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The Best Cheap 3D Printers for 2022

While we'd hesitate to call 3D printing a mature technology, you might say it has reached its teenage years. Through their first decade-and-change, 3D printers have come down in price, grown easier to set up and operate, and become more reliable. And you may pay less than you expect: Many once-high-end features have migrated down to inexpensive models.

PC Labs has been reviewing 3D printers since 2013. Today, the state of 3D printing is strong, but that wasn’t always the case. For the first several years, it was often an adventure getting one of these printers up and running, let alone successfully through our testing regimen. Issues with filament-based—aka fused filament fabrication (FFF) or fused deposition modeling (FDM)—printers were abundant.

Filament feeders had to be coaxed into delivering filament from the spool to the extruder. Print beds had to be manually aligned. The extruder or hot end had to be positioned just right to minimize the gap between the nozzle and the build plate (the flat surface on which the object is printed). Objects frequently stuck to the build plate, and required careful, sometimes unsuccessful, efforts to pry them off. These and other issues required painstaking effort to resolve, often combined with calls to tech support.

Not so much anymore. While they can still be rebellious at times, 3D printers have grown up a lot, and achieving the 3D printer basics has gotten a lot less likely to end in a shouting match over small things. And they've gotten a lot more affordable, too, for curious DIY-ers and hobbyists to try.

If you're in the market for a beginner or low-cost 3D printer, it's important to know how lower-end models differ. Read on for mini-reviews of the top budget 3D printers we've tested. After that, we go into more detail on understanding the 3D printer specs and tech relevant to beginning buyers. Ready to take the plunge? Read on.

More About Our Picks

Original Prusa Mini

4.5 Outstanding

Best Overall Budget 3D Printer

Bottom Line:

It requires assembly and calibration care (plus shipping from the Czech Republic), but the Original Prusa Mini is a compact, open-frame 3D printer that consistently produces superb-quality output for a great price.

Pros

  • Top-notch object quality
  • Supports a variety of filament types
  • Useful, professionally printed user guide
  • Great support resources
  • Versatile, user-friendly software

Cons

  • First-layer calibration can be tricky
  • Only includes starter packets of filament
  • Requires monitoring if young children or pets are around

Read Our Original Prusa Mini Review

XYZprinting da Vinci Mini

4.0 Excellent

Best Budget 3D Printer for Schools, Community Centers

Bottom Line:

The XYZprinting da Vinci Mini is a consumer-oriented 3D printer that provides a winning combination of low price, ease of setup and use, solid print quality, and smooth, misprint-free operation.

Pros

  • Very low price.
  • Reasonably priced filament.
  • Good print quality.
  • No misprints in testing.
  • Easy setup and operation.
  • Quiet.
  • Prints over a USB or Wi-Fi connection.

Cons

  • Occasional problems in trying to launch prints.
  • Removing printed objects from the print bed is sometimes tricky.

Read Our XYZprinting da Vinci Mini Review

Toybox 3D Printer

4.0 Excellent

Best Budget 3D Printer for Children

Bottom Line:

The Toybox 3D Printer works well as a model designed for children, offering reliable printing from a browser or mobile device and a few thousand toys to print, plus creative options to output drawings or photos. Just bear in mind the tiny build area.

Pros

  • Reliable, misprint-free printing
  • Easy setup
  • One-touch operation
  • Well-composed help resources
  • Access to more than 2,000 printable toys and projects
  • Lets you create your own printable designs

Cons

  • Tiny build area
  • Not ideal for importing 3D files created elsewhere

Read Our Toybox 3D Printer Review

Monoprice Mini Delta V2 3D Printer

4. 0 Excellent

Best Budget 3D Printer for Beginners, Non-Techies

Bottom Line:

3D printing gurus will be intrigued by the Monoprice Mini Delta V2's use of the delta rather than Cartesian coordinate system, but beginners will just enjoy its low price, ease of use, and speedy printing.

Pros

  • Sub-$200 price
  • Quick, nearly misprint-free printing
  • Easy setup and operation
  • Sturdy steel-and-aluminum frame
  • Supports multiple filament types

Cons

  • Tiny build area
  • So-so print quality
  • Mere one-year warranty

Read Our Monoprice Mini Delta V2 3D Printer Review

Anycubic i3 Mega S

3.5 Good

Best Budget 3D Printer With an Open Design, Big Build Area

Bottom Line:

The Anycubic i3 Mega S, an inexpensive open-frame 3D printer, produced decent-quality prints in our testing. To get the most out of it, though, may require precise calibration.

Pros

  • Modestly priced
  • Large build area for an inexpensive printer
  • Supports a variety of filament types
  • Generally solid print quality
  • Uses well-known Cura software

Cons

  • Finicky print-platform alignment
  • Supported coils of filament are small
  • Poorly placed spool holder

Read Our Anycubic i3 Mega S Review

Anycubic Vyper

3.5 Good

Best Budget 3D Printer for the Biggest Build Area Possible

Bottom Line:

Anycubic's modestly priced Vyper whips up large 3D prints on its open-frame design, and provides automatic print-bed leveling. Just know that some minor assembly is required—and printed objects may require a bit of cleanup.

