3D printing 1mm nozzle

When choosing your 3D printer, the nozzle size of your 3D printer may have been the last thing on your mind. This is a detail that is often overlooked. But depending on what you need to print, the wrong nozzle diameter can get in the way.

In this article, we'll take a look at the different 3D printer nozzle sizes and why you should consider this assembly, what materials it's made from, understand the relationship between nozzle size and layer height, and how to measure the actual nozzle diameter.

How does nozzle size affect 3D printing?

Nozzle diameter affects the extrusion width of the 3D printer line. This affects some elements of your model. If you are 3D printing for business (make a lot of orders), you need to make sure your extruder is feeding the right amount of material. If too much material is fed, then more filament is used than is actually required for successful 3D printing. Well, a smaller number can simply lead to marriage.

Or maybe you're printing different designs, some of them very detailed and intricate, and some more practical (like a replacement doorknob) that just needs to be printed quickly and with maximum durability.

In any case, you will need the correct setting to save time, material and ensure the normal quality of the 3D model.

There is no easy answer to what is the best nozzle size for a 3D printer. You need to weigh what you want to achieve and what elements of the 3D model are most important to you.

Depending on your 3D printer, the nozzle can be quite easily replaced (most of them are mounted on screws), and buying a package with different sizes will cost you a lot.

Most common 3D printer nozzle options

The most common standard nozzle size is the 0.4mm (or 0.35mm) nozzle used by most modern 3D printer manufacturers. The reason for this is that it is a rather large and yet versatile nozzle size. This means that you can print with exceptional detail in no time.

With the 0.4 mm 3D printing nozzle you can print up to a layer thickness of only 0.1 mm or up to 0.3 mm. The lower the layer height, the better the detail (on the Z axis) and the larger the layer height, the faster your 3D print will be, but with worse detail quality.

A common misconception is that if someone doesn't get good enough 3D print quality on their printer with a 0.4mm nozzle, they immediately think they need a smaller 3D print nozzle.

Another common smaller size is 0.25 mm. Some 3D printers offer 0.2mm, 0.15mm, and Mass Portal is even experimenting with 0.1mm 3D printer nozzles. And the experiments are really interesting. Thanks to this miniature nozzle, they were able to print the clock mechanism with excellent detail.

How is nozzle diameter related to 3D printer resolution?

Theoretically, smaller 3D printer nozzles allow for greater precision. But for many 3D printers, especially cheaper or older models, a smaller extruder nozzle won't necessarily make a difference if your printer doesn't support the higher resolution you need. It's like putting low-profile, high-performance tires on an old classic car - it doesn't make it go faster, and it doesn't necessarily make it better cornering.

This is also similar to how the specifications of a 3D printer on paper (eg advertised resolution) do not always result in the best print quality of the finished product. Just like Ultimaker and Zortrax have very similar resolutions on paper, but in many actual tests, Zortrax produces better models than Ultimaker 2.

smaller nozzles as resolution across the board is getting better every day.

Let's look at the pros and cons of 3D printing with smaller nozzles. Some are less obvious than others. Next, we'll look at the larger, underpriced nozzles available. I hope after reading this article you will be able to answer the question: "What nozzle size should I print?".

You probably already guessed that the smaller the nozzle size in the extruder, the more detailed model you can get as a result of 3D printing. The thin nozzle is great for complex figures, or if you need to print very thin walls for aircraft skins, or high transparency models, etc.

The photo below shows the printed skin of a model aircraft, which was made with a standard 0.4 mm diameter nozzle. If the same skin is printed with a nozzle with a diameter of 0.2 mm, then the weight (and strength) would be halved.

It is worth noting that a 3D printer with a 0.2 mm nozzle feeds half as much material as a 0.4 mm nozzle. And this actually leads to an increase in print time by the same two times. It should be noted that strength and detail are reciprocals of time. So to get high-quality 3D models using a thin nozzle and high resolution, you will have to be patient (2 times more than when printing with a standard 0.4 extruder :)). In some cases this is justified, in others it is a waste of time...

