3D printer rods
Rod best 3D printing files・Cults
Another Hot Rod Style Fuel Tank for scale model autos and dioramas Model 5
€2.19
Another Hot Rod Style Fuel Tank for scale model autos and dioramas Model 4
€2.32
Another Hot Rod Style Fuel Tank for scale model autos and dioramas Model 3.2
€2.32
Another Hot Rod Style Fuel Tank for scale model autos and dioramas Model 3
€2.32
1/24 scale dash panel
€0.65
Another Hot Rod Style Fuel Tank for scale model autos and dioramas
€2.39
1/24 1/25 scale chevy valve covers
€1
1/24 scale prostock/ prostreet floor pan
€5. 03
stripper striker
Free
Ford Model A key silhouette
€1
Delica L400 hood rod clip
Free
Ceiling mount fishing rod holder
Free
Cragar Super Trick Drag Set
€6.04
Zap Rod from Andor Series
€5.99
baith fish For Real
€5
1/25 Telescopic Fishing Rod and Reel for model kit / diorama
€3.22
SAILOR URANUS Space Sword STL Files [Sailor Moon Crystal]
€16.16
SAILOR PLUTO Garnet Rod STL Files [Sailor Moon Crystal] Active
€19.39
Cross block for round 12mm rod
€3. 50
Guide rail clamp for round 12mm rod
€3.50
Ford Flathead Automeccanica Blown Engine Complete
€10.06
Ford Flathead Automeccanica Blower kit assembly
€6.03
2 in 1 Filament Guide and Cable Holder
Free
feeder support
€3.25
Fishing Rod Holder
€1.61
Pocket Fishing Rod
Free
Fishing Bombarda
Free
1/64 Scale V8_Double Engine Diecast For Hot Rod With Long Chasis
€2.57
Vintage racing car
€2.50
SNRC LCG KIT ANTI TWEAK ADAPTER FOR 10MM CARBON ROD TUBE
€0. 75
Kirby star rod
€1.30
Closet Rod End Hanger
Free
Magnetic Ball Joint Rod Ends
Free
SIMPSON LOGO + FACES (EASY PRINT)
€0.99
LOGO LOS SIMPSON (EASY PRINT)
€0.95
Endstop Holder
Free
HALLOWEEN RAT ROD SPYDER WEB - HEADER - GRILL - STEERING WHEEL / MODEL KIT / RC / CUSTOM DIECAST
€10.07
D8 Rod Stopper
Free
P3STEEL Rod Clamp 8mm
Free
ford 32 3 window coupe
€20.50
SPARK PLUG DISTRIBUTOR IGNITION CANISTER
Free
Wheels for old Car Ford Hot rod.
Scale 1\8€6.20
Ice Fishing Shelter Rod Holder
Free
90 degree angle rod connector
Free
DRAG RACING PARACHUTE 4 - FOR MODEL KIT - RC - CUSTOM DIECAST
€5.54
Connecting Rod
Free
Curtain rod part
€1
32 Ford style Rat Rod Chassis with bagged suspension. 1/25 1/24 scale
€6.88
Mild steel smooth rod|8 mm / 100 cm | 3D printing experts
Overview Description Specifications
Affordable Mild steel rod for linear motion or structural parts of your 3D printer.
- Type: Mild steel
- Diameter: 8 mm
- Length: 100 cm
Stock - NL: >50
€ 6. 16 excl VAT In stock
Dispatches same business day!
Diameter
8 mm
10 mm16 mm
Product description
Affordable Mild steel rod for linear motion or structural parts of your 3D printer. Easy to cut yourself and pre lubrecated.
Smooth rod 8 mm is a versatile product made from Mild steel which can be used in combination with LM10UU linear ball bearings to achieve linear motion. Due to the material of this bar, the bar may show grooves after longer time of use. Instead people may choose to RJ4JP-01-10 Drylin linear bushing in combination with this bar to avoid this or use the hardened steel version of the bar, also available on this site. This bar can be easily cut to length yourself, or you can buy a pre-cut custom length of the bar.
If you order this product, you will get one piece of , mostly packed in a separate package due to the size.
Specifications
General properties | |
---|---|
sku | M8SMOOTH |
gtin | 8719128323428 |
Material | Mild steel |
Threaded | |
Bar form | Round |
Dimensions | |
Length | 100 cm |
Diameter | 8 mm |
Price breaks
1 - 4: | excl € 6. 16 |
5 - 9: | excl € 5.54 |
10 - : | excl € 4.31 |
Need a larger quantity? Contact our Sales department. |
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Zumart 9000 3D- pen for a 3D printer, fixing a bad print / Sudo Null IT News
Almost everyone has heard about 3D pens. Many have tried them, many have them. So, perhaps, this gadget will surprise no one. And, probably, if there is a 3D printer at home, then the pen against its background will look very funny. But... Do not rush, a 3D pen can become an indispensable assistant and a very handy tool for any maker. Now, using my example, I will show how easy it is to save a three-dimensional model that took 41 hours to print using a 3D pen.