Pros

  • Relatively large build area
  • Automatic bed leveling
  • Simple assembly

Cons

  • Short (one-year) warranty
  • Includes only a small starter filament coil
  • Using Cura software with the Vyper requires tweaking a couple of settings
  • Test prints showed some "hairy" filament residue

Read Our Anycubic Vyper Review

Creality Ender-3 V2

3. 5 Good

Best Budget 3D Printer for Tinkerers and DIY Types

Bottom Line:

Hands-on tweaking defines Creality's budget-price Ender-3 V2, an open-frame 3D printer that you build from a kit. It produces generally above-par prints, but its print bed can be tricky to keep leveled.

Pros

  • Inexpensive
  • Slightly above-average print quality
  • Good-size build area for its price
  • Supports several filament types

Cons

  • Manual print-bed leveling can be tricky
  • Setup instructions could be deeper, more legible
  • Questionable quality control on some parts

Read Our Creality Ender-3 V2 Review

Flashforge Finder 3D Printer

3.5 Good

Best 3D Printer for the Very Tightest Budgets

Bottom Line:

The Flashforge Finder 3D Printer is moderately priced and offers good print quality, but it proved tricky to get up and running in our tests.

Pros

  • Quiet.
  • Good print quality.
  • Connects via USB 2.0 cable, USB thumb drive, or Wi-Fi.
  • Reasonably priced.

Cons

  • Some objects pulled off the platform during testing.
  • Poor documentation.
  • Modest build volume.
  • Limited to printing with polylactic acid filament (PLA).

Read Our Flashforge Finder 3D Printer Review

Polaroid PlaySmart 3D Printer

3.5 Good

Best Budget 3D Printer for Dabbling in Small Objects

Bottom Line:

The Polaroid PlaySmart 3D Printer is a compact, stylish 3D printer with above-par overall print quality, but, alas, a tiny build area for the money.

Pros

  • Small, lightweight for a desktop 3D printer.
  • Easy to set up and use.
  • Supports PLA, PETG, and wood composite filaments.
  • Multiple-color support.
  • Wi-Fi camera monitors print jobs.
  • Prints from USB drives, SD cards, or mobile devices.

Cons

  • High price for its capabilities.
  • Small build area.
  • Too-brief warranty.

Read Our Polaroid PlaySmart 3D Printer Review

XYZprinting da Vinci Jr. 1.0 A Pro

3.5 Good

Best Budget 3D Printer With Closed Design, Roomy Build Area

Bottom Line:

The XYZprinting da Vinci Jr. 1.0 A Pro is a moderately priced closed-frame 3D printer with a large build volume and overall good performance, but a potentially balky filament-feeding system.

Pros

  • Spacious build area
  • Works with third-party filaments
  • Self-leveling print bed

Cons

  • Build plate is not heated
  • Limited to PLA- and PETG-based filaments
  • Guide tube is prone to detaching

Read Our XYZprinting da Vinci Jr. 1.0 A Pro Review

Monoprice Voxel 3D Printer

3. 0 Average

Best Budget 3D Printer for Cheap Filament

Bottom Line:

The Monoprice Voxel is an under-$400 3D printer that's easy to set up and use. It exhibits generally good print quality, but it was unable to print two of our test objects.

Pros

  • Easy to set up and use.
  • Budget price for printer and filament spools.
  • Supports PLA, ABS, and several composite filament types.
  • Versatile software.
  • Prints over Ethernet or Wi-Fi, or from a USB thumb drive.

Cons

  • Frequent misprints on certain test objects.
  • Slightly balky touch screen.

Read Our Monoprice Voxel 3D Printer Review

How to Buy a Cheap 3D Printer

The biggest changes to 3D printers over the last few years have come to the cheaper models. Nowadays, many of those classic, ornery 3D-printing issues have been resolved (most of the time, anyway), even for consumer and bargain-priced 3D printers. Automatic print-bed leveling is the norm, and you can usually remove 3D-printed objects from heated and/or flexible build plates with a minimum of coaxing. And most 3D printer manufacturers have either developed and refined their own software, or have adapted an open-source printing platform such as Cura(Opens in a new window).

(Credit: Zlata Ivleva)

What separates more expensive 3D printers from cheap ones ("cheap" defined as $500 or less, for the purposes of this article) is often a select group of features. These include the build volume, the type of frame, the varieties of supported filament, the software, and the connectivity mix. Let's run through those in turn.

What's the Right Build Volume for a 3D Printer?

A 3D printer’s build volume is the maximum dimensions (HWD) of a part that it can print. (We say “a part” because a 3D-printed object can consist of multiple parts that are printed, then glued or otherwise pieced together. ) While the smallest build volume of any 3D printer we have tested is 3.9 by 3.9 by 4.9 inches, we consider any build volume smaller than 6 by 6 by 6 inches to be small, any between that and 10 by 10 by 10 inches as medium, and any printer with at least one build dimension of more than 10 inches as having a large build volume.

(Credit: Molly Flores)

As a general rule, inexpensive 3D printers have small build volumes, while more expensive ones have larger build volumes. This depends in part on the type of printer. Closed-frame 3D printers—and most semi-open models, which have a rigid top, base, and sides but are open in front and, often, back—tend to have small build volumes, while open-frame printers, lacking as rigid a physical structure, often have relatively large build volumes for the price. You'll want to weigh the build volume against the kinds of objects you will print.

Should I Get an Open-Frame or Closed-Frame 3D Printer?

