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3D print too much retraction


Too Much Retraction In 3d Printing? Best Solutions

Once we saw something like a web between the object that we were 3D printing, we printed with the retraction off. Then we turned on the retraction, and now the filament isn’t coming out because of too much retraction in 3D printing.

When the retraction speed is too high, some parts of the printed object don’t get enough filament. Or, even worse, the nozzle gets jammed. A retraction distance that’s too high would cause blobs or zits in print and might even lead to clogs or jams.

To solve this, you can lower the values by 0.20 until you find the best settings to print smoothly. If you change the values too much, you will see ooze or string. As of now, retraction is way too low. Before we see how to optimize retraction settings to get a perfect print, you must know what retraction is in 3D printing.

And, the obvious one! Make sure to use high-quality 3D printing filaments. We personally use OVERTURE Filaments from Amazon for a lot of our projects; they are affordable as well as reliable.

3D Printing: Retraction Explained By Vision Miner

Retraction is a special feature found in most 3D printers that are used to prevent any unwanted filament from leaking out the printer nozzle. The main function of ‘Retraction’ in 3D printers is to optimize the amount of filament the printer head releases as well as the speed at which it retracts it.

When the extruder head travels between two distinct points, the filament is known for oozing out from the nozzle. This results in the formation of strings, blobs, or zits on the object, which is simply annoying.

One way to terminate this problem is to turn on retraction in your machine. This setting commands the extruder to pull a pre-specified length of material back into the extruder at a specified speed. Stringing is less likely when the filament is temporarily retracted from the extruder head. With the optimal retraction settings for your 3D printer, you should not see any web-like structure, blobs, zits, or even oozing.

3D printer retraction speed is the most important of the three main retraction settings. It’s the speed at which the nozzle retracts the material back. We would discuss the best retraction settings, but we should first look at what causes too much retraction.

What causes too much retraction: 3D printing

When you print a single continuous object with no gaps, it usually doesn’t need any retraction. You can turn off the reflection settings and print smoothly. But the case is different when there need to be some gaps between the object.

Now you must turn on the retraction to have a clean printed object. It’s frustrating to see strings between the object even after the retraction. You don’t need to worry here, as the retraction speed might be way too low. You can dial it up until it doesn’t produce any strings or webs around the object.

Here comes an exciting plot where everyone gets in trouble. When we initially dialed the retraction speed, we messed up completely. Then we set up the retraction speed value so high it caused too much retraction. And the printer stopped printing as the nozzle got blocked. Furthermore, we had to clean up the nozzle and set up the retraction speed perfectly, and “kaboom” was printing perfectly.

Retraction means the printer would stop printing at parts where it doesn’t require any printing—for example, the space between the fingers of a 3d printed hand. If the retraction is off or too low, then it would lead to stringing or oozing around the gap of the object (fingers of the hand).

How do you set retraction speed?

Initially, it is a headache to set up retraction perfectly. But once you get used to it, it’s pretty easy:

  1. Every printer has different retraction settings, and you will have to get the perfect one through the trial and error method.
  2. Suppose your retraction speed is high, and there’s too much retraction; you need to dial down the speed by 0.20 at a time.
  3. Changing the values way too much would cause low retraction. So keep lowering the retraction speed values by 0.20 till you see a perfect and smooth print, and make sure to note that value down for future reference.
  4. Or you might also contact the printer customer service to get the perfect retraction speed.

There would be more settings below the retraction speed settings, but you should not mess around with them and let them be in the default values. These are not such necessary values to be altered, and once you mess these up, it’s tough to fix them.

We suggest you only turn on retraction and play around with the retraction speed values until you find the perfect settings. The length also matters to some extent, and the best values are around 0.4mm to 1.2mm for materials like PLA, ABS, etc. 

Best Retraction speed and length for 3D printer

The retraction length plays a small part in determining a smooth print, and the best lengths range from 0. 4mm to 2.5mm for various filaments. Common materials like PLA, ABS, etc., perform optimally around 1.0mm, and materials like TPU, soft PLA, resin, etc., need greater retraction distance.

The speed plays a significant role, and there are various retraction speeds for typical materials like PLA and ABS, which are around 35mm/s to 70mm/s. Other materials like TPU, etc., require a retraction speed that is much less, around 10mm/s to 30mm/s.

