The 3d printer experience chicago

The 3D Printer Experience | Shopping in River North, Chicago

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Time Out says

You’ve been reading about 3D printers on various tech blogs, and now it’s time to investigate the technology in person. This print shop in River North features more than 20 3D printers that allow to you design 3D objects such as an iPhone case and pendants for jewelry. You can even make an appointment to scan and create a bust of your head ($25–$115, depending on the size of the bust).

Tuesday August 23 2016

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3D Printing at the Museum of Science and Industry, Chicago

Mara visits the Museum of Science and Industry in Chicago to learn about their first Spring Make Festival featuring 3D printing!

Posted on May 8, 2018

Mara Hitner

The Museum Of Science + Industry has been an institution of curiosity and learning in the heart of Chicago since 1933. They recently hosted their first Spring Make Festival - dubbed “A Spring Break For Your Creativity” - from March 9th to April 8th. Activities ranged from a scrappy quick-build robot competition called Hebocon to a full-blown Mini Maker Faire.

I was lucky enough to be able to visit the festival in its final weeks. My favorite hands-on activity, of course, involved a wall of 30 Flashforge Finder 3D printers and a whole lot of fun. The Make Shop exhibit was the most well-run maker experience I’ve ever seen - basically transforming a black-box space in the museum into a fabrication workshop set up to accommodate over 600 visitors per day.

Welcome to the Museum of Science & Industry Chicago!

Here’s how it worked: visitors were assigned into groups with a time to meet in the lobby for a 45-minute experience in making a personalized “wearable” - a name badge. First stop the was the 3D printing station. Computers were set up for guests to write their name on the screen with their finger using a program called 3D Paint. Next, their name was transformed into 3D printer code using Flashprint Software. Each file was saved on a USB thumb drive with a number corresponding to a printer.

Workstations in the Creation Lab

Then it was off to the massive rack of 3D printers to find our number. The USB drive got placed into the printer, and we got to watch our creations get 3D printed in only six minutes. Kids and adults alike were mesmerized by the process of depositing plastic layer by layer to make something they had created themselves just moments before! Once the print was done, we grabbed the handy spatulas hanging next to the printers to remove our creations and headed off to the next station.

The 3D Printer Farm

Second stop was vinyl cutters. Families from all over the world chose an image from a few different options like a rocket ship, beaker, heart, bird, and others. We dragged our shapes into the designated spot on the computer screen and watched as our images were sent to the vinyl cutter on the table, and produced right on the spot. We peeled off our images and stuck them on our badges.

The third step was to create a circuit using an LED light and a battery to place behind our 3D printed panel. Once all the pieces were assembled, the final touch was to add a string and wear our creations proudly throughout the rest of the day at the museum.

This well-run factory-as-exhibit was the brainchild of The Wanger Family Fab Lab team working with other museum departments, led by Fab Lab manager, Dan Meyer.

Dream It, Design It, Fab It!

“We are all Makers, but we might not be sure of that,” explains Meyer. “Make Shop allows you to unlock your inner maker in 45 minutes, and by the end, you realize you are a Maker. Leaving the Make Shop everyone is proud to show off their custom one of kind LED badge that they 3D printed, vinyl cut and built a multi-color light circuit for!”

Museum exhibits typically take up to two years to develop, but the Make Shop team brought this one to life in only five months.

The Make Shop Entrance

“Making is really taking off, and we wanted to show it was possible to do making on a large scale,” says Meyer. “We also wanted to show that digital fabrication is the future and that it is fun and easy to do.”

The inner workings of the exhibit are stunning. Dan Meyer and Carla Thacker manage and direct a team of over 30 staff who do everything from educating the guests about how a 3D printer works using a mini Etch-A-Sketch, to constantly maintaining the machines and materials. The revolving staff schedule is a masterpiece to behold, and even includes “blank” 15-minute sessions during the day to catch up if groups are running behind, and for routine maintenance. All of these details make for a flawless visitor experience.

