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What's the Best Digital Caliper For 3D Printing? Top 3 Picks
5/5 - (51 votes)
When you are into digital printing, a caliper is a mandatory tool for your work.
If you don’t want to end up with the wrong measurement when 3d printing, you need the best quality digital caliper for 3d printing.
That’s what this article is about. We’ll introduce you to the best options available in the market, so you don’t end up with the wrong one. If you have a preference outside our list, you can use our buying guide to determine whether the caliper you like fulfills all the criteria or not.
In case you don’t want to go through the whole review, the best among these three calipers is the Neiko 01407A Digital Caliper. It’s a six-inch digital caliper with a +/-0.001” accuracy level.
If you’re curious about this caliper’s detail review, we recommend you keep reading. Besides, the other two calipers on our list are also something you don’t want to miss out on. So, let’s get started.
3 Best Digital Caliper For 3D Printing Reviews in 2022We’ve considered all essential attributes a caliper needs to be the best for 3d printing and chose the following three as our top choices.
Once you read their details, you’ll know why they’re specifically suitable for 3d printing.
Check Latest Price On Amazon
The first thing you will love about the Neiko caliper is how affordable the device is. You won’t have to spend a fortune to get this caliper. That makes it one of the best digital calipers for 3d printing beginners.
However, don’t doubt its capability for a moment just because it is affordable. There are multiple high-end calipers that don’t offer half the feature this one comes with. For instance, let’s look at the measurement units.
You’ll notice that many digital calipers only offer you mm and inch. If you decide to get this one from Neiko, you’re also getting a fractional measurement system, which is a mandatory feature for many people.
If you move on to the accuracy level, you’re getting 0.02 mm of accuracy level, which is fine for most measurements.
However, if you’re searching for a more precise caliper, you’ll have to think of other options that cost a lot more than this one.
You can trust this caliper to be consistent when it comes to measuring various objects. It can measure step and depth along with inside and outside measurements. Another fascinating thing is the auto-shutoff feature. If you’re not used to turning off your caliper after each use, you can rely on this system to save your battery life.
The caliper is made of high-quality stainless steel, ensuring premium smoothness to the slide. In addition, you’re getting a case and the battery you need to operate the caliper.
Pros
- The auto-shutoff system saves battery life
- Can measure outside and inside diameter, as well as step and depth
- Stainless steel material and smooth operation
- Large display for convenient visualization
Cons
- The buttons feature rubber as their material which can be bothersome
The buttons could have been better.
But that’s not a deal-breaker. If you can deal with the buttons, it’s one of the perfect digital calipers for 3d printing. If you want more details about the caliper, click here.
Check Latest Price On Amazon
Another stunning caliper made of stainless steel is this one from Kynup. You can feel its premium-grade materials by the touch. However, the features are not limited to the material.
You can change your preferred unit of measurement within seconds. One push of the button will change the unit between mm, inch, and fraction. The same goes for zeroing the caliper. No matter what position the caliper is in, you can zero it with one click.
Let’s talk about an underrated feature. The auto-off feature makes Kynup better. If you’re just switching from dial to digital caliper, you’ll surely forget to turn off the caliper after using it. With this one, you won’t have to worry about it because the caliper will shut itself off when not in use.
Unlike many other calipers that only feature inside and outside diameter measurements, this one can also measure the step and depth of an object. Besides, the six inches range allows it to measure various objects with accuracy.
If you take a look at the reviews of this caliper, you’ll notice that most users are happy with their purchase. Even though the battery replacement requires opening a screw, the brand provides the screwdriver along with the caliper for your convenience.
The frame comes with a lock so that you never lose a measurement again. In addition, the caliper is dust and waterproof. What else can you expect from a caliper within this price range?
Pros
- Versatile use with outside, inside, step, and depth measurement
- Turns off automatically when not in use and saves battery
- Switch between measurement units according to preference
- Dust and water-resistant for convenience
Cons
- Requires removing a screw when replacing batteries
You won’t find any flaw in this caliper unless you can’t stand removing a screw when replacing batteries.
If you’re curious to know more about this caliper’s features and user reviews, don’t forget to click here.
Check Latest Price On Amazon
Another affordable option you can go for is the iGaging digital caliper. This one comes with an IP54 rating, which means it’s dust, oil, and water-splash resistant. However, that’s not the only specialty you’re getting from this caliper.
