How to dissolve support material 3d printing

Search Posts

Search for:

About Production Automation

Production Automation Corporation (that’s us) is an essential business supplier for medical device, cleanroom, and general manufacturing industries.

All products featured on the PAC blog are available through the www. gotopac.com webstore. Online orders are shipped and fulfilled Monday – Friday from PAC warehouses in California, Minnesota, and Texas.

Production Automation Corporation (PAC) stands 100% behind a product catalog of over 40,000 products, which includes support for factory warranties, value added services, and returns. Get help from a PAC sales rep during business hours via email, phone, or live chat.

Shop Online: www.gotopac.com
Toll Free: (888) 903-0333
Email: [email protected]
Office Hours: 8am - 5pm CST

Using Dissolvable Filament to Create Supports

Using Dissolvable 3D Printing Filament is an easy and effective way to create support structures for your 3D printed part. In this article, we'll take a look at the different types of dissolvable filaments on offer, the benefits of using them over insoluble filaments, and tips and tricks for the smoothest possible printing process.

FDM 3D printing is a manufacturing technology that allows you to create parts with complex geometries that are usually impossible to obtain using traditional methods. However, when using this technology, each layer of the part requires supports, either on the structure of the part itself or on an additional support structure.

With a single extruder 3D printer, you are limited to using the base material of the printed part to create the support structure. Things are different with dual-extruder printers, since dissolvable filaments can be used to create support structures.

Soluble 3D Printing Filament Types

Water Soluble 3D Printing Filaments

Such materials are known for their solubility in ordinary water without any aggregates. This makes them an excellent option, as their dissolution does not pose any danger, and also does not cause any reaction to the base material of the product.

One of these materials is PVA, which is the most commonly used support material in 3D printing. BVOH is another widely used material with better material compatibility than PVA as well as faster dissolution time.

Water Soluble Chemical 3D Printer Filaments

Some industrial grade materials are not compatible with filaments such as PVA or BVO due to their chemical properties and/or heat resistance. For this reason, materials like BVOH or PVA have been designed with additional properties to make them compatible with high temperature materials such as PEEK, PEKK, PPSU, PP and others.

In order to dissolve these supports, the pH of the water must be acidic in order to break down the sugar that this type of material normally contains, as this is less dangerous than the use of solvents.

Soluble 3D Printer Filaments with Organic Solvents

These are the least used materials due to the difficulty of using organic solvents with polymers most used in 3D printing as the solvent can react with the print material and damage it.

The advantage of using these materials is their high compatibility with the construction material. The most common example is HIPS as a support material for ABS.

Insoluble and dissolvable filaments for 3D printers

Soluble filaments for support structures have advantages and disadvantages compared to using insoluble filaments:

• Easy to remove supports
• Since the supports are soluble, simply dip the model in the appropriate solvent and wait until the supports are gone. This is very useful for parts with a very complex structure.
• Improved contact surface quality
• This advantage is related to the first point; since the material is easily removed, a strong base can be created in the area where supports are required, resulting in a smooth surface without filament residue.
• Less need for post-processing of the model
• The ability to print complex 3D models with high surface quality using dissolvable filaments also reduces the need for post-processing tasks such as polishing, sanding, gluing, etc.
• Longer print times in increasing the time of 3D printing, since materials need to be changed in the process. However, there are techniques for optimizing the support structure to reduce this problem.

Tips for creating support structures with dissolvable filaments

By changing some settings in your slicer, you can get solid supports to improve the quality of your 3D model.

Strengthening the Supports

It is quite common to create thin supports for very thin parts of a model, however they are not strong and tend to break during the printing process. To increase their durability, you can adjust the following support configuration options:

Horizontal Support Extension: Increases the overall thickness of the support, allowing the tower to be thicker and stronger.

Avoid breakage of supports during printing

The thickness of supports is equal to the diameter of the hot end, so they are usually quite fragile and can break during printing. By changing the pattern and other parameters, the strength can be increased:

• Support pattern: Patterns such as grid and triangle are quite resistant to tearing during printing. It is recommended to print such patterns only on soluble material, as they are quite difficult to remove.
• Supports printing speed: If the supports are printed too fast, there is a risk of breaking the structure. Reducing the speed avoids vibration or damage to the structure as the head passes.

Improving the quality of the surface of the model

The quality of the contact surface depends on the distance Z from the support pattern, the direction of the upper and lower perimeter lines and the amount of material holding the base of the model. Changing these parameters can improve the quality of the surface, but will complicate the process of extracting supports.

