3D printer make your own

How to Build a 3D Printer From Scratch

If you are reading this article that means that you’ve probably decided to join the community of 3d printing enthusiasts and find out more about 3d printers, or maybe you have already got some experience in it and are ready to try to create your own 3d printer from scratch.

In this article you will find general understanding how 3D printers can be built as well as links to really useful resources where you can find more detailed information with step-by-step description.

Currently there is a big variety of 3d printers in the Internet that already assembled and are ready to print right after you unpack them from a box, of course you also need to buy a 3d printer filament for it. Do not forget that not all 3d printers can use the same filament types, so please read the instruction before you purchase it.

But for some people who love to make something new with their own hands can be more interesting to build their own 3d printer from scratch. Based on our research the 3D printing community is filled with many enthusiastic people so called DIY’ers (Do It Yourself’ers), who are fascinated with building 3d printers literally almost from scratch.

Good example of it is RepRap movement. RepRap is short for a Replicating Rapid-prototyper. In other words it is the self-replicating 3d printer. In fact most of today’s top consumer level 3D printers (picture above) are originated in one way or another from RepRap.

You can find a lot of examples on how to build a 3d printer from scratch on RepRap website, but we also want to describe some of more essential steps in order to give an overall understanding of what to expect if you really decide to make your own 3d printer.

The first step is to find and buy 3d printer DIY kit. Kits usually contain most of parts needed to assemble the printer and can be divided into two main types:

Scratch Built 3D Printer – This 3d printer DIY kit is for those who prefer to build thing from scratch, or in other words go to DIY RepRap route. Apart from some essential advantages this approach has also its disadvantages. In theory it can save you some money and since you build it from scratch you will know every nut and bolt in it by the time you can use it and successfully print your first object. Main disadvantage of this method is time. Literally it will take a lot of time to deal with all these hundreds of bolts, wires, belts and much other stuff. In the end you still need to select and purchase or build a controller board, but it depends on your skills level.

Kit Built 3D Printer – This type of kit is good if you want to save some money and at the same time not to deal with all challenges described in the 1st kit type. Many manufactures sell such kits with “easy-to-assemble” instructions included. I doubt that it will be as easy as assemble a chair from IKEA, so you still have to be mechanically inclined and able to understand basic geometry. Some of such kits contain not all parts and you may need to buy something in addition.

The next step will be to determine the design for your 3D printer. In my humble opinion most of DIY 3D printers have not very breathtaking and futuristic design in comparison with MakerBot and other brands. But it is also a matter of taste, for some people the design is not very important.

Once you have got your 3d print DIY kit and chosen the design you could go ahead and start the most fascinating and time consuming part – build your own 3d printer. Be prepared for sleepless nights and a lot of fun. Maybe you will make up something new and present your findings to RepRap community.

When the hardware part of the 3d printer is ready you also need to add a software component to it. It basically does the following things: allows you to view and alter 3d graphical objects, as well as converts the 3d images into instructions that 3d printer can understand.

Finally you can 3d print your first object! If you do not have anything to print, you can find a big variety of objects on specialized marketplaces such as Shapeways, Thingiverse and others. Before printing make sure that the object you want to 3d print has the right size and fit on the printer frame.

At the end there is a list of some links where you can find more information about how to build your own 3d printer from scratch:

RepRap options
3D Printer DIY: How to Build Your Own 3D Printer from Scratch
3D Printing: Build Your Own 3D Printer and Print Your Own 3D Objects
Arduino Controlled CNC / 3D Printer Hybrid
El34 World – 3D Printer Build using 1 inch T-Slot extrusions
CNET 3D Printer Build Week

Also watch a video from Ben Heck in which he answers on some 3d printing related questions.

What is 3d printing – 3D printing technologies overview
What is 3D Printing?
History of 3D Printing
Direct and Binder 3D Printing techniques
Photopolymerization and Sintering
3D Printing Process
3D printing revolution
3D Printing Materials
How to choose a right 3D printer filament type
3D Printer Filament Types Overview
Types of 3D printers or 3D printing technologies overview
How to find and buy a right 3D printer
History of 3D printing in one picture
Places to download 3D printer files and files formats overview
3D Printing Services Overview
You Should Know These Important 3D Printing Concepts

Best DIY 3D Printer Kits & Build Plans 2022

Building your own DIY 3D printer can be an affordable option to get started 3d printing as well as a learning experience as one gets familiar with the mechanics or the nuts and bolts of a 3D printer. You learn how it works and how to fix it when it breaks. Building a 3d printer is more challenging than buying a completely assembled machine that’s ready to print. In this article, we review the best DIY 3d printers and list some of the options available. Here’s a guide for the list of considerations when planning your 3d printer build.