The frame is made of stainless steel that features a clear and large LCD. You can see the readings without any difficulties. Besides, the buttons on display will allow you to change the unit of measurement pretty easily.
The caliper can show you readings in mm, inch, and fraction, depending on your preference. The caliper is great for someone who seeks fractional measurement in their device. Any woodworker, jeweler, hobbyist, or automotive enthusiast will be fascinated by this caliper.
Another plus side is the affordable price. If you’re a beginner in using a digital caliper, you can start out with this one because it doesn’t require a higher budget. Besides, you’re getting an accuracy level of +/-0.001” and a measurement range of 6 inches.
Some users have complained about the battery compartment, though. A few found it difficult to open the battery compartment. However, the quick response from the manufacturer solved their issues.
All in all, this is one of the best digital calipers for 3d printing you can find on the market. At least the majority of the user reviews will tell you so.
Pros
- Three units of measurement for different needs
- Easily readable large display
- Oil, dust, and water-splash resistant
- Hardened stainless steel body with a precision finish
Cons
- The battery compartment can be a bit difficult to open
If you’re searching for the perfect digital caliper as your 3d printing companion, look no further than this one from iGaging.
Click here to know more about this digital caliper.
So, what attributes do you consider essential when selecting the best quality digital caliper for 3d printing? If you have no idea what to look for, allow us to walk you through a buying guide.
Accuracy Level
The first thing you should concern yourself with is the accuracy level. If we’re talking about 3d printing, you should seek at least an accuracy level of 0.02 mm or +/-0.001”. If you want a higher level of accuracy, you’ll have to increase your budget.
The more precise your caliper becomes, the pricier it’ll become.
Ease Of Use
Some calipers are tough to operate. Consider a caliper that would be easy to operate, no matter the level of experience. Dial calipers are comparatively difficult to interpret. Digital calipers always enjoy an advantage compared to dial calipers.
The caliper should also be smooth. If the slide is rough, using it won’t be comfortable. Make sure the material is of high quality, and the thumbscrew is ergonomic.
Auto-Shutoff System
Many people don’t consider this feature a must-have, but it’s one of the essential attributes of a caliper. Users often don’t bother turning off their calipers between uses, which can lead to early battery drainage.
Increasing the battery life and improving caliper efficiency, it’s a crucial feature of a caliper. However, remember that removing the battery is always a great idea if you’re storing the caliper for a long time. Keeping the battery inside the caliper can damage the battery and the caliper.
Measurement Range
Make sure your caliper has a measurement range of at least 6 inches. You can get some really affordable options with six-inch calipers. Besides, if you’re considering a caliper for 3d printing, you won’t need any more range than this.
However, if you want your caliper to be more versatile, you can consider a larger device. There are plenty of digital calipers that feature an eight-inch range and come within budget.
Versatility
Many calipers only feature inside and outside diameter measurements. However, you can also get step and depth measurement gauges in affordable digital calipers. So, spend your money wisely and choose a caliper that can measure all four dimensions of different objects.
This way, your caliper doesn’t become limited to 3d printing. If you want, you can use it for other purposes too.
Material
The most suitable material for digital caliper is high-quality stainless steel. It feels smooth to slide and is durable in nature. So, instead of going for plastic, try sticking to stainless steel, even if it costs a few bucks extra.
Some calipers feature a polish on their frame, which makes them water and dust-resistant.
If that’s something you would be interested in, don’t forget to check the specs.
Units Of Measurement
Some digital calipers come with only metric and imperial measurement systems, whereas some also feature fractions. Even though it depends on your preference and comfort, we recommend selecting a caliper that features all three of them.
On digital calipers, it’s convenient to switch between units. You can click a button, and the unit changes within moments.
User Reviews
You’re getting all the specifications from the manufacturer’s website, which hardly contains any negative sides. The most reliable source you can use is the user review section of a product. So, don’t forget to go through the reviews if you have doubts about a caliper’s accuracy, consistency, and quality.
The reviews can also tell you about features the manufacturer didn’t mention on the website. Sometimes the shortage of information can influence the decision.
User reviews can make you catch up on the info you’re missing.
Frequently Asked Questions on “Digital Caliper for 3D Printing”Alternative Product suggestion by our expart team is Mitutoyo 500-196-30 Advanced Onsite Sensor (AOS) digital caliper.
You may read a full review about mitutoyo digital caliper from our blog.
What are the best 3d printer calipers, and where do I get them?
Even though there are a lot of high-quality digital calipers, the best ones are Neiko digital caliper, Kynup digital caliper, and digital caliper. We’ve considered price, accuracy level, measurement range, material, and additional features while selecting these three options. All of these calipers are available on Amazon at an affordable price range. You can also find them in a shop, but they may cost you more.
Do I need a caliper for 3d printing?
The answer entirely depends on your printing pattern. If you’re into functional printing, then precise measurement is the key.
When the measurement needs to be correct to the millimeter, you certainly need a digital caliper. However, if you’re into other printings like toys, penholders, etc., then the caliper isn’t a mandatory tool for you.
Each caliper we reviewed deserves the spot as the best digital caliper for 3d printing. However, if you’re thinking about the most cost-effective option, we recommend going for the Neiko digital caliper. If you don’t mind increasing your budget a bit, the Kynup is also an excellent choice for 3d printing.
Note that there are more precise and accurate calipers than the ones we reviewed, but they’ll cost you a lot more than these. However, for 3d printing, these will do more than fine.
3D Printing Caliper Structures - Complete Guide
An Easier Approach to Caliper Structures
Caliper Structures for 3D Printing - The Complete Guide
Everything you need to know about caliper structures used in 3D printing.
Feel free to use overhangs and bridges in your models!
Caliper structures: If you have a lot of experience with FDM 3D printing (FDM - deposition layer modeling), you may have found yourself in situations a couple of times in which you had to use such structures. An FDM 3D printer creates a 3D object by sequentially applying layers of thermoplastic materials. In this case, each new layer rests on the layer below it. If the model has an overhang that is not supported from below, it will likely sink or even fall off, and you will need to print additional support structures to ensure successful printing.
Caliper structures are seen as a necessary evil in 3D printing. On the one hand, they are absolutely necessary for models with dangerous overhangs or bridges. On the other hand, the cost of materials rises, finishing work is added, and there is a risk of damage to the surface of the model. Therefore, proper application of printed caliper structures is a very important aspect of 3D printing complex models.
Caliper structures in 3D printing: 3 easy steps to success
In this article, we will cover everything you need to know about support structures used in 3D printing. Detailed explanations are provided later in the text.
WHEN DO YOU NEED THEM?
In general, when a model has an unsupported overhang or bridge, caliper structures may be required to enable 3D printing. The figure below shows overhangs and bridges using the letters Y, H and T.
A classic example of overhangs and bridges using the letters Y, H and T.
Support structures are not required for all overhangs - 45 degree rule
Support structures are not required for all overhangs. As a general rule of thumb, if the overhang slopes less than 45 degrees from vertical, it can be printed without the use of caliper structures.
Support structures are required for overhangs greater than 45 degrees from vertical.
3D printers provide a slight (barely noticeable) horizontal displacement between successive layers, i.
e., the applied layer is placed on the previous one with a slight displacement. This ensures that overhangs are printed that do not deviate too much from the vertical. Anything less than 45 degrees can be supported by previous layers, and anything above that number can't. A value of forty-five degrees is considered a break line.
This statement is best supported by the examples of the letters Y and T. The two slanted parts of the letter Y have an angle of less than 45 degrees with respect to the vertical. Therefore, if necessary, the letter Y can be printed without using any caliper structures performed by 3D printing.
For overhangs in the letter Y, printing of support structures is not required. But for overhangs in the letter T - yes. (source: 3DHubs online production platform)
On the other hand, the protruding parts of the T are at an angle of 90 degrees from vertical. Thus, in this case, for the 3D printing of the letter T, the use of support structures is a necessary condition, otherwise the result will be a nightmare (see the figure below).
Without caliper structures, it is not possible to properly print the letter T (source: 3DHubs online manufacturing platform)
2
Not all bridges need supports - the 5 mm rule.
As with overhangs, supports are not required for all bridges. A rule of thumb that has been proven in practice is that if the bridge length is less than 5 mm, the printer is able to print it without the need for a caliper structure.
This uses the bridging printing method, in which the printer stretches the hot material over short distances and prints it with minimal sag.
However, if the bridge length is greater than 5 mm, this method does not work. In this case, it is necessary to additionally print support structures.
Bridges longer than 5 mm cannot be printed without support structures. Notice how they warp and deform.
TESTING PRINTER'S ABILITY TO PRINT OVERHEADS WITHOUT SUPPORT
The rule of thumb that if an overhang slopes less than 45 degrees from vertical, it can be printed without the use of support structures is just a rule of thumb.
Much depends on the printer, its condition and the materials used. Printers that are in poor condition may not print 35 or 40 degree overhangs from vertical.
Before printing a model with overhangs, it is recommended that you evaluate the printer's ability to print small overhangs.
This is easy to do. Simply download the Massive Overhang Test print model from the Thingiverse website and print it. This model presents overhangs from 20 to 70 degrees in 5-degree increments.
Overhang print test model from Thingiverse website (Source: Thingiverse website)
Determine the angle at which the printer starts to print abnormally. This is the maximum overhang angle at which the printer can print without support. It is recommended to remember it for making further decisions on the need to use support structures.
DISADVANTAGES
Like many things in life, the use of support structures in 3D printing has certain weaknesses.
There are several of them, so let's look at them.
1
Increased material costs
Support structures require additional materials. In this case, these designs after printing must be removed and thrown into waste.
When using 3D printing at the manufacturing level, the focus may be on model costs. If this is your hobby and you are limited in funds, then, for sure, this is also not indifferent to you.
3D printing of support structures means an obvious additional cost per model. Caliper structures require material that is subsequently removed and discarded, so any 3D caliper structures go to waste, which increases the cost of the printed product.
2
Print time increase
3D printing of support structures also increases print time as the printer prints additional volumes. It is quite obvious that the additional time spent depends on the number and height of the support structures.
3
Additional finishing
Additional finishing is required when printing support structures. (source: Formlabs)
3D printed support structures are not part of the model. They are used as a support for parts of the model during printing. This means that at the end of printing, there is an additional need to remove these structures before the model is ready for use.
In a production setting, extra work means additional costs for the model.
4
Risk of product damage
Left: Printing with supports. Middle: Removal of calipers with product damage. Right: Removal of calipers without significant damage to the product. (source: 3DHubs online manufacturing platform)
3D caliper structures come into contact with the walls of products and often stick to them. They are the only means of providing support under overhangs and bridges. If care is not taken when removing 3D caliper structures, defects may remain on the surface of the product.
In the worst case, part of the model may break off along with the 3D support structure.
In general, there are significant drawbacks when using support structures. Therefore, here is another tried and tested rule: minimize the use of 3D support structures and add them only when necessary . The following sections will explore the application of this principle, starting directly from the computer-aided design (CAD) stage and ending with printing.
GEOMETRY OF THE CALIPER STRUCTURE
Two types of support structures are commonly used: tree-like ("tree") and linear/"accordion".
Tree calipers
The tree caliper is a tree structure that serves as a support for the overhangs of the model. Calipers of this type only come into contact with the overhang at certain points.
3D tree supports (source: Flashforge)
The advantage of using a 3D tree support is that it can be removed more easily without significant damage to the underside of the overhang.
However, it should be noted that this type of caliper is only suitable for non-flat overhangs, such as the tip of the nose, toe or arch. For flat overhangs, it does not provide sufficient stability.
Linear support or "accordion"
This is the most commonly used type of support in 3D printing. It consists of vertical posts that are in contact with the overhang over the entire surface. This type of caliper is suitable for any overhangs and bridges. However, it is more difficult to remove without damaging the surface of the model.
Linear 3D support structures (Source: Flashforge)0007
Tear-off 3D support structures
Single-extruder printers use tear-off support structures by default.
If you have one extruder, you have to use the same material to 3D print the support structures that is used to print the model. Of course, the density of the caliper structures can be adjusted to be much lower than the density of the model, but this is the only remedy that can be applied to the material of the caliper.
Since the model and 3D caliper structures are made from the same material, the only way to separate them is to either break off the caliper by hand or carefully cut it off with a knife.
These removal methods carry a high risk of damage to the model, and during removal, you must use the proper methods and be extremely vigilant and careful.
2
Dissolvable 3D calipers
Dissolvable calipers are easier to remove, but requires a printer with two extruders.
If you have a dual extruder printer, you have a better choice. You can load one extruder with PLA for model printing and the other with water soluble material such as PVA or limonene soluble material such as HIPS (polystyrene) for caliper structure printing. At the end of printing, it is enough to simply remove the support structure by washing off by immersing the model in water or limonene.
This removal method reduces the risk of model damage and simplifies finishing, making it ideal for complex prints.
HOW TO REMOVE 3D SUPPORT STRUCTURES
Because 3D caliper structures are difficult to remove and can damage the model, here are some tried and tested techniques for removing them properly.