• Density of supports: The higher the density, the better the model will hold and therefore the surface finish will improve.
• Top/Bottom Line Direction: Changing the direction of the perimeter pattern helps hold the bottom layer of the model, as it allows the support and the perimeter pattern to intersect better.
• Support Pattern and Top/Bottom Pattern: The support and perimeter patterns affect how the support model attaches, ideally the patterns should overlap as often as possible to better secure the first layer.

Always remember that it is important to keep filaments in a dry environment, as soluble materials readily absorb moisture and can cause printing problems. Materials such as PVA and BVOH can be dissolved in normal water. This water can also be heated to shorten the removal time of supports.

We hope you follow our advice and recommendations to improve the surface quality of your 3D printed parts and make the process faster and more efficient.

We will keep you updated with the latest news!

Your iGo3D Russia team

Our groups in social networks:

VKontakte

Telegram

YouTube

Plastic processing for 3D printer. Plastic post-processing after 3D printing ABS, PLA, Nylon, Petg

Contents:

1. Post-processing of FDM parts
2. Remove supports
3. Removal of soluble supports when printing with a 3D printer with two extruders
4. Sanding plastic 3D printed products
5. Application of Acetone in ABS plastic processing
6. Filling irregularities in ABS plastics
7. Polishing ABS/PLA
8. Priming and painting 3D printed products
9. Acetone baths for ABS products
10. Chemical solvent baths
11. Using epoxy to finish prints

Hello everyone, Friends! With you 3DTool!

With FDM 3D printing you can quickly and economically produce plastic parts of any geometric shape. Finished parts show visually the lines of the layers they were printed on, making post-processing an important consideration if a smooth surface is required. Some post-processing techniques can also increase the strength of finished products by helping to reduce their anisotropic properties.
This article will discuss the most common post-processing techniques in FDM 3D printing .


Catalog of FDM 3D printers

Post-processing of FDM parts

This picture above (left to right) shows the post-processed parts FDM :

1. gap filling
2. raw
3. sanded
4. polished
5. painted
6. epoxy coated

Remove supports

Support removal is typically the first step in post-processing for any 3D printing technologies if the part requires support for precision manufacturing. Supports can usually be divided into 2 categories: standard and instant .
Unlike other post-processing methods discussed in this article, support removal is a requirement and does not result in improved surface quality.
Removing supports mechanically is necessary when printing with a 3D printer with a single extruder (for example, PICASO Designer X, Hercules 2018, Zenit, Prusa i3 Steel Bizon) When using 3D printers with two extruders, as a rule, the supporting part of the product is made of special soluble materials.

Catalog of 3D printers with two extruders

Left to right. Original printing with support, poor support removal and quality support removal.

Tools and materials you will need for this job:

1. Pliers
2. Set with small tools (eg watchmaker's set).

Support Removal Process: The support material can usually be removed from the finished model without much effort. Cleaning of the substrate material in hard-to-reach places (for example, in holes) can be done using an awl and pliers. Properly positioned support structures and proper print orientation can greatly reduce the impact of the support material on the aesthetics of the final result.

Pluses


• The overall geometry of the part does not change
• Fast on time

Cons


• Does not remove visible layer lines, streaks or smudges on print surface
• If support structures leave excess material or marks behind, the accuracy and appearance of the part will be reduced



Removal of soluble supports when printing with a 3D printer with two extruders

As we said earlier, the removal of supports printed from soluble materials is done differently than manually, mechanically, so the use of 2 or more extruder printers is preferable. (e.g. PICASO Designer X PRO, Raise3D PRO2)

Catalog of 3D printers with two extruders

Tools and supplies you will need for this job:

1. Solvent safe container
2. Thinner
3. Ultrasonic cleaner (optional)

Process : the final model is placed in a bath with the appropriate solvent (for example, for PVA plastic it will be ordinary water, for material HIPS will be D-limonene ) until the support material dissolves. Support is usually printed with:

1. HIPS (in conjunction with ABS )
2. PVA (in conjunction with PLA )

Glass storage containers such as jars are excellent receptacles for diluting limonene. For dissolution in water, any non-porous container will do. For prints using HIPS/ABS bath with 1:1 ratio of limonene to isopropyl alcohol works very well for quick support removal. Many other support materials such as PVA (used with PLA ) are water soluble.

Helpful Hint: Speed ​​up the dissolution time of the support material by using an ultrasonic bath and changing the solution as soon as it becomes saturated with plastic dissolved in itself. Using a warm (not hot) solvent will also speed up the dissolution time if you don't have an ultrasonic cleaner available.