As a general rule, the smaller the nozzle size, the higher the chance of problems with the 3D printer. Especially if you are using cheap materials - they can work well with low models and thicker nozzles, but if you need detailed models that are printed using a thin nozzle, then you should also be puzzled by buying quality filaments for 3D printing.

Other factors are less obvious when 3D printing with a thin diameter nozzle - for example, protrusions can be problematic. This is because each layer has a smaller width for the next layer. Crossing bridges can also be difficult.

But there is good news too! Where overhangs form, the caliper material will be much easier to remove if printed with a thin nozzle. Due to the increased accuracy, your slicer can use a minimum amount of material between your model and supports, so they will break off more easily and have fewer damaged pads that need to be sanded.

And finally, the most annoying thing about a thin nozzle is the ease with which it clogs. If you downsize to 0.2mm or even 0.1mm, you'll need a small particle to clog the hotend. You need to be very careful about the cleanliness of your 3D printing material and regularly clean the nozzle of your 3D printer. Otherwise, you will not end up with additional unnecessary problems.

It is also worth taking the time to understand the relationship between nozzle size and layer thickness. In short, the first parameter determines the horizontal detail (along the x and y axes), and the second adjusts the resolution along the vertical or z axis.

How to measure the nozzle size of a 3D printer?

Although the actual nozzle diameter should be engraved on the side of the nozzle, it is not always possible to read this value if it is already installed in the extruder or if you have been printing with it for some time. After all, there is the concept of wear and you may not be sure that the nozzle is the same size as before.

To determine what size your nozzle really is, very slowly extrude some material into the air (high speed may change shape or size) at the lowest setting you can feed material at (approximately 1 mm/s). Once cool, use a micrometer if you have one. They are generally more accurate than digital calipers. Keep in mind that the filament will probably expand after being extruded. Poor quality material or an extruder that is too hot (especially if you extrude at 1mm/s) will cause the material to expand more, resulting in inaccurate readings.

It can also be useful to know the size to which your material expands after extrusion if you are working on getting a really nice and accurate model. So feel free to experiment with higher speeds that are a bit more like your actual 3D printing.

What is the relationship between 3D print layer height and nozzle diameter?

In simple terms, this is the thickness of each line of extruded material that makes up each layer of your model. The thinner the layer height (or layer thickness), the finer the print detail in the Z-axis (the vertical dimension of your model), but the more layers will be required. Increases print time.

These characteristics are related, but not completely. For example, you can print using a thinner, thicker nozzle if vertical resolution is less important to you. Or you can use a thicker nozzle with a very small layer height. Although in this case, do not get too carried away. To maintain adequate pressure, your layer height should be at least 20% less than your nozzle width - and in most cases, for best 3D printing results, it should be around 50%.

How to determine the correct distance from the nozzle to the desktop of a 3D printer?

With the correct setting of the distance between the table and the nozzle, the base of the finished model should have an almost perfectly smooth, glassy surface. Many people assume that you need to use a stylus to properly set the distance between the nozzle and the 3D printer bed, but in fact, even that can be too thick. So it's worth thinking in the direction of the already proven table calibration with a piece of paper. You should use thin paper. For example, check paper is a great choice. Place the receipt paper under the nozzle and gradually lower the nozzle down until the receipt paper resists a little when you try to push it out. 3D printing at this height will give the bottom of the model a great look, and in the case of tall models, the print will definitely not go astray.

What is the maximum 3D print layer height compared to the nozzle size?

You don't necessarily need a layer height calculator on your 3D printer, but typically the maximum layer height is 50% of the nozzle width. In some cases, you can go higher (perhaps 75%), but in this case, you must be aware that you can sacrifice reliability.

It's best to experiment with the parameters of your model if you understand the relationship between the 3D printer's nozzle size and the layer height you'll be using to print. So for a 0.4mm nozzle, you will need to print with a layer height of 0.2mm, or up to 0.3mm. Your minimum should be around 0.1mm. If less, then in fact you just increase the waiting time without much benefit (on the same 0.4 mm nozzle).

In most cases, it is worth printing thinner layers with smaller nozzle diameters and generally thicker layers with thicker nozzles. Just note that if you are printing with a thicker nozzle diameter and very thin layer height, you will need to lower the extrusion settings in your slicer to prevent overfeeding.

It's also worth noting that no matter the size, you should always make sure you always have a clean nozzle. One of the easiest ways to do this is to use a high quality cleaning floss. You only need to use a few grams of it each time you brush, but this will prevent carbon buildup over time.

So why should I use a 0.8mm nozzle or thicker?

Similar nozzle sizes were more common on older 3D printers but are making a comeback. It's all about using what you need and nothing more. For a large number of models, the 0.4mm headroom that your 3D printer probably comes with may be overkill in terms of detail.

If you need strength and speed, but detail is less important, then you should use a 0.8 mm or even 1.0 mm nozzle. And don't forget that models printed with a 0.8mm nozzle can be very detailed, as a lot depends on your 3D printer as well.

The only slight disadvantage may be that you use more material, but with thicker part walls you can probably compensate with less infill.

There is no single optimal nozzle size for all models, you just need to take all factors into account and decide which nozzle size is best for you.

What nozzle size should I use for composite materials?

It is worth noting that composite materials (any particulate filament such as wood filler, copper filler, carbon fiber nylon or glass reinforced nylon) will cause extrusion problems when using a thinner nozzle.

This is because these filaments contain particles which, although nanosized, can cause problems when passing through nozzles smaller than 0.4 mm. For composite materials, it is better to use nozzles of at least 0.5 mm, and for any metal, glass or carbon fiber materials, you will need a hardened nozzle. The brass nozzle that comes with your 3D printer will most likely not last long and will increase in diameter after a few hours of printing.

A 0.5 mm stainless steel or tungsten nozzle will last much longer for composite materials, but will, of course, be more expensive.

So, if you're still wondering "What size extruder nozzle to choose?", here are the results for a nozzle with a diameter smaller than the standard 0.4 mm:

- worth using for small detailed models if your 3D printer supports high resolution;

- 3D printing can take significantly longer, thicker nozzles can significantly reduce print time;

- overhangs are more difficult to print, but supports break off more easily;

- you need material from a quality proven manufacturer, otherwise the nozzle can easily become clogged.

5 Common Problems in a 3D Printing Shop

Working with a lot of media means you have at least a few spools of each material in your shop. These can be coils from one or more manufacturers, coils from one or from different production batches. Unfortunately, at the moment, there are actually no standards for the production of filament for 3D printing, except, perhaps, the standard for the diameter of the rod. Temperature characteristics may vary slightly for one type of plastic from different manufacturers. This is primarily due to the fact that each manufacturer of materials for 3D printing uses different raw materials from their suppliers. Also, different manufacturers of materials can use different types of dyes for the filament, and dyes can have a rather strong effect on the physical and chemical properties of materials. But even if you work with only one manufacturer of 3D printing plastic, there is no guarantee that the print settings will always be the same, as raw materials, dyes and production parameters may change with the manufacturer over time. Therefore, when opening a new coil, it is advisable to perform at least 2 material tests: for the amount of plastic flow required (flow) and for the optimal printing temperature (temperature tower).

Differences in settings between different heads can be significant, sometimes resulting in printing defects or even damage to the print head. The situation becomes more complicated if you have not one printer, but, for example, ten, and you urgently need to place an order from a new reel, but there is no time for tests. In this case, you will have to trust your experience: try to set the optimal parameters and be ready to correct the settings during printing.

