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Top 20 Free 3D Printing & 3D Printing Software
Looking for 3D printing software? We've rounded up the top 20 software tools for beginners and professionals alike.
Most slicers are free.
What is a slicer? This is a program for preparing a digital model for printing. Models for 3D printing are usually distributed in STL files. To turn an STL file into G-code (a language that a 3D printer understands), a slicer program is required. It is called a slicer because it cuts (to slice - English) a 3D model into many flat two-dimensional layers, from which a 3D printer will add a physical object.
Which slicer should I choose? In this article, we will tell you which slicer is best for 3D printing for each stage of your work. Which one is better for preparing a 3D model for printing? But what if you need to create a 3D model from scratch? And if you are only taking the first steps in 3D?
Don't be afraid: we've answered all of these questions, including the required skill level for each program and where you can download it. The great thing is that most of these programs are completely free and open source.
- Cura
- CraftWare
- 123D Catch
- 3D Slash
- TinkerCAD
- 3DTin
- Sculptris
- ViewSTL
- Netfabb Basic
- Repetier
- FreeCAD
- SketchUp
- 3D Tool
- Meshfix
- Simplify3D
- Slic3r
- Blender
- MeshLab
- Meshmixer
- OctoPrint
#1: Cura
For beginners who need a slicer to prepare STL files for 3D printing
Cura is the default slicer software for all Ultimaker 3D printers, but can be used with most others , including RepRap, Makerbot, Printrbot, Lulzbot and Witbox. The program is completely open source, its capabilities can be extended using plugins.
This program is very easy to use and allows you to manage the most important 3D printing settings through a clear interface. Start in Basic mode to quickly get up to speed and change print quality settings.
If finer control is required, switch to Expert mode.
Cura can also be used to directly control the printer, but then the printer and computer must be connected to each other.
Download: Cura
Price: Free
Systems: PC, Mac, Linux
#2: CraftWare
3D printers by the Hungarian startup CraftUnique to support their CraftBot crowdfunding machine. However, the program works with other printers.
Like Cura, CraftWare allows you to switch from "Easy" to "Expert" mode, depending on how confident you feel. It's a colorful app that features a visual G-code visualization with each function represented by a different color. But the most outstanding feature is the individual support service. As far as we know, only the paid program Simplify3D has this.
Please note, however, that this program is still in beta, so bugs may occur.
Download: CraftWare
Price: Free
Systems: PC, Mac
#3: 123D Catch
-systems, smartphones and tablets, which allows you to convert images of objects into a 3D model.
Pictures can be taken with a smartphone/tablet or digital camera.
You need many photos of an object from different angles - the more the better - after which they will be compiled into a 3D model.
123D Catch is more of a fun app than a professional 3D printing tool, but after some tambourine dancing, you can get good results, especially when paired with an STL editor like MeshLab or Meshmixer.
Price: Free
Systems: PC, Android, iOS, Windows Phone
#4: 3D Slash
and surprisingly simple, and refreshingly new. With 3D Slash, you can design 3D models using your dice skills.
You can start with a large block and, like a virtual sculptor, remove small cups from it with tools such as a hammer or drill, or start from empty space and build a model from cubes and other shapes. You can paint with flowers or use template pictures.
Other features worth mentioning are tools for creating logos and 3D text. The Logo Wizard imports an image and creates a 3D model, while the Text Wizard allows you to enter and format text, and then turn it into 3D.
Recommended!
Download: 3dslash.net
Price: Free
Systems: PC, Mac, Linux, Browser
#5: TinkerCAD
- A computer-aided design (CAD) system for 3D printing, which is a good starting point for beginners. Since its capabilities are limited compared to Blender, FreeCAD and SketchUp, many users switch to more powerful tools after some time.
As in 3D Slash, here you can build models from basic shapes. At the same time, unlike 3D Slash, TinkerCAD allows you to create vector shapes in 2D and convert them into three-dimensional models.
