Build volume 3d printer

Does 3D Print Build Volume Really Matter? « Fabbaloo

The typical build volume on a 3D printer, a block shape [Source: Fabbaloo]

One of the first question I always hear from 3D printing newbies is “How Big Can I Print?” But that isn’t really a good question.

To be clear, the build volume on a given 3D printer can be a useful specification to examine, but it isn’t quite what you might think it to be. While you might think that specification determines the maximum possible print size, that’s not quite true.

3D Printer Build Volumes

The build volume is essentially the dimensions of the space into which 3D prints can be produced by a specific machine model. Typically they are stated in Cartesian form, with values for each of the X, Y and Z axes. That’s because many 3D printers use a Cartesian-style motion system in which there are literally three axes of motion and the numbers correspond to the maximum reach of each axis.

Build volumes can be specified differently, however. For delta-style machines the build volume is usually specified as a cylindrical, not cubic, space. There’s a diameter and a height, and this again correlates with the reach of the delta motion system.

Usually.

3D Printer Build Volume Quirks

Sometimes these build volume specifications are not quite right. For example, in multiple-extruder devices, the build volume can change.

How so? It’s because many dual extruder setups involve mounting a pair of hot ends on the X axis. As the system operates, these two hot ends move back and forth synchronously on the X-axis because they are literally bolted together.

But if you think about it, the left extruder cannot “reach” all the way to the right side because the right extruder is in the way! Similarly, the right extruder can’t get to the left side because the left extruder is in the way.

Because of this the build volume shrinks on the X-axis slightly. Most often you’ll see two different specifications, with one larger than the other. The smaller build volume occurs when the second hot end is involved in the job.

There’s also the issue of the extreme ends of the build volume being practically inaccessible. Sometimes the actual reach will be short by a few millimeters, but few 3D print at that position, so no one notices. Myself, I always try to leave at least a few millimeters between the print and the “edge” because I’m never sure if the edge is actually there.

A cylindrical build volume [Source: Fabbaloo]

Delta 3D printers also have similar weirdness. Sometimes you will see the specification as X diameter and Y height, suggesting a cylinder of that size. However, you cannot usually 3D print within that space because of quirks in the motion system.

With a delta motion system there is a highest point that the hot end can reach when all three arms hold the hot end at the highest point in the center. But when that happens, there is no slack left in the arms to move to the sides. You are really able to reach that maximum height only when in the center of the cylinder.

Thus you cannot usually 3D print near the top edges of the build volume’s virtual cylinder. Regardless of that, the system makers specify the “maximum height” as a number that is legally true, but not functionally true.

Maximum height on a cylindrical build is not all the way across [Source: Fabbaloo]

The actual build volume for a delta machine is shaped more like a cylinder with a cone on top. Fortunately, most 3D print jobs involve short objects or ones that don’t venture into that territory, so no one notices.

Making 3D Print Build Volume Bigger

A 195mm-long block flat in a 3D printer build volume [Source: Fabbaloo]

If you were given a build volume of say, 200 x 200 x 200 mm, and asked how big an object you could 3D print, the answer is also a bit tricky.

You could say the maximum size could be 200mm. Or perhaps 195mm by allowing a bit of margin. But that’s not the right answer. You could do this:

A 240mm-long block diagonal in a 3D printer build volume [Source: Fabbaloo]

You could orient your object along the diagonal, and this allowed me to make the block 240mm long. This provides a slight extra boost to the maximum length, and you can exceed the stated dimension.

But wait, there’s more! You could do this:

A 260mm-long block angled in a 3D printer build volume [Source: Fabbaloo]

I was able to make the block 260mm long, and it still fits on a “200mm” 3D printer.

This is likely the maximal method for achieving the biggest possible 3D print within a fixed build volume. However, it isn’t recommended as you may have adhesion problems, and waste a ton of support material. That’s to say nothing of the work required to remove all that support material.