Which brings us to the frame "form factor" question: open-frame versus closed-frame. Closed-frame 3D printers are boxlike devices, with a rigid base, walls (with a see-through door in front), and top. Among their advantages? They muffle the operating noise, as well as reduce the odor from melted filament (which is potentially an issue with ABS plastic), and they provide some protection for people or pets who might inadvertently touch the hot extruder. A downside: They tend to have smaller build volumes than open-frame 3D printers, which have fewer (often, no) walls to constrict them.

(Credit: Zlata Ivleva)

Low-cost 3D printers include both open-frame and closed-frame models, as well as a few stereolithography printers. If a relatively large build volume is a priority, you’re likely to get more bang for the buck with an open-frame model. Open-frames do have some clear downsides by definition: They tend to be noisy, emit odors when certain plastics are melted, and provide little protection for someone who might touch the hot extruder.

(Credit: Molly Flores)

Also, recognize some potential negatives of open frames, depending on the model. Some require assembly, being essentially kits, and most require more setup care than a closed-frame printer, plus more maintenance to keep them running smoothly. Still, these very traits should not deter—and may even appeal to—hobbyists and DIY folks.

What Should I Look for in 3D Printer Software and Connectivity?

Gone are the days when tinkerers had to cobble together several different programs to get a 3D printer to run. Manufacturers either include their own 3D printing program or modify an existing platform such as the open-source Cura.

3D printing software performs three main functions: processing an object file (resizing, moving, rotating, and in some cases duplicating it), slicing it (into virtual layers, based on your chosen resolution), and printing it. These are almost universally combined into a seamless process. Some high-end printers have software that supports a wider range of settings you can tweak, but even the basic suites work at least reasonably well.

More likely to vary among the cheaper set is the array of connection options from model to model. Nearly all have a USB Type-A port to fit a thumb drive for printing from document files. Most also have a USB Type-B port for connecting directly to a computer, and some offer Wi-Fi, too (or as an alternative), while a handful let you connect via Ethernet to share the printer across a local network.

Some printers support storing 3D files on an SD or microSD card (which may also contain the printer’s system files). Most 3D printer manufacturers (even the discount ones) have a mobile app to launch and monitor print jobs, and a few provide access to cloud services from which you can print.

While high-end 3D printers tend to have an abundance of connection choices, discount models vary widely in their choices. Some are generous and some are basic, so it pays to assess what a given model offers.

What Should I Look for in Filament Support?

Filament support tends to be a key area that separates the cheaper models from the higher-end ones. (See our guide to understanding 3D printing filaments for more particulars.) Inexpensive 3D printers tend to support a limited number of plastic filament types, some of them only PLA and/or ABS.

Recommended by Our Editors

3D Printing: What You Need to Know

3D Printer Filaments Explained

(Credit: Molly Flores)

PLA (polylactic acid) is a biodegradable, plant-based polymer, while ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) is the same tough plastic that Legos are made from. Objects printed from ABS are durable and nontoxic, though the material can be tricky to work with. ABS can emit an acrid, unpleasant odor during printing, and the bottom corners of objects being printed with it have a tendency to curl upward a bit, especially if you are using a non-heated print bed. This can lead to unsightly prints, and/or prints prematurely pulling off the build plate, ruining them.

Many entry-level and low-price 3D printers stick exclusively to PLA. If you want to experiment with a larger variety of filaments—which include water-soluble filament, wood- and metal-laced composites, and both tough and flexible varieties—you may have to pay more, although a few discount models support a wide range of materials.

Should I Consider a 3D Printing Pen Instead?

Although they aren’t printers per se, inexpensive 3D pens are close kin to 3D printers—using the same filament types and a similar extrusion system—and we include them in the 3D printing category. Rather than tracing out a programmed pattern, you use the 3D pen much like a normal pen, except that you draw with molten plastic. You can trace a pattern or draw freehand, and even draw in three dimensions as the plastic quickly solidifies and hardens once extruded.

(Credit: 3Doodler)

Most 3D pens cost less than $100, and some cost $50 or less. At a glance, 3D pens may appear to be toys, but some artists and craftspeople have taken to them, as it is possible to make quite complicated and beautiful objects with them. If your aim in 3D printing is something closer to freehand design and free expression than computer-centric, structured, and repeatable output, you might give one a try.

So, What Is the Best Cheap 3D Printer to Buy?

Buying a budget 3D printer needn’t mean a world of sacrifice. Plenty of capable and reliable models sell at less than $500, and while they may not be as feature-rich as their more expensive cousins, there's no sense in paying for things you don’t need.

Many casual 3D-printing experimenters will be fine with printing over a USB cable or from a thumb drive, and sticking to PLA may be the best choice for a starter 3D printer. If you focus just on the features you want, you may be pleasantly surprised at what you find. Below, check out a spec breakdown of the best under-$500 3D printers we have reviewed, paralleling our picks above. Also, for a look at the broader market, see our guide to our favorite 3D printers overall.

Monoprice Delta Mini V2 3D printer review: Great for beginners

Tom's Guide Verdict

The Monoprice Delta Mini V2 is an excellent 3D printer for the price, and a good way to get started in 3D printing if you don’t want to pay up for the Monoprice Voxel or Polaroid PlaySmart.

