality CR-10S Pro V2 3D Printer-Creality CR-10 Series

Home Collections CR-10S Pro V2 3D Printer: with BL Touch 95% Pre-Assembled

Editor's Choice | Best 3D Printer Under $600;  Upgrade Creality CR-10 with BL Touch Silent Board 500W Meanwell Power Supply Touch Screen Capricorn PTFE Large Build Size 11.8inx11.8inx15.7in; 

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Features of CR 10S Pro V2

BL Touch Auto Leveling
Matrix Automatic Leveling, quality Bill Touch automatic leveling device. And the CR-10 Pro V2 will automatically measure the height of 9 unique points on the heated bed to determine the ideal settings for perfect prints every time.

Filament Detection: 
CR-10S Pro V2 has a newly-added innovative material shortage detection switch, Even also highly sensitive to detect transparent materials; 

Upgraded Silent Board
 CR-10S Pro V2 adopts V2.4.1 motherboard independently developed stable performance TMC ultra-quiet drive 256 subdivision for finer printing

500W Meanwell Power Supply
Comes with a UL Certified Meanwell power supply. 500W large power and wide voltage power supply. 100V-240V can be used, no need to adjust. It's convenient and fast, ensuring long-term stable printing.

Teflon Tube & Bondtech Gear Extrusion
Imported high temperature resistant blue Teflon tube ensure great printing texture, Bondtech Gear extrusion Structure has two high-density gear and big extrusion force for smooth feeding

-CR-10S Pro(V2): FAQ & Troubleshooting-

1. Does this printer include filament in the package?
Yes, it contains a small roll of 200 g's of PLA 1.75 white filament which is more than enough to get several projects made. You can do some small test prints with this.

2. What is the print table made of? How hard is it to get a large print off of the table?
It is an Aluminum plate with a PC sheet glued on top. which has a very strong adhesion especially on PLA.
The size of bed is: 310*320mm(about 12.20in x12.6in)
Parts For CR-10SProV2: Spring Steel PEI Bed Plate; Removable Cmagnet Plates; Tempered Glass Build Plate

3. What is the size of the base (footprint) ?what is the total size dimensions of the whole unit?
16" W x 21.5" D It is on 4 rubber feet.
We recommend the 23” Depth(Space) with the bed all the way back.

4. Does the printer have a resume function in case of power outage?
Yes

5. Is the pro v2. Still the 8-bit board?
Yes.

6. Looking for a replacement nozzle for this, which nozzle works with this printer?
This item nozzle is 0.4mm. h23mm, D6-d0.4mm, M6-0.75 fine pitch thread.
Links to: CR-10S Pro V2 Original Nozzles Kits,  MK Brass Nozzles Kit(16Pcs)

7. Can this print ABS type materials?
Yes, the CR-10S Pro V2 can print ABS. Both the bed and the nozzle get to the appropriate temperatures. Keep in mind, when printing ABS you do want to vent it outside.

 

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Creality CR10S Pro Review - The verdict? A Must Have

Table of Contents

Now this may shock some of you but I bought my Creality CR10S Pro second hand. I was in the market for a fresh printer, something larger than my Ender 3 Pro, and a friend was looking to downsize his considerable collection of 3D Printers. In all fairness to him, the Creality CR10S Pro was brand new & never used. I was lucky to get a good deal!

Collecting the printer, I took it home in the front seat of my car, strapped in almost lovingly. Arriving back, I placed the Creality CR10S Pro on my desk and stopped to look at it. As printers go, it is attractive; the red anodised Aluminium contrasts well with the black aluminium frame. The electronics have all been moved “inboard” abandoning the older CR10 and CR10s designs which utilised an external control box separate from the printer itself.

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Specifications on the CR10S PRO

  • Accuracy: +/-100 Micron
  • Layer height: 100–400 Microns
  • Filament diameter: 1.75 mm
  • Compatible materials: PLA, ABS, TPU, composite filaments
  • Feeder system: Bowden – Capricorn Tube
  • Extruder type: Single nozzle M6 x 0.75mm
  • Nozzle size: 0.4 mm – included with the printer
  • Extruder temperature, Max.: 260 °C
  • heated bed temperature Max.: 110 °C
  • Max. print speed:  Claimed 180 mm/s  (I only tested mine to 60mm/s)
  • Closed print chamber: No
  • Bed levelling: Automatic – via Capacitive sensor
  • Print bed:  24V Heated capable of 110C in 5 minutes
  • Display: LCD touchscreen
  • Connectivity: Micro SD card, USB
  • Built-in camera: No
  • Build Area: 300x300x400

Construction of the CR10S Pro

The aluminium frame is excellent. Using a 40x20mm aluminium extrusions for the Z-axis uprights with the hot end carriage running along the standard 20x20mm. I checked the frame, and everything was straight. With a painted black finish, the control box features a clear and easy-to-use touch screen. That replaces the dial control used on previous CR10 models. When switching the printer on you are greeted by the Creality logo. Once loaded, you will see the menu options, but these I will talk about later.

