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3D printer price check


How Much Does a 3D Printer Cost?

In-house 3D printing is a versatile solution for a wide range of applications, from high-resolution models to rapid prototyping, rapid tooling for traditional production processes, manufacturing aids, and even end-use parts in manufacturing.

When you consider investing in a 3D printer, however, viability typically boils down to a simple question: does it make economic sense for your business? How much does a 3D printer cost and how much time and cost can you actually save with it for your business?

3D printer prices range from about $200 to $500,000+ depending on the printing process, materials, and the level of sophistication of the 3D printing solution. 

In this guide, we’ll walk you through the 3D printing costs for different technologies, compare outsourcing with in-house production, lay out the various factors you should account for to calculate cost per part, and look at considerations beyond cost when comparing various 3D printing solutions and other production methods.

Interactive

Try our interactive ROI tool to see how much time and cost you can save when 3D printing on Formlabs 3D printers.

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The three most established plastic 3D printing processes today are fused deposition modeling (FDM), stereolithography (SLA), and selective laser sintering (SLS). 

Each 3D printing technology has its pros and cons—here's an infographic for a quick comparison:

Download the high-resolution version of this infographic here. Would you like to learn more about FDM, SLA, and SLS 3D printing technologies? Check out our in-depth guide.

3D printer prices have dropped significantly in recent years, and today, all three technologies are available in compact, affordable systems.

As a rule of thumb, FDM 3D printers will create the cheapest parts if you’re printing only relatively simple prototypes in limited numbers. SLA resin 3D printers offer higher resolution, better quality, and a wide variety of 3D printing materials at a slight premium, but the difference quickly diminishes when you print complex designs or larger batches due to the less labor-intensive post-processing. Lastly, SLS 3D printing is the most cost-effective process for producing medium to large volumes of high-quality functional parts.

Comparing the overall cost of different 3D printers goes beyond sticker prices -- these won’t tell you the full story of how much a 3D printer costs and how much your printed part will cost. 3D printing material and labor costs have a significant influence on cost per part, depending on the application and your production needs.

Let’s look at all the different factors and costs for each process.

FDM, also known as fused filament fabrication (FFF), is a printing method that builds parts by melting and extruding thermoplastic filament, which a printer nozzle deposits layer by layer in the build area.

FDM is the most widely used form of 3D printing at the consumer level, fueled by the emergence of hobbyist 3D printers. Professional and industrial FDM printers are, however, also popular with professionals.

The lowest cost 3D printers are almost exclusively FDM printers. Prices for the cheapest entry-level DIY FDM 3D printer kits start at around $200. However, most of these models are more like toys or DIY projects themselves that require you to spend a considerable amount of time assembling, tweaking, and calibrating the printer. Print quality is highly dependent on the success of these steps and still, these machines will require you to do repairs and regular maintenance to keep them running, so they are only recommended for anyone with an (in progress) engineering degree and lots of time and patience.

Hobbyist FDM 3D printers which cost around $500-$1,500 might come as a kit or assembled, require slightly less tweaking, but they still share much of the same disadvantages as the lowest-cost 3D printers. Some models closer to the top of this range will offer bigger build volumes and also more material options beyond low-temperature materials like PLA.

Professional FDM 3D printers start around $2,500, and large-format professional FDM printers start around $4,000, while the most advanced industrial FDM printers can easily cost more than $10,000. Most of these printers will come assembled and calibrated out of the box, or they can auto-calibrate themselves. Printers in this category offer better print quality, a wider range of materials, larger build volumes, better reliability, and are easier to use and maintain. Unlike lower-cost printers, manufacturers of professional 3D printers also offer customer support to troubleshoot issues.

Regarding materials, FDM 3D printing material costs range from around $50 to $150/kg for most standard and engineering filaments and $100-200/kg for support materials. Cheaper alternatives might be available, but once again, with a trade-off in terms of quality.

Lastly, FDM printing can be highly labor-intensive. Many designs, especially complex models, require support structures for successful printing, which need to be removed manually or by dissolving the structures in case of soluble supports. To obtain a high-quality finish and remove layer lines, parts require lengthy manual post-processing, such as sanding.

SLA 3D printers use a laser to cure liquid resin into hardened plastic in a process called photopolymerization. SLA is one of the most popular processes among professionals due to its high resolution, precision, and material versatility.

SLA parts have the highest accuracy, the clearest details, and the smoothest surface finish of all plastic 3D printing technologies, but the main benefit of SLA lies in its versatility. SLA resin formulations offer a wide range of optical, mechanical, and thermal properties to match those of standard, engineering, and industrial thermoplastics.

SLA 3D printing offers a wide range of materials for a variety of applications.

While SLA technology used to be available only in large, complex industrial 3D printers that cost more than $200,000, the process has become much more accessible. With the Formlabs Form 3+ printer, businesses now have access to industrial-quality SLA for just $3,750. Large-format SLA with the Form 3L starts at just $11,000.

SLA 3D printers will come assembled and calibrated out of the box. They’re professional tools that are reliable also for production and require barely any maintenance. Customer support is also readily available to troubleshoot issues in the unlikely event that something goes wrong.

In terms of material costs, SLA resins cost around $149-$200/L for most standard and engineering resins.

SLA printers are easy to use and many steps of the workflow like washing and post-curing can be mostly automated to reduce labor needs. Printed parts have a high-quality finish right off the printer and require only simple post-processing to remove support marks.

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In this free report, we look at how in-house large-format 3D printing with the Form 3L stacks up against other methods of production, chiefly outsourcing and using FDM printers. We also compare costs between methods, and review when it would be best to bring the Form 3L in-house.