TODAY'S BEST DEALS

Pros
  • +

    Low cost, fully-featured 3D printer

  • +

    Prints PLA, ABS, PETG, and other materials

  • +

    Excellent print quality for the price

Cons
  • -

    The software has some rough edges

  • -

    Prints are limited to 4.3 inches in diameter

  • -

    Can’t work with flexible materials

Monoprice Delta Mini V2 3D printer: Specs

Price: $199.99
Type: Delta Fused Filament Deposition (FFD) 3D printer
Filament Size: 1.75mm
Filament Type: PLA, ABS, PETG, Other
Interfaces: USB, WiFi
Storage: Micro SD
Size: 9.75 x 8.5 x 14.5 inches
Weight: 2.2 pounds

Even though it sports an unusual look for a 3D printer, there’s something familiar about the Monoprice Delta Mini V2. That’s because this is actually the second version of this device — we reviewed the original Monoprice Mini Delta a while back when it was a low-cost if flawed way to get started in 3D printing.

Does the new version address those flaws, which included unreliable USB connections and printing modes along with other bugs? Our Monoprice Delta Mini V2 3D printer review finds a much improved device, though software remains a weak spot.

Monoprice Delta Mini V2 3D printer review: Price

  • Monoprice Mini Delta V2 3D Printer (Black) at Amazon for $179.99

You can get the Monoprice Delta Mini V2 3D printer for $179, a very attractive price for entry-level printers. Consider that our top rated choice for best 3d printer — the Monoprice Voxel — costs $449, that’s quite a bargain.

The Monoprice Delta Mini V2 is available directly from Monoprice .

The Monoprice Delta Mini V2 is a cute little printer, measuring just 14.5 inches high.  While most 3D printers use left-right and forward-back rails that the print head slides along, the Delta 2 uses three spider-like arms, with the print head attached in the middle. Move one of these legs up, and the print head moves in that direction. By coordinating all three legs, the Monoprice Delta Mini V2 can move the print head anywhere in the print area. 

(Image credit: Monoprice)

It’s a rather compelling motion to watch, but it does have one limitation: the print area is circular and is smaller than a more standard printer of the same size. For the Mini Delta 2, the print area has a diameter of just over 4.3 inches and a height of just over 4.7 inches. That’s a total of about 81 cubic inches, which is somewhat smaller than the 107 cubic inches provided by the Polaroid Playsmart.

(Image credit: Monoprice)

The Delta Mini V2 features several ways to connect to the outside world, including a micro SD card slot, a Micro USB port and a Wi-Fi interface. The latter option is of limited use, though — you can’t control the printer over a web interface or connect to it directly with a slicing app to send files. Instead, Wi-fi only works through a rather poor mobile app.

Monoprice Delta Mini V2 3D printer review: Controls

You’ve got several options for controlling the Delta Mini V2 — an on-device display, the PoloPrint Pro app, or through a slicer app such as Cura.

The small touch screen on the printer itself can be used with a fingertip or with an included plastic stylus. The latter is preferable, especially for precise jobs like entering a Wi-Fi password via the on-screen keyboard. Fingertips are fine for simpler jobs like pressing the start button, though. 

(Image credit: Monoprice)

The pre-release version of the PoloPrint Pro app that I tried is available for both iOS and Android. It’s a bit rough around the edges: I found that it often crashed or failed to connect to the printer. When it did work, I was able to start a print from the micro SD card or from the online library and monitor the print progress, although there is no camera in this low-cost printer that lets you see the print in progress. Another omission here is the ability to load your own models and print them from the app; Monoprice told us that this might be added at a later date.

The best way to set up a print is with a slicing app such as Cura. A customized version of this open-source program for Windows and Mac is included on the micro SD card that comes with the Monoprice Delta Mini V2, and that is what we used to print in our tests. This doesn’t support connecting to the printer over WiFi, but it does support USB or saving a print file to the micro SD card. So, if you are using Cura to prepare prints, you have to use USB or micro SD to print.

Monoprice Delta Mini V2 3D printer review: Print process

The Delta Mini V2 is a pretty simple printer to use. Once you’ve created your print file in Cura or another program and copied it onto the micro SD card, you hit the print button in the on-screen menu and select the file to start printing.

The first thing the Delta Mini does is automatically level the print bed, touching the print head to the bed in three places to press a switch underneath it. That lets the printer know exactly where the print bed is— an important step for laying down an even first layer. Once ready, the Delta Mini lays down the first print layer on the heated print bed, then moves up to do subsequent layers.

I found that prints worked well, with few errors and no major failures. If anything, prints stuck to the print bed a little *too* well, as I usually had to pry the final print off the bed with a paint scraper. 

The Delta Mini V2 can handle multiple filament types including PLA, ABS, and PETG. You’re not restricted to filament from any one source, as the Monprice 3D printer can use 1.75mm filament from any manufacturer. We tested the Delta Mini with both PLA and ABS material and found it produced excellent results with both. 

Your biggest limitation will be the maximum temperature of the print head and the print bed (250℃ and 100℃ respectively). The Delta Mini V2 also can’t handle flexible materials, as these require a different style of print head. 