The last thing which you might consider is retraction speed for non-printing moves. We found the average to be around 140mm/s to 160mm/s. This is the setting where the nozzle travels between empty spaces. The faster the speed, the less the filament oozing out of the nozzle during the cover-up of the distance through space.

Don’t forget about the Minimum travel distance.

Minimum Travel distance is the minimum distance required to enable 3D printer retraction. For example, if set to 3 mm. The extruder wouldn’t retract the filament if the print head traveled 2. 5 mm.

If strings span over short distances, you should lower this distance. They start with a minimum travel distance of 0.5 mm. And adjust it by 0.5-mm increments till you find the perfect distance.

Also, make sure not to set the minimum travel distance way too low. Doing so might cause the extruder to grind the material through excessive pushing and pulling.

Categories Uncategorized Tags The best retraction speed

Stringing or Oozing

Stringing or Oozing

Stringing (otherwise known as oozing, whiskers, or “hairy” prints) occurs when small strings of plastic are left behind on a 3D printed model. This is typically due to plastic oozing out of the nozzle while the extruder is moving to a new location. Thankfully, there are several settings within Simplify3D that can help with this issue. The most common setting that is used to combat excessive stringing is something that is known as retraction. If retraction is enabled, when the extruder is done printing one section of your model, the filament will be pulled backwards into the nozzle to act as a countermeasure against oozing. When it is time to begin printing again, the filament will be pushed back into the nozzle so that plastic once again begins extruding from the tip. To ensure retraction is enabled, click “Edit Process Settings” and click on the Extruder tab. Ensure that the retraction option is enabled for each of your extruders. In the sections below, we will discuss the important retraction settings as well as several other settings that can be used to combat stringing, such as the extruder temperature settings.

Common Solutions

Retraction distance

The most important retraction setting is the retraction distance. This determines how much plastic is pulled out of the nozzle. In general, the more plastic that is retracted from the nozzle, the less likely the nozzle is to ooze while moving. Most direct-drive extruders only require a retraction distance of 0.5-2.0mm, while some Bowden extruders may require a retraction distance as high as 15mm due to the longer distance between the extruder drive gear and the heated nozzle. If you encounter stringing with your prints, try increasing the retraction distance by 1mm and test again to see if the performance improves.

Retraction speed

The next retraction setting that you should check is the retraction speed. This determines how fast the filament is retracted from the nozzle. If you retract too slowly, the plastic will slowly ooze down through the nozzle and may start leaking before the extruder is done moving to its new destination. If you retract too quickly, the filament may separate from the hot plastic inside the nozzle, or the quick movement of the drive gear may even grind away pieces of your filament. There is usually a sweet spot somewhere between 1200-6000 mm/min (20-100 mm/s) where retraction performs best. Thankfully, Simplify3D has already provided many pre-configured profiles that can give you a starting point for what retraction speed works best, but the ideal value can vary depending on the material that you are using, so you may want to experiment to see if different speeds decrease the amount of stringing that you see.

Temperature is too high

Once you have checked your retraction settings, the next most common cause for excessive stringing is the extruder temperature. If the temperature is too high, the plastic inside the nozzle will become less viscous and will leak out of the nozzle much more easily. However, if the temperature is too low, the plastic will still be somewhat solid and will have difficulty extruding from the nozzle. If you feel you have the correct retraction settings, but you are still encountering these issues, try decreasing your extruder temperature by 5-10 degrees. This can have a significant impact on the final print quality. You can adjust these settings by clicking “Edit Process Settings” and selecting the Temperature tab. Select your extruder from the list on the left, and then double-click on the temperature setpoint you wish to edit.

Long movements over open spaces

As we discussed above, stringing occurs when the extruder is moving between two different locations, and during that move, plastic starts to ooze out of the nozzle. The length of this movement can have a large impact on how much oozing takes place. Short moves may be quick enough that the plastic does not have time to ooze out of the nozzle. However, long movements are much more likely to create strings. Thankfully, Simplify3D includes an extremely useful feature that can help minimize the length of these movements. The software is smart enough that it can automatically adjust the travel path to make sure that nozzle has a very short distance to travel over an open space. In fact, in many cases, the software may be able to find a travel path that avoids crossing an open space all together! This means that there is no possibility to create a string, because the nozzle will always be on top of the solid plastic and will never travel outside the part. To use this feature, click on the Advanced tab and enable the “Avoid crossing outline for travel movement” option.