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SLS 3D printers use a high-powered laser to fuse small particles of polymer powder. The unfused powder supports the part during printing and eliminates the need for dedicated support structures, which makes SLS ideal for complex geometries, including interior features, undercuts, thin walls, and negative features. 

Parts produced with SLS printing have excellent mechanical characteristics, with strength resembling that of injection-molded parts. As a result, SLS is the most common plastic 3D printing process for industrial applications.

SLS nylon parts are ideal for a range of functional applications, from engineering consumer products to healthcare.

Just like SLA, SLS used to be only available in large-format, complex 3D printing systems starting at about $200,000. With Formlabs’s Fuse 1 SLS printer, businesses can now access industrial SLS starting from $18,500, and $29,743 for a complete setup that includes a post-processing and powder recovery system.

Also similar to SLA printers, SLS printers will come assembled and calibrated out of the box. They are reliable and developed for 24/7 production, and come with advanced training and fast customer support.

Nylon materials for SLS printing cost around $100/kg. SLS requires no support structures, and unfused powder can be reused, which lowers material costs.

SLS is the least labor-intensive plastic 3D printing process in a production setting as parts have great quality right out of the printer and require only simple cleaning to remove excess powder.

Beyond plastics, there are multiple 3D printing processes available for metal 3D printing. 

  • Metal FDM

Metal FDM printers work similarly to traditional FDM printers, but extrude metal rods held together by polymer binders. The finished “green” parts are then sintered in a furnace to remove the binder. 

SLM and DMLS printers work similarly to SLS printers, but fuse metal powder particles together layer by layer using a laser instead of polymers. SLM and DMLS 3D printers can create strong, accurate, and complex metal products, making this process ideal for aerospace, automotive, and medical applications.

While metal 3D printer prices have also begun to decrease, with costs ranging from $100,000 to $1 million, these systems are still not accessible to most businesses.

Alternatively, SLA 3D printing is well-suited for casting workflows that produce metal parts at a lower cost, with greater design freedom, and in less time than traditional methods.

White Paper

Get design guidelines for creating 3D printed patterns, walk through the step-by-step direct investment casting process, and explore guidelines for indirect investment casting and sand casting.

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The various plastic and metal 3D printing processes have unique qualities that make them suitable for different applications. Here's a quick breakdown. 

Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM)Stereolithography (SLA)Selective Laser Sintering (SLS)Metal FDMSelective Laser Melting (SLM) and Direct Metal Laser Sintering (DMLS)
Resolution★★☆☆☆★★★★★★★★★☆★★☆☆☆★★★★☆
Accuracy★★★★☆★★★★★★★★★★★★★☆☆★★★★★
Surface Finish★★☆☆☆★★★★★★★★★☆★★☆☆☆★★★★☆
Throughput★★★★☆★★★★☆★★★★★★★★☆☆★★★★☆
Complex Designs★★★☆☆★★★★☆★★★★★★★★☆☆★★★★★
Ease of Use★★★★★★★★★★★★★★☆★★★★☆★☆☆☆☆
Build VolumeUp to 300 x 300 x 600 mm (desktop and benchtop 3D printers)Up to 300 x 335 x 200 mm (desktop and benchtop 3D printers)Up to 165 x 165 x 300 mm (benchtop industrial 3D printers)Up to 300 x 200 x 200mmUp to 400 x 400 x 400 mm
Price RangeDIY printers 3D printer kits start around $200, hobbyist printers range from $500-$1,500. Professional FDM 3D printers start around $2,500, and large-format professional FDM printers start around $4,000.Professional desktop printers start at $3,750, large-format benchtop printers offer a bigger build volume for $11,000.Benchtop industrial SLS systems start at $18,500, and traditional industrial printers are available from $100,000.Metal FDM printers start from $100,000, but the full solution that includes a furnace goes well beyond that.DMLS/SLM solutions start around $200,000. These printers also come with stringent facility requirements which may increase the costs further.
Material Costs$50-$150/kg for most standard and engineering filaments, and $100-200/kg for support materials.$149-$200/L for most standard and engineering resins.$100/kg for nylon. SLS requires no support structures, and unfused powder can be reused, which lowers material costs.Depends on the material and the technology. Significantly higher than plastics.Depends on the material and the technology. Significantly higher than plastics.
Labor NeedsManual support removal (can be simplified in some cases with soluble supports). Lengthy post-processing is required for a high-quality finish.Washing and post-curing (both can be mostly automated). Simple post-processing to remove support marks.Simple cleaning to remove excess powder.Washing and sintering (both can be mostly automated). Optionally machining and other surface treatments.Stress relief, support removal, heat treatment, as well as machining, and other surface treatments.
MaterialsStandard thermoplastics, such as ABS, PLA, and their various blends.Varieties of resin (thermosetting plastics). Standard, engineering (ABS-like, PP-like, silicone-like, flexible, heat-resistant, rigid), castable, dental, and medical (biocompatible).Engineering thermoplastics, typically nylon and its composites (nylon 12 is biocompatible + compatible with sterilization). Stainless steel, tool steel, inconel, copper, titanium.Stainless steel, tool steel, titanium, cobalt chrome, copper, aluminum, nickel alloys.
Ideal applicationsBasic proof-of-concept models, low-cost prototyping of simple parts.Highly detailed prototypes requiring tight tolerances and smooth surfaces, molds, tooling, patterns, medical models, and functional parts.Complex geometries, functional prototypes, short-run or bridge manufacturing.Strong and durable parts, tooling, and manufacturing aids.Strong, durable parts with complex geometries; ideal for aerospace, automotive, and medical applications.

