3D printed water jet drive

STL file WATER JET PUMP PROPULSION UNIT 80MM・3D printing idea to download・Cults

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File 3D water propulsion for STL board 3D digital file 3D printer printing・3D printer model for download・Cults

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how I typed "drive" / Habr

Hello everyone! I will try to tell a little about how I tried to make an airsoft drive using a 3D printer, what came of it and what difficulties I had to face. The article may be of interest to those who love airsoft, DIY or 3D printing. For those who are not familiar with airsoft but want to read about an interesting and challenging 3D printing project, there is a brief explanation of what it is about and why it is not easy to build an airsoft drive.

TLDR:

A working airsoft gun can be 3D printed, including the gearbox body. A couple of relevant models are published in the public domain. The article describes how they were developed.

Legal note

An electro-pneumatic weapon with a muzzle energy of less than 3 joules is a toy according to Russian law. This article is not related to the manufacture of firearms or any other weapons using 3D printing methods.

Likbez

After writing the article, I realized that many of the readers are basically not familiar with what airsoft is and why a drive is needed. I will try to tell in a couple of paragraphs with an emphasis on the technical side of the issue.

Airsoft (in the post-Soviet space it is better known as airsoft) is a team tactical game, a competitor to paintball or laser tag. It differs from paintball in greater distances with less need for protection. From laser tag - by the fact that bullets are transmitted from participant to participant, not information. The alternative is "a bunch of grown men firing at each other with toy guns."

Electro-pneumatic shotguns (usually referred to as "drive") for 6mm plastic balls are the most widely used for the game. How it works:

The motor cocks the piston through a system of gears.
A special rod pushes the ball into the barrel.
When released, the piston moves forward under the action of the main spring, air pressure is created in the cylinder.
An additional module at the beginning of the barrel - hop-up provides twisting of the ball. (Twisting the ball along the horizontal axis allows you to increase the flatness of the ball's flight path due to the Bernoulli effect)
Air pressure pushes the ball out of the barrel.
With a single fire, the cycle stops, with a burst of fire, it starts anew.

Animated picture from Wikipedia:

The ball flying out of the barrel has a small mass (0.2-0.4 grams) and a fairly high speed (100-170 m / s). The energy source is a battery, currently it is usually a high current li-po. When fired, a 11.1V battery delivers a current of around 30A. The efficiency of the system is low - ~ 300VA per second at the input turn into ~ 20 Joules at the output (16-18 balls per second with an energy slightly higher than 1J each or 10 balls with an energy of 2 J each). These measurements were carried out for the last of the drives described in the article, but they are quite typical for most analogues.

In case of any serious problems (loss of tightness, misalignment of parts, contamination or mechanical damage), the shot speed drops or gets a large spread, which fatally affects accuracy. It is widely believed among enthusiasts that good repeatability results can only be obtained using the highest quality components, mounted in a cast or milled metal case made with minimal tolerances. This housing is called the gearbox (gearbox) and is the heart of the entire system. The loads on the gear box increase rapidly with the growth of the power of the main spring and with the increase in the rate of fire.

Later in the article I will tell you how I tried to build a compressor housing from plastic and what results I achieved.

A bit of history

I became interested in tuning soft pneumatics about 20 years ago. At first, these were external and internal modifications of Chinese toys, with the advent of widely available Japanese electro-pneumatics, I switched to it. It was possible to repair or tune, probably, about one and a half thousand drives. For a while I monetized this hobby, but I like to work slowly and for myself more.

In 2007 I tried to make my first milled gearbox. It worked if you put it in a vise and hold it in some places;) Several things became clear from the amount of work:

You can make a gearbox case yourself.
The volume of efforts, attempts and errors is so great that it is worth doing this only for custom ones, into which an ordinary gearbox cannot be stuffed in any way.

When I got a 3D printer, I decided to remake the milled gearbox. Being able to prototype parts and see how they work together should eliminate a number of pitfalls.

First 3D printer

First 3D printer - Prusa Mendel. Shaky, loud, under a 3mm bar. The parts were printed from some kind of ABS plastic (at that time I was not particularly interested in specific manufacturers). Layers - 0.3 mm. I got this printer in 2012.

