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How to Make an STL File & 3D Model From a Photo/Picture – 3D Printerly

 3D printing has many amazing capabilities that people can make use of, one of them is making an STL file and 3D model from just an image or photo. If you are wondering how to make a 3D printed object from a picture, you are in the right place.

Keep reading through this article for a detailed guide on how to create your own 3D model from just a picture.

Can You Turn a Picture Into a 3D Print?

It is possible to turn a picture into a 3D print just by inserting the JPG or PNG file into your slicer like Cura and it will create a 3D printable file that you can adjust, modify, and print. It’s advisable to print these vertically standing to capture the detail, and with a raft underneath to hold it in place. 

I’ll show you the very basic method to turn a picture into a 3D print, though there are more detailed methods that achieve better results which I’ll describe further in the article.

Firstly, you want to find an image which I found in Google Images.

Find the image file in the folder you placed it in then drag the file straight into Cura.

Set the relevant inputs as you wish. The defaults should work just fine but you can test these out and preview the model.

You’ll now see the 3D model of the image placed on the Cura build plate.

I’d recommend standing the model up vertically, as well as placing a raft to secure it in place as shown in the Preview mode in the picture below. When it comes to 3D printing and orientations, you get more accuracy in the Z-direction as opposed to the XY direction.

This is why it’s best to 3D print statues and busts where the details are created in line with height rather than horizontally.

Here is the final product printed on an Ender 3 – 2 hours and 31 minutes, 19 grams of white PLA filament.

How to Make an STL File From an Image – Convert JPG to STL

To make an STL file from an image, you can use a free online tool like ImagetoSTL or AnyConv which processes JPG or PNG files to STL mesh files that can be 3D printed. Once you have the STL file, you can edit and modify the file before slicing it for your 3D printer.

Another technique you can do to make a more detailed 3D print which has the outlines of your model is to make a .svg file in the exact shape you want to create, edit the file in a design software like TinkerCAD, then save it as a .stl file which you can 3D print.

This .svg is basically a vector graphic or an outline of a picture. You can either download a common vector graphic model online or create your own model by drawing it on a piece of software like Inkscape or Illustrator.

Another cool method to turn a single image to a 3D model is to use a free online tool like convertio which processes images to an SVG format file.

Once you have the outline, you can adjust the measurements in TinkerCAD to how high you want it, to recess or extend parts and plenty more.

After you have done your modifications, safe it as an STL file and slice it as usual in your slicer. You can then transfer it to your 3D printer via SD card as usual and hit print.

The printer should then turn your picture into a 3D print. Here’s an example of a user converting SVG files to STL files with the help of TinkerCAD.

Using resources and software programs that you can find online for free, you can convert an image in JPG format to an STL file.

First, you need the image itself. You can either download one from the internet or create one yourself, e.g.  creating a 2D floor plan using AutoCAD software.

Next, search for an online converter on Google, e.g. AnyConv. Upload the JPG file and press convert. After it is done converting, download the subsequent STL file.

While you can directly export this file to a suitable slicer to obtain a gcode file that you can print out, it is advisable to edit the file.

You can either use one two popular software programs, Fusion 360 or TinkerCAD to edit the STL file. If your image is less complex and has basic shapes, then I’d suggest that you go for TinkerCAD. For more complex images, Autodesk’s Fusion 360 will be more suitable.

Import the file to the relevant software and begin editing the image. This basically involves a couple of things including, removing parts of the object that you wouldn’t want to be printed out, changing the thickness of the object, and checking all the dimensions.

Next, you’ll need to scale down the object to a size that can be printed on your 3D printer. This size will depend on the dimensions of your 3D printer.

Finally, save the edited design of your object as an STL file that you can slice and print out.

I found this YouTube video which looks very useful when converting JPG images to STL files, and editing in Fusion 360 for the first time.

If you prefer using TinkerCAD instead, then this video will take you through the whole process.

How to Make a 3D Model From a Photo – Photogrammetry

To make a 3D model from a photo using photogrammetry, you’ll need a smartphone or camera, your object, some good lighting, and the relevant software to put the model together. It requires taking several pictures of the model, inputting it into a photogrammetry software, then fixing any errors.

Photogrammetry involves taking a lot of pictures of an object from all different angles and transferring them to a photogrammetry software on your computer. The software then creates a 3D image from all the images you have taken.

To start, you will need a camera. An ordinary smartphone camera will suffice, but if you have a digital camera, that will be even better.

You will also need to download a photogrammetry software. There are multiple open source software that you can download e.g. Meshroom, Autodesk Recap and Regard 3D. If you are a beginner, I’d recommend Meshroom or Autodesk ReCap which are pretty straightforward.