Monoprice Delta Mini V2 3D printer review: Print speed

The Delta Mini V2 is a pretty fast printer in draft mode: it cranked out a 3.5-inch high Thinker figure in a little more than 3.5 hours in this mode, which uses a 0.2 mm layer height. The 3D printer is a blit slower if you run it in normal quality, as my print took 7 hours and 10 minutes. This mode halves the height of each individual layer to 0.1mm.

Monoprice Delta Mini V2 3D printer review: Print quality

We use several test models to test 3D printers, including a scan of Rodin’s Thinker statue, a set of gears and a geometric sculpture. I was impressed with the quality of the prints that the Delta Mini 2 produced, thanks to the excellent detail. 

Image 1 of 3

(Image credit: Tom's Guide)(Image credit: Tom's Guide)(Image credit: Tom's Guide)

Our Thinker test print came out looking very nice, with smooth, natural curves on his shoulders and good detail on the face. There was some noticeable layering, though in both the draft and normal modes.

Image 1 of 3

(Image credit: Tom's Guide)(Image credit: Tom's Guide)(Image credit: Tom's Guide)

Our gears test model also came out well: All we had to do to fit the gears together was to remove them from the raft that they were printed on. We didn’t need to do any other trimming, cutting, or tweaking to produce a set of gears that turned smoothly and evenly.

Image 1 of 2

(Image credit: Tom's Guide)(Image credit: Tom's Guide)

The geometric sculpture is a difficult print, which is why we use it in our 3D printer testing. It involves printing a lot of sharp edges at angles, which taxes the ability of the printer to precisely control the flow of the molten filament. The Delta Mini V2 handled it without issues, producing a print that had sharp, well-defined edges and points. Once we had trimmed off the support material that held the print in place during the printing process, we were left with a very well printed, spiky sculpture.

Monoprice Delta Mini V2 3D printer review: Verdict

The Monoprice Delta Mini V2 is a simple printer that does an excellent job. It prints quickly in high quality and can handle a wide range of different materials. The only limitation is the size of the print bed: with a diameter of 4.3 inches, it can’t print anything wider than that or more than 4.7 inches high. That is plenty big for most users, though, and at the price, you can’t beat the value the Delta Mini V2 offers.  

The mobile software issues still prove to be frustrating, but it’s hard to find a better printer at this low of a price. The da Vinci Nano from XYZprinting hovers around $200, but it can be hard to find these days. For that reason, beginners would be wise to give 3D printing a try on a low-cost option like the Monoprice Delta Mini V2.

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Richard Baguley has been working as a technology writer and journalist since 1993. As well as contributing to Tom's Guide, he writes for Cnet, T3, Wired and many other publications.

Top 3D printers for schools and universities

Contents

    • Why does a school need a 3D printer?
    • Features of choosing a 3D printer
    • Top 10 3D printers for schools and universities
      • 10th place - Wanhao Duplicator I3 mini
      • 9th place - Creality3D Ender 3 MAX
      • 8th place - FlashForge 7 bic Finder
      • Photon Mono
      • 6th place - Wanhao Duplicator 6 Plus
      • 5th place - Flashforge Dreamer
      • 4th place - Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k
      • 3 place - Picaso 3D Designer Classic
      • 2 place - Picaso 3D Designer X Pro
      • 1 place - Raise3d E2
      • Classes
        • 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 filament
      • Summing up

    Every year 3D printing finds new applications and becomes easier to handle. Already, there is a huge variety of printers designed for both serious projects and children. But due to the wide variety, it is very difficult to choose the right printer. Therefore, in this top, we have collected the best printers for educational institutions, depending on the tasks.

    Why does the school need a 3D printer?

    Although the school is a place for receiving primary and secondary education, in it a person decides which way of life to go on. At the moment, the division of the parallel classes depending on the area of ​​interest of schoolchildren is successfully applied. They include an in-depth study of certain subjects, but in addition to this, you can teach children the basics of an engineer's work: mechanics, drawing and working on machine tools. But as discussed above, 3D printing is penetrating many areas. Therefore, the ability to work with a 3D printer can be a great help when choosing a further development path. In addition, there are many competitions in which students compete in 3D modeling and 3D printing skills. For victories in some of these competitions, the school is given kits that allow them to equip a full-fledged 3D printing laboratory. For example, the annual “All-Russian Olympiad in 3D Technologies” allows not only to gain experience in developing a real project in a short time, but also to win a trip to children's camps. There is also a competition of engineering projects “3DBUM”, in which schoolchildren go through all stages of development: from sketches to the finished product. In addition, there are many different 3D printers and 3D scanners that can be won in 3DBOOM.

    But the result of participation in these competitions depends not only on the skills of the students, but also on the 3D printer. Therefore, it is extremely important to choose the most suitable printer for the tasks of the competition.

    Features of choosing a 3D printer

    Unfortunately, there are no 3D printers that combine all the positive qualities. But you can choose the most suitable option, which will either cover the necessary tasks, or combine the necessary qualities. When choosing a printer, you should pay attention to the speed and quality of printing. Ease of use is also important, because the success of training depends on it. And of course, security, the availability of protection mechanisms and their advancement. When choosing a printer, it is also worth considering what material it will print. The most popular choice would be an FDM 3D printer using filament (plastic wire). The only danger would be a heated nozzle. On the other hand, there is SLA technology: Resin curing in ultraviolet rays. In this case, the danger is the resin itself, its fumes and ultraviolet rays. Next, we will look at which printers are suitable for certain tasks, as well as their pros and cons.

