3D printable printer
Discover the 3D printed 3D printer!
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Contents:
- Introduction
- Can you 3D print a 3D printer?
- How does it work?
- Why should you build your 3D printer from scratch?
- RepRap, the first self-replicating 3D printer
- 3D printed 3D printer: Improving the technology with iterations like Prusa i3
- Building the future of self-replicating 3D printers: Spatial applications
Introduction
Can you 3D print a 3D printer?
Yes, it’s possible to 3D print a 3D printer! Some self-replicating 3D printers have been created, and there are already several versions of them. Though, these types of 3D printers can’t do the whole job themselves. You have to 3D print each part of the 3D printer individually, and then assemble them yourself. Also, there are still a few parts of a 3D printer that can’t be 3D printed as electronic components. So you can 3D print a 3D printer, but not totally for now.
This also stands for plastic 3D printing only. Other types of 3D printers such as metal 3D printers, liquid resin or ceramic 3D printing are not possible to be produced in this way.
How does it work?
3D printing a 3D printer is no different than the manufacturing method of any other 3D printed object. You can actually find the pieces online, but you might need 3D modeling or CAD software to make adjustments. Your parts would be 3D printed layer by layer, the process repeats. You should assure material extrusion runs smoothly and that it produces thin layers. You should also pay attention to the surface finish, although with FDM technology it won’t be the smoothest.
Why should you build 3D printed 3D printer?
Producing your own 3D printer can actually give you a lot of room to learn. It allows you to know the project inside out and dig really deep into all the mysteries of 3D printing. You will gain a lot of knowledge, but also become an expert in case of any repairs.
3D printing gives you new design freedom. Thanks to that you can customize and personalize your own 3D printer according to your needs. No other technology gives you the opportunity to produce a fully adjustable machine to produce your parts.
RepRap, the first self-replicating 3D printer
The first self-replicating 3D printer was invented by Dr. Adrian Bowyer through the RepRap project, senior lecturer at the Department of Mechanical Engineering at the University of Bath, who started his research in 2005. His first functional machine, called the RepRap “Darwin”, with 50% of self-replicated parts, was unveiled in 2008.
Here’s a video of Adrian Bowyer assembling the RepRap project:
The 3D printed 3D printers made by the RepRap project use the Fused Deposition Modeling FDM printing technology, with plastic 3D printing materials. They are desktop 3D printers, and thus they are limited in terms of applications compared to industrial Additive Manufacturing .
Moreover, they can’t totally print themselves. As they are plastic 3D printers made of plastic parts, they can 3D print some parts of themselves, just like they could totally build other 3D printed objects. You then need to assemble them yourself and to add the components who can’t be 3D printed, like electronics or metal parts (since it’s a plastic 3D printer).
3D printed 3D printer: Improving the technology with iterations like Prusa i3
Over the years, since the RepRap project is open-source, with all the 3D models available online, there have been many iterations of this printable 3D printer from various manufacturing aficionados. The Prusa i3 is part of these improvements, and it’s now one of the most used 3D printers in the world. It was designed by Josef Prusa in 2012. Two improved versions have been released since then: the Prusa i3 MK2 in 2016, and the Prusa i3 MK2S in 2017.
Why is it such a success? Its lower cost (you can find its 3D design files for free), and the ease of construction and of modification have made it a must-have for hobbyists, but also for some professionals (even if it doesn’t replace the performance of an industrial 3D printer). It’s popular also in the education field.
Like the previous versions of the RepRap project self-replicating 3D printers, it can only 3D print some of its parts, the ones that are in plastic, but not the metal parts, nor the electronic components. Indeed, it’s not suited yet for metal 3D printiers. But it can be used to create various 3D printed objects, for instance, consumer products, jigs and fixtures or even medical devices..
Building the future of self-replicating 3D printers: Spatial applications
A self-replicating desktop 3D printer is an interesting concept, but in the end, we could 3D print 3D printers for applications way more impacting. The most interesting one is clearly spatial exploration.
Indeed, there are many scientists trying to find a way to 3D print a 3D printer directly in space. One of these machines would be sent to the moon (as a first step), and then recreate itself from lunar materials. A team of researchers from the Department of Mechanical and Aerospace Engineering at Carleton University in Ottawa is currently working on this. Their goal is to then 3D print whole lunar bases, as well as conducting in-space manufacturing of satellites.
This self-replication machine 3D prints a mix of materials such as plastic and iron, in varying proportions, depending on the part needed. The raw material needed to create a similar mixture could be extracted from the lunar regolith, a material covering almost the entire lunar surface.
One of the hardest parts to build when 3D printing a 3D printer is the motor. Alex Ellery, who is leading the project, said in June that the team was close to being capable of printing a fully functioning electric motor from a material similar to what can be sourced on the moon, which is a true revolution.
But there’s another prerequisite for a fully self-replication: electronics. Ellery explained that this one might take much longer to solve. Once it will be possible to use the exact same 3D printed 3D printers to create motors and electronics, these machines will allow the creation of any kind of manufacturing machine, like 3D printers, milling machines, drills or excavating machines. Thus, they will not just self-replicate, but also contribute to the creation of spatial manufacturing centers. And sending only one of these 3D printers to space will allow the creation of huge factories.