A powerful PC will is also be essential. These kinds of software put quite a load on your computer when creating a 3D image from photos. If you have a computer with a GPU card that supports Nvidia, it will come in handy.

After deciding on the object you want to turn into a 3D model, position it well on a level surface before you start to take photos.

Ensure that the lighting is crisp, for the results to turn out nicely. The photos should not have any shadows or reflective surfaces.

Snap photos of the object from all possible angles. You will also want to do some close up photos of the darker areas of the object to catch all the details that might not be visible.

Proceed to download the Autodesk ReCap Pro from their website or download Meshroom for free. Set up the software you have chosen to download.

After setting up the software, drag and drop the images there. The software automatically detects the type of camera you use for it to correctly carry out the right computations.

The software will take some time to create the 3D model from the pictures, so you have to be patient. After it is done, you can export the 3D model in STL format to your desired slicer.

After slicing the files, you can transfer them to a USB flash drive or SD card. Input the device used to transfer to your printer and print out the 3D model of your photo.

For a more detailed explanation of this process you can take a look at this YouTube video.

You can also look at the video below to get a more detailed explanation of using the Autodesk ReCap Pro software to create a 3D model from photos.

There are other software applications out there that do similar things:

• Agisoft Photoscan
• 3DF Zephyr
• Regard3D

How to Make a 3D Lithophane Model From a Photo

A lithophane is basically a molded photo that has been created by a 3D printer. You can only see the image that has been printed once you place it in front of a light source.

Making a 3D Model lithophane from a photo is a fairly simple procedure. First, you’ll need a photo. You can choose a family portrait you have saved on your desktop, or just download any other free-to-use photo online.

Use 3DP Rocks

Search for an image to lithophane converter online like 3DP Rocks. Upload the photo you want to convert or simply drag and drop it to the site.

Choose the type of lithophane you would like the photo to be converted to. The outer curve is mostly preferable.

Go to the settings tab of your screen and adjust accordingly for your model to turn out perfectly. The settings allow you to adjust parameters such as the size, thickness, curve vectors per pixel, borders, etc. of your 3D model.

For the image settings, the important thing is to put the first parameter to positive image. The other settings can be left as default.

Ensure that you go back to the model and hit refresh for all the settings to be saved.

Once you are done, download the STL file. After downloading it, import it to the slicing software you are currently using, whether it’s Cura, Slic3r or KISSlicer.

Adjust your slicer settings and let it slice your file. Save the subsequent sliced file on your SD card or USB flash drive.

Plug it to your 3D printer and hit print. The result will be a nicely printed 3D lithophane model of the photo you chose.

Check out these video to get a step by step explanation of this process.

Use ItsLitho

Another popular software to use is ItsLitho which is a more modern, kept up to date, and has a lot more options.

You can even make colored lithophanes using a special method. Check out the video below by RCLifeOn for more details on how you can do this yourself.

print your photos in 3D! - qbed

3D printed lithophane from kraftly.com

Modern 3D printers allow you to create many original and unique things, and one of them is 3D photo-lithophanes, which are gaining more and more popularity as a customized gift for loved ones or just an original product for sale. Let's take a look at what linophane is and how to print it.

Article content:

What is lithophane?
Designing a lithophane
Selecting a photo
Converting a photo to a 3D model
Creating and printing a 3D model of a lithophane in Photoshop
How to slice a lithophane?
Seal of lithophane

What is lithophane?

Classic lithophane is a three-dimensional image on thin translucent porcelain that can only be seen when illuminated from behind by a bright light source (such as the sun or a light bulb). The image will appear in gray tones. Traditionally, lithophanes were created in several stages: first, the image was cut out of wax, then, on the basis of the wax model, a mold was created from plaster, into which porcelain was cast, after which the image was fired.

German lithophane of the 19th century, on the left - without illumination, on the right - with illumination. Photo — Diego Verger

The first lithophanes appeared almost simultaneously in several cities of Europe — France, Germany, Prussia and England — at the end of 1820s and their three-dimensionality was strikingly different from the two-dimensional engravings popular at that time and daguerreotypes . The fact is that the quality and quantity of light interacting with lithophane significantly changes the characteristics of the image itself - such dynamism arouses great interest in the viewer. For example, lithophane inserts in windows change their appearance throughout the day depending on the quality and intensity of the sun's rays.

Modern 3D printers allow you to print lithophane from any high contrast photo. How? Varying the thickness of different sections of the 3D model to render different shades of gray when the lithophane is backlit: thin sections let in more light and look brighter, while dense parts of the print let in little light and create dark details in the image. Don't panic, you don't have to manually calculate the thickness of various sections of the digital model - there are many programs that create 3D models for lithophanes automatically and for free! Let's get down to business!