    Top 10 3D printers for schools and universities

    10th place - Wanhao Duplicator I3 mini

    Proven to be a great printer for beginner printers, the Wanhao Duplicator I3 mini is perfect for schools and clubs. There are no dangerous elements in it, and even a junior high school student can set it up. Due to the simple design and low cost, this model can equip a whole circle, where each student will work with a separate printer. It is also worth noting the small size of the Duplicator I3 mini, which allows you to conveniently transport them to participate in competitions and olympiads. But for its small size and simplicity of design, you have to pay with low printing speed and relatively low quality, while, due to the lack of a heated table, the range of filaments available for printing is greatly reduced.

    9th place - Creality3D Ender 3 MAX

    The previous model of the Ender 3 printer line has already become a classic choice for a 3D printer for the home, and the Ender 3 MAX not only retains the main advantages of its predecessor, but also adds a lot of new things: an improved model cooling system, an all-metal extruder, updated firmware and more. Due to the preserved design, all the improvements created for the Ender 3 are also suitable for the Ender 3 MAX. However, this printer is shipped as an assembly kit, and the lack of an outer cover may cause problems when transporting the printer.


    8th place - FlashForge Finder

    Due to the plastic case, it may seem that this printer is not a serious device. But this will be a delusion, because it has high accuracy and printing speed, which will definitely help when participating in competitions with a limited time. Due to the closed design and lightweight body made of high-strength plastic, it can be easily transported without assembly and disassembly for the duration of the move. Unfortunately, the main disadvantage of this model follows from the above pluses: a small print area.


    7th place - Anycubic Photon Mono

    Unlike previous printers, Anycubic Photon Mono prints using SLA technology. This achieves excellent print accuracy while maintaining an average print speed. It is also worth noting the compactness, which allows you to put it even on the windowsill. But due to the resin used, Photon mono would not be the best choice for teaching young children: the resin emits dangerous fumes during curing, and after printing, the model must be cleaned of resin residue. Due to the limitations of the printable area and the difficulty in post-processing the model, this printer will be a great addition to any of the FDM printers in this top.


    6th place - Wanhao Duplicator 6 Plus

    This 3D printer can be called a workhorse: reliable, strong and large. By the name, you can easily understand that this printer is an improved version of the Duplicator 6. The main differences include the addition of functionality in the firmware, for example, resuming printing after a power outage and auto-calibrating the table. Despite the formidable appearance, this printer is quite easy to learn, configure and repair. Thanks to the steel sheet body, stability during printing is achieved. But the main disadvantage follows from this: a lot of weight. Combined with the large external dimensions, transporting this printer may cause some difficulties. Duplicator 6 Plus is suitable as a primary printer for schools and a spare for Universities.


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    Manufacturer Creality

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    Manufacturer Anycubic

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    Manufacturer Flash Forge

    5th place - Flashforge Dreamer

    Starting with this 3D printer, we are entering the territory of professional equipment. As a result, more opportunities open up both in printing models and in choosing the materials from which the model will be made. For example, this printer has 2 nozzles at once, and this opens up the possibility of printing two-color models and the use of soluble supports, which will undoubtedly improve the quality of printing overhanging elements. Also worth noting is the closed print area, which protects the model from drafts during printing. Thanks to its closed case form factor, FlashForge Dreamer can be moved relatively easily. A distinctive feature is the ability to print via Wi-Fi: if there are several printers with support for printing via Wi-Fi, it will be possible to manage all printers at once through one computer in real time.

    4th place - Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K

    Another representative of SLA 3D printers. Unlike the previously mentioned Anycubic Photon, this printer has even greater accuracy down to 35 microns. This is achieved with a 4K screen. At the same time, the printing speed can reach 80 mm / h. Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K is already used in many industries: engineering, design, art and even dentistry! Therefore, this printer will be an excellent choice for Higher Education Institutions if there is a need for high quality printing.


    3rd place - PICASO 3D Designer Classic

    PICASO has long been at the forefront of professional 3D printing, and many of their older printers are still in use in the workshop. Thanks to the official possibility of improving the printer, you can choose the necessary components that will expand the functionality in the necessary direction. For example, there is an improved extruder that allows the nozzle to be heated up to 410°C, a requirement for printing with engineering plastics such as PC and PEEK. Designer Classic is suitable both for schools, due to its ease of use, and for Universities, due to its wide range of features and high quality.


    2nd place - PICASO 3D Designer X Pro

    The most advanced 3D printer from PICASO 3D combines the positive qualities of all their previous developments, while adding many new features: dual-filament printing, high precision, auto-calibration, printing with high-temperature plastics and much more. Almost any idea can be realized with Designer X Pro: if something cannot be printed on this printer, it cannot be printed on any other FDM printer. But for all the advantages you need to pay for large sizes and weight. Therefore, this printer is best used as a fully stationary.


    1st place - Raise3D E2

    It would seem that the previous 3D printer is the peak point of the development of FDM 3D printers. But Raise3D knows how to surprise! E2 has all the available functionality that is rarely found on printers separately, not to mention the combination of several functions: table auto-adjustment with height map display, a camera that can be monitored from the printer screen, and real-time video transfer to a computer , a dual carriage system that allows you to print two models at once and more. At the same time, it retains excellent printing accuracy and relatively high speed. Due to its compactness, it can even be put on a shelf in a closet, but additional space is still needed for full access to all structural elements. This printer can replace any printer from this top, in some cases even two printers due to the above two-carriage system.

