3D printed anime figurines

Designers of all stripes, regardless of occupation, are showing an increased interest in the new 3D printing technology. Are no exception and those who are engaged in the development of clothing. At a fashion show, the most famous fashion designers do not consider it shameful to demonstrate clothes made from non-standard materials. Often on the podium you can see amazing robes made of wood, metal, plastic - beautiful and completely impractical clothes that are rather symbolic. But if you approach the issue of creating dresses, trousers and shirts in this way, then why not use a 3D printer? Especially since 3D printing can do what a fashion designer can only dream of - almost instantly provide a result.

⇡#Dress sewn according to the formula

One of the first who set out to print clothes on a printer was designer Michael Schmidt. His first creation is a one-of-a-kind dress made entirely with the help of the Shapeways web service (not counting the decorative Swarovski crystals that adorned the finished outfit).

For an unusual dress, an unusual way of designing it was also used. The dress was literally programmed and calculated. Fashion designers are usually far from science, so the help of another person who would have a technical mindset was needed. Michael turned to his friend, the architect Francis Bitonti. After conferring, they came to the conclusion that the surest way to derive a formula for a dress is to refer to the golden ratio, which is easily described by the Fibonacci number sequence. Around this famous mathematical calculation, disputes have long been ongoing. The Fibonacci sequence is interesting because it can be found in the most unexpected creations of nature. Fibonacci numbers can describe the arrangement of seeds in a sunflower, the placement of leaves on a tree, and much more. And yet, according to a popular hypothesis, many man-made masterpieces became such precisely because the rules of the golden section were observed during their creation. Many designers tend to assume that this rule allows you to get the harmony of form. Michael Schmidt was of the same opinion. The curves drawn using the Fibonacci sequence were superimposed on the contours of the female figure, as a result of which the “ideal” topology of the dress was obtained, from which the layout for printing was drawn up.

We can't claim that the golden section rule worked 100%, but the printed version of the clothes looks really good. It contains more than three thousand fastened movable elements that give the dress some elasticity.

⇡#3D shoes

While others are only exploring the possibilities of using 3D printing to produce outfits, renowned sportswear and footwear manufacturer Nike has taken 3D printing to the industrial scale. This brand has announced a new technology for the production of sports boots, which will allow the company to abandon the long process of creating template molds.

The most important thing in sports shoes is maximum grip on the ground. If we consider shoes as a construction, then the main part responsible for the sporting characteristics of the model is the sole. The results demonstrated by the athlete directly depend on the shape of the spikes, their number and the variant of their location on the shoe. Nike has developed a new outsole shaping principle based on selective laser sintering technology.

According to the company, soon the shape of the sole on the shoe can be corrected in a matter of hours, releasing models taking into account the individual characteristics of the athlete. The company's designers are delighted with the new approach. Now you can experiment with 3D printing every day and not languish in anticipation of the next protector prototype being received and tested.

⇡#3D printer as a sewing machine

A 3D printer developed at Carnegie Mellon University in collaboration with a team of scientists at Disney Research in Pittsburgh is capable of creating 3D models from. .. soft yarn. The operation of such a 3D printer is somewhat reminiscent of a sewing machine. Along the base moves the needle combined with the print head, which forms the geometry of the printed model by felting. The first thought that comes to mind when you see such a device is that you can easily make soft children's toys with it. And in this sense, the fact that specialists from the ubiquitous Disney company had a hand in creating the printer seems very symbolic to us.

⇡#3D printing for driving and flying

Printed supercars

The main material used in most 3D printing devices today is ABS plastic (sometimes PLA is used - biodegradable plastic). Products made with it can be coated with paint, varnish. Visually "disguised" plastic in such models can sometimes even be confused with some other material, such as metal. This material has many advantages. ABS material is non-toxic, impact resistant, can contact with water, resistant to alkalis, does not react with fats, gasoline, lubricants, hydrocarbons.

Swedish supercar manufacturer Koenigsegg has taken advantage of all these qualities in the production of the new Koenigsegg One:1. This machine has amazing features. The power of 1360 horsepower alone (which equates to one megawatt) is enough for the car to be considered the world's first representative of a new class of cars - megacars. By the way, the very name of the new car has a hidden meaning, “one to one” means the ratio of power and weight of the car, which, thanks to the careful selection of materials, is only 1340 kg.

