3D print wargaming terrain

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PnP with their own claws

Author - Mikhail Kropotov

Hello friends.

For all the time that I have been doing P&P building, subscribers sent me different recipes for making, they all had their pluses and minuses, but I never found the ideal way. So how do you do the PnP of your dreams, it’s up to you to decide, and in this article I will share my experience, and at least you won’t step on my rake. Most likely, those who have been pirating for more than a day will not read anything new.

So what are the components of a game? Map of the area, deck of cards, rules + memos, tokens.

Let's start from simple to complex: the rules. The lightest component, we send a file for printing and catch what is printed from the printer. You can do this in two ways: 1. a full-size A4 book, and 2. - half A5. The first way is the most ingenuous, we print, we sew. The second one is also simple, we put the Adobe Acrobat program and print the Brochure, then we bend the leaves in half and sew them in the middle.

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I liked the brochures better in use, they are compact, convenient and economical.

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Next we print the map of the area. Here, too, everything is simple, if there is a breakdown into small sheets - we print, then we glue it together, if not ... well then we knock on the public, good people will not refuse.

However, I still recommend printing the card on paper, I personally suffered with glued cards that are constantly moving apart, or glued unevenly, it is much more pleasant to play on a solid card.

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Card deck. We do double-sided printing on thick paper, then cut it into separate cards with scissors, everything is simple. However, I strongly advise you not to use an image as a shirt... use a texture fill. No matter how much I fought with my printer, he doesn’t want to print exactly in any one so that the card matches her shirt, some kind of offset always turns out.

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This is how my face looked when the printer misprinted the cards again.

And then someone will shout: “Hey! stop with the obvious things, you know why we are all here! How to make fucking COUNTERS!!!???”.

First things first! Never mess with glue! It might be obvious to some! But I have to say it! PVA glue is evil! Glue stick fiend! NENADA! We buy self-adhesive A4 paper and print on it.

The next step is to choose the basis for the token. Ordinary cardboard will not work, it is too thin and it will not be convenient for them to play.

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So we have two ways. Make expensive-rich, or bum-style.

Expensive-rich - we buy printed cardboard 1.5-2 mm thick and glue our printed self-adhesive on it. Then we take something spicy and cut into tokens.

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I do not recommend cutting such thick cardboard with scissors, because they spoil the edge, you need to do this either with a scalpel or a clerical knife. I must say right away that this is not an easy task, and sometimes accidents happen.

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Model scalpel, served me for five years in the modeling hobby, but fell from LnLT.

Homeless style. So, how do you make a token without too much trouble, so that it is thick enough, strong enough, and so that you don’t have to fiddle with complicated cardboard? Sit back, now the old pirate will share his sea secret... Are you ready? It's corrugated cardboard! What are you laughing at? Come on you . ..

I know that such cardboard is sold anyway, but I use lids from office paper (homeless style).

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In terms of thickness, as can be seen above, it is not inferior to ordinary cardboard, but it is much easier to cut it, without much difficulty it can be cut with scissors. However, tokens with this method are ugly. If someone is afraid that such tokens will delaminate, then I hasten to reassure you, my friends and I played two campaigns in Nuklear Winter 68 and there were no problems with them.

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Another trick that applies to both types of token construction - do not try to stick both sides at once. If you try to combine two A4 formats at once, then you will most likely be mistaken. Even if it seems to you that you have adjusted everything exactly, even one degree of error is enough for a fatal shift to appear, which will ruin half of the printed tokens. I do this - I cut out a strip in two rows of counters, stick it on cardboard, then cut off this strip with cardboard and glue the back side.

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