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Z603 3d printer
JGAurora Z-603S 3D printer [The Unofficial JGMaker (& JGAurora) Wiki]
Table of Contents
JGAurora Z-603S 3D printer
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Useful Links:
Where to buy:
About the printer
Versions
Assembly & Setup Tips
Reviews
Manual
Firmware
Modifications & Upgrades
Troubleshooting
Z-603S Specific Troubleshooting
General Troubleshooting
Maintenance
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Useful Links:
Facebook Community
Z-603S section on JGAurora Forum
Thingiverse Community
Spare Parts at JGAurora on Amazon
Where to buy:
Amazon is strongly recommended - they have the best customer service, the most careful delivery service and the best return policy. However, the cheapest store is typically GearBest or Banggood, and by paying with PayPal you still have some recourse if things go wrong.
JGAurora Official AliExpress Store
Amazon USA
Gearbest
DealExtreme
GeekBuying
About the printer
The JGAurora Z-603S was one of the first printers that you could buy that worked well quite out of the box, with only very minimal assembly required. It has excellent print quality, and is a very reliable printer.
Released in 2014, while not a recently launched model, the printer is still good value, and the frame is very rigid. It is a good competitor to options like the genuine Prusa i3, and the FolgerTech FT5 - and you can be printing out of the box quite easily and quickly, as it comes preassembled. If you like a kit printer approach, the FT5 is possibly a better printer overall for around the same price, with the advantage that by assembling the printer yourself, you can become more familiar with the inner workings of the printer. Compared with the pre-assembled Prusa i3 the Z-603S is cheaper, but lacks many of the Prusa's clever features, like the removable bed, or auto bed levelling probe.
The Z-603S has its origins in JGAurora's 2nd generation product, the Z-603, but with significant improvements in every area. JGAurora has also made several revisions to the product since its release. In particular, early models came with poor wiring, and a half-finished motherboard design, but JGAurora significantly improved the quality of the wiring and motherboard in the second major revision.
The printer has several good attributes:
Excellent print quality
Great large print volume
Strong stable metal frame
Excellent quality MeanWell power supply
Excellent OMRON brand opto-switches for endstops - precise and very repeatable.
LED under hotend
(newest revision only, 2016+) Good quality motherboard
(newest revision only, 2016+) Good high quality cabling
The printer has several bad attributes:
No source code provided for Marlin Open Source GPL firmware!
No auto bed-levelling probe
Warped beds are common in the early models at least.
Poor cable management, no drag chains.
Poor strain relief at print head, prone to fatigue failure at print head over long term use.
Frustrating print head design makes it tedious to clean extruder gear, or to insert new filament (unguided filament path).
Not easy to service. Well made, but many things hidden away behind many screws.
Versions
The Z-603S has come in at least two models. The first model had a blue JGAurora motherboard marked “erwo” and cheap quality wiring. The 2nd edition of this printer featured significantly better quality wiring, and came with a new green JGAurora motherboard. Photos of the motherboards can be seen here. Apart from the higher quality of the green motherboard, there are some pinout changes on the board making the firmware incompatible between the two. Also, there was a change in the stepper drivers from the THB6128 to the THB7128 (by Sanyo) with substantially improved cooling with the addition of a very nice large heatsink!
Assembly & Setup Tips
Inspect the printer thoroughly before use.
Check all the screws you can access are tight, and that the axis all move smoothly.
Reviews
There are only a few independant video reviews on youtube for the Z-603S:
The Hot End
Product Reviews
Manual
Original JGAurora Z-603S manual
Firmware
See this page for information on upgrading the firmware
Smoother printer movement for better surface printing quality
Faster and more accurate homing procedure
Much better calibration of extruder motor for more accurate filament delivery
Fewer bugs because of latest version of Marlin software (no more random printer resets in the middle of a print!)
Full source code to enable mods and enhancements
Modifications & Upgrades
Bed Leveling Probe
Sealing the Enclosure: Acrylic Sides & Lid
Adding a cast aluminium printer bed
How to enable manual mesh bed levelling - get perfect first layers, even for warped beds!
Removable Bed Build Plate
Flexible filament upgrade insert
DIY Enclosure (by DevilClarke)
3D Printer Parts
Corners
Handles
Hinges
Laser Cut Parts
Coming Soon
Troubleshooting
Z-603S Specific Troubleshooting
Are your prints not sticking to the bed?