Calculating cost per part requires accounting for the costs of equipment ownership, material, and labor. It’s helpful to understand the factors that influence each of these cost components, and the questions to ask to evaluate alternative production methods and uncover hidden costs.

Fixed costs, such as the 3D printer cost, service contracts, installation, and maintenance, together make up the equipment ownership cost. These expenses occur regardless of whether your 3D printer stands idle or produces dozens of parts a week.

Distribute equipment ownership costs over individual parts by adding up all of the forecasted fixed costs over the lifetime of the machine and divide the sum by the number of parts that it is expected to produce. As a rule of thumb, the higher the productivity and utilization of your 3D printer, the lower the equipment ownership cost on a per-part basis.

Desktop 3D printers have achieved tremendous progress in recent years in lowering equipment ownership costs. With a price point 10-100 times lower than traditional industrial 3D printers and the capability to produce thousands of parts over their lifetime, the equipment ownership cost can become negligible.

Questions to ask:

  • Are there installation, training, or further initial expenses beside the cost of the machine?

  • Is there a (mandatory) service contract? What does it include?

  • Beyond the machine, what accessories and tools are required to create final parts?

  • What are the maintenance needs of the machine within the normal range of activity? What’s the expected annual cost of maintenance? How does it change if production levels rise?

Raw 3D printing materials and other consumables required to create parts are variable costs. These costs are highly dependent on the number of parts you’re producing.

Measure material cost by calculating the amount of 3D printing material that’s required to create a single part, and multiply it by the cost of the material. Calculate in waste and any other consumables that are needed. While equipment ownership costs decrease as production grows, material costs for 3D printing tend to flatten out quickly.

Make sure to clarify what materials you’ll need to create the given parts, as the cost of consumables for 3D printing varies. Also note that some 3D printers only work with proprietary materials, and thus limit your third-party material options.

Questions to ask:

  • What is the cost of each type of 3D printing material?

  • How much material is required to create a given part, including waste?

  • What’s the shelf life of the materials?

  • Are there other consumables required to create the parts?

  • Can the machine work with third-party materials?

While 3D printing can replace the complex workflows of traditional manufacturing methods and lead to substantial time savings, depending on the 3D printing technology, it can still be a fairly labor-intensive process.

Professional desktop 3D printers are generally optimized for ease of use. DIY 3D printers and hobbyist printers often require more tinkering to get the settings dialed in, whereas regular maintenance or changing materials on traditional industrial machines can involve time-consuming tasks that require a skilled operator.

Post-processing workflows vary by 3D printing process, but in most cases include cleaning parts and removing supports or excess material. There are solutions to automate some of these tasks; for example, Formlabs Form Wash and Form Cure simplify the washing and post-curing workflow for Formlabs SLA 3D printers, and Fuse Sift offers a turnkey post-processing and powder recovery system for the Fuse 1 SLS printer.

To achieve high-quality parts, more advanced processes like SLA and SLS don’t require time-consuming steps, but FDM parts will need lengthy manual post-processing to improve the quality and remove layer lines.

Questions to ask:

  • What is the entire workflow for producing parts? What are the specific steps required to set up a print, change materials, and post-process parts?

  • How much time does it take to post-process a given part?

  • Are there any tools or devices available to automate some of these tasks?

Outsourcing production to service bureaus or labs is recommended when you require 3D printing only occasionally, and for parts that are large or call for non-standard materials. Bureaus generally have several 3D printing processes in-house such as SLA, SLS, FDM, and metal 3D printers. They can also provide advice on various materials and offer value-added services such as design or advanced finishing.

The main downsides of outsourcing are cost and lead time. One of the greatest benefits of 3D printing is its speed compared to traditional manufacturing methods, which quickly diminishes when an outsourced part takes multiple days or even weeks to arrive. With growing demand and production, outsourcing also rapidly becomes expensive.

Desktop 3D printers are great when you need parts quickly. Depending on the number of parts and printing volume, investment into a professional 3D printer can break even within months.With desktop and benchtop machines, you can pay for just as much capacity as your business needs, and scale production by adding extra units as demand grows without making a significant investment in a large-format 3D printer. By using multiple 3D printers, you also get the flexibility to print parts in different materials simultaneously. Service bureaus can still supplement this flexible workflow for larger parts or unconventional materials.

Try our interactive 3D printing ROI calculator to see how much time and cost you can save when 3D printing on Formlabs 3D printers compared to outsourcing.

Investment, materials, and labor costs are relatively easy to calculate. But what about indirect costs and factors that are hard to quantify, but still influence your business? Let’s look at some of the key considerations when comparing desktop 3D printing to outsourcing or other production methods.

Time savings: What if you could bring products to market months faster? Or cut the lead time for your products by days or weeks? 3D printing simplifies traditional prototyping and production workflows, helping you to save time and outpace the competition.

Better results: 3D printing allows you to create more iterations, fail faster, and achieve better end products. Finding and fixing design flaws early also helps to avoid costly design revisions and tooling changes in production.

Communication: Having high-quality prototypes and parts allows you to better communicate with customers, clients, suppliers, and other stakeholders. Avoid confusion and costly mistakes.

IP protection: Do you work with sensitive information? Creating parts in-house means you won’t have to give away intellectual property (IP) to third parties, reducing the risks of leaks or IP theft.

Calculating cost per part, lead time, and comparing alternatives to figure out if a solution makes sense for your business would normally be the strenuous task of creating an elaborate spreadsheet and trying to gather all of the—often hidden—information from a manufacturer. 

