Longest 3d print time

How long can a 3d printer safely print? - 3D Printing - Talk Manufacturing

BobbyLounsbury December 22, 2016, 6:12pm

Hi there, I recently bought a FlashForge finder to print random things I have designed in Autocad, my problem is, is I don’t know how long I can safely print without damaging the stepper motors or extruder, any help and knowledge would be much appreciated. My longest print so far has been four hours, but I have one that would go up to ten hours, I just wasn’t sure if it could handle that.

thanks,

Bobby

MSdesignCo December 23, 2016, 11:05pm

Printers are generally able to run up to a couple days for a print, my longest print has been 16 hours so far. I think you’ll run into issues with bed adhesion way before you have any problems with the printer itself.

Hope this helps!

Martin

Odense3DPrint December 25, 2016, 3:24pm

I have printed for 46 hours once

and reg. do 12+ print while i sleep

tpalagyi December 26, 2016, 5:11am

Hi,

3D printers can work for days.

The problems witch can occur:

- Steppers motor or its drivers get too hot and will lose steps= lower the motor current on the drivers, also make sure the stepper drivers have heat sink and a small fan cools the electronics

- Print head jams : use a good quality filament and a quality hotend like E3D V6

- Print peels of the build plate during print, use brim or raft for long prints for best adhesion. Make sure the print surface is super clean before print starts or use glue stick/hairspray, also a correct bed leveling is a key point for best first layer adhesion to the print bed.

1 Like

JacobBlumberg December 27, 2016, 4:04am

I have done a print that took 60 hours and it was working perfectly until the power flickered a 99% which killed the print, but yeah once it starts printing as long as it doesn’t Jam you can just leave it alone and monitor the filament.

Some Of The World’s Largest And Smallest 3D Prints « Fabbaloo

By Sarah Goehrke on July 29th, 2020 in Design

Tags: large, large scale, micro, microscopic, nano, small, world record

A microscopic David Bowie-inspired figure in the stop-motion film Stardust Odyssey[Image: Stardust Odyssey]

3D printing is in the record books — specifically the Guinness Book of World Records — for some unusual creations.

3D Printing World Records

First? Biggest? Smallest? Longest? Heaviest? There’s a record for that. The Guinness Book of World Records is of course a treasure trove of the unusual, the unignorable, the one-of-a-kind or best-of-a-kind. Having an entry in this book isn’t altogether an unusual ambition, but perhaps we don’t often think much about how 3D printing may have made its way into the records.

We talk often about the rising adoption of 3D printing, and for the most part these days we’re talking industrial usage. Some of those industrial uses have, as it happens, set some records. But so have some just-because uses…because, hey, world record.

Let’s just take a look at a few of the ways that 3D printing has entered the record books in terms of some of the biggest — and smallest — objects ever to emerge from 3D printers.

My quick search of the Guinness site’s record holdings reveal 22 results for “3D printed” (and 28 for “3D print” but several of these aren’t actually related).

Largest Solid 3D Printed Item AND Largest 3D Printed Boat

[Image: University of Maine Advanced Structures and Composites Center via Guinness]

Sometimes going big in 3D printing means going big. This project tallies a total of three world records, and they seem… well earned, to put it mildly. You can see more, including a time-lapse of the build, here.

Who: University of Maine Advanced Structures and Composites Center
What: 2.06 cubic meters (for largest solid item) / 7.72 meters (for largest boat)
Where: United States (Orono, Maine)
When: 10 October 2019

“The largest solid 3D printed object measures 2.06 m³ (72.78 ft³) of 3D printed material, and was made by the University of Maine Advanced Structures and Composites Center (USA) in Orono, Maine, USA, on 10 October 2019.
The boat is named 3Dirigo, after the state of Maine’s motto, ‘Dirigo’.”

Per the Wikipedia entry about that state motto, it seems appropriate for a double-record-setting build:

“Dīrigō (Latin ‘I direct’ or ‘I lead’) is the state motto of Maine, having once been the only state to hold its elections in September. (Politicians kept their eyes on these elections for evidence of a trend. Prior to the New Deal, Republicans claimed ‘As Maine goes, so goes the nation.’)”