Documentation & Assembly Guides
DIY Kits vs Pre-Assembled 3D Printers
Self-Source Parts vs DIY Kits
Documentation
Community
Build Volume
3D Printer Kinematics

Table Of Contents

DIY 3D Printer Build Advantages
DIY 3D Printer Build Disadvantages
DIY 3D Printer Kits vs Pre-Assembled Printers
Complete 3D Printer Kits vs Open Source Build Plans
Self-Source Parts
Advantages of Building Your Own 3D Printer
Challenges In Building Your Own 3D Printer
Open-Source 3D Printers & Build Plans
3D Printer Kits vs Pre-Assembled
- Complete 3D Printer Kits
- Self Sourced DIY 3D Printer Plans
Railcore II 300ZL
Pros & Cons
Hypercube Evolution – H. E.V.O.
Voron 2.4
Rat Rig V-Core 3
The Evolution of The RepRap Project
Self-Source Parts vs DIY Kits
Cantilever Bed vs 3-point Bed Leveling
Lead Screw vs Ball Screw vs Belt Drive
Lead Screw vs Belt
Lead Screw Pitch & Required Torque
Build volume
Rods vs Linear Rails
White Knight: DIY Conveyor Belt 3D Printer
Best Large DIY 3D Printers 2023
Modix BIG-40
Raise3D Pro2 Plus
BigRep – STUDIO G2
Piper 2: Piper 3D Printers Made From Conduit Pipe
Gantry 3D Printer Design – Reducing Moving Mass
Large Scale 3D Printing vs Batch Printing

DIY 3D Printer Build Advantages

DIY 3d printer plans make it easier to get started and are a great option for beginners who want to learn how the mechanics work. The kits usually come with everything you need such as tools, parts, and instructions which take out some of the guesswork when building your printer.

DIY 3D Printer Build Disadvantages

Building a printer can be challenging and time-consuming. There are many things that can go wrong, so it’s important to have some experience with building or repairing electronic devices before starting this project. Also, you may not have all the parts you need, which could lead to delays in printing.

DIY 3D Printer Kits vs Pre-Assembled Printers

There are pros and cons to each option. If you choose a kit, it’s important to consider how much time you have for assembly, the difficulty level of the project, your budget, versatility options (e.g., build volume or filament types supported), and the quality of the community support.

Complete 3D Printer Kits vs Open Source Build Plans

While many printer designs are available in complete kits some open source designs are currently still self-sourced, meaning that builders will have to source individual 3d printer parts and get it all together which results in complexity as some parts may take long to receive and increases the chance that one might order the wrong part number. With that said, is the price still about the same depending on extruder options print size.

Self-Source Parts

A common option is to source all your own parts. This can be more affordable, but it takes more time and effort to find compatible parts and can be difficult depending on experience level. The advantage of this approach is that you can customize your printer to fit your needs.

Advantages of Building Your Own 3D Printer

There are several advantages of building your own DIY printer:

-You learn how the machine works and can troubleshoot problems on your own.
It can be more affordable than buying a pre-assembled printer.
You can customize your printer to fit your needs.
The community is usually very helpful and supportive.

DIY Printer Build

Challenges In Building Your Own 3D Printer

There are also some disadvantages of building your own printer:

It can be more challenging than buying a pre-assembled machine.
There’s a higher chance of something going wrong during the build process.
You may not have all the parts you need, which could lead to delays in printing.

The best DIY printer for your needs depends on your level of experience, budget, and goals. We hope this article provides some helpful advice for choosing the right printer kit for you. Happy building

Open-Source 3D Printers & Build Plans

Documentation is important when choosing a 3d printer to build or buy and effects overall user experience. Poor documentation can lead to downtime as users assemble or troubleshoot their machine to get it printing. Look for kits or build plans that are well documented and comprehensive for your skill level. Good documentation will also include tips and tricks for getting the best 3d prints, troubleshooting common problems that you may experience.

3D Printer Kits vs Pre-Assembled

When it comes to the Best DIY kit printers, there are many options. The advantages of a pre-assembled machine is that they usually come with some documentation and have been assembled by someone else so you can trust in them being functional machines already. This makes them less complicated than self sourced kits and more appealing to beginners.