Movement Speed

Finally, you may also find that increasing the movement speed of your machine can also reduce the amount of time that the extruder can ooze when moving between parts. You can verify what movement speeds your machine is using by clicking on the Speeds tab of your process settings. The X/Y Axis Movement Speed represents the side-to-side travel speed, and is frequently directly related to the amount of time your extruder spends moving over open air. If your machine can handle moving at higher speeds, you may find that increasing this settings can also reduce stringing between parts.

Related Topics

Troubleshooting 3D Printing・Cults

This article should help you identify various 3D printing related issues. Find the image or description in this list that best describes the problem you're experiencing. We offer some tips that should help you solve this problem.
As you know, 3D printing is an empirical process and it is through mistakes that you learn to understand, set up and use your machine. With the help of this list, you should be able to resolve the major bugs. If you are still experiencing issues or have additional tips to add to this list, feel free to contact us and let us know!

#1 Drooling

Symptom
Thin threads are woven into gaps between different parts of a 3D printed part.

Common Name: oozing

Possible Cause
Plastic continues to leak out of the head as it moves due to residual pressure in the heater and fluidity of the molten plastic.

Suggested remedies
Increase filament retraction length in Slic3r, retraction distance in CuraEngine. Retracting the filament will cause the pressure in the print head heater to drop. The effect can be modulated by adjusting the retraction speed directly in the slicer.
Increase print head speed. This allows the melted plastic to spread less time and leave marks between the printed parts.
Reduce the extrusion temperature of your plastic. If it is too high, the plastic becomes more fluid and flows out of the extruder faster.

#2 It is collapsing

Symptom
Collapse or poor quality of the overhanging surface, leaving small bumps.

Common name: overhang

Possible cause
The plastic deposited on the periphery of the protrusion does not solidify fast enough, so the deposited filament moves before it solidifies. The phenomenon is repeated or emphasized from one layer to another.

Suggested fixes
Vent the deposited plastic more efficiently, for example by adding a fan to the extruder or directly with a portable fan.
Create print supports under the overhangs.
Change part orientation to avoid overhangs.

#3 Flaking on the sides or top

Symptoms
Contours not bonded enough.
Flat surfaces are not completely covered.

Possible cause
Not enough material is deposited. Too narrow, the deposited wires do not touch each other enough and therefore do not stick to the adjacent wire.
There is dirt in the nozzle, which prevents the passage of the melt.
The extrusion temperature is too low, the wire dries out too quickly or shrinks and therefore does not stick to the adjacent wire.

Suggested Tools
Calibrate the extruder to obtain material flow according to data received from the slicer.
Unlock the extrusion nozzle.
Increase extrusion temperature.
Increase the blending speed in your slicer.

#4 There is not enough material on thin parts

Symptom
The edges of a very thin area are not strong enough, there is not enough material.

Possible cause
Recycling or reworking is not effective enough.
Incorrect filament solidification.
Thread drive slippage during retraction.

Suggested remedies
Reduce the retraction speed and length while printing.
Increase "extra leg length when retracting" when using Slic3r.
Increase the spring pressure on the driven gear.

#5 Blisters

Symptom
Blisters, mismatched geometry, such as small bumps that are seen mostly in areas with a small surface area.

Possible cause
The filament is too hot during extrusion or the filament cooling system is not effective enough.

Suggested media
Place more parts on the plate while printing. In this case, the nozzle will print more objects and therefore allow more time for the part to cool before passing over it again.
Improve the cooling of your 3D printed object by adding cooling systems.

#6 Thin walls delaminate

Symptom
At a thin wall without filler, the threads diverge, they are not glued together on the sides.

Possible Cause
The walls of your 3D print are too thin or not adapted to such a small size.

Suggested remedies
Draw thicker walls to adapt to the thread thickness.
In the slicer settings, set a sludge width that is a sub-multiple of the wall width while remaining consistent with the extrusion diameter and layer height.
Change slicer.

#7 Layer shifts horizontally

Symptom
The layer is shifted in the X or Y axis (or both).

Possible Cause
Print head or plate movement problem.

Suggested fix
Reduce the acceleration on the axis that has the problem.

#8 Layers shift evenly

Symptom
Layers almost always shift along the X and/or Y axis after a certain print height.

Possible Cause
Head or plate offset failure due to overheating of motors going into safe mode.

Suggested fix
Cool engines with cooling systems (fans).

