Diy lidar 3d scanner

BQ formed the foundations of the DIY 3D scanner kit, and remains one of the best DIY 3D scanner on tight budget options. Then back in 2015, CowTech Engineering used the foundations led by BQ, putting their unique spin on an updated model.

True to the open source movement, Cowtech started a Kickstarter campaign to raise money to put their version of the original, the CowTech Ciclop, into production. The team set the lofty goal to raise $10,000, and were met with surprise when the community rallies to raise $183,000. The CowTech Ciclop DIY 3D scanner kit was born.

So what are the differences between CowTech’s version and BQ’s DIY 3D scanner?

The CowTech Ciclop still uses the Horus 3D software program as it does a fantastic shop for 3D scanning objects. Differences however include a slightly different design, which the team spent days designing so that the parts could be 3D printed on any FDM 3D printer. Some desktop 3D printers only have a small build volume, so CowTech designed parts that can be printed on any printer with a build volume of 115 x 110 x 65 mm, which almost all 3D printers have.

Additionally, CowTech’s Ciclop has adjustable laser holders, and whereas the BQ Ciclop uses threaded rods, CowTech’s DIY 3D scanner uses laser-cut acrylic. This isn’t anything drastic and the scanners still look fairly similar, but CowTech only intended to improve the existing design, not reform it. CowTech sell the Ciclop, ready-to-scan, for $159 on their website. Overall, this is a great cheap DIY 3D scanner, and very effective for laser triangulation 3D scanning.

OpenScan Classic and OpenScan Mini

• Max Scan Volume: 180 x 180 x 180 mm / 80 x 80 x 80 mm
• Accuracy: Up to 50 microns
• DIY 3D scanner technology: Photogrammetry
• Price: Starting at $100.00 up to $200.00 for a complete kit with 3D printed parts and electronic

The Mini and Classic are two low-cost but high-quality 3D printed DIY scanner projects designed by German company OpenScan. In action, the OpenScan uses a stepper motor mounted to a 3D printed frame to rotate an object to capture images from various angles. These are then compiled into a high-quality 3D model using open-source software or OpenScanCloud, ready for 3D printing.

Where the OpenScan Classic and Mini differ from one another is max scan volume and camera/SBC options. The Mini features an 80 x 80 x 80 mm scan volume, while the Classic more than doubles the scan volume to a roomy 180 x 180 x 180 mm, perfect for scanning larger objects. The Openscan Mini – the cheaper and smaller 3D printable 3D scanner.

The OpenScan Mini is tied to a Raspberry Pi and only works with either a Pi Camera or Arducam IMX 519 and includes one-click easy scanning. This allows the completed scanner to rotate not just the object but also the camera for a more detailed point cloud. 

On the other hand, the OpenScan Classic is also compatible with Smartphones and DSLR cameras, which generally means better quality photos and, as a result, higher-quality models. It’s the tinkerer’s option and better suited for those that want to customize the scanner to their needs.

OpenScan offers a solution for all DIY skill levels and budgets, whichever model you decide on. You can customize kits based on your needs or order a complete kit that includes all the electronics and 3D printed parts.

The full assembly guide is here.

AAScan Open Source 3D Scanner Based on Arduino and Android

AAScan is a very recent (February 2020) DIY open source 3D scanner that’s fully automated in taking photos and moving the object around on the scan plate. All the files are on Thingiverse, which we’ve linked below. Interestingly, the creator stresses that the AAScan is intended to be a purposefully minimalist machine, able to scan but not filled with extra features beyond this primary capacity.

All the instructions for how to build, print and assemble the AAScan are on the Thingiverse page, requiring an Arduino, some electronics, and either a 3D printer to print the plastic parts or someone else to print them for you — such as from a 3D printing service.

You can view the DIY scanner on Thingiverse here.

FabScan Pi

• DIY 3D scanner technology: laser triangulation
• Price: $100-200 depending on which version

The original FabScan was a DIY 3D scanner built by Francis Engelmann as part of his Bachelor’s thesis back in 2010. Since then, there have been numerous improvements made in new iterations up to the newest model, the FabScan Pi. This new model uses a Raspberry Pi camera along with the new design to offer higher quality 3D scans.

Based on laser triangulation technology, the FabScan Pi is one of the best DIY 3D scanner options for those who are into doing it themselves. Depending on if you go for one of the older models or the latest, the price can vary between $100 and around $200 to completely create the 3D scanner. Overall, it’s a really cool kit and thesis which you can make at home.