Complete 3D Printer Kits

If you’re not comfortable with sourcing your own parts from various suppliers, there are also pre-assembled printers available. These machines come with everything or almost everything to assemble a working machine, including all of the screws and tools needed.

Complete 3d printer kits make it easier to get up and running rather than sourcing all the parts yourself from different suppliers with different shipping dates or quality. It is also a great way of saving money on shipping which can be quite costly when buying small amounts of parts.

The downside of a pre-assembled machine is that they can be more expensive than DIY kits, lack upgradability, and might not have the best quality control.

Self Sourced DIY 3D Printer Plans

When sourcing your own parts for a printer there are a few things you need to take into account: what type of printer do you want to build, what parts do you need and where can you source them from.

The best 3d printer kits give a great range of options depending on performance needs and budget. Beginners can start off with an unassembled diy kit which is less expensive than pre-assembled machines.

Railcore II 300ZL

This is a pre-assembled machine that comes with an excellent build guide and video tutorial. It uses a CoreXY motion system which gives it good print quality and speed. The kit can be sourced from different sellers, or you could buy the fully assembled machine directly from Printed Solid.

Pros & Cons

Each of these kits have their own pros and cons, so it’s important to do your own research before settling on a printer. For example, the Rat Rig V-Core uses a corexy kinematics which is known for its speed and accuracy, but can be more difficult to calibrate.

Original Prusa i MKS+

This kit is based on the popular Original Prusa i MKS printer and comes with an excellent build guide. It’s a great option if you want to get started right away with minimal assembly.

Hypercube Evolution – H.E.V.O.

This kit is a great option for those looking for an upgradeable machine. It comes with a variety of parts that can be swapped out or upgraded as needed.

Voron 2.4

This open source design is great for experienced builders and offers good print quality and speed.

When sourcing your own parts, it’s important to do your research and decide which seller to use and consider shipping rates.

Rat Rig V-Core 3

The Rat Rig V-Core 3 is a great option for those looking for a specific size or options as kits can be configured for specific needs or price. The complete printer kit comes in a range of options with a well documented build guide and instructions. The V-core 3 uses the CoreXY motion system which offers good print quality and speed. The v-core 3 kit can be purchased from the Rat-Rig website, or could be self sourced.

The Evolution of The RepRap Project

Self-Source Parts vs DIY Kits

When sourcing your own parts, there are a few things to take into account: what build volume is needed and type of parts to use which is usually related to how much you’re willing to spend.

There are a range of options for extruders and electronics, so it’s important to decide on the features you need. If you want a machine with high resolution, then you will need more precise parts which can be expensive.

Cantilever Bed vs 3-point Bed Leveling

While many of the original DIY 3d printers used cantilever beds to lift the print bed or build plate constrained POM wheels or smooth rods. The newer 3d printer designs use linear rails and have adopted more functional mechanisms such as belted z-axis, and non-planar 3d printing concepts such as 3-point bed leveling or tilting print beds. Although the simplicity of older Reprap 3d printers were less technical and easier for newbies, the increasing number of options and features can easily be adopted from corexy design platform to another, which has exponentially inspired contributors as they work to identify or fix potential issues or increase overall print volume.

Lead Screw vs Ball Screw vs Belt Drive

Mechanical components and kinematics are critical to the functionality and can compromise speed or quality. Lead screw which is commonly used to drive the z-axis or lift the print bed is known for backlash but backlash can be eliminated using anti backlash nuts or may not be an issue due to gravity. Lead screw pitch and lead is critical for speed and precision. Issues with speed, resonance, artifacts can be a challenge in any 3d printer build but can be reduced by travel speed and acceleration but is compromised with slower travel speed the longer it takes to print an object.

Lead Screw vs Belt

Quality lead screws and ball screws cost much more but cheap lead screws can have tolerance issues. Longer ball screws may wobble at a distance and need support and rigidity. Although backlash is mostly a problem in XY-axis movements while the z-axis is the preloaded weight of the bed and gravity.

Lead Screw Pitch & Required Torque

Lead screws are similar to a gear. When the pitch changes the lead and torque needed to drive the system changes as well. Most 3D printers use 1/16 or 1/32 microstepping but the resolution of 3d printed plastic can only be so precise. Larger motors have more inductance and need more voltage to reach the same RPM. Increasing the step rate for the reduced travel rate of the drive, a higher voltage stepper driver and supply may be needed to reach ideal motor performance.