Largest Prototype Polymer 3D Printer

[Image: University of Maine Advanced Structures and Composites Center via Guinness]

Let’s not leave Maine quite yet, as the 3D printer used to make the 3Dirigo boat was itself a record setter:

Who: University of Maine Advanced Structures and Composites Center
What: 343.61 cubic meters
Where: United States (Orono, Maine)
When: 10 October 2019

“The largest prototype polymer 3D printer measures 343.61m³ (12,134.47 ft³), and was achieved by the University of Maine Advanced Structures and Composites Center (USA) in Orono, Maine, USA, on 10 October 2019.”

Tallest 3D Printed Sculpture of a Human

Who: James Bruton
What: 3.62 meters
Where: United Kingdom (Winchester)
When: 20 October 2017

“The tallest 3D-printed sculpture of a human is 3.62 m (11 ft 10 in) and was achieved by James Bruton (UK) in Winchester, UK, on 20 October 2017.
James has a keen interest in robotics and technology which he explores via his YouTube channel. The sculpture was of himself and was displayed and measured at Winchester Discovery Centre.”

Smallest Sculpture of a Human

[Image: Jonty Hurwitz]

The story of the teeniest 3D printed human ever does not have a happy ending. The beyond-wee-bitty sculpture was unfortunately lost forever shortly after its creation. That makes it no less beautiful or impressive…and is in fact perhaps a helpful reminder to always watch yourself around precious art. Anyway, Guinness says:

Who: Jonty Hurwitz
What: 80, 100, 30 microns
Where: Germany (Karlsruhe)
When: 13 February 2015

“The smallest sculpture modelled on a real person was ‘Trust’ by Jonty Hurwitz (UK), a 3D-printed piece depicting a nude and measuring 80 by 100 by 30 microns (or the diameter of a human hair). The statue, inspired by the artist’s first love 27 years after they met, was verified on 13 February 2015 at the Karlsruhe Nano Micro Facility in Germany.
Soon after it was measured, the statue disappeared, most probably crushed accidentally by a full-size human finger. The sculpture was created by ‘digitizing’ the posing model into a 3D computer image using a multiple-camera technique called photogrammetry. This file was then then miniaturized, sculpted and ‘printed’ using multiphoton lithography, a technique in which a pliable material is polymerised piece by piece by focusing photons onto specific points.There are around 1,000 microns in one millimetre. ”

Smallest 3D Stop-Motion Animation Character

Who: Thibaut Pinsard, Université de Franche-Comté, Université Libre de Bruxelles
What: 0.3 millimeters
Where: France (Besançon)
When: 14 December 2018

“Thibaut was keen to explore animation on a microscopic level. The character was 3D printed and stars in the stop-motion movie ‘STARDUST ODYSSEY’ which was shot using a scanning electron microscope.”

The making-of video highlights more of the behind-the-scenes goodness on this Bowie tribute:

Via Guinness World Records

By Sarah Goehrke

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Sarah Goehrke is a Special Correspondent for Fabbaloo, via a partnership with Additive Integrity LLC. Focused on the 3D printing industry since 2014, she strives to bring grounded and on-the-ground insights to the 3D printing industry. Sarah served as Fabbaloo's Managing Editor from 2018-2021 and remains active in the industry through Women in 3D Printing and other work.

View all of Sarah Goehrke's posts.

biggest solid object Credit: Oak Ridge National Laboratory

On August 29, 2016, the Guinness World Records holds a new record for the world's largest solid object ever printed on a 3D printer. This item was a tool for cutting and drilling parts of the future Boeing 777X aircraft. The rig was developed by Oak Ridge National Laboratory and Boeing. nine0007
The tooling for cutting and drilling parts was printed in just 30 hours from a composite material, a mixture of carbon fiber and ABS thermoplastic. The rig is 5.3 meters long, 1.7 meters wide and 0.5 meters high. Its weight is approximately 748 kg. In length, this part is approximately equal to a large SUV, although, of course, it is inferior in width and weight.

