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3D print temperature


3D Printing Temperatures & Printing Guidelines

As each desktop 3D printer has its own unique characteristics, you might need to tweak around with your temperature settings a bit to get the best results. To obtain optimal results for your prints you need to take into account variables like your 3D printer’s nozzle diameter, your printing speed settings, and layer height. Every printer is different, for each material/printer, make sure to take notes of what works and what doesn't.

Your print bed MUST BE LEVEL & CLEAN. You can use acetone and a towel (lint free) to clean your surface and make sure it is free from oils and dirt before printing.

If your printer is equipped with a heated print bed, make sure you turn it on, especially for ABS.

PLA (Original Series) PLA (Creative Series) smart ABS
ABS (Original Series) ABS (Creative Series) Soft PLA
HIPS TPU (Flexible Polyurethane) Bendlay
PVA Flame Retardant ABS Laywood
Nylon PA6 Wood Laybrick
PETG Conductive / Anti-Static ABS Thermochrome PLA
Polycarbonate (PC) EasyFil PLA
PolyMax PLA EasyFil ABS
Taulman3D T-Glase PolyFlex EasyWood Coconut
Taulman3D Nylon 618 Porolay Porous Gel
Taulman3D Nylon 645 NinjaFlex
Taulman3D Bridge Carbon Fiber PLA
Taulman3D PCTPE Polycarbonate ABS (PC-ABS)
High Temperature PLA