Build volume

Build volume refers to the print bed size which dictates the maximum size of 3d printed objects.

Rods vs Linear Rails

Many of the earlier 3d printers were designed around cheaper mechanical parts such as carbon rods or stainless steel smooth rods which were once commonly used and recommended. As the cost of linear rails become cheaper and cheaper due to the economy of scale and increasing number of buyers and large volume production of manufactures and suppliers. 8mm steel rods and linear bearings are slowly being somewhat phased out but still used on cheap kits found on Aliexpress.

White Knight: DIY Conveyor Belt 3D Printer

The White Knight 3D Printer is a belt printer designed by Carl from NAK3DDesigns. The Unlimited Z-Axis has a large build area for continuous 3d printing.

Best Large DIY 3D Printers 2023

Large scale 3d printers are becoming more accessible to the average user as open-source designs continue to improve. One challenge of large scale 3d printing is bed leveling and layer adhesion Deciding on a large 3d printer to build or buy is a balance between price and reliability. In this section, we review and list the best large scale 3d printers available.

Large-scale 3d printing is increasing in demand as 3d printing becomes more accessible. Large scale printers allow users to 3d print large objects that would otherwise be constructed from multiple smaller printed objects from smaller machines.

Modix BIG-40

Made In Israel
Build Volume 400 × 400 × 800 mm
Price $5,000

Modix specializes in large format 3D printers that are available in DIY self-assembly kits, which is a much more affordable 3d printer compared to the larger commercial 3d printers on the market.

The Modix BIG-40 is an industrial grade machine that uses a dual-zone heated bed and a PEI print surface with auto bed leveling and an enclosure option.

Raise3D Pro2 Plus

Made In US
Build Volume 305 × 305 × 605 mm
Price $5,999
Extruder/Hotend Dual Extruder

Raise3D is known for their high quality 3d printers that are made in the USA. The Pro2 Plus is the latest release which offers the largest build volume compared to their other Raise3D models.

The Pro2 Plus has a 305 mm x 305 mm x 605 mm build area and reaches temps up to 300°C which allows users to expand their range of materials to print with.

BigRep – STUDIO G2

Made In Germany

Build Volume 500 × 1000 × 500 mm

Price $60,000

The BigRep STUDIO is a large format 3d printer designed to print engineer grade materials and uses dual extrusion ruby nozzles for abrasive materials. The large machine is equipped with a dual filament chamber with each chamber independent controlled temperature environments and features a touchscreen interface and the BigRep BLADE software.

Piper 2: Piper 3D Printers Made From Conduit Pipe

Piper 2: Piper 3D Printers Made From Conduit Pipe.

Piper 2 by Piper 3D Printers is a open source corexy DIY 3d printer design made from conduit pipe.

see Piper 3D Printers

see Midwest RepRap DIY 3D Printer Festival

Gantry 3D Printer Design – Reducing Moving Mass

Many earlier 3d printers kinematics use the classic “bed-slinger” design that originated from the early Reprap designs. As 3d printer builders and designers gradually pushed the limits of scalability, the classic y-axis traveling bed kinematics became more problematic. Although there are large scale 3d printers that work fine with this mechanical arrangement, they are often using industrial grade hardware such as linear rails and ball screws driven with high end servo motors to maintain print head position at all times, print beds that travel laterally, typically along the Y-axis.

While a simple and cheap solution for kinematics that works for countless desktop 3D printers, this potentially poses a challenge to a large-format 3D printer in that it’s putting a lot of moving mass on one of the two main axes engaged in travel during printing. A large moving mass consisting of the print bed, the carriage it’s riding on, and the increasing weight of the print being deposited on it means greater inertia to overcome with each direction change in that axis.

The timing belt tightness and the linear guides may be rigid enough to handle the inertia, but the frequent direction changes can leave artifacts such as ghosting on 3d printed objects. Not only this, a print that has poor adhesion to the print bed, moving vigorously back and forth through the Y-axis, can risk the success of the print.

These problems are not an issue for large-format 3D printers which use a static bed setup that is stationary and moving only through the Z-axis layer changes. While the motion system is more complex it can maintain the mechanical advantage compared to “bed-slinging” designs.

Large Scale 3D Printing vs Batch Printing

Large volume 3d printers can be considered as a great solution for batch printing, or alternate to multiple smaller 3d printers. A typical sized object or print job can be arranged and stacked for mass production. However, a print farm can complete a large quantity run or job quicker than a single object 3d printed as a batch of 3d printed objects are spread across a number of machines and can decrease the number of failed prints. Failed prints are isolated to a single machine without affecting the rest or potentially ruining the entire job.