Catalog of ultrasonic baths

Pros

• Great for complex geometries where standard support removal would be impossible without damaging the base model.
• The result is a smooth surface where the support structure is in contact with the base piece.

Cons

• Improper dissolution of the material can lead to discoloration and deformation of the entire part.
• Does not remove visible layer lines, streaks or spots on part surface
• May cause small spots or holes in the final print if soluble material gets on the object during printing
• 
  

3D plastic sanding

Sanded brown ABS plastic part

Tools and materials you will need for this job:

1. Sandpaper up to grit 1000
2. Rags
3. Toothbrush
4. Soap
5. Face mask

Sanding Process: After the supports have been removed or dissolved, sanding can be performed to smooth the part and remove any visible stains or traces of the supports. The initial grit size of the sandpaper depends on the layer height and print quality.
For layers with a height of 0.2 mm or less, or if there are no spots left on the part after printing, sanding can be started with a paper grain of - 150.
If there are visible spots or the object was printed at a layer height of 0.3 mm or more, start sanding with 100 grit paper.

purity. The print should be cleaned with a toothbrush in soapy water and then with a rag, between sanding gradations to prevent dust build-up and " sintering ". Your FDM parts can be sanded down to 5000 grit to achieve a shiny part surface.

Helpful Hint:
Always sand in small circular motions evenly over the entire surface of the part. Of course, it is more convenient to sand perpendicular or even parallel to the print layers, but this can lead to indentations in the model. If the part becomes discolored or if there are many small scratches after sanding, you can use a blow dryer. With it, you gently heat the part, thereby softening the surface a little and visible unnecessary defects will weaken or disappear altogether.

Pros


• With this method you get an extremely smooth surface
• This method facilitates additional post-processing (such as painting, polishing, or epoxy coating)

Cons

• Not recommended for thin wall prints as this may damage part
• Difficult for surfaces with difficult geometries and fine details
• Can affect overall print accuracy if sanding is too aggressive and too much material is removed

Acetone for ABS plastic

Two white printed halves of ABS bonded with acetone and diluted plastic.

Tools and materials you will need for this job:

• Acetone
• Cotton buds or brush

Machining process: When the size of the finished part exceeds the maximum size of the 3D printer's camera, the model often has to be broken into smaller parts and assembled later by gluing. For PLA and other materials, bonding can be done using the appropriate adhesive (selection of adhesive will depend on the plastic) . For ABS plastic, multi-piece assemblies can be glued with acetone. The mating surfaces should be lightly moistened with acetone and held firmly together or, if possible, clamped until most of the acetone has evaporated. At this point, the two parts of your model will stick together.

Helpful Hint: increasing the contact area with acetone will increase the strength of the joint. This can be done by including block connections in the design.

Pros


• Acetone will not discolor the surface of the part like other adhesives
• After drying, the seam will exhibit ABS properties, making further processing easier and more uniform

Cons

• The joint formed by this cold welding is not as strong as a solid impression
• Excessive use of acetone can lead to aggressive dissolution of the part and adversely affect the final result and tolerances
• 
  

Filling irregularities in ABS plastics

The gray ABS model had voids after sanding. The surface became smooth.

Tools and materials you will need:

1. Epoxy (for small voids only)
2. Automotive Putty (large voids and joints)
3. ABS plastic and acetone (for small voids only and for ABS parts only)

Process: After sanding or removing soluble backings, gaps often appear in the print. During printing, gaps are sometimes formed, and often this pattern is unavoidable. Small gaps and voids can be easily filled with epoxy and no further treatment is required. Large gaps, or gouges, left from attaching model assembly parts can be successfully filled with automotive putty, which will require additional sanding after drying.
The putty gives excellent results and can be easily sanded and painted after it has fully cured. The connection will be strong, and will not weaken the plastic. Conversely, autofiller parts tend to be stronger than native plastic.

Gaps in an ABS print can also be filled by making a slurry of ABS filament and acetone ( ABS juice or ABS juice ) that chemically reacts with the part and penetrates any surface voids. A ratio of 1 to 2 between ABS and acetone is recommended. This method will not significantly affect the cleanliness of the surface around the gap if properly applied.

Tip : If gaps are visible on FDM parts before sanding, fill them with epoxy and then sand once until dry. This will greatly reduce the overall time required to achieve a smooth surface.

