Arduino due 3d printer shield

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Official Arduino Due 32bit ARM Cortex-M3 module

Official Arduino Due 32bit ARM Cortex-M3

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RADDS - LCD Display 4x20 including SD

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ramps 1.4 - Is Arduino Due a worth buy as controller electronics for deltabots?

An 8bit Atmega can provide bare-bones delta performance with Marlin (eg 40mm/s print speed) or pretty good performance with Repetier (due to more optimized algorithms). For a small and simple delta like a bare-bones Mini Kossel, 8bit may be fine. If you want to do high-speed printing or use any of the fancier features, you should go with 32bit.

The big issue with 8bit comes up when you want to do something that taxes the MCU. Delta kinematics already add a lot of extra math on top of all the normal printer functions like command parsing, motion planning, and heater control. For example, adding any of these to an 8bit Delta can cause issues:

• Bed tilt compensation "auto-leveling" -- the coordinate space rotation transform adds a lot of extra floating point calculations to every movement segment. That really taxes the 8bit Atmega since it does not have native floating point support. (Note that pre-print auto-calibration such as in the RichCattell Marlin fork is not the same as bed tilt compensation and does not add any run-time processor load.)
• Full graphics LCDs -- refreshing the LCD screen for animations and status reports takes a surprising amount of horsepower. 8bit Marlin is widely known to suffer from stuttering and print quality issues when running a GLCD on a delta.
• Highly faceted (smooth) curves, particularly over USB -- the high rate of gcode command processing sucks up a lot of clock cycles, particularly in firmwares that run USB comms as a top-priority interrupt.

What the Due (or other 32bit board option) does for you is de-bottleneck the MCU so you can push the printer harder or utilize features that add processor load. Here's why they're so much better:

• In simple clock speed terms, the SAM3X8E in the Due/Duet/Alligator/etc is about 5 times faster than the Atmega 2560, and the LPC1769 in the Smoothieboard/MKS-SBASE/etc is about 7 times faster. But they're actually MUCH higher performance than clock speed alone would suggest, because the 32bit architecture and native floating point support mean far fewer clock cycles are required for complex calculations.
• They also have more RAM, meaning the the firmware can manage more features and look farther ahead when motion planning.
• They also have more program space, meaning the firmware can, if desired, be compiled as a single full-featured build that covers all possible printers (as RepRapFirmware and Smoothieware do) and thus end-users don't have to edit and compile code in the Arduino IDE to configure the firmware. The Atmega line requires hundreds of conditional compile statements in the firmware to exclude unused features from the binary to get the memory footprint down.

All that said, the switch from an 8bit Atmega AVR to a 32bit ARM Cortex-M3 is still just an upgrade from a late-1990s processor to an early-2000s processor. Neither is "modern" by any stretch. (For example, the BeagleBone Black used by Redeem and MachineKit utterly blows away the Due in processing power and memory. But those options have steep learning curves at the moment.) The Due can still be bogged down by printing very fast with lots of features enabled. It's a big upgrade on an Atmega, but I predict it's going to be replaced by much faster controllers within the next few years. Announcements of upcoming next-gen controller boards are already trickling out.

To summarize, the answer is yes, a Due-type board is a good buy if you want a high-performance printer. It will meet 99%+ of user's needs today. But it will be replaced in a few years, just like the Atmegas are being replaced now.

As for specific Due shields, I strongly recommend NOT going with RAMPS-FD. It was cloned for sale by Asian companies before the design was finished, which seemingly caused the original designer to abandon it before working out all the bugs. RAMPS-FDv1 has some nasty design flaws such as heaters turning on while flashing firmware. RAMPS-FDv2 is better, but can experience unreliable and oddball behavior due to unresolved issues in the circuits intended to make it compatible with both 3v3 boards like the Due and 5v boards like the Mega. (For example, the thermistor voltage reference circuit needs modifying to work right, and there appears to be timing issues in the 3v3-5v level shifters.)

RADDS is a good Due shield. It is a simpler, more reliable, more compact version of RAMPS-FD. It is very popular in Germany and has recently (late 2015) become available for sale in the US.

I also recommend purchasing the Due R3-E instead of the regular Due R3. Anecdotally, the "E" version appears to eliminate some firmware bootup issues that can occur when the board is first powered at lower than nominal voltage.

One possible downside to the Due is that Arduino just announced they are no longer manufacturing it. So all new Due boards from here on will be made by 3rd parties. That's not necessarily bad, since it's open source and many other companies will surely continue making them, but there won't be any more made by Arduino.