Apart from that, the potential applications of additive manufacturing from space are numerous. Indeed, it would also be possible to 3D print space-based solar panels on satellites turning sunlight into energy and to then send this solar power down to earth. Or even to build 3D printable space shields to protect the Earth against solar radiation to fight against global warming.
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Can You 3D Print a 3D Printer? How To Actually Do It – 3D Printerly
Being able to 3D print a printer is a running joke in this field but is it actually possible? This article is going to help answer this question, plus the extras that you’ll want to know.
It’s not entirely possible to 3D print a 3D printer because there are many electronics and specialized parts that can’t be made with a 3D printer, but most of it can definitely be 3D printed.
Many 3D printing projects focus on printing most of the 3D printer before adding on other parts to complete it.
Learning to self-replicate machines such as this carries the potential to change the world’s way of functioning. It can unlock so many doors throughout different sectors, not to mention the self-exploration and design freedom it offers.
This article will detail how exactly people 3D print a printer.
Can a 3D Printer Print Another 3D Printer?
Making a 3D printer with a 3D printer may at first sound incredibly fascinating and unfathomable. But it’s not entirely impossible. Yes, you can 3D print a 3D printer from scratch.
However, you have to 3D print each part of the 3D printer individually and then put them together yourself. Nevertheless, not all segments of a 3D printer can be 3D printed.
There are a few components like electronics and metal parts to add while assembling the 3D printer.
The earliest efforts to 3D print a 3D printer were made about fifteen years ago by Dr. Adrian Bowyer. Working as a senior lecturer at the University of Bath in England, he began his research in 2005.
His project was known as the RepRap Project (RepRap, short for replicating rapid prototyper). After a long series of trials, errors, and everything in between, he came up with his first functional machine – the RepRap ‘Darwin’.
This 3D printer had 50% self-replicated parts and was released in 2008.
You can watch the time-lapse video of Dr. Adrian Bowyer assembling the RepRap Darwin below.
After the release of the 3D printer Darwin, several other improved variations came up. There now exist more than a hundred of them. In this technologically advanced age, it is possible to make a 3D printer with a 3D printer.
Besides, the idea of building your 3D printer from scratch sounds pretty exciting, right? It is an exciting opportunity to learn and understand the nuances of 3D printing. You will not only gain knowledge but also unravel the mystery that surrounds 3D printing.
3D printing a 3D printer gives you the freedom to customize it in whichever way you like. There is no other technology that allows you to do that, giving you all the more reason to go ahead and try it.
Who knows, you might even have a knack for it!
How to 3D Print a 3D Printer?
Since we now know that you can, in fact, 3D print a 3D printer. The next step is to learn how to do it. Brace yourselves, for we bring you a comprehensive yet easy-to-follow guide to print a 3D printer.
In this article, we will discuss the Mulbot 3D Printer, where you can see the instructions by clicking the link.
If you want some history and in-depth info about the Mulbot, check out the Mulbot RepRap page.
The Mulbot is an open-source Mostly Printed 3D printer, featuring a 3D printed frame, bearing blocks, and drive systems.
The main motive behind this project is to take the RepRap concept to the next level and 3D print components other than just the frame. As a consequence of this, no purchased bearings or drive systems are included in this printer.
The Mulbot 3D printer uses square rail type housings to print linear bearings. As the bearings and rails are 3D printed, they are integrated into the framework itself. All three drive systems of the Mulbot are 3D printed as well.
The X-axis utilizes a 3D printed double-wide TPU timing belt coupled with printed drive and idle pulleys, driving the hot-end carriage. The Y-axis is driven by a 3D printed gear rack and pinion.
Lastly, the Z-axis is driven by two large 3D printed trapezoidal screws and nuts.
The Mulbot 3D printer uses the Fused Filament Fabrication (FFF) technology and can be built for under $300.
Below are instructions that will help you get started.
Printing Requirements
– Print size – 175mm x 200mm x 150mm (dual fan shroud)
145mm x 200mm x 150mm (surround shroud)
– Print volume – 250mm x 210mm x 210mm
The original Mulbot was printed on an original Prusa MK3.
Print Surface
8-1 ½ inches Square Floating Glass Bed
The Prusa MK3 stock cast aluminum bed with PEI flex plate was used as the print surface while making the Mulbot 3D printer. However, a glass bed is preferred.
Filament Selection
All components of the Mulbot are designed to be made out of PLA except for the belt and the mounting feet. Those are supposed to be printed out of TPU. The brand Solutech is recommended for the PLA printed parts and Sainsmart for the TPU printed parts.
PLA is best suited as it’s highly stable and does not warp or shrink. Likewise, TPU has outstanding interlayer adhesion and does not curl during the printing process.
You’ll be glad to know that it takes less than 2kg of filament to make the Mulbot 3D printer.