But sometimes you do need to exceed even this length, and there’s a very simple way to do that: break your 3D model into smaller parts. Print them and assemble them later. One of the best ways to perform the split is to include holes and pins in the connecting surfaces to ensure alignment. Also, if you are breaking into a larger number of parts you might want to incorporate a numbering system so you can keep track of which part is which.

Finally, the introduction of belt 3D printers changes the build volume game completely. These devices can literally 3D print infinite distances on one axis, so long as you keep supplying material to the machine.

A massive 6m 3D print emerging on a conveyor system [Source: NAK 3D Designs]

That, and holding up the endless 3D print, as was done in this experiment where a 6m 3D print was achieved on the White Knight device.

Back to the original question, “How Big Can You Print?” The answer, as you now know, is this:

It Depends.

What is Build Volume for 3D Printing? – Beginner3Dprinting

The build volume for any specific 3D printer is the actual maximum size of an object that the 3D Printer is capable of printing and is generally defined by cartesian co-ordinate system of X, Y and Z dimensions in millimeters. Occasionally, you will see larger build volume printers referred to as ‘large format printers’.

Are Build Volumes The Same For FDM and SLA printers?

Build volume for Resin Printers is generally substantially less than for FFF/FDM. So if you need to print large format prints then SLA printers are probably not the right choice for you.

We talk more about this in main topic post: Beginner Essentials – How to Choose a 3D printer here and other subtopics linked from that post so please feel free to check it out.

Understanding what range of 3D print models you want to print is absolutely key to deciding what build volume you may require.

Probably the most common build volume for a current FDM printer such as an Ender 3 Pro is 250x220x220

Another industry standard printer such as the Prusa i3 Mk3S has a very slightly smaller build volume of 250x210x210

These build volumes are very typical of what most hobbyist level 3D FDM printers are capable of.

If you need to print out smaller, more detailed models for say Jewelry Making, or printing miniature desktop figures then I highly recommend going for an SLA resin style printer – such as the Prusa SL1S. Build volume on the Prusa is 127×80×150mm which is fairly typical for a resin SLA printer build volume.

Resin printing in general is slightly more expensive than FDM printing but that is offset by the better quality of prints that you can achieve – so it is well worth understanding what you will be printing when deciding on what build volume you require.

What Is The Biggest Build Volume available?

Without going to very high end Industrial 3D Printers costing 100’s of thousands of dollars – one of the biggest format and mostly practical 3D FDM printer companies that I could find is a company called Modix.

Modix produce some very nice large format 3D printers from their Model Big 60 – that prints out at a build volume of Print volume: 600 X 600 X 660 mm (XYZ), TO their Model Big 180 – that prints out a build volume of Print volume of 1,800 x 600 x 600 mm.

Even though these printers are probably out of reach of most 3D printer enthusiasts – there are competitively priced compared to many industrial printers that can hit 100 to 200k USD.

The Modix range costs between 4k USD for the smaller models to 12700 USD for the Model Big 180.

The Biggest Commercially Available Build Volume Award Goes To?

The very biggest build volume we believe that you can actually buy (ie buy now) is the 3D Crane Wasp printer from 3DWasp.com

Image Courtesy of 3DWasp.com

Depending on what configuration you buy you can print build volumes of approx 50 Square meters to 100 Square meters with the following printer settings:

Printing volume: Ø6300mm x h4000 mm
Minimum layer height: 9 mm
Maximum printing speed: 300 mm/s
Maximum travel speed: 500 mm/s
Acceleration: 20 mm/s2
Nozzle diameter: from 18 to 30 mm

3D Crane Wasp can print in the following materials:

Earth based materials
Concrete mortar
Geopolymers

Wasp originally started as a pottery style delta printer and has branched out into the construction business. Definitely a company worth keeping an eye on?

Maybe not in every beginners price range – but it does give a good indication of what build volumes you can achieve with some innovative thinking to take things to a new level. 3D Crane Wasp packages start at around 155k USD.