For single-board options using the same SAM3X8E processor as the Due, the Duet 0.8.5 is becoming quite popular. (It runs RepRapFirmware, which has some great Delta features.) The Alligator runs Repetier. There are several other beta/experimental/development boards in the works too. The community appears to be moving towards the Due and Due-compatible boards over the other various options.

Arduino Due in a 3D printer. Little trick powered by RAMPS1.5

I print (not often) on delta with a Micromake D1 skeleton, with the usual 8-bit brains on the 2560th atmel and RAMPS nerves (version 1.4).

And even when typing rarely, I have already experienced system friezes and 'snot' on models with high polygon density.

And since there were plans to assemble another CoreXY phaneroid, I decided to use Goodwin and give delta more powerful brains, and transfer these to a new one. nine0003

We are not looking for simple ways, because ready-made solutions for 32-bit control boards are not interesting. I want hardcore ... Well, at least a little.

Inspired by articles on the RAMPS hack to cross it with the Arduino DUE, this particular kit was chosen.

I ordered RAMPS1.5 (something to him lay more heart) and after 2 weeks I'm ready to dissect it.

I thought that everything had already been invented for me, but it turned out that the technology has room for improvement.

Details under the cat. nine0003

Mainly focused on this article With the exception of powering the display and encoder, as I used a Full Graphic Smart Controller with a standard adapter. Here I used a similar article on another resource. The difference is in the transfer of just one incision.

But this is not what prompted me to write this post.

When modding the shield, I didn't like a couple of things.

1. If you look at the layout of the RAMPS1.5 board, you can see that the power plus is routed along the mounting side. I consider it not entirely correct to load vias for the power connector, as the author of the article did, like many others. Therefore, I made a jumper (putting heat shrink just in case) right between the fuses F1 and F2. nine0003

This, of course, does not exclude the possibility of adding a jumper on the printed side of the board, but it can be soldered at any time.

The idea for the jumper came up while looking for a solution to another problem.

2. Initially, I did not like how the author made power on the Arduino. I'm talking about the L7809 sticking out from the side.

(Photo by the author of the article)

The very use of this stub I consider useful and, most likely, this is a temporary option for the author of the photo. That's why we had to solve this problem for ourselves. nine0003

Actually, the solution I came up with, I think there is a worthy continuation of the modding of the board, as a result of which the Arduino Due does not 'suffer' at all. And I decided to share it.

So, Arduino Due remains virgin (perhaps except for reset stabilization, but that's a completely different story). We do not solder or cut anything, because we are sawing RAMPS)))

Remove diode D1 from the RAMPS1.5 board (you can clearly see where it was in the photo)

Remove one leg from the PLS-R (angled) connector and solder it to puzu L7809, and bend the extreme legs. We check (just in case) that the 'belly' is a common wire of the stub.

By the way, the jumper from the first revision is made from the same leg of the connector, it is without the letter R, that is, the pin is initially straight.

Bend the legs of the stabilizer in such a way that, when put in place, the stub itself does not touch the mosfet. Not necessarily, but I think it's better that way.

The new leg L7809 is mounted in a hole with a round nickel of an uninstalled J4 connector as in the photo. There is a minus on this contact. nine0003

Next is a matter of technique: we stop the L7809 standard earth leg, solder it in place and hang blocking capacitors 0.33uF and 0.1uF directly on the legs. We check the power supply without connecting the Arduino to the Vin leg (it is signed on the Arduino Due) and solder the connector with the final chord. You can have a kopeck piece, like the author of the article, but I only had a 3-pin ... And why not? An earth contact for a clamp is never superfluous)))

We get just such a refinement of the shield.

I'll make a reservation right away. The table heater is used at 220V, because it is switched by a solid-state relay and there is no load on the mosfet, on which the L7809 will now work. And that means it won't get hot.

I actually thought about replacing it with something low-powered, but it was already late and I wanted to sleep.

It remains only to replace the mosfet of the hot end or screw on the level converter - I haven't decided yet, since neither one nor the other is available.

P.S. I'm not a photographer, so sorry. nine0003

Answers to questions about ramps 1.4

For questions specifically related to the RAMPS 1.6 controller board - The RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu Shield, or RAMPS for short, is an Arduino Mega expansion shield designed to house all the electronics for a RepRap 3D printer in a small, inexpensive package.

The RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu Shield, or RAMPS for short, is an Arduino Mega Shield extension designed to fit all electronics for a RepRap 3D printer in a small, low cost package. nine0003

New in version 1.4 is the use of surface mount capacitors and resistors to increase coverage in case of problems. Also, unlike version 1.3, version 1.4 is no longer suitable for home board etching.

For more information and a complete list of features, see the RepRap RAMPS printer wiki.

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