Bearings First
It is very important for you to start by printing the bearings and rails first. This way, if the bearings don’t work, you will save yourselves the trouble of printing the rest of the printer.
You should start by printing the X-axis bearing as it is the smallest and requires minimum amount of filament to print. Make sure that the bearings are exact or else the balls will not circulate accurately.
Once you’re done with the bearings, you can proceed to build the rest of the printer.
Non-Printed Parts
You require the following non-printed parts to make the Mulbot 3D Printer –
- SeeMeCNC EZR Extruder
- E3D V6 Lite Hotend
- Ramps 1.4 Mega Controller
- Capricorn XC 1.75 Bowden Tubing
- 5630 LED Strip Lights
- 150W 12V Power Supply
- IEC320 Inlet Plug with Switch
- Blower Fan
Find the full list of items on the Mulbot Thingiverse Page.
You can refer to this video on YouTube to get a better understanding of printing the Mulbot 3D printer.
Best Self-Replicating 3D Printers
The Snappy 3D printer and Dollo 3D printer are two of the most popular self-replicating printers in the 3D printing industry. The main goal behind the RepRap Project is to develop a fully functional self-replicating 3D printer. These two 3D printers have taken remarkable steps toward that goal.
Snappy 3D Printer
The Snappy 3D Printer by RevarBat is an open-source RepRap 3D printer. The technology used in the making of this self-replicated 3D printer is the Fused Filament Fabrication (FFF) technology, sometimes called Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) technology.
Snappy holds a reputed place in the Guinness Book of World Records as the most 3D printed 3D printer in the world.
As the name suggests, the Snappy 3D printer is made up of parts that snap together, eliminating the use of non-3D printed parts to a large extent. After printing the individual components of the 3D printer, it will hardly take you a couple of hours to assemble them.
The Snappy 3D printer is 73% 3D printable except for motors, electronics, glass build plate, and a bearing. The few necessary non-printable parts are readily available at various supply stores.
What’s even more fascinating is that the entire build cost of the Snappy 3D printer is under $300, making it one of the cheapest and best self-replicating 3D printers in the 3D printing industry.
Dollo 3D Printer
The Dollo 3D printer is an open-source 3D printer designed by a father-son duo – Ben and Benjamin Engel.
It is the result of what essentially started off as a project. Ben and Benjamin have been active members of the RepRap community for many years.
After printing several open-source printers, they gathered that self-replicating ability could be increased by substituting metal rods with printed parts.
Dollo follows the spacious cube design; its sides are constructed in a way that enables you to scale the size of the printing by adding or removing the blocks from the sides.
With numerous 3D printable parts, common exceptions, and ease of assembling with no additional support, the Dollo 3D printer comes close to the Snappy 3D printer.
It is quite interesting to note that Dollo does not have belts in its construction, thereby preventing inaccuracies caused due to lashing. This feature helps you produce objects with neatness and precision.
It also has a feature that allows you to replace the print head with an optional tool converting your 3D printer into a laser-cutter or computer-controlled milling machine. This is versatility at its best.
There aren’t too many showcases of the Dollo 3D printer, so I would be more geared towards going with either the Mulbot or the Snappy 3D printers.
3D printing for "dummies" or "what is a 3D printer?"
- 1 3D printing term
- 2 3D printing methods
- 2.1 Extrusion printing
- 2.2 Melting, sintering or gluing
- 2.3 Stereolithography
- 2.4 Lamination
- 3 Fused Deposition Printing (FDM)
- 3.1 Consumables
- 3.2 Extruder
- 3.3 Working platform
- 3.4 Positioners
- 3.5 Control
- 3.6 Varieties of FDM printers
- 4 Laser stereolithography (SLA)
- 4. 1 Lasers and projectors
- 4.2 Cuvette and resin
- 4.3 Types of stereolithographic printers
3D printing term
The term 3D printing has several synonyms, one of which quite briefly and accurately characterizes the essence of the process - "additive manufacturing", that is, production by adding material. The term was not coined by chance, because this is the main difference between multiple 3D printing technologies and the usual methods of industrial production, which in turn received the name "subtractive technologies", that is, "subtractive". If during milling, grinding, cutting and other similar procedures, excess material is removed from the workpiece, then in the case of additive manufacturing, material is gradually added until a solid model is obtained.
Soon 3D printing will even be tested on the International Space Station
Strictly speaking, many traditional methods could be classified as "additive" in the broad sense of the word - for example, casting or riveting. However, it should be borne in mind that in these cases, either the consumption of materials is required for the manufacture of specific tools used in the production of specific parts (as in the case of casting), or the whole process is reduced to joining ready-made parts (welding, riveting, etc.). In order for the technology to be classified as “3D printing”, the final product must be built from raw materials, not blanks, and the formation of objects must be arbitrary - that is, without the use of forms. The latter means that additive manufacturing requires a software component. Roughly speaking, additive manufacturing requires computer control so that the shape of final products can be determined by building digital models. It was this factor that delayed the widespread adoption of 3D printing until the moment when numerical control and 3D design became widely available and highly productive.