Final Thoughts

The Build Volume can vary wildly depending on what printer type you have. Deciding what is the best build volume really depends on the quality of the printed models that you require.

If money is no object – then there are several options out there for printing in both FDM plastic with machines like the Modix or even building a property with a 3D Wasp Crane Printer.

I suspect there will be many more innovative 3D printer companies appearing for the construction industry in the short to medium term – this is a real area where 3D printing technology can explode, reduce construction costs by 80% plus and at the same time decrease build times considerably.

I hope you have enjoyed reading this blog post on Build Volume. Please do fee free to leave a comment below.

Many thanks!

Building a home 3D printer with your own hands: recommendations from personal experience

3D printing and assembly of 3D printers is my hobby and passion. Here I will not share detailed diagrams and drawings, there are more than enough of them on specialized resources. The main goal of this material is to tell you where to start, where to dig and how to avoid mistakes in the process of assembling a home 3D printer. Perhaps one of the readers will be inspired by applied engineering achievements.

Why do you need a 3D printer? Use cases

I first came across the idea of 3D printing back in the 90s when I was watching the Star Trek series. I remember how impressed I was by the moment when the heroes of the cult series printed the things they needed during their journey right on board their starship. They printed anything: from shoes to tools. I thought it would be great someday to have such a thing too. Then it all seemed something incredible. Outside the window are the gloomy 90s, and the Nokia with a monochrome screen was the pinnacle of progress, accessible only to a select few.

Years passed, everything changed. Around 2010, the first working models of 3D printers began to appear on sale. Yesterday's fantasy has become a reality. However, the cost of such solutions, to put it mildly, discouraged. But the IT industry would not be itself without an inquisitive community, where there is an active exchange of knowledge and experience and who just let them dig into the brains and giblets of new hardware and software. So, drawings and diagrams of printers began to surface more and more often on the Web. Today, the most informative and voluminous resource on the topic of assembling 3D printers is RepRap - this is a huge knowledge base that contains detailed guides for creating a wide variety of models of these machines.

I assembled the first printer about five years ago. My personal motivation to build my own device is quite prosaic and based on several factors. Firstly, there was an opportunity to try to realize the old dream of having your own device, inspired by a fantasy series. The second factor is that sometimes it was necessary to repair some household items (for example, a baby stroller, car elements, household appliances and other small things), but the necessary parts could not be found. Well, the third aspect of the application is "near-working". On the printer, I make cases for various IoT devices that I assemble at home.

Agree, it is better to place your device based on Raspberry Pi or Arduino in an aesthetically pleasing "body", which is not a shame to put in an apartment or take to the office, than to organize components, for example, in a plastic bowl for food. And yes, you can print parts to build other printers :)

There are a lot of scenarios for using 3D printers. I think everyone can find something of their own.

A complex part in terms of drawing that I printed on my printer. Yes, it's just a figurine, but it has many small elements

Ready solution vs custom assembly

When a technology has been tested, its value in the market decreases markedly. The same thing happened in the world of 3D printers. If earlier a ready-made solution cost simply sky-high money, then today acquiring such a machine is more humane for the wallet, but nevertheless not the most affordable for an enthusiast. There are a number of solutions already assembled and ready for home use on the market, their price range ranges from $500-700 (not the best options) to infinity (adequate solutions start from a price tag of about $1000). Yes, there are options for $150, but we, for understandable, I hope, reasons, will not dwell on them.

In short, there are three cases to consider a finished assembly:

when you plan to print not much and rarely;
when print accuracy is critical;
you need to print molds for mass production of parts.

There are several obvious advantages to self-assembly. The first and most important is cost. Buying all the necessary components will cost you a maximum of a couple of hundred dollars. In return, you will receive a complete 3D printing solution with the quality of manufactured products acceptable for domestic needs. The second advantage is that by assembling the printer yourself, you will understand the principles of its design and operation. Believe me, this knowledge will be useful to you during the operation of even an expensive ready-made solution - any 3D printer needs to be serviced regularly, and it can be difficult to do this without understanding the basics.