Ryan Carlyle shows his Delta 3D Printer Design at MidWest Reprap Festival

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Building a home 3D printer with your own hands: recommendations from personal experience

3D printing and assembly of 3D printers is my hobby and passion. Here I will not share detailed diagrams and drawings, there are more than enough of them on specialized resources. The main goal of this material is to tell you where to start, where to dig and how to avoid mistakes in the process of assembling a home 3D printer. Perhaps one of the readers will be inspired by applied engineering achievements.

Why do you need a 3D printer? Use cases

I first came across the idea of 3D printing back in the 90s when I was watching the Star Trek series. I remember how impressed I was by the moment when the heroes of the cult series printed the things they needed during their journey right on board their starship. They printed anything: from shoes to tools. I thought it would be great someday to have such a thing too. Then it all seemed something incredible. Outside the window are the gloomy 90s, and the Nokia with a monochrome screen was the pinnacle of progress, accessible only to a select few.

Years passed, everything changed. Around 2010, the first working models of 3D printers began to appear on sale. Yesterday's fantasy has become a reality. However, the cost of such solutions, to put it mildly, discouraged. But the IT industry would not be itself without an inquisitive community, where there is an active exchange of knowledge and experience and who just let them dig into the brains and giblets of new hardware and software. So, drawings and diagrams of printers began to surface more and more often on the Web. Today, the most informative and voluminous resource on the topic of assembling 3D printers is RepRap - this is a huge knowledge base that contains detailed guides for creating a wide variety of models of these machines.

I assembled the first printer about five years ago. My personal motivation to build my own device is quite prosaic and based on several factors. Firstly, there was an opportunity to try to realize the old dream of having your own device, inspired by a fantasy series. The second factor is that sometimes it was necessary to repair some household items (for example, a baby stroller, car elements, household appliances and other small things), but the necessary parts could not be found. Well, the third aspect of the application is "near-working". On the printer, I make cases for various IoT devices that I assemble at home.

Agree, it is better to place your device based on Raspberry Pi or Arduino in an aesthetically pleasing "body", which is not a shame to put in an apartment or take to the office, than to organize components, for example, in a plastic bowl for food. And yes, you can print parts to build other printers :)

There are a lot of scenarios for using 3D printers. I think everyone can find something of their own.

A complex part in terms of drawing that I printed on my printer. Yes, it's just a figurine, but it has many small elements

Ready solution vs custom assembly

When a technology has been tested, its value in the market decreases markedly. The same thing happened in the world of 3D printers. If earlier a ready-made solution cost simply sky-high money, then today acquiring such a machine is more humane for the wallet, but nevertheless not the most affordable for an enthusiast. There are a number of solutions already assembled and ready for home use on the market, their price range ranges from $500-700 (not the best options) to infinity (adequate solutions start from a price tag of about $1000). Yes, there are options for $150, but we, for understandable, I hope, reasons, will not dwell on them.

In short, there are three cases to consider a finished assembly:

when you plan to print not much and rarely;
when print accuracy is critical;
you need to print molds for mass production of parts.

There are several obvious advantages to self-assembly. The first and most important is cost. Buying all the necessary components will cost you a maximum of a couple of hundred dollars. In return, you will receive a complete 3D printing solution with the quality of manufactured products acceptable for domestic needs. The second advantage is that by assembling the printer yourself, you will understand the principles of its design and operation. Believe me, this knowledge will be useful to you during the operation of even an expensive ready-made solution - any 3D printer needs to be serviced regularly, and it can be difficult to do this without understanding the basics.

The main disadvantage of assembly is the need for a large amount of time. I spent about 150 hours on my first build.

What you need to assemble the printer yourself

The most important thing here is the presence of desire. As for any special skills, then, by and large, in order to assemble your first printer, the ability to solder or write code is not critical. Of course, understanding the basics of radio electronics and basic skills in the field of mechanics (that is, "straight hands") will greatly simplify the task and reduce the amount of time that needs to be spent on assembly.