Pros


1. Epoxies are easy to sand and prime, making the surface easy to paint
2. ABS juice will be the same color as your part, as long as you use the same filament by color and manufacturer. Therefore, there will be no discoloration of the surface

Cons

1. Auto putty or other polyester epoxy will dry opaque resulting in discolored spots on print
2. Requires additional sanding to achieve uniform coverage
3. Can affect overall print accuracy if sanding is too aggressive and too much material is removed

ABS and PLA polishing

Catalog of ABS plastics

Catalog of PLA plastics

Tools and supplies you will need

1. Polish
2. Sandpaper
3. Nonwoven wipe
4. Toothbrush
5. Microfibre cloth or polishing pad

Process: Plastic polish can be applied after sanding to give standard filaments such as ABS and PLA a glossy finish. After the part has been sanded to 1000 grit, wipe off any excess dust from the Non-woven » cloth, then clean it in a bath of warm water with a toothbrush.
Allow the piece to dry completely and buff it with a buffing pad, or by hand with a microfiber cloth and a jewelry polish designed specifically for plastic and synthetics that provides a long lasting shine.
Other plastic polishes, such as car headlight polishes, work on the same principle, but some may contain chemicals that can damage the original material.

Helpful Hint: For polishing small parts, attach the polishing pad to the variable speed drill (or other rotating tool such as a drill) . Bench grinders equipped with a polishing wheel can be used for larger, stronger prints, but don't polish too long in the same place. This can cause the plastic to melt due to friction.

Pros


• Polishing is applied without the use of any solvents that can deform the part and change the accuracy tolerances.
• When properly ground and polished, the part will give the impression of a mirror finish, imitating plastic injection molding
• Plastic polish and cleaner is very economical, making this method quite profitable for a quality finish

Cons

• The part must be carefully sanded before polishing if a mirror finish is required. This may affect tolerances
• Primer/paint may not adhere to surface after polishing and you will need additional products

Priming and painting 3D printed products

White PLA part spray painted gray

Tools and materials you will need:


• Non-woven cloth
• Toothbrush
• Sandpaper
• Aerosol Acrylic Primer
• Polishing agents
• Masking tape (only if using multiple colors)
• Gloves and petal mask

Process: after the part has been sanded properly (up to 500 grit sandpaper is required at this stage) , the print can be primed. The primer should be applied in two coats using an aerosol can.
An aerosol primer designed for painting models will provide an even coverage and be thin enough not to darken the part before painting.
A thick primer, such as one available at the hardware store, may stick together and require more sanding.
Apply the first coat in short, quick strokes at a distance of about 15 - 20 cm from the part to avoid the formation of a thick layer of primer. Let the primer dry and sand down any imperfections with 9 grit sandpaper.0013 500. Apply the final coat of primer with light, quick strokes.

Once the primer is complete, painting can begin. Painting can be done with acrylic paints and artist's brushes, but using an airbrush or spray can give a smoother surface.
Hardware store spray paint tends to be thicker and harder to control, so it's best to use paints made specifically for painting models.
The primed surface should be sanded and polished (sanding and polishing sticks used in nail salons are ideal for this application) and then cleaned with a non-woven cloth.
Paint over the model using very light layers; the first few layers will look translucent. Once the paint has formed an opaque coat of (usually after 2-4 coats) of , allow the model to dry for 30 minutes to allow the paint to set. Carefully polish the paint layer with nail sticks.

Multi-colour models can be painted with masking tape. Once all layers of paint are ready, remove the tape and buff the paint using polish paper. Polishing paper such as 3M or Zona can be purchased in a variety of grit sizes. You can buy it in a pack in many online stores. It will give the paint a shine that cannot be achieved in any other way.

Helpful Hint: Do not shake the can when using spray paint! The goal is to mix the pigment or primer, shaking the propellants will cause bubbles to form in the aerosol. Instead, rotate the jar for 2-3 minutes. The stirring ball should roll, not rattle.

Pros


• Professional results with attention to detail
• Excellent appearance of the final product, regardless of the material/color in which the object was originally printed

Cons

• Paint and primer will increase the volume of the model, which will change the tolerances and can cause problems if the part is part of the assembly
• Buying a high quality spray paint or airbrush is not cheap

Acetone baths for ABS products

Smoothed black model of a petal with a spherical surface made of ABS plastic after an acetone bath.