- First you need to determine which support structures are completely open and can be easily reached with your fingers. Try prying these calipers off with your fingers. Exercise caution. Extreme caution. If this operation is performed correctly, most caliper structures should come off without much effort.
- Then take a tool to remove 3D support structures that are difficult to reach. There are many opinions about which tools are best. You can use needle-nose pliers, a spatula, or a utility knife. You can also use all these tools together.
- When using a knife or scraper, it is a good idea to heat up the model or blade. This contributes to better delamination of the 3D support structures. A small butane torch will help, but care must be taken not to damage the model.
- Handle utility knives with care as they are very sharp.
- Sandpaper is also excellent for removal. When wet grinding with fine-grained sandpaper (from 220 to 1200), not only the removal of 3D caliper structures is performed, but also the model is polished. For best results, it is recommended to spray the part with water and sand in smooth, light strokes until the desired surface finish is obtained.
Wet sanding can be used to remove residual 3D caliper structures and smooth the surface of the model (source: Formlabs) scratches and surface defects. Nail polish is great for partially or completely covering these marks.
If you are interested in how other users solve this problem, it is recommended to view the web page on the best ways to remove supports, calipers and filament structures - Best ways to remove foundations, caliper structures and other external filaments.
MINIMIZING 3D CALIPER STRUCTURES WITH SMART DESIGN
Integrating 3D caliper structures into the model
One way to avoid the use of caliper structures in 3D printing is to use additional elements in the model that perform a similar function.
Sculptors have been using this technique for centuries. As an example, consider the sculpture "Venus the Conqueror" by Antonio Canova.
"Venus the Conqueror", sculptor Antonio Canova
Here the right arm is an overhang but rests on pillows. The left leg is another overhang, but here the folds of the toga serve as a support.
The next example is the Guardian model by @fantasygraph. As a support for the legs and buttocks of the model, he guessed to use a dress flowing in folds. The left hand rests on the spear lowered down.
The Guardian by @fantasygraph is a prime example of how support structures can be integrated into a model.
Integrating 3D support structures into a design is more art than science. It is necessary to find such elements that fit into the overall design and at the same time can be a support for overhangs or bridges. If done correctly, the model will be more beautiful and the printing process will be freed from unnecessary 3D caliper structures, which means saving time, money and labor.
Bevels
Another way to get rid of 3D support structures is to use bevels. With proper chamfering, dangerous overhangs can be turned into innocuous structures with angles less than 45 degrees.
For example, if you have a sloping or folded edge, you can replace it with an edge with an angle that does not require supports. Such an angular pattern is called a bevel.
Left: Gradually rounded edge that requires supports. Right: A beveled edge that can be printed without 3D caliper structures (source: Rigid Ink)
Similarly, if your model has a hole, you can turn it into a beveled teardrop hole. For the most part, this won't ruin the overall aesthetic of the model, but will help reduce the amount of 3D support structures needed to print the model.
Beveled hole (source: Markforged)
MINIMIZING 3D SUPPORT STRUCTURES BY REORIENTATION
. For example, it is much better to print the open box shown below with the open side up.
You can often minimize the use of 3D support structures by properly positioning the model on the build plate (source: Markforged)
Below is a more non-trivial example, again from designer @fantasygraph. This is a model of a man with a horizontally outstretched arm pointing forward and to infinity.
If you print the model as is, you will need to support the left hand. And it, in fact, is a long overhang with an angle of 90 degrees.
Removing the supports will most likely leave imperfections on the underside of the arm. To avoid this, you can rotate the whole model by 45 degrees and simply add a support for its base. In any case, the quality of the basis of the model does not really matter. Thus, it is possible to print a model with fewer 3D caliper structures and save the left hand from damage.
A simple and ingenious solution. Maybe you can do it too?
PRINTING OVERHEADS AND BRIDGES WITHOUT 3D SUPPORT STRUCTURES
In the previous sections, attention was drawn to the fact that, if possible, you should try to use as little 3D support structures as possible.
However, this means that it will often be possible to find yourself in a difficult situation in which the risk of model instability is inevitable. To minimize these risks, here are a few general tips.
- Make sure the 3D printer is in optimal condition.
- Cool the printed material as quickly as possible. The longer the material cools, the more likely it is that the bridge or overhang will warp or fall off. To do this, it is necessary to maximize the cooling capacity of the layers by cooling fans. Also, reduce the print temperature to the lowest possible.