After printing and assembling the first prototype, it turned out that the printed gearbox does not fall apart immediately. Seeing a working gear box that didn't have to be behind a milling machine was cool. The work was accelerated many times, it was possible to draw a drawing, put a seal on the night and collect the details the next day.

View of an early version of the gearbox top assembly.

First version

I decided to make a plastic gearbox, which will be reinforced with aluminum plates in difficult places. It was assumed: plates for fastening gear bushings, plates with milled grooves for guiding the piston and, if necessary, ties on the outside of the box. Of course, the prototypes of these records were first made of plastic. As a result, the parts remained plastic - it turned out that they themselves are quite strong.

It was also planned to make the cylinder head ourselves, make it more massive to ensure strength in the place experiencing maximum shock loads. In general, the idea did not justify itself - in the following drives, I used a standard cylinder head and a massive hop-up body, the mount of which acts as ties for the gearbox.
A case was developed for the created gearbox.

In 2013, the airsoft scorpion evo3 was not yet made, which seemed to me very beautiful. However, I did not set myself the task of exact copying - I wanted to make a similar compact submachine gun, light, narrow, but with a full-fledged gearbox.

Scorpion EVO3 S1. Image source - Wikipedia.

The work turned out to be much more painstaking than planned - to assemble the printed parts, very often the parts had to be finished with a file. But holding the world's first printed airsoft gun in your hands warmed your soul. Cool achievement, in my opinion =) I should say special thanks to my wife, who supported my experiments and was engaged in the final painting of the finished project. Probably, with less understanding and support, the project would have been abandoned.

The disassembled drive shows how other modules are joined to the upper receiver

STL files for those who want to repeat the design were published on Thingiverse. Thus, the first print drive became an open source product. I don't know if anyone has been able to print it for themselves and get it to work. The source code was published in 2014. There were more than 50,000 views, almost 5,000 downloads, so maybe someone was stubborn. For those interested, the STL can be found at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:461896.

Finished and painted drive

After the first drive was ready, I wanted to do more — bigger, more perfect and more interesting. A bullpup was designed, leaving only bad photos and a bunch of details in one of the “projects” boxes. For the first time, the concept of strengthening the body with an aluminum channel was tested on it - it practically does not add excess mass and makes the body resistant to bending. Actually, factory-made drives in plastic cases also suffer from this problem, so the problem is caused by not using 3D printing.

Printer replacement

At the end of 2016, I designed and built a new 3D printer, with a strong frame, machine guides (MGN-12), core-XY layout and an enlarged hot bed. The new printer supports higher speeds, is much quieter, has a water-cooled extruder and a number of experimental developments (24v electrics, quiet drivers, a hot table for 220v). Unfortunately, it has not been completed, although it works and all the following drives were printed on it. On a good note, the carriage needs to be reworked, the hot box is not assembled, it is necessary to make flexible cable channels. Imperfections of the printer and settings will be perfectly visible in some of the following photos, I apologize in advance to perfectionist printers.

All further actuators were printed from FD-plast ABS rod, layer 0.2 mm. I have not experimented with other plastics for printing gearboxes, it seems tedious to me if ABS works well.

Second version

All the time that I played airsoft, I tried to find the most convenient drive for myself. I changed, probably, more than a hundred options, from widespread to very exotic, but I never found a uniquely suitable one. So the idea arose to make the drive as modular as possible - let each user be able to print a set of parts that he likes as much as possible.

Actually the idea is not new, attempts to make modular firearms for various tasks are being undertaken by gunsmiths around the world. An example is the Stoner 63 weapon system, which, depending on the build, can change from a carbine to machine guns.

Photo of various Stoner 63 builds taken from forgottenweapons.com

The second version of the open source 3D-printed drive was a rather thick-walled upper receiver with a frame of aluminum channels, to which the lower receiver with gears was attached and a motor (usually in a pistol grip), a magazine receiver and external body panels. Several variants of cases were printed, however, by the time when it would be possible to start publication, I was already captured by another idea.