 Material

Temperature

Comments
PLA (Original & Creative Series) 215°C - 235°C
  • PLA can be printed both with and without a heated print bed, but if your desktop 3D printer does have a heated print bed it is recommended to set your print bed temperature to approximately 60°C - 80°C.
  • First layer usually 5°C-10°C higher than subsequent layers.
  • Glow in the dark use 5°C-10°C higher.
  • Sticks well to Blue painter's tape.
  • Sticks well to extra strong hair spray.
  • Sticks well with "ABS Juice" (scrap ABS filament dissolved in acetone)
ABS (Original & Creative Series) 230°C - 240°C
  • Heated print bed recommended. Set your print bed temperature to approximately 80°C - 100°C. After the first few layers, it’s best to turn down your print bed temperature a bit.
  • Glow in the dark ABS use 250°C
  • Sticks well to Polyimide/Kapton tape, PET tape, Blue tape.
  • Sticks well to extra strong hair spray.
  • Sticks well with "ABS Juice" (scrap ABS filament dissolved in acetone).
smartABS Aprox. 250°C
  • If foam comes out of the nozzle, the material has to be dried at ~ 75°C for two hours.
  • Follow same recommendations as regular ABS.
HIPS 230°C - 250°C
  • Set your print bed temperature to approximately 115°C.
  • HIPS remain pliable until it's cool. Do not remove your print until fully cooled or it will bend.
  • Will dissolve in approximately 8 to 24 hours when fully submerged in a Limonene bath.
PVA 190°C - 220°C
  • Dissolves into regular tap water. Simply depositing your part in water will allow the PVA to begin dissolving. Results can be agitated by using hot water and mixing.
  • Some good results also noticed at 180°C with heated bed at 40°C.
  • If the temperature on the heated bed is too high, it leaves the PVA flexible and will allow it to shift.
  • Decomposes rapidly above 200°C
  • When used as support material, increase the density of the PVA support.
  • You'll need a printer that has two extruders to utilize PVA as a support material
  • Sticks better to PLA than ABS when used as a support material.
  • When used with ABS as a support material, you should keet the PVA support VERY close (0.1mm) to the ABS surface and use high support density for the PVA.
  • PVA used as a raft will stick well to tape.
  • PVA should be completely dry/dried for best results.
  • Print at a low speed.
Soft PLA 210°C - 220°C
  • Print slow. Significantly lower your print speed. Please try printing at 10-20mm/s.
  • Reduce retraction
  • For the build plate, it is recommended to use blue masking tape with a thin layer of glue stick on top.
  • Set your print bed temperature to approximately 60°C - 100°C.
  • Direct feed printer recommended.
  • Use a bit of lubricant (like WD40) in your bowden tube, although bowden extruders are not ideal for printing flexible filaments.
  • Make sure filament is clean (free from hand grease).
  • Performs best in printers with direct-drive extruders
  • For proper feeding, a spring-loaded feed mechanism with a roller bearing is required. Also, the extruder must support the filament between the exit of the drive gear and the entrance to the melt chamber.
  • The use of PTFE (teflon) guide tubes may be beneficial to further reduce pull at the extruder.
NinjaFlex 210°C - 225°C
  • Refer to the following link for official settings: http://www.ninjaflex3d.com/support/using-ninjaflex/printer-settings
  • Set your print bed temperature to approximately 20°C - 50°C.
  • Performs best in printers with direct-drive extruders.
  • Bowden extruders are not ideal for printing flexible filaments.
  • For proper feeding, a spring-loaded feed mechanism with a roller bearing is required. Also, the extruder must support the filament between the exit of the drive gear and the entrance to the melt chamber.
  • The use of PTFE guide tubes may be beneficial to further reduce pull at the extruder.
  • A heated build plate is not required in order to successfully print with NinjaFlex.
  • NinjaFlex bonds well to most surfaces (including aluminum and glass, blue painters tape, etc.), so coating the build platform is not necessary. Kapton tape can be used with NinjaFlex, but the adhesion of the printed part to the tape may be stronger than the adhesive holding the tape to the build platform.
  • NinjaFlex generally works well at similar extruder settings to ABS; however, adjusting the printer’s retraction settings can improve stop/start print quality. Also, it may be necessary to reduce the print speed to approximately 30mm/s.
  • For 1.75mm filament, 2-3mm of retraction works well.
  • For tall thin parts, supports may need to be designed-in to prevent the model from flexing as the print head traverses.
  • For bridging, NinjaFlex behaves similarly to ABS and may be substituted in prints designed for ABS.
  • When switching from another polymer (such as ABS or PLA) purge thoroughly before starting a print.
BendLay 215°C - 240°C
  • While printing with high speed, best layer adhesion can be obtained at 240°C.
  • Soluble in brake cleaner; acetone will make Bendlay crumble.
  • Sticks well to ABS and PLA
Laywoo-D3 165°C - 250°C
  • 165°C - 180°C for bright/light color wood effect.
  • 210°C - 245°C for darker wood effect.
  • Sticks well to the print bed, no heated bed necessary.
  • We recommend using a 0.5mm nozzle to prevent the nozzle from clogging.
Laybrick 165°C - 210°C
  • 165°C for smoother surfaces.
  • 210°C for rougher surfaces.
  • Sticks well to the print bed, no heated bed necessary.
  • Fan needs to be on.
  • Wait 2-4 hours after printing until object is hardened, before removing it from platform.
  • Try to print in warm rooms (20°C or more), the the filament is more bendable then.
  • Use M227 code: f.e. S 30000 P 10000.
  • Layer-thickness from 0.1 mm to 0.5 mm.
  • Slicing: object fill max. 25%.
Thermochrome PLA Aprox. 210°C
  • Follow same recommendations as regular PLA.
  • If printed part is < 29°C it will have an opaque anthracite Grey color.
  • If printed part is > 29°C it will have a translucent / White color.
Nylon PA 6 240°C - 280°C
  • Can't be printed on glass.
  • Print on cardboard to prevent warping. Best results achieved on Garolite. Other/cheaper alternatives include poplar wood or PVA/UHU Glue.
  • Set your print bed temperature to approximately 120°C. (This may vary depending on your print surface)
  • If foam comes out of the nozzle, the material has to be dried at ~ 148°C for 3-4 hours.
  • Overfilling the part will make a gooey mess.
PETG 230°C - 250°C
  • Set your print bed temperature to approximately 60°C. If not using a heated bed, try raising your hot-end temperature by a few degrees.
  • To get the optimal temperature; start from 230°C and continue to raise the temperature until the printers starts browning the print regularly, from that point, drop the temperature by a couple of degrees and your set. Make a note for follow-on prints.
  • Print on PVA mixed in water, 1 to 4, 1 to 3 ratio. Let it dry after application.
  • No cooling required during the print