The main disadvantage of assembly is the need for a large amount of time. I spent about 150 hours on my first build.

What you need to assemble the printer yourself

The most important thing here is the presence of desire. As for any special skills, then, by and large, in order to assemble your first printer, the ability to solder or write code is not critical. Of course, understanding the basics of radio electronics and basic skills in the field of mechanics (that is, "straight hands") will greatly simplify the task and reduce the amount of time that needs to be spent on assembly.

Also, to start we need a mandatory set of parts:

Extruder is the element that is directly responsible for printing, the print head. There are many options on the market, but for a budget build, I recommend the MK8. Of the minuses: it will not be possible to print with plastics that require high temperatures, there is noticeable overheating during intensive work, which can damage the element. If the budget allows, then you can look at MK10 - all the minuses are taken into account there.
Processor board. The familiar Arduino Mega is well suited. I didn't notice any downsides to this solution, but you can spend a couple of dollars more and get something more powerful, with a reserve for the future.
Control board. I'm using RAMPS 1.4 which works great with the Arduino Mega. A more expensive but more reliable board is Shield, which already combines a processor board and a control board. In modern realities, I recommend paying attention to it. In addition to it, you need to purchase at least 5 microstep stepper motor controllers, for example - A4988. And it's better to have a couple of these in stock for replacement.
Heated table. This is the part where the printed element will be located. Heating is necessary due to the fact that most plastics will not adhere to a cold surface. For example, for printing with PLA plastic, the required surface temperature of the table is 60-80°C, for ABS - 110-130°C, and for polycarbonate it will be even higher
There are also two options for choosing a table - cheaper and more expensive. Cheaper options are essentially printed circuit boards with preheated wiring. To operate on this type of table, you will need to put borosilicate glass, which will scratch and crack during operation. Therefore, the best solution is an aluminum table.
Stepper motors. Most models, including the i2 and i3, use NEMA 17 size motors, two for the Z axis and one each for the X and Y axes. Finished extruders usually come with their own stepper motor. It is better to take powerful motors with a current in the motor winding of 1A or more, so that there is enough power to lift the extruder and print without skipping steps at high speed.
Basic set of plastic fasteners.
Belt and gears to drive it.

Examples of elements appearance: 1) MK8 extruder; 2) Arduino processor board; 3) RAMPS control board; 4) motor controllers; 5) aluminum heated table; 6) NEMA 17 stepper motor; 7) a set of plastic fasteners; 8) drive gears; 9) drive belt

This is a list of items to be purchased. Hardcore users can assemble some of them themselves, but for beginners, I strongly recommend purchasing ready-made solutions.

Yes, you will also need various small things (studs, bearings, nuts, bolts, washers ...) to assemble the case. In practice, it turned out that using a standard m8 stud leads to low printing accuracy on the Z axis. I would recommend immediately replacing it with a trapezoid of the same size.

M8 trapezoid stud for Z axis, which will save you a lot of time and nerves. Available for order on all major online platforms

You also need to purchase customized plastic parts for the X axis, such as these from the MendelMax retrofit kit.

Most parts available at your local hardware store. On RepRap you can find a complete list of necessary little things with all sizes and patterns. The kit you need will depend on the choice of platform (we'll talk about platforms later).

What's the price

Before delving into some aspects of the assembly, let's figure out how much such entertainment will cost for your wallet. Below is a list of parts required for purchase with an average price.

Platform selection

The community has already developed a number of different platforms for assembling printers - the most optimal case designs and the location of the main elements, so you do not have to reinvent the wheel.

i2 and i3 are key platforms for self-assembly printer enclosures. There are also many modifications of them with various improvements, but for beginners, these two classic platforms should be considered, since they do not require special skills and fine-tuning.

Actually, illustration of platforms: 1) i2 platform; 2) i3 platform

On the plus side of i2: it has a more reliable and stable design, although it is a little more difficult to assemble; more opportunities for further customization.