Also, to start we need a mandatory set of parts:

Extruder is the element that is directly responsible for printing, the print head. There are many options on the market, but for a budget build, I recommend the MK8. Of the minuses: it will not be possible to print with plastics that require high temperatures, there is noticeable overheating during intensive work, which can damage the element. If the budget allows, then you can look at MK10 - all the minuses are taken into account there.
Processor board. The familiar Arduino Mega is well suited. I didn't notice any downsides to this solution, but you can spend a couple of dollars more and get something more powerful, with a reserve for the future.
Control board. I'm using RAMPS 1.4 which works great with the Arduino Mega. A more expensive but more reliable board is Shield, which already combines a processor board and a control board. In modern realities, I recommend paying attention to it. In addition to it, you need to purchase at least 5 microstep stepper motor controllers, for example - A4988. And it's better to have a couple of these in stock for replacement.
Heated table. This is the part where the printed element will be located. Heating is necessary due to the fact that most plastics will not adhere to a cold surface. For example, for printing with PLA plastic, the required surface temperature of the table is 60-80°C, for ABS - 110-130°C, and for polycarbonate it will be even higher
There are also two options for choosing a table - cheaper and more expensive. Cheaper options are essentially printed circuit boards with preheated wiring. To operate on this type of table, you will need to put borosilicate glass, which will scratch and crack during operation. Therefore, the best solution is an aluminum table.
Stepper motors. Most models, including the i2 and i3, use NEMA 17 size motors, two for the Z axis and one each for the X and Y axes. Finished extruders usually come with their own stepper motor. It is better to take powerful motors with a current in the motor winding of 1A or more, so that there is enough power to lift the extruder and print without skipping steps at high speed.
Basic set of plastic fasteners.
Belt and gears to drive it.

Examples of elements appearance: 1) MK8 extruder; 2) Arduino processor board; 3) RAMPS control board; 4) motor controllers; 5) aluminum heated table; 6) NEMA 17 stepper motor; 7) a set of plastic fasteners; 8) drive gears; 9) drive belt

This is a list of items to be purchased. Hardcore users can assemble some of them themselves, but for beginners, I strongly recommend purchasing ready-made solutions.

Yes, you will also need various small things (studs, bearings, nuts, bolts, washers ...) to assemble the case. In practice, it turned out that using a standard m8 stud leads to low printing accuracy on the Z axis. I would recommend immediately replacing it with a trapezoid of the same size.

M8 trapezoid stud for Z axis, which will save you a lot of time and nerves. Available for order on all major online platforms

You also need to purchase customized plastic parts for the X axis, such as these from the MendelMax retrofit kit.

Most parts available at your local hardware store. On RepRap you can find a complete list of necessary little things with all sizes and patterns. The kit you need will depend on the choice of platform (we'll talk about platforms later).

What's the price

Before delving into some aspects of the assembly, let's figure out how much such entertainment will cost for your wallet. Below is a list of parts required for purchase with an average price.

Platform selection

The community has already developed a number of different platforms for assembling printers - the most optimal case designs and the location of the main elements, so you do not have to reinvent the wheel.

i2 and i3 are key platforms for self-assembly printer enclosures. There are also many modifications of them with various improvements, but for beginners, these two classic platforms should be considered, since they do not require special skills and fine-tuning.

Actually, illustration of platforms: 1) i2 platform; 2) i3 platform

On the plus side of i2: it has a more reliable and stable design, although it is a little more difficult to assemble; more opportunities for further customization.

The i3 variant requires more special plastic parts to be purchased separately and has a slow print speed. However, it is easier to assemble and maintain, and has a more aesthetically pleasing appearance. You will have to pay for simplicity with the quality of printed parts - the body has less stability than i2, which can affect print accuracy.

Personally, I started my experiments in assembling printers from the i2 platform. She will be discussed further.

Assembly steps, challenges and improvements

In this block, I will only touch on the key assembly steps using the i2 platform as an example. Full step by step instructions can be found here.

The general scheme of all the main components looks something like this. There is nothing particularly complicated here:

I also recommend adding a display to your design. Yes, you can easily do without this element when performing operations on a PC, but it will be much more convenient to work with the printer this way.

Understanding how all components will be connected, let's move on to the mechanical part, where we have two main elements - a frame and a coordinate machine.

Assembling the frame

Detailed frame assembly instructions are available on RepRap. Of the important nuances - you will need a set of plastic parts (I already talked about this above, but I'd better repeat it), which you can either purchase separately or ask your comrades who already have a 3D printer to print.

The frame of the i2 is quite stable thanks to its trapezoid shape.