Come in: Autodesk TinkerCAD
Price: Free
Systems: Browser
#6: 3DTin
For beginners who want to create 3D printable models
another easy and intuitive online tool choice for beginners in 3D modeling. All you need is a Chrome or Firefox browser with WebGL enabled.
Choose from a huge library of 3D shapes and add them to your sketch.
All sketches are stored in the cloud, access to them is free if you honor the Creative Commons license. Everything can be exported to STL or OBJ formats.
Enter: 3DTin
Price: Free
Systems: Browser
#7: Sculptris
For beginners who want to create 3D printable models
clay. This is a fantastic 3D modeling program if figurines are your main task. For example, you can make a bust of your favorite video game or comic book character. Sculptris is completely free and bills itself as a stepping stone to the more complex (and expensive) ZBrush tool.
Download: Pixologic Sculptris
Price: Free
Systems: PC, Mac
#8: ViewSTL
For beginners who want to view STL files
ViewSTL is the easiest way to view STL files . Simply open a web page and drag the STL onto the dotted box.
The STL online viewer allows you to display the model in one of three views: flat shading (for a quick view), smooth shading (for a high-quality image), and wireframe.
Enter: ViewSTL
Price: Free
Systems: Browser
#9: Netfabb Basic
some nice features that allow you to analyze, "repair" and edit STL files before moving on to the model cutting stage.
A good choice if you need more than just a slicer and want to be able to quickly fix STL files without having to learn programs like MeshLab or Meshmixer.
Don't let the 'Basic' in the title fool you, Netfabb Basic is actually a very powerful 3D printing tool. It's "basic" only in the sense that it doesn't cost €1,500 like Netfabb Professional!
Download: netfabb.de
Price: Free
Systems: PC, Mac, Linux
No. 10: Repetier
For advanced to prepare STL files for 3D printing
9002 the next level of 3D printer slicer software, but if you want to stay open source, you should look into Repetier. It is the great grandfather of 3D printing software and a favorite of the RepRap community. To date, the program is moving by leaps and bounds from the level for beginners to advanced users.
Packaged in an all-in-one configuration, it supports up to 16 extruders, multi-slicing via plug-ins, and virtually every fusing 3D printer on the market. Get ready to tinker!
What's more, Repetier Host works remotely via Repetier Server, so that the 3D printer can be controlled via a browser, tablet or smartphone.
Download: Repetier
Price: Free
Systems: PC, Mac, Linux
#11: FreeCAD
The program is a great option for developing your design skills. More technically, this parametric 3D modeling program allows you to easily change the project by rolling back through the history of the model and editing the parameters.
Download: freecadweb.org
Price: Free
Systems: PC, Mac, Linux
#12: SketchUp
For beginners who want to create 3D printable models
SketchUp is the perfect combination of simplicity and the perfect combination functionality, with a user-friendly interface and a relatively flat learning curve (i.
e., as experience grows with the time spent), the ideal program for developing three-dimensional models.
The Make SketchUp version is free and will include everything you need for 3D modeling if you also download and install the free STL exporter. There is also a professional edition for architects, interior designers and engineers.
Download: sketchup.com
Price: Free (SketchUp Make), $695 (SketchUp Pro)
Systems: PC, Mac, Linux
#13: 3D-Tool Free Viewer
view and validate STL files
3D-Tool Free Viewer is a sophisticated tool that, among other things, allows you to check the structural integrity and printability of your file. With the Cross-Section function, for example, you can look at the model from the inside and check the wall thickness. Very useful if you want to check your STL file for killer errors before printing.
Download: 3D-Tool
Price: Free
Systems: PC
#14: Meshfix
your model for errors.
Price: Free
Systems: Browser
#15: Simplify3D
For professionals to prepare STL files for 3D printing print. A flexible algorithm checks the model for problems, fixes them, shows a preview of the printing process (ideal for identifying potential problems), and then slices it.
This slicer offers the best infill pattern options in the competition. For models that require supports, Simplify3D will create the appropriate structures on its own and give you full control over their placement. For printers with a dual extruder, when printing with different materials, the Dual Extrusion wizard will help, as a result of which, for example, it will be easier to remove the dissolving filament.