The i3 variant requires more special plastic parts to be purchased separately and has a slow print speed. However, it is easier to assemble and maintain, and has a more aesthetically pleasing appearance. You will have to pay for simplicity with the quality of printed parts - the body has less stability than i2, which can affect print accuracy.

Personally, I started my experiments in assembling printers from the i2 platform. She will be discussed further.

Assembly steps, challenges and improvements

In this block, I will only touch on the key assembly steps using the i2 platform as an example. Full step by step instructions can be found here.

The general scheme of all the main components looks something like this. There is nothing particularly complicated here:

I also recommend adding a display to your design. Yes, you can easily do without this element when performing operations on a PC, but it will be much more convenient to work with the printer this way.

Understanding how all components will be connected, let's move on to the mechanical part, where we have two main elements - a frame and a coordinate machine.

Assembling the frame

Detailed frame assembly instructions are available on RepRap. Of the important nuances - you will need a set of plastic parts (I already talked about this above, but I'd better repeat it), which you can either purchase separately or ask your comrades who already have a 3D printer to print.

The frame of the i2 is quite stable thanks to its trapezoid shape.

This is how the frame looks like with parts already partially installed. For greater rigidity, I reinforced the structure with plywood sheets

Coordinate machine

An extruder is attached to this part. The stepper motors shown in the diagram above are responsible for its movement. After installation, calibration is required along all major axes.

Important - you will need to purchase (or make your own) a carriage for moving the extruder and a mount for the drive belt. Drive belt I recommend GT2.

The carriage printed by the printer from the previous picture after it has been assembled. The part already has LM8UU bearings for guides and belt mount (top)

Calibration and adjustment

So, we completed the assembly process (as I said, it took me 150 hours) - the frame was assembled, the machine was installed. Now another important step is the calibration of this very machine and extruder. Here, too, there are small subtleties.

Setting up the machine

I recommend calibrating the machine with an electronic caliper. Do not be stingy with its purchase - you will save a lot of time and nerves in the process.

The screenshot below shows the correct constants for the Marlin firmware, which must be selected in order to set the correct number of steps per unit of measure. We calculate the coefficient, multiply it, substitute it into the firmware, and then upload it to the board.

Marlin 9 firmware constants0022

For high-quality calibration, I recommend relying on larger numbers in measurements - take not 1-1.5 cm, but about 10. So the error will be more noticeable, and it will become easier to correct it.

Calibrating the extruder

When the frame is assembled, the machine is calibrated, we start setting up the extruder. Here, too, everything is not so simple. The main task of this operation is to correctly adjust the supply of plastic.

If underfeeding, the printed test item will have noticeable gaps, like test die 1. Conversely, the result will look bloated if plastic is overfed (dice 2)

Getting Started Printing

It remains for us to run some CAD or download ready-made .stl, which describe the structure of the printed material. Next, this structure needs to be converted into a set of commands understandable to our printer. For this I use the Slicer program. It also needs to be set up correctly - specify the temperature, the size of the extruder nozzle. After that, the data can be sent to the printer.

Slicer interface

As a raw material for printing, I recommend starting with regular ABS plastic - it is quite strong, products made from it are durable, and it does not require high temperatures to work with. For comfortable printing with ABS plastic, the table must be heated to a temperature of 110-130 ° C, and the extruder nozzle - within 230-260 ° C.

Some important details. Before printing, calibrate the machine along the Z axis. The extruder nozzle should be approximately half a millimeter from the table and ride along it without distortion. For this calibration, a regular sheet of A4 paper inserted between the nozzle and the surface of the heated table is best suited. If the sheet can be moved with little effort, the calibration is correct.

Another thing to keep in mind is the surface treatment of the heated table. Usually, before printing, the surface of the table is covered with something that hot plastic sticks to well. For ABS plastic, this can be, for example, Kapton tape. The disadvantage of adhesive tape is the need to re-glue it after several printing cycles. In addition, you will have to literally tear off the adhering part from it. All this, believe me, takes a lot of time. Therefore, if it is possible to avoid this fuss, it is better to avoid it.