Tools and materials you will need:

1. Non-woven cloth
2. Sealed container
3. Thinner
4. Paper towels
5. Aluminum foil (or other solvent resistant material)
6. Face mask and chemical resistant gloves

Process: Line the chosen container with paper towels along the bottom and, if possible, up the sides. It is very important that the steam does not disturb the chamber itself. The chamber may be sealed.
It is recommended to use glass and metal containers.
Pour in enough solvent to dampen but not drown the paper towels. This will also help them stick to the side walls of the container.
Acetone is well known for its ability to smooth out ABS parts. For PLA, smoothing is possible with various solvents, they work well, but as a rule, with PLA, it is more difficult to get a smooth surface, unlike ABS.

IMPORTANT! When working with any solvent, please follow the safety regulations for the chemical and always follow the appropriate safety precautions !

A small "raft" of aluminum foil or other solvent-resistant material should be placed in the middle of a lined paper towel container.
Next, place your part on this raft (either side selected as the bottom on the raft) and close the lid of the container.
Steam polishing can vary in duration, so check the print periodically. Heat can be used to increase polishing speed, but care must be taken to prevent the buildup of potentially explosive fumes.

When removing the part from the chamber, try not to touch it at all, leaving it on the raft and removing it from the container. Any points of contact with the part will generate surface defects because the outer shell will be half dissolved. Allow parts to dry completely before use.

NOTE . Many aerosol and/or spray solvents are flammable/explosive and solvent vapors can be harmful to human health. Be especially careful when heating solvents and always work in a well ventilated area.

Pros


• Smooths out many small spots and reduces layer lines present in the print without any additional work
• Creates a very smooth "shell" around part
• A very fast method that can be implemented with improvised means

Cons

• Doesn't "heal" gaps or completely mask layer height
• The dithering process "dissolves" the outer shell of the print, and therefore this greatly affects the tolerances
• Negatively affects print strength due to changes in material properties

Chemical solvent baths

Tools and supplies you will need:

1. Solvent safe container
2. Thinner
3. Hook or small screw
4. Wire
5. Drying rod or rack
6. Face mask and chemical resistant gloves

Process: Make sure the container you are using is wide enough and deep enough to hold the part and solvent. Fill the container with the appropriate amount of solvent, taking care to minimize splashing. As with steam smoothing, acetone should be used to dip the ABS.
PLA is sufficiently resistant to solvents, so it may take several passes to achieve the desired result.

Prepare the part for dipping by screwing an eye hook or small screw into an inconspicuous surface of the imprint. Pass the wire through the eye of the hook or around the screw so you can lower your piece into the wire bath. If the wire is too thin, you won't be able to submerge the part in the solvent.

Once the part is prepared, quickly immerse the entire object in the solvent for no more than a few seconds using wire. Pull out the print and attach it to a wire over a dryer rod or rack to allow the solvent to completely evaporate from the surface. The part should be gently shaken after you remove it to facilitate drying and avoid solvent build-up in depressions on the surface.

Helpful Hint: If the part has an opaque whitish color after drying, it can be hung over a solvent bath for a while so that the evaporating vapors slightly dissolve the surface. This will restore the color of the print and provide a glossy outer layer.

Pros


• Print surface smoothes much faster than steam polishing
• Much less fumes than other solvent polishing methods and is safer

Cons

• Very aggressively smoothes the surface of the part, so the tolerances deviate greatly from the specified
• Immersion too long can lead to complete deformation of the part and a significant change in material properties

Using epoxy to finish prints

The part is sanded and coated with epoxy resin.

Tools and materials you will need:


1. Two-component epoxy (such as XTC-3D)
2. Foam applicator
3. Brushes
4. Mixing container
5. Sandpaper 1000 grit or higher

Process : After the print has been sanded (sanding first will give better end results) , completely clean it with a non-woven cloth.
Mix the correct ratio of resin and hardener as directed in the resin instructions. Make no mistake about the proportions. Epoxies are exothermic when mixed, so glass containers and containers composed of low melting point materials should be avoided.
Containers specifically designed for mixing epoxy resins are recommended. The wrong ratio will lengthen the drying time and the epoxy may never be able to fully cure, resulting in a disastrous and sticky part.

Mix resin and hardener thoroughly according to instructions. Stir gently to minimize air bubbles. The faster the epoxy dries, the better. Most epoxies have a working dry time of only 10-15 minutes, so do your post-processing in the proper order.

Apply the first coat of epoxy using a foam applicator and try to minimize resin buildup on recessed surfaces or other details of the print. Once your part is sufficiently covered with resin, allow it to fully cure according to the manufacturer's instructions. One coat may be enough to smooth the detail, but for optimum appearance, the print should be lightly sanded with fine sandpaper (1 000 grit or finer) . Remove dust with a non-woven cloth and apply a second coat of epoxy in the same manner.