- Reducing the print speed also speeds up cooling and is especially helpful when printing longer bridges and complex overhangs.
- It is recommended to print with the minimum layer thickness. Less layer thickness means less weight applied with each pass of the print head. In addition, it contributes to faster cooling of the material.
SUPPORT STRUCTURE SETTINGS IN CURA PROGRAM
Sometimes you simply cannot do without 3D support structures.
But even in this case, every effort must be made to ensure the stability of the 3D support structures, so that they do not consume a lot of material, they are easily removed and do not damage the surface of the model.
The layering program has many additional functions for fine tuning support structures. Most layering programs can automatically create calipers, but they also have a manual mode that lets you add or remove calipers anywhere. In addition, there are many different settings in the layering control program to control the following aspects of caliper structures.
- Location of 3D supports
- Strength of 3D supports
- Easy removal after printing
- Damage to the printed surface
In this article, we decided to focus on Cura, one of the most popular free layering software.
Cura has a number of settings related to support structures located in the Support section of the Custom Settings menu. With the right settings for these settings, you can create 3D support structures that meet most basic requirements.
1
Enable automatic creation of 3D support structures for unstable models
Let's start from the beginning. How can I check if a model needs additional supports?
Cura makes this easy. Immediately after importing the model into Cura and placing it on the virtual working base, you should pay attention to the areas colored in red. These are the areas where Cura found instability. It should be noted that, possibly, areas without supports will not be visible until the camera is rotated.
If the bottom of the part is painted red where the model touches the work base, don't worry that there is no support underneath. This problem will be solved by a working base. Small red areas at the top of holes or between two structures are called bridges and Cura will process them automatically.
You should start to worry if there are other parts highlighted in red. First you need to activate the automatic creation of support structures in order to ensure that these red areas are successfully printed.
To do this, just check the Generate Support checkbox in the Support section.
So, the function of automatic creation of support structures is activated, but no external changes to the model occur. The reason is that Cura does not show support structures in the default Solid view. To view the generated 3D support structures, you must change the view mode to Layer View (View layers). The material of the calipers (lines and volume) will be displayed in turquoise. You need to move the layer slider up and down to see where the support is added to the model.
2
Selecting a tree or linear support
Tree support structures in Cura
Cura creates 3D linear support structures by default. Version 3.2 beta of Cura provides the option to use tree supports instead of the default linear ones.
3
3D Support Structure Position Control
Two types of support structure positioning in Cura: Everywhere and Touching Build plate
When activating the option to create support structures, the Placement item automatically appears in the Support section.
The Placement option provides the ability to control the approximate location of support structures. There are two options: Everywhere and Touching Build plate. The Everywhere option is selected by default.
When the Everywhere option is selected, Cura 3D tries to create support structures where they are needed. This means that not only 3D caliper structures will be created that will be placed on the working base, but also caliper structures that will be based on the details of the model. This is the rational choice for most cases, as it guarantees the necessary support for all unstable areas.
However, if you select the Everywhere option for very complex models, the model may be completely covered with the material used for the calipers. If there is no such intention, you just need to set the Touching Build plate option in the Placement settings. This option will create 3D caliper structures under the hanging parts of the model only between the working base and the model.
4
The Enable Support Roof option can improve the surface finish of overhangs, but will incur some additional cost.
Since the overhang of the model is always printed on top of the 3D support structures, the optimal surface finish of the parts is not always guaranteed. And in this case, the hidden setting Enable Support Roof can help.
The arch of the support is a dense layer in the upper part of the caliper structure, which does not degrade the surface quality of the overhangs too much. When this option is activated in the Cura 3D program, by checking the appropriate box, a better quality finish is obtained. But this improvement comes at a cost, as removing the caliper structures becomes more difficult than usual when choosing this option. This option is only recommended if the surface quality of the overhang is important to the finished part itself.
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Prevent 3D support structures from damaging the outer walls of the model by using the Support X/Y Distance setting
Sometimes 3D support structures are too close to the outer wall and leave traces on the outer surface of the model.
This can be avoided by using the hidden Support X/Y Distance setting in the Support section.
