3D printer filament sensor

Practical 3D printing: The importance of filament runout sensors

FDM (fused deposition modeling) 3D printers, better known as filament 3D printers, come in a wide range of models, at a wide range of prices, with many different features.

The feature we're going to talk about is the filament runout sensor. As you might imagine, this sensor tells the printer when it runs out of filament.

On printers with a smaller build area, this might not be all that important. That's because it's less likely that you'll run out of a spool of filament with a printer that can't print anything particularly large.

But what about large printers with large build areas? It's entirely possible you'll want to print something that will take more than one spool of filament.

Filament typically comes in 1kg spools. Yes, there are smaller spools available, as well as larger ones, but larger spools tend to get unwieldy. Remember that the spool has to unwind to feed the filament. The bigger the spool, the greater the pull force required. Also the bigger the spool, the larger the spool holding rig required.

I like to keep one of my printers loaded with ColorFabb's PLA Economy White, which comes in a 2.2kg spool. It's convenient for some of the bulk printing I do for some of our family projects.

That said, a good 90% of the time, I'm using a 1kg spool. As the attached video shows, a 1kg spool doesn't hold enough filament for some prints.

The problem is, many printers don't know when you run out of filament. They just pull in filament using a geared mechanism. That mechanism does no reporting back to the printer. It just feeds, melts, and extrudes.

Some printers, though, do have a sensor -- called a filament runout sensor or a filament break sensor -- that tells when a spool is empty or no filament is feeding. These sensors report back to the printer's internal processor. When a runout is reported, the printer moves the print head away from the print and lets everything cool down until you replace the filament.

Once you load a new spool and thread the filament through the extruder, you can tell the printer to continue. If everything works, printing picks up right where it left off.

Aria the Dragon ran out of white filament, so a little silver filament finished off her wings nicely.

The printer in the attached video is the $6,000 Ultimaker S5. But you don't need a super-expensive printer to have a filament runout sensor. The Creality Sermoon D1 is one-tenth the price, at $599, but it also comes with a filament runout sensor. Stay tuned. I'll have a full review on the Sermoon D1 up soon.

Even if your printer doesn't come with such a sensor, you can often add it. I'm linking to an $8 BIQU sensor that you can add to most printers.

I'm usually pretty good at working with the slicing program to estimate the amount of filament needed for my prints. But I have found myself relying on runout sensors, both for big prints and for spools that just happen to be near their end, as was the case with my print of Aria the Dragon.

My practical 3D printing advice is simple: if you're buying a new 3D printer, get one with a filament runout sensor. If you don't have one, see if it can be added and invest a few bucks to upgrade your printer. It's an inexpensive upgrade that can save you both time and money.

What's your favorite 3D printer feature? Do you have a filament runout sensor? Do you have a 3D printer? Let's talk 3D printing in the comments below.

You can follow my day-to-day project updates on social media. Be sure to follow me on Twitter at @DavidGewirtz, on Facebook at Facebook.com/DavidGewirtz, on Instagram at Instagram.com/DavidGewirtz, and on YouTube at YouTube.com/DavidGewirtzTV.

3D Printing

Should Your 3D Printer Have A Filament Run-Out Sensor?

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When a 3D printing project takes up the better part of a day (or even more), there’s a very good chance that your spool will run out of filament mid-print. This would not be a problem if you happen to be there at the right moment to swap in a fresh spool. However, missing that crucial moment will likely result in a failed print.

If you want to avoid the anxiety of such a situation, then you should consider getting a filament run-out sensor. What does this sensor do and how does it work? Is buying a third-party sensor an option for your 3D printer?

How does a filament run-out sensor work?

First off, we’re going to manage your expectations. If your 3D printer does not already have a built-in filament run-out sensor, then you will have to do a bit of work. There is no such thing as a “plug and play” filament run-out sensor. You will have to install the sensor to your printer, connect the cables to the printer’s motherboard, and make a few changes to the firmware.

Virtually all run-out sensors have a basic mechanical leaf switch sensor. This leaf switch is triggered by the motion of the filament. This means that there are two possible events that will cause the sensor to be triggered – the filament running out, or the filament getting stopped due to extrusion problems.

The leaf switch is integrated into a simple board that is housed inside a plastic casing for protection. Also integrated into this casing is a filament guide that ensures that the filament moves along the leaf switch.

The board can then be connected to a specific channel in the motherboard of the 3D printer. If the board is compatible with the 3D printer’s firmware, it can send an overriding G-Code command to the motherboard if the sensor gets triggered. This will cause the 3D printer to pause the current job so you can step in and make a filament swap.