Designing this machine, the Swedish company's specialists regularly turned to 3D technologies. Before the approval of a particular component of the car, preliminary testing of a part printed on a 3D printer was often carried out. Sometimes Swedish designers used three-dimensional scanning, which made it possible to quickly create a basic model of a particular part.

In addition to ABS, which was ideal for prototyping, the engineers also used printing of titanium structures. So, for example, components of a new turbocharger with variable geometry were printed on a 3D printer. A titanium exhaust tip was also made, reducing the weight of the structure by 14 ounces (400 grams).

3D technology has made it possible to significantly speed up the process of developing the design of components and in some cases even reduce the cost of production (the retail price of the machine was two million dollars in the end).

If you find Swedish supercar manufacturer Koenigsegg's masterpiece beyond your means, don't be discouraged. There is a great way to save money. Pay attention to another supercar - from a small American company Rezvani Motors.

The cost of a sports car from this manufacturer is much lower - from $ 124 900. But the design of this sports car also used printed parts. These are mainly small elements - fragments of the lighting system, mirrors, etc. In addition, three-dimensional models of the car were used at the design stage of the car body, which was eventually made of carbon fiber.

⇡#A flying 3D printer that prints nests and fights radiation

An unusual project was also demonstrated by the Air Robotics Laboratory at Imperial College London. Through the efforts of engineers, a flying 3D printer was created. The main goal of roboticists was to create a device that can be used to clear the area of ​​radioactive debris, for example, in an accident at a nuclear power plant.

Scientists have combined a printer with a quadcopter and developed a special program that determines the behavior of this quadcopter. With the help of sensors, the first flying quadcopter identifies the source of radioactive contamination, after which it flies up and starts printing on the surface of the object with a sticky substance. Next, the robot sends a signal to its partner, which flies up and lands on a sticky "nest". After a while, the substance solidifies, and the second porter robot flies away, carrying away the cargo contaminated with radiation. The prototype is capable of lifting a weight of up to two and a half kilograms, but British specialists intend to build an enlarged copy of these robots in the near future, which will be able to pick up loads of up to forty kilograms.

⇡#Porthole printing

Since 2010, the National Aeronautics and Space Administration has been working on the development of 3D printing technologies in low gravity conditions. During this time, NASA specialists managed to achieve good results. So, in July 2013, a pair of rocket engine injectors were successfully tested, which were subjected to high pressure and temperature (3316 degrees Celsius). The purpose of the ongoing research is to study the possibilities of 3D printing in space and extreme conditions. The presence of such tools on board the space station can significantly reduce the cost of flights, since the crew members will be able to create the spare parts necessary for repairs on their own, and not transport them from Earth.

⇡#Printing under maple syrup: food on a 3D printer

Oddly enough, but one of the first prototypes of 3D printing devices can be considered ... a pastry syringe. Long before the advent of computer technology, confectioners deftly “printed” delicious patterns from cream and dough. But then a lot depended on the individual skill and skill of a person in the kitchen. And with the advent of 3D printers, the task has become easier. It was enough to equip the printer with edible material, correct the printing principle, and the result was a tool for edible masterpieces.

Modern 3D printers can print all sorts of delicious things. For example, one of the major chocolate corporations, The Hershey Company, uses 3D printing to produce confectionery. And the help and technical support of the “chocolate printer” is provided by 3D Systems, the same company that was founded by the inventor of three-dimensional printing, Chuck Hull.

But besides the industrial machines for the production of sweet things, there are many more small interesting food 3D printing projects.

For example, Miguel Valenzuela, back in 2010, built a 3D printer for his three-year-old daughter using the popular Lego children's designer. Miguel once read an article about a British designer, Adrian Marshall, who used Lego to build a miniature pancake machine for a client. When Miguel had the imprudence to tell his eldest daughter Lily about this, she listened to her father, and then turned to her younger sister and said: “Maya! Dad is going to make a pancake machine!” When a three-year-old child demands a pancake machine, it's better not to argue, Miguel decided, and began designing such a device. He spent six months to create this miracle, but the efforts of the head of the family were more than justified. The children were delighted with the cooked pancakes and ate them with increased appetite. It looked like this.

Miguel built an invented device on the Arduino platform, it was called PancakeBot and printed pancakes beautifully. By pouring batter according to a given pattern, the PancakeBot pancake printer can make any shape, such as “build” the Eiffel Tower or draw the silhouette of an animal.