If you want to create your own FabScan, you can follow the assembly guide here.

DIY Standalone 3D Scanner by Jun Takeda

• DIY 3D scanner technology: Photogrammetry
• Price: $200.00

The DIY Standalone 3D Scanner is an excellent option for those that want a hands-on project that results in a reasonably accurate and easy-to-use stationary 3D scanner. 

By combining a Mbed board with a camera and OpenCV libraries, the scanning process is largely automated with just a single button push. The scanner captures multiple images of an object to create a 3D model that’s then output as an STL file written to an SD Card.

To complete the project, you’ll need a GR-LYCHEE as a centerpiece sided by smaller electronic parts, plastic sheets to create the housing, and various nuts and wiring to piece it all together. 

As the name implies, it’s very much a DIY project and, as such, would best suit those happy to troubleshoot any potential hurdles with little hand-holding. Though there are instructions, you’re responsible for designing the housing, wiring the board, and calibrating the camera.

Arduino-Controlled Photogrammetry 3D Scanner by Brian Brocken

• DIY 3D scanner technology: Photogrammetry
• Price: ~$100

The Arduino-Controlled Photogrammetry 3D Scanner is a 3D printable 3D scanner DIY project that leverages the camera on any run-of-the-mill Smartphone and a cheap Arduino UNO SBC to keep costs low.

The core idea is to assemble a turntable consisting of 3D printed mechanical parts, including a print-in-place bearing. A Bluetooth-connected Smartphone does the actual scanning via the normal photogrammetry process. As for electronic components, you’ll need a servo motor, LCD screen, Arduino Uno, PCB, stepper motor, Bluetooth remote, regulator, and a small joystick module.

Once assembled, the Arduino-Controlled Photogrammetry 3D Scanner can capture anywhere from 2 to 200 photos in a single 360° rotation for reasonably detailed scans. The images are then sent to photogrammetry software such as AutoDesk Recap Photo to assemble a 3D model.

Aside from the cost of filament, expect to pay no more than $100 for all the parts and the STL files to 3D print the turntable.

Semi-assembled DIY scanners

Revopoint POP / POP 2

• Price: $500-700 — Available at Revopoint store here
• Accuracy: 0.3 mm
• Max Scan Volume: 200 x 300 x 300 mm
• Scan Speed: Up to 8 FPS
• DIY 3D scanner technology: Structured light

Though not technically a DIY scanner, we thought we’d slide in the Revopoint POP as a cheat option for those that want to save time and want largely better quality scans than you’d get with a homemade alternative.

It comes semi-assembled – you just need to attach the tripod, connect the USB and the turntable, add the sticker markers for better scan tracking, and optionally build and attach the larger turntable – so you can get started in just 5 minutes!

The catch? At around $500, the Revopoint POP is considerably pricier than a DIY scanner. Still, it may be worth paying the premium for the convenience and reliability.

The Revopoint POP offers 0.3 mm accuracy (the POP 2 offers within 0.1 mm!) and automatic alignment technology, making for more detailed and smooth full-color 3D models than DIY scanners. It can capture 360° scans of objects up to 200 x 300 x 300 mm, besting most DIY options.

The main benefit of all this is high accuracy scans that are just about ready for 3D printing with very little post-processing needed to iron out imperfections and poor surface details.

Ease of use also extends to the intuitive software, which works with Smartphones for on-the-go scanning and features exports to STL and OBJ formats. Alongside, it bundles in best-of both-worlds handheld and stationary modes. Five different scanning profiles allow you to tune the POP to each scan with face, body, feature, mark, and dark mode.

Read more: we tested and reviewed the Revopoint POP 2

Best 3D Scanner Under $1000

Revopoint POP 2 3D High-Precision Scanner with 0.05mm Accuracy

$719.00

You'll see just how accurate this scanner is when you try it (I've tested it to confirm a 0.07mm accuracy in my hands-on review) - there's nothing better for under $1000.

Revopoint hereAmazon here

We earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.

Can You Make a 3D Scanner?

1. Choose a DIY 3D scanner design.
2. Source the non-3D printable parts such as the camera, stepper motor, single board computer (such as an Arduino), wiring, and other electronic parts.
3. 3D print the housing, brackets, turntable, mounts, and other parts required for the 3D scanner project.
4. Wire and assemble all the parts.
5. Configure and set up the single board computer.
6. Test and scan.