General Troubleshooting
Is your printer not heating up?
Download the free software Pronterface (AKA Printrun).
With this software, you can connect to your printer from a computer, using a USB cable, and even print gcode files over the cable. This software will show you the raw log out of the printer, which is where any major errors are reported. You can then search the error you see in google, or ask on one of the JGAurora Support groups.
Maintenance
Hot End Assembly [Todo]
[Review] Aurora Z603s 3D Printer Review (Updated 5/10/15) – Samuel Pinches
English Manufacturer Websites: Aurora Z603S and JGAurora Z-603S
Z603S NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITH Z603 3D PRINTER
Z603S printer costs a lot more, but is MUCH better in every way than Z603.
I’ll be updating this page with new info as I get time.
If you have of these printers I would be really interested to hear your experiences too!
In March 2015 I bought a JG Aurora Z603s 3D printer (also listed as Z-603S), and I thought I would write some content to introduce this great printer to the English speaking world, telling you why it is precisely at the sweet spot of value for money, and why you should probably buy one [EDIT: Have a read through, and then see the update 26/9/15 at the end of this article.
TLDR; I no longer recommend this printer]. It was a major risk to buy one, as I couldn’t find a single review on the web! As it turns out, overall, I was pretty lucky.
My thoughts before buying…
When I started looking for my next 3D printer I first checked out some of the lists for other recommended models. I had expected by now, that some cheaply produced chinese printer would be dominating the market, but was surprised that this was not the case. (at the time it was 2015 you see, and the Ender 3 did not exist yet…) The flashforge creator pro would probably be the closest to this, but coming from a prusa, the very small bed size put me off. Dual extruder support is also a temporary gimmick in my opinion – the diamond hotend is where things will be heading in the future. The flash forge starts at about $1500AU, delivered to my door. At that price, I was considering the delta printers, but I think unless you enjoy calibration hell, give those ones a year or two before the cost comes down and the quirks are all sorted out.
So, what was I to do? I visited a local who had a low-cost Davinci, but the low quality of the prints and small non-heated bed size put me right off.
I started to search for lesser-known printers. From what I observed from the 3D hubs list, an enclosed metal frame was key for achieving consistent, precise, fast prints. I wanted a 180×180 bed minimum size, and a cost of under $1500 AU. I searched many of the chinese/hong-kong sites, like dealextreme, geekbuying, gearbest, tinydeal, dealsmachine, aliexpress, and of course, eBay. I tried to find out the history behind each printer. A couple of the kickstarter printers had gone off to be excellent, while others turned out to be relative duds. I was happy not to be an early adopter for once 🙂
The Z603 3D printer stood out like a sore thumb – nothing at all like the Z603 exists with its solid folded sheet metal and welded frame. Initially I couldn’t find any reliable info or reviews on it, but it looked interesting.
My early google searching turned up very little info, as I did not know the brand name, and the Z603S printer seemed like a variant that, judging by its more limited availability, had just launched as a minor update – probably early this year. I figured it would be interesting, and if worst came to worst, I could use the metal frame and motors, and replace the electronics with my own equipment scavenged from my old prusa (RIP). I took the plunge and ordered from geekbuying.com. I found a 5% coupon, which took off close to $50 bucks, which took the price down to under $1300AU! Communication and shipping was a bit slow for a few weeks after ordering, but I called up geekbuying (they have people who speak english!), and eventually it was sent off using DHL and arrived less than a week later after calling them up.
The Z603S 3D Printer Review
The GoodThe all-metal construction is excellent, and the precision of the moving components is great, with GT2 belts, sensible 0.
4mm nozzle, 1.75mm filament, and proper leadscrew for the z-axis, none of that “threaded rod” nonsense I had on my Prusa Mendel. For the price I paid (under $1300 AU at my door, and customs didn’t fleece me even for a holey-dollar which was strange for a change!) it is really excellent. I have to wonder if it competes with some of the other dual extruder printers on ebay, but the very solid welded metal construction of this printer makes a significant difference in printing quality, and a WORLD of difference compared to the wobbly-as-jelly-prusa I used to have. The motor drivers are NOT going to skip steps, and provide plenty of oomph to make the printer whizz precisely, while at a decent rate.
