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Best settings for 3d printer


Tips and Settings for the Best 3D Prints – Clever Creations

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Are you thinking of trying to 3D print with PLA filament? PLA is one of the most popular materials for 3D printing and an excellent choice for beginners because it’s easy to use and more economical than other filament options. Even so, there are some things you need to know before buying your first spool.

We’ll tell you all about what PLA is, why it’s a great option for 3D printing, and what settings and temperatures you should use for the best results.

What is PLA?

PLA (Polylactic acid) is a thermoplastic made from organic materials instead of petroleum. Short for polylactic acid, PLA is a compostable bioplastic derived from corn starch, sugarcane, and other types of renewable resources.

PLA has a wide variety of applications and is used in plastic bottles, plastic wrap, and some medical devices. While it is an efficient green alternative for product packaging and biodegradable components, PLA has a low heat tolerance which makes it unsuitable for any uses requiring direct contact with warm environments.

Why 3D Print With PLA?

PLA filament is one of the most popular materials for 3D printing because its material properties like low printing temperature makes it easy to print with. It is economical to produce, which leads to lower costs on filament. It is also easy to work with, mostly odorless, and biodegradable.

PLA filament is ideal for beginners and makers with budget 3D printers who don’t have advanced printing features. Unlike other filaments, like ABS, PETG and Nylon, PLA can be 3D printed without a heated build plate or 3D printer enclosure.

Image: Ajrocket1 via Wikimedia, CC BY-SA 4.0

PLA filament spools are typically made of either plastic or carton

Downsides of PLA

While there are several benefits to using PLA filament for 3D printing, there are also some downsides.

The biggest drawback of polylactic acid is its low melting point and low glass transition temperature. These make it easy to print with but limit the durability of the finished products. 3D prints made with PLA filament are unable to withstand high temperatures and will start to soften and warp from being left in a hot car, or in direct sunlight on a hot day.

Using specialty PLA filament blends (also known as PLA+ / Pro PLA filament) can make your finished 3D prints more resistant to high temperatures without affecting the printing temperature. However, these do come at a higher cost.

Another issue with PLA is that it is not as easy to post-process as other filament options like ABS. While 3D prints made from ABS can be smoothed by placing them in a closed container with acetone, PLA is resistant to most chemical smoothers. Instead, smoothing PLA 3D prints is done by sanding and/or covering with an epoxy resin.

To learn more about the differences between PLA vs ABS, check out our guide on the two materials. We also have a great article comparing PETG vs PLA if you want an alternate option to PLA without the downsides and strong 3D printing fumes of ABS.

What Do You Need to 3D Print With PLA?

As mentioned above, it is quite easy to print with PLA filament. That means even the most basic 3D printers can usually handle it with little difficulty.

Hot End

PLA filaments usually work well with nearly every hot end. If your hot end is capable of reaching a temperature of around 200 degrees Celsius, you can 3D print PLA with it. Most hotends for 3D printing are more than capable of reaching that nozzle temperature with little issue.

Similarly, to 3D print with PLA, your hot end does not need a fully constrained filament path. This is different from when working with flexible filament, for example.

You also don’t need an all-metal hot end for PLA either, since its low printing temperature means you won’t melt the non-metal components near your nozzle. When 3D printing high-temperature filaments, like Nylon or PEEK, you risk melting PTFE tubing and other non-metal components inside the hot end.

Image: syvwlch via Wikimedia, CC BY 2.0

Not all extruders are compatible with high-temperature filaments

Heated Bed

PLA also does not warp or deform that much as it cools, so it does not strictly require a heated bed to 3D print. This is different from when printing with ABS, where it is beneficial for the entire print to stay consistent and limit big differences in temperature.

The unnecessity of a heated bed makes PLA filament a great choice for 3D printing enthusiasts on a budget, as a heated bed adds additional costs (both in hardware and electricity usage) to the 3D printer.

That said, a heated bed is still an advantage when it comes to 3D printing PLA, as higher temperatures can increase bed adhesion of the first layer.

You can print PLA on most types of build plate surfaces, including metal, glass, and BuildTak. It does occasionally need an adhesive added to the surface of the bed if it is not sticking well on its own.

This can be as simple as a basic glue stick or as complex as a 3D print-specific adhesive. Painters’ tape on the bed is another popular way to make your PLA 3D prints stick.

Tips for PLA 3D Printing

It’s easy to get great results with PLA filament. If you are new to 3D printing, it is your best chance for getting good prints right away without too much fuss. It is just as easy to work with on a 3D printer under $300 as it is on a $1000 3D printer.

Even so, there are a few things to be aware of when starting to 3D print with PLA material.