Ultimaker machines on display with 3D prints

The exhibit itself is an example of design thinking, iteration, and celebration of failure, as long as you learn something. It was originally set up with the vinyl cutting activity first, but after a few practice runs, they moved 3D printing front and center for better workflow. They even have a little display of prints gone awry to remind themselves that sometimes new creations and technologies need a few tries to get just right.

“Failure loops are the road to success,” says Meyer. “Each failure teaches us something new and how to improve on the next loop. Loops of failures are called iteration. Iteration is how we create improvements in our world - from a better drinking cup to putting humans on Mars.”

Mara's Finished Name Badge!

Though the Make Shop exhibit has now ended, be sure to check out the Fab Lab at the museum to create and 3D print your own creature to take home. I can’t wait to see where making pops up next!

USA builds largest metal 3D printer

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Ingersoll, MELD Manufacturing and Siemens will build the largest metal 3D printer. The system will rely on adapted friction welding technology and will be able to grow parts up to ten meters long.

The work is carried out in the interests of the US military: such 3D printers are planned to be used primarily in the production of mine protection for army vehicles. During the Vietnam War, 73 percent of equipment losses were due to explosions on anti-personnel and anti-tank mines. Modern armored vehicles and armored personnel carriers are designed with enhanced protection, and an important role is played by thick, armored bottoms, often V-shaped and with a minimum of welds. nine0003

An American Cougar armored vehicle that hit a mine in Iraq in 2006 and drove another three kilometers to the safe zone. The personnel escaped with minor injuries. Photo: Marine Sergeant Christopher Clare

Previous work on the Jointless Hull project of the Army ManTech research program has looked at forging, forming and welding at high current density to reduce weld porosity. The results were rated as satisfactory in terms of strength, but at the same time, there was a lack of geometric freedom and manufacturing flexibility. nine0003

As a result, they decided to abandon forging, forming and welding in favor of another technology - production by the method of additive friction deposition with mixing (Additive Friction Stir Deposition, AFSD), that is, Friction Stir Welding, adapted for 3D printing, FSW).

Development work consists of two stages. Not the first one is planned to assemble a demonstrator with a construction area measuring 1x1x1 meter to test the technology and software. The design must then be scaled up to a working volume of 10x6.5x4 meters - the largest among "metal" 3D printers. Length is a conditional characteristic, since the portal structure will move along the rails. Siemens is responsible for the control systems and software. nine0003

The large-format version is already being assembled by Ingersoll, which has considerable experience in working on large additive systems. In 2019, this venture helped the University of Maine set three Guinness records at once: to make the largest 3D printed boat (seven meters in length), aka the largest one-piece 3D printed object, on the largest 3D printer for working with polymers and polymer composites. The same system is used in the production of large molding tooling, for example for the manufacture of helicopter blades. nine0003

The new 3D printer, as already mentioned, will deposit metals using friction stir deposition. This technology is being developed by MELD Manufacturing using the Edison Welding Institute (EWI). The build-up is carried out by plastic deformation at temperatures below the melting threshold, thereby achieving high isotropy and density without shrinkage and the risk of hot cracks, without the need for a vacuum chamber or protective gas environment. The technology also allows you to create gradient structures from different metals or alloys. Consumables are usually rounded bars with the possibility of using powders of different fractions and even metal shavings. nine0003

MELD Manufacturing already offers several models of additive systems. The latest commercial offer is the L3 3D printer released in 2020 with a working area of 1143x584x584 mm, although the K2 system with a useful volume of 2100x1100x1000 mm is the leader in terms of dimensions. The equipment allows you to work with various steel grades, as well as aluminum, copper, titanium, magnesium and nickel alloys. As a rule, such 3D printers stack layers about one millimeter thick and 38 mm wide, keeping the temperature of the material at 60-90% of melting point. Since the resolution of 3D printing is low, the resulting blanks require intensive machining, but with much less labor and waste than milling from blanks, and with high scalability, which is planned to be demonstrated in practice by the joint efforts of Ingersoll, MELD Manufacturing and Siemens. The commissioning of the large-format system is scheduled for the fourth quarter of this year.