Looking deeper into the changes Creality have made when updating the CR10. I like the dual z-axis screws that they have carried over from the CR10S model. It provides a much more stable x-axis for the hot end and carriage. Note: Creality has used a stepper motor for each z-axis lead screw rather than running both from one and using a belt.

Build Surface

The build surface on my Creality CR10s Pro was an aluminium plate with a build sticker. As I know, now the newer models come with a glass bed featuring the same build sticker. Unfortunately, as is often the way with aluminium beds. So I replaced it with a sheet of 4mm Borosilicate glass that I got cut by a local glazier for around £5 GBP. Also, the build surface has built-in build plate clips. These are great! No more binder clips being caught by printer nozzles on a wipe, just a rock steady bed.

After checking over the machine a little deeper, we can see Creality have upgraded the usual silicone-based Bowden tube to a Capricorn tube. And that the bed springs are the stiffer “yellow” springs often retrofitted to the Ender 3 and other Creality 3D printers. They have even included brief clips for the Bowden tube connectors. That most of us end up printing and fitting the gigantic bed, adjusting wheels that we saw on the Ender 3 Pro.

Another point worth mentioning is that Creality has gone to a decent level of effort to tidy the wiring on this machine. To the extent than only one ribbon cable comes from the side of the machine to the area where the extruder and steppers receive power.

Much neater than the previous Creality offerings such as the Ender 3 Pro where users often print cable chains to get that tidy look. One thing Creality have kept is the micro SD card format. I prefer a full-size SD card as the small ones are fiddly, especially if your printer is in an enclosure.

Extruder

Looking to the extruder we have a beautiful red anodised finish again matching a standard upgrade to Creality printers. Before the extruder, there is also a filament run-out sensor.

That uses a blue LED light, will help to alert that the filament has run-out and saves the hot end position and temps for when you wish to restart the print. This same save procedure occurs in the event of power loss, hopefully saving your print, back to the extruder itself.

I see more improvements over the older designs again. They have replaced the plastic components with red anodised aluminium, and this version is Bond tech’s double gear mechanism.

By using the double gear extrusion mechanism, it has twice the grip on the filament, ensuring reliable and smooth feed to the hot end. But, I have yet to test how well this will work with softer filaments such as TPU.

CR10S Pro 3D Printer Hotend

At the hot end, we find Creality have again moved away from what’s been a previous stalwart for them. No longer do we find the MK8 hot end so familiar to Ender 3 and CR10 owners, but it uses a new proprietary hot end. Similar to previous versions, Creality is using a single fan for the parts cooler and another to cool the hot end.

The parts cooling fan duct are 3D printed, and the STL is available on Thingiverse. I have been thankful for this as a part. Without the STL I would have had to order a replacement or print a non-standard duct. The Hot end heat sink is now round, secured using 2x M3 screws and using a familiar heater block thermistor and heated cartridge.

We’ve seen these on the other models whereas the nozzles and heat break differ from the mk8 hot end. The nozzles now run an M6x0.75mm thread, and only one included with the 3D printer, a standard 0.4mm. I have yet to try a different diameter nozzle in my CR10s Pro as I find the 0.4mm has suited my printing needs admirably to date.

Levelling Sensor

Crealitys decision to fit a capacitive level sensor to the Creality CR10s Pro is questionable in my mind. I feel a contact probe such as the BL Touch would have been a better choice, as this is not affected by temperature fluctuations. As a capacitive sensor can be, and won’t have sensitivity issues, but they have gone so far.

As to provide an acrylic shim and feeler gauge to allow you to set the height of the probe. Correctly relative to the height of the nozzle at 0.2mm from the print surface. However, the instructions included for how to set this up are awful, I can find here a much more precise explanation of this from Tiny Machines. Please note: The level sensor has replaced the physical z stop switch. If your sensor fails or is incorrectly set, it’s straightforward for your nozzle to crash into the print bed.