How to Get the First Layer Right

It’s important to get the first layers just right with any 3D print, and PLA prints are no exception. The first layers are the building blocks for the whole print, so if they are off, the rest of the print will be as well.

Bed Leveling

The easiest way to get great-looking PLA prints is to have a level print bed. If your bed is uneven, certain areas of your first layers will be very close to the build plate while others are too far away. Not only does this make it difficult for the first layer to adhere to the build plate, it causes poor layer adhesion overall and makes the rest of the print unstable.

If your 3D printer does not offer automatic bed leveling, you might want to consider upgrading it with a BLTouch sensor to remove the need for manual leveling.

Nozzle Height

Your nozzle height is important to keep your first PLA print layers clean and well-adhered to the print bed. If the nozzle is too close to the bed, the melted filament will have difficulty extruding from the nozzle. If the nozzle is too far away from the print bed, the filament extrudes out in loose layers and doesn’t adhere well to the print bed or the previous layers.

Recommended PLA Print Settings

PLA is one of the easier 3D printing materials to get good print quality with even with a basic 3D printer. That being said, you need to know which PLA print settings to use in your slicing software to get the best results.

  • Nozzle Temperature: 195-220C
  • Bed Temperature: 60-70C (optional for better adhesion to the printer bed)
  • Layer Height: 0. 2mm for standard speed and quality
  • Print Speed: 30-90mm / second
  • Bed Material: Glass, aluminum, BuildTak.

Other settings like infill percentage, wall thickness, retraction speed, etc. are dependent on the individual project. For example, more infill is better for strength while a lower percentage is better to save filament. The download pages of most 3D models will give you the optimal settings for these settings.

Other Tips

Get the Temperature Right

Most PLA filaments work within a set range of printing temperatures. What exact temperature you should use depends on your 3D printer and the brand of PLA filament. Sometimes temperature settings can even vary between different colors of the same brand of filament since the pigments used to color them can affect the way filament behaves.

When trying a new type of PLA filament, you’ll need to experiment to find the best settings for your 3D printer. Check the specifications of your filament to find the ideal printing temperature range and run test prints starting at the lowest temperature. Work your way up by increasing the extruder temperature 5-10 degrees on each additional test print until you find the temperature that works best with your machine.

You can also print a temperature tower to do this within one print. Just be sure to track the specific PLA filament, 3D printer and settings you used so you remember what you tested for later.

Use a Good Quality Filament

It can be tempting to cut corners by using the cheapest PLA spool possible, but you almost always trade quality for those cheap prices. Inconsistent filament diameters, breakage from moisture, inconsistent tension on the spool, and other quality issues will make printing harder and result in a lot of waste.

You are better off buying a decent-quality PLA filament for a slightly higher cost per spool for easy printing and good results. There are many things that can go wrong during a 3D print, so controlling the obvious ones with good materials and parts makes the whole process much easier.

If you aren’t sure what brand to choose, head over to our guide on the best PLA filament brands to see our top picks.

Troubleshooting

My PLA Keeps Breaking Mid-print

Breaking PLA during 3D printing is most often caused by old or improperly stored filament. PLA can absorb moisture from the air, which causes it to turn brittle. If you bend your filament and it easily snaps in half, it’s probably been exposed to too much moisture.

A good way to fix and prevent this is by using a filament dry box for your 3D printing material. These keep filament dry for when you need it. Some even have the ability to dry out filament that has absorbed too much moisture, offering you the opportunity to restore brittle PLA.

Recommended:

The 10 Best Filament Storage Containers and Dry Boxes

If your PLA bends like it’s supposed to, the problem could be due to improper tension. Either the filament wasn’t wound on the spool consistently during production (a common problem with cheap filaments) or it is getting too much resistance at your spool holder.

My PLA Keeps Jamming My Extruder

A jamming 3D printer extruder is common with cheaper PLA filaments. It is usually because the filament’s diameter is not consistent. It can also be caused by the filament not being perfectly round, which is yet another sign of poor filament quality.

The best way to ensure that your filament is the size and shape it is supposed to be is to buy a quality filament that has been manufactured with precise tolerances. This will prevent PLA filament getting stuck in the PTFE tube.

Extruder jamming can also occur when the extruder temperature is set too low. However, this is harder to do with PLA than other materials like ABS, since PLA plastic has a pretty wide range of tolerances for extrusion temperature.

Many PLA+ filaments are formulated to avoid extruder jams and clogs. You can learn more about the differences between standard PLA vs PLA+ in our dedicated article.

Conclusion

PLA 3D printing is a great option for getting good print quality without the hassle of complicated print settings you sometimes have with other materials. You can 3D print PLA with a low extruder temperature and no heated bed or enclosure. While PLA does have some downsides, it is still one of the best materials for 3D printing beginners.

