Gaps in 3d print

3D Print Gaps and Holes: How To Fix EVERY Cause

Gaps and holes in 3D printing cause major problems: they’re ugly to look at, ruin your model, and make useable parts unstable and even brittle.

There are a few different kinds of gaps and holes you may find when 3D printing. Some are between lines, while others may consistently occur within or between certain layers. In any case, they are a very frustrating problem with a few possible causes.

In this article we’re going to look at a few of these causes, how to recognize them, and the best way to fix them.

Table Of Contents

Gaps and Holes in 3D Prints: Reasons and Fixes
Why Am I Getting Gaps and Holes in My 3D Prints?
3D Printing Gaps and Holes: Types and How to Fix Them
- First Layer Gaps
- Missing or Incomplete Parts
- Holes in Your Print
- Top Layer Gaps
- Holes and Gaps in Floor Corners
- Gaps Between Thin Walls

Gaps and Holes in 3D Prints: Reasons and Fixes

First Layer Gaps
Missing or Incomplete Parts
Holes in Your Print
Top Layer Gaps
Holes and Gaps in Floor Corners
Gaps Between Thin Walls

Why Am I Getting Gaps and Holes in My 3D Prints?

While the good news about gaps and holes is that they’re very easy to catch early, the bad news is that there are quite a few reasons they could be happening.

Likely causes for gaps and holes in your 3D prints are as follows:

Under-extrusion – Your printer isn’t extruding enough filament for the model, leaving unwanted holes where not enough extrusion occurred.
Temperature Changes – 3D printer filament reacts to changing temperatures. Too hot and the filament won’t set properly, leaving gaps. Too cold and it’ll set too quickly. Both leave unwanted gaps and misshapen outlines. Sudden changes in temperature are also an issue, so try to keep the printing environment consistent.
Fast Printing Speed – A fast printing speed can lead to under-extrusion, which leaves gaps in 3D prints. Lowering your printing speed will help ensure the right amount of filament goes to the right place.
Clogged Nozzle – A clogged or otherwise unclean nozzle won’t extrude filament properly, and will occasionally seem to randomly distribute it, especially between layers. Maintaining your nozzle or replacing damaged ones will help you avoid this issue.
Slow Feed Rate – A slow feed rate prevents enough filament from passing through your extruder to accurately print your model, causing gaps where there simply wasn’t enough filament to print.

Quite often, errors or misjudgments in your settings lead to holes and gaps in your prints, all of which we’ll look at below.

Exactly where on your print these gaps and holes form will be the telltale sign for the cause. Here we’ll look at how to recognize the root cause of the problem and how to fix them.Source: Reddit

3D Printing Gaps and Holes: Types and How to Fix Them

The first step in fixing these gaps and holes is identifying what kind of problem it is. In many cases, you may find the fix is simple if your gaps fall into one of these categories.

Before trying some of the more complex fixes, we recommend you first look at one of these very common causes of 3D printer gaps and holes.

First Layer Gaps

If you find the bottom of your print has consistently sized gaps, almost like they were designed to deliberately resemble a mesh, then the problem is likely with your initial layers. You’ll notice these gaps between the infill and outlines.

This issue can carry on through the print and be difficult to spot until it’s too late, wasting a lot of filament.Source: Reddit

This problem has two common causes, the first is an incorrect nozzle height. If your nozzle isn’t close enough to the build plate, then the first layer, normally forming the base of the print, will have gaps between extrusion lines.

The second common cause is temporary under-extrusion, which itself has quite a few causes including a clogged extruder or an insufficient flow rate.

How to Fix

If your extruder is clogged or the speed is set too high, then not enough filament will be extruded to form a solid layer. Increasing your feed rate or decreasing the print speed should help with this.

Any settings that increase extrusion will help alleviate this problem, as will increasing overlaps to ensure enough filament is extruded to form a smooth, solid base.

Read more: every 3D printing fix for first layer issues

Missing or Incomplete PartsSource: Reddit

If you find in places in your model that there’s less filament than there should be, or even none at all, then the problem is likely under-extrusion caused by an offset z-calibration.

Having your nozzle too close to your build surface will cause unwanted retraction, which will clog your nozzle and prevent enough filament from coming out.

How to Fix

To fix this problem, simply recalibrate your extruder height so it’s not too close to the build surface, and clean the nozzle to be sure.

Holes in Your Print

If you’re finding random holes and gaps throughout your print, then it could be a problem with the filament rather than the printer.

In a lot of cases, poor bed adhesion will cause holes and gaps between layers to form due to the model’s low stability.

Source: Reddit

How to Fix

Improving bed adhesion with adhesives or heating the print bed can help reduce this problem, though it could also be caused by a too high z-calibration. Increasing bed adhesion and readjusting your nozzle height are good fixes.

Additionally, if you’ve left your filament out in the open air for a long time, it may have absorbed moisture from the air over time and become “wet” and brittle. This bubbliness affects print quality and can lead to small imperfections and gaps.

You can fix this by purchasing a filament dryer, or storing your filament in airtight storage when not printing.

Top Layer GapsSource: Reddit

Gaps in the top layer of your print is called ‘pillowing’, and has a few causes and solutions. The leading cause is insufficient cooling that prevents your filament to properly set on the top layer.

Pillowing can also be caused by an insufficient layer height. If you’re using a height setting greater than the standard 0.1mm, then you may find pillowing occurs quite often.

How to Fix

Increasing the strength of your cooling fan will help top layers set as they’re supposed to, creating the smooth surface most prints need to look good.

If you find it’s not a problem with your cooling, then you may find gradually lowering your layer height greatly helps solve the pillowing issue. If you need the layer height set to higher than recommended, adding additional layers to strengthen the print works wonders.