An alternative option that I use instead of scotch tape is to apply several layers of ordinary light beer, followed by heating the table to 80-100 ° C until the surface is completely dry and re-applying 7-12 layers. It is necessary to apply the liquid with a cloth moistened with a drink. Among the advantages of this solution: ABS plastic separates from the table on its own when it cools down to about 50 ° C and is removed without effort, the table does not have to be peeled off, and one bottle of beer will last you for several months (if you use the drink only for technical purposes :)).

After we have collected and configured everything, we can start printing. If you have an LCD screen, then the file can be transferred for printing using a regular SD card.

The first results may have bumps and other artifacts - do not worry, this is a normal process of "grinding" the printer elements, which will end after a few print cycles.

Tips to make life easier (and sometimes save money)

In addition to the small recommendations given in the text above, in this section I will also give a short list of tips that will greatly simplify the operation of a 3D printer and the life of its owner.

Do not experiment with nozzles. If you plan to immediately print from materials that require high temperatures, then it is better to immediately take the MK10 extruder. On MK8, you can "hang" special nozzles that support high-temperature conditions. But such modifications often cause difficulties and require special experience. It is better to avoid this fuss on the shore by simply installing the right extruder for you.
Add starter relay for heated table. Improving the power supply system for this important printing part with a starter relay will help solve the known problem of RAMP 1.4 - overheating of the transistors that control the power of the table, which can lead to failure of the board. I made this upgrade after having to throw away a few RAMPS 1.4s.
Select the correct filament diameter for printing. I recommend using 1.75mm plastic for MK8 and MK10. If we take plastic, for example, 3 mm, then the extruder simply does not have enough strength to push it at an acceptable speed - everything will be printed much longer, and the quality will drop. ABS plastic is ideal for MK8, MK10 will be able to produce products from polycarbonate.
Use only new and precise X and Y guides. Print quality will be affected. It is difficult to count on good quality with bent or deformed guides along the axes.
Take care of cooling. During my experiments with various extruders, the MK10 showed the best results - it prints quite accurately and quickly. The MK10 can also print plastics that require a higher print temperature than ABS, such as polycarbonate. Although it is not as prone to overheating as its younger brother MK8, I still recommend taking care of its cooling by adding a cooler to your design. It must be permanently enabled, this option can be configured in Slicer. You can also add coolers to keep the stepper motors at an acceptable temperature, however, make sure that their air flows do not fall on the printed part, as this can lead to its deformation due to too rapid cooling.
Consider heat retention. Yes, on the one hand, we are struggling with overheating of the elements. On the other hand, a uniform temperature around the printer will contribute to high-quality printing (the plastic will be more pliable). To achieve a uniform temperature, you can put our printer, for example, in a cardboard box. The main thing is to connect and configure the coolers before that, as described above.
Consider insulating your desk. Heated table heats up to high temperatures. And if part of this heat leaves properly, heating the printed part, then the second part (from below) just goes down. To concentrate the heat from the table onto the part, you can perform an operation to insulate it. To do this, I simply attach a cork mouse pad to its bottom using stationery clips.

Pins

I am sure that during the assembly process you will encounter a number of difficulties specific to your project. Neither this text nor even the most detailed guides will insure against this.

As I wrote in the introductory part, the above does not claim the status of a detailed assembly manual. It is almost impossible to describe all the stages and their subtleties within the framework of one such text. First of all, this is an overview material that will help you prepare for the assembly process (both mentally and financially), understand whether you personally need to bother with self-assembly - or give up on everything and buy a ready-made solution.

For me, assembling printers has become an exciting hobby that helps me solve some issues in home and work affairs, take my mind off programming and do something interesting with my own hands. For my children - entertainment and the opportunity to get unusual and unique toys. By the way, if you have children whose age allows them to mess around with such things, such an activity can be a good help for entering the world of mechanics and technology.