If you have any questions, for example if you are wondering if PLA is food safe, don’t hesitate to ask us in the comments!

10 Most Important 3D Printing Slicer Settings

A 3D printing slicer is a software package that converts a 3D model into a set of machine-readable instructions to print the part. The success of the 3D printed part depends heavily on selecting the correct 3D printing slicer settings. These settings can mean the difference between a high-quality part or a difficult-to-clean tangled mess of plastic. The most important settings for an optimal 3D print are temperature, location and number of supports, and bed adhesion. Getting these settings wrong will most likely result in a failed print. This article will explore the ten most important settings of FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) printers to keep track of to ensure a successful 3D printed part.

1. Temperature

The temperature settings in 3D printer slicer software refer to the temperatures of the build platform and the extruder. The optimal build platform temperature helps keep the first printed layer attached to the build platform while also limiting the potential for warping. The extruder temperature, on the other hand, is the temperature that the plastic is heated to as it is extruded from the print nozzle. Both of these temperatures are selected based on the material being extruded. For example, PLA (Polylactic acid) requires a bed temperature of 50°C and an extruder temperature of 95°C, whereas ABS (Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) requires a bed temperature of 70°C and an extruder temperature of 210°C. Many slicers will have predefined temperature settings for specific material classes. These values generally work well without too much tweaking.

2. Speed

Printing speed can be set to a global value in a slicer program. However, it is possible to set specific speeds for specific parts of the print. For example, speeding up the printing of the infill can save significant time as these areas will not be seen, while printing the walls at a slower speed will result in improved print quality. In general, increasing the speed will result in faster prints but this will be at the expense of print quality. The more rigid a 3D printer, the higher the speed it can print at while maintaining good quality.

3. Flow

The flow rate of the 3D printer refers to the rate at which material exits the nozzle. Normally the flow rate is set at a default value depending on the printer. An incorrect flow rate will result in wall thicknesses that are either too thin or too thick. A high flow rate will result in excessive filament usage, whereas a low flow rate may result in structurally weak prints. The flow rate rarely needs to be changed. The flow rate is usually not changed directly but is modified by entering a factor that is multiplied by the default flow rate.

4. Retraction

Whenever the printer is not actively printing, i. e., when it is moving from one location to the next, it will slowly ooze plastic from the nozzle. This phenomenon can result in thin strings of plastic draped all over the print. Retraction addresses this issue by reversing the extruder to pull the material back into the nozzle when it is not actively being dispensed, thus preventing oozing. Retraction settings can be further customized by setting the amount of material that is retracted as well as the speed of retraction. 

5. Cooling

3D printer settings for cooling are primarily linked to the speed of the fan located on the extruder assembly. This fan speed is set on a scale of 0 to 100%. The cooling fan speed is especially important if large unsupported overhangs or bridges are to be printed. This is because the plastic will sag between unsupported areas if not cooled quickly enough. The fan is typically turned off during the printing of the first layer, as this helps produce a better bottom surface and improves the bed adhesion.

6. Infill

Many slicers will have a large number of different infill settings. The most important of these are the infill density and the infill pattern. The higher the infill density, the denser the part, with 0% referring to a part with no infill and 100% referring to a completely solid part. A typical infill density is 20%. The term “infill pattern” refers to the geometric shape of the infill. There are many different infill patterns. The most common is the grid infill. Some patterns optimize print time at the expense of part strength. Others prioritize parts strength at the expense of longer cycle time.

7. Supports

Determining the optimal 3D printing slicer settings for supports is critical to effectively printing parts with overhangs or bridges. Optimizing the cooling rate can assist with printing overhangs without supports, although this is generally not recommended. A 3D printer cannot simply dispense material into thin air. Every layer needs some kind of support beneath it - either the previous layer's print or a designed-in support member that is not a part of the finished product. Figure 1 below is an example of a 3D printed part with support:

In the case of overhung features, the support material must be built up from the build plate to where the overhang begins. As with infill, the support density and pattern can also be adjusted. The minimum overhang angle can be set to control where supports are placed. This value is typically between 45 and 60% (0% means no supports are placed anywhere, and 90% means that even the slightest overhang is supported).

8. Layer Height

The slicer software will divide a part into multiple slices along its z-axis (vertical direction). The height of these slices is known as the layer height. A large layer height will result in faster prints since the machine does not have to print as many layers. However, this will be at the expense of dimensional resolution. Small layer heights will take longer but the part will have higher resolution. 