#9 Corners curl up

Symptom
Deformation in the Z direction during 3D printing. This figure increases in case of a strong overhang.

Common name: curling

Possible cause
Poor solidification, shrinkage effect due to temperature difference of the wire deposited on the previous cooled layer.

Suggested remedies
Increase the slope in the 3D part to reduce overhang.
Further cooling of the deposited plastic using a ventilation system.
Add print supports to affected areas.

#10 Corners fall off

Symptom
The corners of the printed object are peeling off the plate, creating an uneven base.

Common name: warping

Possible cause
Poor fit between the workpiece and the insert.
Material shrinkage factor too high.
The first layer is not pressed enough against the board.

Suggested remedies
Change media as PLA is less likely to warp.
Apply adhesive to the printing plate (glue, tape, varnish, etc.).
Correctly adjust the plate height before printing.
Apply a thinner first coat to further crush the deposited wire.
Add a bezel under the first layer.
Heat up the stove.
Clean and degrease the base.
Change the filling strategy. Fill the bottom concentrically instead of linearly, then fill the inside in a honeycomb pattern to avoid any shrinkage effect.
Reduce the internal fill density of your 3D printed object.

#11 Extrusion density too low

Symptom
Incorrect material density.

Possible cause
Material consumption too low

Suggested remedies
Unlock the extrusion nozzle.
Filament blocked upstream of extruder (e.g. knot in spool)
Check thread drive (e.g. knurled screw problem)

Corners #12 not forming correctly

Symptom
The corners are not straight enough, they can even stick out and increase the size of the part.

Possible cause
Too much material is deposited in the corner due to the nozzle slowing down too much as it passes through the corner.

Suggested remedies
Intentionally soften the corner of the part in the 3D modeling software.
Increase the "jerk" on your 3D printer's axis controller.

#13 There are black drops

Symptom
Burnt (blackened) plastic in some areas of the printed object.

Possible Cause
Poor nozzle seal causing burnt PLA or ABS to drip around the nozzle.

Suggested fix
Remove the nozzle and close it again.

#14 Layers poorly welded

Symptom
Part breaks at the attachment point between two printed layers.

Possible cause
Too much cooling, the deposited layer does not adhere well to the previous layer, because it was not hot enough during the deposition.

Suggested remedies
Reduce fan speed during printing.
Increase the minimum print speed in the slicer.

#15 Bubbles form on the first layer

Symptom
The first layer comes off the plate locally in the form of bubbles.

Possible Causes
Moisture present in the material which gradually evaporates upon contact with the heating plate.
Insufficient heating plate temperature for the material being used.

Suggested products
Store raw material rolls in a dry place, in closed packaging, with a desiccant bag.
Dry damaged material: place in a rotary oven at 40°C for approximately 3 hours. Be careful not to heat above 45°C or 50°C as this may cause the threads to stick together in the bobbin and even lose their cylindrical shape.
Increase the temperature of the heating plate.
Printing on tape or special adhesive.

#16 Fragile top and bottom

Symptom
Horizontal sides too thin and brittle.

Possible Causes
Insufficient material thickness above and below thin fill print. The laid threads have too few support points and break between the threading ribs.

Suggested remedies
Place at least 2 or 3 fully filled layers ("Solid layers" option in Slic3r) for the "top" and "bottom" faces.
Increase the fill of your object.

#17 Hole tops collapse

Symptom
Horizontal center hole top wires collapse during construction.

Possible causes
Plumb line too horizontal.
Mismatch between nozzle temperature, wire cooling and speed.

Suggested fixes
Reduce or eliminate this overhang area by modifying the 3D file geometry. An example is in the large hole in the photo, shaped like a drop of water, not a cylinder.
Add print supports below this area if the overhang is too difficult for the 3D printer.
Avoid too much slowdown in this area, even if the layer print time is short.

#18 Color or clarity varies

Symptom
The color or transparency of the material changes in different areas during 3D printing.

Possible causes
Different crystallization of the material due to different cooling rates. This may be due, for example, to the printing time of individual parts of the object or to the power of the fan.
Radiation from the nozzle can affect the thermal cycle of the previous layer and thereby change its appearance.
The applied layer is too hot because the underlying layer has not cooled down.

Be careful, the physical-mechanical properties of the part may change due to these differences in crystallization!