Read more: finding the best layer height for your 3D prints

Holes and Gaps in Floor Corners

Finding holes in the base corners of your model is incredibly frustrating as it looks like the printer stops short of where it’s supposed to print. This not only makes your model less stable while printing, it looks pretty bad too.

Unfortunately, this is one of the most complex problems with holes in 3D prints, as there are quite a few causes and solutions to the problem, so it may take some trial and error to nail down the cause and understand how to fix it.Source: Reddit

Causes and How to Fix Them

Under-extrusion – A common issue that you can fix by simply increasing the feed rate.
Insufficient Top Layers – Having too few top layers increases the likelihood of holes and gaps. Increasing these top layers and ensuring they’re at least 1mm thick will help.
Printing Too Hot – If your nozzle or bed temperatures are too hot then the filament won’t cool or settle fast enough. Be sure to only use the temperatures recommended by your manufacturer and decrease them if you find the filament isn’t setting as quickly as you need it to.
Insufficient Cooling – Another problem with temperature. If your cooling system isn’t high enough for the filament you’re using, the filament will take too long to set. Increasing the strength of your cooling fan will help solve this issue.
Insufficient Infill – If your infill percentage is too low then you’ll find gaps and holes appearing quite frequently. Increasing this percentage will help decrease the likelihood of these gaps and strengthen your model.
Overlap Too Small – An infill overlap is a slicer’s setting to go slightly over the print wall to reinforce it. If this overlap is too small, there will be weaknesses in your print. Increasing this overlap gradually and noting the results will help you find the sweet spot.
Not Enough Outlines/Perimeters – Another support measure that you would do well to increase gradually and note any improvement.
Too Much Retraction – Overly frequent retraction will decrease filament extrusion, which in turn leads to layer gaps and unwanted holes as not enough material will come out. Lowering retraction settings will help keep your model’s surface smooth and decrease the chances of clogging and other extruder issues.

The holes were caused by too much retraction. Source: Reddit

Gaps Between Thin Walls

Gaps between thinner walls of your model may appear if their width isn’t set to a multiple of the nozzle width. This empty space won’t be taken into account, and the gaps between the walls will be your printer’s compensation for it.

If you’re printing a 0.9mm thick wall with a 0.4mm nozzle, for example, then you’ll have a remaining gap of 0.1mm that the machine simply isn’t capable of filling.

Source: Reddit

How to Fix

Naturally, the easiest fix for these wall gaps is to simply ensure the wall width is a multiple of your nozzle width. Adjusting the line width or even increasing flow rate to promote over-extruding. While not precise, this method will help the filament flow into gaps and make them sturdier.

If the wall width is not negotiable, then you can try getting a thinner nozzle. While the standard size is 0.4mm, you can attach different diameters to help handle different wall widths.

Related posts:

Retraction Settings: How to Stop Ender 3 Stringing
DIY Dry Box Projects To Keep Your Filament Dry
Using 3D Printer Cleaning Filament The Right Way

9 Ways How to Fix Holes & Gaps in Top Layers of 3D Prints – 3D Printerly

Having gaps in the top layers of your 3D prints aren’t ideal in any circumstance, but there are solutions which you can try to solve this problem.

The best way to fix gaps in your top layers is to increase the number of top layers in your slicer settings, increase infill percentage, use a denser infill pattern, or look towards fixing under extrusion issues. Sometimes using a default slicer profile works perfectly to fix gaps in top layers.

This article will attempt to guide you through fixing this problem, so keep reading for a detailed solution.

Why Do I Have Holes & Gaps in the Top Layers of my Prints?

Gaps in prints can be a result of several errors related to the printer or the print bed. To identify the origin of the main issue you should consider overviewing some of the main parts of the 3D printer.

Below we have mentioned a few reasons which might be a reason for gaps in your 3D prints as well.

Reasons for gaps in 3D prints may include:

Adjusting number of top layers
Increase infill density
Under-extrusion, over-extrusion and extruder skipping
Fast or slow printing speed
Filament quality and diameter
Mechanical issues with a 3D printer
Clogged or worn out nozzle
Unsteady surface
Unexpected or immediate temperature changes

How to Fix Gaps in the Top Layers of my 3D Prints?

The video explains one side of having gaps in top layers, which is also known as pillowing.

To improve your printer’s performance and the output’s quality, there are several ways you can practice to do so.

Sometimes just using a default profile for your 3D printer works a treat, so definitely try that beforehand. You can also find custom profiles that other people have created online.

Now let’s get into the other solutions that have worked for other 3D printer users.

1. Adjusting Number of Top Layers

This is one effective method of getting rid of gaps in print layers. The solid layer’s extrusions tend to drop and drool in the air pocket because of your partially hollow infill.

The fix is simply changing a setting in your slicer software:

Try adding more top solid layers in your slicer
A good rule is to go by is to have at least 0.5mm of top layers in your 3D prints.
If you have a layer height of 0.1mm, then you should try to have at least 5 top layers to satisfy this guideline
Another example would be if you have a layer height of 0.3mm, then use 2 top layers which would be 0.6mm and satisfy the 0.5mm rule.

This is probably the easiest fix in the problem of holes or gaps in your 3D prints since it’s a simple setting change, and it’s very effective in tackling this problem.

If you can see infill through your top layer, then this should help significantly.

2. Increase Infill Density

Another common reason behind having holes and gaps in your 3D prints is using an infill percentage which is too low.

The reason this happens is that your infill kind of acts as supports for the higher parts of your 3D prints.

A low infill percentage would mean less support, or foundation for your material to adhere to, so it can lead to melted plastic drooping which causes those holes or gaps.

The simple fix here would be to increase your infill percentage for a better foundation on your 3D prints
If you use an infill density of around 20%, I’d try out 35-40% and see how things work out.
A setting in Cura called “Gradual Infill Steps” allows you to enable a low infill density at the bottom of your print, while increasing it for the top of the print. Each step you use means that the infill will be halved, so 40% infill with 2 steps goes from at the top 40% to 20% to 10% at the bottom.