To skip this hassle, try our simple, interactive 3D printing cost calculator to calculate 3D printing cost and lead time on Formlabs 3D printers, and to compare time and cost savings to other production methods.

Calculate Cost and Time Savings

The Best Cheap 3D Printers for 2022

While we'd hesitate to call 3D printing a mature technology, you might say it has reached its teenage years. Through their first decade-and-change, 3D printers have come down in price, grown easier to set up and operate, and become more reliable. And you may pay less than you expect: Many once-high-end features have migrated down to inexpensive models.

PC Labs has been reviewing 3D printers since 2013. Today, the state of 3D printing is strong, but that wasn’t always the case. For the first several years, it was often an adventure getting one of these printers up and running, let alone successfully through our testing regimen. Issues with filament-based—aka fused filament fabrication (FFF) or fused deposition modeling (FDM)—printers were abundant.

Filament feeders had to be coaxed into delivering filament from the spool to the extruder. Print beds had to be manually aligned. The extruder or hot end had to be positioned just right to minimize the gap between the nozzle and the build plate (the flat surface on which the object is printed). Objects frequently stuck to the build plate, and required careful, sometimes unsuccessful, efforts to pry them off. These and other issues required painstaking effort to resolve, often combined with calls to tech support.

Not so much anymore. While they can still be rebellious at times, 3D printers have grown up a lot, and achieving the 3D printer basics has gotten a lot less likely to end in a shouting match over small things. And they've gotten a lot more affordable, too, for curious DIY-ers and hobbyists to try.

If you're in the market for a beginner or low-cost 3D printer, it's important to know how lower-end models differ. Read on for mini-reviews of the top budget 3D printers we've tested. After that, we go into more detail on understanding the 3D printer specs and tech relevant to beginning buyers. Ready to take the plunge? Read on.

Original Prusa Mini

Best Overall Budget 3D Printer

4.5 Outstanding

Bottom Line:

It requires assembly and calibration care (plus shipping from the Czech Republic), but the Original Prusa Mini is a compact, open-frame 3D printer that consistently produces superb-quality output for a great price.

PROS

  • Top-notch object quality
  • Supports a variety of filament types
  • Useful, professionally printed user guide
  • Great support resources
  • Versatile, user-friendly software

CONS

  • First-layer calibration can be tricky
  • Only includes starter packets of filament
  • Requires monitoring if young children or pets are around

Sold By List Price Price
Prusa Research $399.00 $399.00 See It (Opens in a new window)

Read Our Original Prusa Mini Review

XYZprinting da Vinci Mini

Best Budget 3D Printer for Schools, Community Centers

4.0 Excellent

Bottom Line:

The XYZprinting da Vinci Mini is a consumer-oriented 3D printer that provides a winning combination of low price, ease of setup and use, solid print quality, and smooth, misprint-free operation.

PROS

  • Very low price.
  • Reasonably priced filament.
  • Good print quality.
  • No misprints in testing.
  • Easy setup and operation.
  • Quiet.
  • Prints over a USB or Wi-Fi connection.

CONS

  • Occasional problems in trying to launch prints.
  • Removing printed objects from the print bed is sometimes tricky.

Sold By List Price Price
Walmart $199.95 $199.95 See It (Opens in a new window)
Amazon $199.95 $199.95 See It (Opens in a new window)

Read Our XYZprinting da Vinci Mini Review

Toybox 3D Printer

Best Budget 3D Printer for Children

4.0 Excellent

Bottom Line:

The Toybox 3D Printer works well as a model designed for children, offering reliable printing from a browser or mobile device and a few thousand toys to print, plus creative options to output drawings or photos. Just bear in mind the tiny build area.

PROS

  • Reliable, misprint-free printing
  • Easy setup
  • One-touch operation
  • Well-composed help resources
  • Access to more than 2,000 printable toys and projects
  • Lets you create your own printable designs

CONS

  • Tiny build area
  • Not ideal for importing 3D files created elsewhere

Sold By List Price Price
Amazon $299.00 $299.00 See It (Opens in a new window)
Toybox Labs $379.00 $299.00 See It (Opens in a new window)

Read Our Toybox 3D Printer Review

Monoprice Mini Delta V2 3D Printer

Best Budget 3D Printer for Beginners, Non-Techies

4.0 Excellent

Bottom Line:

3D printing gurus will be intrigued by the Monoprice Mini Delta V2's use of the delta rather than Cartesian coordinate system, but beginners will just enjoy its low price, ease of use, and speedy printing.

PROS

  • Sub-$200 price
  • Quick, nearly misprint-free printing
  • Easy setup and operation
  • Sturdy steel-and-aluminum frame
  • Supports multiple filament types

CONS

  • Tiny build area
  • So-so print quality
  • Mere one-year warranty

Sold By List Price Price
Amazon $179.99 $179.99 See It (Opens in a new window)

Read Our Monoprice Mini Delta V2 3D Printer Review

Anycubic i3 Mega S

Best Budget 3D Printer With an Open Design, Big Build Area

3.5 Good

Bottom Line:

The Anycubic i3 Mega S, an inexpensive open-frame 3D printer, produced decent-quality prints in our testing. To get the most out of it, though, may require precise calibration.

PROS

  • Modestly priced
  • Large build area for an inexpensive printer
  • Supports a variety of filament types
  • Generally solid print quality
  • Uses well-known Cura software

CONS

  • Finicky print-platform alignment
  • Supported coils of filament are small
  • Poorly placed spool holder

Sold By List Price Price
Amazon $229. 98 $229.98 Check Stock (Opens in a new window)

Read Our Anycubic i3 Mega S Review

Anycubic Vyper

Best Budget 3D Printer for the Biggest Build Area Possible

3.5 Good

Bottom Line:

Anycubic's modestly priced Vyper whips up large 3D prints on its open-frame design, and provides automatic print-bed leveling. Just know that some minor assembly is required—and printed objects may require a bit of cleanup.