The hidden upgrades warrant a mention. The upgraded V2.4.1 main board along with being silent offers increased stability and reliability over previous versions. It has TMC drivers who assist in the noise reduction and eliminate salmon skin effects that have been seen by people fitting TL Smoothers. An upgraded power supply sees Creality returning to using Meanwell as they did in the Ender 3 Pro, giving a more stable voltage to the printer and the comfort of a named brand.

Firmware

The Creality CR10s Pro comes with a boot loader pre-installed so flashing the firmware is very simple. Therefore, it was one of the first things I did with my machine because from the factory they do not enable the Thermal runaway protection. I find this odd as the features are already there in Marlin. One thing to note, if you will flash your main board you will have to flash your LCD. This is simple enough and can be done using a micro SD and the reader fitted to the LCD PCB board. I used the Tiny Machines Firmware and had no issues at all.

CR10S Pro 3D Printer Software interface

The LCD touchscreen is large and easy to navigate. The icons make sense, and the writing is clear. While you don’t have direct access to read some settings as you would have an Ender 3 Pro, you can get. A pleasurable thing to know is that the Creality CR10s Pro will only read STL files in the root directory of the SD card and not in folders.

Last Hurdle

I’ve used my Creality CR10s Pro 3D printer for several months now and some most frustrating issues I have faced during that time have been simple fixes. First, I could not get the bed level working. Here, I reset the sensor. Then manually levelled the bed, I levelled the gantry and made sure the frame was square, yet nothing helped.

Finally deciding to strip the gantry down and start again from scratch, I removed components, and the source of all my troubles became clear. I had a broken bolt in the z-axis stepper motor coupling! As a result, this caused the z-axis to slip. With this repaired and the bed levelled again, I was away. Immediately the quality of the prints was showing massive improvements.

Finally printing

After getting a successful print, I tuned my slicer and printer settings. I performed a PID tune on my hot end and calibrated my E-steps; so, I then printed the compulsory Benchy. After this, I made many items. Some small, others more significant in a variety of filaments including Geeetechs Marble Filament. Consistent bed height and a reasonable expectation of the speed the printer should work at (in my case 60mm/s) has given me some gorgeous quality prints.

Modifications

I have printed some upgrades from Thingiverse. I don’t see the need to alter the Creality CR10S Pro much as it’s a competent 3D printer. There are minor issues that could be quickly addressed.

  • Filament guide
  • Bearing Filament guide
  • Filament cleaner

The two filament guides are to smooth the path of the filament and stop it from rubbing on the top of the runout sensors casing. As this was causing shavings, therefore over time along with causing blockages, would damage the aluminium castings.

The filament cleaner is in my mind purely an excellent preventative measure to ensure your filament is as clean as it can be before entering the extruder.

I think the most significant alteration I have made is to carry out Luke Hatfield’s (Onebadmarine) Creality hot end fix. I suffered from several blockages in the hot end where the Capricorn tube wasn’t seating tight against the back of the nozzle. Luke’s repair involves a printed washer and a piece of Bowden tubing cut to a precise length.

With the cut tube inserted into the hot end, I then place the washer on top with the Bowden tube coupling. It screws into the top of the hot end against the washer. Acting the same as an all-metal hot end. To ensures there is no space for the filament to move into between the filament path preventing annoying blockages.

Final Thoughts on the Creality CR10S Pro?

I like this 3D printer. I like it a lot! It looks cool, and it is quiet; but, the loudest part of the printer is the cooling fans. I’m sure anyone who must have it quieter could fit some lower Db ones. The quality of the screws on the hot end carriage is poor. Using the supplied Allen keys, it wouldn’t be hard to round them off. Unfortunately, my bed is warped; but the newer models now ship with a glass bed.

Thermal runaway protection was not active on my Creality CR10S Pro. in my mind. This is a massive failure that needs to be amended in the firmware before the printers ship. However, despite all of this, I still like this printer! So much so I am considering buying its big brother the CR10S5 3D printer!

I hope you enjoyed our review! Why not check out the Longer Lk4 review or Creality 3D Scanner–Must have or Gimmick?

Mini 3D Printer Review Creality3D CR-10S

I've had the idea of ​​purchasing a 3D printer for a very long time. Either the price of consumables stopped (about $ 25 per kilogram), then the quality of printed parts frightened. But recently I came across a review of the Creality3D printer. The simple-looking printer produced decent results right out of the box.