Siemens MELD Ingersoll rotary welding

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Assembling a home 3D printer with your own hands: recommendations from personal experience

3D printing and assembly of 3D printers is my hobby and passion. Here I will not share detailed diagrams and drawings, there are more than enough of them on specialized resources. The main goal of this material is to tell you where to start, where to dig and how to avoid mistakes in the process of assembling a home 3D printer. Perhaps one of the readers will be inspired by applied engineering achievements. nine0003

Why do you need a 3D printer? Use cases for

I first came across the idea of 3D printing back in the 90s when I was watching the Star Trek series. I remember how impressed I was by the moment when the heroes of the cult series printed the things they needed during their journey right on board their starship. They printed anything: from shoes to tools. I thought it would be great someday to have such a thing too. Then it all seemed something incredible. Outside the window are the gloomy 90s, and the Nokia with a monochrome screen was the pinnacle of progress, accessible only to a select few. nine0003

Years passed, everything changed. Around 2010, the first working models of 3D printers began to appear on sale. Yesterday's fantasy has become a reality. However, the cost of such solutions, to put it mildly, discouraged. But the IT industry would not be itself without an inquisitive community, where there is an active exchange of knowledge and experience and who just let them dig into the brains and giblets of new hardware and software. So, drawings and diagrams of printers began to surface more and more often on the Web. Today, the most informative and voluminous resource on the topic of assembling 3D printers is RepRap - this is a huge knowledge base that contains detailed guides for creating a wide variety of models of these machines. nine0003

I assembled the first printer about five years ago. My personal motivation to build my own device is quite prosaic and based on several factors. Firstly, there was an opportunity to try to realize the old dream of having your own device, inspired by a fantasy series. The second factor is that sometimes it was necessary to repair some household items (for example, a baby stroller, car elements, household appliances and other small things), but the necessary parts could not be found. Well, the third aspect of the application is "near-working". On the printer, I make cases for various IoT devices that I assemble at home. nine0003

Agree, it is better to place your device based on Raspberry Pi or Arduino in an aesthetically pleasing "body", which is not a shame to put in an apartment or take to the office, than to organize components, for example, in a plastic bowl for food. And yes, you can print parts to build other printers :)

There are a lot of scenarios for using 3D printers. I think everyone can find something of their own.

A complex part in terms of drawing that I printed on my printer. Yes, it's just a figurine, but it has many small elements

Ready solution vs custom assembly

When a technology has been tested, its value in the market decreases markedly. The same thing happened in the world of 3D printers. If earlier a ready-made solution cost simply sky-high money, then today acquiring such a machine is more humane for the wallet, but nevertheless not the most affordable for an enthusiast. There are a number of solutions already assembled and ready for home use on the market, their price range ranges from $500-700 (not the best options) to infinity (adequate solutions start from a price tag of about $1000). Yes, there are options for $150, but we, for understandable, I hope, reasons, will not dwell on them. nine0003

In short, there are three cases to consider a finished assembly:

when you plan to print not much and rarely;
when print accuracy is critical;
you need to print molds for mass production of parts.

There are several obvious advantages to self-assembly. The first and most important is cost. Buying all the necessary components will cost you a maximum of a couple of hundred dollars. In return, you will receive a complete 3D printing solution with the quality of manufactured products acceptable for domestic needs. The second advantage is that by assembling the printer yourself, you will understand the principles of its design and operation. Believe me, this knowledge will be useful to you during the operation of even an expensive ready-made solution - any 3D printer needs to be serviced regularly, and it can be difficult to do this without understanding the basics. nine0003

The main disadvantage of assembly is the need for a large amount of time. I spent about 150 hours on my first build.