3. Under-Extrusion and Extruder Skipping

If you are still experiencing holes or 3D printing gaps between layers or in your top layers, then you probably have under-extrusion issues, which can be caused by a few different issues.

Extrusion issues may include under-extrusion or your extruder clicking which effects the printing badly, and signals some weakness in your extrusion system.

When the amount of filament that your 3D printer thinks is going to be extruded is actually less, this under-extrusion can easily result in missing layers, small layers, gaps within your 3D print, as well as little dots or holes between your layers.

The most common fixes for under-extrusion are:

Increase printing temperature
Clean nozzle to clear any jams
Check that your nozzle isn’t worn out from several hours of 3D printing
Use better quality filament with good tolerances
Make sure your filament diameter in slicer matches actual diameter
Check flow rate and increase your extrusion multiplier (2. 5% increments)
Check if the extruder motor is working properly and is provided with enough power or not.
Adjust and optimize layer heights for your stepper motor, also called ‘Magic Numbers‘

Check out my article on How to Fix 3D Printer Under-Extrusion – Not Extruding Enough.

Other fixes that could help out in this instance are to make sure your filament feed and extrusion path is smooth and clear. Sometimes having a low quality hotend or nozzle just doesn’t do the best job at melting the filament adequately.

When you upgrade and replace your nozzle, the changes that you can see in 3D print quality can be quite significant, which many people have attested to.

I would also implement Capricorn PTFE tubing for a smoother filament feed into your nozzle.

4. Adjust Printing Speed to be Faster or Slower

Gaps can also occur if your print speed is too high. Due to this, your printer might find it hard to extrude filament in less time.

If your 3D printer is extruding and accelerating at the same time, it can extrude thinner layers, then as it decelerates, extruder normal layers.

To fix this issue, do try the following:

Adjust speed by increasing or decreasing the speed by 10mm/s, which can be done specifically just for top layers.
Check print speed setting for different factors like walls or infill etc.
Check for acceleration settings along with the jerk settings to avoid vibration, then decrease these also
50mm/s is considered a normal speed for your 3D printer

It allows for more cooling which lets your filament harden to form a better foundation for the next layer. You can also print a fan duct to direct cool air straight to your 3D prints.

Check out my article What is the Best Print Speed for 3D Printing? Perfect Settings.

5. Check Filament Quality and Diameter

Incorrect filament diameter can cause printing complications bringing gaps in layers. Ensure your slicer has the ideal filament diameter.

Another reliable method of ensuring this is by measuring the diameter yourself with the help of calipers that you have the correct diameter specified in the software. The most commonly found diameters are 1.75mm and 2.85mm.

The stainless-steel Kynup Digital Calipers is one of the highest rated calipers on Amazon, and for good reason. They are very accurate, up to an accuracy of 0.01mm and very user-friendly.

To keep your filament perfect for a long time, read the guide properly.
Get a filament from the best manufacturers to avoid headaches of the future.

6. Correct Mechanical Issues with the 3D printer

When it comes to machines, small or big issues may arise. However, the thing is to be aware of how to fix them. Your 3D printer may experience mechanical issues that can bring gaps in the printing. To fix it, try out the following things:

Machine oiling is necessary for smoother movements and general maintenance
Check if all parts are working properly or not
Make sure screws are not loose
Z-axis threaded rod should be placed accurately
The print bed should be stable
Check printer machine connections
The nozzle should be tightened correctly
Avoid using floating feet

7.

Fix or Replace Clogged/Worn Out Nozzle

The clogged and contaminated nozzle can also significantly bring gaps in 3D Printing. So, check your nozzle and if need be, clean it for better print results.

If the nozzle of your printer is worn out, then purchase nozzle from a trusted manufacturer
Keep cleaning nozzle with proper instructions as mentioned in the guide.

8. Put Your 3D Printer on Steady Surface

An unstable or vibrating surface cannot bring the perfect print out. This surely can bring gaps in printing if the machine vibrates or is likely to get unstable because of its vibrating surface.

Fix this issue by placing the printing machine at a smooth and stable place.

9. Unexpected or Immediate Temperature Changes

Temperature fluctuations can be a great reason for your print to get gaps while printing. This is the most important issue which should be fixed immediately because it decides the flow of plastic as well.

Use a brass nozzle as it works best when it comes to thermal conductivity
Check if the PID controller is tuned or not
Keep checking that temperature should not fluctuate immediately

Check out this video by CHEP for some more helpful tips to fix gaps in your prints.

Conclusion

Gaps between the top layers of 3D print can be a result of various printer’s shortcomings we have mentioned above. There can be more reasons for these gaps, but we have mentioned the major one.

If you figure out the likely root cause, it’ll be easier to solve the error. The main thing is to read the guide thoroughly when you are going to use any printing machine if you want to bring perfection to your work.

The 20 Most Common 3D Printing Problems (Part 1)

Good afternoon dear 3D Today community! I would like to present you a translation of the article Troubleshooting Guide to 20 Common 3D Printing Problems, which will be divided into 2 parts.

Everyone has problems with printing. We had enough of them to analyze and find solutions for the 20 most common 3D printing problems. In this article, we share our experience and hope that now you do not have to spend extra time diagnosing and solving problems that have arisen. nine0003

If you cannot determine what the problem is, compare it with the description.

3D Printing Issue #1: Warp - First Layer Peeling

Issue Description

The print is lifting up on the base of the model and does not stick to the platform. This problem can also cause horizontal cracks in the top sections of the printout.

Why did the problem occur?