3D printing techniques
3D printing technologies are numerous, and there are even more names for them due to patent restrictions. However, you can try to divide technologies into main areas:
Extrusion printing
This includes methods such as deposition deposition (FDM) and multi-jet printing (MJM). This method is based on the extrusion (extrusion) of consumables with the sequential formation of the finished product. As a rule, consumables consist of thermoplastics or composite materials based on them.
Melting, sintering or bonding
This approach is based on bonding powdered material together. Formation is done in different ways. The simplest is gluing, as is the case with 3D inkjet printing (3DP). Such printers deposit thin layers of powder onto the build platform, which are then selectively bonded with a binder. Powders can be made up of virtually any material that can be ground to a powder—plastic, wood, metal.
This model of James Bond's Aston Martin was successfully printed on Voxeljet's SLS printer and blown up just as successfully during the filming of Skyfall instead of the expensive original
sintering (SLS and DMLS) and smelting (SLM), which allow you to create all-metal parts. As with 3D inkjet printing, these devices apply thin layers of powder, but the material is not glued together, but sintered or melted using a laser. Laser sintering (SLS) is used to work with both plastic and metal powders, although metal pellets usually have a more fusible shell, and after printing they are additionally sintered in special ovens. DMLS is a variant of SLS installations with more powerful lasers that allow sintering metal powders directly without additives. SLM printers provide not just sintering of particles, but their complete melting, which allows you to create monolithic models that do not suffer from the relative fragility caused by the porosity of the structure. As a rule, printers for working with metal powders are equipped with vacuum working chambers, or they replace air with inert gases. Such a complication of the design is caused by the need to work with metals and alloys subject to oxidation - for example, with titanium.
Stereolithography
How an SLA printer works
Stereolithography printers use special liquid materials called "photopolymer resins". The term "photopolymerization" refers to the ability of a material to harden when exposed to light. As a rule, such materials react to ultraviolet irradiation.
Resin is poured into a special container with a movable platform, which is installed in a position near the surface of the liquid. The layer of resin covering the platform corresponds to one layer of the digital model. Then a thin layer of resin is processed by a laser beam, hardening at the points of contact. At the end of illumination, the platform together with the finished layer is immersed to the thickness of the next layer, and illumination is performed again.
Lamination
Laminating (LOM) 3D printers workflow
Some 3D printers build models using sheet materials - paper, foil, plastic film.
Layers of material are glued on top of each other and cut to the contours of the digital model using a laser or a blade.
These machines are well suited for prototyping and can use very cheap consumables, including regular office paper. However, the complexity and noise of these printers, coupled with the limitations of the models they produce, limit their popularity.
Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) and Laser Stereolithography (SLA) are the most popular 3D printing methods used in the home and office.
Let's take a closer look at these technologies.
Fused Deposition Printing (FDM)
FDM is perhaps the simplest and most affordable 3D construction method, which makes it very popular.
High demand for FDM printers is driving device and consumable prices down rapidly, along with technology advances towards ease of use and improved reliability.
Consumables
ABS filament spool and finished model
FDM printers are designed to print with thermoplastics, which are usually supplied as thin filaments wound on spools. The range of "clean" plastics is very wide. One of the most popular materials is polylactide or "PLA plastic". This material is made from corn or sugar cane, which makes it non-toxic and environmentally friendly, but makes it relatively short-lived. ABS plastic, on the other hand, is very durable and wear-resistant, although it is susceptible to direct sunlight and can release small amounts of harmful fumes when heated. Many plastic items that we use on a daily basis are made from this material: housings for household appliances, plumbing fixtures, plastic cards, toys, etc.
In addition to PLA and ABS, printing is possible with nylon, polycarbonate, polyethylene and many other thermoplastics that are widely used in modern industry. More exotic materials are also possible, such as polyvinyl alcohol, known as "PVA plastic". This material dissolves in water, which makes it very useful for printing complex geometric patterns. But more on that below.
Model made from Laywoo-D3. Changing the extrusion temperature allows you to achieve different shades and simulate annual rings
It is not necessary to print with homogeneous plastics. It is also possible to use composite materials imitating wood, metals, stone. Such materials use all the same thermoplastics, but with impurities of non-plastic materials.
So, Laywoo-D3 consists partly of natural wood dust, which allows you to print "wooden" products, including furniture.
The material called BronzeFill is filled with real bronze, and models made from it can be ground and polished, achieving a high similarity to products made from pure bronze.
One has only to remember that thermoplastics serve as a binding element in composite materials - they determine the thresholds of strength, thermal stability and other physical and chemical properties of finished models.
Extruder
Extruder - FDM print head. Strictly speaking, this is not entirely true, because the head consists of several parts, of which only the feed mechanism is directly "extruder". However, by tradition, the term "extruder" is commonly used as a synonym for the entire print assembly.
FDM extruder general design
The extruder is designed for melting and applying thermoplastic thread. The first component is the thread feed mechanism, which consists of rollers and gears driven by an electric motor. The mechanism feeds the thread into a special heated metal tube with a small diameter nozzle, called a "hot end" or simply a "nozzle". The same mechanism is used to remove the thread if a change of material is needed.