This is how the frame looks like with parts already partially installed. For greater rigidity, I reinforced the structure with plywood sheets

Coordinate machine

An extruder is attached to this part. The stepper motors shown in the diagram above are responsible for its movement. After installation, calibration is required along all major axes.

Important - you will need to purchase (or make your own) a carriage for moving the extruder and a mount for the drive belt. Drive belt I recommend GT2.

The carriage printed by the printer from the previous picture after it has been assembled. The part already has LM8UU bearings for guides and belt mount (top)

Calibration and adjustment

So, we completed the assembly process (as I said, it took me 150 hours) - the frame was assembled, the machine was installed. Now another important step is the calibration of this very machine and extruder. Here, too, there are small subtleties.

Setting up the machine

I recommend calibrating the machine with an electronic caliper. Do not be stingy with its purchase - you will save a lot of time and nerves in the process.

The screenshot below shows the correct constants for the Marlin firmware, which must be selected in order to set the correct number of steps per unit of measure. We calculate the coefficient, multiply it, substitute it into the firmware, and then upload it to the board.

Marlin 9 firmware constants0022

For high-quality calibration, I recommend relying on larger numbers in measurements - take not 1-1. 5 cm, but about 10. So the error will be more noticeable, and it will become easier to correct it.

Calibrating the extruder

When the frame is assembled, the machine is calibrated, we start setting up the extruder. Here, too, everything is not so simple. The main task of this operation is to correctly adjust the supply of plastic.

If underfeeding, the printed test item will have noticeable gaps, like test die 1. Conversely, the result will look bloated if plastic is overfed (dice 2)

Getting Started Printing

It remains for us to run some CAD or download ready-made .stl, which describe the structure of the printed material. Next, this structure needs to be converted into a set of commands understandable to our printer. For this I use the Slicer program. It also needs to be set up correctly - specify the temperature, the size of the extruder nozzle. After that, the data can be sent to the printer.

Slicer interface

As a raw material for printing, I recommend starting with regular ABS plastic - it is quite strong, products made from it are durable, and it does not require high temperatures to work with. For comfortable printing with ABS plastic, the table must be heated to a temperature of 110-130 ° C, and the extruder nozzle - within 230-260 ° C.

Some important details. Before printing, calibrate the machine along the Z axis. The extruder nozzle should be approximately half a millimeter from the table and ride along it without distortion. For this calibration, a regular sheet of A4 paper inserted between the nozzle and the surface of the heated table is best suited. If the sheet can be moved with little effort, the calibration is correct.

Another thing to keep in mind is the surface treatment of the heated table. Usually, before printing, the surface of the table is covered with something that hot plastic sticks to well. For ABS plastic, this can be, for example, Kapton tape. The disadvantage of adhesive tape is the need to re-glue it after several printing cycles. In addition, you will have to literally tear off the adhering part from it. All this, believe me, takes a lot of time. Therefore, if it is possible to avoid this fuss, it is better to avoid it.

An alternative option that I use instead of scotch tape is to apply several layers of ordinary light beer, followed by heating the table to 80-100 ° C until the surface is completely dry and re-applying 7-12 layers. It is necessary to apply the liquid with a cloth moistened with a drink. Among the advantages of this solution: ABS plastic separates from the table on its own when it cools down to about 50 ° C and is removed without effort, the table does not have to be peeled off, and one bottle of beer will last you for several months (if you use the drink only for technical purposes :)).

After we have collected and configured everything, we can start printing. If you have an LCD screen, then the file can be transferred for printing using a regular SD card.

The first results may have bumps and other artifacts - do not worry, this is a normal process of "grinding" the printer elements, which will end after a few print cycles.

Tips to make life easier (and sometimes save money)

In addition to the small recommendations given in the text above, in this section I will also give a short list of tips that will greatly simplify the operation of a 3D printer and the life of its owner.

