3D delta printer plans

Delta printer Build from scratch - 3D Printers - Talk Manufacturing

Didrik_Petterss December 25, 2015, 9:49pm

#1

hello! Is there anyone that maybe could help me understand the calculations of the delta type printer?

Ive seen that there are different types of delta printers?

Rostock?

Kossel?

(Pros & Cons?)

(I want to build the type using smooth rod and gt2 belts) 500mm~ build height and 250mm Diameter heatbed “round/square” and carbon fiber 8-10mm rods as arms (with M8 uniballs)

I can’t find any good information, that explains all the angles, length of rods and tower spacings and so on!

If I knew then it would be easy to design it in auto desk inventor. I’m stuck guys and really need your help!

alexspeller December 26, 2015, 8:15pm

#2

http://www. thinkyhead.com/_delta/ might help with this

Didrik_Petterss December 26, 2015, 8:18pm

#3

Yes but it’s still hard to know which dimensions and where? Base? Radius and so on…

Didrik_Petterss December 27, 2015, 1:25am

#4

I’ve tried using that but I don’t understand how it’s measured or what it’s messuring?

3Detcetera December 27, 2015, 6:53pm

#5

A few questions…

Is this your first printer? Is this your first scratch build?

Just for knowledge and moving forward…

Know that there is NO THEORETICAL DIFFERENCE in how any of the deltas operate. They all perform the SAME way, based on the SAME calculations. The difference, is simply the hardware delivery. Either it’s using smooth rods, or linear rails, or some variation thereof. The critical (calculating) areas of ANY delta, are based around it’s smooth rod offset, length of its arms, and the offset of the carriages for starters. Honestly, if this is your first scratch build, I wouldn’t recommend reinventing the wheel on your first try. Not saying that you aren’t capable, but the delta platform is rare amongst makers for a reason… it’s very difficult to master. You could read all you want online, but experience will be your BEST teacher. You may want to consider using a prexisting design, then scaling up, once you’ve mastered that.

Didrik_Petterss December 27, 2015, 7:12pm

#6

Yes I understand that. I am capable of making one that’s for sure. I like the challenge to build stuff

i already have one homemade 3D printer (pursa type) and it’s a pretty simple and easy design.

The reason why I want to build my own delta is because I’m curious. And already have a pile of motors, controller boards on hand.

Feels like it’s a big waste of money to buy a Kossel for $200-1000 to just learn and understand the physics of the delta type. And there is even more money into it if I buy a printer that’s suits my needs?

It seems like there are more people intested in building their own delta to?

Thats why I’m starting this thread about it,

So that other people also can get their hands dirty

3Detcetera December 30, 2015, 6:23pm

#7

Definitely understood, as all of my deltas are custom made by myself. But it seemed as if you were interested in starting with something non-standard, vs building/copying a delta from plans that are already out on the web. I was simply saying, start with what’s already made, then grow into something you’ve designed for yourself.

Didrik_Petterss December 30, 2015, 8:00pm

#8

Yeah I’ll probably build one later on,

bought one from aliexpress (Kossel K800 XL version) as a start to learn and understand the Delta style. I’m pretty new to 3D printing and looking forward to get started

ive already built a 3D printer //build in progress

waiting for the last parts to arrive and then it should be ready

The whole delta printer style looked pretty hard at the beginning but as you say, the dimensions / rules is what you design it to be.

There isn’t any “rules” of building it, other than offsets and so on

i may or may not build another printer (depends on how this Ali printer is)

and if i do I’ll update this thread with information so that other people hopefully (newbies) like me can get started

there is for sure information about deltas on the internet but it’s hard to find!

3Detcetera December 30, 2015, 10:54pm

#9

What information are you looking for specifically?

If you will have a working printer soon, once you really learn the process, you’ll be able to print all your own parts. Then it’s just a matter of sourcing your own parts.

Didrik_Petterss December 30, 2015, 11:23pm

#10

I already got a Wanhao i3 and My other printer that im building,

just the general stuff about deltas,

I’ve seen that people talk about 80% rule (arm length) and so on.

And offsets to effector arm angles and such

I haven’t got time to do so much research.

And I don’t have any problem with designing and make a model/design neither to print the parts out from the CAD program.

It’s just that I’m afraid for doing a inefficient printer that’s big and bulky when it doesn’t need to?

