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Jewelry 3d print
Guide to Jewelry 3D Printing
Two techniques have historically defined jewelry making: handcrafting and lost-wax casting. Both techniques require significant technical expertise, are highly time-intensive, and mistakes in the process can prove expensive.
But today, digital design and 3D printing are primed to disrupt these age-old practices in a major way. Supplementing traditional processes with digital techniques such as jewelry 3D printing brings new possibilities in design and production to jewelers, as well as exciting new customization options for customers.
White Paper
In this white paper, learn how to cast fine jewelry pieces from 3D printed patterns and how direct investment casting, or lost wax casting, works as a moldmaking technique.
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3D printed jewelry production augments the principles of investment casting, or lost wax casting with the advantages of a digital design and manufacturing process.
With traditional lost-wax casting, jewelry designers hand-carve the original pattern in wax, place the wax pattern in a mold to be burned out, and then pour precious metals like gold or silver into the mold cavity to create the cast piece. To achieve its final appearance, designers polish and finish the cast piece to shine.
With the digital workflow, jewelers use CAD software tools for jewelry design to create the models digitally and a high-resolution 3D printer to produce the 3D printed jewelry patterns that can then be cast in a mold. After burnout of the positive pattern, the process follows the same path as traditional investment casting. Thanks to the digital techniques, the need for time-intensive manual labor is reduced and the design itself is easy to preserve, modify, and recreate when needed.
Sample part
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Until now, the complexity of the design and production process made customized jewelry an expensive privilege. With digital tools, however, jewelers have already started offering personalized creations as part of their basic service or as a value add. If you go to a jeweler today and ask for an engagement ring, often you'll have the option to customize a unique design.
3D printed jewelry try-on pieces drastically shorten the feedback loop between designer and customer.
Jeweller and customer can discuss the design together, and an hour later, the customer can hold and try on a real, physical model of the ring. In jewelry retail, on-site digital design combined with the speed of 3D printing has drastically shortened the feedback loop between designer and customer.
Moving from design to production is easier and faster, as hand carving a precious one-off is no longer a requirement. The try-on pieces can be tailored based on the customer’s requests, 3D printed again, and then manufactured with lost-wax casting, which translates to a considerable reduction in the cost of making customized 3D printed jewelry.
With 3D printing, jewelry designers are able to produce designs that would be incredibly difficult to hand carve in the traditional manner. Breakthroughs in castable resins are setting new standards for the quality available through an affordable desktop 3D printer.
3D printing jewelry patterns in Formlabs’ Castable Wax 40 Resin combines the smooth surface finish characteristic of stereolithography (SLA) 3D printing technology with precise print settings. Thanks to a precisely controlled laser, extraordinary design details—delicate filigrees, raised text, and detailed pavé stone settings—can be captured with amazing sharpness.
Stereolithography 3D printing can reproduce complex features that’d be difficult to hand carve.
With these long-established design restrictions now removed, we're seeing entirely new genres of design emerging from jewelers who digital capabilities in the US as well as in South Asia and Asia Pacific, and the Middle East.
Webinar
In this webinar, Patrick Diggins, our Jewelry Vertical Manager, will teach you how Castable Wax 40 can help you push the boundaries of design and production efficiency.
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Digital tools are not only making jewelry easier to customize, but also simpler to mass-produce designs.
Vulcanized rubber molds are used to produce wax patterns in quantity for lost-wax casting, but the “master” pattern is traditionally made from an investment cast, hand-carved wax pattern.
3D printers can produce master models that are used to form room temperature vulcanization (RTV) molds and even durable high temperature vulcanized rubber molds.
Directly 3D printed jewelry patterns can be used for room temperature vulcanization (RTV) and vulcanization of high temp natural rubber.
“With the quality that you can get with SLA 3D printing for printing these jewelry pieces, you can jump straight from the 3D printed part to a master mold,” said Formlabs' Jewelry Vertical Product Manager Amos Dudley. “The surface finish is already so smooth that it doesn't require very much finishing. You can use that as the rubber mold for creating the final wax parts that go into production.
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White Paper
3D printing with high-performance materials allows designers and casters to leverage digital technology in their production processes. Read now to learn how 3D printing can be used in the production of small metal parts.
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When new technology is finally made available to the public, it usually comes with a high price tag and a complicated interface, restricting it to users with deep pockets and technical savvy. Previous generations of jewelry 3D printers required both significant maintenance and a skilled operator in addition to thousands of dollars of investment that limited them to the largest jewelry manufacturers and casting houses. Nevertheless, Dudley notes, “3D printing has become much more affordable, offering unique opportunities to independent jewelry makers.”
The lower cost and higher-quality jewelry 3D printing technology have made the digital workflow a viable method of manufacturing.
“In the coming years, we're going to see a growing trend in that segment, with smaller jewelers adopting these technologies and becoming less centralized,” Dudley said.