The hot end is used to heat and melt the thread fed by the puller. As a rule, nozzles are made from brass or aluminum, although more heat-resistant, but also more expensive materials can be used. For printing with the most popular plastics, a brass nozzle is quite enough. The “nozzle” itself is attached to the end of the tube with a threaded connection and can be replaced with a new one in case of wear or if a change in diameter is necessary. The nozzle diameter determines the thickness of the molten filament and, as a result, affects the print resolution. The heating of the hot end is controlled by a thermistor. Temperature control is very important, because when the material is overheated, pyrolysis can occur, that is, the decomposition of plastic, which contributes both to the loss of the properties of the material itself and to clogging of the nozzle.
PrintBox3D One FDM Printer Extruder
To prevent the filament from melting too early, the top of the hot end is cooled by heatsinks and fans. This point is of great importance, since thermoplastics that pass the glass transition temperature significantly expand in volume and increase the friction of the material with the walls of the hot end. If the length of such a section is too long, the pulling mechanism may not have enough strength to push the thread.
The number of extruders may vary depending on the purpose of the 3D printer. The simplest options use a single print head. The dual extruder greatly expands the capabilities of the device, allowing you to print one model in two different colors, as well as using different materials. The last point is important when building complex models with overhanging structural elements: FDM printers cannot print “over the air”, since the applied layers require support. In the case of hinged elements, temporary support structures have to be printed, which are removed after printing is completed. The removal process is fraught with damage to the model itself and requires accuracy. In addition, if the model has a complex structure with internal cavities that are difficult to access, building conventional supports may not be practical due to the difficulty in removing excess material.
Finished model with PVA supports (white) before and after washing
In such cases, the same water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) comes in handy. Using a dual extruder, you can build a model from waterproof thermoplastic using PVA to create supports.
After printing, PVA can be simply dissolved in water and a complex product of perfect quality can be obtained.
Some FDM printers can use three or even four extruders.
Working platform
Heated platform covered with removable glass work table
Models are built on a special platform, often equipped with heating elements. Preheating is required for a wide range of plastics, including the popular ABS, which are subject to a high degree of shrinkage when cooled. The rapid loss of volume by cold coats compared to freshly applied material can lead to model distortion or delamination. The heating of the platform makes it possible to significantly equalize the temperature gradient between the upper and lower layers.
Heating is not recommended for some materials. A typical example is PLA plastic, which requires a fairly long time to harden. Heating PLA can lead to deformation of the lower layers under the weight of the upper ones. When working with PLA, measures are usually taken not to heat up, but to cool the model. Such printers have characteristic open cases and additional fans blowing fresh layers of the model.
Calibration screw for work platform covered with blue masking tape
The platform needs to be calibrated before printing to ensure that the nozzle does not hit the applied layers and move too far causing air-to-air printing resulting in plastic vermicelli. The calibration process can be either manual or automatic. In manual mode, calibration is performed by positioning the nozzle at different points on the platform and adjusting the platform inclination using the support screws to achieve the optimal distance between the surface and the nozzle.
As a rule, platforms are equipped with an additional element - a removable table. This design simplifies the cleaning of the working surface and facilitates the removal of the finished model. Stages are made from various materials, including aluminum, acrylic, glass, etc. The choice of material for the manufacture of the stage depends on the presence of heating and consumables for which the printer is optimized.
For a better adhesion of the first layer of the model to the surface of the table, additional tools are often used, including polyimide film, glue and even hairspray! But the most popular tool is inexpensive, but effective masking tape. Some manufacturers make perforated tables that hold the model well but are difficult to clean. In general, the expediency of applying additional funds to the table depends on the consumable material and the material of the table itself.
Positioning mechanisms
Scheme of operation of positioning mechanisms
Of course, the print head must move relative to the working platform, and unlike conventional office printers, positioning must be carried out not in two, but in three planes, including height adjustment.
Positioning pattern may vary. The simplest and most common option involves mounting the print head on perpendicular guides driven by stepper motors and providing positioning along the X and Y axes.
Vertical positioning is carried out by moving the working platform.
On the other hand, it is possible to move the extruder in one plane and the platforms in two.
SeemeCNC ORION Delta Printer
One option that is gaining popularity is the delta coordinate system.
Such devices are called "delta robots" in the industry.
In delta printers, the print head is suspended on three manipulators, each of which moves along a vertical rail.
The synchronous symmetrical movement of the manipulators allows you to change the height of the extruder above the platform, and the asymmetric movement causes the head to move in the horizontal plane.
A variant of this system is the reverse delta design, where the extruder is fixed to the ceiling of the working chamber, and the platform moves on three support arms.
Delta printers have a cylindrical build area, and their design makes it easy to increase the height of the working area with minimal design changes by extending the rails.
In the end, everything depends on the decision of the designers, but the fundamental principle does not change.