FAQs

Which is the Best DIY 3D Scanner?

This depends on how much DIY you want to take on yourself, and how much you are ready to spend.

One of the most cost-effective options is scanners based on the Ciclop open-source 3D scanner design. You can purchase a low-cost Ciclop scanner like the BQ Ciclop or CowTech Ciclop 3D scanner, then 3D print the parts from home and modify and tune the scanner to your liking.

Alternatively, the Revopoint POP is an excellent semi-assembled 3D scanner with great specifications and software at an affordable price for those that want to save time.

What is a DIY 3D Scanner?

A DIY 3D scanner is a cost-effective, home-made device constructed from manufactured or 3D printed parts designed to capture the characteristics of a specific object – such as size, surface details, and shape – by scanning it from multiple angles to create an equivalent point cloud that can be processed into a 3D model via software.

Other articles you may be interested in:

• The best 3D scanners
• The best low-cost 3D scanners
• Top 3D scanner apps for iOS and Android
• The best photogrammetry software
• Structured light 3D scanning vs laser scanning
• 3D body scanners: a guide
• Industrial 3D scanners

how to assemble a 3D scanner from scrap materials and digitize reality — T&P

The first 3D printers that cost less than a gaming computer have become a mandatory attribute of almost any hackspace or fablab (laboratory of technical creativity and electronic art). Now 3D scanners have joined them. MIPT student and employee of the Polytechnic Museum Daniil Velovaty himself assembled a three-dimensional scanner from a laser, a webcam, and scrap materials. As part of the special project Phystech. Reader" he told T&P about the future of reality scanning. nine0003

Daniil Velovaty

It was easy to get used to 3D printers: I drew the desired detail or figure on the computer, loaded it into the printer, and a few hours later I took its embodiment in plastic. Yes, what about plastic, they are already printing in metal, and even in organic matter: they recently printed a living liver. No wonder you want to go further. The next step is scanning. Oddly enough, but before the advent of 3D printers, there was no great need to transfer a real object to the digital world: the creators of games and films simply hired artists who drew whatever was needed. The need for scanners arose only when it was important to convey the relief and shape of an object with very high accuracy. At the same time, neither the duration of the scan nor the cost were often completely unimportant. This is how the first representatives of 3D scanners appeared: lidars. nine0007

Lidar (from English Light Detection and Ranging) is an expensive but very accurate device. It allows you to build 3D models of objects with an accuracy of millimeters, the size of which can be compared with the size of a building. From the decoding of the abbreviation LIDAR, it follows that it is any rangefinder that measures distance using light. An incredible number of devices fall under this description. But most often, devices like this are called lidars:

A special system of mirrors is placed inside the device. A phase laser rangefinder is installed here, which measures the distance using a laser, and two mirrors serve to deflect the laser beam in two planes. Thus, the ray runs through a certain sector of space and builds its 3D model. As you might guess, the speed of such a scanner depends on the speed of the rangefinder and the speed of rotation of the mirrors. And since all this is quite complex equipment that requires fine tuning, it costs quite a lot of money. It is much more profitable to order a scan than to buy the machine itself. Moreover, you still need to figure out how to use it. nine0007

As industrial devices were, to put it mildly, beyond the reach of the average consumer, and the need to scan reality grew, cheap desktop and handheld 3D scanners appeared. The former, as a rule, have a turntable on which the object under study is placed. A few minutes after the start of the scan, we will get the finished model. Of course, the scan quality and the size of the scanned area are incomparable with lidars, but they cost several orders of magnitude cheaper. It is to this class of devices that the scanner we developed belongs. The main problem with these scanners is that the object to be scanned must fit on a turntable, which greatly limits the scope. Another significant disadvantage of these scanners is the incompleteness of scanning and blind spots. If, for example, you try to scan a vase, the scanner will only see its outer part, and not the cavity inside. nine0007

The second type of scanners are handheld 3D scanners. They need to be moved around the object by hand, but they build a model with the help of cameras. The operation algorithm of such scanners is much more complicated, they are more expensive, and the quality of the result is worse, but they allow you to scan large objects and spend less time on it. They look something like this:

One of the main advantages of such a scanner is that it is not limited by the scanning area. We can scan, for example, a person's face without having to place their head on a turntable. With a certain diligence, even an entire room can be scanned, if only the positioning accuracy allows it. To improve accuracy, you can stick special marks that the scanner finds and uses as reference points. Actually, in the photo above, this is what was done. This approach limits the scanning area, but, unfortunately, here either the sheep are safe or the wolves are full. nine0007

In our lab, we decided to create a cheap 3D scanner with an accuracy comparable to that of 3D printing. This was our first serious project, so we made mistakes, misunderstood a lot, and learned even more along the way. We first built a simple laser rangefinder using a laser pointer and a webcam. To understand how a 2D camera can measure distance, you have to use your imagination. Imagine a thread stretched in the air, along which a spider is crawling. If we stand close to the rope, we see how the spider is crawling straight towards us (not a very pleasant sight). And if now we shine a lamp on this whole structure from the side, we will see a shadow on the floor. Since the light comes from the side, the projection of the spider will move along the projection of the thread. By measuring the distance from the beginning of the thread's shadow to the spider's shadow, we can calculate how far the spider has crawled by multiplying by some factor, because we are creating a contraction mapping. nine0007

Our scanner works in approximately the same way. Only instead of a thread - a laser beam, and instead of a screen with a shadow - a camera. Just as a spider moves along a thread, a spot moves along the laser beam, which occurs when this beam encounters an obstacle. Having found the position of the spot in the photograph, we can determine the distance to the object on which this spot is located. In words, it is difficult. It looks simpler in the picture:

The farther the wall, the closer to the dotted line will be the pfc point on the camera matrix

But such a rangefinder measures the distance to a single point, and this takes a very long time. Therefore, we put a lens on the laser, which turns the laser spot into a laser line. Now we measure the distance to hundreds of points at once (after all, a line can be represented as a set of points), it remains to build a system that allows this line to go through the entire object, and for this we need a turntable on which the object is placed.

The scanner itself is assembled from plywood pieces that have been laser cut. To rotate the table, a stepper motor is used, which is controlled by a board developed by us. It also controls the brightness of the laser and backlight. nine0007

The image from the camera is processed on a computer; a Java program was written for this. After scanning is completed, the program generates a so-called point cloud, which, using another program, are combined into a full-fledged model. This model can already be printed on a 3D printer, that is, a copy of a real object can be obtained.

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3D laser scanner on Android phone / Habr

I present to your attention a DIY scanner based on an Android smartphone.

When designing and creating a scanner, first of all, we were interested in scanning large objects. At least - a full-length figure of a person with an accuracy of at least 1-2 mm.

These criteria have been successfully met. Objects are successfully scanned in natural light (without direct sunlight). The scanning field is determined by the capture angle of the smartphone camera and the distance at which the laser beam remains bright enough for detection (during the day indoors). This is a full-length human figure (1.8 meters) with a grip width of 1.2 meters. nine0007

The scanner was made for reasons of "whether to do something more or less useful and interesting when there is nothing to do." All illustrations are based on the example of a “test” object (it is not correct to post scans of people).

As experience has shown, for a scanner of this type, software is secondary and the least time was spent on it (on the final version. Not counting experiments and dead ends). Therefore, in the article I will not touch on the features of the software (Link to source codes at the end of the article.)

The purpose of this article is to talk about the dead ends and issues collected along the way to creating the final working version.

For the scanner in the final version is used:

1. Samsung S5 phone
2. 30mW red and green lasers with line lens (90 degree line) with glass optics (not the cheapest).
3. Stepper motors 35BYGHM302-06LA 0.3A, 0.9°
4. Stepper motor drivers A4988
nine0051 Bluetooth module HC-05
5. STM32F103C8t board

The A4988 drivers are set to half step, which with a 15->120 reducer gives 400*2*8 steps per PI.

Select the scanning technology.

The following different options were considered.

LED Projector.

The option was considered and calculated. Even expensive projectors do not have the required resolution to achieve the required accuracy. And it makes no sense to even talk about cheap ones. nine0007

Mechanical sweep of the laser beam in combination with a diffraction grating.

The idea was tested and found to be suitable. But not for DIY performance, for reasons:

1. A sufficiently powerful laser is needed so that after diffraction the marks are bright enough (the distance to the smartphone lens is 1..2 meters). And the eyes are pitiful. A laser point already with 30mW is not useful.
2. 2D mechanical reamer accuracy requirements too high for DIY. nine0054

Standard mechanical scanning of the laser line on a stationary scanned object.

In the end, a variant with two lasers of different colors was chosen.

The location of the lasers on different sides of the camera allows you to get two scans in one pass.