This shift to increasingly competitive independent jewelers will continue as the industry becomes more familiar with castable resin 3D printing. Historically jewelry 3D printing has been dominated by complex and expensive wax 3D printers. With affordable desktop jewelry 3D printers like the Form 3+, the technology is becoming available to more jewelers, especially smaller independent ones.
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Owing to the formerly high cost of large-scale jewelry 3D printers and the perceived barrier-to-entry of digital jewelry design, 3D printed jewelry, despite its potential, currently represents a relatively small fraction of the market.
Nevertheless, with increasingly easy to use and accessible jewelry 3D printers, the digital workflows in the jewelry market are poised for growth. Desktop stereolithography 3D printers are an important component in this expansion.
High-resolution desktop 3D printers, like the Formlabs Form 3+, have made jewelry 3D printing accessible for independent designers as well as large casting houses.
“SLA resins have a reputation for being cheaper, but also less functional than wax. At Formlabs, we're looking to break that impression with products that are more foolproof and eliminate some of the extra work that’s still present in the jeweler's workflow,” Dudley said.
New, easy-to-use materials like Castable Wax 40 Resin are easing the learning curve, leading to greater adoption of the workflow and the subsequent expansion of the market.
3D printed jewelry is not just a matter of technology. The newer cohorts of jewelry designers entering the industry have started education with digital methods, including training on 3D printers, as opposed to the traditional ones.
“They're going to be looking for the printer that really meets their needs,” Dudley said. “I think then we'll start to see more adoption as they take over from the currently embedded user base.”
3D printing in jewelry has a bright horizon. With the wider industry adoption of workflow techniques, the arrival of new generations of designers skilled in them, and the creation of new, more foolproof materials and hardware, we're seeing the stage set for a major positive disruption.
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Choice of technology and 3D printer for jewelry making, pros and cons
Currently, there are many new technologies that are designed to simplify production in various industries.
Progress does not stand still and, despite some opponents, 3D printing has its own niche in the production of jewelry.
3D printing can speed up and reduce the cost of jewelry production due to the low cost of consumables. With 3D printers, jewelers have the ability to quickly change the design of a product and make prototypes at least several times a day. For many jewelry industries, 3D printing is becoming a good alternative or addition to milling machines and other equipment.
Until now, some believe that handmade is a sign of craftsmanship, especially when it comes to creative work, and models made using 3D modeling and printing are amateurish. But many people forget that behind the computer is the same person who not only mechanically presses the buttons, but also puts his soul into his creation.
Benefits of 3D printing
In order to understand how justified the use of a 3D printer is, you need to know how jewelry is made.
This is very painstaking work. No wonder the expression "jewelry work" appeared, denoting a very delicate and complex work.
Any decoration begins with a sketch. Usually several sketches are made in order to accurately determine the design and location of the inserts. Not only stones are used as decor, it can be elements made of wood, bone, precious metals, it all depends on the designer's imagination.
At the next stage, the product is drawn in a 3D editor. This allows not only to visualize the future product, but also to correct some errors and inaccuracies made at the design stage.
Ring model
Some craftsmen still carve "stencils" by hand. Such work requires certain skills and perseverance. Usually this is how products are made that will be cast in a single copy.
A finished 3D model can have several ways to be implemented in a physical version - this is milling or 3D printing.
Stencil milling
Currently, 3D printing is not much inferior in accuracy to a milling machine and often has a significant advantage in speed, despite the fact that after printing it is still necessary to separate the supports and clean up the points of contact with the model.
Once a physical model has been obtained, it can be cast immediately if the material used is wax or a burnable polymer.
If it is necessary to cast a large batch of products, then a mold is made from the master model made with the help of special rubber for subsequent wax casting. There are many types of rubber that vary in hardness and curing temperature. Rubber is selected depending on the material from which the master model is made.
For pouring molds, a special machine is usually used - an injector. In some models, you can not only heat the wax, but also vacuum it or leave it under pressure. This helps to reduce the number and size of air bubbles for better pouring of the rubber mold.
In home workshops, silicone is used instead of special rubber. After all, a special machine is needed to vulcanize rubber. But rubber molds are too soft and short-lived for making a large batch of stencils.
After making the required number of stencils, they are collected in "Christmas trees".
"Elks" are waxes soldered to a wax rod. To save space, the distance between them is very small and they resemble fluffy Christmas trees, hence the name. The finished Christmas tree is weighed to calculate the required amount of metal. In some places, stones are immediately inserted into the stencils, unless another mounting option is provided.
Stencil Christmas trees
Ready "Christmas trees" are placed in a special cylindrical "cassette" without a bottom, which is called a flask, and filled with a gypsum-based molding mass. The flask with uncured gypsum must be evacuated to get rid of unnecessary air bubbles that can lead to defects on the surface of the finished casting.