Control
Typical Arduino-based controller with add-on modules
The operation of the FDM printer, including nozzle and platform temperature, filament feed rate, and stepper motors for positioning the extruder, is controlled by fairly simple electronic controllers. Most controllers are based on the Arduino platform, which has an open architecture.
The programming language used by the printers is called G-code (G-Code) and consists of a list of commands executed in turn by the 3D printer systems. G-code is compiled by programs called "slicers" - standard 3D printer software that combines some of the features of graphics editors with the ability to set print options through a graphical interface. The choice of slicer depends on the printer model. RepRap printers use open source slicers such as Skeinforge, Replicator G and Repetier-Host. Some companies make printers that require proprietary software.
Program code for printing is generated using slicers
As an example, we can mention Cube printers from 3D Systems. There are companies that offer proprietary software but allow third-party software, as is the case with the latest generation of MakerBot 3D printers.
Slicers are not intended for 3D design per se. This task is done with CAD editors and requires some 3D design skills. Although beginners should not despair: digital models of a wide variety of designs are offered on many sites, often even for free. Finally, some companies and individuals offer 3D design services for custom printing.
Finally, 3D printers can be used in conjunction with 3D scanners to automate the process of digitizing objects. Many of these devices are designed specifically to work with 3D printers. Notable examples include the 3D Systems Sense handheld scanner and the MakerBot Digitizer handheld desktop scanner.
MakerBot Replicator 5th Generation FDM Printer with built-in control module on the top of the frame
The user interface of a 3D printer can consist of a simple USB port for connecting to a personal computer. In such cases, the device is actually controlled by the slicer.
The disadvantage of this simplification is a rather high probability of printing failure when the computer freezes or slows down.
A more advanced option includes an internal memory or memory card interface to make the process standalone.
These models are equipped with control modules that allow you to adjust many print parameters (such as print speed or extrusion temperature). The module may include a small LCD display or even a mini-tablet.
Varieties of FDM printers
Professional Stratasys Fortus 360mc FDM printer that allows printing with nylon
FDM printers are very, very diverse, ranging from the simplest homemade RepRap printers to industrial installations capable of printing large-sized objects.
Stratasys, founded by Scott Crump, the inventor of FDM technology, is a leader in the production of industrial installations.
You can build the simplest FDM printers yourself. Such devices are called RepRap, where "Rep" indicates the possibility of "replication", that is, self-reproduction.
RepRap printers can be used to print custom built plastic parts.
Controller, rails, belts, motors and other components can be easily purchased separately.
Of course, assembling such a device on your own requires serious technical and even engineering skills.
Some manufacturers make it easy by selling DIY kits, but these kits still require a good understanding of the technology. RepRap Printers
And, despite their "homemade nature", RepRap printers are quite capable of producing models with quality at the level of expensive branded counterparts.
Ordinary users who do not want to delve into the intricacies of the process, but require only a convenient device for household use, can purchase a ready-made FDM printer.
Many companies are focusing on the development of the consumer market segment, offering 3D printers for sale that are ready to print “right out of the box” and do not require serious computer skills.
3D Systems Cube consumer 3D printer
The most famous example of a consumer 3D printer is the 3D Systems Cube.
While it doesn't boast a huge build area, ultra-fast print speeds, or superb build quality, it's easy to use, affordable, and safe: This printer has received the necessary certification to be used even by children.
Mankati FDM printer demonstration: http://youtu.be/51rypJIK4y0
Laser Stereolithography (SLA)
Stereolithographic 3D printers are widely used in dental prosthetics
Stereolithographic printers are the second most popular and widespread after FDM printers.
These units deliver exceptional print quality.
The resolution of some SLA printers is measured in a matter of microns - it is not surprising that these devices quickly won the love of jewelers and dentists.
The software side of laser stereolithography is almost identical to FDM printing, so we will not repeat ourselves and will only touch on the distinctive features of the technology.
Lasers and projectors
Projector illumination of a photopolymer model using Kudo3D Titan DLP printer as an example
The cost of stereolithography printers is rapidly declining due to growing competition due to high demand and the use of new technologies that reduce the cost of construction.
Although the technology is generically referred to as "laser" stereolithography, most recent developments use UV LED projectors for the most part.
Projectors are cheaper and more reliable than lasers, do not require the use of delicate mirrors to deflect the laser beam, and have higher performance. The latter is explained by the fact that the contour of the whole layer is illuminated as a whole, and not sequentially, point by point, as is the case with laser options. This variant of the technology is called projection stereolithography, "DLP-SLA" or simply "DLP". However, both options are currently common - both laser and projector versions.
Cuvette and resin
Photopolymer resin is poured into a cuvette
A photopolymer resin that looks like epoxy is used as consumables for stereolithography printers. Resins can have a variety of characteristics, but they all share one key feature for 3D printing applications: these materials harden when exposed to ultraviolet light. Hence, in fact, the name "photopolymer".
When polymerized, resins can have a wide variety of physical characteristics. Some resins are like rubber, others are hard plastics like ABS. You can choose different colors and degrees of transparency. The main disadvantage of resins and SLA printing in general is the cost of consumables, which significantly exceeds the cost of thermoplastics.
On the other hand, stereolithography printers are mainly used by jewelers and dentists who do not need to build large parts but appreciate the savings from fast and accurate prototyping. Thus, SLA printers and consumables pay for themselves very quickly.
Example of a model printed on a laser stereolithographic 3D printer
Resin is poured into a cuvette, which can be equipped with a lowering platform. In this case, the printer uses a leveling device to flatten the thin layer of resin covering the platform just prior to irradiation. As the model is being made, the platform, together with the finished layers, is “embedded” in the resin. Upon completion of printing, the model is removed from the cuvette, treated with a special solution to remove liquid resin residues and placed in an ultraviolet oven, where the final illumination of the model is performed.
Some SLA and DLP printers work in an "inverted" scheme: the model is not immersed in the consumable, but "pulled" out of it, while the laser or projector is placed under the cuvette, and not above it. This approach eliminates the need to level the surface after each exposure, but requires the use of a cuvette made of a material transparent to ultraviolet light, such as quartz glass.
The accuracy of stereolithographic printers is extremely high. For comparison, the standard for vertical resolution for FDM printers is considered to be 100 microns, and some variants of SLA printers allow you to apply layers as thin as 15 microns. But this is not the limit. The problem, rather, is not so much in the accuracy of lasers, but in the speed of the process: the higher the resolution, the lower the print speed. The use of digital projectors allows you to significantly speed up the process, because each layer is illuminated entirely. As a result, some DLP printer manufacturers claim to be able to print with a vertical resolution of one micron!
Video from CES 2013 showing Formlabs Form1 stereolithography 3D printer in action: http://youtu.be/IjaUasw64VE
Stereolithography Printer Options
Formlabs Form1 Desktop Stereolithography Printer
As with FDM printers, SLA printers come in a wide range in terms of size, features and cost. Professional installations can cost tens if not hundreds of thousands of dollars and weigh a couple of tons, but the rapid development of desktop SLA and DLP printers is gradually reducing the cost of equipment without compromising print quality.
Models such as the Titan 1 promise to make stereolithographic 3D printing affordable for small businesses and even home use at around $1,000. Formlabs' Form 1 is available now for a factory selling price of $3,299.
The developer of the DLP printer Peachy generally intends to overcome the lower price barrier of $100.
At the same time, the cost of photopolymer resins remains quite high, although the average price has fallen from $150 to $50 per liter over the past couple of years.
Of course, the growing demand for stereolithographic printers will stimulate the growth in the production of consumables, which will lead to further price reductions.
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Choosing the best 3D printer for printing miniatures
3DPrintStory    Reviews     Choosing the best 3D printer for printing miniatures
The use of 3D printers for printing game miniatures is gaining more and more popularity today. As the price of 3D printers continues to fall, it is likely that the demand for 3D printed game miniatures will only continue to rise.
If you pick the right 3D printer, you can get amazing 3D models for your board games or to put an inspirational figurine from your favorite game on your desktop.
Today's desktop 3D printers have become reliable, easy to use and deliver decent quality finished products.
How to choose a 3D miniature printer?
There is a wide range of desktop 3D printers that can be used to print miniatures in 3D at home. And if you study the market a bit, or at least the options below, you can get great detailed 3D models.
With the right 3D printer, you can print your own figurines and even create your own board games.
If you don't want to design 3D models of figurines from scratch (and this will really require some skills and time from you), then you can find interesting 3D models on sites with free 3D printable models. After downloading the model, you can immediately print it or edit it before 3D printing for your own needs. We also recommend that you familiarize yourself with interesting 3D models from Dutchmogul. Perhaps in his wonderful collection you will find something interesting for yourself.
To get the same level of detail as the thumbnails above, your 3D printer must meet certain criteria. The most important feature of a 3D printer to consider is the level of detail it can reproduce. This criterion is formed based on the following parameters:
Nozzle diameter
To create a 3D miniature, heated plastic is extruded through a hole. Orifice is the diameter of the nozzle. Make sure the 3D printer nozzle size is less than 0.4mm.
XY Movement Accuracy
The X and Y axis movement accuracy of the 3D printer head must be taken into account. To get a more detailed model, you need to reduce the layer thickness. However, the low thickness means that 3D printing will take longer. In order to print a detailed miniature, you will most likely need a 3D printer that can print with layer thicknesses of 100 microns (0.1 mm) or less.
Material type
The most common materials used in 3D printers are ABS or PLA. To get a good surface, after 3D printing, it should be post-processed. If you are using ABS plastic, you can sand the miniature and steam it in acetone to get a smooth surface. It is also worth paying attention to PETG plastics, which are gaining more and more attention and positive user reviews.
Thumbnail size (scale)
If you want to start 3D printing game miniatures, think about the size you would like to get.
A 28 mm (scale ~ 1:58) or 54 mm (scale ~ 1:32) miniature can be made with a standard desktop 3D printer that melts plastic filament. To make a smaller miniature, you will need an SLA Resin printer, which uses liquid resin and strengthens it.