Not all 3D printers play well with third-party filament run-out sensors. In such a case, some filament run-out sensors incorporate sound alarms or LED lights that will warn you if filament stops moving. Of course, this is only effective if you are within earshot or line of sight of the 3D printer. It’s not quite as worry-free as automatically pausing your 3D printer, but it’s better than nothing.

You will need a bit of coding know-how to make the necessary changes to your firmware. If you can do this via Octoprint, then that is the most convenient option. This isn’t incredibly tough, as some sensors already have plugins that you can simply download. If you have worked with a Raspberry Pi before, then you should not struggle much with a run-out filament sensor.

Best practices in installing a filament run-out sensor

Works best with Marlin firmware

Most third-party filament run-out sensors are designed to run with the Marlin firmware. Before buying one, make sure that your 3D printer runs on Marlin. Some sensors are also quite selective with the version number of Marlin that they can run on. As with any hardware, check compatibility before buying.

Install the sensor before the extruder

This should be fairly obvious, but we have seen one too many examples of Bowden extruders where the run-out sensor is installed after the extruder. Theoretically, the sensor will still work because it will still get triggered when the filament runs out. However, placing it after the extruder means that you have much less wiggle room to intervene and make a filament swap.

Use a PTFE tube to guide the filament from the sensor to the extruder

In most cases, the run-out sensor is installed at the top of the 3D printer right beside the spool. From the sensor, the filament runs directly to the extruder that is mounted on the moving print head (if you have a direct extruder).

The PTFE tube is a necessary measure because it avoids “false alarms.” Without a PTFE tube, the filament tends to get pulled along as the print head moves around the frame. This results in very short periods when there is no filament motion inside the sensor, thus a “positive” signal.

By placing a PTFE tube between the sensor and extruder, the filament moves along a constrained path with a set length. This prevents the filament from getting pulled along unnecessarily.

Recommended filament run-out sensors

1. BIGTREETECH SFS Smart Filament Sensor

The most widely used filament run-out sensor is this Smart Filament Sensor from BIGTREETECH. It works best with a BIGTREETECH motherboard but any model that comes with a break detection interface should work – the manufacturers specify a few SKR and MKS motherboards that should be compatible. This could mean having to replace the stock board of your 3D printer and compiling your own firmware. It can interface with any Marlin 2.0.X version.

The housing of the BIGTREETECH Smart Filament Sensor is significantly bigger than most other run-out sensors. This can make mounting it a bit challenging, especially for smaller 3D printers.

2. TriangleLab Filament Run-Out Sensor

This filament run-out sensor from TriangleLab is a cheaper and more compact option. As with other run-out sensors, this one comes with a 3-pin connector, the appropriate cables, and a PTFE tube to act as a filament guide. A nice feature of this sensor is that it allows for daisy-chaining in case your 3D printer comes with multiple extruders.

This sensor is designed to work with Marlin firmware with version 1. 1.0-RC7 or newer. If your board has an older version, you can update it manually using Octoprint. You will also need a filament runout plugin and specify the pin number to which the sensor is connected.

3. Sienoc 3D Filament Detection Module

This is likely one of the cheapest filament run-out sensors that you can buy, just in case you want to experiment with one and don’t want to spend too much. This sensor works well with an SKR board, but you will certainly need to update or modify the firmware.

While the sensor has a housing, it does not have a convenient means to mount it onto your 3D printer. As with other third-party sensors, the Sienoc Filament Detection Module does not come with instructions. You will have to figure out how to hook this up to your 3D printer yourself or look up instructional videos online.

One thing that complicates the setting up of this sensor is the fact its pins are mislabeled. According to user feedback, the signal and 5V terminals are swapped based on the labels. This is something to keep in mind when you buy this sensor, as you may end up frying your mainboard.

Final thoughts

A filament run-out sensor is one of the best and cheapest ways to upgrade your 3D printer. If you use your 3D printer heavily for large projects, then this sensor can help save some of your prints from failing.

Installing a filament run-out sensor is not something we can recommend for beginners. Not all mainboards are compatible with these sensors. There is a good chance that you will have to swap out the stock board of your 3D printer for something generic and modify its firmware. It would be worth the time to check out instructional videos on how to install a specific run-out sensor before buying it.

Warning; 3D printers should never be left unattended. They can pose a firesafety hazard.