Photo: Oak Ridge National Laboratory

“The more expensive metal tooling we use now is made by a supplier. He's been rigging for about three months using a conventional manufacturing process,” said Leo Christodoulou, director of designs and materials at Boeing. – Additive technology [i.e. 3D printing - approx. trans.] production of tooling, such as tooling for the manufacture of 777X wing parts, saves energy, time, effort and reduces costs. Therefore, additive technologies are part of our overall strategy to increase the use of 3D printing in key manufacturing areas. nine0005

A large 3D printing machine called BAAM (Big Area Additive Manufacturing) manufactured by the American company Cincinnati Incorporated was used to make tooling in the demonstration hall of the Oak Ridge National Laboratory.

BAAM 3D printing machine. Photo: Cincinnati Incorporated

The latest 3D printing systems such as Stratsys Infinite-Build 3D allow thermoplastic products to be printed with virtually no length restrictions. Details are printed in one piece. They do not need to be connected from separate parts, as in conventional 3D printing systems with a restriction on the working area.

The 30-hour printing process is compressed into a 30-second video released by Boeing yesterday.

The new tooling will be tested during the construction of the Boeing 777X aircraft. This is a new family of large passenger aircraft, which is still in development. In a few years, they should compete with the Airbus A350-1000, which in September 2016 will make its first test flight. nine0005

Boeing 777X passenger aircraft. Render, frame from video: Boeing

Around 2020, it is planned to put into commercial operation two variants of the Boeing 777X: 777-8 and 777-9. A 450-passenger 777-10 model is also being discussed to compete with the Airbus A380-800.

777X production starts in 2017.

For these aircraft, General Electric Corporation is currently developing a new modification of the GE9 turbofan enginesX with a thrust of 470 kN and a fan diameter of 339 cm. It is the largest fan among all turbofan engines manufactured by General Electric.

GE9X turbofan engine for Boeing 777X. Render: Boeing

A turbofan engine differs from a conventional turbojet bypass engine in higher efficiency, because the energy of the jet stream is not lost at the exit of the engine, but is converted into fan rotation, which creates additional thrust (up to 70-80% of all engine thrust). nine0005

Guinness World Records judge Michael Empric measured the manufactured part and confirmed that it was over 0.3 cubic meters in volume and announced a new record. Of course, this record is still far from the world's largest 3D-printed structure with a volume of 1504 m ³ (China's "City of the Future" structure is assembled from 5370 printed PLA bricks).

“Guinness World Records recognition draws attention to our achievements in research into the production of large composite parts,” said Vlastimil Kunc, head of the polymer materials design team at Oak Ridge National Laboratory. “With 3D printing, we can design and manufacture tooling using less material without sacrificing functionality.” nine0005

By the way, the US Department of Energy has created a special Bureau to explore the possibilities of 3D printing and other advanced manufacturing technologies (Advanced Manufacturing Office).

Guinness World Records Judge Michael Empric presented certificates for holding the record for the largest solid 3D printed part to Oak Ridge National Laboratory Director Thom Mason, Director of Designs and Materials Boeing, Leo Christodoulou, and Boeing engineers Vlastimil Kunc and Mike Matlack. Photo: Oak Ridge National Laboratory

Boeing plans to use the printed tooling at its new St. Louis plant to produce elements that reinforce the composite wing skin of the Boeing 777X.

13 notes about 3D printing, after 3 years of owning a 3D printer / Habr

This article will be, first of all, of interest both to those who have directly dealt with 3D printing, that is, who owns a 3D printer, but also to those who are just about to join the ranks of 3D printers and are thinking about buying their own printer. nine0005

As part of this article, I would like to share my observations, as a direct owner of a 3D printer, for more than 3 years.