  • No raft. (if the print bed is not heated, consider using brim instead, 5 or more mm wide.)
Taulman T-Glase 207°C - 238°C
  • Easily prints to acrylic, glass, Kapton and other platforms
  • T-glase is a thicker melt and likes higher temps from small nozzles. If t-glase is too cold, it will not extrude well.
  • If t-glase is too hot, it will print a lot of bubbles in the threads.
  • Optimum temperature is about 212°C to 224°C, but will print down to 207°C and up to about 238°C+.
  • Try 238°C with a .4mm or .25mm nozzles
  • To find the optimal temperature for your setup and printer, we suggest starting at 238°C and increasing the temperature (even if it prints fine) until you see a lot of bubbles at about the 4th layer up (first layer is slower so it will have some bubbles). Once you find that spot, reduce the temperature down by 5°C and you're set. Make a note for follow-on prints.
  • Complete details available here: http://www.taulman3d.com/t-glase-features.html
Taulman Nylon 618 Aprox. 245°C
  • 618 will not print/stick to glass or aluminum print beds.
  • The best print bed material for a new user is a flat piece of unfinished poplar wood or blue painters tape.
  • Complete details available here: http://www.taulman3d.com/618-features.html
Taulman Nylon 645 Aprox. 245°C
  • 645 will not print/stick to glass or aluminum print beds.
  • The best print bed material for a new user is a flat piece of unfinished poplar wood or blue painters tape.
  • Complete details available here: http://www.taulman3d.com/645-features.html
Taulman "Bridge" Nylon Aprox. 245°C
  • Use PVA glue, either full strength or diluted on your print bed.
  • Complete details available here: http://www.taulman3d.com/bridge-features.html
Polycarbonate (PC) 250°C - 320°C
  • If left out for in the open air for a few days (or less in a humid environment), will need to be dried before printing. 120°C for 4 hours.
  • Set your print bed temperature to approximately 120°C - 130°C.
  • Printing at higher flow-rates will require higher extruder temperatures for a consistent melt.
  • Those with Bowden style extruders will need to watch for signs of excessive force where the Bowden tube meets the filament driver and hotend.
  • Sticks well to "ABS Juice" (brushed down before hand)
  • Sticks well to Kapton tape when using heated print bed.
  • Some users experience success with a Garolite heated bed. Other had good results with superglue on cool glass and then heating the bed to 125C - 130C.
PolyMax PLA 180°C - 240°C
  • For the 1. 75mm, the recommended printing temperature is 185°C - 200°C with a heated print bed OR 200°C - 230°C without a heated print bed.
  • For the 3.00mm, the recommended printing temperature range is 200°C - 230°C.
  • Set your print bed temperature to approximately 60°C - 70°C.
  • The recommended printing speed is 40 - 120 mm/s.
PolyFlex 210°C - 240°C
  • Recommended printing temperature is: 220°C - 235°C.
  • Heated print bed not required.
  • Recommended printing speed: 30 - 60 mm/s.
  • For proper feeding, a spring-loaded feed mechanism is recommended.
  • Good adhesion to most build plate surfaces including as blue tape, Kapton/Polyimide tape, etc.
  • Can be used on dual-extruder printers.
Carbon Fiber Reinforced PLA 190°C - 230°C
  • Processing is comparable to standard PLA.
  • No heated bed required.
  • Due to increased brittleness, process may be less consistent on smaller nozzles and/or bowden type machines.
  • Nozzle size: 0.35mm - 0.5mm
  • Good results were achieved when printing using a 0.5mm nozzle and direct-drive spring loaded pinch-roll style extrusion head. Layer adhesion was excellent and warpage was low.
Polycarbonate ABS (PC-ABS) 260°C - 285°C
  • Heated bed is recommended. Cross-sectional area should be minimized.
  • Drying in an oven for ~ 1hr at 85°C - 95°C may be required for bubble free high strength prints.
  • Nozzle size: 0.25mm - 0.5mm
  • Good results achieved when printing small parts using a .5mm nozzle and direct-drive spring loaded pinch-roll style extrusion head.
High Temperature PLA 190°C - 230°C
  • Processing is comparable to standard PLA.
  • No heated bed required, though a heated bed may help crystallize the material after printing and make oven soaking unnecessary for some parts.
  • Nozzle size: 0.25mm - 0.5mm
  • Good results achieved when printing using a .5mm nozzle and direct-drive spring loaded pinch-roll style extrusion head. Layer adhesion was excellent and warpage was low.
EasyFil 2.85mm PLA 210°C - 220°C
  • Can be printed both with and without a heated print bed. However, if your printer is equipped with a heated print bed we recommend to set your heat bed temperature to 35° - 60°C.
  • Sticks well to blue masking tape and extra strong hairspray
  • Print speed guidline: 40 - 80 mm/s
EasyFil 2.85mm ABS 220°C - 260°C
  • Recommended to use a heated print bed. Ideally your print bed temperature should be set at approximately 90°C - 110 °C.
  • ABS will bend under too much heat. After the first few layers, it’s best to turn down your print bed temperature a bit.
  • Sticks well to Kapton, PET tape, extra strong hair spray and ABS juice.
TPU (Flexible Polyurethane) 195°C - 230°C
  • Print slow. Please try printing at 30mm/s or even less.
  • Set your print bed temperature to approximately 70°C.
  • Cooling fan: On
  • Performs best in printers with direct-drive extruders.
  • Bowden type extruders are not ideal for printing flexible filaments.
  • Reduce retraction.
  • Your extruder should support the filament between the exit of the drive gear. to the entrance to the melt chamber.
  • When switching from another polymer (such as ABS or PLA) purge thoroughly before starting a print.
Flame Retardant/Resistant ABS 230°C - 250°C
  • Same as printing normal ABS.
  • Heated print bed recommended. Set your print bed temperature to approximately 110°C.
Wood 200°C - 260°C
  • Set your print bed temperature to approximately 90°C-110°C.
  • Cooling fan: ON
Conductive / Anti-Static ABS 230°C - 250°C
  • Same as printing normal ABS.
  • Heated print bed recommended. Set your print bed temperature to approximately 110°C.
  • Cooling fan not necessary
EasyWood Coconut 210°C - 220°C
  • Can be printed without a heated print bed. If your printer is however equipped with a heated print bed we recommend to set your heat bed temperature to ± 35° to 60°C.
  • Sticks well to an unprepared print bed or masking tape.
  • Print speed guideline: 40 - 100 mm/s
Porolay Porous Gel 225°C - 235°C
  • Remember that this is an experimental material for experienced users!
  • A heated bed is not necessary
  • Store filament in a dry place, if it gets wet over time, dry it in oven at 80° for several hours; After drying printed objects will be hot-sealable.
  • For maximum flexibility rinse printed object in tap water for 1 to 4 days. Shorten rinsing time by printing less walls/shells and less filling %.
Taulman3D Flexible PCTPE 225°C - 230°C
  • Prints on bowdens or direct drive extruder.
  • Prints on glass with a 50% water/PVA glaze heated to 40°C
Revised: January 23, 2015