What you need to assemble the printer yourself

The most important thing here is the presence of desire. As for any special skills, then, by and large, in order to assemble your first printer, the ability to solder or write code is not critical. Of course, understanding the basics of radio electronics and basic skills in the field of mechanics (that is, "straight hands") will greatly simplify the task and reduce the amount of time that needs to be spent on assembly. nine0003

Also, to start we need a mandatory set of parts:

Extruder is the element that is directly responsible for printing, the print head. There are many options on the market, but for a budget build, I recommend the MK8. Of the minuses: it will not be possible to print with plastics that require high temperatures, there is noticeable overheating during intensive work, which can damage the element. If the budget allows, then you can look at MK10 - all the minuses are taken into account there. nine0088
Processor board. Well known to many Arduino Mega. I didn't notice any downsides to this solution, but you can spend a couple of dollars more and get something more powerful, with a reserve for the future.
Control board. I'm using RAMPS 1.4 which works great with the Arduino Mega. A more expensive but more reliable board is Shield, which already combines a processor board and a control board. In modern realities, I recommend paying attention to it. In addition to it, you need to purchase at least 5 microstep stepper motor controllers, for example - A4988. And it's better to have a couple of these in stock for replacement.
Heated table. This is the part where the printed element will be located. Heating is necessary due to the fact that most plastics will not adhere to a cold surface. For example, for printing with PLA plastic, the required surface temperature of the table is 60-80°C, for ABS - 110-130°C, and for polycarbonate it will be even higher.
There are also two options for choosing a table - cheaper and more expensive. Cheaper options are essentially printed circuit boards with preheated wiring. To operate on this type of table, you will need to put borosilicate glass, which will scratch and crack during operation. Therefore, the best solution is an aluminum table. nine0088
Stepper motors. Most models, including the i2 and i3, use NEMA 17 size motors, two for the Z axis and one each for the X and Y axes. Finished extruders usually come with their own stepper motor. It is better to take powerful motors with a current in the motor winding of 1A or more, so that there is enough power to lift the extruder and print without skipping steps at high speed.
Basic set of plastic fasteners.
Belt and gears to drive it. nine0107

Examples of elements appearance: 1) MK8 extruder; 2) Arduino processor board; 3) RAMPS control board; 4) motor controllers; 5) aluminum heated table; 6) NEMA 17 stepper motor; 7) a set of plastic fasteners; 8) drive gears; 9) drive belt

This is a list of items to be purchased. Hardcore users can assemble some of them themselves, but for beginners, I strongly recommend purchasing ready-made solutions. nine0003
Yes, you will also need various small things (studs, bearings, nuts, bolts, washers ...) to assemble the case. In practice, it turned out that using a standard m8 stud leads to low printing accuracy on the Z axis. I would recommend immediately replacing it with a trapezoid of the same size.

M8 trapezoid stud for Z axis, which will save you a lot of time and nerves. Available for order on all major online platforms
nine0002 You also need to purchase customized plastic parts for the X axis, such as these from the MendelMax retrofit kit.

Most parts available at your local hardware store. On RepRap you can find a complete list of necessary little things with all sizes and patterns. The kit you need will depend on the choice of platform (we'll talk about platforms later).

What's the price

Before delving into some aspects of the assembly, let's figure out how much such entertainment will cost for your wallet. Below is a list of parts required for purchase with an average price. nine0003
Platform selection

The community has already developed a number of different platforms for assembling printers - the most optimal case designs and the location of the main elements, so you do not have to reinvent the wheel.

i2 and i3 are key platforms for self-assembly printer enclosures. There are also many modifications of them with various improvements, but for beginners, these two classic platforms should be considered, since they do not require special skills and fine-tuning. nine0003
Actually, illustration of platforms: 1) i2 platform; 2) i3 platform

On the plus side of i2: it has a more reliable and stable design, although it is a little more difficult to assemble; more opportunities for further customization.

The i3 variant requires more special plastic parts to be purchased separately and has a slow print speed. However, it is easier to assemble and maintain, and has a more aesthetically pleasing appearance. You will have to pay for simplicity with the quality of printed parts - the body has less stability than i2, which can affect print accuracy. nine0003
Personally, I started my experiments in assembling printers from the i2 platform. She will be discussed further.

Assembly steps, challenges and improvements

In this block, I will only touch on the key assembly steps using the i2 platform as an example. Full step by step instructions can be found here.