PROS

  • Relatively large build area
  • Automatic bed leveling
  • Simple assembly

CONS

  • Short (one-year) warranty
  • Includes only a small starter filament coil
  • Using Cura software with the Vyper requires tweaking a couple of settings
  • Test prints showed some "hairy" filament residue

Sold By List Price Price
Amazon $429. 99 $429.99 See It (Opens in a new window)
AnyCubic $369.00 $319.00 See It (Opens in a new window)

Read Our Anycubic Vyper Review

Creality Ender-3 V2

Best Budget 3D Printer for Tinkerers and DIY Types

3.5 Good

Bottom Line:

Hands-on tweaking defines Creality's budget-price Ender-3 V2, an open-frame 3D printer that you build from a kit. It produces generally above-par prints, but its print bed can be tricky to keep leveled.

PROS

  • Inexpensive
  • Slightly above-average print quality
  • Good-size build area for its price
  • Supports several filament types

CONS

  • Manual print-bed leveling can be tricky
  • Setup instructions could be deeper, more legible
  • Questionable quality control on some parts

Sold By List Price Price
Amazon $299. 00 $246.00 See It (Opens in a new window)

Read Our Creality Ender-3 V2 Review

Flashforge Finder 3D Printer

Best 3D Printer for the Very Tightest Budgets

3.5 Good

Bottom Line:

The Flashforge Finder 3D Printer is moderately priced and offers good print quality, but it proved tricky to get up and running in our tests.

PROS

  • Quiet.
  • Good print quality.
  • Connects via USB 2.0 cable, USB thumb drive, or Wi-Fi.
  • Reasonably priced.

CONS

  • Some objects pulled off the platform during testing.
  • Poor documentation.
  • Modest build volume.
  • Limited to printing with polylactic acid filament (PLA).

Sold By List Price Price
Amazon $729.00 $729.00 Check Stock (Opens in a new window)

Read Our Flashforge Finder 3D Printer Review

Polaroid PlaySmart 3D Printer

Best Budget 3D Printer for Dabbling in Small Objects

3. 5 Good

Bottom Line:

The Polaroid PlaySmart 3D Printer is a compact, stylish 3D printer with above-par overall print quality, but, alas, a tiny build area for the money.

PROS

  • Small, lightweight for a desktop 3D printer.
  • Easy to set up and use.
  • Supports PLA, PETG, and wood composite filaments.
  • Multiple-color support.
  • Wi-Fi camera monitors print jobs.
  • Prints from USB drives, SD cards, or mobile devices.

CONS

  • High price for its capabilities.
  • Small build area.
  • Too-brief warranty.

Sold By List Price Price
Amazon $699.00 $699.00 See It (Opens in a new window)

Read Our Polaroid PlaySmart 3D Printer Review

XYZprinting da Vinci Jr. 1.0 A Pro

Best Budget 3D Printer With Closed Design, Roomy Build Area

3. 5 Good

Bottom Line:

The XYZprinting da Vinci Jr. 1.0 A Pro is a moderately priced closed-frame 3D printer with a large build volume and overall good performance, but a potentially balky filament-feeding system.

PROS

  • Spacious build area
  • Works with third-party filaments
  • Self-leveling print bed

CONS

  • Build plate is not heated
  • Limited to PLA- and PETG-based filaments
  • Guide tube is prone to detaching

Sold By List Price Price
Amazon $299.95 $199.95 See It (Opens in a new window)
Best Buy $449.95 $449.95 Check Stock (Opens in a new window)

Read Our XYZprinting da Vinci Jr. 1.0 A Pro Review

Monoprice Voxel 3D Printer

Best Budget 3D Printer for Cheap Filament

3. 0 Average

Bottom Line:

The Monoprice Voxel is an under-$400 3D printer that's easy to set up and use. It exhibits generally good print quality, but it was unable to print two of our test objects.

PROS

  • Easy to set up and use.
  • Budget price for printer and filament spools.
  • Supports PLA, ABS, and several composite filament types.
  • Versatile software.
  • Prints over Ethernet or Wi-Fi, or from a USB thumb drive.

CONS

  • Frequent misprints on certain test objects.
  • Slightly balky touch screen.

Sold By List Price Price
Amazon $449.99 $369.26 See It (Opens in a new window)
Walmart $429.99 $369.26 See It (Opens in a new window)

Read Our Monoprice Voxel 3D Printer Review

Buying Guide: The Best Cheap 3D Printers for 2022

How to Buy a Cheap 3D Printer

The biggest changes to 3D printers over the last few years have come to the cheaper models. Nowadays, many of those classic, ornery 3D-printing issues have been resolved (most of the time, anyway), even for consumer and bargain-priced 3D printers. Automatic print-bed leveling is the norm, and you can usually remove 3D-printed objects from heated and/or flexible build plates with a minimum of coaxing. And most 3D printer manufacturers have either developed and refined their own software, or have adapted an open-source printing platform such as Cura(Opens in a new window).

(Credit: Zlata Ivleva)

What separates more expensive 3D printers from cheap ones ("cheap" defined as $500 or less, for the purposes of this article) is often a select group of features. These include the build volume, the type of frame, the varieties of supported filament, the software, and the connectivity mix. Let's run through those in turn.