Despite the fact that 3D printers have been known for a long time and, in my memory, have become widely used, judging by the information on various resources, starting around 2010 (I may be wrong, these are my subjective observations), for a long time I ignored this area, it’s hard to say why…

Probably, he considered it some kind of “childish pampering”, another hype topic, for which there is simply not enough time…

The break happened when one of the wheels on my travel suitcase wore out. You know, a big plastic suitcase, with four spinning wheels on the bottom. Unfortunately, it is a “rather disposable thing”, due to the lack of bearings on the wheels, which is why the wear of the friction point of the axle and wheel allows the suitcase to last no more than one or two seasons.

And it’s like “lightning flashed in the middle of the day: 3D printer!” It is with his help that I can fix this problem! Looking ahead, I’ll say that I didn’t succeed in fixing the suitcase in this way, so I had to use a different approach ...

As a result, I "upped" him - by installing wheels from unnecessary roller skates. Thanks to this “up”, the suitcase has become a real all-terrain vehicle and, even being very loaded, it rides easily - pushed forward even with “one finger”. And even in the snow, 5-6 cm thick. A tank, not a suitcase turned out! By the way - I took spinning wheeled "units" in Leroy. Then he took off and threw out his native plastic wheels from there, inserting from roller skates:

But this thought itself became a kind of trigger that allowed me to finally join the world of printers and buy my first 3D printer. nine0005

Like many, before buying it, I studied various forums and sites for a long time, delving into all the subtleties. And for some reason, I immediately liked the type of printer called the delta printer. Probably because during operation it looks like some kind of "alien device".

If at your leisure you like to sit “looking into the carpet”, then with the advent of such a printer you will have a much more interesting activity, even, one might say, hypnotizing :-))

And this, in fact, is my delta (if anyone interesting), which went, let's say, "ultimate up": all the electronics were placed upstairs, on a self-made welded frame, covered with polyethylene and a magnetic door was made. The coil with a bar is installed at the top, on the frame. The axis on which the coil is put on is machined on a lathe from aluminum and a bearing from the VAZ timing is inserted into it. As a result, the coil - "rotates even from the passage of a fly nearby":

Well, yes, I won’t argue for a long time, let’s start reviewing the main facts that I have accumulated as a result of owning this car . .. The facts are purely subjective and may differ from your vision. In any case, I will be glad to comments, clarifications, etc.

▍ NOTE 1. Delta is good, but...

Here I should give a number of my observations regarding the delta printer:

It contains a completely finished frame of the future box, which makes it easy to form a thermal chamber. I understand that many printers are made in the form factor of a “certain box” (but this point cannot be ignored), which greatly facilitates the process of wrapping this box with heat-insulating material. In my case, as such a material, I used a plastic film. nine0105
Already thanks to its design, delta allows you to work at much higher speeds than XY printers. By the way, it is on the delta principle that many modern high-speed industrial robots are built to sort various parts directly on the conveyor belt:

However, this plus does not allow to fully realize the occurrence of parasitic vibrations, even despite their suppressors:

Thus, accurate printing is possible, only at speeds (at least that was the case for me), no more than 60 mm per second. A complex procedure for aligning the movement of the head parallel to the table, which is why, for many, the so-called "lens" appears. People struggle with it with varying degrees of success, but I have not encountered this on my printer and for me, therefore, the “lens” has never been a problem. At the same point, it is worth noting the calibration of the table, which was initially absent on the first deltas, and I had to use an external third-party solution from one American do-it-yourselfer called EZBED. This solution was a hardware-software complex that allows you to quickly and easily calibrate the printing table, that is, to let the printer understand its geometry. Modern printers do not have this issue as they come with a built-in calibration solution. It is worth noting that I solved this problem by attaching a limit switch to the print head, and using the Marlin-1.1.9 firmware.

▍ NOTE 2. "Size doesn't matter..." :-)

When I got the printer, I was impressed by the possibility of huge printouts, a la the handguards of some futuristic rifles, huge body parts, etc.

However, if you try to analyze the results of your many years of practice, it turns out that in most cases, rather small objects were printed that easily fit in the palm of your hand, a maximum of two palms. Despite such a seemingly small size, the printing of these details took a significant amount of time. Of course, this very much depends on which nozzle you print with. But, despite this, it is difficult to disagree with the fact that most of the printed parts will be quite utilitarian and small in size. nine0005

Therefore, to be honest, the need for a printer that allows you to print "Venus de Milo in life size" is not obvious.