After hardening, the gypsum flask is sent to a muffle furnace to melt the wax.
The calcination mode is selected depending on the material of the wax. For wax or burnout polymer, different modes are needed in order for the material to be completely removed from the gypsum!!!!!!
When all the wax is melted, cavities are formed inside the gypsum, repeating the contours of the wax.
Metal is poured into these voids. After casting, the flask is cooled and the gypsum mold mass is washed out under the pressure of water. The result is a metal Christmas tree.
Herringbone after casting
Finished castings are cut from the Christmas tree and washed, polished, if necessary, blackened by the master until the desired appearance is achieved.
3D printers for jewelers
There are several 3D printing technologies that may be suitable for the needs of jewelers. Each has its pros and cons. Some 3D printers are ideal for a large workshop, and some are ideal for a small workshop.
SLA
SLA or stereolithography is based on the principle of layer-by-layer solidification of a photopolymer resin under the action of a UV beam. The UV beam is focused by means of mirrors on the surface of the resin and illuminates the model in layers.
How the SLA Printer Works
SLA 3D printers were the first to be noticed by jewelers.
SLA devices are compact, while they have high printing accuracy.
Pros and cons
pros
Minuses
Print examples
From prototype to finished product
Cast and printed ring
Rating of printers.
Leadership among the production of SLA 3D printers is held by Formlabs.
Formlabs Form 3
Formlabs Form 3
Specifications:
XY resolution: 25 µm
Laser spot size: 85 µm
Laser power: One 250mW laser
Working area size: 14.5×14.5×18.5cm
Layer thickness: 25 – 300 µm
A professional 3D printer that is popular with professional jewelers and dentists.
Formlabs Form 3L
Formlabs Form 3L
Specifications:
XY resolution: 25 µm
Laser spot size: 85 µm
Laser power: One 250mW laser
Working area size: 33. 5×20×30cm
Layer thickness: 25 – 300 µm
Form 3L differs from younger models in its large print area, which allows you to produce truly large products without losing quality and accuracy.
DLP/LCD
DLP is very similar to SLA, only as a source of UV radiation, to illuminate the photopolymer resin, not a directed beam of light is used, but a DLP projector. DLP printers illuminate the entire work area at once, so they greatly outperform SLA in print speed.
How a DLP Printer Works
Today it is one of the most affordable photopolymer 3D printing technologies. In terms of cost, LCD printers have caught up with the price level of amateur FDM. DLP printers are much more expensive due to the use of an expensive projector as a UV source.
The projector is of course more expensive, but more durable, on the other hand, the LCD display is not so expensive and can be easily seen, unlike the projector.
What to choose each user decides for himself.
Pros and cons.
pros
Minuses
Print examples
Comparison between 3D printed master model and molded part
Burnout resin model and finished product
Demonstration of products cast with burnout resin
Rating of printers.
The print accuracy of LCD printers depends on the pixel size, so you should pay attention to this parameter when choosing a printer.
Anycubic Photon Mono
Anycubic Photon Mono
Specifications:
LCD display resolution: 2560x1620 (2K)
XY Positioning Accuracy: 0.051mm
UV wavelength: 405 nm
Working area size: 130x80x165 mm
Layer thickness: 0.01-0.15mm
The Anycubic Photon Mono is an inexpensive LCD machine ideal for hobby printing.
The monochrome display allows you to reduce the exposure time and speed up printing.
Phrozen Sonic 4K
Phrozen Sonic 4K
Specifications:
LCD resolution: 6.1" 4K Mono LCD
XY positioning accuracy: 35 microns
UV wavelength: 405 nm
Working area size: 134x75x200 mm
Layer thickness: 0.01-0.30mm
Phrozen Sonic 4K is specifically designed for use in the dental and jewelry industry. Despite its compact size, the printer is not inferior to professional machines in accuracy, and the exposure time of one layer is only a few seconds.
Phrozen Sonic Mighty 4K
Phrozen Sonic Mighty 4K
Specifications:
LCD resolution: 9.3" 4K Mono LCD
XY positioning accuracy: 52 microns
UV wavelength: 405 nm
Working area size: 200x125x220 mm
Layer thickness: 0.
01-0.3mm
Phrozen Sonic Mighty 4K is a professional device with a large print area. This allows you to quickly produce small batches of models.
Phrozen Sonic XL 4K
Phrozen Sonic XL 4K
Specifications:
LCD resolution: 8.9" 4K Mono-LCD
XY positioning accuracy: 50 microns
UV wavelength: 405 nm
Working area size: 190x120x200 mm
Layer thickness: 0.01-0.3mm
The Phrozen Sonic XL 4K is a professional machine with a large print area and a high resolution monochrome LCD display. This allows you to quickly produce batches of products with high accuracy.