In Cura, the Support X/Y Distance setting generally controls the minimum allowable distance between the model's vertical walls and the support structure in the X-Y plane. If the 3D support structure damages or sticks to the walls, you can increase this value in 0.2 mm increments until the walls are smooth. However, it is highly recommended to ensure that there are no small overhangs protruding from the outer walls, which would be left unsupported by leaving a small distance between the support and the walls. With these small overhangs, you may even need to decrease the X/Y distance instead of increasing it. Otherwise, printing will fail.
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Z Distance setting to allow for easier removal of 3D support structures model layers. The Cura software creates this weaker connection by leaving a certain space between the top and bottom of the support structure and the model - this space is known as the Z distance.
By setting the hidden Z-Distance settings in the Support section, the 3D support structures can be more easily separated from the model. The default value of this setting is equal to the height of the layer. So if the layer height is 0.1mm, the default Z distance will also be 0.1mm.
If the support material is difficult to separate from the model, it is recommended to increase this value in increments of layer height until it separates cleanly. Cura may or may not provide additional support for any particular layer. Unfortunately, half layer values do not exist. That is, if the Z Distance value of 0.2 mm is too large for printing with a layer height of 0.1 mm, and the Z-Distance value of 0.1 mm is not enough, there are no other options for setting the Z Distance value.
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Choosing the right 3D caliper structure to strike the right balance between strength and ease of removal
Support patterns in Cura
Cura provides one of seven 3D caliper patterns.
The pattern can be changed using a hidden setting called Support Pattern in the Setting section.
In most cases, the default pattern, Zig Zag, provides the best balance between strength and ease of removal. Other scheme options: Triangles (Triangles), Lines (Lines), Grid (Lattice), Concentric (Concentric), Concentric 3D (Concentric 3D) and Cross (Cross). If the default schema doesn't work, you can experiment with other options. Each provides a different balance between strength and ease of removal.
Caliper structures are a necessary evil in 3D printing. They are needed to print complex overhangs and bridges on the model. But when soluble 3D support structures cannot be used, it is recommended to try to minimize their use. We've covered situations where 3D caliper structures aren't needed and mentioned a few creative tricks for printing without them.
However, often the overhang or bridge may be such that a support structure has to be used. In this case, you need to change the layering settings so as not to waste too much material and not damage the model during the removal of supports.
Options for choosing the proper printer settings for optimal results were discussed, as well as some techniques for correct removal of 3D support structures.
We hope this article will help you improve your 3D printing results and the quality of your printed models. If you liked our article, please share it with your friends and colleagues in the field of 3D printing.
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Calipers for 3D printing
The article discusses the purpose of caliper structures in 3D printing, when to use them and how calipers affect the quality and price of your products.
Introduction
Since the model is built up layer by layer during 3D printing, the previous layer is needed to form the new one. Depending on the complexity of the 3D model and the specifics of the 3D printing technologies used, it may be necessary to use special structures for support - the so-called support structures.
It is important to understand that calipers directly affect the quality of the final product.
This is primarily reflected in the finish, as they require post-processing to be removed, resulting in bumps on the surface of the printed 3D model.
Discussed below are support structures, their implementation in various 3D printing technologies, and how they affect the 3D model development process.
FDM calipers
Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) is where molten plastic is fed through an extruder nozzle that follows a predetermined path. As the material is fed, it cools, forming a hardened layer, which will be the basis for the next layer. This process is repeated layer by layer until the model is completely printed.
When are supports required during FDM printing?
During FDM printing, plastic is deposited on and around the bottom layer. Each layer is formed at some distance from the previous extruder. Thanks to this, the model can be formed with angles up to 45°. But if the angle of inclination is more than 45 °, you will definitely need calipers.
Bridges and calipers
True, there are exceptions. The material can stretch over short distances. This method is called bridging (bridge formation). Bridges make it possible not to use calipers. If the bridge is longer than 5 mm, problems may arise again and in this case calipers must be used.
ABCs (or YHTs) caliper examples
Let's take a look at the letters Y, H, and T and the corresponding 3D models.
- The upper part of the Y will print without problems. Even though the "arms" point upwards, their angle is less than 45°, so no additional support structures are needed.
- Letter H is a more difficult case, but if the central baffle is less than 5 mm, you can try to print it without supports. If more than 5, additional calipers will definitely be needed.
- Calipers are required when 3D printing the letter T.
The illustration below shows the letters YHT with light gray lines on the calipers.
Letters Y, H and T printed with calipers are shown below.
The figure below shows the result of 3D printing the letter T without calipers. There are significant irregularities on the surface, as a result, the model is formed incorrectly.