Of course, you can object to me that “I’m going to buy a printer, I’ll get used to it a bit and I’ll start!!!”

One simple point must be taken into account here: there are no universal things. And in order to understand how much 3D printing in general and your printer, in particular, you will need to solve your problems, and how much it will be able to solve such problems, you just need to first try the 3D printing method personally and then a lot will become clear to you . nine0005

Therefore, for a beginner, I recommend taking a small printer that allows you to print extremely small items that fit in the palm of two. With such a device, you will definitely never lose, as it will always be needed. In addition, with its help you will be able to get used to the printing process and, if necessary, purchase a larger device, already clearly understanding its capabilities and ability to solve your set of tasks.

▍ NOTE 3. "What type of printer to get." nine0100

Based on the foregoing, I do not recommend taking a delta printer and this can be said right away.

Not because it is bad, in fact, it prints quite accurately, its main problem (in my opinion) is the inability to print rectangular flat, fairly large case components, as well as the inability to fully realize high-speed work, since the quality drops critically. Here it turns out to be a rather offensive situation - the printer can work quickly, but this cannot be done, since the quality will be “nothing”. nine0005

And then what kind to take? Depending on the budget and capabilities, I recommend taking any cube printer, for example, the same Core XY (the head moves, and the table goes down as the model “grows”, from top to bottom):

Image source: thingiverse.com

Such a printer allows you to easily print fairly large flat parts of cases, has good speed and accuracy. In addition, the presence of a rigid box-shaped frame allows it to be easily covered with polyethylene to create a sealed heat chamber. In addition, the very fact that the table does not move while working reduces the number of problems with model peeling. nine0005

However, the advantages of this printer will not be fully revealed if it has a direct extruder. On the one hand, it will allow printing with rubber-like materials, on the other -
large inertia and head weight. And these are parasitic vibrations, wear of the fur. parts, etc. (like everything in life, “we treat one thing and cripple another” :-))

At the initial stages, this may not be necessary, but in the future it may be necessary to print, for example, tires for your homemade car. And with this, the Bowden extruder has obvious problems. Although, in fairness, printing with such a rubber-like material is far from a daily need. However, whoever seeks will always find: over time, I found a way to “upgrade” my printer with a Bowden extruder to print with flexible materials. "Crutches" of course. But even so. nine0005

By the way, there are printers of a cheaper type, the so-called "drygostol", printing by moving the table and head:

They are inexpensive, moderately accurate, but they require a sufficiently high-quality gluing of the printed model to the table, because the table moves, and the model can come off when the table is jerked sharply. When printing large models, this can be a problem.

▍ NOTE 4. What to print with?

It's only a matter of taste and purpose. That is, if your printout will only stand on a shelf and should differ in some kind of aesthetic appearance, these are some requirements, if the printout is an engineering part that will be operated under conditions of increased mechanical load, these are different requirements. That is, in the first case, you can use any PLA, SBS plastics, and others with similar properties. nine0005

For engineering parts, for example, I only use ABS. It combines high hardness, strength and low price. Although I understand that now this last statement will cause a storm of comments in the style of “no! - there is even stronger, even better, the same PETG, etc. ":-)

Just here I wanted to say that thanks to the low price and the practical experiments that I conducted with ABS plastic, I realized that it is completely meets all my requirements. nine0005

However, the fact that ABS plastic releases carcinogenic substances when heated is quite annoying and forces you to take measures to prevent poisoning. For this, my printer prints completely closed and on an open balcony. After printing, the printer chamber opens, and it remains open in this form until it is completely ventilated and cools down.

▍ NOTE 5. "ABS is difficult to type on, it separates, peels off the table, and in general.

.."