In general, my choice fell on the Creality3D CR-10S. Although at first I looked at the Creality3D CR-10 model, which was 40 percent cheaper. These two printers have similar features, but the CR-10S model has a number of advantages, which I will discuss later.

Differences between Creality3D CR-10S and Creality3D CR-10 3D printer

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    • Packaging, weight and other goodies in the box Creality3D CR10S

    The printer arrived in a cheap cardboard box. The inscription on it read: Creality3D CR-10S. The letter "S" is written with a felt-tip pen, which, of course, alerted.

    Fortunately, everything inside was quite civilized. Everything is laid with a thick layer of foam rubber (foamed polyethylene), parts are in separate compartments, nothing hangs out, everything is laid very neatly. But the smell from this foam rubber (which is polyethylene foam) was quite strong. I had to take the box out to the balcony.

    The complete set is rich. The Chinese have put a number of things useful for printing: wire cutters, a spare limit switch, a spatula, PLA plastic, a flash drive + a card reader, a spare hose for feeding a bar, zip ties, spare fittings, masking tape, a cleaning tool for an extruder, spare screws and cage nuts.

    Creality3D CR10S Printer Assembly

    A memory card is included with the printer. It contains files and programs necessary for the assembly and operation of the printer. Naturally, everything is in English.

    Frankly speaking, the instructions are hastily made, but they are enough to assemble the printer.

    Printer assembly takes 30 minutes. This is if you don't rush at all.

    There was only one problem during assembly. One drive screw on the Z axis was not included in the clutch mounted on the stepper motor. The spring clutch compensates for misalignment, but in my case, it was about 5-8 millimeters. This is clearly visible in the figure.

    I had to put washers under the stepper motor mounting bracket.

    Washers are a temporary solution. Then I will deal with this problem more thoroughly.

    Setting up the printer

    Unfortunately, the manual did not contain information on setting up the printer. I had to think of everything myself. Although, if I hadn’t thought, perhaps everything would have worked right away. And so I had to suffer a little.

    The first thing I did was align the x-axis profile with the bottom frame. The figure shows the dimensions that I controlled. Measurements were taken with a standard caliper. After adjustment, you need to fix the Z-axis screws with locking screws on the couplings.

    everything is then compensated by the calibration of the table.

    Printer build quality can be checked by raising the extruder to its maximum height. I did not succeed the first time. Traffic stopped halfway. I had to adjust the alignment of the SD shaft and the Z-axis screw.

    The final part of the printer settings is the table calibration.

    Before calibrating, I intentionally lowered the table so that the nozzle would not hit the table. This is done with the help of adjusting screws that are under the table.

    Next, in the printer menu, I launched the table calibration procedure:

    The procedure takes place in five steps. The extruder nozzle alternately (after pressing the Next Step button) approaches five points of the table. At each position, with the help of adjusting screws and a probe (I used a regular sheet of paper), you need to set the gap between the nozzle and the glass.

    This completes the printer setup.

    My first print with the Creality3D CR10S 3D printer

    Before printing, you need to load the plastic rod. To do this, I warmed up the nozzle, put the bar into the feeder and turned on the feed. I had to wait a bit for plastic to come out of the nozzle.

    Then I removed the "snot", pasted molar tape on the table and moved the system to its original position.

    For the first print, I used a ready-made control program from a USB flash drive. This, of course, was a rash step, because. I didn't know what print options were included in this file. But then I didn't know about it yet.

    Here's what happened:

    I think the result is excellent for the first time.

    And here is the quadcopter I printed, made on this printer:

    In conclusion, I want to say that I did not regret the purchase. The Creality3D CR10S is a great home printer.

    assembly and printing instructions / Amperka

    How to assemble the Creality CR-10 3D printer and start printing? Our instructions will answer these questions and help you set up the printer correctly.