I am really happy with the print quality I get out of this printer. 0.1mm/0.2mm layers are trivially easy, but I have done 0.05mm layers easily too. Check out my print hub for photos of things as I print them.
The BadThe printer has no english documentation. Google translate or bust.
(EDIT: 5/10/15 – talking to the manufacturer they claim it does come with english documentation, but the supplier might have forgotten to include it). Thankfully, it behaves just like any reprap, and works fine with Cura, ReplicatorG, or Pronterface. The motherboard (Aurora Erwo) is a custom board – and there is no documentation, or info on spare parts anywhere that I could find. I’ll talk about this later on. The nozzle also doesn’t look easily replaceable, so I’m hoping that it holds up ok. (EDIT: 5/10/15 the nozzle is solid metal which is good, but required taking apart the entire hotend/extruder head to be able to clean it.
The warped bed
The biggest issue I had with the Z603S was with the heated bed – it’s just not flat. The bed is made of 5mm, black, anodised aluminium, which looks fantastic. However, mine was out a good 0.3mm full deflection, which as you might imagine, caused major issues when trying to level the bed for printing! I would have tried to bend it, but the warp is like a bowl, with a dip in the middle of the plate.
I contacted geekbuying, and was told that this was “within spec” by their engineer… sure, 0.3mm bend is fine on a 0.1mm layer printer… really funny guys! But alas, when you buy direct from China, you don’t expect any warranty service…
The solution I currently use is to put a flat sheet of 3mm glass I had cut at minimal cost at my local glazier’s, which has not only given me a perfectly flat surface, but also, glass is an excellent surface for 3D printing. No need for abs juice/kapton tape/blue painters tape – PLA seems to stick really well on cleaned (I use metho) glass surfaces, and it gives a nice surface finish to the base of the print.
Firmware issues
The printer works well out of the box, but I found that it would freeze up after about 15 hours or so, when printing on very high resolution and very large parts – which was naturally, very, very frustrating! All the prints (even with slightly tweaked designs) failed at the same point in the print, so after validating that the G-Code was ok, I was confident that it was a printer firmware problem.
The printer is shipped with a marlin firmware (hooray!) that reports back to be v1.0.0, and marlin 1.0.3 is currently in development over at the marlin website, so I thought I would try and see if a firmware update was available.
A bit of google searching later, now equipped with the brand name and more information, I found their home pages (old, and new) – almost all in Chinese (thanks Google Translate…). Since then it looks like Aurora finally have a basic english website here, and an english variant of their main website here. I tried contacting numerous international phone numbers over Skype, and I managed to get in touch with them. I set about asking for the firmware source code, but they were not happy about complying with the GPL, stating “company policy” as a reason not to provide their modified source code – I figured that trying to twist their arm was pointless, it definitely wouldn’t be the first time a Chinese company has disrespected the rules of GPL.
Instead, I gave up an entire weekend, broke out the continuity tester (the only good feature on my cheaper multimeter – the Excel XL830), and managed to pin-out the entire device, and, successfully upload my own working Marlin firmware!
If you have the Z603S printer and are having similar issues, or just want to try the latest marlin firmware – let me know, and I can provide you with a custom firmware – GPL source included :-). For the time it took to get this going (many, many hours…), if this helps you out, hitting the chai latte button on the side is always appreciated and very encouraging that I’m not the only one interested in hacking tweaking these interesting printers!
UPDATED 26/9/15
A long story short, a wire broke at a motor connector while printing, and this break killed one of the 4 motor drivers. Since these are soldered on, a complete motherboard replacement is necessary!! The yellow goop in the photo came from the factory to hold the cables in place firmly.
This is especially unfortunate for this printer, as this is a custom motherboard and the quote from the manufacturer for a replacement motherboard was $160USD posted.
I would strongly caution about using motherboards with non-replacable motor drivers in ANY 3D printer. Wires in the moving parts will inevitably fail over time, it is unavoidable. This is the second time I have had a motor wire fail, but last time didn’t kill the driver – this time I’ve clearly been unlucky. The non-replacable driver design is just a (costly) ticking time-bomb.