Simplify3D supports 90% of today's commercially available desktop 3D printers and is compatible with Marlin, Sprinter, Repetier, XYZprinting, FlashForge, Sailfish and MakerBot firmware. Simplify3D can also be used to directly control the printer, but then the printer and computer must be connected to each other.
Download: simplify3d.com
Price: $149
Systems: PC, Mac, Linux
#16: Slic3r
source code, which has a reputation as a carrier of super new functionality, which you will not find anywhere else. The current version of the program is able to show the model from multiple angles, so that the user gets a better preview experience.
There's also an incredible 3D honeycomb infill, the first of its kind that can extend over multiple layers rather than repeating itself like a stamp. This significantly increases the strength of the internal filling of the model and the final printout.
Another option is direct integration with Octoprint. Once the files on the user's desktop are sliced, they can be directly uploaded to Octoprint with one click.
Download: Slic3r
Price: Free
Systems: PC, Mac, Linux
#17: Blender
For professionals who want to create 3D printable models
Blender is a popular computer-aided design (CAD) system with a steep learning curve.
Not at all the best choice for beginners, but what you need if you are quite experienced and need something more complex for modeling and printing.
In short, Blender is one of the most powerful tools out there. Its community is always ready to help, there are a lot of educational materials. It's also open source, so enthusiasts often write extensions to make it even better and more powerful.
Download: blender.org
Price: Free
Systems: PC, Mac, Linux
#18: MeshLab
For professionals to prepare STL files for 3D printing
MeshLab - advanced editor. It allows you to remove parts of a 3D model, merge two models into one, patch holes. If you need a program to modify models for 3D printing or some kind of "repair" work, MeshLab is the right choice.
Price: Free
Systems: PC, Mac, Linux
#19: Meshmixer
For professionals to prepare STL files for 3D printing files. It's especially good for identifying potential problems and fixing them automatically.
For example, it will show paper-thin walls that can lead to problems with 3D printing. Meshmixer is part of the Autodesk family of 3D printer software, so it should work well with tools like TinkerCAD.
Price: Free
Systems: PC, Mac
#20: OctoPrint
start, pause or interrupt 3D print jobs. Combined with Wi-Fi capable devices, it makes for a great monitor for remotely monitoring the 3D printing process.
Octoprint understands the G-codes of almost all 3D printers and slicers and includes a gCodeVisualizer to visualize this code before or during printing.
If you want to work away from your 3D printer and control it remotely, Octoprint is the best you can find.
Download: octoprint.org
Price: Free
Systems: PC, Mac, Linux
Source
REC Wiki » Lithophany on a 3D printer: how to make translucent images of photographs
Lithophany is an artistic technique or creation drawings, for example to decorate unique lamps.
3D printing technologies are great for artisanal production of such images, called lithophanes. We'll tell you how it's done.
Turning photographs or drawings into three-dimensional, embossed images with a 3D printer is already a great way to create souvenirs and mementos, but even more impressive results can be achieved with lithophany. Lithophanes are images on translucent materials that are clearly visible to the eye when illuminated from the back. Images are formed precisely due to relief: the thinner the material, the better light penetrates through it, and vice versa. In this article, we will see how you can turn existing 2D images, such as photographs, into 3D printed lithophanes.
Source images
There are two simple rules for source files. First, the higher the contrast, the better. Secondly, try to avoid photos with an abundance of background details, as they will most likely turn into indistinguishable noise and reduce the quality of the lithophane - make the main image less clear.
There are many programs for converting photographs into relief images suitable for 3D printing, but the principle is always the same: first, the program selects the main area and embosses, then adds a border, and then converts the image into a 3D model and exports the finished file in STL format. It remains to take the file, prepare a 3D model in a convenient slicer and print the lithophane. Interestingly, some slicers, such as Cura, have the necessary functionality themselves, so you can convert an image and prepare a 3D model for printing in one program. Below we consider three options for all occasions.