With a properly configured printer (in my case, at a print temperature of 205 degrees, a thermal chamber and a desktop temperature of 100 degrees), the use of auxiliary techniques, for example, among which, one can name the so-called ABS juice (which is ABS- plastic dissolved in acetone), you can create wear-resistant and durable things, without any hypothetical problems. nine0005

For example, my printer has been printing for many hours at temperatures well below freezing. And this happened more than once, not twice, not three! And the print quality was excellent:

12 hour ABS printing at -4 C

▍ NOTE 6. Acetone for post-processing and ABS juicing

At one time, I wrote a fairly detailed article on this topic and I will try to give the main excerpts from it. The essence of the issue here is as follows: due to the fact that different GOSTs are used for the production of acetone, acetone differs in quality. Despite the fact that it would seem that “acetone is also acetone in Africa,” nevertheless, one type of acetone can differ significantly from each other. For example, ordinary acetone, which can be bought at any hardware store, such as "1000 little things", "store near the house" and the like, is very low quality acetone, smells disgusting (although someone like it, maybe someone likes its pleasant building aroma and "aftertaste" :-))). nine0005

In contrast to it, there is a much higher quality acetone, which, however, is not found at all in any household stores, even large chain stores, such as Auchan or Leroy Merlin.

This type of acetone is found exclusively in shops that sell varnishes and paints for automotive work - that is, these are highly specialized shops for car workshops:

Acetone, which can be purchased there, is of excellent quality, smells almost like alcohol, quickly disappears,

~~easy to drink~~

:-) - this is a joke, of course, don't even try it.

However, its main advantage, compared to household type acetone, is that it perfectly dissolves ABS plastic and does not allow it to precipitate. For me personally, it was a very surprising observation when the same ABS plastic was perfectly dissolved with acetone from an auto shop, and completely precipitated when I tried to use household acetone (I just ran out of good acetone, and I had to use "what is "). nine0005

Therefore, if you want your result to be always excellent, then here is the right acetone. It should be labeled "for professional use":

▍ NOTE 7. What about ABS juice?

"ABS juice" is what printers call a mixture of acetone and pieces of ABS plastic dissolved in it. This mixture is smeared on the surface of the desktop before printing and allowed to dry. Thanks to this spread, the model easily sticks to the desktop and does not peel off during the printing process. After printing is completed and the platen has cooled down, the model can be easily separated. nine0005

All that needs to be said here is that, after trying different approaches over time, I settled on using flexible metal spatulas, also called “Japanese-style spatulas”:

According to the results of many tests, this method of spreading turned out to be one of the most convenient options, such spatulas can be cleaned very quickly and easily after work. In other words, highly recommended!

▍ NOTE 8. "Yes, nothing sensible can be done on it, I indulged a little and decided to sell it - you can't use it for anything good anyway"

I absolutely disagree with the statement above, which is periodically heard from newcomers to 3D printing. You can even say more: at the moment I can’t even imagine how I used to live without a 3D printer! Since it is he who makes it possible for any do-it-yourselfer to significantly expand their capabilities and make piece products, almost of factory quality! Of course, for this, the appropriate hands must be applied to the 3D printer, but that’s another question… and take on things that I would never have thought to take on before! nine0005

For example, among my homemade products, the following can be listed:

Heated sole for boots, which is a hose integrated into the insole (and filled with household silicone from a household store), through which water flows, heated with a catalytic type hand warmer. Water is pumped using a small peristaltic pump. The engine with a metal gearbox, which is used in the creation of this pump, allows you to develop a force of 3 kg, which is even redundant for this homemade product. The engine is powered by Peltier elements mounted next to the catalytic heater. The project is currently in progress. nine0105

Centrifugal water pump mounted on the shaft of an internal combustion engine that drives a high-pressure wearable air compressor with a pressure of 500 bar. The pump pumps coolant through the casing of the high pressure pump, or rather its second stage. Despite the fact that the pump is 3D printed and runs at over 6000 rpm, nothing “fell apart, fell apart, didn’t break.” As you can see in the photo, the pump is installed instead of the “starter”, that is, the armstarter. The compressor scheme as a whole is as follows: 2 engines. Connected by clutch. One is heavy duty. The second is modified and turned into a high pressure compressor:

Yes, before assembling this, I also did not believe that this was possible. Moreover, even when I collected it, I did not believe my eyes :-))). However, it is a fact…

I printed a number of Rank-Hilsch test tubes, the essence of which I have described in detail in this article.