9. Shell Thickness

The shell thickness of 3D printing slicer settings refer to the characteristics of the outer plastic shell that forms the wall of the 3D printed part. The shell thickness must be a multiple of the nozzle print width, i.e. a shell thickness of 0.8 mm with a 0.4 mm nozzle will mean the nozzle will extrude two lines. The number of layers in the wall can be set to increase the part strength with only a slight increase in print time.

10. Adhesion Resistant

A common challenge with 3D printing is bed adhesion. Parts will sometimes come loose from the print bed. This can cause the printer to extrude the material into empty air, since the part it was supposed to build on is no longer in the correct location, creating a tangled mess of plastic. Alternatively, if the part adheres to the nozzle, plastic will slowly accumulate around the nozzle and ultimately encase the entire extruder. Poor bed adhesion can also cause the first layer to warp, resulting in print failure. Bed adhesion can be improved in the slicer 3D printer settings by printing a “brim.” A brim is a single layer that effectively expands the surface area of the first printed layer, creating a larger bonding area on the bed plate.

What is a 3D Printer Slicer?

A 3D printer slicer is a software package used to prepare a 3D model for 3D printing. It converts the model, typically in STL format, into a set of printer instructions in a machine-control language called G-code. For more information, see our article on Slicers in 3D Printing.

Why Are 3D Printer Slicer Settings Important?

3D printer slicer settings are important because they ensure that a part is printed with the correct set of instructions for a specific material and part design. The settings also help ensure that every unique part is printed with the correct supports, infill, temperature, etc. Using the incorrect slicer settings will result in a failed print. 

How Can I Change the Settings on my Slicer?

The exact method of changing a slicer’s settings depends on the software being used. However, most slicers will have a set of standard 3D printing settings for new users, as well as more advanced 3D printing slicer settings that can be modified by more experienced users.  

How to Use a 3D Slicer

Slicer software can be used by downloading it from the supplier's website. Some slicers are free, while others need to be purchased. Once it is downloaded and installed, open the software and import the desired 3D model. The acceptable file formats will depend on the software you are using, but the most common format is STL (standard file format). Most CAD and design packages can export models as STLs.

How Does a 3D Printer Slicer Work?

A 3D printer slicer works by converting a 3D model into multiple 2D slices. The number of slices depends on the chosen layer height. These individual 2D slices are then converted into a set of instructions that can be understood by the 3D printer. These instructions are called G-code. They tell the machine where and how fast to move, and what temperatures are required, and give it information about other features to be printed, such as brims, supports, and outer shell thickness.

What Are the Best Slicers for 3D Printing?

There are many different slicer software packages available. The best of these are:

  1. Cura: This software was developed by Ultimaker, which has its own range of top-tier 3D printers. Cura is free and can be used with almost any FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) 3D printer.
  2. Simplify 3D: Simplify 3D is a paid software that comes with a range of powerful printer settings.
  3. Prusa Slicer: This software was developed by Prusa, which supplies medium-cost, high-quality 3D printers.
  4. Netfabb: Netfabb is a professional software package developed by Autodesk. It is best suited for industrial 3D printing applications. Netfabb can be used for preparing files for almost any type of 3D printer technology.
  5. Dremel Slicer: Dremel Slicer, also known as Dremel Digilab 3D Slicer, is a Cura-based slicer software program developed for Dremel 3D printers. It can also be used with Cura-integrated 3D printers.

For more information, see our article on the Best Slicer Software for 3D Printing.

Does the Slicer Affect Print Quality?

No, the brand of slicer software used will not affect the print quality. However, using the correct 3D printing slicer settings can be the difference between a failed print and a successful one. Most slicers will provide good baseline settings but these must often be tweaked to get optimal results.

Summary

This article presented ten 3D printing slicer settings, explained what they are, and discussed how each one is important for 3D printing. To learn more about 3D printing slicer settings, contact a Xometry representative.

Xometry provides a wide range of manufacturing capabilities, including 3D printing and other value-added services for all of your prototyping and production needs. Visit our website to learn more or to request a free, no-obligation quote.

Disclaimer

The content appearing on this webpage is for informational purposes only. Xometry makes no representation or warranty of any kind, be it expressed or implied, as to the accuracy, completeness, or validity of the information. Any performance parameters, geometric tolerances, specific design features, quality and types of materials, or processes should not be inferred to represent what will be delivered by third-party suppliers or manufacturers through Xometry’s network. Buyers seeking quotes for parts are responsible for defining the specific requirements for those parts. Please refer to our terms and conditions for more information.

Team Xometry

This article was written by various Xometry contributors. Xometry is a leading resource on manufacturing with CNC machining, sheet metal fabrication, 3D printing, injection molding, urethane casting, and more.

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