Deformation of the print base is due to the nature of the plastic. ABS and PLA plastic cools very quickly and this is what can cause the first layer to come off. nine0003

Solve 3D printing problem: Printout warped

1. Use heated bed. The easiest solution to this problem is to use a heatbed and set the temperature just below the melting temperature of the plastic. If you set the temperature correctly, the first layer will not come off the platform. The printer bed temperature is often set automatically by the slicer. The recommended temperature for your plastic is listed on the side of the package or reel. nine0003

2. Use adhesive . If your printout is lifting around the edges, apply a thin layer of glue (or hairspray) to the platform to increase adhesion.

3. Try another platform. Change the platform to a platform with more adhesion. Manufacturers like Lulzbot use a PEI (Polyetherimide) coating that provides a good grip even without the use of glue. XYZPrinting Some printers include a few pieces of thermal tape for the liner. This is a good solution for cool platforms. Zortrax 3D choose a different solution - a perforated backing to which the printout adheres, thereby relieving the user of the problem of deformation at the base. nine0003

4. Calibrate the platform. Improper platform calibration can also affect the print quality of the first layer. Check the level of the platform and correct the height if necessary.

5. Increase contact between printout and platform. Often this problem also occurs due to insufficient contact between the model and the substrate. It can be easily corrected using the printer software by adding a skirt or backing.

6. Optimize temperature settings. nine0010 If none of the methods worked, check the advanced settings of the printer software and the printer itself. Try increasing the platform temperature by 5 degrees.

7. Pay attention to the fan settings. As a general rule, the fans should switch to full power as soon as the print reaches a height of 0.5 millimeters, but you can increase the height to 0.75 millimeters to allow the layers to cool naturally.

8. Even if your printer has a heated bed, it is recommended that you use glue (or varnish) and constantly adjust the bed level. nine0003
3D Print Warping: Checklist to Avoid Problems

Use Heated Platform

Use Glue (Varnish) for More Adhesion

Instead of Glass Platform, Use Kapton/Heat Tape/Adhesive/Varnish

Calibrate Platform or substrate

Adjust temperature and fan settings

3D printing issue #2: First layer misalignment (Elephant's foot)

Problem description

The base of the model is slightly off.

Why did the problem occur?

Typically, the base of the model shifts due to the weight of the print, which puts pressure on the first layer when the lower layers have not yet had time to cool. Often happens with heated bed printers.

3D Printing Solution: First Layer Offset

1. Correct balance. To get rid of the problem of first layer displacement, the printed models must be cooled enough to support the weight of the entire structure. Here you should be careful: excessive hypothermia can lead to deformation of the first layer. Finding a balance is hard enough. Start by lowering the platform temperature 5 degrees (but no more than 20 degrees below the recommended temperature). If Bottom / Top Thickness is set to 0.6 millimeters, turn on the fan immediately at a height slightly lower. nine0003
2. Platform level. Most 3D printing problems are related to the wrong platform level. For each printer, there is a specific approach for platform level calibration. Check the manufacturer's recommendations to determine what you need. Print out a calibration cube and look at the quality of the plastic feed. The calibration cube will help you determine if the plastic has been laid flat, and if the nozzle is too close to the platform and scrapes the melted plastic, or too high causing the plastic to bubble. nine0003
3. Raise the nozzle. Raising the nozzle a little can often help. The main thing is not to raise it too high.

4. Smoothen the corners of the model. If all else fails, try chamfering the corners of the model base. Of course, this is only possible if you created the model yourself or if you have access to the source file. Start with 5mm and 45º bevel and experiment to get the best result.

First Layer Offset in 3D Printing: Checklist to Avoid Problems

Balance Platform Temperature and Fan Speed

Raise Printer Platform

Check Floor Height

Make model corners smoother
: Other problems with the first layer

Description of the problem

The first layer does not look right, some fragments are missing. There are unnecessary lines at the bottom. nine0003
Why did the problem occur?

Such 3D printing problems usually indicate that the platform level has not been set correctly. If the nozzle is too far from the platform, unnecessary lines often appear at the bottom of the printout or the first layer does not stick. If the nozzle is too close to the platform, this can cause formation bubbling.

Also note that the platform must be clean. Fingerprints on the platform may cause the first layer to not adhere to the platform. nine0144

3D printing problem solution: Other first layer problems

1. Set the platform level. Each printer has its own platform level configuration process. For example, the latest Lulzbots use auto-calibration, while Ultimaker offers step-by-step manual calibration. But to set up the Prusa i3 platform level, you will need to spend a lot of time studying the issue.

2. Set nozzle height. nine0010 If the nozzle is too high, the plastic will not stick to the platform, if too low, the nozzle will scrape the printout.

3. Clean the platform. Be sure to clean the printer platform regularly, especially if you are using adhesive. Fingerprints, dust and adhesive residue affect how well the model sticks to the platform.

4. Use glue (varnish). Apply a thin layer of adhesive to the platform to increase the adhesion of the model to the platform. Remember to clean the platform regularly as excess glue can cause the opposite effect. nine0003
5. Use textured underlay for non-heated printer platforms.

Other problems with 3D seal: Cheklist to avoid problems

Check the level of platform

Check the height of the nozzle

Clean the platform

Use the adhesive 4: Offset layers in model

Problem Description

Layers shift in the middle of the printout.

The printer straps are not tight enough. The top plate is not attached and moves independently of the bottom plate. One of the rods in the Z-axis is not perfectly aligned

3D printing solution: Layers misalignment in the model

1. Check the belts. First of all, check how tight the straps are: they shouldn't hang loose, but they shouldn't be too tight either. If you pull on the straps, you should feel a slight resistance. If you feel that the top strap is tighter than the bottom strap, this is a sure sign that they are not tight enough. nine0003
2. Check the cover. Check the cover, rods and other parts on top of the printer (if you have coreXY). Make sure all parts are properly fastened.

