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3D print abs temp


All you need to know about ABS for 3D printing

Published on June 6, 2019 by Carlota V.

ABS for Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene is a thermoplastic polymer quite common in the industry. It is mainly known for its good impact resistance at low temperatures and for creating lightweight parts. Mainly used in the household appliance sector, it is also found in boat hulls, decoration pieces, toys, and especially in the famous bricks developed by LEGO. ABS plastic is also very popular in the FDM 3D printing market – as it is the most widely used material in this sector with PLA.

Today, we give you an overview of the main characteristics of ABS plastic for 3D printing, including its printing parameters and applications.

Legos are manufactured with ABS

The production process

One of the first plastics to be used with industrial 3D printers, it was developed around 1990. This thermoplastic polymer is what is called a ‘terpolymer’ and obtained most often by polymerization of acrylonitrile and styrene in the presence of polybutadiene – generally 20% acrylonitrile, 25% butadiene and 55% styrene. Manipulating these proportions can therefore modify the properties of ABS; styrene, for example, is the element that gives ABS its rigidity and brilliance, while butadiene gives it its impact resistance and low temperature properties.

The plastic injection industry is one of the main consumers of ABS plastic: the material has good rigidity, high impact resistance and great lightness, while remaining very affordable in terms of price. It has also been a popular material in the 3D melt-deposited printing market for some years now, one of the first filaments used in the sector with PLA – both materials are easier to print than other technical and inexpensive thermoplastics.

ABS plastic is widely used in injection moulding | Credits: Plastic Precision Molding

The characteristics of ABS filaments in 3D printing

Available in the form of filaments with a diameter of 1.75 mm or 2.85 mm and in several colours, ABS has interesting properties for many industries that want to 3D print functional parts or prototypes. Although it is more difficult to print than PLA, ABS remains a very popular material for 3D printing professionals due to its resistance to impact and high temperature (between -20°C and 80°C). It is opaque, offers smooth and shiny surfaces and can be welded by chemical processes using acetone.

ABS has a melting temperature of around 200°C, it is therefore recommended that the extrusion temperature be between 230 and 260°C. The use of a heating plate (between 80 and 130°C) is mandatory: it is a plastic that shrinks on contact with air, causing the part to shrink (or warp) and thus detaching itself from the plate. For large parts, it is even advisable to use a special adhesive such as Kapton or an adhesive lacquer. Finally, a 3D printer with a closed enclosure is preferable because ABS plastic emits particles that can be dangerous for the user.

A heating plate is necessary to avoid the phenomenon of warping

In terms of printing supports, ABS is easily printed with HIPS, a material that has the same tray and extrusion temperatures. This material dissolves quickly in D-Limonene, a lemon-based solvent.

Little post-processing is required when printing with this thermoplastic polymer, a key advantage that will save time in the production of complex parts. It can be painted and resists well to time with few observed deformations. Finally, it is a material that must be kept dry because it absorbs moisture from the air, which will make it much more difficult to print.

Solutions such as the PolyBox allow to keep the filaments protected from humidity

The main manufacturers

Many players now offer ABS plastic in the form of filaments; among the main ones are the well-known supplier Stratasys, the Chinese Esun but also Ultimaker, FormFutura, Innofil3D, etc. There is a wide selection of colours, with prices ranging from 15 to 60€ depending on the brand.

Be aware that there are loaded filaments where additives are added to ABS: for example, ABS based on carbon fibres or aramid fibres, better known as Kevlar. These fibres, for example, reduce the warping phenomenon of ABS and therefore provide greater precision. Carbon, on the other hand, reinforces the initial mechanical properties of the material. These more technical materials are generally more expensive and have different printing parameters.

Several manufacturers now offer ABS plastic

Finally, although ABS plastic is mainly used in FDM 3D printing, there is an ABS resin for stereolithography that has the same mechanical properties as the ABS thermoplastic.

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HOW TO SUCCEED WHEN PRINTING WITH ABS

ABS is one of the most commonly used, and most versatile materials available in 3D printing today. If you're new to the scene though, it can be a bit daunting to start with. However, the payoff is worth it. Learning to print well with ABS is essential if you want strong, heat resistant parts.

 

 

 Table Of Contents

 

 • What is ABS?
 • Getting that first layer right
 • Printing on glass with Kapton/PET Tape 
 • If your first layer is not sticking
 • Getting the Temperature right
 • What to look for
 • Changing Filament
 • What to do when things go wrong

 

What is ABS?

Lego bricks made from ABS

 

 

ABS or Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene is a common thermoplastic. It’s a popular plastic for injection molding and it’s used to make legos, instruments, sports equipment and more.

 

If you’re used to printing with PLA, you’ll probably find ABS a little trickier to print with. There are a couple more steps required for each print, and it has a different set of printing settings. However, you need not despair. ABS is a strong and heat resistant filament, with awesome post processing options. With this article under your belt, things will be printing your way.

 

Getting that first layer right

 

As we discussed in our PLA article, getting the first layer down is the most important part of the print. Here are the key points:

 

 1. You need the print bed (or print surface) to be level.
 2. You need the extruder to be homed to the correct height from the bed.
 3. You need a good adhesive to assist your ABS in sticking to the bed.
 4. And of course, making sure that your extruder is heated to the right temperature.

 

 

Printing on glass with Kapton/PET tape

 

In order to print with ABS, you need a temperature controlled bed. The recommended bed temperature for ABS is 110.

 

Instead of printing directly on the glass, it’s better to print with Kapton/PET tape. This makes it easier to clean the bed after you’ve been printing for a while, as you can simply remove the tape, clearing any leftover adhesive or filament.

 

Having your bed level and extruder at the right height is extremely important when printing on tape.  If your extruder is too far from the glass your ABS simply will not stick. If the extruder is too low the glass it will completely block the extrusion of material and may cause a jam after extended periods.

 

You should also make sure that you have an adhesive of some sort. ABS requires something to bind itself to during the first layer of the print. The most commonly used adhesives are glue sticks, ABS slurry, and hairspray. We prefer hairspray because it’s easy to apply and smells nice. Make sure you get the kind with a plastic base. (We have used "Aqua Net Extra Super Hold")

Freshly applied PET tape

 

If your first layer is not sticking:

 

 1. Make sure the bed is level.
 2. Make sure the bed is hot enough.
 3. Make sure that the ambient temperature of the print environment isn’t too hot or cold (or else adjust accordingly).
 4. Make sure you put the adhesive on the bed.
 5. Make sure the print head is close enough to make a nice squished first layer.
 6. Make sure you run the extruder enough before your print starts so there is filament going onto the bed during the entire first layer.  In MatterControl you can set how much material you would like to extrude before the print starts, either with loops, or if your an expert GCode commands.

 

Kapton/PET tape is a great way to print ABS.  It makes a great shiny bottom layer and the heated bed ensures that your parts stay nice and flat. 

 

Getting the temperature right

 

When working with a new roll of filament for the first time, we generally like to start out printing at about 230c and then adjusting the temperature up or down by 5 degree increments until we get the quality of the print and the strength of the part to be in good balance with each other.

 

 

What to look for

 

If the temperature is too high:

 

You will see more strings between the separate parts of your print and you may notice that the extruder leaks out a lot of plastic while moving between separate areas of the print.  If this happens you should try to incrementally lower the temperature by 5 degrees until the extruder is not leaking so much material.  

 

Sometimes you will have a material that is simply less viscous than ABS and will leak more even at lower temperatures.  We recommend you increase the retraction a few millimeters (3-4 seems like a good number for most every ABS we have tried).

 

If the temperature is too cold:

 

You will either see that the filament is not sticking to the previous layer and you are getting a rough surface, or you will get a part that is not strong and can be pulled apart easily.  In either case, you should increase the temperature by 5 degrees and try again until you get good line segments on every layer and have a strong part when done printing.

A print gone cold. Check your retraction and heat for clean prints.

 

Changing filament

 

When switching ABS colors:

 

 1. While the extruder is cold set the heat to 120c and wait for it to heat up.
 2. When you reach 120c remove the current filament from the extruder.  You may be able to back it out by hand or you may need to reverse the extruder.
 3. If you are having trouble removing the filament, increase the temperature to 180c and try again.
 4. Clean the extruder gear and blow out any particles from the extruder entrance. 
 5. Increase the heat and load the new filament normally.
 6. Run the new color through the extruder until it runs clean and the new color is all that is coming out of the extruder. If you are switching from a dark color (such as black) to a light color (like white or natural) you may want to extrude for a few minutes to be you sure don't have any dark contamination.
 7. Print something that you don't care if it has bits of the previous color in it, or run the extruder for several minutes.  It may take as much as 10 to 15 minutes of extrusion before you can have confidence that there won't be dark material mixed with lighter material.

 

Note: We recommended removing the filament when soft rather than when fully melted so that there is a lower possibility of depositing melted material onto the extruder drive gear or leaving meterial high up the melt chamber entrance.  Both of which can cause jamming and are hard to clean out.  Soft removal also helps ensure that you get everything out of the extruder tip.

 

What to do when things go wrong

 

There are a few key things to check when your prints aren't working.  But before we look at solutions we need to have a brief description of your symptoms.

 

"I can't get the first layer to stick."

 

 1. Make sure the extruder is at the right height. Adjust the limit switch or extruder to 0 height
 2. Make sure the print bed is level. Level the bed.
 3. Make sure you’re printing at the right temperature and that your bed is the right temperature.
 4. Check the ambient temperature of your environment. If it’s too cold or too hot outside, your print can vary drastically!

 

 "The part has bad internal layers and top surfaces."

 

 1. Check the extrusion temperature (you may need to increase it by 5 degree bumps).
 2. Check the filament tension.
 3. Clean the filament drive gear.
 4. Decrease your speed.
 5. Make sure your part is properly cooled.

 

"The outside edges of my parts have lots of little bumps on them."

 

 1. Make sure your printer is getting enough data. If printing from a computer, ensure that the computer is not too busy to feed the printer commands. If the printer is pausing it is usually due to the printer being too busy.
 2. Print from the SD card. On some printers you can try and print from the SD card.  This often helps the printer have enough data to run more smoothly. 

 

However, don't be too quick to assume the problem is in your ABS.  With the right settings and patience hobbyists have succeeded in printing all sorts of materials many of which have very low viscosity.  You should be able to get usable parts even with some lower quality filament.

 

"Tall sections of my prints look melted or squished together."

 

 1. Turn on "Cooling". If your printer has a fan you should enable "Cooling" in the print settings.
 2. Get a small fan. If your printer does not have an integrated fan you should look into getting a small desk fan.  This can help dramatically with tall sections of your print or when "bridging" (printing top layers that span gaps).

 

 “My part is curling off the bed.”

 

 1. Make sure that you have a good amount of adhesive on the bed and that you’re applying a fresh layer with every print. In addition, turn on a brim. Having a brim that extends out a bit helps give the part a large base to work with, as well as having more to adhere to.

 

"My printer will not extrude any material."

 1. Make sure your hot end is getting hot. Check to make sure the hot end is heating at all.  If it is not, you need to have your printer serviced. It is likely that you have a loose connection, or your electronics have been fried (assuming the printer is still connected and responding to your host software).

 

 2. Clean the drive gear and adjust tension. The first thing we are going to do is clean the filament touching drive gear and ensure that we have proper tension against the filament.  Usually improper tension or a clogged drive gear will make the print look more like the picture we have for low temperature filament, but it sometimes does prevent extrusion all together.  Clean the pinch wheel with a wire brush, and make sure your tension is good and solid (too much can also prevent extrusion and is more common with direct drives [the motor is directly connected to the drive gear] but less common with geared drives).

 

 3. Remove the current filament. It may be that you have a small particle in your extruder tip jamming the plastic.  Use the change filament technique described above to pull out any particles that are in the extruder tip.

 

 4. Check for and remove jams between the extruder and hot end. This is the most extreme type of problem because now it's time to take things apart.  Sometimes heat can creep up the filament in the extruder and cause a bulge that then cools and prevents any further extrusion. This is usually at the junction between the extruder and hot end. Take off the extruder and remove all the ABS you can (you may need the hot end hot to get all the material out.)  If you can't get out all the filament by pulling, you may need to try and drive it down through the hot end. We usually use a small allen wrench.  If this fails you can try and drill out the extruder or hot end but you may need to replace parts.  Be sure to take precautions against being shocked or burned.  If you are not qualified to do this work, find someone who is, rather than risk injury.

The melting temperature of the plastic on the 3D printer and the subtleties of its choice

Content

    • Types of plastic and their melting temperatures
      • PLA
      • PEEK
      • Composite plastics
    • Setting the temperature on the printer
      • Proper installation of the thermocouple in the hotend
      • Setting the firmware
      • PID tuning
    • Softening temperature and post-processing
    • Universal table

In the world of 3D printing, there are many different plastics with different characteristics, including different temperature conditions. It is very important to choose the right temperature when printing, as a change of even 1 degree can completely change the quality of the model: its appearance and strength.

Types of plastics and their melting points

The most important is the choice of nozzle temperature, because it determines how exactly the plastic will extrude and stick to the previous layers.

Too high will result in model geometry distortion, cavities, or even printer failure. This will also affect the model: the plastic will not have time to harden in the place where the printer squeezed it out and move a little. Also, with a slight cooling of the throat, traffic jams will appear in it, completely stopping the seal.


And at too low a temperature, the plastic can be squeezed out in insufficient volume, thereby deteriorating the strength and appearance of the model. If the plastic is too hard, then the printer will not be able to push through the required volume.


The temperature of the table is important for the adhesion (adhesion) of the first layer. Rarely seen in budget printers, but still fairly well known, thermal chamber technology helps prevent cracking if the shrinkage of the plastic (i.e. reduction in volume with a drop in temperature) is too high. Next, we look at the most popular plastics, their print temperatures and features.

PLA

This abbreviation stands for polylactide. Made from corn and sugar cane, PLA is one of the safest plastics for home use. Due to its ease of 3D printing and low toxicity, this plastic is the most popular for beginning 3D printers.

Temperature settings:

  • Nozzle temperature: 190-210°C

  • Table temperature: 60-70°C

  • Fan speed: 100%

The printing temperature of PLA plastic is one of the lowest among all the variety of materials, but it is worth paying attention to the fan speed of the model, as this plastic remains flexible over a wide range of temperatures. With insufficient airflow, the edges and corners of the model may be bent. In order for the model to adhere better to the table, it is necessary to set the temperature of the nozzle to about 210°C, and the temperature of the table to about 70°C. On the second and subsequent layers, it is better to reduce the temperature in order to prevent the above problems with curling edges.

ABS

Despite the difficulties in 3D printing with this plastic, it is the second most popular, as it combines cheapness and versatility. Much more flexible than PLA plastic, allowing springs and bendable parts to be printed. Due to its lower strength, it is easier to process it mechanically: with needle files and sandpaper. But due to the release of toxins when heated, this plastic is best not used when printing dishes or kitchen appliances.

Temperature settings:

  • Nozzle temperature: 230-250°C

  • Table temperature: 90-100°C

  • Fan speed: 50-75%

ABS plastic shrinks a lot, so it is better not to increase the fan speed above 40-60%, but if there are small parts or printing of bridges, then the speed can be increased to 75-80%. If the part cools too quickly, it may crack right during printing.


The strength of this plastic is highly dependent on temperature, so if accuracy is not so important, then it is better to increase the temperature up to 250 ° C. If you print at the lowest temperature, then the strength of the part may decrease by 2 times, relative to the same model printed at the maximum allowable temperature.

Be careful when printing with ABS indoors, you may experience dizziness or headache! Printing on a 3D printer should be carried out in well-ventilated areas, covering the 3D printer from direct drafts so that the fumes from the plastic do not harm you.

PETG

This plastic has a high chemical resistance, so it is used in the manufacture of dishes. At the same time, it combines the strength of PLA plastic and the flexibility of ABS. But it takes a long time to set the correct temperatures for your printer in order to remove all print defects.

Temperature settings:

  • Nozzle temperature: 230-260°C

  • Table temperature: 60-90°C

  • Fan speed: 25-50%

Often there is a problem with “hairs” in some parts of the model. In such cases, the retract distance can be increased. Changing the temperature does little to change the situation. Due to the low adhesion of plastic to itself, the fan speed should not be adjusted above 50%, otherwise the model will easily break apart between layers.

HIPS

This plastic is used as a backing material for printers with multiple extruders. Usually the main plastic is ABS or PLA, since they are neutral to D-limonene, and HIPS is completely soluble in it. This allows you to get an almost perfect quality of overhanging elements.

Temperature settings:

  • Nozzle temperature: 230-240°C

  • Table temperature: 90-100°C

  • Fan speed: 0%

Since the strength and hardness of this plastic is extremely low (sometimes it can be pushed through with a fingernail), it should not be used as the main material of the model. Airflow is not needed, because even when using HIPS for the entire model, it has time to harden during the printing of the layer.

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SBS

The main property of this plastic is transparency and flexibility. This allows you to make bending parts: loops, fasteners, clamps. When processing the model with a solvent, the model becomes almost completely transparent, as in the photo below. But two simple rules must be observed: thin walls and complete filling of the space between them.


Temperature settings:

  • Nozzle temperature: 220-230°C

  • Table temperature: 60-80°C

  • Fan speed: 50-100%

Tip: If you want to print a sealed part, then the flow should be increased by 1-2%. This will increase the dimensional discrepancy with respect to the model, but will make the model completely airtight.

Nylon

This plastic is familiar to many in everyday life thanks to nylon clothing. It is used in the manufacture of gears and other moving parts due to its flexibility, strength and low coefficient of friction.

Temperature settings:

  • Nozzle temperature: 240-260°C

  • Table temperature: 70-90°C

  • Fan speed: 0-25%

Plastic requires a long time to choose the right temperatures, as it has many problems: poor sintering between layers, low adhesion, hygroscopicity (the ability to absorb moisture from the air). The last characteristic is extremely important, since it radically changes the behavior of plastic. Due to the presence of water particles in the plastic, the model becomes very fragile, and the surface is rough, for example, as in the photo below.


Therefore, it is extremely important to keep the plastic dry. And if it is not known whether the plastic has gained moisture, then it is better to dry it using special devices or in an oven at a temperature of 60-70 ° C for 2-5 hours.

TPU

Some call this plastic “rubber”. And this name suits it, because it is the most plastic material for 3D printing, capable of stretching up to 4 times, relative to its initial size. However, over time, it returns to its original form.

Temperature settings:

  • Nozzle temperature: 210-240°C

  • Table temperature: 50-70°C

  • Fan speed: 50-100%

Due to its flexibility, printing problems can occur, namely plastic jamming in the feed mechanism. It is recommended to print with this plastic only in direct extruders at low speeds, not exceeding 40 mm/s. You can try to print them in bowdens, but then the speed should be no more than 20-30 mm / s, otherwise the filament will curl up in the tube and the printing will stop.


The cause of this problem is the gap between the hole where the filament exits the extruder and the feed gear. Special spacers that reduce this gap will help solve this problem.

PVA

Water soluble plastic used for printing supports. It has low strength, which makes it impossible to use as the main material of the part. Unlike HIPS, which has similar properties and applications, PVA is much easier to remove from the part, since even when heated and dissolved in water, it remains absolutely harmless.

Temperature settings:

  • Nozzle temperature: 220-230°C

  • Table temperature: 65-75°C

  • Fan speed: 0-50%

Since this plastic is only needed to create supports, it is better not to use airflow. If a high-quality part is required, consisting entirely of PVA plastic (for example, a soluble cork or fastener), then the blowing speed should be below 50%, since the adhesion of the layers of this plastic is extremely low. You can increase the strength of the PVA plastic model with water: you need to gently moisten the part, wait 5-7 minutes and dry the surface. Thus, the outer walls of the part will “stick” to each other much more strongly, thereby increasing the overall strength of the part.


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PC

This name stands for polycarbonate. It has great strength, but has relatively little flexibility, less than that of PLA. Also, when tanning, it tends to self-extinguishing, which increases fire safety.

Temperature settings:

  • Nozzle temperature: 290-310°C

  • Table temperature: 90-120°C

  • Fan speed: 0-25%

Like PETG, this plastic is very hygroscopic, so it needs to be stored in a dry space, preferably in a silica gel bag. Due to the need to maintain high temperatures and storage characteristics, polycarbonate is not widely used in 3D printing.

PEEK

This plastic is difficult to 3D print, but it has outstanding mechanical characteristics. Therefore, parts are made from it, designed to work with high loads and friction. It is also neutral to various chemicals.

Temperature settings:

  • Nozzle temperature: 350-410°C

  • Table temperature: 120-150°C

  • Fan speed: 0-25%

To print PEEK, you need to have professional 3D printers. If you use a 3D printer designed for home use, then there is a chance of burning the extruder and the heating element in it. A heated chamber is also required.

Composite plastics

This category includes filaments containing particles of any material. Such a material consists of two parts: a base (usually PLA, ABS or other plastic) and an added component (wood, metal, ceramic or carbon fibers). These plastics differ not only in the type of added component, but also in percentage. Usually, the higher the content of the additional component, the more the properties of the plastic differ from those of the base.

The temperature depends on the basis of which the filament is composed. All necessary parameters must be obtained from the manufacturer.

A common feature of all plastics in this category is the need to use a nozzle with a large outlet diameter (from 0.5 mm). Otherwise, the nozzle will quickly become clogged with the added component. The material of the nozzle is also extremely important, as conventional brass nozzles will wear out quickly. Hardened steel nozzles are usually sufficient.

Temperature setting on the printer

Before you start printing, it is very important to be sure that the printer heats the nozzle to the correct temperature and does it without jumps. To do this, you need to make sure that the printer firmware is configured and that the thermocouple is installed correctly.

Proper placement of thermocouple in hot end

The printer receives data on the temperature of the hotend using a thermocouple, which is installed in the hotend. Usually there is a special hole for this, you need to insert a thermocouple as deep as possible into it. It is important to secure the thermocouple wire. Often, for this purpose, there is a hole in the hot end where the screw is screwed. It is best to run two wires on opposite sides of the center of the screw. This will securely fix the thermocouple in the hotend. If there is no provision for mounting the thermocouple, then it is necessary to fix the thermocouple wire on the wire of the heating element. An example of how to do this is in the photo below.


Attention: a poorly fixed thermocouple may fall out of the hot end, thereby creating a fire hazard!

Firmware setup

If the printer is assembled on its own, then it is important to select the type of thermocouple in the firmware. If you are going to use the Marlin firmware, then you need to go into the Configuration.h file and find the line:

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 0

In place of the last digit, there may not be a zero, but another digit. In most cases, if your printer has a thermistor in the form of a “droplet”, then instead of the last digit you need to put 1. As a result, you should get a line:

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1

If the printer determines the temperature incorrectly, then you should try changing the last digit to a different one. A list of numbers and the thermocouples they represent is written above this setting.

The table has the same setting, it can be found by the line:

#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 0

Here you should also change 0 to 1.

PID tuning

This abbreviation hides a complex name: proportional-integral-differential controller. In simple terms, this is a function that allows you to more accurately keep the temperature within the specified limits. Since the printer can only turn the heating element on and off, the only way to control the temperature is to turn off the heating element when the desired temperature is reached, and turn it on if the temperature falls below the set temperature. But in this case, the temperature will “jump” strongly due to the inertia of the heater. This is what the PID function is for - to compensate for the inertia of the heater. But each printer needs its own PID setting, as the inertia can vary greatly depending on many parameters.

PID tuning requires a wired connection to the printer. The best way to send commands is to use Repetier-Host. As soon as you connect to the printer, you need to send a command to it:

M303 C3 S210

Here, the number after C is the number of heat-up cycles the printer will go through, and the number after S is the temperature for which the PID is being tuned. Although the printer will be set at a certain temperature, these settings will work for higher temperatures.

After some time, the printer will send to the console the values ​​of three PID parameters: Kp, Ki and Kd. These parameters are responsible for tuning the PID. To enter these numbers into the printer settings, you need to send a command:

M301 P14.82 I0.8 D68.25

Here, the letters P, I, and D are followed by the corresponding Kp, Ki, and Kd values ​​from the previous step. If you enter this command, then the PID setting will be saved only until the printer is turned off. You can add this command to the start GCODE for each model you will be printing. For some printers, you can change these settings through the printer's menu.

Softening temperature and post-processing

After 3D printing, you can process the part using high temperature. This allows you to increase its strength and change the geometry of the part. At home, you can use the oven for these purposes. But you should be careful: some plastics release hazardous substances when heated, so it is better to use other methods. For example, a steam bath, hot water, or a hair dryer can serve as an alternative. The main parameter of such processing is temperature. It is necessary to have a sufficiently high temperature so that the material of the model begins to change from a solid state to a sluggish flow, but not to exceed a certain temperature threshold, after which the part can change its geometry uncontrollably.

List of plastics and their softening points:

  • PLA - 70°C

  • ABS - 105°C

  • PETG - 80°C

  • HIPS - 85°C

  • Nylon - 125°C

  • TPU - 95°C

  • PC - 145°C

  • PEEK - 255°C

The data is relatively inaccurate because plastics don't have a specific temperature when they fully transition from one state to another.

Universal table

For those who often use various plastics, we have prepared a table containing all the necessary information for adjusting the temperature of a 3D printer on the fly.

Plastic

Nozzle temperature, °C

Table temperature, °C

Blowing speed, %

Peculiarities

PLA

190 - 210

60 - 70

100

Safety

Strength

ABS

230 - 250

90 - 100

50 - 75

Flexibility

PETG

230 - 260

60 - 90

25 - 50

Chemically neutral

Friction resistance

HIPS

230 - 240

90 - 100

0

Soluble Supports

SBS

220 - 230

60 - 80

50 - 100

Transparency, great flexibility

Nylon

240 - 260

70 - 90

0 - 25

Chemically neutral

Heat resistance

TPU

210 - 240

50 - 70

50 - 100

Huge flexibility

Frost resistance

PVA

220 - 230

65 - 75

0 - 50

Water solubility

PC

290 - 310

90 - 120

0 - 25

Strength

Heat resistance

PEEK

350 - 410

120 - 150

0 - 25

Strength
Heat/frost resistance

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Manufacturer Raise3D

Optimal temperatures for 3D printing PLA, PETG, Nylon and TPU plastics

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