Mass of over 100 parts printed to create 10 internet controlled robots. There was also a detailed article about this here.

Well, and a bunch of all sorts of useful and not very crafts. As you can see from my crafts above, I have a special passion for creating some useful things, a utilitarian direction. That is, so that the printout is useful, and does not belong to the type “yyy breathe, Mikola, what am I doing here” :-), and then put it on the shelf and that's it. Although, engineers are also not alien to beauties, and this will be my next fact below. nine0005

▍ NOTE 9 Proper placement of the model when printing is half the battle

It would seem an obvious fact, but many underestimate it. Here I mean the following: by experience, I accidentally discovered that when printing various statues (in which I, completely unexpectedly for myself, discovered another passion of mine), it is advisable to place the statues at an angle to the printing table.

This allows the layers in the printout to run at an angle of approximately 45-50 degrees to the model. The result of this is that the printed model is almost completely invisible layers and the model looks like it has been post-processed, but at the same time retains a deep matte color, which, to my personal taste, is more like a marble than a glossy result of processing in an acetone bath : nine0005

An additional advantage of this method is that the layers going at an angle of 45-50 ° to the model give it additional strength. This is especially true for printing statues, which contain many thin elements that are easily chipped when the statue is accidentally dropped from a table or shelf (learned from bitter experience, this happened to me many times, and ruined some fairly decent prints).

That is, layers running across the model, if the model has a large extension in height, does not allow it to maintain sufficient strength. For better understanding, I tried to illustrate this point in the figures below:

▍ NOTE 10. "Blurring" must be taken into account when printing, especially if the model is made up of separate parts and must be assembled by joining these parts to each other, entering into each other, etc.

I tried to illustrate this point in the figures below. The implication here is that if you're printing a composite model, you need to correct for the amount of bleed on the plastic (I'm not sure what it's called, but at least I tried to convey what I mean). If this is not taken into account, then the model will not fit. nine0005

For example, in my case this correction is 0.2 mm per diameter - if I want the model to fit more tightly; if I need a free joint, without excessive density, then 0.3 mm per diameter:

That is, suppose that the blue part has a size of 10x10mm. So it must be modeled in a CAD program as 9.8x9.8 mm (if we want it to sit tight) or 9.7x9.7 mm (to sit freely). Well, or expand the hole in the green part, and leave the blue one as it is. nine0007 This is often a problem when you download a prefabricated model from the Internet - but it is not going to, even if you crack! But because no amendments have been made…

For your particular case, the amendments may be different.

▍ NOTE 11. What if...

In fact, this note complements note number 8. Using a 3D printer allows you to create metal parts using a printed 3D model. For this, the casting method is used according to the lost wax or burnt model. In our case, we will deal mainly with metal casting on a burnt model. nine0005

Briefly it looks like this: printing a 3D model (using PLA plastic) → pouring it with plaster → burning the PLA plastic, simultaneously with burning the mold, in a conventional stove oven → pouring the resulting shape with molten metal (melted in a conventional microwave) .

Image source: 3dtopo.com

I told about a simple method of melting metals in a home microwave oven here.

There was even a good article about casting on Habré. nine0005

▍ NOTE 12. Durability?

Despite the fact that ABS plastic is called exposed to ultraviolet radiation and, accordingly, burns out, losing its strength in the sun, in my practice, even printouts that are constantly exposed to the sun have not lost their strength and color at all, continuing to be successfully used and Currently.

It should also be added here that printouts are constantly exposed not only to the rays of the sun, but also work continuously in damp conditions! nine0005

As such printouts, I can give an example of winglets for technical cranes, which I printed out, but, unfortunately, did not photograph this process; as well as fasteners on shoes that I use “both in the snow, and in the heat and in the pouring rain, and in general are always with me”: