3D printer stringing issues

This is the most common reason. You just need to set the correct gap between the table and the nozzle.

Modern printers often use an auto-calibration (auto-leveling) table system or an auxiliary table leveling program. To calibrate such printers, use the instructions. If there is no manual, it can be downloaded from the manufacturer's website.

If you have a simple printer without auto-calibration, a self-assembly or KIT kit, use a probe or a piece of paper folded in half to calibrate. The probe should be slightly pressed against the table by the nozzle. Before calibration, the table and extruder must be heated. Align the table surface over each adjustment screw (there may be 3 or 4) in turn, and only then check the center point.

If you're having trouble getting your table surface perfectly level, try raft printing. Raft is a thick substrate in several layers that is printed under the model. It will help smooth out the slight curvature of the table.

A small cheat sheet to determine the correct gap on the first layer

Plastic with poor adhesion

Some types of plastic, due to various reasons, such as large shrinkage, do not adhere well to the surface of the printing platform. In this case, try using stickers or special 3D adhesives to improve adhesion between the table and the first layer of plastic.

In the early days of 3D printing, there were experiments with different homemade 3D adhesive recipes. ABS diluted in acetone, BF glue, sugar syrup and even beer. Some experiments have been successful. Until now, some enthusiasts use some types of hairspray or glue sticks as 3D glue. But still they are inferior in their properties to industrial 3D adhesives.

Some types of high temperature plastics with a high percentage of shrinkage (ABS, Nylon, etc.) may peel off the table during printing. This is due to uneven cooling and “compression” of the model (the lower layers have already cooled down, but the upper ones have not yet). For such plastics, it is imperative to use a 3D printer with a heated table and a closed case.

Plastic temperature too low

The hotter the plastic is when it exits the nozzle, the better it will adhere to the print bed. It is better to print the first 5-10 layers at a higher temperature (+ 5-10 degrees) and turn off the blower fan.

Wrong first layer settings (speed and thickness)

A thicker layer sticks easier, so the standard first layer is 0.3mm thick. With an increase in print speed, the heating block may simply not have time to heat the plastic to the desired temperature and it will stick to the table worse. Before printing, check the speed and thickness settings of the first layer in the slicer.

A lot depends on how the 3D printer prints the first layer. Try to control the printing of the first layer and only then leave the printer to work alone.

Plastic does not choke from nozzle

The printer has already begun to print, but the print table remains empty. Or part of the model did not print.

Clogged nozzle

In 3D printing, a nozzle is a consumable. The nozzles are clogged or worn out (frequency depends on the type of plastic). The simplest thing is to replace the nozzle. But if there was no spare at hand, you can try to clean the old one. To do this, there is a whole set of thin needles. Or you can heat a clogged nozzle above the melting point of the plastic and “burn out” the blockage. But later it is still better to replace the nozzle.

Low temperature nozzle

You need to increase the temperature of the extruder in the slicer settings or check the thermistor and heating block. Sometimes the thermistor may not read the temperature correctly due to a malfunction or incorrect 3D printer firmware settings.

If the problem occurs after replacing the thermistor - contact the manufacturer or read articles about PID tuning.

Empty extruder

As the extruder heats up, plastic begins to ooze out of the nozzle. Because of this, the extruder may start printing half empty. Because of this, part of the first layer is not printed. You can push the plastic manually by simply pushing the bar into the nozzle. Or solve this problem programmatically - in the slicer, add a contour print around the model (one line).

Some manufacturers and 3D enthusiasts add a line print on the edge of the table at the beginning of each GCode. This is done so that there is plastic in the nozzle by the time the model is printed.

Feed mechanism does not push through plastic

The plastic pushes the feed mechanism to the extruder - a motor with a special pulley put on the shaft. If for some reason the plastic is not pushed through (nozzle clogged, extruder temperature low, etc.), then the pulley “gnaws” through the bar. You need to push the plastic bar with your hands or cut off the damaged piece.

Elephant foot

The first layers of the model are wider and protrude beyond the boundaries of the model. This is due to the fact that the upper layers put pressure on the first ones that have not yet cooled down and flatten them.

High table temperature

Due to the too high temperature of the table, the lower layers remain soft for a long time. Try lowering the table temperature. It is better to reduce gradually (in increments of 5 degrees). You can try to turn on the blower when printing the first layers.

Small gap between nozzle and platen

If, when printing the first layer, the nozzle is too close to the table, then excess plastic will be forced out. After a few coats, this will not be as noticeable, but can lead to the effect of an “elephant's foot”.

Plastic re-extrusion

When too much material is squeezed out of the nozzle, the walls of the model are not smooth, but bumpy, with sagging.

The solution is software - in the settings of the slicer, you need to set the material feed rate (fluidity) to a lower value. The average value is 95-98%.

It is worth checking the diameter of the rod. If its size is greater than 1.75, then the plastic will be squeezed out more than necessary.

Plastic underextrusion

The plastic is squeezed out too little, because of this, gaps may appear between the layer. The finished model will be fragile and fragile.

Wrong thread diameter

Check the filament diameter in the slicer settings. Sometimes, instead of the popular 1.75, the default is 2.85.

Incorrect feed rate settings

Check the fluidity settings in the slicer. The average should be 95-98%.

Clogged nozzle

Something could get into the nozzle and partially block the exit of the plastic. Visually, the plastic will choke from the nozzle, but in a smaller amount than necessary for printing.

Hairiness or cobwebs on finished model

Thin threads of plastic protrude from the outer wall of the model (most often on one side). The defect appears due to the flow of plastic from the nozzle during idle movement.

Insufficient retract

A retract is a slight pull of a plastic filament from an extruder. Due to the retract when the extruder is idle (from layer to layer or from model to model), heated plastic does not drip from the nozzle. For some flowable plastics (eg PETG) the speed and amount of retraction must be increased.

"Hairiness" can be easily removed by grinding or cutting off the threads with a sharp scalpel.

High temperature extruder

The higher the extruder temperature, the more liquid the plastic becomes. It is important to find a balance so that the plastic is not too liquid and sticks well in layers.

In the selection of the optimal extruder temperature, a test model - a tower - helps a lot. It clearly shows how plastic behaves when printed at different temperatures.

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Temperature test

Top "perforated" or uneven

The top of the model is bumpy or with holes. The problem may arise if the top of the model is flat. For example, like a cube.

Insufficient airflow

When printing the top plane (cover), the plastic does not have time to cool down and remains too liquid. Because of this, the threads are torn and holes are formed. Increase the fan speed on the last layers.

Few top layers

The top of the print may be too thin and deform as a result. Check slicer settings. The number of upper layers is not recommended to be set less than 6.

Low percentage of filling

If the infill percentage is too low, then the top layer will simply have nothing to rely on. Increase the fill percentage in the slicer settings.

Model deformation

Some parts of the model seem to have melted in some places or on one side. The problem most often occurs when printing with PLA plastic. The defect appears due to the fact that the plastic does not have time to cool and deforms.

Insufficient airflow model

Turn the fans on to maximum. If their power is not enough (in some printers, the fan is located only on one side), you can put a regular desktop fan and direct it to the 3D printer table.

Small model

Small models are difficult to blow well. Try to print small items alongside larger ones, or place several identical models in different corners of the table. So the plastic will have more time to cool.

Layer offset

Layers shift along the x or y axis during printing.

Print head jam

Turn off the printer and try to move the extruder along the x and y axes with your hands. The extruder must move freely. If there are jams, check the mechanics of the printer. Bearing wear or the curvature of the shafts may be to blame.

Electronics overheating

Sometimes electronics problems can be to blame for misaligned layers. The most common cause is overheating of the drivers or too low current exposed to them.

Table top is loose

This is most often seen in 3D printers with glass. During printing, the nozzle may hit the model and move the glass slightly. Before printing, check if the glass or other printing surface is well fixed on the heating table.

Skip layers

Small holes are visible on the print, or the shell of the model is not continuous.

Teflon tube deformed

There are 2 types of thermal barriers - all-metal and with a Teflon tube. If overheated, the Teflon tube may deform. Plastic will pass through it, but in a smaller amount.

Low extruder temperature or high print speed

If the extruder is not heated enough, then the plastic will not be liquid enough and simply will not have time to be forced through the nozzle. The higher the print speed, the higher the extruder temperature should be.

Sometimes the outer walls print well, but the infill is “torn”. In this case, slow down the infill print speed in the slicer.

Model bundle

Cracks form on the surface of the printout during or after printing. Cracks can be large or very small. Most often, this problem occurs with plastics with a high percentage of shrinkage - ABS or Nylon.

Sudden temperature difference (if model delaminates during printing)

With a sharp temperature difference (for example, a draft), part of the model cools down faster. This leads to uneven shrinkage and incorrect distribution of internal stress. For plastics with low shrinkage, this is not critical. But if the shrinkage percentage is more than a few percent, the model may burst in layers.

For printing with such plastics, it is recommended to use a printer with a closed housing. If this is not possible, try to avoid drafts and sudden temperature changes in the room where the 3D printer prints as much as possible.

Print temperature

Due to too low printing temperatures, the layers may not “stick” well to each other. Raise the print temperature in the slicer settings.

Hardening (if the model cracks after printing)

Sometimes cracks appear on the model a few days after printing. This is due to uneven distribution of internal stress after cooling. You can try to “harden” the finished product.

For hardening, the model is placed, for example, in an oven, and heated to the softening temperature of the plastic. After that, the heating is turned off and the oven is left to cool slowly with the model inside. Due to this, the stress inside the print is distributed more evenly. But accuracy is very important in this method - if you make a little mistake with the temperature, the finished product can “float”.

Ringing

In places where the extruder changed direction, ripples are visible. Most often it looks like a shadow around the “sharp” protruding elements of the model.

Mechanical problems

Sometimes the problem occurs due to extruder play. Check if the extruder mount to the rails is loose. Be sure to check the tension of all belts.

High print speed or high accelerations

Moving the extruder too fast can cause vibrations that cause ripples on the wall of the model. The lighter the weight of the extruder, the less noticeable the ripples will be. To get rid of ringing, simply reduce the print speed in the slicer settings.

Slits for thin-walled models (not solid shell)

The thin wall of the model is not solid, but consists of two thin walls with a narrow gap between them. This problem is often faced by fans of printing "cutting" for baking.

Left model with wall defect, right without

Wall thickness and nozzle diameter mismatch

If the wall thickness is 1 mm, and the nozzle diameter is 0.4, it turns out that for a solid wall, 2 nozzle passes are few, and 3 are already many. The result will depend on the slicer algorithm, but most often you will get 2 walls with a thin slot in the middle (the slicer cannot change the wall thickness). The solution to the problem may be a slight refinement of the 3D model or the use of a different slicer.

Algorithms for calculating 3D models are constantly being improved and refined, and now this problem is less common.

When modeling, take into account not only the thickness of the nozzle, but also the percentage of “overlapping” of lines on each other. If you have a nozzle with a diameter of 0.4 - make the wall in your model not 0.8, but 0.7 - 0.75.

Wrong model geometry

When instead of a circle you get an oval, and instead of a square you get a semblance of a rhombus.

The main reason is malfunctions in the mechanics of the printer. Be sure to check:

Belts

Check belt tension in x and y. Belts stretch over time and may need to be tightened or replaced. Each 3D printer has its own way of tightening the belt. If the belts are slightly stretched, you can tighten them with the help of a "spring".

Loose pulleys, etc.

Check if all bolts and nuts are tight. Are there backlashes. Pay special attention to tightening the pulleys located on the motors along the x and y axes.

Sagging of some parts of the model

Some parts are not printed, broken, or instead of a neat surface, a swollen plastic snot is obtained.

No support for overhangs

A 3D printer cannot print in the air, so if there are overhanging elements in the model, you need to set supports - supports. The slicer can set the necessary support itself, you need to check the appropriate box in the settings.

When printing with soluble support, you can set the gap between the model and support - 0. This will make the surface smoother. If the support material and the model are the same, you need to add a small gap. Otherwise, it will be difficult to separate the support from the model.

Split model

Sometimes the supports can take more plastic than the model. In this case, to save material and time, it will be more convenient to cut the model. If you have more than one 3D printer, then the model will print several times faster.

When cutting the model, you can leave grooves or mortgages so that the pieces of the model are connected without displacement.

Totals

In this article, we talked about the most popular 3D printing defects and how to solve them. Don't be intimidated by such a long list. Some problems are rare and you are unlikely to encounter them.

There is a list of problems that arise due to the design features of a 3D printer, so try to choose a printer that suits your needs. To do this, you need to understand what products and what material you need.

Problems associated with printing algorithms are quickly eliminated by software developers.

Do not be afraid of possible difficulties and each seal will be successful.

Typical problems in 3D printing and ways to solve them -1

Hairiness or gossamer on the finished model

Thin threads of plastic stick out from the outer wall of the model (most often on one side). The defect appears due to the flow of plastic from the nozzle during idle movement.

Insufficient retract

Retract is a slight pull of the plastic filament from the extruder. Due to the retract when the extruder is idle (from layer to layer or from model to model), heated plastic does not drip from the nozzle. For some flowable plastics (eg PETG) the speed and amount of retraction must be increased.

“Hairiness” can be easily removed by grinding or cutting off the threads with a sharp scalpel.

High temperature extruder

The higher the temperature of the extruder, the more liquid the plastic becomes

It is important to find a balance so that the plastic is not too liquid and “sticks together” well in layers.

The test model – the tower – helps a lot in choosing the optimal extruder temperature. It clearly shows how plastic behaves when printed at different temperatures.

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Temperature test

Problem during task execution

A common situation among novice performers. They face a problem and try to solve it on their own, without resorting to experienced colleagues. They are interested in reaching a decision on their own or afraid to seem incompetent. Meanwhile, the deadline is approaching. Even if the contractor managed to cope with the problem, the remaining time may not be enough to complete the project.

For example, a novice developer is faced with the task of implementing a new component for the system. He handles it on his own. But when experienced developers look at the result, it turns out that it could have been achieved faster and more efficiently.

The problem could be solved by contacting someone who would help and suggest the right direction.

Layer Offset

Layers are shifted along the x or y axis during printing.

Print head jam

Turn off the printer and try to move the extruder along the x and y axes by hand. The extruder must move freely. If there are jams, check the mechanics of the printer. Bearing wear or the curvature of the shafts may be to blame.

Overheated electronics

Sometimes problems with the electronics can be the culprit in misaligned layers. The most common cause is overheating of the drivers or too low current exposed to them.

The table top is loose

This is most commonly seen on 3D printers with glass. During printing, the nozzle may hit the model and move the glass slightly. Before printing, check if the glass or other printing surface is well fixed on the heating bed..

Sources of problems

Problems are obstacles and difficulties that must be overcome in order to achieve a goal. As a rule, they arise for various reasons and are often the result of our own mistakes and failures. There are several factors that usually lead to problems. To identify them as early as possible, we advise you to regularly ask yourself the following questions.

• Am I really doing the right thing and getting results?
  There is no point in deceiving yourself by evaluating your work in an unreasonably positive way. Do you see a real measurable result of the work you have undertaken? Very often we do not reach our goal and face problems because we are not fully immersed in the work. But if you allow yourself to be lazy and indulge your weaknesses, you are unlikely to seriously advance on the path to your dream, and problems cannot be avoided either.
• Do I understand what resources will be needed to take the next step?

Starting to work on our dream, we do not have a complete idea of ​​what exactly we will need along the way. Therefore, you should constantly ask yourself what resources will be required for the next stage

Most often, we miss some details at the very beginning - and it is important that everything you need is at hand at the right time, and not sometime later.

Do the people who help me and work with me understand what needs to be done, what we have already achieved and how the situation has changed?
Communication between the participants is almost always the weakest link in a project. For some reason, we think that those around us fully understand, although often we do not even give them complete information about what we expect from them. In our opinion, they know the same thing as we do, therefore, in general, everything is known and understandable. We believe that colleagues and partners know how the situation is changing and what needs to be done in the new conditions

It is very, very important to check and double check that everyone knows and understands everything, especially if you feel that communication between the participants is not well established. This way you can avoid at least some problems.

The fewer assumptions you make, the better you will communicate what is truly important and relevant.

Am I getting paranoid? Some
people think too much about what might happen. Sometimes we want to avoid failure or mistakes so badly that thinking about it completely paralyzes us. And in general, if you think a lot about potential troubles, you can provoke problems that would not have arisen with a more relaxed attitude to what is happening. Fear of failure often prevents you from giving all your strength to your dream. So do not allow yourself to worry too much and think about possible difficulties, it is better to work harder!

Some parts of the model are sagging

Some parts are not printed, are broken, or have swollen plastic snot instead of a neat surface.

No support for overhanging elements

The 3D printer cannot print in the air, so if the model has overhanging elements, you need to set supports - supports. The slicer can set the necessary support itself, you need to check the appropriate box in the settings.

When printing with soluble support, you can set the gap between the model and the support to 0. This will make the surface smoother. If the support material and the model are the same, you need to add a small gap. Otherwise, it will be difficult to separate the support from the model.

Divide model

Sometimes the supports can take more plastic than the model. In this case, to save material and time, it will be more convenient to cut the model. If you have more than one 3D printer, then the model will print several times faster.

When cutting the model, you can leave grooves or embeds so that the pieces of the model are connected without displacement.

Plastic is not squeezing out of the nozzle

The printer seems to be starting to print, but the platen remains empty. Or part of the model did not print.

Clogged nozzle

Nozzle is a consumable in 3D printing. The nozzles are clogged or worn out (frequency depends on the type of plastic). The simplest thing is to replace the nozzle. But if there was no spare at hand, you can try to clean the old one. To do this, there is a whole set of thin needles. Or you can heat a clogged nozzle above the melting point of the plastic and “burn out” the blockage. But later it is still better to replace the nozzle.

Low temperature nozzle

You need to increase the temperature of the extruder in the slicer settings or check the thermistor and heating block. Sometimes the thermistor may not read the temperature correctly due to a malfunction or incorrect 3D printer firmware settings.

If the problem occurs after replacing the thermistor, contact the manufacturer or read articles about PID tuning.

Empty extruder

As the extruder heats up, plastic begins to ooze from the nozzle. Because of this, the extruder may start printing half empty. Because of this, part of the first layer is not printed. You can push the plastic manually by simply pushing the bar into the nozzle. Or solve this problem programmatically - in the slicer, add a contour print around the model (one line).

Some manufacturers and 3D enthusiasts add a line print on the edge of the table at the beginning of each GCode. This is done so that there is plastic in the nozzle by the time the model is printed.

The feed mechanism does not push plastic

The plastic pushes the feed mechanism to the extruder - a motor with a special pulley put on the shaft. If for some reason the plastic is not pushed through (nozzle clogged, extruder temperature low, etc.), then the pulley “gnaws” through the bar. You need to push the plastic bar with your hands or cut off the damaged piece.

Deformation of the model

Some parts of the model seem to have melted in some places or on one side. The problem most often occurs when printing with PLA plastic. The defect appears due to the fact that the plastic does not have time to cool and deforms.

Insufficient airflow model

Turn on the blower fans to maximum. If their power is not enough (in some printers, the fan is located only on one side), you can put a regular desktop fan and direct it to the 3D printer table.

Small models are difficult to blow well. Try to print small items alongside larger ones, or place several identical models in different corners of the table. So the plastic will have more time to cool.

The top of the model is “perforated” or uneven

The top of the model is bumpy or with holes. The problem may arise if the top of the model is flat. For example, like a cube.

Insufficient airflow

When printing the top plane (cover), the plastic does not have time to cool down and remains too liquid. Because of this, the threads are torn and holes are formed. Increase the fan speed on the last layers.

Not enough top layers

The top of the print may be too thin and warp. Check slicer settings. The number of upper layers is not recommended to be set less than 6.

Low infill percentage

If the infill percentage is too low, then the top layer will simply have nothing to rely on. Increase the fill percentage in the slicer settings.

Delamination model

Cracks appear on the print surface during or after printing. Cracks can be large or very small. Most often, this problem occurs with plastics with a high percentage of shrinkage - ABS or Nylon.

Sudden temperature change (if the model is stratified during printing)

When there is a sudden temperature change (eg draft), part of the model cools down faster. This leads to uneven shrinkage and incorrect distribution of internal stress. For plastics with low shrinkage, this is not critical. But if the shrinkage percentage is more than a few percent, the model may burst in layers.

For printing with these plastics, it is recommended to use a printer with a closed housing. If this is not possible, try to avoid drafts and sudden temperature changes in the room where the 3D printer prints as much as possible.

Print temperature

If the print temperature is too low, the layers may not stick together well. Raise the print temperature in the slicer settings.

Hardening (if the model cracks after printing)

Sometimes cracks appear on the model a few days after printing. This is due to uneven distribution of internal stress after cooling. You can try to “harden” the finished product.

For hardening, the model is placed in an oven, for example, and heated to the softening temperature of the plastic. After that, the heating is turned off and the oven is left to cool slowly with the model inside. Due to this, the stress inside the print is distributed more evenly. But accuracy is very important in this method - if you make a little mistake with the temperature, the finished product can “float”.

Ripples are visible where the extruder has changed direction. Most often it looks like a shadow around the “sharp” protruding elements of the model.

Mechanical problems

Sometimes the problem is caused by extruder play. Check if the extruder mount to the rails is loose. Be sure to check the tension of all belts.

High print speeds or high accelerations

Moving the extruder too fast can cause vibrations that cause ripples on the wall of the model. The lighter the weight of the extruder, the less noticeable the ripples will be. To get rid of ringing, simply reduce the print speed in the slicer settings.

Cause 1: 3D printing is expensive and slow

3D printing has come under the spotlight during the COVID-19 pandemic and related economic turmoil. Companies ranging from industry leaders to small businesses working from home have been actively using additive manufacturing to quickly produce pandemic-fighting products such as face masks, ventilators and sampling tubes.

Additive manufacturing is being praised by many for its help in the fight against the pandemic, and some see it as a watershed in the development of the 3D printing industry. However, there are those who adhere to the age-old stereotype that this technology makes production slower and more expensive.

To say this about 3D printing in general is unfair and incorrect, but there is still some truth in it.

There are several methods for metal 3D printing. Leading manufacturers use those based on sintering, melting or spraying metal powder. According to this technology, parts are created from metal grains fused together. However, the use of metal powder is expensive. When handling it, production teams need additional security measures. In addition, a lot of time and money is spent on post-processing processes: removal of powder residues, thermal and mechanical processing.

Misunderstanding of the task

We develop software products for business processes. We often encounter a situation where the client has a poor idea of ​​what he needs and how it should work. A dangerous situation is created when the team has to do this - I don’t know what. At the same time, developers are often sure that they have correctly understood the problem being solved and are moving in the right direction.

The deadline arrives, the project manager looks at the result and realizes that the task has not been solved because it was misunderstood.

To prevent such situations from happening, you need to work on a solution not only together with the team, but also with the client.

This is how all participants in the process will understand the problem they are working on. The first step to turning in a task on time is to understand what it is.

In addition to working together, an iterative approach helps. Moving towards a solution in small steps, each of which ends with an analysis, we adjust the direction of work with the least losses.

Model is peeling off or not sticking to the print bed

This is the most common 3D printing problem. Every 3D printer has had a case when the first layer treacherously rolls, clinging to the extruder, or, most offensively, when it tears off a partially printed model from the table. The first layer must stick tightly otherwise nothing will be printed.

Gap between table and nozzle too large

This is the most common cause. You just need to set the correct gap between the table and the nozzle.

Modern printers often use an auto-calibration (auto-levelling) table system or an auxiliary table leveling program. To calibrate such printers, use the instructions. If there is no manual, it can be downloaded from the manufacturer's website.

If you have a simple printer without auto-calibration, self-assembly or KIT, use a probe or a piece of paper folded in half to calibrate. The probe should be slightly pressed against the table by the nozzle. Before calibration, the table and extruder must be heated. Align the table surface over each adjustment screw (there may be 3 or 4) in turn, and only then check the center point.

A small cheat sheet for determining the correct gap on the first layer

Plastic with poor adhesion

Some types of plastic, due to various reasons, such as large shrinkage, do not adhere well to the surface of the printing platform. In this case, try using stickers or special 3D adhesives to improve adhesion between the table and the first layer of plastic.

In the early days of 3D printing, there were experiments with various homemade 3D adhesive recipes. ABS diluted in acetone, BF glue, sugar syrup and even beer. Some experiments have been successful. Until now, some enthusiasts use some types of hairspray or glue sticks as 3D glue. But still they are inferior in their properties to industrial 3D adhesives.

Some types of high temperature shrinkable plastics (ABS, Nylon, etc.) may peel off the table during printing. This is due to uneven cooling and “compression” of the model (the lower layers have already cooled down, but the upper ones have not yet). For such plastics, it is imperative to use a 3D printer with a heated table and a closed case.

Plastic temperature too low

The hotter the plastic is when exiting the nozzle, the better it will adhere to the print bed. It is better to print the first 5-10 layers at a higher temperature (+ 5-10 degrees) and turn off the blower fan.

Incorrect first layer settings (speed and thickness)

Thicker layer sticks easier, so the standard first layer is 0.3mm thick. With an increase in print speed, the heating block may simply not have time to heat the plastic to the desired temperature and it will stick to the table worse. Before printing, check the speed and thickness settings of the first layer in the slicer.

The presence of more important tasks

It happens that you wait for months until an employee finds time for a task that is not very important, but necessary. If there is no deadline, it is not scary that it will be done later. But be on the lookout if you want it to be done.

Our developer was waiting for the project manager to register the project with Microsoft BizSpark. The manager had many higher priority and urgent tasks. The developer patiently reminded about the task and after a few weeks received the long-awaited access. If he had not done this, the task would have been forgotten.

Feel free to remind about the task.

In the worst case, a colleague will be so tired of it that it will be easier for him to do it. At the same time, learn to understand the mood and state of colleagues, as well as take into account what they are currently working on. To do this, it is useful to make the tasks of each employee open to others. This will help you choose the right time to once again remind you of the task.

Support materials

As you know, the 3D printer starts printing from the bottom up. This means that if your model design has large ridges on the top that don't have any sort of stop, then you might run into some trouble. The plastic thread also obeys the laws of gravity and cannot be squeezed out into the void. In such cases, a special supporting structure can be used to support the protruding parts of the model. Such structures can be water-soluble or removed mechanically. In any case, before starting post-processing, such supports must be removed.

Helmet printed upside down with minimal support. If your support structure is not water soluble, then you will need to break it off or saw it off. For example, in this case it will be convenient to use an Exacto household knife, making cuts in the same plane as the printed surface. After removing the supports, use 200 or 400 grit sandpaper to gently smooth out the marks. In the image above, you can see that the model was printed upside down in order not to create a lot of supporting supports and thus reduce the time to remove them. In addition, PLA plastic is easier to sand on large, flat areas, such as the top of a helmet. If your support structure is dissolvable, then most likely you are dealing with PVA or HIPS. In this case, place the model in the appropriate solvent - water for PVA, limonene for HIPS. Water should completely dissolve the structure in a few hours. Limonene will take longer to dissolve the HIPS, usually around 24 hours. In both cases, remember to shake the solvent containers and your model from time to time to speed up the dissolution process.

Proper rinsing of the product

Thorough rinsing of the product is an important part of the post-processing process

This is especially important for dental products, because. it is unacceptable for liquid polymer to enter the patient's oral cavity

We recommend washing the model in alcohol, dividing this operation into 2 stages:

• Washing in dirty alcohol

• Washing in pure alcohol in an ultrasonic bath

Dividing this operation into two stages allows you to save alcohol and better wash parts

Warming up the model for a specified time in the oven at the required temperature

Warming up the printed model allows you to remove internal stresses that inevitably arise during the printing process. In addition, heating contributes to the evaporation of alcohol from the model after washing, which also has a positive effect on the mechanical characteristics of the resulting part. It is also not worth overheating or overexposing the part in the oven, this leads to cracks.

A lot of revisions

In my practice, most often I have to redo interface layouts several times. This is due to the fact that when working on them, new information is revealed.

To minimize the number of such situations, it is necessary to conduct a detailed analysis of the user's problem and work out interaction scenarios. As mentioned above, the designer should be involved from the very beginning.

With interaction scenarios in hand, you can move on.

I experienced it myself when I worked as a UX designer. From the very beginning, I tried to make high-quality prototypes for the entire interaction scenario. It took a lot of time, and after demonstrating the result, the team found that a lot of things needed to be redone. This led to the failure of deadlines and greatly demotivated.

Build your workflow so that you get feedback from the team, customer or users faster and make changes based on it.

Elephant leg

The first layers of the model are wider and protrude beyond the boundaries of the model. This is due to the fact that the upper layers put pressure on the first ones that have not yet cooled down and flatten them.

High table temperature

Too high table temperature causes the bottom layers to remain soft for a long time. Try lowering the table temperature. It is better to reduce gradually (in increments of 5 degrees). You can try to turn on the blower when printing the first layers.

Small gap between nozzle and platen

If the nozzle is too close to the platen when printing the first layer, excess plastic will be forced out. After a few coats, this will not be as noticeable, but can lead to the effect of an “elephant's foot”.

Part up and down speed

Stage up speed is very important to get a good side surface. A smooth tear-off will keep the supports intact and prevent the destruction of the model during the printing process. This is most relevant for soft materials such as HARZ Labs Dental Cast, Dental Pink Soft and Industrial Flex where the nature of the materials requires them to be sufficiently soft.

Stage lift height

During the printing process, the part sticks not only to the stage, but also to the cuvette film. When the table begins to rise, the film follows the model and, arching, breaks away from the part. If you choose too low a lift height, then the part simply will not come off and will continue to move with the film until, after several layers, it reaches the desired height and breaks away from the film. Naturally, such a seal can be safely sent to marriage.

Delay time before printing

Many users neglect this setting, underestimating its effect on the print result. To assess its impact on print quality, you need to understand a little about the mechanics of the process. When the stage is lowered, some polymer pressure is created on the cuvette, although it is not great, it is enough to bend the printer screen and increase the gap between the stage and the cuvette film. Accordingly, if you start printing at this moment, you can get a rough side surface of the product.

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