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Designing the Litophane

First we need to create a digital model of the lithophane.

Choosing a photo

The first step to a great printout is choosing a suitable photo , because not all images will look good in the form of a lithophane.

• Firstly, the finished lithophane will be displayed in grayscale, so images where color plays an important role or where there is a lot of color detail will not work. You can try to convert the photo to b / w in Photoshop or any other program to make sure that you like the picture even if there are no colors.
  

• Secondly, it is better to give preference to contrasting photos - so the printed linofan will look more interesting (unlike the image, where adjacent details will merge due to lack of contrast). Again, you can add contrast to the selected photo in Photoshop or any other program.

An example of a low-contrast image, not quite suitable for lithophane printing. Photo — Christina Ryumina

• Thirdly, avoid photos consisting only of small details , it can be difficult for the printer to print them. For lithophanes, images with large contrasting details, such as portraits, are more suitable. Images with a single-color background without details are also good, for example, portraits against a backdrop or against a clear sky. You can clean up the background or create a color fill instead of an existing background in Photoshop or any other program.

Contrast photo on a plain background is ideal for printing lithophane. You can further clean up the background and add photo contrast in any post-processing program. Photo — Christina Ryumina

An example of a photo with many details is not the best choice for creating a lithophane. Photo — Christina Ryumina

Of course, you don't have to follow these tips. If you print on a high-quality printer with high resolution, then you can handle any details! For example, SLA printers allow you to print smaller details than their FDM counterparts (read more about 3D printing methods here), so a photo for printing on an SLA printer may contain small elements.

Convert photo to 3D model

0011

1. You can convert photo with free online Image to Litophane converter.
   

2. Models for lithophanes can be created in Photoshop CC by downloading a special Operation (Action) from the official website (read detailed instructions below), or in Blender: these programs have more options to edit the model. It is worth considering that a subscription to Photoshop CC is paid.
   

3. Cura software (version 13.11 and higher) from Ultimaker will also work. The program is easy to use and allows you to smooth the model, but it does not have the ability to edit the image and create a frame around it.
   

4. You can use the Customizable Lithopane from printer manufacturer MakerBot on Thingeverse. Here you can add a hole in the frame of the lithophane so you can hang your masterpiece, but in this application your photo resolution will be compressed to 100x100 pixels. Another disadvantage: the application can be quite slow, because the Thingeverse website Customizer creates a model and STL file instead of your computer.
   

5. There is also a free 2D to STL converter for Windows. There are options for smoothing the model, but no way to edit the image.
   

6. You can create a model for lithophane in a paid Photo to Stereolithographic file converter. This program allows you to create lithophanes on spheres, cubes and other shapes, but the interface here is not the most understandable.
   

7. There is a nice free Portuguese converter where the language can be changed to English after installation by going to the Iniciar menu, then Idioma and finally selecting English. Here is a link to download the program. In this converter, you can create a frame for the image, edit it before creating a 3D model, and also enlarge / reduce the image. The converter generates models quite quickly, so you can experiment with 3D model settings until you are completely satisfied with the result.

The list of programs, of course, is not exhaustive. You can use any converters of 2D files to 3D models that support export to STL. In this article, we will be using Photoshop CC to create a 3D model from a photo.

Create and print a 3D model of Lithophan in Photoshop

Attention! The operation only works if the interface language in your Photoshop CC is English. You can change the language by going to menu Photoshop CC → Preferences → Interface.

To add an action in Photoshop, go to the program, go to the top menu in Window → Actions or click the icon Play in the side menu (see screenshot below).

Going into the Actions panel in Photoshop

Opening the operations panel, click on the menu icon (see screenshot below) and select the command "Load Actions. .." . We go to the location where your downloaded Lithophane folder and the operation "Make Lithophane.atn" are located and select it. The operation is now available in your Photoshop.

Loading the operation "Make Lithophane.atn"

Operation "Make Lithophane.atn" is ready to go

Open the image you are about to print. You can convert it to black and white, add contrast and make any changes, then print the visible layers into one by pressing Ctrl + Shift + Alt + E (English), or simply merge the layers through the menu Layers (in any case , you will be prompted to merge layers when starting the operation). In the layers panel (marked in blue in the screenshot below), select the layer with the final version of your image and name it Background (or select the Background itself directly if you haven't changed anything). Then open the "Make Lithophane" operation folder, select "Make 100mm x 6.25mm Lithophane" (marked in red in the screenshot), press Play (marked in green in the screenshot). The operation automatically converts the 2D image into a 3D printable object: Photoshop converts the image to Grayscale, inverts the tones, creates a 3D depth map, as well as a frame and a flat surface on the back of the image.

Starting the operation of creating a digital model of lithophane

Litophane in Photoshop CC

To print a 3D object, click on the top menu 3D → 3D Print (marked in red in the screenshot below) or click on the print icon (marked in pink). Next, you will see the 3D printing settings panel (see screenshot below). Select a printer (or specify Printer: STL File if you want to export the model as STL), set Printer Units , Detail Level . Determine the size of the model by setting the X / Y / Z values. Option Scale to Print Volume will create the largest printout that will fit in your printer's camera.

Click on the icon marked in green in the screenshot below to have Photoshop prepare your model for printing. Photoshop will analyze the object and show you a print preview with supports in a new window (supports are turned on and off by ticking Scaffolding ). From the same window, we can print or export the model.

Preparing the model for printing/exporting

Model

Do not forget that the size and thickness of the lithophane, as well as the amount of detail in the photo and model, affect the printing time. Depending on these settings, it may take 30 minutes or 5 hours to print.

How to slice lithophane?

The slicer will help convert our model into a printer-friendly G-code (read more here). To open a 3D model in a slicer, you need to export it as a STL file. To do this, in the Photoshop 3D printing settings panel, select Printer: STL File , export the model as described above, and open it in your slicer to set up the location of the model on the platform and set other parameters. You can also export photos to STL from any of the other converters mentioned above and then open the file in a slicer.

To achieve optimal printing results, it is recommended to slice lithophanes as follows:

• Set straight infill to 100% at an angle of 30-35°. 100% infill will provide the best quality lithophane, as there will be no honeycomb inside the layers, which will spoil the tones in the printout.
  

• Set the minimum layer height that your printer supports. This way you will ensure high resolution details and the maximum number of shades of gray in your lithophane.
  

• Print as slowly as possible. Speaking of FDM, slow printing will help you avoid retraction problems, because most of the print is created with little extrusion, which can provoke a huge amount of retraction. To prevent your printer from smearing your printouts with unwanted material smudges and your extruder from clogging due to fast retractions, it is best to print as slowly as possible.
  

• Select the optimal lithophane slicing parameters available in your slicer. Different slicers provide different options. Choose the slicer you like, however, be aware that some slicers take longer to layer the model than others, for example, Cura usually slices faster than Slic3r. Experiment!
  

• Do not scale the model in the slicer. The model should be scaled in Photoshop or other mentioned converters so as not to lose resolution when printing.

Litophane Printing

Now it's to load our STL file into the printer via USB or SD card (or whatever methods are available on your printer). The faster the connection, the better, since lithophanes can contain a lot of detail, and some types of connection may not be fast enough to send the entire G-code to the printer, and the printer will begin to slow down and smear material on the printout.

Make sure your printer platform is in good condition to avoid warping your printout. Be sure to check the printer calibration and set the correct print temperature to match the melting temperature of the selected material.

It is best to use white material for printing, as colored materials will not give the same strong lithophane effect. Printing lithophane is best with ABS or HIPS, avoiding PLA : If you are going to put lithophane on a window, then PLA can melt in the sun.

Soft light is ideal for illuminating lithophane. Lithophanes make excellent lamps and even lanterns.

Lithophane lamp. Original photo here

Lantern-lithophane. Original photo here

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DIYK. May 11, 2018 10 Comments

REC Wiki » 3D printed lithophany: how to make translucent images

Lithophany is an artistic technique for creating translucent photographs or drawings, for example to decorate unique lamps. 3D printing technologies are great for artisanal production of such images, called lithophanes. We'll tell you how it's done.

Turning photographs or drawings into three-dimensional, embossed images with a 3D printer is already a great way to create souvenirs and mementos, but even more impressive results can be achieved with lithophany. Lithophanes are images on translucent materials that are clearly visible to the eye when illuminated from the back. Images are formed precisely due to relief: the thinner the material, the better light penetrates through it, and vice versa. In this article, we will see how you can turn existing 2D images, such as photographs, into 3D printed lithophanes.

Source images

It is advisable to follow two simple rules regarding source files. First, the higher the contrast, the better. Secondly, try to avoid photos with an abundance of background details, as they will most likely turn into indistinguishable noise and reduce the quality of the lithophane - make the main image less clear.

There are many programs for converting photographs into relief images suitable for 3D printing, but the principle is always the same: first, the program selects the main area and embosses, then adds a border, and then converts the image into a 3D model and exports the finished file in STL format. It remains to take the file, prepare a 3D model in a convenient slicer and print the lithophane. Interestingly, some slicers, such as Cura, have the necessary functionality themselves, so you can convert an image and prepare a 3D model for printing in one program. Below we consider three options for all occasions.