In addition to the figurine, you can also print larger models. 3D printing large models such as houses, huts, castles, trees, and tanks will require more expensive 3D printers that provide faster speeds with good 3D print quality. But there is an important point in the choice. It is better to choose high-quality 3D printing than a large one. You can always separate larger models for printing and then join them together using the same adhesive. The result will be much better than lower quality 3D printing on a 3D printer with a large workspace.
HICTOP CR-10S 3D printer
Value for money, the Hictop CR-10S is one of the best and most affordable budget 3D printers on the market. The Prusa i3 3D printer was taken as the basis for the design.
The Hictop printer uses quality materials for the power supply, motherboard and motion control systems. The metal framework is a rigid and strong design.
The Hictop printer will arrive unassembled, but assembly is easy. You will have to essentially screw in four bolts and connect the necessary wires. That is, you can proceed directly to 3D printing almost immediately after purchase.
The "S" at the end of the CR-10S stands for two Z-axis lead screws and stepper motors.
Dual axis system improves extruder movement accuracy. As a result, you naturally get more accurate 3D printing overall. This is an excellent inexpensive 3D printer that is suitable for 3D printing miniatures and figurines for board games.
The Hictop 3D printer has a mechanism to control the remaining amount of plastic. If the plastic runs out, the printer will go into pause mode and after feeding new material, you can continue printing from the area where you left off. This is a particularly relevant feature for printing large-scale 3D models.
These 3D printers are quite popular, so you will find a lot of information and tips on how to use them online. In addition, thanks to an active community, the Hictop CR-10S has a large number of modifications and upgrades that you can implement yourself and improve its already decent 3D printing quality.
Hictop CR-10S is a quality and affordable 3D printer, which is definitely suitable for 3D printing miniatures and figures of characters from your favorite games or movies.
FLASHFORGE CREATOR PRO 3D printer
FlashForge 3D Printer Creator Pro took inspiration from Makerbot Replica.
A nice feature of the FlashForge 3D printer is that it includes all custom enhancements from Makerbot. These upgrades include:
- Metal desktop supports. Thus, the working table became more stable during heating and assembling.
- Plastic-coated knobs for easy workbench calibration.
- The Central Processing Unit (CPU) supports Sailfish firmware which allows automatic calibration. In addition, the CPU helps regulate heat and delivers higher quality 3D prints.
The above features make the Creator Pro an excellent miniature 3D printer.
In addition, this 3D printer is made in a closed case, which allows you to print ABS plastic with much less difficulty.
With Creator Pro, you can print two colors at the same time. If you plan to paint the finished model in the future, then you don’t really need this feature, but in general it gives you much more options than the standard analogues with one extruder.
Since the Creator Pro is based on the Makerbot Replica, there is a lot of information available on the internet about this 3D printer.
3D printer SINDOH DP200 3DWOX
If you are looking for a reliable 3D printer for printing miniatures, then you should pay attention to Sindoh DP200 3DWOX. This is the best choice if you want to make 3D mini figures.
This 3D printer is easy to use, suitable even for beginners in the world of 3D printing. Below are some of its features:
- 3D printing table covered with aluminum PTFE.
- 3D printing resolution is 50 microns (0.05 mm).
- Equipped with a high efficiency particulate air filter and a closed chamber for 3D printing, which is especially good when using ABS plastics.
- Easy to use material cartridge chamber.
- Sindoh excels at printing minifigures in high detail.
One of the disadvantages of the Sindoh DP200 printer is that it can only use manufacturer's filament. Consequently, you will pay more money for cartridges because you will not be able to use materials from other manufacturers. The price of these cartridges, of course, is higher than analogues.
Otherwise, the Sindoh DP200 3DWOX 3D printer is a great option for high quality 3D printing of detailed models.
DREMEL DIGILAB 3D Printer
The use of SLA technology for 3D printing helps to obtain miniature products of very high quality. SLA also helps print miniature parts as small as 28mm. The price of this wonderful 3D printer is comparable to the cost of a laptop.
SLA printing differs from FFF printing in the very essence of the processes. During SLA 3D printing, liquid resin is baked using a UV laser. The formation of the part looks like a gradual lifting of the finished model and a bath with liquid material.
Industry-intensive stereolithographic 3D printers are now available at home! The Dremel Digilab 3D printer has proven itself as a hobby printer, which differs from expensive industrial analogues in its exceptionally smaller workspace.
Key Features of the Dremel Digilab 3D Printer:
- Minimum wall thickness of the 3D model is 25 µm (0.025mm).
- Faster 3D printing than FFF 3D printers.
- Excellent surface quality of the finished 3D model.
Digilab is a great SLA 3D printer. It is easy to use and, according to user reviews, reliable.
With this 3D printer you can use resins to make investment casting molds. It can also be used to make jewelry by casting metals.
Some disadvantages of using SLA for 3D printing:
- It's expensive. The resin needs to be updated, as over time it ages and loses the necessary properties.
- Resins require maintenance. Make sure you start 3D printing only after the balloons created by adding resin to the tank are gone.
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