Plastic break sensor (plastic end sensor)

Description

This sensor is an excellent solution for those who print a lot, as well as perform 3D printing on order.

The sensor is compatible with MKS touchscreens and can be installed on Prime X 3D printers.

The sensor is normally closed.

Firmware Setting

The required changes are similar to how you would set up a mechanical servo sensor.
Step1. Open your firmware in Arduino IDE. Find the following code in Configuration.h: Modify the code in the red box into:

// Number of servos

// If you select a configuration below, this will receive a default value and does not need to be set manually

// set it manually if you have more servos than extruders and wish to manually control some

// leaving it undefined or defining as 0 will disable the servo subsystem

// If unsure, leave commented / disabled

#define NUM_SERVOS 1 // Servo index starts with 0 for M280 command

// Servo Endstops

// This allows for servo actuated endstops, primary usage is for the Z Axis to eliminate calibration or bed height changes.

// Use M206 command to correct for switch height offset to actual nozzle height. Store that setting with M500.

#define SERVO_ENDSTOPS {-1, -1, 0} // Servo index for X, Y, Z. Disable with -1

#define SERVO_ENDSTOP_ANGLES {0.0, 0.0, 10.90} // X,Y,Z Axis Extend and Retract angles
Step2. Find the codes regarding to Bed Auto Leveling in Configuration.h.
//============================Bed Auto Leveling=============== ========

#define ENABLE_AUTO_BED_LEVELING // Delete the comment to enable (remove //at the start of the line)

define Z_PROBE_REPEATABILITY_TEST // If not commented out, Z-Probe Repeatability test will be included if Auto Bed Leveling is Enabled.

ifdef ENABLE_AUTO_BED_LEVELING

…

define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID

...

ifdef AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID

// set the rectangle which to probe

#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30

define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 200

define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 147

define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 20

Step3: scroll down to find the codes to Define the probe offset

…

define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 6
define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -43

define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -1. 4

Step4. Find the following code in pins.h If you do not find the pins.h tab on Arduino IDE, please open it separately, after the modification, please save it.

Find the code as shown in the red box:
/**************************************** *******************************

Ultimaker pin assignment
- - - - /

if MB(ULTIMAKER)
define KNOWN_BOARD

… #define Z_MAX_PIN -1 //32

define Z_ENABLE_PIN 35

…

define SUICIDE_PIN 54 //PIN that has to be turned on right after start, to keep power flowing.

#define SERVO0_PIN 32//13 // untested
Now, we have finished the firmware; please upload the modified firmware to your control board.

Testing

When the 3DTouch is first powered up it does a self test – Starting with the pin up it them goes down/up 3 times and ends up the the LED on solid. Continuous flashing means that there is an obstruction or fault.

The 3DTouch acts on the following gcode that can be used manually to diagnose faults etc but you don’t need to normally worry about them.

M280 P0 S10; pushes the pin down

M280 P0 S90 ; pulls the pin up

M280 P0 S120 ; Self test – keeps going until you do pin up/down or release alarm

M280 P0 S160; Release alarm

Alarm – The 3DTouch can sense when something is wrong and then goes into alarm mode which is continuous flashing. Alarm can be triggered like an obstruction that stops the pin going up and down freely, it could be dirt etc.

Printer setting

Providing the firmware is correctly configured, the sensor responds to the same codes as any other sensor eg inductive, capacitive or IR. The Start Code in you slicer should contain the sequence G28 followed by G29to do the auto levelling.

Don't put another G28 after the G29 as it will just remove the G29 results.

Open Slicer>printer setting

Add G29 command right after G28

Don’t put another G28 after the G29 as it will just remove the G29 results.

The G29 command should be added every time.

Here is a video of using the 3DTouch Auto Leveling Sensor on Geeetech Prusa I3 pro B 3d printer.

Calibration

These instructions are written to explain how to calibrate using a computer connected through the USB port to your printer. This process also assumes that the EEPROM has been enabled in Marlin.

From the command window of Repetier Host or Simplify3D etc enter the following:

M851 ; note the number

M851 Z0; set the offset to zero

G28

G1 Z0

The LCD display should show Z = 0

From the display go to the Menu then Prepare/Move axis/0. 1mm/Move Z

Now move the Z axis slowly down until the nozzle is the right distance from the build plate (folded piece of paper or thin card).

 *Note the Z axis value on the display it should be something like -1.5

M851 Z-1.5; to set the offset you got in the previous step.

M500; Stores the values in EEPROM so that it is not reset when you power the printer off and on.