What's the Right Build Volume for a 3D Printer?

A 3D printer’s build volume is the maximum dimensions (HWD) of a part that it can print. (We say “a part” because a 3D-printed object can consist of multiple parts that are printed, then glued or otherwise pieced together.) While the smallest build volume of any 3D printer we have tested is 3.9 by 3.9 by 4.9 inches, we consider any build volume smaller than 6 by 6 by 6 inches to be small, any between that and 10 by 10 by 10 inches as medium, and any printer with at least one build dimension of more than 10 inches as having a large build volume.

(Credit: Molly Flores)

As a general rule, inexpensive 3D printers have small build volumes, while more expensive ones have larger build volumes. This depends in part on the type of printer. Closed-frame 3D printers—and most semi-open models, which have a rigid top, base, and sides but are open in front and, often, back—tend to have small build volumes, while open-frame printers, lacking as rigid a physical structure, often have relatively large build volumes for the price. You'll want to weigh the build volume against the kinds of objects you will print.

Should I Get an Open-Frame or Closed-Frame 3D Printer?

Which brings us to the frame "form factor" question: open-frame versus closed-frame. Closed-frame 3D printers are boxlike devices, with a rigid base, walls (with a see-through door in front), and top. Among their advantages? They muffle the operating noise, as well as reduce the odor from melted filament (which is potentially an issue with ABS plastic), and they provide some protection for people or pets who might inadvertently touch the hot extruder. A downside: They tend to have smaller build volumes than open-frame 3D printers, which have fewer (often, no) walls to constrict them.

(Credit: Zlata Ivleva)

Low-cost 3D printers include both open-frame and closed-frame models, as well as a few stereolithography printers. If a relatively large build volume is a priority, you’re likely to get more bang for the buck with an open-frame model. Open-frames do have some clear downsides by definition: They tend to be noisy, emit odors when certain plastics are melted, and provide little protection for someone who might touch the hot extruder.

(Credit: Molly Flores)

Also, recognize some potential negatives of open frames, depending on the model. Some require assembly, being essentially kits, and most require more setup care than a closed-frame printer, plus more maintenance to keep them running smoothly. Still, these very traits should not deter—and may even appeal to—hobbyists and DIY folks.

What Should I Look for in 3D Printer Software and Connectivity?

Gone are the days when tinkerers had to cobble together several different programs to get a 3D printer to run. Manufacturers either include their own 3D printing program or modify an existing platform such as the open-source Cura.

3D printing software performs three main functions: processing an object file (resizing, moving, rotating, and in some cases duplicating it), slicing it (into virtual layers, based on your chosen resolution), and printing it. These are almost universally combined into a seamless process. Some high-end printers have software that supports a wider range of settings you can tweak, but even the basic suites work at least reasonably well.

More likely to vary among the cheaper set is the array of connection options from model to model. Nearly all have a USB Type-A port to fit a thumb drive for printing from document files. Most also have a USB Type-B port for connecting directly to a computer, and some offer Wi-Fi, too (or as an alternative), while a handful let you connect via Ethernet to share the printer across a local network.

Some printers support storing 3D files on an SD or microSD card (which may also contain the printer’s system files). Most 3D printer manufacturers (even the discount ones) have a mobile app to launch and monitor print jobs, and a few provide access to cloud services from which you can print.

While high-end 3D printers tend to have an abundance of connection choices, discount models vary widely in their choices. Some are generous and some are basic, so it pays to assess what a given model offers.

What Should I Look for in Filament Support?

Filament support tends to be a key area that separates the cheaper models from the higher-end ones. (See our guide to understanding 3D printing filaments for more particulars.) Inexpensive 3D printers tend to support a limited number of plastic filament types, some of them only PLA and/or ABS.

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3D Printing: What You Need to Know

3D Printer Filaments Explained

(Credit: Molly Flores)

PLA (polylactic acid) is a biodegradable, plant-based polymer, while ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) is the same tough plastic that Legos are made from. Objects printed from ABS are durable and nontoxic, though the material can be tricky to work with. ABS can emit an acrid, unpleasant odor during printing, and the bottom corners of objects being printed with it have a tendency to curl upward a bit, especially if you are using a non-heated print bed. This can lead to unsightly prints, and/or prints prematurely pulling off the build plate, ruining them.

Many entry-level and low-price 3D printers stick exclusively to PLA. If you want to experiment with a larger variety of filaments—which include water-soluble filament, wood- and metal-laced composites, and both tough and flexible varieties—you may have to pay more, although a few discount models support a wide range of materials.

Should I Consider a 3D Printing Pen Instead?

Although they aren’t printers per se, inexpensive 3D pens are close kin to 3D printers—using the same filament types and a similar extrusion system—and we include them in the 3D printing category. Rather than tracing out a programmed pattern, you use the 3D pen much like a normal pen, except that you draw with molten plastic. You can trace a pattern or draw freehand, and even draw in three dimensions as the plastic quickly solidifies and hardens once extruded.

(Credit: 3Doodler)

Most 3D pens cost less than $100, and some cost $50 or less. At a glance, 3D pens may appear to be toys, but some artists and craftspeople have taken to them, as it is possible to make quite complicated and beautiful objects with them. If your aim in 3D printing is something closer to freehand design and free expression than computer-centric, structured, and repeatable output, you might give one a try.

So, What Is the Best Cheap 3D Printer to Buy?

Buying a budget 3D printer needn’t mean a world of sacrifice. Plenty of capable and reliable models sell at less than $500, and while they may not be as feature-rich as their more expensive cousins, there's no sense in paying for things you don’t need.