Peopoly Phenom XXL
Peopoly Phenom XXL
Specifications:
LCD display resolution: 3840x2160 (23.8", 16:9, UHD 4K)
XY positioning accuracy: 137 µm
UV wavelength: 405 nm
Working area size: 527x296x550 mm
Layer thickness: 0.
01-0.3mm
The Peopoly Phenom XXL is a device with a huge build area, which is ideal for serial production of not only jewelry.
Phrozen Sonic MEGA 8K
Phrozen Sonic MEGA 8K
Specifications:
LCD resolution: 15" 8K Mono LCD
XY Positioning Accuracy: 43 µm
UV wavelength: 405 nm
Working area size: 330 x 185 x 400 mm
Layer thickness: 0.01-0.3mm
This is the first LCD printer with 8k monochrome matrix resolution, and a huge working area allows you to produce large batches of products in one print.
MJM/MJP
MJM (or similar PolyJet technology) is a technology for layering photopolymer or wax through many fine nozzles. Typically, the print head is located from 96 to 448, depending on the printer model.
If a photopolymer is used as a material, it is immediately cured by a UV lamp, which is located on the printer's head.
How the MJM printer works
In addition to photopolymer, MJM 3D printers can use wax as a material for printing.
MJM printers can print multiple materials at the same time. This allows you to print complex models with soluble or investment supports. This makes it possible to produce complex models with a smooth surface quickly and easily.
Pros and cons
pros
-
Ability to print multiple materials at the same time. This means that another, soluble material can be used as a support. This allows you to save a lot of time on removing the support from the finished model and cleaning up the places where the supports come into contact with the print.
Minuses
-
To install the printer, most likely, you will need a separate room. 3D printers based on MJM technology are quite bulky in their dimensions, this is not a device that can simply be placed on a desktop or nightstand.
Print examples
Seal of a lot of stencils
Ring printed with wax
Master models made on MJM printer
Lot of jewelry stencils for further casting
Printer rating
FlashForge WaxJet 410
FlashForge WaxJet 410
Specifications:
Materials: Wax, support material.
Resolution: 1200*1200*1600
Building area size: 289*218*150mm
Layer thickness: 16 microns
Accuracy: ±0.04mm / 20mm
The FlashForge WaxJet 410 is an industrial machine designed for serial printing of wax models, which will then be cast from metal. Machines of this class can be useful not only in jewelry production, but also in the dental industry, aerospace, mechanical engineering, prototyping, etc.
Totals
Photopolymer 3D printers are no longer inferior in detail to professional milling machines. The main advantage of a 3D printer is the ability to produce models of complex geometry with many internal cavities that are physically impossible to produce on a router.
Large firms will appreciate the flexibility that allows them to quickly adapt to customer requirements, as well as quickly produce large and small batches of products due to the shortening of the production chain.
And for a small workshop, a small photopolymer printer with a can of burn-out resin can be a good help, eliminating the need to purchase some expensive machines.
Jewelry 3D Printing Ideas
The technology of photopolymer 3D printing is rapidly improving and is increasingly being used in the jewelry industry. 3D printing in jewelry is no longer a rumor, but an established reality. Rings, bracelets, brooches, earrings of the most unusual shapes can be printed on a “magic” 3D printer and then cast from metal.
All you have to do is choose a 3D printable file online or create your own 3D model using a 3D jewelry design software like 3Design, MatrixGold, etc. The file is then “cut” into layers in a special slicer program, appropriate settings are selected on the 3D printer and printing is started.
You can read more about the technology, comparing it with traditional manufacturing methods, and application examples on our blog in the Jewelry Making section.
Examples of unique jewelry that can be created with resin 3D printing:
3D printed skull ring
Skull rings are a common fashion accessory. They are worn by both men and women, regardless of style and occupation. The symbol of the skull, as the infinity of life and wisdom of the ancestors, is one of the most common and ancient in the history of mankind. Traditional jewelry making methods require long and painstaking processing of small and intricate details of the ring. A 3D printer will print it out for you, like Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K or Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K.
3D printed flower ring
A flower ring is something that almost every girl wants to have in her collection. For many of them, this is a must-have accessory. Flowers come in different sizes and styles, small and large, thin and graceful, or, conversely, massive.
For 3D printing, you can use model or burnout resin. According to the burnt-out model, in the future, you can cast a metal decoration. The range of resins is very large, there are high resolution 4K and 8K resins for creating highly detailed models. Models shown are in Phrozen Wax-like Castable Violet.
3D printed anchor
Anchor pendant is an incredible piece of jewelry inspired by the sea. It has a special meaning for people close to the sea. The anchor is a symbol of hope, stability and confidence in the future. It is associated with a ship that has landed on its native shore.
3D printed tiger pendant
According to Chinese astrology, this year is the Year of the Tiger! This means that people all over the world will wear tiger-themed jewelry.