Conclusion: do not neglect testing the new spool, it will save you time and nerves and you will be able to use all the good quality material for 3D printing. Use materials from reliable manufacturers. Check the new coil yourself, empirically, because reviews on the Internet cannot always give you a complete and truthful picture.

When working with a large fleet of constantly running 3D printers, the problem of nozzle wear always comes up unexpectedly. Now on the market of raw materials for 3D printing, there are structurally rigid composite and metal-filled materials that can increase, in a short time of their use, the nozzle diameter from 0.4mm to 0.6mm.

If this is not noticed in a timely manner, it will be difficult to achieve a good quality of the printed model. Deviation from the desired diameter, although it is unpleasant, is not the worst thing. Practice shows that a slight offset from the desired nozzle diameter does not greatly affect the printing of large models with simple geometry that do not require high precision in the development of elements. It is much worse when the nozzle is ground unevenly, because of this, the incoming material lies unevenly on the layer. The printed surface may go in waves or have other defects visible to the eye. It's pretty easy to notice that a nozzle is malfunctioning: when you load plastic into the extruder, you can see how the flowing material bends and twists at the outlet of the nozzle.

Output: constantly monitor the state of your hotend. Before printing, push the plastic through the extruder, watch the flow of material coming out of the nozzle. If the material flows out unevenly, then we can say with confidence that there is a problem with the extruder, which is best solved at the start of 3D printing. 3D printer nozzles are a consumable item, stock up on replacements if you have a lot of printing to do.

As a rule, different orders can be printed with nozzles with different outlet diameters. For example, models with fine details are best printed with nozzles with a diameter of 0.2mm, and for rough technical details with 100% plastic filling, it is much more profitable to use nozzles with diameters of 0. 6-1mm. If you have one printer, then changing one nozzle to another is not a big deal: you heat up the hot end, remove the material, unscrew the nozzle, and screw in a new one. Since most nozzles have slightly different heights (especially if the nozzles are of different types: e3d or mk8), after changing from one to another, it is usually necessary to re-calibrate the 3D printer bed.

If you use a whole fleet of 3d printers, then you will have to change nozzles for different orders often, which means you need to try to optimize this task.

Conclusion: sign on your printers the nozzle diameter that is currently set. Select printers for "coarse" and "fine" printing, where nozzles of large and small diameters will stand, respectively. Use special tools: the nozzle is much easier to remove with a socket head. Organize the storage of your working nozzles, use cash registers.

D printers.

This type of problem is a combination of two things: incorrect printhead alignment relative to the 3D printer bed, and excessive adhesion of the material to the bed. In the first case, when your 3D printer is poorly calibrated and printing starts “on the table”, glass surfaces or film coatings wear out, and the printer’s hot end may also suffer because of this, as the nozzle clings to the table surface. In this case, the table can be damaged so much that defects will form on the first layers of the models - chips and dents of the table will be imprinted on the finished part. If you need a smooth, even surface on the model, this will spoil all the work done.

The second reason for table wear is increased adhesion of parts to the table. If, for example, you print a material with high adhesion (PetG, TPU, PLA, etc.) using 3D printing glue on a heated table, then the finished part, even after complete cooling, may well pick up a piece of sticker or even glass , depending on the type of printable surface.

Conclusion: accurate table calibration and print setup of the first layer of the model is half the success of all printing and the key to a long life of the 3D printer working surface. Always take into account the characteristics of the printed material, select the correct settings for the first layer of printing.

Problems that do not depend on the settings and mechanics of your 3D printer: overlap and “jumping” bar diameter. In the case of overlapping, the matter is, as a rule, in the marriage of the winding of the filament in production. Overlapping the media can cause knots to form at a random location on the spool, causing the plastic to stop unwinding from the spool during printing and get stuck. If your printer does not have a filament motion sensor, this will most likely ruin all printing.

Bar diameter fluctuating results in uneven material flow from the nozzle, resulting in under- or over-extrusion (under- or over-flow of material).

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