Suggested fixes
Better control of cooling with slicer settings: change fan power based on plate cooling time or slow print speed in proportion to plate surface.
Reduce extrusion temperature for faster and more uniform phase transition.

#19 Layers are delaminating

Symptom
Some layers are bent and cracks appear between the different printed layers.

Possible causes
Twisting phenomenon due to the effect mentioned in #9 the above happens between layers.
The wire cools too quickly at the exit of the nozzle, it does not weld properly with the previous layer.
Severe contraction of the material during cooling or phase change.
Some materials extruded at high temperature (ABS, PC...) may present a significant shrinkage phenomenon.

Suggested remedies
Change the extrusion temperature.
Change the media.
Avoid blowing on a wire that has been set aside, reducing fan power, or placing the printer in a draughty room.
Close the assembly area in a controlled cabinet at a temperature close to the glass transition temperature of the material.

#20 Drops appear

Symptom
Drops of material are deposited at various points on the side of the 3D printed object.

Possible Causes
Excessive extrusion when resuming extrusion after stopping extrusion when moving from one point of the part to another or when changing layers.

Suggested Remedies
Some slicers have a setting that after a pause in printing, request that more be pushed in before resuming normal printing than was removed by retraction.

#21 Bowden extruder salivation

Symptom
The Bowden extruder is either running too hard or not running enough. First impressions of your extruder are not great, too much extruded material, bridges between different areas in motion where extrusion should stop.

Possible cause
Insufficient thread shrinkage to compensate for the gap in the Bowden tube. Depending on the diameter of the tube and filament, as well as the length of the body, the motor must draw a certain length of filament through the bends of the tube before the filament is drawn out of the heating head.

Suggested fixes
Increase the "pull" distance in the slicer. The detail on the left was printed with 1.5 mm of indentation, which was clearly not enough. When the pull-in distance was increased to 6mm, the center part was printed. Too much shrinkage causes hot material to enter the thermal break, the temperature of the thermal break gradually rises, and the melting thread eventually gets stuck in the thermal break. The engine is no longer able to effectively push it. Reducing the retraction distance to 4 mm results in the part shown on the right.

#22 Streaks or regular patterns on extrusion

Symptom
Repeating patterns appear on the walls of 3D prints.
The pattern may change depending on the direction of movement of the motors.

Possible cause
Incorrect extruder drive setting
This problem can occur if the extruder is set to the wrong current. If the extruder has insufficient power, the extrusion will not be constant.

Suggested remedies
Adjust the extruder driver with a multimeter. Be careful not to short circuit during the measurement, use a ceramic screwdriver.

Artwork by Philippe, Pierrot and Franck and originally posted on LOGre

This page has been translated using machine translation. Suggest the best translation

20 Most Common 3D Printing Problems (Part 1)

Good afternoon dear 3D Today community! I would like to present you a translation of the article Troubleshooting Guide to 20 Common 3D Printing Problems, which will be divided into 2 parts.

Everyone has problems with printing. We had enough of them to analyze and find solutions for the 20 most common 3D printing problems. In this article, we share our experience and hope that now you do not have to spend extra time diagnosing and solving problems that have arisen.

If you cannot determine what the problem is, compare it with the description.

3D Printing Issue #1: Warp - First Layer Peeling

Issue Description

The print is lifting up on the base of the model and does not stick to the platform. This problem can also cause horizontal cracks in the top sections of the printout.

Why did the problem occur?

Deformation of the print base is due to the nature of the plastic. ABS and PLA plastic cools very quickly and this is what can cause the first layer to come off.

Solution to 3D printing problem: Printout warped

1. Use a heated bed. The easiest solution to this problem is to use a heatbed and set the temperature just below the melting temperature of the plastic. If you set the temperature correctly, the first layer will not come off the platform. The printer bed temperature is often set automatically by the slicer. The recommended temperature for your plastic is listed on the side of the package or reel.

2. Use adhesive . If your printout is lifting around the edges, apply a thin layer of glue (or hairspray) to the platform to increase adhesion.

3. Try another platform. Change the platform to a platform with more adhesion. Manufacturers like Lulzbot use a PEI (Polyetherimide) coating that provides a good grip even without the use of glue. XYZPrinting Some printers include a few pieces of thermal tape for the liner. This is a good solution for cool platforms. Zortrax 3D choose a different solution - a perforated backing to which the printout adheres, thereby relieving the user of the problem of deformation at the base.