The general scheme of all the main components looks something like this. There is nothing particularly complicated here:

I also recommend adding a display to your design. Yes, you can easily do without this element when performing operations on a PC, but it will be much more convenient to work with the printer this way. nine0003
Understanding how all components will be connected, let's move on to the mechanical part, where we have two main elements - a frame and a coordinate machine.

Assembling the frame

Detailed frame assembly instructions are available on RepRap. Of the important nuances - you will need a set of plastic parts (I already talked about this above, but I'd better repeat it), which you can either purchase separately or ask your comrades who already have a 3D printer to print.

The frame of the i2 is quite stable thanks to its trapezoid shape.

This is how the frame looks like with parts already partially installed. For greater rigidity, I reinforced the structure with plywood sheets

Coordinate machine

An extruder is attached to this part. The stepper motors shown in the diagram above are responsible for its movement. After installation, calibration is required along all major axes.

Important - you will need to purchase (or make your own) a carriage for moving the extruder and a mount for the drive belt. Drive belt I recommend GT2. nine0003
Carriage printed by the printer from the previous picture after it has been assembled. The part already has LM8UU bearings for guides and belt mount (top)

Calibration and adjustment

So, we completed the assembly process (as I said, it took me 150 hours) - the frame was assembled, the machine was installed. Now another important step is the calibration of this very machine and extruder. Here, too, there are small subtleties.

Setting up the machine

I recommend calibrating the machine with an electronic caliper. Do not be stingy with its purchase - you will save a lot of time and nerves in the process.

The screenshot below shows the correct constants for the Marlin firmware, which must be selected in order to set the correct number of steps per unit of measure. We calculate the coefficient, multiply it, substitute it into the firmware, and then upload it to the board.

Marlin 9 firmware constants0078

For high-quality calibration, I recommend relying on larger numbers in measurements - take not 1-1. 5 cm, but about 10. So the error will be more noticeable, and it will become easier to correct it.

Calibrating the extruder

When the frame is assembled, the machine is calibrated, we start setting up the extruder. Here, too, everything is not so simple. The main task of this operation is to correctly adjust the supply of plastic.

If underfeeding, the printed test item will have noticeable gaps, like test die 1. Conversely, the result will look bloated if plastic is overfed (dice 2)

Getting Started Printing

It remains for us to run some CAD or download ready-made .stl, which describe the structure of the printed material. Next, this structure needs to be converted into a set of commands understandable to our printer. For this I use the Slicer program. It also needs to be set up correctly - specify the temperature, the size of the extruder nozzle. After that, the data can be sent to the printer.

Slicer interface

As a raw material for printing, I recommend starting with regular ABS plastic - it is quite strong, products made from it are durable, and it does not require high temperatures to work with. For comfortable printing with ABS plastic, the table must be heated to a temperature of 110-130 ° C, and the extruder nozzle - within 230-260 ° C.

Some important details. Before printing, calibrate the machine along the Z axis. The extruder nozzle should be about half a millimeter from the table and ride along it without distortion. For this calibration, a regular sheet of A4 paper inserted between the nozzle and the surface of the heated table is best suited. If the sheet can be moved with little effort, the calibration is correct. nine0003
Another thing to keep in mind is the surface treatment of the heated table. Usually, before printing, the surface of the table is covered with something that hot plastic sticks to well. For ABS plastic, this can be, for example, Kapton tape. The disadvantage of adhesive tape is the need to re-glue it after several printing cycles. In addition, you will have to literally tear off the adhering part from it. All this, believe me, takes a lot of time. Therefore, if it is possible to avoid this fuss, it is better to avoid it. nine0003
An alternative option that I use instead of scotch tape is to apply several layers of ordinary light beer, followed by heating the table to 80-100 ° C until the surface is completely dry and re-applying 7-12 layers. It is necessary to apply the liquid with a cloth moistened with a drink. Among the advantages of this solution: ABS plastic separates from the table on its own when it cools down to about 50 ° C and is removed without effort, the table does not have to be peeled off, and one bottle of beer will last you for several months (if you use the drink only for technical purposes :)). nine0003
After we have collected and configured everything, we can start printing. If you have an LCD screen, then the file can be transferred for printing using a regular SD card.