My English isn’t the best, as you may have noticed XD

I’m trying to explain what I mean but it’s hard to put the right words for it XD

tpalagyi February 1, 2016, 7:02pm

#11

Hi,

As I have started my 3D printer experience with a Rostock Delta, then built a Kossel mini. I can tell you these printers are great looking fast machines but can be quite challenging to calibrate them well.

Their design looks simple and nice but there is a lot of work behind for all the parts. Like the effector(this is the middle part where the rods connect and where the hotend is ) where its really counts how wide are the rods connections and their offsets from each other and from the center of the effector and related to this there is an ideal height position for the hotends nozzle, because the effector will tilt some degrees when reaching the edge of the build plate and this can be limited with good design.

If you want to know more about the delta printers there is a google group with lot of smart people including of course Johann the father of all our Delta printers.

Here is an article to read:

http://fab.cba.mit.edu/classes/863.15/section.CBA/people/Spielberg/Rostock_Delta_Kinematics_3.pdf

Here is the google group please read as much as you can its a long journey to understand things

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/deltabot

Honz November 4, 2016, 4:35pm

#12

Hi Tamas (@tpalagyi),

I have some questions regarding the delat 3D printer.

How can I contact you?

Thanks

tpalagyi November 4, 2016, 6:36pm

#13

Hi,

You can drop me an email to tpalagyi82 at gmail.com with your questions, or continue here the discussion.

Tamas

tpalagyi November 8, 2016, 4:05am

#14

Hi,

Not received any mail from you yet.

T.

Honz November 8, 2016, 4:15am

#15

Hi, check your email now please. Thanks

3D printing technology – Delta versus Cartesian

Back

The 3D printing market is quite competitive and each printer has its own 3D printing technology and unique capabilities, so it’s important to know which printer is most suited for the results you want to achieve. As most 3D printers, Tractus3D printers use the FFF 3D printing method (also known as FDM 3D printing), which means everything is printed layer by layer using filament.

In the FDM 3D printing technology, two types of printing systems can be distinguished: Cartesian and Delta. The biggest difference between these two systems is the method of moving. Because each system has its own way of moving, you will achieve different results.

First more about the FDM technology

There are several different 3D printing technologies, but the most used is Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM 3D printing). The FDM technology is a Stratasys-patented additive manufacturing 3D Printing method of rapid prototyping. This process is also known as FFF 3D printing (Fused Filament Fabrication). The FDM technology is very popular. Over the past two decades, the FDM 3D printer has become even the most used 3D printing technology in the world.

With FDM 3D printing technology, the extrusion nozzle moves over the build platform horizontally and vertically. Thermoplastic material is heated to its melting point and then extruded, layer by layer, to create a three dimensional object. Each of these layers can be seen as a sliced horizontal cross-section of the eventual object. Once a layer is completed, the base is lowered to make room for the next layer of plastic. Once an object comes off the FDM 3D printer, its support materials can be removed.

In FDM 3D printing technology, there are two types of printing systems: Cartesian and Delta. The biggest difference is the method of moving. We will explain…

Delta 3D printer

Delta 3D printers also use the Cartesian coordinate system, but do not use linear-motion tracked movement to deposit the filament. Instead, they use three arms, each consisting of a parallelogram. They also move from one X or Y point to another, but do so by changing the angles of these parallelograms. The arms of a Delta 3D printer hang down from a fixed platform. All of the mechanics that drive the motion of the arms are located in that platform. As a result, the print head of the Delta 3D printer is a lot lighter than if it also had to contain motors for movement. This reduced weight leads to reduced inertia. By reducing the inertia, particularly at the end of a movement, the production head is able to respond quickly, while retaining its accuracy.

A Delta 3D printer usually features a circular print bed, which is immovable. Due to its circular print bed, the natural shape of a Delta printer is a circle. Therefore, rectangular objects tend to be rather small in comparison to a Cartesian 3D printer. What a 3D Delta printer excels at, in comparison to the 3D Cartesian printer, is its capability to build tall objects. Especially the highest point of the print can be made exceptionally accurate. It is also fairly easy to make them bigger, especially in height, due to their design. With an overall less complicated construction and less parts to be used, it reduces maintenance and costs. If you do not have/need a lot of horizontal space, but instead want to build a lot of layers on top of each other (vertical), then you should definitely consider a Delta 3D printer.

Its downside comes in the fact that a Delta 3D printer must be much taller than its build volume, due to the arm construction of the machine. This is why you will generally need more space to place your printer than you would with a Cartesian 3D printer.

