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Artillery hornet 3d printer
Artillery 3d printer sidewinder x1 V4 version & New arrials of Hornet 110V yellow bee family machine
Artillery 3d printer sidewinder x1 V4 version & New arrials of Hornet 110V yellow bee family machineWe use cookies to improve your online experience. By continuing browsing this website, we assume you agree our use of cookies.
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Artillery 3D Printers Genius Pro & Sidewinder X2 110V US PLUG SW-X2 FDM Extruder 220V EU Exclusive Ultra-quiet Stepper Driver with Filaments
Artillery 3D Printers Genius Pro & Sidewinder X2 110V US PLUG SW-X2 FDM Extruder 220V EU Exclusive Ultra-quiet Stepper Driver with FilamentsWe use cookies to improve your online experience.
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Artillery SW-X1 Sidewinder V4 3D Printer 95% Pre-Assembled Instruction Manual
SW-X4 Sidewinder V3 1D Printer 95% Pre-Assembled
Instruction Manual
List 2 - Tools and Spare Parts
Step 1
Attach the XZ portal to the base using 4 M4x45 screws as shown in the figure below.
Step 2
Attach the spool holder to the top of the printer, adjust the width to fit your spool of filament. Make sure the glow sensor is facing forward.
Step 3
Connect the thread runout sensor as shown in the figures below:
Step 4
Connect the end stop Z to the cable.
Step 5
Connect the Z stepper motors as shown in the figures below:
Step 6
Connect carriage X and the thread runout sensor as shown in the figure to the base. Warning. Handle the flexible flat cable (FFC) with care, make sure it is inserted straight when connected, and make sure it sits flush inside the connectors.
Step 7
Connect the FFC to the card in the X portal.
Step 8
Adjust the tension on all wheels on the machine. Try to turn the wheels without putting any effort on them. If the wheel turns freely or without much effort, it means that it has too much play.
To tighten the wheels, turn the eccentric nuts slightly until the wheel is snug against the frame.
Step 8
For the wheels under the build plate, press the wheels (non-eccentric nut side) firmly against the aluminum profile, then adjust the front and rear wheels by turning the eccentric nuts, and finally adjust the middle wheel.
Step 9
You can now connect the power and turn on the machine. On the touch screen, select "Tools" -> "Heat" to preheat the nozzle and platform. Wait for both to heat up and go to Tools -> Level: 9 instead0007 Move the nozzle to all four corners, adjust the height by turning the handle under the bed. Insert A4 paper between the nozzle and the bed, adjust the height so that the sheet of paper slides with little effort at all points of the bed.
You may have to do the same process twice because the adjustment in one corner will affect the others.
reset button
With this reset button, it will restart the machine and can't resume printing once pressed, so be careful not to press it accidentally.
Tips
While printing, the LED next to the nozzle indicates the current printing status:
- gradually change color from blue to purple as the heated bed reaches the set temperature.
- Gradually change color from purple to red as the hot end heats up.
- change to white to illuminate the work surface.
- Change color to green after printing is complete.
- turn off after printing is completed.
In addition, you can change the color of the LED or turn it off via the TFT touch screen.
For warranty details visit https://desk.zoho.com/portal/evnovo/kb/articles/Lenovo-limited-warranty
For support visit our packaging page at https://desk.zoho .com/portal/evnovo/newcket
Or you can visit our Facebook group at https://www.facebook.com/groups/arlleryswx1/
| https://www.facebook.com/artillery3d/ Last Updated: September 6, 2019 This manual has been updated prior to the printing date.  Please refer to the electronic version if in doubt. 1 Documents / Resources 1.1 Recommendations 1.2 Related Guides/Resources Documents / Resources
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It is currently available for pre-order. 
The second test is drying a PETG thread that spends the night in water. 
Is this really something new or has this technology been available in the past in PursaSlicer or ideaMaker? 
In this video, service engineer Alexander Yurasov will show you what comes with the printer, show its assembly, work in Software, print launch process and end results. 
Weedo will launch its Kickstarter campaign in the coming weeks. So let's take a look at the features of this printer. The print volume of this printer is 300x300x400mm, which is a pretty standard CR10 size. High temperature heater that can reach 300°C and can print with nylon and polycarbonate filaments. Inductive sensor for automatic bed leveling 4.3" touch screen X-axis belt tensioner 32-bit board and TMC2208 silent stepper drivers on X and Y axes Filament exhaustion sensor It uses a single ribbon cable from the motherboard for cleaner cable management . Printing surface of spring steel sheet 
i can easily say this is the best machine i have tried so far with amazing work area, powerful laser cutting module and with the neje 3 updates it has gotten to the point where they add things that people need and not what - some freaky shit but they add an air valve, a relay and an emergency button + they made the whole machine more powerful and added a cable chain so the machine is really on a new level and the most amazing thing is that it costs from 409dollars + you will receive an additional height adjuster, belt tensioners and a metal air damper, especially for this laser module. 
We tried it all with A10 Atomic Stack (Pergear Laserstorm S10) 10W laser 
When laser cutting, Air assist should be turned on to speed up the cutting process and make the surface cleaner. 2. When laser engraving, it is best to turn off the air supply system, which will make the surface foggy. 3. When the job includes both cutting and engraving, how to control the separate opening and closing of the air assist? In Lightburn, select all - ungroup - separate layers for cutting and engraving - cut and engrave separately. 
We'll go over the specs of the printer, what the setup was like, how it prints, me and I will give you my opinion on this printer based on my experience so far. 
Bambu Labs is committed to implementing final features and fixing bugs in time for delivery, and to prepare documentation and support. If you are considering supporting, please remember that Kickstarter makes no guarantees and there is always an inherent risk. 
I think it's important to try different providers, but when you're new you don't even know where to start, I hope this video works as a little guide to give you an idea of which ones to choose. 
JLCPCB printed my usual test pieces in SLA (9000R resin) and MJF (PA12-HP nylon). In one of my next videos, I will be making another order to compare FDM (ABS) and SLM (316L stainless steel) materials. 
I think it's important to try different providers, but when you're new you don't even know where to start, I hope this video works as a little guide to give you an idea of which ones to choose. 