Disadvantages of using FDM calipers
One of the main disadvantages of using calipers is the need for post-processing. As a result, the surface that was in contact with the calipers may be damaged. The quality of this surface will be much worse and will require additional processing. If parts of the model are small, it will be difficult to remove the calipers without breaking it.
Naturally, support structures require the use of additional matiral, which translates into a high price for the manufacture of the product. Separately, it is worth considering the time it takes to remove the calipers and post-process the product, since this is also money.
How many supports are required for FDM printing?
In the example below, the calipers are required in the narrowest, almost horizontal position of the arch.
The figure below shows a "Sphere in a cube" - an example in which a large number of support structures are needed. In this case, removing the calipers will be difficult. For this, you will definitely need a file. It is worth being careful and try not to hook the surface of the model next to the caliper. A separate problem will arise when finishing the part after removing the caliper.
The above model cannot be realized with FDM printing without support. In this case, you should not pay attention to the cost and additional time spent.
Two types of FDM calipers
FDM printing offers two types of caliper structures, which are shown in the figure below. On the left is an example of an "accordion" support, on the right - a "tree" (English - "accordion" and "tree", respectively).
The first variant, resembling a flat accordion, is the most common and best suited for FMD 3D printing. The second type is not used as often, but it has the advantage that there is less contact with the surface of the model, and accordingly, the finished model will be easier to process.
The photo below shows the 3D printed model with the accordion calipers removed.
Solvent Calipers
Special solvent calipers can be used on 3D printers with two printheads. After printing, the model is placed in an appropriate chemical solution that dissolves the caliper but does not damage the product itself. The surface of the model will be much better, but the production will be more expensive and take longer. Similar calipers can be printed on Ultimaker 3 3D printers using PVA caliper material.
SLA and DLP calipers
Stereolithography (SLA) and Digital Light Processing (DLP) is the process of forming a 3D model from a photopolymer using a light source to form a solid model.
When are supports required during SLA and DLP printing?
In order for the model to adhere well to the base during SLA and DLP printing, supports must be used almost always. The caliper structures are made as thin as possible, they taper towards the point of contact with the product in order to save material and reduce printing time.
The number of support stands, their location and configuration are calculated in the software and depend on the shape, orientation and weight of the printed product.
SLA and DLP are one of the most precise 3D printing technologies, allowing you to print the smallest products with high precision. With high-quality post-processing of the part, the use of calipers does not particularly affect the quality of the manufactured 3D model.
Removing support structures after SLA and DLP printing
Isopropyl alcohol is used first for cleaning. The calipers can simply be broken off or cut off with pliers. After removing the calipers, bumps remain, which are cleaned.
Caliper positioning in SLA and DLP 3D printing
Part orientation plays a very important role in the positioning of support structures during SLA and DPL printing. Just by changing the orientation of the product, you can significantly reduce the number of support structures and, consequently, reduce the cost of printing.
The orientation of the model also affects the location of the calipers. If you have a product with a complex configuration, with a lot of thin or small parts, you can divide the model into several parts and connect them after printing (invent mechanisms for fixing or just use glue).
The photo below shows the printed product with residues from support structures
Structure support for Material jetting (PolyJet)
Material Jetting is a technology that, in principle, resembles conventional ink printing. But instead of ink in these 3D printers, a liquid photopolymer is supplied, which is then subjected to light irradiation.
When do I need to use supports for PolyJet printing?
Calipers are used in all cases where there are intersecting parts of the model, regardless of the angles. Support structures can be water soluble or can be removed with files, ultrasonic baths or sandblasting. The figure below shows the process of removing caliper structures after a PolyJet print.
Unlike FDM 3D printing, caliper structures do not affect the quality or specifications of the finished product. After post-processing, it is almost impossible to distinguish parts of the model with and without support structures.
Features and Limitations of PolyJet Printing
Sandblasting, pressurized water treatment is used during post-processing of the model. These technologies require certain rules of use in order not to damage the model.
If your model has fragile parts, laser sintering (SLS) is recommended.
Structure support for SLS 3D printing
Selective Laser Sintering (SLS) uses a laser to form a 3D model. With SLS printing, there is no need to use a structure caliper, since the sintered block itself is a caliper. This makes it possible to produce models of any configuration and complexity, but this significantly increases the time and cost of manufacturing. SLS printing requires additional time for cooling and subsequent post-processing of the model, which consists of several steps, including blowing the model with high pressure air.