Delta 3D printer disadvantages

• Format, it requires more space (in height)
• More difficult to pinpoint errors
• Harder to print objects with large surfaces (horizontal)

Delta 3D printer advantages

• Excels in printing in height
• Light, thus easy to move
• Instant change of direction possible
• More accurate in the centre than on outer limits
• Easy to maintain and upgrade
• High print speed and accuracy

Cartesian 3D printer

Cartesian printers owe their name to the Cartesian coordinate system they use, which was invented by Rene Descartes. They don’t just function based on an X and Y coordinate system, but also drive the print head on a mechanism that travels linearly on both the X and Y axis.

Cartesian printers move from left to right, front to back and up and down. Simply put, it gets from A to B by moving just one axis at a time. Most Cartesian printers consist of a square, moving print bed. Instead of having the nozzle move towards the print bed, the print bed moves towards the nozzle in some cases.

Cartesian 3D printers see their downside in the fact that their moving parts are quite heavy. Because of this, it is hard for a Cartesian printer to stop or change direction in an instant. The constant jerking of the platform can lead to prints coming loose and to inaccurate prints, especially when the prints get higher.

Cartesian 3D printer disadvantages

• Weight
• Hard to modify due to spatial constraints
• No instant change of direction
• Not fit to print tall objects
• Small build volume

Cartesian 3D printer advantages

• Excels in width (horizontal) prints
• Easier to learn due to understandable kinematics
• Consumer friendly
• Easy to enclose most models due to cubic frame
• Cheaper

'Delta' from 'zero' in two years or 'how to stop in time'.

A chaotic story about the construction of the 'Delta' 3D printer in the form of an album with pictures and brief, unintelligible explanations by the author. Some technical solutions. Print examples. Conclusions.

The post is made from 'what was' for the contest 'My 3D printer', nomination '3D printer assembled by my own hands'.

Two years of work in the evenings and weekends behind - it's time to share impressions...

A bit of history.

A few years ago, after assembling a 'drygostol' and printing plenty of finished models from thingiverse.com, having played enough, he sold the device at a reasonable price, abandoning this business for an indefinite period...

But again 'hit': two years ago after reading 'delta' on 3dtoday that it's not for the 'wimps' and,

for the most part out of my inherent stubbornness, I decided to build one. But not anyhow, but 'according to an adult')).

Started with theory. .. And then thanks to the 3dtoday.ru project: 9I got 9% of the information from here, then the design, the gradual purchase of spare parts for 'Ali' (as far as the family budget allowed)). Next - assembly, configuration, launch ... Then an idea for modernization appears and everything starts again, in a circle: theory, design, purchase of components, assembly, configuration, launch.

I started, like many others, with a minimum configuration: 2020 profiles cut to size from Soberizavod, arduino ramps, an unheated table - a mirror, a power supply from a laptop, carriages with rollers, etc... I printed a little ). I decided to add a 'hot table' and an LCD display... Well, it's gone))...

There are a lot of detailed solid articles on the portal about 'how I assembled', so I won't repeat myself, but I'll post a photo of my technical solutions with some explanations, and if anyone is interested and questions arise - welcome to the 'comments' - we'll talk there) .

There will be a lot of meat - little wood a lot of photos - little text. )) There are no photos of the early stages, so I publish from the moment the 'deep modernization' began.

How I designed.

This is how the .cdr file looks now with thumbnails. All design work followed the same scenario: sketch layout in CorelDRAW, then printing on a printer or cutting templates on a flatbed cutter, fitting in place, correcting sketches, importing for CNC milling (mainly for body parts and print head). I prepared drawings with dimensions only once, when I ordered laser cutting and bending of metal 'on the side'. Everything else I did myself. I was too lazy to design in 3D programs, although I work in 3DMax and Fusion 360, in which I make models for printing.

Assembly.

In the above photos, the new electronic components and the power supply are already packed in the bottom of the case and the first version of the case has appeared. (Vertical corner elements made of 1. 5 mm steel appeared not for beauty, but to increase the rigidity of the structure: during the first launches, even with the arduino ramps, I noticed the swaying of the entire structure ... Even for this size, the 2020 profile turned out to be thin. high-quality printing, you need a rigid frame.) In the lower left corner is the final version with the latest revision: removable panels on magnets that protect the model from drafts, and the working parts of the printer from dust.

Result.