3. Check the z-axis screws. Many printer manufacturers use threaded studs more often than trapezoid screws, and while both do the job, the studs tend to bend over time. No need to disassemble the printer to check if the rods are straight. Simply use software such as Printrun to move the print head up and down. If one of the Z axis bars is bent, you will definitely notice it. Unfortunately, it is almost impossible to straighten a bent stud, but on the other hand, this is a great reason to replace old threaded rods with trapezoidal screws. nine0003
Supreme displacement: Checklist

Check belts tension

Check if the upper cover is moving

Evil that the stilettos of the zis are even

Problem with 3D seal #5: missing layers
description problems

Gaps in the model appear due to the fact that some layers are missing (partially or completely).

The printer was unable to produce the required amount of plastic to print the missing layers. In 3D printing, this problem is also known as under-extruding. The essence of the problem may lie in the plastic itself (for example, a different diameter of the material), in the coil, in the feed mechanism (extruder) or in a clogged nozzle. nine0003
Friction can cause plastic to get stuck. It could also be that the z-axis screws (studs) are not properly aligned with the linear bearings.

There may also be a problem with the screws (studs) in the Z axis and with the bearings themselves.

3D Printing Solution: Missing Layers

1. Mechanical Check . If suddenly you find missing layers in the print - it's time to take a little care of your printer. Start by checking the screws (studs) and make sure they are firmly attached to the bearings or clamps. nine0003
2. Check rod alignment. Check that all screws (studs) are aligned and not misaligned. Turn off the power and gently move the print head along the X and Y axes. If there is any resistance, then there is some problem. It is easy enough to understand what exactly the problem lies in - a slightly bent rod or bearings.

3. Worn bearings. Worn bearings make noise. You may also feel the rattle of the print head, while the printer vibrates slightly. In this case, turn off the power and move the print head along the X and Y axes to find out where the worn bearing is. nine0003
4. Check the oil. Remember to regularly lubricate the moving parts of the printer. Sewing machine oil is ideal for lubrication - you can buy it at any hardware store at an affordable price. Before applying oil, make sure the studs (screws) are clean. If the studs(screws) have dirt or print material residue, clean them.

Then connect to the printer via a program (eg Pronterface) to move the print head in the X and Y axes and check that the studs are evenly lubricated. If you apply a little more oil, just wipe off the excess. nine0003
5. Underextruded . The last cause of the problem may be insufficient extrusion. There can be many solutions to this problem, and all of them are described in Section 9.

Checklist

Check the printer mechanism to make sure the moving parts are tight.

Recheck printer design and alignment

Check for worn bearings and bent pins

Use some oil to lubricate parts

3D printing issue #6: Cracks in tall objects

Problem description

Cracks on the sides of the model, most commonly in tall models.

The problem can occur unexpectedly, and most often occurs in large printers, especially if you do not monitor their work.

The material cools faster on the upper layers, because the heat from the platform does not reach the required height. Because of this, the adhesion of the upper layers is lower.

3D Printing Solution: Cracks in Tall Objects

1. Extruder Temperature . Start by increasing the extruder temperature - 5-10ºC is best. On the side of the plastic box you will find the highest temperature for plastic, try not to raise the temperature to this value.

2. Fan direction and speed . Double check your fans and make sure they are pointed at the model. If the direction is correct, reduce their speed. nine0003
Checklist

Check the maximum possible temperature of the extruder and increase the current temperature by 10ºC in one attempt.

Check the direction and speed of the cooling fans.

3D Printing Issue #7: Holes in the top layer

Description of the issue

Holes and gaps in the top surface of the printout.

The two most common causes of this problem are improper top coat cooling and top coat not thick enough. nine0003
Solution to 3D printing problem: Holes on the top layer

1. Thread (filament) diameter . Often the problem happens with plastic with a diameter of 1.75 mm. Holes in the top layer are a problem with all 3D printers, but they happen more often with printers that use 1.75mm filament than with printers that print with filament larger than 2.85mm.

2. Check the location of the fan . Cooling can cause this problem, so check the fans first. When the printer starts printing, the fans are at their lowest speed or off. After printing the first layer, the fans start to work. Check if they start working and also check if they continue working when printing is finished. If all is well, double-check if the direction of the fan is set correctly - they should blow over the model. nine0003
3. Set fan speed in G-Code. Another cooling issue is related to excessive plastic in the top layer. It must cool quickly so as not to fall between the already printed supporting elements. The fan speed can be adjusted with G-Code ( is usually G-Code for Fan On is M106 and M107 Fan Off ). Also set the fan speed to maximum for the upper layers.

For example, for a 1cm x 1cm cube, the height of the top layer would be 0.1mm. In this case, when generating a G-code through CURA for Prusa i3, the G-code indicates that the number of layers for the cube is 100. Considering that we specified heights of 0.6 mm for the top and bottom layers, it is worth editing the value to LAYER: 94

4. Increase the thickness of the top layer . One of the simplest solutions to the problem is to increase the thickness of the top layer. In most applications, you will be able to adjust the thickness using the ‘Bottom / Top Thickness setting’ advanced settings. You need to increase the thickness of the top and bottom layers up to 6 times the other layers and up to 8 times for smaller nozzles and plastics. If the layer height is 0.1mm, then the height of the top and bottom layers should be 0.6mm. If there are still holes and bald spots in the top layer, increase the thickness to 0.8mm. nine0003
Cheklist:

Use a larger diameter

Mrive that the direction and speed of the fans are correct

manually set the speed of fans

increase the thickness of the upper layer

9000 problem with 3D sequences #8: yachs, pautins

Description of the problem

Cobwebs or hairs appear between model elements when printing.

When the printer head moves across an open surface (without extrusion), i.e. from one object to another, the plastic flows out of the nozzle. nine0003
3D printing solution: Hairs, webs

1. Turn on retract . Retraction is an important factor for the quality of the finished model and can be enabled in the slicer. It functions quite simply and works by pulling the filament back into the nozzle before the head starts to move. The bottom line is that it prevents plastic from flowing out of the nozzle, which creates a "spider web" between objects.