    Contents

    • 1. Parts to assemble
    • 2. Assembling the printer
      • 2.1. Installing Portal
      • 2.2. Installation of additional fasteners
      • 2.3. Electronic connection
      • 2.4. Fitting the spool holder
    • 3. Filling plastic
    • 4. Table calibration
    • 5. Model slicing
      • 5.1. Download Slicer
      • 5.2. Printer setup in slicer
      • 5.3. Changing the program language
      • 5.4. Adding a Model to Slicer
    • 6. Setting print options
      • 6.1. Printer selection
      • 6.2. Plastic and nozzle selection on the
        • printer
      • 6.3. Slicing settings selection
    • 7. Preview
    • 8. G-code export
    • 9. Printing from a memory card
    • Finally

    1. Assembly Parts

    • 1× Printer Disassembled
    • 1× Manual
    • 1× PLA (test coil)
    • 1× Spare parts kit
    • 1× Key set
    • 1× Nylon tie set
    • 1× Nozzle cleaning needle
    • 1× Spatula
    • 1× Cutters
    • 1× microSD card (8 GB)
    • 1× USB microSD card reader
    • 1× Mains cable

    2.

    Assembling the printer

    For threaded connections, use the hex wrench set supplied with the printer or use your favorite screwdriver. The manufacturer may have put in a few spare screws. If after assembly you still have extra parts, this does not mean that the printer was assembled incorrectly.

    The set includes decorative inserts in the aluminum profile. They do not affect the functionality of the printer. We will not mount them, as we want to start printing as soon as possible.

    2.1. Portal installation

    What you need:

    • 1× Bottom platform assembly
    • 1× Top portal complete
    • 4× Screws M5×25

    Attach the portal to the table frame with four screws.

    2.2. Mounting accessories

    What you need:

    • 1× Side holder with screws
    • 1× Side holder with screws and limit switch

    Screw the corners to the bottom of the printer to further secure the portal. The end stop on the corner must be on the motor side of the Z axis. Connecting the Electronics

    What you need:

    • 1× Control box

    Connect the X-axis limit switch with a two-wire cable with the appropriate “X” label. You can distinguish a motor cable from a limit switch cable by the number of wires. The motor is connected with four wires, and the limit switch with two.

    Connect the X-axis motor with a four-wire cable labeled "X".

    Connect the Y axis limit switch and motor.

    Connect the Z axis limit switch.

    Connect the Z axis motor.

    Connect the extruder cable.

    Insert the Teflon tube into the extruder. Secure the fitting with a latch.

    Fix the printhead cable in the dedicated holder.

    Connect the table and print head cable to the control box. Tighten the fixing nut on each connector.

    Insert the power cord into the socket. To the left of it is a switch.

    2.4. Mounting the spool holder

    What you need:

    • 2× M3 screw with cap
    • 1× Plastic part of spool holder
    • 1× Metal part of spool holder

    Screw the metal part of the holder to the control box housing.

    Use the large nut to secure the plastic part of the holder to the bracket.

    3. Filling plastic

    Cut the end of the plastic at an angle so that it is sharp.

    Select "Prepare" from the printer menu.

    Preheat the nozzle before applying plastic. To do this, select the "Preheat PLA" item. The printer will begin to warm up the nozzle and table.

    Once the required nozzle temperature has been reached, press the lever on the extruder. The pressure wheel will move away, and you can safely insert a thread of plastic.

    Push the plastic through the Teflon tube until it comes out of the nozzle.

    4. Table calibration

    Tighten the screws on the table. It should go as low as possible.

    Remove the film from both sides of the glass on the table.

    Apply two sheets of masking tape to the glass. Scotch tape is needed so that the part sticks well to the table. Instead of tape, you can spray the glass with hairspray or smear the surface with a glue stick.

    Go to "Prepare".

    Then select "Auto home". The printer will zero the nozzle in all axes.

    Turn off the motors by selecting "Disable steppers".

    Place a sheet of paper between the glass and nozzle. Raise the table with the screw until the nozzle begins to scratch the sheet. The sheet should scratch, but not tear.

    Move the print head by hand to another corner of the table. Repeat calibration in all corners.

    5. Slicing the model

    Before printing on a 3D printer, the model must be prepared and divided into layers. Usually 3D models are distributed in STL format - this is a kind of JPEG in the world of modeling. A three-dimensional object in the STL format consists of a set of polygons - triangles, the coordinates of which are described in the file.

    However, printers cannot process STL files themselves. First, the selected model must be converted into a G-code - special commands for the printer, which generalize where to move the head and at what speed to extrude plastic during the printing process. To convert an arbitrary 3D model into a G-code, there are special programs - slicers.

    We will show how this operation looks like on the example of the Creality CR-10 3D printer. We will process the popular 3DBenchy boat model in the Cura slicer.

    This model is specially made to detect printing imperfections on 3D printers and calibrate settings. You can download any 3D model in STL format from specialized sites.