Many casual 3D-printing experimenters will be fine with printing over a USB cable or from a thumb drive, and sticking to PLA may be the best choice for a starter 3D printer. If you focus just on the features you want, you may be pleasantly surprised at what you find. Below, check out a spec breakdown of the best under-$500 3D printers we have reviewed, paralleling our picks above. Also, for a look at the broader market, see our guide to our favorite 3D printers overall.

Online calculator for calculating the cost of 3D (3D) printing

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How to calculate the cost of 3D printing

  • load the model in STL format into the calculator;
  • get a cost estimate and recommendations;
  • change the print settings or leave the default;
  • if you are ready to order 3D printing on a 3d printer, click the "Order printing" button, fill in the contact details and send an application.

test model used for illustration purposes. To calculate your model, download it. The calculation takes place automatically.

Load STL file?Click the "Load" button and select the 3d model file. This is an STL file, such as 3dmodel.stl. The calculator will automatically calculate the cost immediately. You can go directly to the calculation below or change the 3D printing settings

Characteristics of the model, recommendations and cost of 3D printing

Volume, cm 3 : - Area cm 2 : - Dimensions, mm: - Plastic consumption, cm3: - Plastic consumption, gr: -

Recommendations: -

Preliminary cost of printing: -

Set your own 3D printing settings? Press if no special print settings are required, rather than the default settings*optimum settings for price/performance ratio).

The default settings are marked with *.

Select material:? This is the material that will be used for 3D printing. Simply put, ABS is suitable for gears, housings and similar technical details, PLA is suitable for figurines and souvenirs, for the rest, see the material comparison table in the FAQ section.

ABS*ABS is strong and durable, suitable for printing housings, gears and stressed parts. We print by default.

PLAPLA has low print shrinkage, prints small fragments well, can print overhanging elements. Also, since PLA is made from corn, it can be used in food production

PET-GPET-G is stronger than ABS, less shrinkage, chemically resistant. This plastic has excellent interlaminar adhesion. Food grade plastic

CarbonCarbon is a nylon with carbon added. Very durable and wear-resistant, has low shrinkage and deformation during printing. In addition, after printing, the parts have a rough surface, on which the layering is not visible.

FlexFlex is an excellent rubber-like material. Unlike its TPU (polyurethane) counterpart, it is chemically resistant to engine oil and gasoline, and can be used as gaskets and flexible hoses in the automotive industry

PhotopolymerPhotopolymer resin is indispensable for printing small and precise details. Advantages: layer thickness up to 1 micron, no layers visible, possibility of printing transparent models, coloring before printing with coloring pigments

ABS-Like loaded and durable parts. Together with ultra-high precision printing, it is indispensable for printing small gears and machine parts

Select filling density:? This parameter characterizes how much the part will be filled with plastic. Often it is not necessary to completely fill the part, partial filling can be used to save plastic

10%

20%*

33%

50%

100%

Select layer thickness (height):? This parameter characterizes the quality. The thinner the layer thickness, the better the printing will be, but the longer the printing time and its cost

0. 05mm

0.1mm

0.15mm

0.2mm

0.25mm*

Print order


test model

Hold the left mouse button to rotate the model
Use the middle mouse button or Shift and the left mouse button to zoom
Use Alt and left mouse button to move the model

Order printing

The print operator will receive a request with a 3D model and selected print characteristics and will contact you.

Download model STL

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  • Maximum file size: 120 MB .
  • Allowed file types: stl .

Telephone

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Data

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More details

  • Maximum file size: 100 MB .
  • Allowed file types: stl obj .

FDM thermoplastic 3D printing:

  • Eco-friendly PLA strength detail smoothness flexibility environmental

    29

    23 rub/cm 3 bottles and children's toys. Due to the peculiarities of the material (detailing, printing "on weight") figurines, souvenirs and various decorative elements are well obtained from it. Well processed and smoothed. Order printing

  • Popular ABS strength detail smoothness flexibility environmental

    29

    19 rub/cm 3 Print order

    Excellent price-quality ratio, made from oil. Well suited for printing cases, instruments, automotive components, gears and mechanisms, elastic and strong. Excellent mechanical and chemical processing. Order print

  • Durable PET-G strength detail Environmental friendliness

    39

    23 rub/cm 3 Order PECH

    In PET-G. Excellent interlayer adhesion, due to which parts from this plastic will be stronger than ABS. In addition, PET-G is chemical resistant and can be used in the food industry (regular plastic bottles are made from PET). Order printing

    69 RUR/cm 3 Print order

    Carbon is a nylon with added carbon. Thanks to this combination, carbon has the super strength of nylon, but is spared its disadvantage - strong shrinkage. Carbon also has an amazing property: the surface of the part after printing is rough without visible layering, like other plastics. Therefore, it can be used not only for printing heavy-duty and loaded products, but also for decorative elements. Order print

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Service type - Not specified -3D printing3D scanning3D modelingother

Choice of plastic - Not Specified -ABS/PLAPET-GCarbonFlexFotopolimerABS-Like

Upload drawing or 3d model

File formats: obj, stl, max, doc, pdf, jpg, png, step, 3ds, zip, rar. The maximum file size is 120 MB. In the description, describe the terms of reference and the details of the task.

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  • Maximum file size: 120 MB .
  • Allowed file types: obj stl max doc pdf jpg png step 3ds zip rar .