This is what we ended up with:

Print area: D200mm*360mm, 2-material printing via 'Trianglelab' TL-Feeder System, plastic 1.75, Bowden feed, quick release 'heads' with 0.2, 0.4, 1.0 nozzles , extruder: two aluminum Bulldogs, one hot end E3D V6 (Clone. Heater 24V40W). MGN12 rails, NEMA17 stepper motors (1.7A, 0.73NM, 60mm), MK3 'hot table' (12V), 24V15A power supply, optical 'limit switches', 'Trianglelab' material end and autolevel sensors, MKS SBASE 32bit, MKS TFT32 , USB, Ethernet, SD, Firmware Smoothie. ..

All mechanics and electronics are ergonomically housed in a robust housing made of aluminum and steel (engineering profile 2020, aluminum sheet AMG-3: 2 and 4 mm, sheet steel 1.5 mm).

Parts:

• Table auto leveling. I considered several options for sensors: induction, piezo and mechanical. The first option was rejected for reasons of compactness and lightness of the 'print head', the second option did not survive the hot table test: piezo sensors refuse to work at temperatures above 80 degrees. Celsius, and installation on the print head complicates the design. I settled on this option: Trianglelab High Precision Z-probe Auto bed leveling sensor kit. I’ll make a reservation right away: it seemed strange that measurements can be taken with a cold hot end and a table (I quote the manufacturer: 'Please make sure that the nozzle and bed is cool down to room temperature before mount the sensor. The sensor will be destoryed if the nozzle temperature is too high ): no one canceled thermal expansion . .. But in practice, the sensor withstands heating of the table up to 100 gr. Celsius and when cold, clean! nozzle (warm up in advance, draw in the material and wipe) the error is not critical, and this option works great - the first layer is perfect.

The evolution of the print head.

I worked especially hard on the print head. Satisfied with the result. Lightweight, compact, durable, with the shortest possible nozzle overhang relative to the plane of the carriage. Moves easily and smoothly. Without eating. Allows you to quickly change nozzles with different nozzle diameters, as well as set the 'direct' for printing with flexible materials.

Details:

• Faced a friction problem in the magnet-spherical joint assembly: after several hours of operation, the magnet tore off the coating on the 'sphere'. Lubrication didn't help. I solved the problem very simply: with a heat shrink tube. With the use of silicone grease, the nodes worked for more than a hundred hours - normal flight.
• The silicone cover on the hotend is a nice and useful thing: it speeds up heating and protects from the 'wind' from the model's coolers (nozzles remained in the plans). It is inexpensive.
• 'Bowden' is not suitable for printing with flexible materials - you need a direct extruder (and they told me)). I ordered a lightweight extruder from 'Trianglelab' for Ali, added supporting spring-loaded cables, because the weak magnets could not even hold this weight. The print has gone! The variant of the removable direct extruder caught on and showed decent results.

And now about the main thing: how and with what does he print?

Materials tested ABS, PLA, HIPS, FLEX. Everything from 'BestFilament' (fast delivery, reasonable price). Haven't tried other manufacturers. All models in the photo are printed with a 0.4 nozzle, 0.2 layer (universal size). Temperatures as recommended by the manufacturer. The print quality is decent.

Printing with soluble supports - a separate conversation. I think I'll talk about it later.

Conclusions.

Building and customizing a 'delta' is possible... and even necessary! But it is important to stop in time so as not to be left without pants)), because this is an exciting business, and you can improve indefinitely.

You will definitely enjoy the process, and 3dtoday.ru will help speed up and possibly reduce the cost of your project)).

My 'quest' lasted almost two years and exceeded the initial estimate of 20 tr. twice and is now in its final stages (I hope)). There are some 'cosmetic' little things left, like the spool bracket on the top of the printer. Part of the announced amount was spent on experiments with various options for components, but everything was not in vain: there was experience and material for new projects (spare parts from the first version of the 'delta': 'steppers', limit switches, arduino ramps, etc. have already been used in the assembly laser engraver).

As a result of the total 'finishing' of the initial version, I achieved high print quality (see photo), and I think that the printer was a success!)

P.S. I suggest the organizers of the competition to establish a separate nomination 'The most photogenic 3D printer assembled by one's own hands' - for me)). What?)) In my opinion, he is unrealistically beautiful!))