Pros


• A very thin coat of epoxy will not significantly affect part tolerances (unless the part has been sanded first)
• Resin provides an outer protective sheath around part

Cons

• The layer lines will still be visible, they are under the "smooth" shell
• Applying too much epoxy can cause surface dripping and over-smoothing of print details


Tools and supplies you will need:

• Electroplating solution. It can be prepared by mixing a metal salt with acid and water, but if the proportions are not accurate, it will be difficult to get a professional result. Buying a ready-made solution guarantees that there are no problems with plating.
• Sacrificial anode. The anode material must match the metal of the plating solution, so if copper sulfate is used in the solution, then a copper anode should be used. You can use any item made of metal plating (copper wire, for example), or you can purchase a thin strip of metal plating that is made specifically for electroplating.
• Conductive paint or acetone and graphite. The print surface must be conductive for coating, which can be achieved with conductive paint or a 1:1 solution of graphite and acetone. Conductive ink will work on any printed material, but a solution of acetone and graphite will only work on ABS.
• Power Rectifier - A battery can be used instead of a rectifier, but a battery is not as efficient and will not produce results as quickly and consistently as a rectifier. A rectifier is also a safer option. It can simply be turned off to stop the current flow during electroplating.
• Conductive screw or eyelet
• Non-conductive vessel
• Lead set
• Non-conductive gloves and goggles.

Electrophoresis solutions are acids and can cause eye damage if splashed, so appropriate goggles are required. Also, these solutions can irritate the skin and conduct a charge when used. Therefore, non-conductive gloves should always be used.

Process: metal plating can be electroplated at home or in a professional workshop. Proper plating requires a deep knowledge of materials, and what you can do at home has certain limitations compared to what can be done in a professional workshop.
For a better finish and a wider range of plating options, including chrome plating, a workshop would be the best option. For clarity, the copper plating process will be described below.

At home, galvanization can be done using copper or nickel plate. It is imperative that the surface of the print to be processed is as smooth as possible before coating; any unevenness and visible lines of the layers will start to stand out after coating.
Prepare a cleaned and sanded print. By coating the plastic with a thin layer of high quality conductive paint or a solution of acetone and graphite (if made of ABS) . Allow the conductive coating to dry completely and sand if necessary to ensure a smooth finish. It is extremely important to minimize contact with the print or wear gloves as the sebum on your fingers will interfere with the coating process.

Insert a screw or hook with an eye into an inconspicuous surface of the part, similar to dipping in solvent.
Attach to one of the rectifier leads. This will serve as the cathode. The connection must be made to the negative terminal of the rectifier. Connect the copper anode to the positive terminal of the rectifier using the second power wire and fill the container with enough electroplating solution so that the imprint and the copper anode are completely hidden. Turn on the power rectifier. After the rectifier is turned on, make sure that the part does not touch the anode in any way.

IMPORTANT! Be very careful at this stage. After the part is lowered into the bath and the system is energized, any contact with the solution, anode or cathode may result in personal injury !

Set the power supply rectifier to 1-3 volts. After that, the metallization process will begin until the part is completely covered with metal. Voltage may be increased to reduce coating time, but should not exceed 5 volts. Simply turn off the straightener and remove the print after a satisfactory finish has been applied. Dry the print with microfiber towels. Coat the part with a special varnish for metal after drying. This will protect it from corrosion.

Pros


• The metal shell increases the strength of the plastic part, which greatly expands the possibilities of its application and use
• The outer metal coating is very thin so if properly applied, tolerances of 9 can be held tightly0048
• Creates a beautiful surface that, if done correctly, will not look like a 3D printed object

Cons

• Typically very expensive to do this at a professional level and home plating requires a decent amount of professional processing equipment
• Electroplating at home can cause electric shock if not followed

Well, that's all we have! We hope this article was useful for you!

Order 3D printer or FDM consumables , you can

• Email: Sales@3dtool.

  ---

  Learn more

  • 
    3D printer moon base
  • 
    Kijiji 3d printer
  • 
    3D pyramid print out
  • 
    Wohlers report 3d printing
  • 
    How to choose 3d printers
  • 
    3D printer glass bed warped
  • 
    Best small 3d printer
  • 
    3D print helmets
  • 
    3D welding printer
  • 
    3D implant printing
  • 
    Personal 3d scanners