4. Calibrate the platform. Improper platform calibration can also affect the print quality of the first layer. Check the level of the platform and correct the height if necessary.

5. Increase contact between printout and platform. Often this problem also occurs due to insufficient contact between the model and the substrate. It can be easily corrected using the printer software by adding a skirt or backing.

6. Optimize temperature settings. If none of the methods worked, check the advanced settings of the printer software and the printer itself. Try increasing the platform temperature by 5 degrees.

7. Pay attention to the fan settings. As a general rule, the fans should switch to full power as soon as the print reaches a height of 0.5 millimeters, but you can increase the height to 0.75 millimeters to allow the layers to cool naturally.

8. Even if your printer has a heated bed, it is recommended that you use glue (or varnish) and constantly adjust the bed level.

Warp 3D Printing: Checklist to Avoid Problems

  • Use Heated Platform
  • Use Glue (Varnish) for More Adhesion
  • Instead of Glass Platform, Use Kapton/Heat Tape/Adhesive/Varnish
  • Recalibrate Platform
    • 580587 or substrate
  • Adjust temperature and fan settings

3D printing issue #2: First layer misalignment (Elephant foot)

Problem description

The base of the model is slightly off.

Why did the problem occur?

Typically, the base of the model shifts due to the weight of the print, which presses on the first layer when the lower layers have not yet had time to cool. Often happens with heated bed printers.

3D Printing Solution: First Layer Offset

1. Correct balance. To get rid of the problem of first layer displacement, printed models must be sufficiently cooled to support the weight of the entire structure. Here you should be careful: excessive hypothermia can lead to deformation of the first layer. Finding a balance is hard enough. Start by lowering the platform temperature 5 degrees (but no more than 20 degrees below the recommended temperature). If Bottom / Top Thickness is set to 0.6 millimeters, turn on the fan immediately at a height slightly lower.

2. Platform level. Most 3D printing problems are related to the wrong platform level. For each printer, there is a specific approach for platform level calibration. Check the manufacturer's recommendations to determine what you need. Print out a calibration cube and look at the quality of the plastic feed. The calibration cube will help you determine if the plastic has been laid flat, and if the nozzle is too close to the platform and scrapes the melted plastic, or too high causing the plastic to bubble.

3. Raise the nozzle. Raising the nozzle a little can often help. The main thing is not to raise it too high.

4. Smoothen the corners of the model. If all else fails, try chamfering the corners of the model base. Of course, this is only possible if you created the model yourself or if you have access to the source file. Start with 5mm and 45º bevel and experiment to get the best result.

3D Printing First Layer Offset: A Checklist to Avoid Problems

  • Balance Platform Temperature and Fan Speed ​​
  • Raise Printer Platform
  • Check Floor Height
  • Make model corners smoother

    • 9 Problem 3 9 : Other problems with the first layer

    Description of the problem

    The first layer does not look right, some fragments are missing. There are unnecessary lines at the bottom.

    Why did the problem occur?

    Such 3D printing problems usually indicate that the platform level has not been set correctly. If the nozzle is too far from the platform, unnecessary lines often appear at the bottom of the printout or the first layer does not stick. If the nozzle is too close to the platform, this can cause formation bubbling.

    Also note that the platform must be clean. Fingerprints on the platform may cause the first layer to not adhere to the platform.

    3D printing problem solution: Other first layer problems

    1. Set the platform level. Each printer has its own platform level configuration process. For example, the latest Lulzbots use auto-calibration, while Ultimaker offers step-by-step manual calibration. But to set up the Prusa i3 platform level, you will need to spend a lot of time studying the issue.

    2. Set nozzle height. If the nozzle is too high, the plastic will not stick to the platform, if too low, the nozzle will scrape the printout.

    3. Clean the platform. Be sure to clean the printer platform regularly, especially if you are using adhesive. Fingerprints, dust and adhesive residue affect how well the model sticks to the platform.

    4. Use glue (varnish). Apply a thin layer of adhesive to the platform to increase the adhesion of the model to the platform. Remember to clean the platform regularly as excess glue can cause the opposite effect.

    Layers shift in the middle of the printout.

    The printer straps are not tight enough. The top plate is not attached and moves independently of the bottom plate. One of the rods in the Z-axis is not perfectly aligned

    3D Printing Solution: Layers misaligned in the model

    1. Check the belts. First of all, check how tight the straps are: they shouldn't hang loose, but they shouldn't be too tight either. If you pull on the straps, you should feel a slight resistance. If you feel that the top strap is tighter than the bottom strap, this is a sure sign that they are not tight enough.