Method #1: Using a Slicer

This method has certain advantages and disadvantages. Cura is one of the most popular slicers, the process of creating 3D lithophane models in Cure is fast and simple, but on the other hand, there are some fine settings available in specialized programs and full-fledged 3D editors. This option can be considered optimal for novice users.

Of course, the first step is to download the original image to the computer.

Launch Cura, then import the image into the slicer by selecting Open File(s)… from the File menu. A pop-up window will appear with settings that determine how the image will look when 3D printed.

Next we work with the settings:

Height ( Height ) is actually the thickness of the lithophane, since the model will be created flat. The thickness can be different, this indicator depends primarily on the transparency of the plastic used for 3D printing. The optimal thickness will have to be selected empirically, but a thickness of no more than 5 mm can be used as a starting point.

Base (Base) is what the image will be printed on, that is, the back side of the lithophane. The thickness of the base will be added to the thickness of the image itself.

Width ( Width ) and depth (Depth) - model area parameters. Since the model is displayed flat, these two parameters actually determine the width and length.

Contrast Contrast ) : after setting the dimensions of the model, you need to decide on the contrast. Since the output will be a monochrome image, at this stage it is necessary to decide whether the litophane will be a negative or positive display of the original image. Everything is simple here: the thicker the sections (that is, the higher the relief), the darker they will be in the light. Accordingly, if you choose "Darker is higher" (Darker is higher), you will get a positive, and if vice versa, then the negative of the original photo.

Color model ( Color Model ) : There are two choices here - Linear and Translucent. In principle, both models work, but first try the translucent one: judging by the reviews, it gives the best results.

Smoothing (Smoothing) : The higher the smoothing, the smoother but less clear the image will be.

After choosing the settings, Cura converts the image into a 3D model, then you can simply "slice" the file and save the G-code. Don't rush to type until you've read the tips at the end of the article. For now, just save the STL file with the 3D model.

Method #2: Using 3D Modeling Software

Computer-aided design and graphic editors are also suitable for creating lithophanes: for example, some enthusiasts use Blender, but the most capable and convenient option is Photoshop. Modern versions of Photoshop have tools for converting 2D images to 3D, which is exactly what we need.

First, add the Make Lithophane plugin to Photoshop if you don't already have it.

Open the original image in Photoshop, then open the Window menu and select Actions (or just press Alt + F9). Select the appropriate action in the Make Lithophane folder and click Make.

Next, Photoshop will do a number of things, such as adding texture maps, after which you will see the finished bump image. Keep in mind that the relief, and therefore the sharpness, will depend on the contrast of the original image.

The finished 3D image must be exported in STL format. To do this, select 3D Print Settings from the 3D menu and the Properties window will open on the right.

In the 3D Print Settings tab, select Local, then change Printer to Export STL. Select millimeters and a fine level of detail, specify the required dimensions, and then click on the Start Print button to export the file.

Method #3: Using Special Programs

There are many programs designed specifically for converting images into 3D models and then STL files. The most popular are ItsLitho, Lithophane Maker and 3DP Rocks. They all work in much the same way, so let's look at the process using the last one as an example.

Go to the 3DP Rocks website.

Select the Images tab and fill in the original image.

When you return to the Model tab, you will see that the model is almost ready. At this stage, you can choose different forms.

Play around in the Settings menu with the settings for dimensions, maximum and minimum thickness, borders and curvature in the Settings menu until you get the desired result, and then click "Download" (Download) in the Model tab. You now have an STL file ready to be imported into your slicer.

Then you can start 3D printing, but before that you need to figure out how best to do it.

3D Resin Printing

Stereolithographic 3D printers are the easiest to use because these systems are renowned for their high resolution, making it easy to get crisp lithophane.

When working with photopolymer 3D printers, it is customary to print models at an angle to reduce the load on fragile layers, but for maximum quality we would recommend printing the model flat, even if it is more risky and takes longer. If the image is too large, you will have to print vertically: the quality will be slightly worse, but the model will not tear off, and after 3D printing it will be easier to separate it from the platform.

FDM 3D printing

The resolution of FDM 3D printers is lower than photoresin printers, but they can still produce very attractive products. Here it is the other way around: it is desirable to print the model not flat, but vertically - this will give a better result, since the resolution in Z in FDM 3D printing is higher than in X and Y. nozzle of the minimum available diameter - again for the sake of maximum detail. 3D printing thin models strictly vertically is a risky undertaking, so a raft or brim can be added to increase adhesion to the stage.

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