3D Printer Filament Temperature (+ Chart) (2022)

Knowing the temperature of the filament you want to use is critical in 3D printing. Read on to find the melting points of various filaments. Also, download our handy 3D printing filament chart that you can use for reference in your workshop.

In the world of 3D printing, there are various plastics with different characteristics, including temperatures. It is important to choose the correct temperature when printing. A change of even 1°C can completely change the quality of the model it terms of appearance and strength.

In this Guide

3D Printing Temperature

The most important thing is the nozzle temperature. This temperature will determine how the filament will be  squeezed out and adhered to the previous layers.

If the temperature is too high, it will cause the model to be out of shape, create cavities or even damage the printer. The model will also be affected as the plastic will not have time to solidify in the place where the printer squeezed it out. It will move a little.

If the temperature is too low, the plastic may not be extruded in sufficient volume. This will impair the strength and appearance of the model. If the plastic is too hard, then the printer will not be able to extrude the required volume.

The temperature of the printbed is important for the adhesion of the first layer. Thermal chamber technology allows you to prevent cracks if the plastic shrinkage (i. e., the decrease in volume with a drop in temperature) is too high. However, this technology is rarely found in budget 3D printers.

Let’s look at the most popular 3D printer filaments, their printing temperatures and features.

3D Printer Filament Temperatures

1. PLA

PLA is an abbreviation for polylactide. The material is made from corn and sugarcane, and is one of the safest plastics for household use.

Due to its ease of 3D printing and low toxicity, this filament is highly recommended for newbie 3D printing enthusiasts.

Temperature Settings:
  • Nozzle temperature: 190-210°C
  • Printbed temperature: 60-70°C
  • Fan speed: 100%

The printing temperature of PLA filament is one of the lowest among all the 3D printing materials. However, you should pay attention to the fan speed of the model as this plastic remains flexible over a wide temperature range. If the airflow is insufficient, the edges and corners of the model may be bent.

For the model to stick better to the table, set the nozzle temperature to about 210°C and the printbed temperature to about 70°C. On the second and subsequent layers, reduce the temperature so as to prevent the edges from creasing.

2. ABS

Despite the difficulties in 3D printing with ABS, it is the second most popular material as it combines cheapness and versatility. This filament is more flexible than PLA, and allows you to print springs and bendable parts.

Due to its lower strength, it is easier to process ABS models mechanically with files and sandpaper. However, the filament releases toxins when heated. Therefore, it is not recommended for use in printing kitchen utensils.

Temperature Settings:
  • Nozzle temperature: 230-250°C
  • Printbed temperature: 90-100°C
  • Fan speed: 50-75%

ABS plastic has a large shrinkage. Therefore, avoid increasing the fan speed above 40-60%. However, if there are small parts or printing bridges, you can increase the speed to 75-80%.

Cooling down too quickly can cause the part to crack during printing.

The strength of ABS filament highly depends on the temperature set. So, if accuracy is not so important, then it is better to increase the temperature up to 250°C. If you print at the lowest temperature, then the strength of the part can be reduced by 2 times than if it were printed at the maximum allowable temperature.

Be careful: When printing with ABS plastic indoors, you may experience dizziness or headaches! Make sure you 3D print in a well-ventilated area. Also, use an enclosure to prevent the fumes from the plastic from harming you.

3. PETG

This plastic has great chemical resistance. It’s property combines the strength of PLA with the flexibility of ABS. Therefore it is used in the manufacture of dishes.

However, with the filament, it takes a long time to adjust the correct temperatures specifically for your printer in order to remove all printing defects.

Temperature Settings
  • Nozzle temperature: 230-260°C
  • Printbed temperature: 60-90°C
  • Fan speed: 25-50%

When printing with PETG, there is often a problem with “hairs” on some parts of the model. To prevent such cases, you can increase the retract distance. Changing the temperature will hardly change the situation.

Because of the low adhesion of the plastic to itself, the fan speed should not be set higher than 50%. Otherwise, the model will easily break between layers.

4. HIPS

This plastic is used as a support material when printing on printers with multiple extruders. Usually, the main plastic is ABS or PLA, since they are neutral to D-limonene, and HIPS is soluble in it. This allows for nearly perfect overhangs.

Temperature Settings
  • Nozzle temperature: 230-240°C
  • Printbed temperature: 90-100°C
  • Fan speed: 0%

Since the strength and hardness of this plastic is extremely low (sometimes it can be pushed through with a fingernail), it should not be used as the main material of the model. No blowing is needed because even when using HIPS for the entire model, it hardens during the printing of the layer.

5. SBS

The main properties of this plastic are transparency and flexibility. With this filament, you can make bending parts, such as hinges, fasteners, clamps, and other. When the model is processed with a solvent, it becomes almost completely transparent as in the photo below.

However, when working with SBS, two rules must be followed:

  • The walls should be thin walls
  • The space between the walls should be completely filled

Temperature Settings

  • Nozzle temperature: 220-230°C
  • Printbed temperature: 60-80°C
  • Fan speed: 50-100%

Tip: If you need to print a sealed part, then the flow should be increased by 1-2%. This will increase the size discrepancy relative to the model but make the model completely sealed.

6. Nylon

This filament is familiar to many in everyday life, thanks to nylon clothing. The material is used in the manufacture of gears and other moving elements due to its flexibility, strength and low coefficient of friction.

Temperature Settings
  • Nozzle temperature: 240-260°C
  • Printbed temperature: 70-90°C
  • Fan speed: 0-25%

This filament requires a long selection of the right temperatures as it has many problems, including poor sintering capacity between layers, low adhesion, hygroscopicity (the ability to absorb moisture from the air), among otheers.

The latter characteristic is especially important since it radically changes the behavior of the plastic. Due to the presence of water particles in the plastic, the model becomes very fragile and the surface becomes rough, such as in the photo below.

Therefore, it is imperative to keep the plastic dry.

If you do not know whether the filamnet has absorbed moisture, dry it using special devices or in the oven at a temperature of 60-70°C for 2-5 hours.

7. TPU

Some people call this plastic “rubber” because it is the most flexible material for 3D printing. The filament can stretch up to 4 times its initial size. At the same time, over time, it returns to its original form.

Temperature Settings
  • Nozzle temperature: 210-240°C
  • Printbed temperature: 50-70°C
  • Fan speed: 50-100%

Due to its flexibility, printing problems can occur. The most common problem is the filament chewing in the feeder. Printing with this plastic is recommended only in direct extruders at low speeds not exceeding 40 mm/s.

You can try to print them in bowdens, but then the speed should be no more than 20-30 mm/s. Otherwise, the filament will curl up in the tube and print will stop.

This problem is caused by the gap between the hole where the filament exits the extruder and the feed gear. To solve this problem, you can use special spacers to reduce this gap.