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    Manufacturer PICASO 3D

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    Accessories

    Despite the self-sufficiency of many 3D printers, solving some problems when working with them can take a lot of time. But at the same time, many of these actions are simple enough to be performed by a separate device. Next, we will talk about gadgets that make it easier to use a 3D printer, as well as scanners that open up a new range of possibilities for recreating the real world.

    Scanners

    Some tasks of recreating the real world or repairing parts are extremely difficult to perform using manual model creation: repairing curved parts, creating a human model, reproducing architectural elements, and other non-standard tasks. Similar problems when digitizing real things will help you solve a 3D scanner. Basically, scanners are divided into stationary, scanning small objects, and portable, allowing you to scan objects such as cars, people, and even buildings. Some models can be attributed to both groups at once, but the main purpose of the scanner will prevail. Therefore, it is very important to determine the range of tasks that need to be completed. RangeVision Spectrum can be used as a stationary scanner. This scanner allows you to scan objects from 1 cm to 3 m. Such a variety of sizes of the scanned object allows you to cover most tasks.


    RangeVision Spectrum on tripod

    If there is a need to scan more objects, then you can use the Calibry portable scanner. Thanks to its convenient design, it can easily scan large objects up to 10m, and the built-in screen allows you to see the preliminary result of the work in real time.


    Postprocessing

    Despite the compactness and simplicity of working with SLA printers, after the completion of the printing process, it is necessary to clean the model of resin and additional UV illumination in order for the model to gain maximum strength. This time-consuming task can be performed manually, but to reduce time costs it is reasonable to use special devices that do these repetitive actions automatically. A representative of this class of devices is the Anycubic Wash&Cure. With it, you can easily clean the model and light it up. The user only needs to place the model on the turntable and Wash&Cure does the rest.


    It is also worth considering that automation of the process reduces the risks associated with working with resin: contact with the skin and inhalation of fumes. Therefore, with frequent work with SLA printers, this gadget will not only reduce time spent, but also increase the level of security.

    Filament drying

    If there is a large amount of filament for FDM printers, the question of its storage sharply arises. Most people just put it on the shelves in their rooms without worrying about its properties. But some materials are highly hygroscopic - the ability to absorb moisture from the air. And if the wet filament does not break the printer, then at least it will give out a low-quality model as a result of printing. Therefore, it is very important to dry the filament before printing, especially if it has been stored outdoors. Some craftsmen do this in ovens, but for obvious reasons, this option is not suitable for educational institutions. To accomplish this task, there are devices for feeding and drying the filament. The best choice would be Polymaker PolyBox. The distinctive feature of this filament dryer is that it is possible to dry and feed 2 spools weighing up to 1 kg each or 1 spool weighing up to 3 kg at once. This will allow the use of only one device for printers with two extruders.


    Polymaker PolyBox with two plastic spools

    Summing up

    After viewing this top, you may not fully decide on the choice of a 3D printer. Therefore, further we will separate all printers depending on the conditions for their use. For schools and continuing education clubs, the Wanhao Duplicator I3 mini, FlashForge Finder and Wanhao Duplicator 6 Plus are the best choices because of their ease of use, safety and reliability. For universities and colleges, PICASO 3D Designer X Pro, Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K and Raise3D E2 are suitable. They are distinguished by a huge functionality and breadth of 3D printing possibilities. Also, do not forget about additional devices: a scanner for digitizing objects from the real world, a drying and filament feed chamber for using demanding plastics, and post-processing cameras that make it easier for the final stage of working with a model printed on an SLA printer. As the world of 3D printing is evolving rapidly, you should not lose sight of the newer models of 3D printers, which you can read reviews on our blog.


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    Manufacturer Anycubic

    Expert in the field of additive and subtractive technologies, 3D equipment and CNC machines with over 10 years of experience.

    how not to miss the choice of a specific model for a beginner 3D printer / 3D printers, machines and accessories / iXBT Live

    3D printer is a modern gadget that allows you to create unique models from polymer materials using FDM or SLA technologies. Such printers allow you not only to print the model you have designed according to individual drawings, but also to replicate it, repeating it over and over again. 3D printers have found their application in modeling, construction and design, industry and medicine. But users often make mistakes, obeying wow impulses and making spontaneous purchases. Knowing what you need a printer for will help you narrow down your search and choose the right model.

    Beginners often fall for a number of common mistakes and make the wrong choice. Most often, this leads to a situation where a person “cools down” to 3D printing, and the purchased printer remains gathering dust in the corner. Sometimes this is caused by technical problems and a lack of the required level of knowledge and experience, sometimes by an incorrect choice of printer model.