⇡#Fly in the ointment: printed weapons and a threat to health

3D printing has many advantages, however, in addition to the benefits it promises, this technology can bring harm to humanity. It all depends on the purpose for which a person will use it. You can print cases for gadgets, you can design prostheses, or you can use 3D printing to make jewelry. And you can set a goal to create a weapon aimed at the destruction of other people. Unfortunately, this thought quickly crossed the man's mind. And as soon as 3D printers became available to the average user, there were enthusiasts who immediately offered their designs of plastic weapons.

⇡#Printers in service

The first model of a pistol that could be easily printed on a 3D printer was the Liberator. It was invented by a Texas student named Cody Wilson. Interestingly, at the time of the appearance of the first printed pistol, Cody had a license to develop firearms.

The Liberator's first single-shot pistol made of plastic

The Liberator was made entirely of standard consumables, with the exception of one small detail - the pistol's firing pin had to be metal. However, this is not a problem at all, since this part of the gun can simply be made from an ordinary nail.

As soon as Cody demonstrated his development, it was immediately subjected to a flurry of criticism from officials. Less than a week later, the US government passed a law restricting free access to blueprints for such devices.

Nevertheless, it is almost impossible to control the 3D printing of weapons today. Anyone with a 3D printing device can make firearms at home.

Israel's Channel 10 reporters conducted an experiment that only added fuel to the controversy surrounding the unexpected problem of controlling the production of new weapons. They smuggled an unopened pistol into the Knesset without any difficulty and were able to pass, along with the weapon, within a few steps of Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu.

Other Daily Mail journalists Simon Murphy and Russell Myers similarly demonstrated the extent of the problem. They unsealed the gun from documentation from the Web and, with no concealment of their cargo, were able to take the Eurostar train at rush hour and travel from London to Paris. The security service did not notice the threat, and the metal detectors could not fix the components of The Liberator, which Simon Murphy assembled without problems in a single structure in the train lavatory.

Scandals related to 3D-production and distribution of weapons continue unabated. One of the latest incidents took place in Japan, where gun laws are known to be very strict. Local resident Yoshimoto Imura, to his misfortune, posted a video on YouTube showing a weapon printed on a printer. After some time, the police raided his house, who confiscated several ready-made pistols.

A 27-year-old Japanese man feigned surprise and stated that he knew nothing about the illegality of his actions. He bought the printer quite legally, paying almost $600 for it, and downloaded all the necessary documentation from the Internet. Of course, Yoshimoto was cunning, because he, as a lover of weapons, should have been well aware that it was the Japanese government that had a very strict policy regarding the possession of firearms. Firearms Act of 1978 years prohibits the Japanese from owning any firearms, with very rare exceptions. Japanese citizens are allowed to own rifles or shotguns, but only if they hold a hunting license. The licensing procedure in Japan is very strict and obtaining a license is a lengthy process. This incident is interesting, first of all, because the law was first applied to unsealed weapons.

Production of things using 3D printing technologies is dangerous not only because scientific progress can turn to the “dark side” for the production of weapons. Infected with the idea of ​​easy creation of things, many do not pay any attention to the safety precautions that must be observed by the user when working with a 3D printer.

⇡#Watch out, 3D printing in progress!

According to researchers at the Illinois Institute of Technology and scientists at the National Institute of Applied Sciences in Lyon, 3D printers may pose health risks when used in the home. In 2013, a team of scientists conducted a series of studies, and it was found that when plastic is heated during the printing process, it emits up to 20-200 billion ultra-small particles into the air per minute. Their entry into the lungs and blood poses a threat to human health, especially for those who suffer from asthma.

Also during the heating of acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS plastic) by-products are released that are toxic to mammals. Of course, the degree of negative health impact largely depends on the 3D printing technology used, the design of the device, the presence of a hood, and other factors. However, in any case, it is best to print in a well-ventilated area, and the machine itself should ideally be hermetically isolated from the user during operation. At the moment, there are many artisanal designs of printers that are sold under the do-it-yourself scheme. Often these are Chinese assembly kits, where elementary security measures are not provided at all.

⇡#3D printing: what's next?

Mix of materials: printing anything

It is easy to predict the near future. Devices for three-dimensional printing will master more and more new types of materials. The development of technology can be strongly influenced by some new discovery, which we simply cannot predict. The only thing that can be said with certainty is that the scope of three-dimensional graphics will become wider.

The day is not far off when the owner of a 3D printer at home will be able to print not only plastic parts, but also complex electronic devices. One of the most requested features is support for printing with multiple materials at the same time. In the future, the possibility of combining different materials opens up simply fantastic opportunities for the production of objects for various purposes. One of the prototypes of such a device is a printer called Rabbit Proto, created by graduates of Stanford University.