8. PVA

PVA is a water soluble filament used for printing supports. It has low strength, which makes it impossible to use as the main material of model.

Unlike HIPS, which has similar properties and applications, PVA is much easier to remove from the part because, even when heated and dissolved in water, it is completely harmless.

Temperature Settings
  • Nozzle temperature: 220-230°C
  • Printbed temperature: 65-75°C
  • Fan speed: 0-50%

Since this plastic is only needed to create supports, avoid using blowing. If you need a high-quality part made entirely of PVA plastic (for example, a soluble cork or fastener), then the blowing speed should be below 50% since the adhesion of the layers of this filamnet is extremely low.

You can increase the strength of a PVA plastic model with water. To do this,  carefully moisten the part, wait 5-7 minutes and dry the surface. This way, the outer walls of the part will “stick” to each other much more, thereby increasing the overall strength of the part.

9. PC

PC stands for polycarbonate. This 3D printing filament has more strength but relatively little flexibility than PLA. Also, when lit, it tends to self-extinguish. Therefore, it is a good material to use for parts for fire safety.

Temperature Settings
  • Nozzle temperature: 290-310°C
  • Printbed temperature: 90-120°C
  • Fan speed: 0-25%

Like PETG, this plastic is very hygroscopic. Therefore, it should be stored in a dry space or in a bag with silica gel. Due to the need to maintain high temperatures and storage characteristics, polycarbonate is not widely used in 3D printing.

10. PEEK

This plastic is difficult to 3D print but has outstanding mechanical properties. Therefore, parts are made from it are designed to work with high loads and friction. The filament is also neutral to various chemicals.

Temperature Settings
  • Nozzle temperature: 350-410°C
  • Printbed temperature: 120-150°C
  • Fan speed: 0-25%

To print PEEK, you must use professional 3D printers. If you use a 3D printer intended for home use, there is a possibility of burning the extruder and the heating element in it.

A heated heat chamber is also required.

Composite Plastics

This category includes filaments containing particles of any material. This material consists of two parts: the base (usually PLA, ABS or other plastic) and the added component (wood, metal, ceramic or carbon fibers).

These plastics differ not only by the type of added component, but also by the percentage. Typically, the higher the content of the additional component, the more the properties of the plastic differ from those of the base.

The temperature depends on the base of the filament. All temperature settings must be obtained from the manufacturer.

A common feature of all filaments in this category is the need to use a nozzle with a large outlet diameter (from 0.5mm). Otherwise, the nozzle will quickly become clogged with the added component.

The material of the nozzle is also important as normal brass nozzles will wear off quickly. Hardened steel nozzles are usually sufficient.

Setting the Printer Temperature

Ensure that the printer is heating the nozzle to the correct temperature before printing, and that it does so without jumps. To do this, confirm that the printer’s firmware is configured and that the thermocouple is installed correctly.

Correct Installation of the Thermocouple in the Hotend

The printer receives data on the temperature of the hotend using a thermocouple installed in the hotend. Usually, there is a special hole for this. You need to insert the thermocouple into it as deep as possible and secure its wire.

Most printers have a hole in the hotend where the screw is screwed in. Run two wires on opposite sides of the center of the screw to securely fix the thermocouple in the hotend. If no thermocouple attachment is provided, fix the thermocouple wire to the heating element wire. See the photo below for an example on how to do it.

Attention: a loose thermocouple can fall out of the hotend, thereby creating a fire hazard!

Configuring the Firmware

If the printer is going to be assembled on its own, select the type of thermocouple in the firmware. If you are going to use the Marlin firmware, go to the Configuration.h file, and find the line:

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 0

In place of the last digit, there may not be a zero but another digit. In most cases, if your printer has a thermistor in the form of a “droplet”, then instead of the last digit, put 1. As a result, you should have the line:

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1

If the printer detects the temperature incorrectly, trying changing the last digit to a different one. A list of numbers and the thermocouples they represent is written above this setting.

The table has the same setting, it can be found by the line:

#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 0

Here you should also change 0 to 1.

PID setting

This abbreviation hides a complex name: proportional-integral-differential regulator. In simple terms, this is a function that allows you to more accurately keep the temperature within the specified limits.

Since the printer can only turn on and off the heating element, the only way to control the temperature is to turn off the heating element when the required temperature is reached, and turn it on if the temperature has dropped below the set value. But in this case, the temperature will “jump” strongly due to the inertness of the heater. This is precisely why the PID function exists – to compensate for the inertness of the heater.

However, each printer needs its own PID setting since the inertia can vary greatly depending on many parameters.

The PID setting requires a wired connection to the printer. The best way to send commands is to use Repetier-Host . As soon as you connect to the printer, send this command to it:

M303 C3 S210

Here, the number after C is responsible for the number of heating-cooling cycles the printer will go through. The number after S defines the temperature for which the PID is adjusted. Although the printer will be set at a certain temperature, these settings will work for higher temperatures as well.

After some time, the printer will send the values ​​of three PID parameters to the console: Kp, Ki and Kd. These parameters are responsible for setting the PID. To enter these numbers in the printer settings, you need to send the command:

M301 P14.82 I0.8 D68.25

Here, the letters P, I, and D are followed by the corresponding Kp, Ki, and Kd values ​​from the previous step. If you enter this command, the PID setting will only be saved until you turn off the printer.

You can add this command to the starting GCODE for each model you will be printing. In some printers, you can change these settings through the menu on the printer itself.

Softening Point and Post-processing

After 3D printing, you can process the part using heat to increase its strength or even change its geometry. At home, you can use the oven for these purposes.