Notes

Many potential customers of our company who are considering our professional services think that 3D printing cost of is very high today. They say that new expensive equipment, not the cheapest materials and unique technology, which is not available on every corner, lead to an automatic increase in the cost of the service provided, which has only recently begun to be popular in our country. But such reasoning goes against the fundamental concept and philosophy of our company. From the first day of opening, we set ourselves the goal of bringing 3D printing technologies to the masses, making them the maximum available for everyone. And, in our opinion, on this path we have managed to achieve great success. 3D printing cost calculator , posted on the official website of our company, will help you make sure of this.

The development of appropriate software has been one of the top priorities of our skilled programmers. We wanted to demonstrate to potential customers that 3D printing can be quite affordable in its final price. And the best way to do this is by providing the opportunity to conduct your own calculations according to individual parameters, available to each visitor to our site. To take advantage of 3D printing cost calculator , you do not have to contact our managers, go through the registration procedure on the site or send your contact information anywhere. Just go to the site, go to a special page and take step-by-step actions, the end result of which will be to get the result you need in the form of the price of the ordered service.

How exactly is the calculation of the cost of 3D printing in the calculator on our website? This procedure boils down to making three basic steps .

  1. Download model

You will need a file of a three-dimensional model of the object, which you want to print by ordering the appropriate service from our company. The file must be in STL format, which is optimal both for the printing procedure itself and for carrying out the necessary calculations.

  1. 3D printing settings

These are advanced steps for specifying individual print process parameters. In particular, here you can determine the material of the printed object, the filling density of the object and the thickness of the printed layer. Each of these parameters, set in the corresponding windows of the online 3D printing cost calculator, will largely determine the quality of the final result. This is especially important for the thickness (height) parameter of the walls of the printed part, which will be the better, the thicker and stronger its underlying layer will be.

Please note that the defined parameters are already set by default, and you will have to change them as you wish in manual mode. As for the settings shown, they are suitable for the vast majority of our customers and their orders. We are talking about the use of reliable ABS plastic, a 20% filling density of the printed object, as well as a layer thickness of 0.25 millimeters. If these parameters suit you, you can safely skip the second paragraph and proceed to the third step of using the 3D printing cost calculator.

  1. Get result

When you upload the correct 3D model file, our calculator will quickly make the necessary calculations and then display the price on your screen. At the same time, the main characteristics of the printed object will be calculated and visually indicated, and recommendations will be provided regarding the possible need to change the order parameters in order to achieve a better result. Online calculation of the cost of 3D printing in the calculator starts immediately after you upload a three-dimensional model. But when changing the parameters from the second step, the calculation is repeated, giving the corrected result.

Is the amount received through the steps described final and irrevocable? No. The print cost calculator is designed to indicate for you the approximate price of the ordered service, which can change in one direction or another when placing an order directly together with the manager of our company. But you will already know what cost to expect in order to get the result you need. We guarantee that the final price prescribed in the contract, if it differs from the one calculated in the calculator, then only by a minimum value.

The fourth step of is filling in the contact information in the appropriate fields on our website, as well as sending an application for your 3D model and individually defined characteristics of the printing process to our company's operators. Of course, you will proceed to this step only if the cost of 3D printing given by the online calculator suits you.

3D Printing Cost Calculator

Although I posted the link in the discussion of the parallel topic of comrade 3D_MPL (Cost of 3D printing. Calculator for calculating from 3D-MPL), I thought it would be better to make a separate post to get feedback.

So please make constructive (!) suggestions. I will answer any questions on the topic.

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So.

Again and again the question arises of how to calculate the payment of your labor as correctly as possible. Although some of the details seem simple, they often require a lot of brain effort, which MUST be paid. Well, the time spent too.

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Some people think that it is enough to take into account the weight of the part - I think this method is simply fundamentally wrong, because, for example, printing a vase / box with a 1mm nozzle and a 0.6mm layer will be faster than printing some highly detailed bracket in a car or a souvenir with a 0.2mm nozzle and a 0.05mm layer. So, with the same weight, the time can be many times (tens of times) longer! Yes, and draw a different bracket, you must be able to!

Moreover, we want our many hours of work to be adequately paid.

A typical example from my practice is a teapot handle.

The detail is shapeless, you don't know how to approach it in order to draw it. The result - 7 hours of modeling, 4 hours of printing, an hour of post-processing, 57 (total!) Grams of plastic. And now, imagine, a customer comes to you, 'Why is it so expensive??? It's only 57 grams!!!'. And you lost a whole day (work shift).

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So, I think that the main resource that should be paid for is time!

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And here is the table itself.

Link to Yandex Disk: https://yadi.sk/i/oy1r3v_dA-8E1w

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By the way, I update the table from time to time! I recently discovered an inaccuracy in the calculation of the cost of the material, corrected it. So follow the link and check it out.

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Some characteristics:

Time is written conveniently - in hours and minutes.

Modeling and post-processing cost per hour.

The weight and cost of the coil are written separately - no need to calculate the cost of a kilogram (for lazy people).

The so-called 'difficulty factor' is missing from the table. The complexity itself will be formed from: modeling time (mostly), printing time (necessary detailing), post-processing time (picking out supports from hard-to-reach places, painting, etc.).

Substitute the values ​​that are convenient for you. I don't insist on these. Columns 'Prices' and 'Costs'.

The white numbers in the 'Total' column are reference numbers, just for convenience.

Depreciation is calculated from the time of direct operation of the printer (more work - more wear). I take half a dollar.

The price of the first part differs from the subsequent ones only by taking into account the simulation time.

The maximum power of the printer is taken - all the same, pennies come out.

Currency - rubles. You can change to yours.

When writing the price for a reel, you must also consider the shipping cost! (In our outback, the delivery of one coil is 500 rubles!) I can add the 'delivery' item for convenience, if you want.

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