Do not experiment with nozzles. If you plan to immediately print from materials that require high temperatures, then it is better to immediately take the MK10 extruder. On MK8, you can "hang" special nozzles that support high-temperature conditions. But such modifications often cause difficulties and require special experience. It is better to avoid this fuss on the shore by simply installing the right extruder for you.
Add starter relay for heated table. Improving the power supply system for this important printing part with a starter relay will help solve the known problem of RAMP 1.4 - overheating of the transistors that control the power of the table, which can lead to failure of the board. I made this upgrade after having to throw away a few RAMPS 1.4s.
Select the correct filament diameter for printing. I recommend using 1.75mm plastic for MK8 and MK10. If we take plastic, for example, 3 mm, then the extruder simply does not have enough strength to push it at an acceptable speed - everything will be printed much longer, and the quality will drop. ABS plastic is ideal for MK8, MK10 will be able to produce products from polycarbonate.
Use only new and precise X and Y guides. Print quality will be affected. It is difficult to count on good quality with bent or deformed guides along the axes.
Take care of cooling. During my experiments with various extruders, the MK10 showed the best results - it prints quite accurately and quickly. The MK10 can also print plastics that require a higher print temperature than ABS, such as polycarbonate. Although it is not as prone to overheating as its younger brother MK8, I still recommend taking care of its cooling by adding a cooler to your design. It must be permanently enabled, this option can be configured in Slicer. You can also add coolers to keep the stepper motors at an acceptable temperature, however, make sure that their air flows do not fall on the printed part, as this can lead to its deformation due to too rapid cooling.
Consider heat retention. Yes, on the one hand, we are struggling with overheating of the elements. On the other hand, a uniform temperature around the printer will contribute to high-quality printing (the plastic will be more pliable). To achieve a uniform temperature, you can put our printer, for example, in a cardboard box. The main thing is to connect and configure the coolers before that, as described above.
Consider insulating your desk. Heated table heats up to high temperatures. And if part of this heat leaves properly, heating the printed part, then the second part (from below) just goes down. To concentrate the heat from the table onto the part, you can perform an operation to insulate it. To do this, I simply attach a cork mouse pad to its bottom using stationery clips.

Pins

I am sure that during the assembly process you will encounter a number of difficulties specific to your project. Neither this text nor even the most detailed guides will insure against this.

As I wrote in the introductory part, the above does not claim the status of a detailed assembly manual. It is almost impossible to describe all the stages and their subtleties within the framework of one such text. First of all, this is an overview material that will help you prepare for the assembly process (both mentally and financially), understand whether you personally need to bother with self-assembly - or give up on everything and buy a ready-made solution.

For me, assembling printers has become an exciting hobby that helps me solve some issues in home and work affairs, take my mind off programming and do something interesting with my own hands. For my children - entertainment and the opportunity to get unusual and unique toys. By the way, if you have children whose age allows them to mess around with such things, such an activity can be a good help for entering the world of mechanics and technology.

For everyone, the vectors of using 3D printers will be very different and very individual. But, if you decide to devote your personal time to such a hobby, believe me, you will definitely find something to print :)

I will be glad to answer comments, remarks and questions.

What to read/see

what can be printed;
3D printer forum;
RepRap community site with model descriptions and assembly instructions;
printer that prints electronics.

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Topics: DIY, embedded, tech

How I printed a model of myself on a 3D printer...

3D modeling

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Don't want

Hello, dear readers!

After reading this article, you will learn how I printed a model of my face and body on a 3D printer!

It all started with the purchase of a Kingroon KP3S 3D printer, with a table size of 180 x 180 x 180 mm.

I already had a model of a woman ready, and immediately after assembling the printer, and I assembled it for 15 minutes in total, I sent this model for printing.

For a printer out of the box, and even not fully configured, the quality is normal.

After some manipulations with the printer, I managed to get a completely smooth surface of the figure after printing.

While watching videos on setting up a printer for printing, I came across a video showing a face modeling program.

This program is called DAZ3D. (perhaps there was already an article on this topic, do not throw slippers)

And the idea came to my mind to make a model of my own face and body. Maybe in the future and earn extra money on this, making 3D models of people and printing them to order. (but hardly anyone needs it)

You can download this program on the official website for free.

After installation, we see the initial page of the program.

And to create yourself you need to go to the tab Windows - Panes - Face Transfer.

After opening this plugin, you will only have to insert your photo.

Insert a photo, click male - a man (female - a woman) and click - Generate (generation).

A body appears with our face and you see what a resemblance!!!

It seems to be similar, but I hasten to upset you. This model is not suitable for printing.

The point is that our photograph is stretched onto a blank, onto a blank. And it seems to be plausible, but if we print this model, we will get a figure, well, not at all like us. The program tried to automatically repeat our facial features, but she did not do it very well.

What to do?

To create a 3D model of your face, you will have to work hard.

For this we buy an extension for DAZ 3D - MetaMixer Toolkit.

Quickly install and first create a blank. Genesis 8 Basic Male

may not be installed, you will have to buy ;-)

We are looking for and launching Meta Mixer.