The first results may have bumps and other artifacts - do not worry, this is a normal process of "grinding" the printer elements, which will end after a few print cycles.

Tips to make life easier (and sometimes save money)

In addition to the small recommendations given in the text above, in this section I will also give a short list of tips that will greatly simplify the operation of a 3D printer and the life of its owner. nine0003

Do not experiment with nozzles. If you plan to immediately print from materials that require high temperatures, then it is better to immediately take the MK10 extruder. On MK8, you can "hang" special nozzles that support high-temperature conditions. But such modifications often cause difficulties and require special experience. It is better to avoid this fuss on the shore by simply installing the right extruder for you.

Add starter relay for heated table. nine0107 Improving the power supply system of this important part for printing with a starter relay will help solve the known problem of RAMP 1.4 - overheating of the transistors that control the power of the table, which can lead to failure of the board. I made this upgrade after having to throw away a few RAMPS 1.4s.

Select the correct media diameter for printing. I recommend using 1.75mm plastic for MK8 and MK10. If we take plastic, for example, 3 mm, then the extruder simply does not have enough strength to push it at an acceptable speed - everything will be printed much longer, and the quality will drop. ABS plastic is ideal for MK8, MK10 will be able to produce products from polycarbonate. nine0088
Use only new and precise X and Y guides. Print quality will be affected. It is difficult to count on good quality with bent or deformed guides along the axes.

Take care of cooling. During my experiments with various extruders, the MK10 showed the best results - it prints quite accurately and quickly. The MK10 can also print plastics that require a higher print temperature than ABS, such as polycarbonate. Although it is not as prone to overheating as its younger brother MK8, I still recommend taking care of its cooling by adding a cooler to your design. It must be permanently enabled, this option can be configured in Slicer. You can also add coolers to keep the stepper motors at an acceptable temperature, however, make sure that their air flows do not fall on the printed part, as this can lead to its deformation due to too rapid cooling. nine0088
Consider heat retention. Yes, on the one hand, we are struggling with overheating of the elements. On the other hand, a uniform temperature around the printer will contribute to high-quality printing (the plastic will be more pliable). To achieve a uniform temperature, you can put our printer, for example, in a cardboard box. The main thing is to connect and configure the coolers before that, as described above.

Consider insulating your desk. Heated table heats up to high temperatures. And if part of this heat leaves properly, heating the printed part, then the second part (from below) just goes down. To concentrate the heat from the table onto the part, you can perform an operation to insulate it. To do this, I simply attach a cork mouse pad to its bottom using stationery clips. nine0088

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I am sure that during the assembly process you will encounter a number of difficulties specific to your project. Neither this text nor even the most detailed guides will insure against this.

As I wrote in the introductory part, the above does not claim the status of a detailed assembly manual. It is almost impossible to describe all the stages and their subtleties within the framework of one such text. First of all, this is an overview material that will help you prepare for the assembly process (both mentally and financially), understand whether you personally need to bother with self-assembly - or give up on everything and buy a ready-made solution. nine0003
For me, assembling printers has become an exciting hobby that helps me solve some issues in home and work affairs, take my mind off programming and do something interesting with my own hands. For my children - entertainment and the opportunity to get unusual and unique toys.
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The 3d printer experience chicago

The 3D Printer Experience | Shopping in River North, Chicago

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3D Printing at the Museum of Science and Industry, Chicago

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USA builds largest metal 3D printer

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Assembling a home 3D printer with your own hands: recommendations from personal experience

Why do you need a 3D printer? Use cases for

Ready solution vs custom assembly

What you need to assemble the printer yourself

What's the price

Platform selection

Assembly steps, challenges and improvements

Assembling the frame

Coordinate machine

Calibration and adjustment

Setting up the machine

Calibrating the extruder

Getting Started Printing

Tips to make life easier (and sometimes save money)

Pins

Learn more