However, be careful: some plastics emit hazardous substances when heated. Therefore, it is better to use other methods. For example, a steam bath, hot water, or hair dryer can be an alternative.

The main parameter of such processing is temperature. You need a sufficiently high temperature for the material of the model to begin to pass from a solid state to a sluggish-flowing one, but not exceed a certain temperature threshold, after which the part can change its geometry uncontrollably.

Here is a list of filaments and their softening points:

  • PLA – 70°C
  • ABS – 105°C
  • PETG – 80°C
  • HIPS – 85°C
  • Nylon – 125°C
  • TPU – 95°C
  • PC – 145°C
  • PEEK – 255°C

The data is relatively inaccurate, since filaments do not have a specific temperature when they completely go from one state to another.

3D Printer Filament Temperature Chart

If you often use different filaments, we have prepared a chart with all the information you need to set the temperature of your 3D printer on the fly.

Plastic Nozzle temperature (° C) Printbed temperature (°C) Blowing speed (%) Peculiarities
PLA 190 – 210 60 – 70 100 Security

Strength
ABS 230 – 250 90 – 100 50 – 75 Flexibility
PETG 230 – 260 60 – 90 25 – 50 Chemically neutral

Abrasion resistant
HIPS 230 – 240 90 – 100 0 Soluble support
SBS 220 – 230 60 – 80 50 – 100 Transparency, great flexibility
Nylon 240 – 260 70 – 90 0 – 25 Chemically neutral

Heat resistance
TPU 210 – 240 50 – 70 50 – 100 Great flexibility

Frost resistance
PVA 220 – 230 65 – 75 0 – 50 Water solubility
PC 290 – 310 90 – 120 0 – 25 Strength

Heat resistance
PEEK 350 – 410 120 – 150 0 – 25 Durability
Heat / frost resistance

The melting temperature of plastic on a 3D printer and the subtleties of its choice

  • ABS
  • Petg
  • HIPS
  • SBS
  • Nylon
  • TPU
  • PVA
    • Peek
  • Composite plastics
  • Temperature setting on the printer
    • Correct setting of the thermocouple in the hotend
    • Firmware setting
    • PID setting
  • Softening temperature and post-processing
  • Universal table
    • 9001 In the world of 3D printing, there are many different plastics with different characteristics, including different temperature conditions. It is very important to choose the right temperature when printing, as a change of even 1 degree can completely change the quality of the model: its appearance and strength.

    Types of plastics and their melting points

    The most important is the choice of nozzle temperature, because it determines how exactly the plastic will extrude and stick to the previous layers.

    Too high will result in model geometry distortion, cavities, or even printer failure. This will also affect the model: the plastic will not have time to harden in the place where the printer squeezed it out and move a little. Also, with a slight cooling of the throat, traffic jams will appear in it, completely stopping the seal.


    And at too low a temperature, the plastic can be squeezed out in insufficient volume, thereby deteriorating the strength and appearance of the model. If the plastic is too hard, then the printer will not be able to push through the required volume.


    The temperature of the table is important for the adhesion (adhesion) of the first layer. Rarely seen in budget printers, but still fairly well known, thermal chamber technology helps prevent cracking if the shrinkage of the plastic (i.e. reduction in volume with a drop in temperature) is too high. Next, we look at the most popular plastics, their print temperatures and features.

    PLA ​​

    This abbreviation stands for polylactide. Made from corn and sugar cane, PLA is one of the safest plastics for home use. Due to its ease of 3D printing and low toxicity, this plastic is the most popular for beginning 3D printers.

    Temperature settings:

    • Nozzle temperature: 190-210°C

    • Table temperature: 60-70°C

    • Fan speed: 100%

    The printing temperature of PLA plastic is one of the lowest among all the variety of materials, but it is worth paying attention to the fan speed of the model, as this plastic remains flexible over a wide range of temperatures. With insufficient airflow, the edges and corners of the model may be bent. In order for the model to adhere better to the table, it is necessary to set the temperature of the nozzle to about 210°C, and the temperature of the table to about 70°C. On the second and subsequent layers, it is better to reduce the temperature in order to prevent the above problems with curling edges.

    ABS

    Despite the difficulties in 3D printing with this plastic, it is the second most popular, as it combines cheapness and versatility. Much more flexible than PLA plastic, allowing springs and bendable parts to be printed. Due to its lower strength, it is easier to process it mechanically: with needle files and sandpaper. But due to the release of toxins when heated, this plastic is best not used when printing dishes or kitchen appliances.

    Temperature settings:

    • Nozzle temperature: 230-250°C

    • Table temperature: 90-100°C

    • Fan speed: 50-75%

    ABS plastic shrinks a lot, so it is better not to increase the fan speed above 40-60%, but if there are small parts or printing of bridges, then the speed can be increased to 75-80%. If the part cools too quickly, it may crack right during printing.


    The strength of this plastic is highly dependent on temperature, so if accuracy is not so important, then it is better to increase the temperature up to 250 ° C. If you print at the lowest temperature, then the strength of the part may decrease by 2 times, relative to the same model printed at the maximum allowable temperature.

    Be careful when printing with ABS indoors, you may experience dizziness or headache! Printing on a 3D printer should be carried out in well-ventilated areas, covering the 3D printer from direct drafts so that the fumes from the plastic do not harm you.

    PETG

    This plastic has a high chemical resistance, so it is used in the manufacture of dishes. At the same time, it combines the strength of PLA plastic and the flexibility of ABS. But it takes a long time to set the correct temperatures for your printer in order to remove all print defects.