2. Retraction activation in settings . Most apps like Cura offer pull activation in settings and this is set by default. However, if you want more options, you can customize them further. For example, you can set the minimum head path before activating retraction.

3. Minimum distance (mm) . If retraction is not working correctly, the easiest way to fix this is to reduce the minimum distance. Reduce it by 0.5mm until hairiness disappears. Activate retraction (retract) to increase the speed of printing. nine0003
4. Just cut them off. Not the most sophisticated solution, but it has the right to life. Carefully cut the web.

Cheklist:

Turn on pulling

Set up the minimum distance before pulling

Cut with a scalpel

Problem with 3D extruding
description of the problem. Description the extruder cannot extrude enough material (or cannot do it fast enough). This leads to the fact that the layers are too thin, unwanted bald spots appear in the layers or the layers are completely absent). nine0003
This problem has several causes. First of all, the thread diameter may not match the diameter set in the slicer. Also, the amount of extruded material may be lower due to incorrectly configured firmware. Another problem is that the nozzle can become clogged and this will cause under extrusion.

3D Printing Solution: Underextruding

1. Check filament diameter . Start with the simplest solution - check the filament diameter settings in your slicer. If you are not sure about the filament diameter and the recommended temperature, check the information on the packaging. nine0003
2. Measure thread . If you still can't get the desired result and filament separation remains a problem, use a caliper to check the filament diameter. After measurement, adjust the settings of the slicing software. ( author's note - if you have a bowden hotend, then you need to unscrew the fitting from the hotend, enter the command (for example, in Pronterface) M302 : Allow cold extrudes and extrude a meter of plastic. If more or less is extruded, then you have an incorrect number steps per mm for the extruder If you have a direct hotend, then you need to unscrew the nozzle ( the nozzle can only be unscrewed when it is hot! ). It is also worth noting that even with the correctly set steps per mm value, when retracting, the distance traveled will be less than when extruding. This is because more resistance is experienced when retracting )

3. Check print head . After starting printing, most printers lift the print head off the model base. Check if the nozzle is clean.

4. Set the extrusion factor to . If there is no difference between the actual extrusion diameter and the software settings, check the extrusion multiplier settings (or flow rate or flow compensation), they may be too low. Each slicing application solves the problem differently, but try increasing the ratio by 5% and restarting the print process.

5. Open the Edit Process Settings window in Simplify3D and go to the Extruder tab - the extrusion factor should be set to 1.0 which corresponds to 100%. Open the Material tab in Cura and increase the Flow settings (you may need to enable Flow in the Preferences window). nine0003
Cheklist:

Check the diameter of the Philiment

Use the caliper to double -check the diameter of the Philament

Check whether

EXTRICATION CLEADICTION by 5%

Problem Sems

Description of the problem

Excessive extrusion means that the printer is supplying more material than needed. This affects the fact that the printout has excess filament. nine0003
Solution to 3D printing problem: Overextruding

This problem is usually caused by the slicer's extrusion or flow ratio being too high.

1. Extrusion ratio . Open the slicer and check that you have selected the correct extrusion ratio.

2. Flow settings. If everything is correct with the extrusion ratio, reduce the Flow parameter in your printer software settings. nine0003
Checklist :

Check if the extrusion factor is set correctly

Reduce the flow settings of the filament

We are waiting for your comments on the translation.

Happy New Year everyone!

Problems, defects, 3D printing errors and solutions

Often during the operation of a 3D printer, problems may arise due to which defects appear on the finished model. Or instead of a neat product, plastic noodles suddenly appear on the table. nine0003
In fact, the causes of defects can be conditionally divided into 2 types - these are physical and software.

Physical ones are those that arise due to problems with the mechanics or any other causes that can be eliminated physically. These include problems with printer mechanisms (belt tension, backlash), clogged or deformed nozzle, incorrect table geometry, etc.

Software - these are defects that occur due to incorrect slicer settings or, less often, errors in the printer firmware. For example, incorrectly selected print speed, retract settings, incorrectly selected temperature for plastic, etc. nine0003

Very rarely, the problem may lie in the wrong or “flying” printer firmware (although usually the printer simply will not start then), overheating of some boards during printing, etc. These are rather special cases, so we will not consider them.

Model peels off or does not stick to platen

This is the most common 3D printing problem. Every 3D printer has had a case when the first layer treacherously rolls, clinging to the extruder, or the most offensive - when it tears off a partially printed model from the table. The first layer must stick tightly otherwise nothing will be printed. nine0003

Gap between table and nozzle too large

This is the most common reason. You just need to set the correct gap between the table and the nozzle.

Modern printers often use an auto-calibration (auto-leveling) table system or an auxiliary table leveling program. To calibrate such printers, use the instructions. If there is no manual, it can be downloaded from the manufacturer's website. nine0003
If you have a simple printer without auto-calibration, a self-assembly or KIT kit, use a probe or a piece of paper folded in half to calibrate. The probe should be slightly pressed against the table by the nozzle. Before calibration, the table and extruder must be heated. Align the table surface over each adjustment screw (there may be 3 or 4) in turn, and only then check the center point.

If you're having trouble getting your table surface perfectly level, try raft printing. Raft is a thick substrate in several layers that is printed under the model. It will help smooth out the slight curvature of the table. nine0003

A small cheat sheet to determine the correct gap on the first layer

Plastic with poor adhesion

Some types of plastic, due to various reasons, such as large shrinkage, do not adhere well to the surface of the printing platform. In this case, try using stickers or special 3D adhesives to improve adhesion between the table and the first layer of plastic.

In the early days of 3D printing, there were experiments with different homemade 3D adhesive recipes. ABS diluted in acetone, BF glue, sugar syrup and even beer. Some experiments have been successful. Until now, some enthusiasts use some types of hairspray or glue sticks as 3D glue. But still they are inferior in their properties to industrial 3D adhesives. nine0003
Some types of high temperature plastics with a high percentage of shrinkage (ABS, Nylon, etc.) may peel off the table during printing. This is due to uneven cooling and “compression” of the model (the lower layers have already cooled down, but the upper ones have not yet). For such plastics, it is imperative to use a 3D printer with a heated table and a closed case.

Plastic temperature too low

The hotter the plastic is when it exits the nozzle, the better it will adhere to the print bed. It is better to print the first 5-10 layers at a higher temperature (+ 5-10 degrees) and turn off the blower fan. nine0003
Wrong first layer settings (speed and thickness)

A thicker layer sticks easier, so the standard first layer is 0.3mm thick. With an increase in print speed, the heating block may simply not have time to heat the plastic to the desired temperature and it will stick to the table worse. Before printing, check the speed and thickness settings of the first layer in the slicer.

A lot depends on how the 3D printer prints the first layer. Try to control the printing of the first layer and only then leave the printer to work alone. nine0003

Plastic does not choke from nozzle

The printer has already begun to print, but the print table remains empty. Or part of the model did not print.

Clogged nozzle

In 3D printing, a nozzle is a consumable. The nozzles are clogged or worn out (frequency depends on the type of plastic). The simplest thing is to replace the nozzle. But if there was no spare at hand, you can try to clean the old one. To do this, there is a whole set of thin needles. Or you can heat a clogged nozzle above the melting point of the plastic and “burn out” the blockage. But later it is still better to replace the nozzle. nine0003
Low temperature nozzle

You need to increase the temperature of the extruder in the slicer settings or check the thermistor and heating block. Sometimes the thermistor may not read the temperature correctly due to a malfunction or incorrect 3D printer firmware settings.

If the problem occurs after replacing the thermistor - contact the manufacturer or read articles about PID tuning.

Empty extruder

As the extruder heats up, plastic begins to ooze out of the nozzle. Because of this, the extruder may start printing half empty. Because of this, part of the first layer is not printed. You can push the plastic manually by simply pushing the bar into the nozzle. Or solve this problem programmatically - in the slicer, add a contour print around the model (one line).

Some manufacturers and 3D enthusiasts add a line print on the edge of the table at the beginning of each GCode. This is done so that there is plastic in the nozzle by the time the model is printed. nine0003
Feed mechanism does not push through plastic

The plastic pushes the feed mechanism to the extruder - a motor with a special pulley put on the shaft. If for some reason the plastic is not pushed through (nozzle clogged, extruder temperature low, etc.), then the pulley “gnaws” through the bar. You need to push the plastic bar with your hands or cut off the damaged piece.

Elephant foot

The first layers of the model are wider and protrude beyond the boundaries of the model. This is due to the fact that the upper layers put pressure on the first ones that have not yet cooled down and flatten them. nine0003

High table temperature

Due to the too high temperature of the table, the lower layers remain soft for a long time. Try lowering the table temperature. It is better to reduce gradually (in increments of 5 degrees). You can try to turn on the blower when printing the first layers.

Small gap between nozzle and platen

If, when printing the first layer, the nozzle is too close to the table, then excess plastic will be forced out. After a few coats, this will not be as noticeable, but can lead to the effect of an “elephant's foot”. nine0003

Plastic re-extrusion

When too much material is squeezed out of the nozzle, the walls of the model are not smooth, but bumpy, with sagging.

The solution is software - in the settings of the slicer, you need to set the material feed rate (fluidity) to a lower value. The average value is 95-98%.

It is worth checking the diameter of the rod. If its size is greater than 1.75, then the plastic will be squeezed out more than necessary. nine0003

Plastic underextrusion

The plastic is squeezed out too little, because of this, gaps may appear between the layer. The finished model will be fragile and fragile.

Wrong thread diameter

Check the filament diameter in the slicer settings. Sometimes, instead of the popular 1.75, the default is 2.85.

Incorrect feed rate settings nine0003
Check the fluidity settings in the slicer. The average should be 95-98%.

Clogged nozzle

Something could get into the nozzle and partially block the exit of the plastic. Visually, the plastic will choke from the nozzle, but in a smaller amount than necessary for printing.

Hairiness or cobwebs on finished model

Thin threads of plastic protrude from the outer wall of the model (most often on one side). The defect appears due to the flow of plastic from the nozzle during idle movement. nine0003

Insufficient retract

A retract is a slight pull of a plastic filament from an extruder. Due to the retract when the extruder is idle (from layer to layer or from model to model), heated plastic does not drip from the nozzle. For some flowable plastics (eg PETG) the speed and amount of retraction must be increased.

"Hairiness" can be easily removed by grinding or cutting off the threads with a sharp scalpel. nine0003
High temperature extruder

The higher the extruder temperature, the more fluid the plastic becomes. It is important to find a balance so that the plastic is not too liquid and sticks well in layers.

In the selection of the optimal extruder temperature, a test model - a tower - helps a lot. It clearly shows how plastic behaves when printed at different temperatures.

.

Temperature test nine0003
Top "perforated" or uneven

The top of the model is bumpy or with holes. The problem may arise if the top of the model is flat. For example, like a cube.

Insufficient airflow

When printing the top plane (cover), the plastic does not have time to cool down and remains too liquid. Because of this, the threads are torn and holes are formed. Increase the fan speed on the last layers. nine0003
Few top layers

The top of the print may be too thin and deform as a result. Check slicer settings. The number of upper layers is not recommended to be set less than 6.

Fill percentage low

If the infill percentage is too low, then the top layer will simply have nothing to rely on. Increase the fill percentage in the slicer settings.