The design of this "pilot" printer includes two modules - a module for standard ABS 3D printing and an additional head that works as a nozzle for precise injection of conductive ink. This combination makes it possible to literally create electronic devices. As an example, the creator of Rabbit Proto demonstrates how easy it is to make a Nintendo-like game controller using such a 3D printer.

The designer guarantees the compatibility of its nozzle with most modern RepRap printers. It is assumed that a completely ready-to-use Rabbit Proto printer will cost $ 2,500. The developer made his project open. Anyone can read the technical documentation of the device on GitHub.

3D printing, 3D scanning, 3D copying: ALL IN ONE

The process is likely to become more advanced and the functionality of 3D printers will expand. Already now we see the first hint of the evolution of these devices. In the same way that conventional printers have become MFPs with the ability to scan and copy, 3D printers will also learn to digitize the geometry of objects on the fly. This idea has already begun to be implemented by the engineers of the American company AIO Robotics.

ZEUS All-In-One 3D Printer

Recently, they showed a model of a multifunctional device. A device called ZEUS All-In-One 3D Printer can print, scan, copy models. In addition, this device supports the Fax mode of operation, which allows you to transfer the model geometry to a remote print station (to a similar printer).

ZEUS 3D Printer should go on sale this summer. It is equipped with a seven-inch color display, can perform auto-calibration and model grid alignment, and is very easy to operate. Scanned space 9inches (diameter) x 5 inches (height), and the printable space is 8 x 6 x 5. 7 inches. The printer supports a resolution of 80 microns when printing and 125 microns when scanning objects. Initially, the device will be priced at $2,499, excluding consumables.

⇡#Printing with the power of thought

Well, if you still try to imagine what 3D printing devices will look like in the future, you should discard stereotypes and conventions. The Chilean company Thinker Thing has demonstrated an amazing thing - a 3D printer controlled by a telepathic interface. With the help of a special headset with sensors for the activity of neural connections in the brain, the user can send a three-dimensional form for printing with an effort of thought.

It is possible that 3D modeling will become just as easy and comfortable in the future, and to create a 3D masterpiece, you just need to imagine it well.

Post-processing of 3D printed parts (PLA, ABS, SBS, PETG)

Table of Contents

• Remove Supports
• Soluble Support Removal
• Sanding
• Cold welding
• Filling voids
• Polished
• Priming and painting
• Pair smoothing
• Epoxy coating
• Metallization

Introduction

FDM technology is best suited for rapid, low-budget prototyping. Layer lines are usually visible in FDM prints, so post-processing is essential if a smooth surface is to be achieved. Some post-processing techniques can also make a print more durable by changing the degree of its elastic properties, density, structural and textural features.

In this article, we will discuss the most common post-processing techniques in FDM.

Post-processed FDM prints (left to right): cold welded, void filled, raw, sanded, polished, painted and epoxy coated. Photo 3dhubs.com

Removing supports

Removing supports is usually the first step in post-processing for any 3D printing technology that uses them. In general, props can be divided into two categories: standard and soluble. Unlike other post-processing methods discussed in this article, the removal of props is mandatory and does not result in improved surface quality.

Initial printout with props, poor prop removal, good prop removal. photo 3dhubs. com

Removal of standard supports

Tools

• Nippers, needle nose pliers, tongs
• Toothbrush, brush

Process

Normally, the backups come off the printout without problems, and hard-to-reach places (such as holes or cavities) can be removed from the backup material with an old toothbrush. Proper placement of support structures and correct print orientation can significantly reduce the negative impact of supports on how the final printout will look.

Pluses

• Does not change the overall geometry of the part.
• The process is very fast.

Cons

• Does not remove layer lines, scratches or other surface defects.
• If excess material or markings remain from the support structure, print accuracy and appearance suffer.

Soluble Support Removal

Instrumentation

• Solvent resistant container
• Thinner
• Ultrasonic cleaner (optional)

Process

Soluble support standard materials are removed from the printout by immersing it in a reservoir of the appropriate solvent. Supports are usually printed:

• HIPS (usually with ABS)
• PVA (usually with PLA)

A glass container like a preservation jar is fine. Any non-porous vessel is suitable for water treatment. To quickly remove props from HIPS/ABS printouts, you will need a solution of equal parts D-limonene and isopropyl alcohol. Many other support structure materials such as PVA (with PLA) dissolve in normal water.