Two variants of the second version. They differ in the finish of the upper receiver and the front set.

Third version

In the third version, the thickness of the body of the upper part of the gear box is reduced. This was supposed to make the outer walls of the hull thicker and allow more room for design work without overthickening the hull. It turned out that the walls of reduced thickness cope even with powerful (140) springs. Moreover, the walls around the cylinder can be additionally relieved by openings. This result was achieved due to the thickening of the walls "inside". Additional flows of plastic around the cylinder and piston create a kind of “corner”, which is more difficult to bend than the plate.

View of the open top of the gearbox

In general, a submachine gun similar to those presented earlier can be assembled on this frame. But I wanted to make a beautiful and most effective solution - to place the most productive option in a compact size. For the length base, a thin barrel 455 mm long was taken (such a barrel for Kalashnikov airsoft guns). Gearbox internals - any tm-compatible version for gearbox 3. For compactness, the bullpup form factor was chosen (the location of the magazine behind the pistol grip). Stores used from M16 - chosen for the wide distribution and location of the ball feeder in front of the store. This, in turn, allows you to maintain an ergonomic distance from the butt to the trigger with a sufficiently large gap between the handle and the magazine (sounds easy, but this is one of the most critical points for criticizing a real weapon in this form factor). The battery compartment must have enough space.

Gearbox open bottom

Severe additional restriction - any part must fit on the hot plate of a budget printer (200x200 mm). It took a lot of brainstorming to make parts printable on compact tables.

The concept for the outer housing was chosen deliberately futuristic - we wanted to make a drive that would be recognizable at first sight. The design was very difficult for me - I had to look at thousands of reference pictures of fantastic weapons, look for the best solutions, and then understand how a working mechanism and human ergonomics can fit into it.

This is how the hull design looked like

As part of the gearbox reliability tests, it was tested with M100 Systema and M130 Guarder springs. The muzzle speed given is consistent with fairly high quality builds for factory drives (unfortunately I don't have 0.20 balls, had to chrono .28 and recalculate). The approximate speed is 100m/s for the m100 spring and 148m/s for the 130 spring. It's not the best performance, but not below average either. It should be noted that the base parts used are left over from tuning other drives, so there is no doubt that the printed gearbox does not have chronic defects that affect efficiency. The gear box withstands a long burst of blanks (guarder m130 spring, about 200 shots) and after that no hardening is formed on the plastic.

Gearbox assembly during tests

At a speed of 100 m/s, the hop-up successfully spins the balls, the flight distance of 0.28 balls, although slow, exceeds 50 m (shot in an open sports range, real meters). In the current assembly, accuracy is lame, but most likely this is due to the fact that the hop-up rubber bands that I have are already quite old (the last 8 years I have not bought new parts, there are so many of them at home).

It should be noted that this time not only STL files, but also solidworks sources are made available to the public. I tried to follow certain standards for naming elements of drawings and make the details as clear as possible. In addition, I selected the tolerances of the parts so that they fit together without painstaking file work. I had to print 10 gearboxes until the quality began to suit me.

Some parts I printed in colored plastic to highlight the controls and overall aesthetic. As a result, the drive began to look like this:

View of the finished drive

Sources published on thingiverse.

The model was uploaded from the middle to the end of 2018. At the moment, the root node of the model has more than 25 thousand views and 4. 5 thousand downloads, I hope it will be useful for enthusiasts to repeat or upgrade.

When I have time for a hobby, I plan to add more detailed assembly instructions, maybe try to assemble the drive from parts in front of the camera. The basic version assumes the presence of an electronic key and only automatic fire. There is a functional prototype of the electronic cut-off of a single fire by current strength and operating time by the battery condition monitoring system. However, for this you will have to make a new case, a little more. There is an idea to try to create a Patreon account and post alternative options for the external case and electronics for subscribers. I will be glad to advice on the organization of Patreon in the comments.
Thank you!

UPD. The project was completed over a year ago. It was great to see other enthusiasts print versions of my drive, I know of at least three completed projects.
I was able to play a few big games with the drive, run some tests.