Model deformation

Some parts of the model seem to have melted in some places or on one side. The problem most often occurs when printing with PLA plastic. The defect appears due to the fact that the plastic does not have time to cool and deforms.

Insufficient airflow model

Turn the fans on to maximum. If their power is not enough (in some printers, the fan is located only on one side), you can put a regular desktop fan and direct it to the 3D printer table. nine0003
Small model

Small models are difficult to blow well. Try to print small items alongside larger ones, or place several identical models in different corners of the table. So the plastic will have more time to cool.

Layer offset

Layers shift along the x or y axis during printing.

Print head jam

Turn off the printer and try to move the extruder along the x and y axes with your hands. The extruder must move freely. If there are jams, check the mechanics of the printer. Bearing wear or the curvature of the shafts may be to blame. nine0003
Electronics overheating

Sometimes electronics problems can be to blame for misaligned layers. The most common cause is overheating of the drivers or too low current exposed to them.

Table top is loose

This is most often seen in 3D printers with glass. During printing, the nozzle may hit the model and move the glass slightly. Before printing, check if the glass or other printing surface is well fixed on the heating table. nine0003

Skip layers

Small holes are visible on the print, or the shell of the model is not continuous.

Teflon tube deformed

There are 2 types of thermal barriers - all-metal and with a Teflon tube. If overheated, the Teflon tube may deform. Plastic will pass through it, but in a smaller amount.

Low extruder temperature or high print speed

If the extruder is not heated enough, then the plastic will not be liquid enough and simply will not have time to be forced through the nozzle. The higher the print speed, the higher the extruder temperature should be.

Sometimes the outer walls print well, but the infill is “torn”. In this case, slow down the infill print speed in the slicer.

Model bundle

Cracks form on the surface of the printout during or after printing. Cracks can be large or very small. Most often, this problem occurs with plastics with a high percentage of shrinkage - ABS or Nylon. nine0003

Sudden temperature difference (if model delaminates during printing)

With a sharp temperature difference (for example, a draft), part of the model cools down faster. This leads to uneven shrinkage and incorrect distribution of internal stress. For plastics with low shrinkage, this is not critical. But if the shrinkage percentage is more than a few percent, the model may burst in layers.

For printing with such plastics, it is recommended to use a printer with a closed housing. If this is not possible, try to avoid drafts and sudden temperature changes in the room where the 3D printer prints as much as possible. nine0003
Print temperature

Due to too low printing temperatures, the layers may not “stick” well to each other. Raise the print temperature in the slicer settings.

Hardening (if the model cracks after printing)

Sometimes cracks appear on the model a few days after printing. This is due to uneven distribution of internal stress after cooling. You can try to “harden” the finished product. nine0003
For hardening, the model is placed, for example, in an oven, and heated to the softening temperature of the plastic. After that, the heating is turned off and the oven is left to cool slowly with the model inside. Due to this, the stress inside the print is distributed more evenly. But accuracy is very important in this method - if you make a little mistake with the temperature, the finished product can “float”.

Ringing

In places where the extruder changed direction, ripples are visible. Most often it looks like a shadow around the “sharp” protruding elements of the model. nine0003

Mechanical problems

Sometimes the problem occurs due to extruder play. Check if the extruder mount to the rails is loose. Be sure to check the tension of all belts.

High print speed or high accelerations

Moving the extruder too fast can cause vibrations that cause ripples on the wall of the model. The lighter the weight of the extruder, the less noticeable the ripples will be. To get rid of ringing, simply reduce the print speed in the slicer settings. nine0003
Slots for thin-walled models (not solid shell)

The thin wall of the model is not solid, but consists of two thin walls with a narrow gap between them. This problem is often faced by fans of printing "cutting" for baking.

Left model with wall defect, right without

Wall thickness and nozzle diameter mismatch

If the wall thickness is 1 mm, and the nozzle diameter is 0.4, it turns out that for a solid wall, 2 nozzle passes are few, and 3 are already many. The result will depend on the slicer algorithm, but most often you will get 2 walls with a thin slot in the middle (the slicer cannot change the wall thickness). The solution to the problem may be a slight refinement of the 3D model or the use of a different slicer. nine0003
Algorithms for calculating 3D models are constantly being improved and refined, and now this problem is less common.

When modeling, take into account not only the thickness of the nozzle, but also the percentage of “overlapping” of lines on each other. If you have a nozzle with a diameter of 0.4 - make the wall in your model not 0.8, but 0.7 - 0.75.

Wrong model geometry

When instead of a circle you get an oval, and instead of a square you get a semblance of a rhombus. nine0003

The main reason is malfunctions in the mechanics of the printer. Be sure to check:

Belts

Check belt tension in x and y. Belts stretch over time and may need to be tightened or replaced. Each 3D printer has its own way of tightening the belt. If the belts are slightly stretched, you can tighten them with the help of a "spring".

Loose pulleys, etc.

Check if all bolts and nuts are tight. Are there backlashes. Pay special attention to tightening the pulleys located on the motors along the x and y axes.

Sagging of some parts of the model

Some parts are not printed, broken, or instead of a neat surface, a swollen plastic snot is obtained.

No support for overhangs

A 3D printer cannot print in the air, so if there are overhanging elements in the model, you need to set supports - supports. The slicer can set the necessary support itself, you need to check the appropriate box in the settings. nine0003

When printing with soluble support, you can set the gap between the model and support - 0. This will make the surface smoother. If the support material and the model are the same, you need to add a small gap. Otherwise, it will be difficult to separate the support from the model.

Divide model

Sometimes the supports can take more plastic than the model. In this case, to save material and time, it will be more convenient to cut the model. If you have more than one 3D printer, then the model will print several times faster. nine0003
When cutting the model, you can leave grooves or mortgages so that the pieces of the model are connected without displacement.
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