    5.1. Slicer download

    Any slicer program is suitable for converting models to G-code. In this example, we will use the Cura slicer - the most functional of the free programs. Download the slicer from the official site and run the installation.

    Skip the welcome screens and accept the terms of use.

    5.2. Setting up a printer in the slicer

    Add a printer to the program using the "Add a non-networked printer" button.

    Select "Creality CR-10" from the list. Leave the printer name unchanged. It is needed to distinguish between several printers or several settings profiles of one printer.

    This screen allows you to change printer settings. The developers have already introduced them, so there is no need to change anything.

    5.3. Changing the program language

    For convenience, let's immediately change the program language. Go to the settings using the “Preferences” → “Configure Cura…” button

    Select Russian in the “Language” drop-down menu.

    The interface language will change only after the program is restarted. Close Cura and reopen - you will be greeted by Russian-language menus.

    5.4. Adding a model to the slicer

    Click on the button with the folder icon and select the downloaded 3D model file.

    6. Setting print options

    All program control is placed in the top panel with three buttons.

    6.1. Printer selection

    The name of your printer is displayed in the upper left corner. We only added one model, so this item should be CR-10.

    6.2. Selecting Plastics and Nozzles on the

    Printer Your Creality CR-10 printer allows you to print a variety of plastics and use different diameter nozzles. Make sure that the standard 0.4 mm nozzle is selected in the program, which is installed in the printer from the factory.

    Open the plastic and nozzle selection shutter. In the "Material" section, select your plastic. If you are using the test coil that came with your printer, please select "PLA" under "Universal".

    6.3. Selecting slicing settings

    By clicking on the long button on the right, a list with basic slicing settings is opened. The developers of Cura tried to make the program more understandable, so they built hints into it. When you hover over an unknown parameter, a tooltip will appear that will help you understand what setting it is responsible for and what it affects.

    Custom button opens detailed settings with many options. Leave all professional options at their defaults. We have enough basic settings.

    The top slider "Profiles" is responsible for the height of one layer. The thicker each layer, the faster the model is printed. At the same time, by reducing the layer thickness, a more accurate print quality is achieved. Set the layer height to 0.16 mm. This is the golden mean between speed and quality.

    The second "Infill" slider is responsible for the interior of the model. The printer can print only the walls of the model, and leave the internal volume empty. This will greatly reduce plastic consumption, but will negatively affect the strength of the model. So that the finished plastic part does not fall apart in the hands, its insides do not remain empty, but are filled with a mesh. The resulting edges increase the rigidity of the model.

    To strike a balance between model strength and plastic consumption, set the infill to 20%.

    Also in the slicing settings menu are two additional options: supports and sticking.

    If the part has protrusions that hang over the table, then the printer will not be able to print them - they will simply fall. To prevent this from happening, activate the "Supports" option with a checkmark. Under the overhanging parts, columns will be printed that will support the part.

    In our test model of the boat, there are no such parts, so the "Support" parameter does not need to be activated. But if you print your own model - do not forget about the supports.

    The "Stick" setting improves adhesion. This is the adhesive force between the workpiece and the table. If the adhesion is insufficient, the part may come off during the printing process. The printer will print a skirt around the model, which will increase the contact area with the table. After printing, it can be cut off, but it will not allow the model to come off the table in the middle of the process.

    Activate this option, because the bottom of the boat is quite shallow, and an additional surface for stronger adhesion will be very useful.

    7. Preview

    Click the "Slice into Layers" button. After that, the slicer will calculate the trajectory of the head and generate a G-code.

    Switch to the "Preview" tab, where you will see the built layers of the model. The preview helps you check your print settings and understand how your model will print.

    8. G-code export

    To record the finished file, it is easiest to connect a microSD memory card to the computer through the adapter supplied with the printer. The slicer will immediately detect the removable device and offer to save the file to it. Save the G-code to a memory card, or use the drop-down list to save to a file, and then manually copy to the card.

    9. Printing from a memory card

    Insert a G-coded memory card into the printer's control box.

    Select "Print from TF" from the menu. You will see a list of files on the memory card. If the list is empty, but it definitely has files, refresh the menu using the "Refresh" item.

    Select the boat file we have prepared. The printer will output general information.

    Printing will not start immediately. First, the printer will warm up the table and nozzle.

    After printing, allow the platen to cool down to room temperature, and then carefully remove the model with a spatula.

    Finally

    We've shown you the fastest way from assembly to use of the Creality CR-10 3D printer.

    Learn more