    Temperature settings:

    • Nozzle temperature: 230-260°C

    • Table temperature: 60-90°C

    • Fan speed: 25-50%

    Often there is a problem with “hairs” in some parts of the model. In such cases, the retract distance can be increased. Changing the temperature does little to change the situation. Due to the low adhesion of plastic to itself, the fan speed should not be adjusted above 50%, otherwise the model will easily break apart between layers.

    HIPS

    This plastic is used as a backing material for printers with multiple extruders. Usually the main plastic is ABS or PLA, since they are neutral to D-limonene, and HIPS is completely soluble in it. This allows you to get an almost perfect quality of overhanging elements.

    Temperature settings:

    • Nozzle temperature: 230-240°C

    • Table temperature: 90-100°C

    • Fan speed: 0%

    Since the strength and hardness of this plastic is extremely low (sometimes it can be pushed through with a fingernail), it should not be used as the main material of the model. Airflow is not needed, because even when using HIPS for the entire model, it has time to harden during the printing of the layer.

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    SBS

    The main property of this plastic is transparency and flexibility. This allows you to make bending parts: loops, fasteners, clamps. When processing the model with a solvent, the model becomes almost completely transparent, as in the photo below. But two simple rules must be observed: thin walls and complete filling of the space between them.


    Temperature settings:

    • Nozzle temperature: 220-230°C

    • Table temperature: 60-80°C

    • Fan speed: 50-100%

    Tip: If you want to print a sealed part, then the flow should be increased by 1-2%. This will increase the dimensional discrepancy with respect to the model, but will make the model completely airtight.

    Nylon

    This plastic is familiar to many in everyday life thanks to nylon clothing. It is used in the manufacture of gears and other moving parts due to its flexibility, strength and low coefficient of friction.

    Temperature settings:

    • Nozzle temperature: 240-260°C

    • Table temperature: 70-90°C

    • Fan speed: 0-25%

    Plastic requires a long time to choose the right temperatures, as it has many problems: poor sintering between layers, low adhesion, hygroscopicity (the ability to absorb moisture from the air). The last characteristic is extremely important, since it radically changes the behavior of plastic. Due to the presence of water particles in the plastic, the model becomes very fragile, and the surface is rough, for example, as in the photo below.


    Therefore, it is extremely important to keep the plastic dry. And if it is not known whether the plastic has gained moisture, then it is better to dry it using special devices or in an oven at a temperature of 60-70 ° C for 2-5 hours.

    TPU

    Some call this plastic “rubber”. And this name suits it, because it is the most plastic material for 3D printing, capable of stretching up to 4 times, relative to its initial size. However, over time, it returns to its original form.

    Temperature settings:

    • Nozzle temperature: 210-240°C

    • Table temperature: 50-70°C

    • Fan speed: 50-100%

    Due to its flexibility, printing problems can occur, namely plastic jamming in the feed mechanism. It is recommended to print with this plastic only in direct extruders at low speeds, not exceeding 40 mm/s. You can try to print them in bowdens, but then the speed should be no more than 20-30 mm / s, otherwise the filament will curl up in the tube and the printing will stop.


    The cause of this problem is the gap between the hole where the filament exits the extruder and the feed gear. Special spacers that reduce this gap will help solve this problem.

    PVA

    Water soluble plastic used for printing supports. It has low strength, which makes it impossible to use as the main material of the part. Unlike HIPS, which has similar properties and applications, PVA is much easier to remove from the part, since even when heated and dissolved in water, it remains absolutely harmless.

    Temperature settings:

    • Nozzle temperature: 220-230°C

    • Table temperature: 65-75°C

    • Fan speed: 0-50%

    Since this plastic is only needed to create supports, it is better not to use airflow. If a high-quality part is required, consisting entirely of PVA plastic (for example, a soluble cork or fastener), then the blowing speed should be below 50%, since the adhesion of the layers of this plastic is extremely low. You can increase the strength of the PVA plastic model with water: you need to gently moisten the part, wait 5-7 minutes and dry the surface. Thus, the outer walls of the part will “stick” to each other much more strongly, thereby increasing the overall strength of the part.


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    PC

    This name stands for polycarbonate. It has great strength, but has relatively little flexibility, less than that of PLA. Also, when tanning, it tends to self-extinguishing, which increases fire safety.

    Temperature settings:

    • Nozzle temperature: 290-310°C

    • Table temperature: 90-120°C

    • Fan speed: 0-25%

    Like PETG, this plastic is very hygroscopic, so it needs to be stored in a dry space, preferably in a silica gel bag. Due to the need to maintain high temperatures and storage characteristics, polycarbonate is not widely used in 3D printing.

    PEEK

    This plastic is difficult to 3D print, but it has outstanding mechanical characteristics. Therefore, parts are made from it, designed to work with high loads and friction. It is also neutral to various chemicals.

    Temperature settings:

    • Nozzle temperature: 350-410°C

    • Table temperature: 120-150°C

    • Fan speed: 0-25%

    To print PEEK, you need to have professional 3D printers. If you use a 3D printer designed for home use, then there is a chance of burning the extruder and the heating element in it. A heated chamber is also required.

    Composite plastics

    This category includes filaments containing particles of any material. Such a material consists of two parts: a base (usually PLA, ABS or other plastic) and an added component (wood, metal, ceramic or carbon fibers). These plastics differ not only in the type of added component, but also in percentage. Usually, the higher the content of the additional component, the more the properties of the plastic differ from those of the base.