    2. Check the cover. Check the cover, rods and other parts on top of the printer (if you have coreXY). Make sure all parts are properly fastened.

    3. Check the z-axis screws. Many printer manufacturers use threaded studs more often than trapezoid screws, and while both do the job, the studs tend to bend over time. No need to disassemble the printer to check if the rods are straight. Simply use software such as Printrun to move the print head up and down. If one of the Z axis bars is bent, you will definitely notice it. Unfortunately, it is almost impossible to straighten a bent stud, but on the other hand, this is a great reason to replace old threaded rods with trapezoidal screws.

    Supply displacement: Checklist

    • Check belt tension
    • Check if the upper lid is
    • Make sure that the studs along the zasi z.
    9053 problems

    Gaps in the model appear due to the fact that some layers are missing (partially or completely).

    The printer was unable to produce the required amount of plastic to print the missing layers. In 3D printing, this problem is also known as under-extruding. The essence of the problem may lie in the plastic itself (for example, a different diameter of the material), in the coil, in the feed mechanism (extruder) or in a clogged nozzle.

    Friction can cause plastic to get stuck. It could also be that the z-axis screws (studs) are not properly aligned with the linear bearings.

    There may also be a problem with screws (studs) in the Z axis and with the bearings themselves.

    3D Printing Solution: Missing Layers

    1. Mechanical Check . If suddenly you find missing layers in the print - it's time to take a little care of your printer. Start by checking the screws (studs) and make sure they are firmly attached to the bearings or clamps.

    2. Check rod alignment. Check that all screws (studs) are aligned and not misaligned. Turn off the power and gently move the print head along the X and Y axes. If there is any resistance, then there is some problem. It is easy enough to understand what exactly the problem lies in - a slightly bent rod or bearings.

    3. Worn bearings. Worn bearings make noise. You may also feel the rattle of the print head, while the printer vibrates slightly. In this case, turn off the power and move the print head along the X and Y axes to find out where the worn bearing is.

    4. Check the oil. Remember to regularly lubricate the printer moving mechanisms. Sewing machine oil is ideal for lubrication - you can buy it at any hardware store at an affordable price. Before applying oil, make sure the studs (screws) are clean. If the studs(screws) have dirt or print material residue, clean them.

    Then connect to the printer via a program (eg Pronterface) to move the printhead in the X and Y axes and check that the studs are evenly lubricated. If you apply a little more oil, just wipe off the excess.

    5. Underextruded . The last cause of the problem may be insufficient extrusion. There can be many solutions to this problem, and all of them are described in Section 9.

    Checklist

    • Check the printer mechanism to make sure the moving parts are tight.
    • Recheck printer design and alignment
    • Check for worn bearings and bent studs
    • Use some oil to lubricate parts

    3D printing issue #6: Cracks in tall objects

    Problem description

    Cracks on the sides of the model, most commonly in tall models.

    The problem can occur unexpectedly, and most often occurs in large printers, especially if you do not monitor their work.

    On the upper layers, the material cools faster because the heat from the platform does not reach the required height. Because of this, the adhesion of the upper layers is lower.

    3D Printing Solution: Cracks in Tall Objects

    1. Extruder Temperature . Start by increasing the extruder temperature - 5-10ºC is best. On the side of the plastic box you will find the highest temperature for plastic, try not to raise the temperature to this value.

    2. Fan direction and speed . Double check your fans and make sure they are pointed at the model. If the direction is correct, reduce their speed.

    Checklist

    • Check the maximum possible temperature of the extruder and increase the current temperature by 10ºC in one attempt.
    • Check the direction and speed of the cooling fans.

    3D Printing Issue #7: Holes in the top layer

    Description of the issue

    Holes and gaps in the top surface of the printout.

    The two most common causes of this problem are improper top coat cooling and top coat not thick enough.

    Solution to 3D printing problem: Holes on the top layer

    1. Thread (filament) diameter . Often the problem happens with plastic with a diameter of 1.75 mm. Holes in the top layer are a problem with all 3D printers, but they happen more often with printers that use 1.75mm filament than with printers that print with filament larger than 2.85mm.

