How to stop warping on a 3d printer

Prevent Warping - You Can Do It

In particular, if you frequently print with materials like ABS and HIPS, over time you will get annoyed by what is known as “warping”. This is an unsightly misprint in which part of the model bulges or warps. In the worst case, the print is completely detached from the bed.

Especially with functional parts, the accuracy of which is of great importance, warping can quickly mess up the entire print. Mostly, models with a large contact surface on the print bed are affected. In this article, you will find out what causes warping and how you can avoid the “warp effect”.

Causes of Warping

Warping occurs due to uneven temperature distribution and the resulting tension in the substrate. Since ABS or HIPS filaments warp more at uneven temperatures than PLA, for example, and tend to shrink during cooling, the warp effect can be observed more frequently with these materials.

If an ABS print is cooled down at room temperature, it can shrink by almost 1. 5%. The larger the print model, the more unevenly it cools, the layers shrink unevenly and parts of the print bulge.

So the reasons for warping mostly have to do with temperature:

Unevenly heated print bed
Too fast printing process
Incorrect location of the 3D printer (for example at the window)
Incorrect slicer settings
Contaminated print bed

Avoid warping - you can do it with these simple measures

1. Use a heated bed

A heated print bed keeps the model evenly warm during the printing process by equalising the temperature in the print object. At the same time, it also ensures better bed adhesion. If possible, the bed temperature should be just below the filament softening point, because: The higher the temperature of the bed, the lower the temperature difference in the individual filament layers and the resulting warping. However, be careful not to set the heating bed temperature too high, otherwise you risk plastic deformation of the model and intensification of the warp effect.

In addition, always preheat your heating bed and do not print immediately without waiting for a suitable temperature so that the heat can stabilise to some extent. The print bed can even be insulated for optimal heat distribution; temperature-resistant insulation from the automotive sector is very suitable for this.

2. Print in an enclosed print chamber

A closed housing keeps the temperature inside the model constant during the entire printing process. When printing with a heated chamber, you should always make sure to keep the doors closed during the printing process so that the heat inside cannot escape. You can find a suitable 3D printer cover in our shop.

3. Choose the right location for your 3D printer

A 3D printer should ideally be set up in a place where there are no drafts. A window seat, in the hallway or next to a door is therefore less ideal, as drafts of air unintentionally cool the print. Basically, you should regulate the room temperature by keeping windows and doors closed as much as possible.

4. Turn off the material fan for the first few layers

To prevent the bottom layers from becoming detached from the build bed, you can turn off or slow down the fan while the first layers are printing. Keep in mind, however, that the melted filament still needs to solidify quickly enough to allow a precise build-up of the layers.

5. Improve bed adhesion with adhesives or a suitable bed surface

As already mentioned, the lack of adhesion of the print to the bed can also lead to warping. To avoid warping your prints, use a build plate with good adhesion or improve your adhesion with adhesives, glue, blue tape, or a print bed coating.

Since most FDM printers are equipped with a glass or aluminium surface and the surfaces are often too smooth for printing thermoplastics, it can be worthwhile to use a flexible plate as a print bed upgrade.

6. Adjust your slicer settings

Not only can the temperature and print bed adhesion affect the bulging of your 3D print, but the wrong slicer settings also have an impact on your print quality.

Reduce your printing speed

Especially if you have frequent problems with warping, you should try to reduce your printing speed. At the same time, the nozzle temperature should also be reduced accordingly as the extra heat is not heated with this lower flow.

Use rafts and brims

A raft can help with larger and a brim with smaller components to avoid warping by building up a base layer, the edges of your model are “held” and these warp less. The raft can easily be detached from the model after printing.

7. Thoroughly clean your print bed

If you often have problems with warping or your prints do not adhere to the bed, clean it thoroughly with the cleaning agents provided. Stubborn residues such as glue can be removed with chemical solvents.

If your build platform is uneven or damaged, you should definitely replace it.

8. Use good quality filament

Last but not least, it should be said that you should always use high-quality filaments for successful 3D printing - and always adhere to the material-dependent application instructions. Only a high-quality filament that has been used correctly can achieve a beautiful print result.

What Causes 3D Print Warping and How to Prevent It

3D print warping is a common problem in fused deposition modeling (FDM) that causes parts to deform on the print bed. If you’ve ever noticed that the base of your 3D print is curling up and the corners are unsticking from the build plate, that’s warping. The good news is that there are several tips and tricks to prevent warping and improve your chances of a successful, warp-free 3D print.

What causes 3D print warping?

3D print warping happens when extruded filament layers on the 3D printer build plate cool too quickly and shrink. This causes the plastic material to contract and pull away from the build plate, resulting in warping (or curling, as it is sometimes known).

We can understand the problem of warping better if we zoom out a bit and look at the FDM process on the whole. In FDM 3D printing, a heated extruder deposits melted filament onto a print bed. This filament is made from a thermoplastic, a type of material characterized by its ability to melt into liquid form and resolidify when cooled. This means that in the printing process, as each layer is deposited, the filament hardens as it cools, but it also shrinks.

Thermoplastic filament shrinks as it cools; if it shrinks too quickly it can lead to warping

Warping occurs when the cooling process happens too quickly or unevenly and 3D printed layers shrink and pull on less solidified layers, ultimately lifting the first layer off the build platform and causing deformation. Though it is possible to experience warping with any type of 3D printed part, it is more common when 3D printing larger parts or parts with a large surface area. Certain 3D printing filaments are also more prone to warping than others. Typically, materials with a higher printing temperature, like ABS, suffer more from shrinkage because the temperature difference as they cool is more extreme.

How to fix 3D printer warping?

Fortunately, the chances of 3D print warping can be mitigated and 3D print outcomes can be improved using a few key techniques.

Bed Adhesion

One effective way to minimize the risk of 3D print warping is to improve your 3D printer’s build plate adhesion. Good bed adhesion will keep your 3D printed part stuck to the build surface and prevent the first layers of the print from curling up as they cool.

Bed adhesion can be achieved in a few ways. For example, there are dedicated 3D printer adhesives that can be applied to the build plate before printing. Many also opt for more DIY adhesives, like glue sticks and hairspray. A third option is tape, which is placed on the build plate surface. Painter’s tape is a popular option because it can be removed easily and the porous texture of the non-stick side keeps filament stuck down.[1] Kapton tape is also commonly used to encourage bed adhesion.

If you are using adhesives on your 3D printer, be sure that the print surface is clean before and after printing. Glue residue can cause an uneven print surface, potentially impacting calibration and the quality of future prints. It is also a good idea to try a test print if you are using a new adhesive to ensure it keeps the bottom layer of the print down but can also be easily unstuck when the print is done.[2]

An enclosed build chamber can reduce the risk of warping by maintaining a stable print temperature.

Temperature

Because cooling filament too quickly is what causes shrinkage and warping, it is key to control the temperature of your build as much as possible. 3D printer temperatures can be regulated using different methods or a combination of approaches. One of the most effective tricks for improving bed adhesion is to use a heated build plate. Each type of filament will have its own recommended bed temperature for good adhesion—for example, PLA works best with a heated bed at a temperature of between 60 and 70°C, while ABS requires a hotter print bed of between 100 and 120°C.[3]

Using an enclosed print chamber can also help to maintain an ambient temperature throughout the printing process and stop 3D printed layers from cooling too quickly. Many 3D printer models have a built-in enclosed chamber, but those that don’t can still benefit from a DIY enclosure. Other ways to improve temperature consistency in your 3D printer are to adjust cooling fan speed settings (especially for the first layers of a print) and keeping your room temperature as ambient as possible (i.e. keeping cold air out by closing windows).

Brim or Raft

Brims and rafts are tried and true techniques for boosting bed adhesion, especially for ABS and other high-temperature filaments. These 3D print features are added in slicer software right before printing and have several functions.

Specifically, a brim is a 3D printed border that connects to and goes around the edges of a 3D printed part. Brims are typically a few millimeters wide and consist only of 1-2 layers. They increase the footprint of the 3D printed part and anchor its edges to the build platform. A raft is similar, only it is also printed under the 3D printed part, acting as a base for it.

Brims and rafts are especially beneficial for 3D printed parts with unbalanced geometries or small footprints, as they can stabilize the print and secure it to the build surface. Both brims and rafts must be removed after printing, either by hand (by peeling them off) or using a tool. Printed parts with brims or rafts may require additional post-processing to achieve a smooth first layer.

3D printed brims can help to anchor the printed part down to the build platform.

Slicer settings

The risk of warping can also be reduced substantially by implementing the right print settings for the first layers of the printed object. Most slicer software programs allow you to adjust the print speed and layer height specifically for the first layer. A slower print speed for the first printed layer of a build will help to ensure that the filament sticks to where it has been deposited and is not pulled by the nozzle as it moves. Choosing a slightly thicker layer height for the first layer can also improve bed adhesion and help reduce any leveling inconsistencies.

Another print setting that can influence warping is fan speed. Fans are built into some FDM 3D printers and ensure the build space does not get too hot. By tweaking fan speeds you can maintain closer control over print cooling. For example, fans can be programmed to turn on only after the first few layers of a print have been deposited. This helps the first layers cool slowly and evenly on the print bed.

Conclusion

3D print warping is a frustrating problem most makers will encounter at some point or another. By following the tips and methods laid out in this article, however, you can ensure good bed adhesion, consistent printing temperatures, and ultimately reduce warping and improve print quality overall.

References

[1] TapeManBlue, 2022. “The Complete Guide to Blue Tape for 3D Printing”. [Internet]

https://tapemanblue.com/blogs/tips-tricks/blue-tape-for-3d-printing [Accessed March 31, 2022].

[2] Ultimaker, November 10, 2020. “Build plate adhesion: How to get your print to stick to the build plate”. [Internet] https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012015680 [Accessed March 30, 2022].

[3] Simplify3D, 2022. “Warping”. [Internet] https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/not-sticking-to-the-bed/ [Accessed March 30, 2022].

How to avoid deformation of models when 3D printing

There is nothing “better” than walking away from the printer for a couple of hours and taking a nap, and returning to find this:

Vermicelli. Plastic

Sound familiar? Yes, these are the same “angel hair”, “spaghetti” or “vermicelli” obtained by tearing the model off the desktop. The cause of such a disaster is often the deformation of the layers. Twisting the edges of the model up causes the extruder to catch on the model and simply break or tear it off the platform. Then begins the artistic filling of the environment with plastic thread in the artistic style of Jackson Pollock. nine0003

Left: No. 5, 1948. Author: Jackson Pollock. Fiberboard, oil. Price: $140 million
Right: Angel hair, 2013. Author: Ravix. Prusa Mendel printer, ABS plastic. Price: $0

But the charms of deformation don't stop there. What is the easiest way to quarrel two "makers"? Correct answer: ask them which is better - PLA (polylactide) or ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene). ABS - a thing, of course, tempting. This plastic is strong, durable and inexpensive. Polylactide, in general, is also relatively inexpensive, but relatively soft and biodegradable - with all the ensuing consequences. So why are popular devices like the Makerbot Replicator built to print with only polylactide? The environmental friendliness of PLA is a secondary reason, rather a bonus. And the main reason is the low glass transition temperature and minimal shrinkage. It does not require heating to ultra-high temperatures for melting, and when cooled, although it shrinks, losing volume, but not much. In other words, printing with polylactide is easier. But ABS “shrinks” quite noticeably, losing up to 8% of its volume. If you do not control the temperature regime, then you can get curvature and even cracks. nine0003

In our article, we propose to consider methods for eliminating deformation.

1 Use heated platform
2 Choose the right adhesion
3 Cleanliness is key to good printing
4 Height calibration
5 You drive more quietly - you will continue
6 Don't catch cold on your model
7 Turn down the heat
8 Reduce the density of model
10 Lugs
11 Thresholds
12 Thermowalls

Use Heated Bed

Heated Build Bed

This option is offered with many modern 3D printers, and in the case of the RepRap, you can modify it yourself. Let the heating add to the cost of the printer, but it's worth it. Heating the model from below allows you to slow down and even out the cooling process. If small PLA models can be printed without heating, then when printing large objects, a heating element is no longer necessary, since even a slight shrinkage of PLA has a cumulative effect with increasing model dimensions. When printing with ABS plastic, heating is simply necessary, otherwise the rapid shrinkage of the lower layers will lead to deformation of the upper, still hot parts of the model. It is worth paying attention to the uniformity of the platform heating. If the heating is not uniform, then the very first layers, cooling unevenly, can “twist”. Often the glue or tape used to hold the model in place won't even help. The edges will rise, the extruder will hook on the applied layers, and then - "vermicelli". nine0003

Choose the Right Adhesion

Kapton is a Great Platform Coating

If the plastic won't adhere to the platform, you're in trouble. Which one is the best - there is no consensus. There are tables made of aluminum, glass (even basalt), steel, titanium. Seasoned RepRapers pray for Kapton, a polyimide film applied to the surface of the platform. By the way, the film can be processed with a fine-grained emery cloth - a rough surface will contribute to the "seizure" with the plastic. Some users spray the surface of the platform with an aerosol adhesive containing acetone (to set the ABS), or even hairspray! nine0003

Cleanliness is the key to good printing

If the build platform is covered in dust, plastic will stick to the dust. How this will affect the adhesion of the model to the platform itself hardly needs to be explained. If you are printing with ABS, you can wipe the platform with acetone to dissolve the small pieces left from previous models. Acetone has no effect on polylactide, but you can try Limonene. By the way, the thread should also be kept clean, because the accumulation of dust in the extruder is fraught with all sorts of interesting, but unpleasant consequences. One simple method to clean the filament (if it's already dusty) is to use a foam filter before feeding it into the extruder. nine0003

Height calibration

Trying to print a cube with too much initial distance between nozzle and bed

A correctly applied first layer is the cornerstone of successful printing. If the head sits too high above the platform when applying the first coat, the adhesion may be too weak. This problem is solved experimentally: if your model breaks off the platform, try lowering the initial head height in small steps. If the platform is heated, then it makes sense to carry out the calibration in a heated state, because the deformation of the platform during heating can make the “cold” calibration inaccurate. nine0003

Slower ride - farther you will be

Reducing print speed can reduce model deformation

Yes, unfortunately, 3D printing even small objects takes a lot of time. But in order to increase adhesion to the platform and give the layers extra time to cool evenly, it may be necessary to slow down the printing process. This is especially important when working with PLA, because the polylactide takes a long time to cool down, and the lower layers can undergo deformation under the pressure of the upper layers if they do not have time to pass the glass transition point. nine0003

Don't catch cold on your model

Maker Case - a cabinet for 3D printers that prevents drafts

Drafts can have negative consequences not only for real people, but also for plastic ones. A banal draft can lead to uneven cooling of the model - hypothermia on one side, followed by one-sided shrinkage and lopsidedness. No wonder many manufacturers prefer to make closed cases for their printers. In addition, the tightly closed housing helps maintain a high background temperature in the working chamber, which is good when working with ABS plastic. But when printing PLA, you may have to remove one of the panels or open the door (depending on how the case is arranged) to help cool the model faster. Many manufacturers install additional fans on their extruders to blow off the fresh layers of polylactide (we counted three on the PrintBox3D One!). Although, in general, this is a sound idea, it often has the opposite effect, since only one side of the model is blown. In the case of PrintBox3D One, the calculation was made to quickly cool fresh layers - before subsequent layers become a barrier to airflow. And Picaso Builder uses a tricky system of channels built into the extruder to evenly blow the model from above. nine0003

Turn down the heat

Not yours. This refers to the temperature of the extruder. The ideal option is to heat the extruder to a temperature slightly above the glass transition temperature of the plastic, so long as the extrusion proceeds normally and the layers “seize” among themselves. After all, the stronger the plastic is heated, the longer it will cool down, and the more noticeable the shrinkage will be. But keep in mind that such experiments can bring additional stress on the extruder mechanism, up to and including damage to it. Yes, the nozzle can get clogged. Be careful. nine0003

Decrease the density of the model

Various degrees of filling

The model can be homogeneous (solid piece of plastic), hollow (walls on the outside, absolutely nothing inside), or lightweight (seemingly solid, but inside filled with plastic mesh or honeycombs) . The last option has a lot of advantages. This includes savings in materials compared to solid models, good strength compared to brittle hollow models, and, finally, a reduced likelihood of deformation. The logic is quite simple: the larger the surface of the layer in contact (i.e., sticking together) with the platform, and the smaller the volume of plastic in the following layers, the less likely the lower layer is to twist when the upper layers shrink. Add the already described substrates here, and the chances of successful printing increase many times over. nine0003

Print with a backing

Printing a wheel on a backing

A backing or "raft" is the base of the model, made in the form of a grid. Due to the high porosity, such structures cool quickly and evenly, and then serve as a reliable basis for the present model. The larger and thicker the substrate, the stronger and more reliable it is. Here you already have to find the perfect balance between functionality and material consumption. Many digital modeling programs (such as Skeinforge or ReplicatorG) have built-in underlays. nine0003

Lugs

Model with lugs

The problem with underlays is that they can seriously degrade the quality of the bottom layer of the model. After all, all this extra plastic will have to be removed, right? Alternatively, you can print the extensions of the bottom layer (the so-called "lugs") in the most vulnerable places for twisting - for example, in the corners. The lugs will help hold the edges in place until the bottom of the model hardens. After printing, they will be much easier to remove than the backing. The disadvantage of this technique is the need for an additional work surface. nine0003

Thresholds

Threshold Model

Essentially it is a combination of lining and lugs. The oversized lining is built on with additional objects (“thresholds” or “visors”) whose sole purpose is to hold the lining in place. The most effective method of preventing deformation of the lower layers, but also the most costly in terms of materials. The advantage is the fact that the “thresholds” themselves do not touch the model, and therefore, at the end of printing, only the substrate itself will have to be cleaned from the model. nine0003

Thermal walls

A kind of draft control. The idea is based on the construction of thin walls around the model, which keep warm air inside and contribute to a more uniform cooling of the model. In fact, this is an alternative to the closed printer case. The walls themselves can be deformed, but since they are not part of the model, this is not a problem. The downside is the additional consumption of materials.

If you have your own tricks, write to us at [email protected] nine0003

Go to the main page of the Encyclopedia of 3D Printing

I bought a 3D printer as a beginner. Choosing, setting up, problems and solving practical problems / Sudo Null IT News

A few months ago, I was thinking about purchasing such a device because I wanted to print a broken part of my robot vacuum cleaner. About a month ago I bought a device I liked on eBay. That's what was important to me when choosing a 3D printer. nine0013

Which printer was needed?

Considering that I knew almost nothing about 3D printers (except for a few articles read here on Habré), the important points were:

Printer performance out of the box. I have seen several articles describing how long it takes to set up a "simple Chinese printer". It needs to be assembled from a large number of parts, and it is not a fact that there will not be defective ones among them. Once assembled, you can mess around with the device for a couple of days, and then it turns out that for some reason it does not work. In short, I needed a printer that didn't need to be assembled and that could work right out of the box. nine0023
It shouldn't be too expensive. Seriously, I'm new, I was not sure that after a couple of days I would not abandon the device. And a printer for 500-600 euros would be too expensive a toy. So I was willing to spend a couple of hundred, no more.
It should not be too big. Before buying, I allocated a little space for installing the printer, somewhere around 50 * 50 cm. Therefore, the printer had to stand on the allocated area without any problems.
It shouldn't be too difficult to maintain. This point is closely related to the first. I didn’t want to spend a lot of time on operation and maintenance work - there is sorely not enough time, so constantly eliminating emerging glitches is not an option. nine0023
I wanted to get a printer with WiFi, it was not critical, but important.

What did I end up buying?

Model Geeetech E180. It was shown by Google after the query “3D printer for beginners”. There were other models in the search results, but this one was liked by the design and the presence of WiFi.

The developers of this printer raised money for it with the help of Kickstarter and a couple of years ago it appeared on the free market. Its price is from 200 to 350 euros, depending on the company that sells it and the store. nine0003

Bought on eBay, starting price was 200 euros, but the seller agreed to drop 50 euros, so the total price is 150.

Printer specifications:

Print technology: FDM
Working space dimensions: 130 x 130 x 130 mm
Printing accuracy: 0. 05 mm
Positioning accuracy: X / Y 0.11 mm, Z 0.0025 mm
Print speed: 80-110 mm/s
Thread diameter: 1.75 mm
Nozzle diameter: 0.4 mm
Supported material: PLA declared by the manufacturer, but may work with other materials
Operating system: Windows
Management software: EasyPrint 3D
File format: .STL, G-code
Maximum extruder temperature: 230 °C
Power supply: DC 12V 6A
Connectivity: WiFi, USB, TF card (offline printing support)
Display: 3.2" full color touch screen
Chassis: metal plate + injection molding (portable console 3D printer)
Work table:
XYZ Rods: wear resistant, stainless steel screw and lead (Z axis)
Stepper motors: 1.8 degree stepped angle with 1/16 micro stepping

Unpacking and setup

Before setting up, I looked at several reviews and tests of the printer. If not for them, I would not have done it myself, the explanation in the instructions is slurred. The setup is simple, but not for a beginner. nine0003

The printer "wound up" as soon as I connected it to power and a laptop. I calibrated the position of the table - it turned out to be simple - inserted a microSD card into the slot, found the contents through the menu on the printer screen, inserted the fiber into the channel and started printing. The printer made a noise and started printing. Or rather, I thought that he started typing, in fact it was not so.

Problems

The printhead moved, the temperature reached 205 degrees Celsius, but there was almost no plastic - in the first few seconds, a few plastic “hairs” came out and that was it. The printer continued to work, but the plastic was not squeezed out of the head. nine0003

I wasted several Saturday hours trying to figure out why. I tried to look for an explanation on the net, but solutions to similar problems did not suit me.

The joy of buying disappeared in the first couple of hours of fuss. I wanted a printer that “just works”, but it didn’t work out. As a result, I realized that the fiber was not being fed - the feed mechanism hidden under the plastic cover simply did not work. It did not work because the constituent elements did not rotate. There was no movement at all.

I have decided that the printer has a defective electric motor that is responsible for feeding, and I cannot repair it. The next step is to click the Return to Seller button on eBay. After clicking the button and describing the problem, I decided to pack the printer for shipping. Before sealing it in a foam box, just in case, I decided to carefully examine those “insides” that are visible through the holes in the case. nine0003

And the reason was immediately found - the assembler at the factory simply forgot to connect the power supply to the engine. Seriously, the cable just dangled inside the case. I connected it to the right connector with tweezers without disassembling the printer. Then I turned on the device again and this time everything was fine, the plastic feed worked as it should.

Then a few more minor problems arose:

Misaligned table. This caused the table to skew and the print head was pressed against the surface in one place. As a result, the plastic could not be squeezed out of the head, which led to solid print defects; nine0023
Unable to directly print models downloaded from the Internet. As a beginner, I thought that everything works like with a regular printer - I downloaded a document, sent it to print. It turns out that slicing is also needed. I will not repeat what it is and why it needs to be perfectly described in this article on Habré;
Slicers are not compatible with the printer model. Slicer needs to set printer desktop size. Some slicers for some reason did not want to work with the dimensions of my printer (13*13*13 cm). Some even crashed (including the printer's native application), some did not "understand" the dimensions. As a result, I settled on ideaMaker; nine0023
No WiFi. As it turned out, there are two varieties of E180 - one with an integrated WiFi module, the second - without a module, you need to buy it in addition. At the seller, the inscription "need a separate module" was applied to one of the photos of the printer, small and in French (everything else was in English). Not a scam, but close to it. The module decided not to buy more, it is not really needed;
Long printing time. I thought it would take several tens of minutes to print. I was not ready for the fact that large models can be printed for 6-8 hours. This is my own fault - I did not carefully look at the reviews. nine0023

Practical use

I didn’t buy a printer for a game, I wanted to get a device that would allow me to create things I need in everyday life, and not run to the store. Before buying, I outlined what I wanted to create:
The lever for separating the water tank in the iRobot Scooba robot vacuum cleaner, the repair review of which I published on Habré. His native pen broke, he did not want to spend money on buying a new one (they are relatively rare, since Scooba is no longer produced and expensive). nine0003

Finally found a suitable model on Thingiverse and printed it. To my surprise, everything fell into place the first time, the pen still works quite normally (it's been about a month since this part was printed).

Chinese electron microscope stand. I needed it for soldering small parts. I do not want to buy a professional microscope for 400 euros, since I myself do not do repairs very often. A Chinese microscope connected to a laptop is quite an option. But his native tripod is just terrible. Therefore, I wanted to make a new, normal one with my own hands. nine0003

Soldering iron stand. You just need a comfortable stand, from which the soldering iron will not fall, like from a Chinese stand that I once bought.

Paste tube squeezer. Yes, the thing is not the most necessary, but practical.

iPhone stand. Convenient, there is a hole for the cable, sound amplification.

Toys for children. Why buy another little doll or dollhouse piece when some things can just be printed out? nine0003

Stylus for Nintendo DS Lite. I had a game console bought at a flea market for a long time. The stylus was lost and I (and my daughter) played using the PDA stylus. Recently I found a stylus model for the console, printed it out - it turned out perfectly. It fits into the connector like a factory one.

Extractor for printed parts stuck to the table. Nearly all parts stick to the printer's desktop backing. You can’t do without a special device - an ordinary knife will scratch and cut a special sticker. I found a model that is compatible with the blades of a standard utility knife - works great. nine0003

The printer lived up to my expectations. It was possible to print almost everything that is indicated above. All these things fulfill their purpose, and most importantly, I am not afraid that any of them may fail. You can always print a new one.

There are a lot of ready-made models on the net. If you need some detail or thing, in 90% of cases you can find everything you need.

Troublesome little things

Printed parts are far from perfect. In some cases, deformation of some elements occurs and it is necessary to “finish” manually, using a knife and, in fact, a file. It doesn't happen that often, but I wish the printed part didn't need to be reworked (yes, I know you can get it by buying a professional 3D printer). nine0003

Sometimes details are printed, but for some reason the real and declared size do not match. So, I tried several times to print different dispensers for AA and AAA batteries, but for some reason the ready-made dispensers did not fit. The diameter of the holes into which the batteries are inserted was always somewhat smaller than the diameter of the batteries themselves. I still do not understand whether the problem is on my part, or the model is problematic. As a solution, you can simply increase the scale of the part in the slicer, by 10 percent. But it’s a pity for the spent plastic - after all, you can find out whether a quality part will turn out or not only after a solid part of it is ready. nine0003

It takes a long time to print a part. Some printouts take hours to complete, so making a simple car phone stand can take half a day.

In order to develop something of your own, you need knowledge of CAD , at least at an elementary level. Otherwise, you will have to look for ready-made objects on sites that host models created by someone. In the end, I never found a battery cover for one of the remotes. I am not able to develop it myself - there is almost no time to master CAD. nine0003

My printer desktop is small . Not all objects that I would like to print can be implemented. In particular, I wanted to get a different microscope stand model. But it did not work out, because it is larger than the printer table.