Method #1: Using a slicer
This method has certain advantages and disadvantages. Cura is one of the most popular slicers, the process of creating 3D lithophane models in Cure is fast and simple, but on the other hand, there are some fine settings available in specialized programs and full-fledged 3D editors. This option can be considered optimal for novice users.
Of course, the first step is to download the original image to the computer.
Launch Cura, then import the image into the slicer by selecting Open File(s)… from the File menu. A pop-up window will appear with settings that determine how the image will look when 3D printed.
Next we work with the settings:
Height ( Height ) is actually the thickness of the lithophane, since the model will be created flat. The thickness can be different, this indicator depends primarily on the transparency of the plastic used for 3D printing. The optimal thickness will have to be selected empirically, but a thickness of no more than 5 mm can be used as a starting point.
Base (Base) is what the image will be printed on, that is, the back side of the lithophane. The thickness of the base will be added to the thickness of the image itself.
Width ( Width ) and depth (Depth) — model area parameters.
Since the model is displayed flat, these two parameters actually determine the width and length.
Contrast Contrast ) : after setting the dimensions of the model, you need to decide on the contrast. Since the output will be a monochrome image, at this stage it is necessary to decide whether the litophane will be a negative or positive display of the original image. Everything is simple here: the thicker the sections (that is, the higher the relief), the darker they will be in the light. Accordingly, if you choose "Darker is higher" (Darker is higher), you will get a positive, and if vice versa, then the negative of the original photo.
Color model ( Color Model ) : There are two choices here - Linear and Translucent. In principle, both models work, but first try the translucent one: judging by the reviews, it gives the best results.
Smoothing (Smoothing) : The higher the smoothing, the smoother but less clear the image will be.
After choosing the settings, Cura converts the image into a 3D model, then you can simply "slice" the file and save the G-code. Don't rush to type until you've read the tips at the end of the article. For now, just save the STL file with the 3D model.
Method #2: Using 3D Modeling Software
Computer-aided design and graphics editors are also good for creating lithophanes: for example, some enthusiasts use Blender, but Photoshop is the most capable and convenient option. Modern versions of Photoshop have tools for converting 2D images to 3D, which is exactly what we need.
First, add the Make Lithophane plugin to Photoshop if you don't already have it.
Open the original image in Photoshop, then open the Window menu and select Actions (or just press Alt + F9). Select the appropriate action in the Make Lithophane folder and click Make.
Next, Photoshop will do a number of things, such as adding texture maps, after which you will see the finished bump image.
Keep in mind that the relief, and therefore the sharpness, will depend on the contrast of the original image.
The finished 3D image must be exported in STL format. To do this, select 3D Print Settings from the 3D menu and the Properties window will open on the right.
In the 3D Print Settings tab, select Local, then change Printer to Export STL. Select millimeters and a fine level of detail, specify the required dimensions, and then click on the Start Print button to export the file.
Method #3: Using Special Programs
There are many programs designed specifically for converting images into 3D models and then STL files. The most popular are ItsLitho, Lithophane Maker and 3DP Rocks. They all work in much the same way, so let's look at the process using the last one as an example.
Go to the 3DP Rocks website.
Select the Images tab and fill in the original image.
When you return to the Model tab, you will see that the model is almost ready.
At this stage, you can choose different forms.
Play around in the Settings menu with the settings for dimensions, maximum and minimum thickness, borders and curvature in the Settings menu until you get the desired result, and then click "Download" (Download) in the Model tab. You now have an STL file ready to be imported into your slicer.
Now you can start 3D printing, but before that you need to figure out how best to do it.
3D Resin Printing
Stereolithographic 3D printers are the easiest to use because these systems are famous for their high resolution, making it easy to get crisp lithophane.
When working with photopolymer 3D printers, it is customary to print models at an angle to reduce the load on fragile layers, but for the sake of maximum quality, we would recommend printing the model flat, even if it is more risky and takes longer. If the image is too large, you will have to print vertically: the quality will be slightly worse, but the model will not tear off, and after 3D printing it will be easier to separate it from the platform.