Pro Tricks

Use an ultrasonic cleaner to shorten the solution time and change the solvent as it becomes saturated. A warm (not hot) solution works faster - heating is useful if there is no cleaner.

Pluses

• Complex geometry is allowed for which the standard method of removing props is not possible.
• Smooth surface at the support points.

Cons

• Improper dissolution of the props can cause discoloration and skewed printouts.
• Does not remove layer lines, scratches or other surface imperfections.
• May cause small holes or holes if soluble material seeps into the object during printing.

Cleaning with a skin

Screenshot Gray ABS ABS ABS PROBECTION

Instrumentation

• EVERTICAL PREASE with grain
  on 150, 220, 400, 1000, 1000 and 200
• Cleaning cloth
• Toothbrush
• Soap
• Face mask

Process

Once the props have been removed or dissolved, sanding can be done to smooth the part and remove any obvious defects such as blots or prop marks. Which sandpaper to start with depends on the thickness of the layer and the quality of the print: for layers of 200 microns or less, or for prints without blotches, you can start with sandpaper at P150. If there are blobs visible to the naked eye, or the object is printed with a layer thickness of 300 microns or more, stripping should begin with P100.

The process can be continued up to P2000 grit (one approach is to go to 220, then 400, 600, 1000 and finally 2000). Wet sanding is recommended from the very beginning to the very end - this will avoid excessive friction, which can lead to an increase in temperature and damage the object, as well as contaminate the sandpaper itself. Between sanding, the printout should be cleaned with a toothbrush and washed with soapy water, then wiped with a cloth to remove dust and prevent it from sticking together. Even P5000 can be sanded to achieve a smooth, shiny FDM part.

Pro Tricks

Always sand in small circular motions - evenly over the entire surface of the part. It may be tempting to sand perpendicular to the layers, or even parallel, but this can lead to gouges. If the part is discolored or has a lot of scratches after sanding, it can be heated a little to soften the surface and allow some defects to smooth out.

Pros

• An exceptionally smooth surface is obtained.
• Further post-processing (painting, polishing, smoothing and epoxy coating) is greatly facilitated.

Cons

• Not recommended for double or single shell parts as sanding may damage the printout.
• The process is difficult in the case of sophisticated surfaces and the presence of small details in the object.
• If the grinding is done too aggressively and too much material is removed, the appearance of the part can be affected.
Acetone for ABS. Dichloromethane for PLA, ABS
• Sponge Applicator

Process

If the object is larger than the printer's capacity, the object is printed in parts and then assembled. In the case of PLA and some other materials, assembly can be done with Dichloromethane or a suitable adhesive (the choice of adhesive depends on the plastic). In the case of ABS, it is possible to "weld" with acetone. The mating surfaces should be slightly moistened with acetone and squeezed tightly or clamped and held until most of the acetone has evaporated. So the parts will be held together by chemical bonds.

Pro Tricks

Increasing the surface area of ​​the acetone contact increases bond strength. Tongue-and-groove to help.

Pros

• Acetone does not change surface color as much as most adhesives.
• After drying, the compound acquires the properties of ABS, which makes further processing easier and more uniform.

Cons

• The bonding of ABS parts by cold "welding" with acetone is not as strong as if the part were printed as a whole.
• Excessive use of acetone can dissolve the part and affect final appearance and tolerances.

Void Fill

Black ABS Print, Filled and Sanded

Tool Kit

• Epoxy (for small voids only)
• Automotive body filler (large voids and joints)
• ABS filament and acetone (only for small voids in ABS printouts)

Process

Unusual voids may come out after the part has been ground or the soluble props have been dissolved. These voids are formed during printing when the layers are incomplete due to any restrictions on the trajectory of the print head, which is often inevitable. Small gaps and voids can be easily filled with epoxy and no additional treatment is required in this case. Larger gaps or voids left by assembling a multi-part object can be filled with automotive bodywork filler, but the printout will then need to be re-sanded. Putty works great, is easy to process with sandpaper and can be painted. Moreover, the parts connected by such a filler, or voids filled with it, turn out to be stronger than the original plastic.

Slots in ABS printouts can also be filled with ABS thinned with acetone, which reacts chemically with the ABS object and seeps into existing voids. It is recommended to make such a putty from 1 part ABS and 2 parts acetone, then it will not spoil the surface if used correctly.

Dichloromethane works on all plastics: ABS, PLA, HIPS, SBS, etc.