    The first mistake is the lack of a purposeful choice

    First, try to decide on the purpose - what do you need a 3D printer for. Honestly imagine what models or details you will print on it and what scale. This is necessary in order not to waste money and time, and not to get an unclaimed device in a dusty corner. A compact 3D printer will be appropriate in the office or at home, it will be helpful in studies, hobbies or in your own business. The printer allows you to print models that you yourself have drawn in CAD, create components for a training project, shapes and parts for hobby and modeling, use open projects. Determine the media you plan to print with. FDM filaments such as PLA/ABS/PETG are available, as well as exotic (WOOD/Carbon/Nylon), elastic (TPU/Flex), etc., as well as photopolymer resins (SLA Resin). And if PLA / ABS are available for almost all FDM models, then compatible printers should be selected for the rest. For example, Nylon is extremely demanding on adhesion, TPU / Flex - on the plastic feed mechanism, etc.

    For example, for modeling in scales 1:72, 1:350, etc. It will be convenient to use an SLA printer that allows you to create products with high detail of photopolymer resin. That is, first we set a goal for ourselves - what the printer is for, and then we select the appropriate model. For example, quite high-quality and popular ANYCUBIC Photon models with high printing accuracy. And for an introduction to 3D printing, a simple and reliable printer like the Artillery Hornet or the Creality3D Ender-3 will do.

    The second mistake is buying 3D printers with a large field

    One of the most common mistakes users make when choosing a 3D printer is buying a "bigger" and "oversized" model. I encounter this type of error quite often. First, the user "invests" in a large printer, and then realizes that there is nothing to print on this option, and for small parts, a smaller printer could be chosen. First of all, large printers are more expensive, larger in size and more demanding on the rigidity of the frame as a whole. On a large area of ​​the table, the effects of shrinkage of plastic, distortion of the dimensions of the printed model, delamination of the applied plastic, as well as peeling off of the corners from the working surface of the table, are more pronounced. This can be dealt with, but the listed points can become a serious problem for a novice user. And the printing time for large-volume models can be measured in tens of hours.

    Purchasing large margin 3D printers can be justified in cases where you really plan to print large models without splitting, as a whole. A good example of a 3D printer with a large workspace would be Anycubic's Chiron (table size 400 x 400 mm with a maximum print height of 450 mm), the LONGER LK5 Pro (300 x 300 x 400 mm with additional frame reinforcement), or the Artillery Sidewinder X1 (also 300 x 300 x 400 mm).

    Third mistake - buying 3D printers with complex calibration

    Another common mistake users make is buying 3D printers with complicated calibration. These can be Delta printers, Scara models and the like. At first glance, they may seem interesting and simple, but from experience I will say that fine-tuning such printers can be a significant problem for the owner, requiring a deep understanding of the mechanics of the printer and the principles of 3D printing, as well as quite complex calibration of the movement of the print head along all axes of the device. Up to the fact that the resulting printing problems can completely discourage further desire to print and study 3D modeling.

    Therefore, we check the characteristics and description of the selected models in advance. Examples of similar printers from Aliexpress are Flsun Delta Kossel, Anycubic Kossel, HE3D Kossel and the like. An acceptable option is when modern 3D printers are equipped with automatic sensors for calibration and table calibration assistants in the regular display menu.

    Mistake Four - Color 3D Printers

    Buying complex printers that can print with multiple colors or multiple plastics can cause additional problems. Yes, the result of multi-color printing of models or colored figures without the need for coloring can be interesting. But in real printing, you will face the complex preparation of the model in the slicer, the need for a deep understanding of the process and the nuances of printing with several types of plastics.

    There are several dual filament printing options, ranging from Y-extruders to multiple independent printheads. When printing alternately one of the two heads, heated plastic can seep out of the unused one - you need to take into account retracts, “cleaning” before changing plastics (an additional separate “service” model is built nearby), calibration and alignment of the heads along the same coordinates. Color models must be loaded into the slicer separately, assigning a different model to each extruder. And if you still need color printing for work or your own project, then it makes sense to choose one of the proven models. For example, the JGMAKER Artist D 3D printer, which has two movable and independent print heads at once, each of which can be filled with a separate spool of plastic. This makes it possible not only to print color models, but also to create two separate models on the table at the same time, and it will also be convenient for printing soluble supports.

    Fifth mistake - choosing simplified "children's" models

    There are entry-level models in the range of 3D printer manufacturers. Sometimes a manufacturer saves by releasing models at the bottom of the market. These are budget options for novice users; in fact, these are “children's” printers. A good example is the Wanhao Duplicator i3, a simplified L-layout printer. The reduced rigidity of the carrier frame does not allow for high print quality. I note that the choice of models without blowing the thermal barrier can also be a potential problem. When printing for a long time, the thermal transition in the print head overheats and plugs can occur, leading to damage to models. This also includes 3D printers without a heated desktop, designed to print only with PLA plastic.

    However, children's models are also important and needed. They are designed to provide basic skills and an introduction to the world of 3D printing on a limited budget. A vivid example of such a model is the Funtastique EVO and LONGER Cube2 3D printers, which can be an interesting gift for a schoolchild.

    What to choose from the range of available 3D printers?

    Thus, imagining the use of a 3D printer specifically for your purposes, you can choose the right model. If you do not have serious skills, then it is better to purchase a simple and reliable printer that has proven itself. Long-sold models from Anycubic, Wanhao, Longer and others will be a good choice.

    But after gaining experience in 3D printing, you can move on to other options. Don't forget to get some 3D printing plastic too! If you are interested in other models of 3D printers, then I recommend that you look at the following articles:

    Choosing a 3D printer for home and hobby: a selection of current models for printing plastic using FDM technology.

    Learn more