    2. Check the location of fan . Cooling can cause this problem, so check the fans first. When the printer starts printing, the fans are at their lowest speed or off. After printing the first layer, the fans start to work. Check if they start working and also check if they continue working when printing is finished. If all is well, double-check if the direction of the fan is set correctly - they should blow over the model.

    3. Set fan speed in G-Code. Another cooling issue is related to excessive plastic in the top layer. It must cool quickly so as not to fall between the already printed supporting elements. The blower speed can be adjusted with the G-Code ( is usually the G-Code for Fan On is M106 and M107 Fan Off ). Also set the fan speed to maximum for the upper layers.

    For example, for a 1cm x 1cm cube, the height of the top layer would be 0.1mm. In this case, when generating a G-code through CURA for Prusa i3, the G-code indicates that the number of layers for the cube is 100. Considering that we specified heights of 0.6 mm for the top and bottom layers, it is worth editing the value to LAYER: 94

    4. Increase the thickness of the top layer . One of the simplest solutions to the problem is to increase the thickness of the top layer. In most applications, you will be able to adjust the thickness using the ‘Bottom / Top Thickness setting’ advanced settings. You need to increase the thickness of the top and bottom layers up to 6 times the other layers and up to 8 times for smaller nozzles and plastics. If the layer height is 0. 1mm, then the height of the top and bottom layers should be 0.6mm. If there are still holes and bald spots in the top layer, increase the thickness to 0.8mm.

    Checetalist:

    • Use a larger diameter
    • Make sure that the direction and speed of the fans are correct
    • Manually set the fan speed
    • DOSSED

    9053

    Description of the problem

    Cobwebs or hairs appear between model elements when printing.

    When the printer head moves over an open surface (without extrusion), i.e. from one object to another, the plastic flows out of the nozzle.

    Solution to 3D printing problem: Hairs, cobwebs

    1. Turn on retract . Retraction is an important factor for the quality of the finished model and can be enabled in the slicer. It functions quite simply and works by pulling the filament back into the nozzle before the head starts to move. The bottom line is that it prevents plastic from flowing out of the nozzle, which creates a "spider web" between objects.

    2. Retraction activation in settings . Most apps like Cura offer pull activation in settings and this is set by default. However, if you want more options, you can customize them further. For example, you can set the minimum head path before activating retraction.

    3. Minimum distance (mm) . If retraction is not working correctly, the easiest way to fix this is to reduce the minimum distance. Reduce it by 0.5mm until hairiness disappears. Activate retraction (retract) to increase the speed of printing.

    This problem has several causes. First of all, the thread diameter may not match the diameter set in the slicer. Also, the amount of extruded material may be lower due to incorrectly configured firmware. Another problem is that the nozzle can become clogged and this will cause under extrusion.

    3D Printing Solution: Underextruded

    1. Check filament diameter . Start with the simplest solution - check the filament diameter settings in your slicer. If you are not sure about the filament diameter and the recommended temperature, check the information on the packaging.

    2. Measure thread . If you still can't get the desired result and filament separation remains a problem, use a caliper to check the filament diameter. After measurement, adjust the settings of the slicing software. ( author's note - if you have a bowden hotend, then you need to unscrew the fitting from the hotend, enter the command (for example, in Pronterface) M302 : Allow cold extrudes and extrude a meter of plastic. If more or less is extruded, then you have an incorrect number steps per mm for the extruder If you have a direct hotend, then you need to unscrew the nozzle ( the nozzle can only be unscrewed when it is hot! ). It is also worth noting that even with the correctly set steps per mm value, when retracting, the distance traveled will be less than when extruding. This is because more resistance is experienced when retracting )

    3. Check printhead . After starting printing, most printers lift the print head off the model base. Check if the nozzle is clean.

    4. Set the extrusion factor to . If there is no difference between the actual extrusion diameter and the software settings, check the extrusion multiplier settings (or flow rate or flow compensation), they may be too low. Each slicing application solves the problem differently, but try increasing the ratio by 5% and restarting the print process.

    5. Open the Edit Process Settings window in Simplify3D and go to the Extruder tab - the extruder factor should be set to 1.0 which corresponds to 100%. Open the Material tab in Cura and increase the Flow settings (you may need to enable Flow in the Preferences window).

    Solution to 3D printing problem: Overextruding

    This problem is usually caused by the slicer's extrusion or flow ratio being too high.

    Learn more