Epoxy is also useful if you want to make your 3D printed part more durable

Pros

• Epoxy filler is easy to sand and prime, resulting in an excellent surface for painting.
• An ABS solution of the same filament will give the same color so nothing will be visible on the surface.

Cons

• Auto body filler or other polyester epoxy adhesive is opaque when dry and will leave discolored areas on the printout.
• Additional processing required to achieve a uniform surface.
• If the grinding is done too aggressively and too much material is removed, the appearance of the part can be affected.

Polished

PLA model, polished. Photo rigid.ink

Tools

• Plastic Polishing Compound
• Sandpaper for P2000
• Cleaning cloth
• Toothbrush
• Polishing pad or microfiber cloth

Process

Once the part has been cleaned, a plastic polish can be applied to the part to give a standard ABS or PLA object a mirror finish. After the part has been sanded for 2000, it is necessary to remove dust from the printout with a cloth and rinse the printout under warm water using a toothbrush. When the object is completely dry, buff it on a buffing pad or microfiber cloth, adding a polishing compound as you go, such as polishing jewelry. They are designed specifically for plastics and synthetics and give a long-lasting shine. Other plastic polishes, such as those used to polish car headlights, also work well, but some of them contain chemicals that can damage the printout.

Pro Tricks

To polish small parts, place the polishing wheel on your Dremel (or other rotary tool such as a power drill). For larger and stronger parts, you can use a grinder, just make sure that the part does not stay in one place for too long, otherwise the plastic may melt from friction.

Pros

• The part is polished without solvents that can warp it or change its tolerances.
• When properly ground and polished, a mirror-smooth surface is obtained, very similar to cast.
• Polishing and deburring plastic is extremely economical, making this a very cost-effective method of achieving a quality finish.

Cons

• If you want to achieve a mirror-smooth surface, the part must be carefully ground before polishing, which may affect tolerances.
• After polishing, the primer or paint no longer sticks.

Primer and paint

Gray PLA FDM print spray painted black. 3dhubs.com

Tools

• Cleaning cloth
• Toothbrush
• 150, 220, 400 and 600 grit sandpaper
• Aerosol Primer for Plastics
• Finish paint
• Polishing sticks
• Polishing paper
• Masking tape (only if multiple colors are expected)
• Nitrile gloves and matching face mask

Process

After the printout has been properly sanded (it is enough to reach P600 when painting), it can be primed. Aerosol plastic primer should be applied in two coats. This primer is intended for subsequent painting of models, provides an even coating and at the same time thin enough not to hide small elements. Thick primer, which is sold in hardware stores, can clump, and then you have to seriously work with sandpaper. Apply the first spray coat with short pressures from a distance of 15-20 cm from the object, trying to do it evenly. Let the primer dry and smooth out the unevenness with 600 grit sandpaper. Apply a second coat of spray with light, quick pressures, also very gently and evenly.

When the priming is completed, you can start painting. You can paint with artistic acrylic paints and brushes, but a spray gun will provide a smoother surface. Hardware store spray paints are thick and viscous and difficult to control, so use paints that are designed specifically for modeling. The primed surface must be sanded and polished (sanding and polishing sticks, which are used in nail salons, can be purchased online, they are great for our task), and then wiped with a cloth. The paint should be applied to the model in very thin layers, the first layers should be transparent. When the paint finish becomes opaque (usually 2-4 coats), let the model rest for 30 minutes to allow the paint to dry completely. Carefully polish the paint layer with manicure sticks, repeat the procedure for each of the colors (between each applied paint).

Separate parts of the model can be covered with masking tape so that the colors, if there are several, do not mix. When painting is complete, remove the masking tape and polish the object with polishing paper. Polishing paper, such as 3M or Zona, comes in a variety of grits and is a relatively new product. It is sold in packs in various online stores, and after processing with this paper, the ink layer or topcoat will literally shine - and nothing else can achieve this effect. Apply 1-2 coats of top coat to protect the paint and let it dry completely. The top coat is selected in accordance with the recommendations of the paint manufacturer. If the topcoat and paint are incompatible, it can render your entire painting job meaningless, so compatibility is very important here.

Pro Tips

Don't shake the can when spraying! It is important not to mix the pigment or primer with the propellant (propellant gas), which will cause bubbles to form in the spray. Instead, the can must be rotated for 2-3 minutes so that the mixing ball rolls like a pearl, and does not strum.

Pros

• Excellent result, if you take into account all the nuances of the process and practice.
• You can do anything with the final look of the object, no matter what material it is printed on.