Now you are ready to print.
If you find that you need to increase or decrease the gap then do:

M851 Z-1.4; this would make the gap bigger or

M851 Z-1.6 ; this would make the gap smaller

M500 ; to save the value to EEPROM

 *Remember the -1.4, -1.5 and -1.6 are just examples , yours will be different.

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PLA Plastic SEM 1.75 Chocolate Yellow PLA 1.75 from SEM is…

Price:

2000.00 RUB

PET-G - Transparent

PTEG plastic has: high impact resistance;…

Net weight - 1 kg (+/-50 g). Bar diameter 1.75 mm (+/- 0.05 mm). Recommended…

Price:

RUB 1700.00

Wireless radio module nRF24L01+ . Transmission frequency - 2.4GHz

nRF24L01+ - one of the options…

Supply voltage: 1.9V … 3.6V Current consumption at 0dBm power: 11.3 mA Current consumption at…

Price:

400. 00 RUB

Plastic gear coupling for MK8, stainless steel

Plastic gear coupling…

Price:

RUB 90.00

NodeMCU Motor Shield L293D for ESP8266 ESP-12E

The expansion board is based on…

Characteristics: Chip – L293; Number of channels for connection - 2: 2 DC motors; 1…

Price:

RUB 350.00

Bearing 625Z

Dimensions 16x5x5 mm.

Price:

RUB 60.00

Cooling fan for E3D V6 extruder

Fan with cooling mount…

Price:

RUB 400.00

PTFE Teflon Tube for RepRap Extruder VN Ф 2mm HP Ф4 mm

PTFE Teflon Tube for Bowden…

Price:

RUB 185. 00

Flanged bearing F623ZZ

Price:

RUB 90.00

Belt GT2 (closed) 200 mm.

Price:

RUB 180.00

PLA plastic SEM 1.75 blue

Material: PLA Colour: blue Diam…

PLA plastic SEM 1.75 blue PLA plastic SEM 1.75 blue is a polylactide thread for …

Price:

2000.00 rub. Thread M6.…

Price:

RUB 210.00

PET-G - Silver

PTEG plastic has: high impact resistance;…

Net weight - 1 kg (+/-50 g). Bar diameter 1.75 mm (+/- 0.05 mm). Recommended…

Price:

1700. 00 RUB

A4988 Stepper Motor Driver

Price:

RUB 250.00

3d TOUCH Sensor (auto level sensor for 3D printer)

Analogue of the BLTouch auto level contact sensor.

Automatic correction touch sensor for 3d printer, which can accurately measure the slope of the table surface. He…

Price:

1500.00 RUB

Kee Pang Mk8 3D printer extruder, red

Price:

RUB 800.00

Heating Cube V6 (20x16x12mm)

Heating Cube for V6 Hot End.

Material aluminum For 100 kΩ therm. Screws included.

Price:

RUB 120.00

Radiator Ender 3 CR10

Dimensions: Length - 27mm Width - 20mm Thickness - 13mm Diameter for thermal barrier - 7…

Price:

RUB 170. 00

MKS CD 57/86 Stepper Motor Driver

Expansion board for connecting an external…

The proposed board is installed in a standard slot for a stepper driver. Wire included.

Price:

RUB 500.00

Head Bad table for 3D printer 220x220mm. 3mm.

Price:

2500.00 RUB

Nozzle for 3D printer 0.4mm

Nozzle allows you to change the print quality…

Price:

RUB 90.00

Pneumatic fitting PC4-M6 for PTFE Teflon tube. Plastic 1.75mm

Pneumatic Connector PC4-M6 1.75mm…

Price:

180.00 RUB

CNC Shield V4.0 for Nano Board CNC

Compatible controllers: Arduino Nano Number of axes: 3 (X, Y, Z) Logic part supply voltage: 3. 3 -…

Price:

RUB 600.00

PLA plastic SEM 1.75, white

Material: PLA Color: white Diameter…

PLA plastic SEM 1.75 white Proprietary plastic for 3D printing — PLA plastic SEM 1.75…

Price:

2000.00 RUB

Radiator V6 (in stock)

There are several types, available in stock - Under fitting for bowden material supply. For Direct submission.