Let's start by inspecting the gadget.
Everything is standard, the box contains instructions, power supply and the pen itself.
Power supply cable length 1.4 m, should be enough for most outlets near tables.
12 volt, 3 amp power supply.
At idle, it easily gives out the declared volts, I didn’t measure the current, sorry. Let's go straight to the test.
Pen like a pen. Of the interesting - this is the specified nozzle diameter - 0.7 mm. A big plus for me personally is that the pen is omnivorous. You can print both PLA and ABS. There is also a manual temperature control.
Mode selection is intuitive. You just need to press the buttons on the sides of the screen.
Next, press the feed button, you can release it once. Heating starts. Heats up quickly, faster than a 3D printer.
When the desired temperature is reached, the indicator to the left of the screen changes from red to green.
In addition to adjusting the temperature, there is an adjustment for plastic feed (speed) on the handle.
On the other side of the feed adjustment there are 2 buttons - “squeeze out” and “pull out”.
Filled for the first test with a piece of plastic left over from the last print.
On the first delivery, you can see that there was already some plastic in the nozzle. This is good, since the handle was really checked. Some printer manufacturers supply them with a printed figure on the table, the user immediately sees that the device is working and prints as it should.
I had a test plastic right away for a reason, I refilled transparent SBS, it is quite soft and often there are problems with it when printing on a printer. Here, everything immediately went briskly.
A small digression.
I was given a set of plastic along with the pen.
3D palette.
By the way, a very good addition to the 3D pen. In addition to conveniently located plastic in separate pockets, there is a compartment for storing a pen, as well as an envelope with sketches on tracing paper for easy creation of three-dimensional models.
We take a tracing paper and draw glasses along the contour.
Once the plastic has cooled, it can be easily removed from the tracing paper. We're filming.
Draw the second bow.
Next, melt the temples to the glasses.
PLA plastic is very pleasant to work with, easy to soften and stick to each other. But there is one drawback, it should not be overheated, it becomes too fluid, but more on that later.
Glasses are ready.
Now let's get down to business. I printed a Pinky monster figurine from DOOM 3. Printing did not work right away, the model is very complex with spikes and other details sticking out in all directions. I printed both in 2 extruders with supports from HIPS, and with supports generated in MeshMixer. But when moving to the beginning of the hands, something always fell off and I had to stop printing. Perhaps the plastic is to blame, it is almost a year old and it was stored without a package and a box, just like that.
In general, for the third time I combined printing methods and added supports from HIPS plastic to the model with supports from MeshMixer. In the middle of printing, I saw that my hands were torn off again, but I spat and finished printing to the end, deciding to simply glue the damaged parts.
The parts have been reprinted and now with a 3D pen I can easily glue them to the main model.
With such a seam, glued parts are obtained, but firmly. And the protruding excess plastic can be ground off or cut off with a knife after treatment with dichloromethane.
Saw off the muzzle.
And glue a new, high-quality one.
This is a darned creation of Frankenstein.
Here you can see the comparison of the quality of the old and new muzzle.
Let's move on to the hands. It’s more difficult here, in some places it turned out to be a big gap.
But, in principle, the handle easily copes with wide gaps.
It remains only to process the seams.
I didn't sand or sharpen them dry. I decided to treat the entire model with methylene chloride, it dissolves both PLA and ABS equally well.
The seams have become smoother, but most importantly, the top layer of plastic has become soft and can be easily cut with a knife, like plasticine. Align all the seams, cutting off the excess, and once again go through the brush with DCM.
And here is the result:
Finally, let's look inside the 3D pen.
Remove the black tip and unscrew one single screw.
Here you can see a ceramic nozzle with a heater and a thermistor, a short bowden tube and an extruder on a simple brushed motor. The feed is controlled by the rotation speed of the motor shaft. On the motor there is a small brass gear pushing through plastic, on the other hand, all this is pressed by a small bearing with a flat side. In general, everything is very simple, like Kalash. Yes, and remember, I wrote about the fact that you should not overheat PLA plastic. In the disassembled photo, it is noticeable that there is something red on the back of the heater, where the tube enters it. It's just PLA plastic, I painted it a little in the heating mode for ABS, and it became so liquid that it went in the opposite direction.