Cons

• Primer and paint increase the volume of the model, which affects tolerances and can be a problem when it comes to a part of a larger object.
• High quality aerosol paint or spray gun increases costs.

Vapor smoothed

Vapor smoothed black ABS printed hemisphere

Tools

• Cleaning cloth
• Solvent resistant sealed container
• Thinner
• Paper towels
• Aluminum foil (or other solvent resistant material)
• Face mask and chemical resistant gloves

Process

Line the bottom of the container with paper towels, if possible along the sides. It is critical that the vapors cannot damage the container and that the container itself is sealed. It is recommended to use a glass or metal container. Apply enough thinner to the paper towels so that they are wet but not soaked - this will also help them adhere better to the walls. Acetone is famous for its ability to smooth out ABS. PLA can be smoothed with a variety of other solvents (dichloromethane works well), but this plastic tends to be much harder to smooth than ABS. When working with any solvents, please follow the safety precautions for handling chemicals and always take appropriate precautions. Place a small "raft" of aluminum foil or other solvent-resistant material in the center of the paper towel-lined container. Place the printout on the "raft" (either side of your choice) and close the lid of the container. Steam polishing can take varying amounts of time, so check your printout periodically. To increase the speed of polishing, the container can be heated, but this must be done carefully so as not to cause an explosion.

When removing the printout from the container, try not to touch it in any way, leave it on the “raft”, take them out together. In all those places where the printout has come into contact with something, there will be defects, since the outer layer will be under-dissolved. Before working with it, let the printout completely “breathe” so that all solvent vapors have evaporated.

Many aerosols and/or solvent sprays are flammable or explosive and their vapors can be harmful to humans. Be extremely careful when heating solvents, always handle them and store them in a well ventilated area.

Pluses

• Many small blotches, as well as many layer lines, are smoothed out without additional processing.
• The printout surface becomes exceptionally smooth.
• The procedure is very fast and can be performed using widely available materials.

Cons

• Does not “heal” cracks, does not completely hide layer lines.
• During the smoothing process, the outer layer of the printout dissolves, which greatly affects the tolerances.
• Negatively affects the strength of the printout due to changes in the properties of its material.

Immersion

PLA model immersed in dichloromethane. Photo 3dpt.ru

Tools

• Solvent resistant container
• Thinner
• Eye hook or cog
• Heavy wire for sculpture or landscaping
• Dryer or drying rack
• Face mask and chemical resistant gloves

Process

Make sure the container you are using is wide and deep enough to completely submerge the printout in the solution. Fill the container with the appropriate amount of solvent - be careful not to splash. As with vapor smoothing, ABS dip smoothing can be done with acetone, which is easy to find in the store, and for PLA, dichloromethane can also work well with ABS, HIPS, SBS, PETG, and many other materials. PLA is quite resistant to solvent smoothing, so it may take several passes to achieve the desired result. Prepare the printout for dipping by screwing a hook or eye screw into it in an inconspicuous place. Pass the wire through the eyelet or wrap the wire around the screw so that the printout can be immersed in the solvent. If the wire is too thin, it will not be able to withstand the buoyant force on the printout, and it will be difficult to sink the object.

Once the printout is ready, use a wire to completely immerse it in the solvent for a few seconds. Remove the printout and hang it by the wire in a dryer or on a drying frame to allow the solvent to completely evaporate from the surface. After ejection, the printout can be gently shaken to facilitate the drying process and ensure that no solvent has accumulated in the depressions.

Pro Tricks

If an opaque whitish coating appears on the print after drying, this can be corrected by holding the object over a solvent bath for a while so that its vapor slightly dissolves the surface. This restores the original color of the printout and achieves a shiny outer layer.

Pros

• The surface of the print is smoothed much faster than steam polishing.
• Significantly less fumes are generated than other solvent polishing methods, so this method is less hazardous.

Cons

• The surface is smoothed very aggressively, so you can forget about tolerances.
• Immersion for too long can result in complete deformation of the object and a significant change in material properties.