    The temperature depends on the basis of which the filament is composed. All necessary parameters must be obtained from the manufacturer.

    A common feature of all plastics in this category is the need to use a nozzle with a large outlet diameter (from 0.5 mm). Otherwise, the nozzle will quickly become clogged with the added component. The material of the nozzle is also extremely important, as conventional brass nozzles will wear out quickly. Hardened steel nozzles are usually sufficient.

    Temperature setting on printer

    Before you start printing, it is very important to be sure that the printer heats the nozzle to the correct temperature and does it without jumps. To do this, you need to make sure that the printer firmware is configured and that the thermocouple is installed correctly.

    Correct placement of thermocouple in hot end

    The printer receives data on the temperature of the hotend using a thermocouple, which is installed in the hotend. Usually there is a special hole for this, you need to insert a thermocouple as deep as possible into it. It is important to secure the thermocouple wire. Often, for this purpose, there is a hole in the hot end where the screw is screwed. It is best to run two wires on opposite sides of the center of the screw. This will securely fix the thermocouple in the hotend. If there is no provision for mounting the thermocouple, then it is necessary to fix the thermocouple wire on the wire of the heating element. An example of how to do this is in the photo below.


    Attention: a poorly fixed thermocouple may fall out of the hot end, thereby creating a fire hazard!

    Firmware setting

    If the printer is assembled on its own, then it is important to select the type of thermocouple in the firmware. If you are going to use the Marlin firmware, then you need to go into the Configuration.h file and find the line:

    #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 0

    In place of the last digit, there may not be a zero, but another digit. In most cases, if your printer has a thermistor in the form of a “droplet”, then instead of the last digit you need to put 1. As a result, you should get a line:

    #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1

    If the printer determines the temperature incorrectly, then you should try changing the last digit to a different one. A list of numbers and the thermocouples they represent is written above this setting.

    The table has the same setting, it can be found by the line:

    #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 0

    Here you should also change 0 to 1.

    PID tuning

    This abbreviation hides a complex name: proportional-integral-differential controller. In simple terms, this is a function that allows you to more accurately keep the temperature within the specified limits. Since the printer can only turn the heating element on and off, the only way to control the temperature is to turn off the heating element when the desired temperature is reached, and turn it on if the temperature falls below the set temperature. But in this case, the temperature will “jump” strongly due to the inertia of the heater. This is what the PID function is for - to compensate for the inertia of the heater. But each printer needs its own PID setting, as the inertia can vary greatly depending on many parameters.

    PID tuning requires a wired connection to the printer. The best way to send commands is to use Repetier-Host. As soon as you connect to the printer, you need to send a command to it:

    M303 C3 S210

    Here, the number after C is the number of heat-up cycles the printer will go through, and the number after S is the temperature for which the PID is being tuned. Although the printer will be set at a certain temperature, these settings will work for higher temperatures.

    After some time, the printer will send to the console the values ​​of three PID parameters: Kp, Ki and Kd. These parameters are responsible for tuning the PID. To enter these numbers into the printer settings, you need to send a command:

    M301 P14.82 I0.8 D68.25

    Here, the letters P, I, and D are followed by the corresponding Kp, Ki, and Kd values ​​from the previous step. If you enter this command, then the PID setting will be saved only until the printer is turned off. You can add this command to the start GCODE for each model you will be printing. For some printers, you can change these settings through the printer's menu.

    Softening temperature and post-processing

    After 3D printing, you can process the part using high temperature. This allows you to increase its strength and change the geometry of the part. At home, you can use the oven for these purposes. But you should be careful: some plastics release hazardous substances when heated, so it is better to use other methods. For example, a steam bath, hot water, or a hair dryer can serve as an alternative. The main parameter of such processing is temperature. It is necessary to have a sufficiently high temperature so that the material of the model begins to change from a solid to a sluggish state, but not to exceed a certain temperature threshold, after which the part can change its geometry uncontrollably.

    List of plastics and their softening points:

    • PLA - 70°C

    • ABS - 105°C

    • PETG - 80°C

    • HIPS - 85°C

    • Nylon - 125°C

    • TPU - 95°C

    • PC - 145°C

    • PEEK - 255°C

    The data is relatively inaccurate because plastics don't have a specific temperature when they fully transition from one state to another.

    Universal table

    For those who often use various plastics, we have prepared a table containing all the necessary information for adjusting the temperature of a 3D printer on the fly.

    Plastic

    Nozzle temperature, °C

    Table temperature, °C

    Blowing speed, %

    Peculiarities

    PLA

    190 - 210

    60 - 70

    100

    Safety

    Strength

    ABS

    230 - 250

    90 - 100

    50 - 75

    Flexibility

    PETG

    230 - 260

    60 - 90

    25 - 50

    Chemically neutral

    Friction resistance

    HIPS

    230 - 240

    90 - 100

    0

    Soluble Supports

    SBS

    220 - 230

    60 - 80

    50 - 100

    Transparency, great flexibility

    Nylon

    240 - 260

    70 - 90

    0 - 25

    Chemically neutral

    Heat resistance

    TPU

    210 - 240

    50 - 70

    50 - 100

    Huge flexibility

    Frost resistance

    PVA

    220 - 230

    65 - 75

    0 - 50

    Water solubility

    PC

    290 - 310

    90 - 120

    0 - 25

    Strength

    Heat resistance

    PEEK

    350 - 410

    120 - 150

    0 - 25

    Strength
    Heat/frost resistance

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    Optimum temperatures for 3D printing PLA, PETG, Nylon and TPU plastics

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