3D printers in construction: prospects for application

At first glance, 3D printing structures seem to be some kind of shell of a half-finished building. But upon closer examination, you will not find even a brick. Layers of material seem to build up one on top of the other - this is how a complex structure is created. It's a futuristic world of 3D printing where robotic arms automatically layer and compress layers of concrete or plastic or any other material into a foundation and build a structure.

This method of construction is quite niche today - only a few prototypes of 3D houses and offices have been printed in the world. However, this technology represents an exciting and potentially powerful solution to building change.

What is 3D printing in construction, what is the potential, and will we be working on 3D printed projects in the near future?

1. What is 3d printing in construction?
2. 3D printers in construction: how is it done?
3. 5 examples of innovation
4. How can 3d printed projects help construction companies?
5. 3D printing distribution
6. Civil engineering 3D printing
7. Wiki House technology - an open source project for 3D printing: what is behind the concept
8. Reverse side of the coin
9. How 3D printing can be integrated into construction
10. About PlanRadar

3D printing in construction - what kind of technology?

3D printing for construction uses both a 3D printer, which has a robotic "crane-arm" that builds structures right on the construction site, and the creation of certain elements by printers at the factory, which are already assembled into a structure on site.

The concept of 3D printing is not new: it first appeared in the 80s. But it's only in the last decade that this technology has been improved enough (and the cost significantly reduced) to become a real mainstream.

3D printers are not much different from conventional inkjet office printers. The software tells the printer about the dimensions of the final product. And then the printer starts to output the material to the platform according to the plan. 3D printers often use liquid metals, plastics, cement, and variations of various materials that, when cooled and dried, form a structure.

In a 3D construction printer, the CAD or BIM programs tell the device what to print, and the machine starts layering the material according to the design plan.

3D printers in construction: how do they work?

3D printing concept - The printer extrudes a defined liquid mixture in layers, layer by layer, creating a design based on a 3D model. The prepared mix of concrete, filler, plasticizer and other components is loaded into the hopper of the device and fed to the print head. The mixture is applied to the surface of the site or to the previous printed layers. This is how most 3D printers work. Among them, there are three types of devices for 3D printing:

Robotic printer

Read also: New technologies in construction 2021

5 innovative examples of 3D printing

To date, only a few 3D printing projects have been implemented in the construction industry. Here are five of the most impressive and promising projects:

Dubai City Hall Office Building, UAE

1. Dubai City Hall Office Building, UAE

3D printed building. The office block built in the UAE is 9,5 meter high building with an area of ​​640 m2.

An Apis Cor 3D printer moved around an open-air construction site with a crane and erected various parts of the structure.

2. Office of the Future, UAE

Office of the Future, UAE

Another impressive 3D printed building in the UAE, the Office of the Future is a unique, fairly large structure that currently houses a temporary headquarters organization Dubai Future Foundation.

For this building, the elements were not created on site and were printed in 17 days, while the building itself was assembled in 48 hours.

3. WinSun 3D Printer Homes, China

WinSun 3D Printer Homes, China

WinSun 3D printing company in China has also applied factory-built 3D printers to build residential buildings. The company has created several house projects, including a small multi-storey building. All construction details can be printed quickly and cheaply and then quickly assembled on the construction site.

The company calculated that it could cost as little as $161,000 to build and print their five-story building.

4. 3D printed number plate in Lewis Grand Hotel, Philippines

3D printed number plate in Lewis Grand Hotel, Philippines

When planning a trip to the Philippines, consider staying at the Lewis Grand Hotel in Angeles City , Pampanga, where visitors will be greeted with the world's first 3D printed hotel suite. The hotel room was designed by Lewis Jakich, hotel owner and materials engineer, in collaboration with 3D printing specialist Anthony Rudenko. They created a massive 3D printer that prints sand and concrete based on volcanic ash. The room was printed in 100 hours.

5. Two-story mansion in Beckum, Germany

Two-story mansion in Beckum, Germany

The first 3D-printed residential building with an area of ​​​​about 80 square meters - the brainchild of the German construction company PERI GmbH and the architectural design bureau MENSE-KORTE ingenieure + architecture. A BOD2 3D printer was used to print one square meter of double wall cladding in 5 minutes. The building is a structure with three-layer hollow walls filled with insulating mass. Installation of hollow pipes and connections during printing was carried out manually.

3D printing in construction seems really impressive, but what are the real benefits of such technology?

How can 3D printed designs be useful for construction companies?

Proponents of 3D printing houses and commercial offices point to several advantages of this construction method:

• Zero waste construction