Epoxy

Black ABS printout, half epoxy coated, half uncoated

Toolbox

• two part epoxy resin
• Sponge Applicator
• Mixing container
• Sandpaper P1000 or finer

Process

After the printout has been cleaned (preliminary cleaning gives the best end result), wipe it thoroughly with a cloth. Mix the resin and hardener in the proportion indicated in the instructions, accurately measuring all volumes. The curing process of epoxy resin is exothermic, so glass containers and containers made of materials with a low melting point should be avoided. It is recommended to use containers that are specifically designed for mixing epoxy resins. Incorrect ratio of resin and hardener can result in longer curing time or no curing at all and result in a permanently sticky substance. Mix the resin and thinner as directed in the instructions - carefully, in smooth movements to minimize the amount of air bubbles remaining inside the mixture. Very little epoxy is needed, and most of these resins only work for 10-15 minutes, so plan accordingly.

Apply the first coat of epoxy with a sponge applicator, being careful not to build up in crevices and small parts. When the printout is sufficiently coated, allow the resin to fully cure - as described in the instructions that came with it. One coat may be sufficient, but for optimum results it is best to lightly sand the printout with fine sandpaper (on P1000 and above) to eliminate any imperfections. Wipe off the dust with a cloth and, in the same way as before, apply a second layer of epoxy.

Pros

• A very thin coat of epoxy won't affect tolerance too much (unless the printout has been sanded too hard first).
• A protective shell forms around the object.

Cons

• The layer lines will remain visible, they will only be covered by a smooth shell.
• If too much epoxy is used, it can flood details and edges, and the surface can appear greasy.

Plating

FDM printed structural element nickel plated with Repliform RepliKote technology

Tools (for home use)

Electroplating solution can be obtained by mixing a metal salt, acid and water, but if the proportions are inaccurate and the substances are of insufficient quality, one cannot count on a professional result. If you buy a ready-made solution (as in Midas kits), you can be sure that the problems with plating are not caused by the solution.
• Sacrificial anode. The anode material must match the metal of the solution: for example, if copper sulfate is used in the solution (with water it is copper sulfate), then the anode must also be copper. Any object made of the appropriate metal will do (for example, copper wire for copper plating), or you can buy special strips of metal for galvanization.
• Conductive paint or acetone with graphite. Electroplating requires the print surface to be electrically conductive, and this can be achieved with a conductive ink or a solution of equal parts graphite and acetone. Conductive paint will work with any material, but acetone with graphite will only work with ABS.
• Power rectifier. A simple battery can be used as this element, only it will not be as efficient and will not give a fast enough result than the rectifier itself (household current). The rectifier is safer in the sense that it can simply be turned off and thus cut off the current during the galvanization process.
• Conductive screw or eye hook
• Non-conductive container
• Contacts
• Non-conductive gloves and goggles. Electroplating solutions are acidic and can cause injury if splashed into the eyes, so wearing goggles is very important. Solutions also irritate the skin and conduct electricity, so insulating gloves are needed.

Finishing	★ ★ ★ ★ ☆
Approvals	★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆
Speed ​​	★ ★ ★ ★ ☆
Suitable for	all thermoplastics FDM

Process

Electroplating can be carried out at home or in a professional workshop. To do everything right, you need to be well versed in the materials, in what is actually happening - and at home these opportunities are usually limited. In order to achieve excellent surface quality and to have more plating options, including chrome plating, it is best to use the services of professional workshops. The copper galvanization process will be described below as an example.

At home, you can galvanize with copper or nickel, and this coating will then serve as the basis for galvanizing with other metals. It is critically important that the printout surface be as smooth as possible before it is galvanized. Any bumps and lines in the layers will be enhanced as a result of the process. Prepare the sanded and cleaned object for plating by coating the plastic with a thin coat of high quality conductive paint, or with a graphite and acetone solution for ABS printouts. Allow the conductive coating to dry completely, sand if necessary to ensure a smooth surface. At this stage, it is extremely important not to touch the printout with bare hands or to wear gloves, because sweat marks on the object will certainly affect the quality of the galvanization.

Insert a screw or eyelet in an inconspicuous place on the printout and connect it to the negative terminal of the rectifier. This will be the cathode. Connect the copper anode to the positive contact of the rectifier. Fill the container with enough copper plating solution so that the printout is completely covered with it. Immerse the anode in the container and turn on the power. After the rectifier is turned on, immerse the printout in the container, making sure that it does not touch the anode anywhere. Beware! When the object is already in the bath, the galvanization system is active, and contact with the solution, cathode or anode can be traumatic. Set the voltage on the rectifier to 1-3 Volts, and the process will go to full metallization. To speed things up, the voltage can be increased, but not more than 5 volts. When enough metal has deposited on the printout, simply turn off the power and dry the object with microfiber towels. When it's dry, varnish the object to protect it from corrosion.

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