For everyone, the vectors of using 3D printers will be very different and very individual. But, if you decide to devote your personal time to such a hobby, believe me, you will definitely find something to print :)

I will be glad to answer comments, remarks and questions.

What to read/see

what can be printed;
3D printer forum;
RepRap community site with model descriptions and assembly instructions;
printer that prints electronics.

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Topics: DIY, embedded, tech

Construction 3D printing on printer S-6044 SPETSAVIA

We will not talk about some kind of equipment that allows you to build multi-storey buildings in a matter of days without human intervention with a full range of automated processes - there are enough such cartoonish profanities on the Internet. In addition to future projects and virtual intentions, there is nothing really existing in multi-storey and fully automated construction by printing at the moment.

However, it is realistic to build, in the sense of printing, a house measuring, for example, 120 sq.m. in two floors at the construction site is now possible.

In July, we started printing at home using the S-1160 large-format printer (remember, the print surface area is 10x11x2.7 m). In order not to be unfounded - a photo of the work below.

We are currently working on improvements to this printer. It is planned to bring the prototype to serial production at the end of 2015.

Currently, mass-produced printers are the so-called small-format printers. A new model of the S-6044 3D construction printer, developed on the basis of the S-6043 printer, has entered production.

Initially, the S- 6043 printer was positioned as equipment for printing small forms of landscape design elements, but with the advent of a new model of small-format printers of the S series - the S- 6044 printer, it became clear that it was possible to print with concrete not only various decorations for your landscape, but also elements and parts of buildings.

For comparison, photo printers S-6043 and S-6044

S-6043	S-6044

S-6044 standard build volume 12 cu. m. If necessary, it can be increased to 36 cubes of concrete. By combining traditional construction methods with printing complex moldings, you can actually build a beautiful house with building delights. The comprehensive program developed by us, which includes, in addition to the sale of equipment, a set of technical solutions for the construction of buildings using 3D printing, industrially produced mixtures and operator training, is a logically complete solution for the practical use of construction printers. It remains to be noted that the S 9 series printers0020 - 6043, S - 6044 - professional equipment designed for continuous operation in production environments. Maintenance of the printer itself is minimal: periodic lubrication of the linear guides. Motor reducers and hardware are maintenance-free.

Below, we publish some photos of S-6044:

How to build a house

What your house will look like and how it will look depends on a project that combines traditional construction methods and uses the possibilities of 3D printing. Let's make a reservation right away that the cost of construction does not increase, but the aesthetic appeal of this kind of construction is undeniable.

Following the concept of element-by-element printing, we have developed a number of technical solutions. allowing to integrate printed elements into existing standard house designs. Developing technologies for printing walls, reinforcing structures, heat and waterproofing, we are ready to offer practically proven options for these technical solutions, such as:

several types of multi-chamber walls designed for various methods of reinforcement and intracavitary filling, various methods for printing curved projection structures and structures with overhangs.
proven options for the use of reinforcing fiber fibers in building mixtures, incl. fiberglass, composite reinforcement for reinforcing curved structures, including in the printing process.
various types of general construction and high-strength cement compositions, moisture-resistant high-strength gypsum mixtures, gypsum foam compositions for thermal insulation of walls, including those already produced industrially for S series printers.

All these technologies are not only modern and highly efficient, but also innovative in their essence, since they themselves allow the generation of new technologies and carry a new quality.

The key to the successful development of these technologies is their integrity, i.e. connecting them themselves into a certain technological chain, which can be reformatted depending on the specific task being solved.

Training

Buying the desired equipment is usually not a sufficient component of successful work on it. Despite their apparent simplicity, construction printers are professional CNC equipment, the operation of which requires certain knowledge and skills. Among other things, you will need a general understanding of modeling, design and construction, physics and technology of working with concrete. Standing up for the end result - the real use of the equipment, we conduct theoretical training and practical work on our equipment. At your choice, you can learn how to print in Moscow at the training center, or at our production base in Yaroslavl.