Price:

RUB 400.00

NodeMCU Lua Board (ESP8266 CP2102)

NodeMCU on ESP8266 module is… -20…

Price:

RUB 1200.00

Cube MK8 mini (16x16x12mm)

Small heating cube for hotend…

Material aluminum For thermistor 100kOM

Price:

Rs. Throat diameter: 7mm Throat thread: M6 Diameter: for 1.75mm

Price:

RUB 145.00

Sensor SN04-N NO

Inductive sensor (4 mm) If…

Price:

RUB 780.00

Nozzle cleaning drill 0.2 mm

To clean the nozzle…

Price:

RUB 70.00

Hotbed sticker (Adhesive table pad for 3D printer)

Size 200x200 mm.

Price:

RUB 500.00

PLA filament SEM 1.75 silver

Material: PLA Colour: silver Diameter…

PLA filament SEM 1.75 silver Branded PLA filament SEM 1.75 silver is a quality filament…

Price:

RUB 2000. 00

PET-G - Black

PTEG plastic has: high impact resistance;…

Net weight - 1 kg (+/-50 g). Bar diameter 1.75 mm (+/- 0.05 mm). Recommended…

Price:

RUB 1700.00

Airbrush nozzle for 3D printer (assorted)

Brass nozzle with steel tip.…

Price:

RUB 370.00

Chimera double extruder. Complete kit 2 nozzles 0.4 + fan

Double head bowden extruder…

Price:

1940.00 rub

Ceramic heater 50W 24v

3D printer hotend heater

F - 5mm Power - 50W Voltage - 24V Total length - 1 m

Price:

RUB 250.00

Pulley 20 teeth

Pulley for GT2 belt. 16…

Price:

RUB 150.00

PLA plastic SEM 1.75 green

Material: PLA Colour: green Diameter…

PLA plastic SEM 1.75 green Green polylactide filament for 3D printing, diameter 1.75mm is…

Price:

2000.00 RUB

Thermal barrier V6, MK8, CR-10 dual hotend 30mm

Assortment: Full metal Limited with PTEE

Material: stainless steel. Length - 30mm Neck diameter: 6mm Throat thread: M6 Diameter: for…

Price:

RUB 150.00

PET-G - Khaki

PTEG plastic has: high impact resistance;…

Net weight - 1 kg (+/-50 g). Bar diameter 1.75 mm (+/- 0.05 mm). Recommended…

Price:

1700. 00 RUB

Charger for 18650 Shield V3 Micro USB Port Type-USB 0.5A

Charger for 18650 Shield V3 Micro USB Port Type-USB 0.5A for Arduino, Raspberry…

Price:

RUB 550.00

Hercules G2

Printer productivity - 100 cm3/h.…

Maximum productivity - up to 100 cm3/h, flexible materials - up to 55 cm3/h Printer dimensions, mm…

Price:

219000.00 RUB

CR-10 Hotend

(1): Radiator Heatsink: Suitable for CR-10 Hotend Extruder For 1.75mm (2): Heater Block Suitable…

Price:

RUB 800.00

3 In 1 Diamond Hotend Extruder Nozzle 0.4 mm for 1.75 mm

This nozzle allows you to print simultaneously…

To work, you need to purchase the nozzle itself and separately three V6 extruders. Or three thermal barriers for…

Price:

900.00 RUB

Servo MG995 Metal Gear High Torque Servo

Servo for various applications…

Dimensions: 40mm x 19mm x 43mm Net weight: 69g Packing weight: 75gColor:…

Price:

RUB 1200.00

PLA plastic SEM 1.75 orange

Material: PLA Color: orange Diameter…

PLA SEM 1.75 orange Bright orange FDM material is PLA SEM…

Price:

2000.00 RUB

SKR V1.4 Board (32-bit Controller) for 3D Printer

Brand Name: BIGTREETECH Model Number: SKR V1.4rboard Board: 4-layer Microprocessor: ARM cortex-M3 CPU Input Voltage: DC12V-DC24V, 5A-15ASize: …

Price:

RUB 9000. 00

PET-G - Lilac

PTEG plastic has: high impact resistance;…

Net weight – 1 kg (+/-50 g). Bar diameter 1.75 mm (+/- 0.05 mm). Recommended…

Price:

1700.00 rub

Two-axis joystick XY module

Price:

260.00 RUB

Display for 3D printer LCD 12864

Price:

3000.00 RUB

Mega 2560 REV3 ATmega2560-16AU Tip + USB cable

Apduino ATmega2560-16AU is a common solution…

This board differs from other Apduinos by more inputs and outputs, more memory and…

Price:

RUB 2250.00

Heating block CR8 CR10

Dimensions 20x20x10mm.

Price:

RUB 300.