The wires used on the printer seem to be of cheap quality too, the sleeving is stiff and a bit brittle, and the wire appears to be fairly thin gauge (20AWG) aluminium not copper. The wiring design and spiral sleeving is also very time consuming to remove from the frame and reroute once repaired.
While I may attempt to repair this board down the track, at this stage I am going to switch to the RUMBA motherboard that allows for easy driver replacement, as I don’t want to have to deal with the kind of inconvenience this failure has caused ever again!
The drivers used are very nice Sanyo drivers, they have the capability to do micro stepping up to 1/128, but the ATMEL MEGA2560 does not have enough processing power to do more than 1/32 stepping, but at least 1/32 is still OK.
I am looking into using RAPS128 poloulu-style REPLACABLE drivers as these have the same motor drivers as this printer, using a RUMBA motherboard with RepRapDiscount Graphic Controller until I can find the time to make a custom cable for the unique Z603-S display panel.
I’m now several months into using this printer, and I am convinced that a very sturdy frame, and a welded one no less, is valuable in providing accurate and precise 3D prints. I am slightly disappointed with the rigidity of the bed attaching to the the Z-axis, there is a fair bit of slop in the x and y directions there but as the prints are generally great I’m going to say its not a major issue.
However…
I no longer recommend buying this printer.As I see it, the main flaws of the Z603-S printer are:
- Proprietary motherboard with non-replacable motor drivers
- Poor design of the cable routing and strain relief.
- Difficulty in servicing and replacing worn out wires
- Major out of the box issues – warped bed, unstable firmware.
- Cheap quality wiring
To be fair, the printer has some significant strengths:
- Good rigid frame, capable of 40µm layers.
- Good reliable metal hotend – I have been through 100’s of hours of printing without jamming.
- Solid motor drivers – no issues with slipping extruder or skipping steps.
- Precise optocouplers
Aurora have since released a new printer model the A-8 (see here and here), and while it is more expensive, it at least appears to have better cable management using cable snakes, but I have not seen it and cannot comment on whether any of the major issues in this printer (like difficult repairability) have been fixed. Without any reviews available on the internet, you buy it at your risk as I did for this one.
Z603S Hardware Info- Motherboard: Custom “Aurora erwo” – rev v1.03 2014/12/08
- Unpopulated pads on the board make it look like it would support two extruders, but close examination of the board indicates that they haven’t finished the design – a couple of key PCB traces to the 5th stepper driver pads appear to be missing.
- The standoffs on the board is a non-standard layout, so replacing the motherboard with a different board may be impossible to mount in the same way.
- Unpopulated pads on the board make it look like it would support two extruders, but close examination of the board indicates that they haven’t finished the design – a couple of key PCB traces to the 5th stepper driver pads appear to be missing.
- Stepper Driver: THB6128
- Decent heatsinks attached with silicone thermal adhesive.
- Small fan circulates air over the heatsinks – excellent!
- USB Interface: FTDI 1445-C
- Processor: Atmel 2560 (Arduino Mega)
- Power: Meanwell 24V PSU
- 24V fans, bed and extruder, mosfet controllers
- Print bed: heated, approx 280x180x180mm in size.
- Optical endstops (OMRON EE-SX674A) at minimums
- GT2 Belts, metal GT2 pulleys
- Makerbot style extruder, 0.4mm nozzle
- Display/SD: Pinout from 2560 processor is same as RepRapDiscount Smart Controller
- Except, the SD card slot is included on the motherboard, while the LCD and buttons are on a cable.
- Control panel has a STMicroelectronics 8s003f3p6 8-bit Microcontroller
- Appears to be doing some button debouncing and control of the front panel buttons for the fan and LED light.
- Appears to be doing some button debouncing and control of the front panel buttons for the fan and LED light.
Motherboard Front
Motherboard Rear
Atmel 2560 pins (Arduino numbering shown in red)
Motherboard Header Connector Pinout
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Aurora Labs S-Titanium Pro Metal 3D Printer Mini Review / Habr
Hello! This is a mini review of the Aurora Labs S-Titanium Pro, a 3D printer that prints metal by fusing or laser sintering powder particles into a single whole.
S-Titanium Pro
Features
— Laser power: 300 W
– Layer thickness: 50 µm-150 µm
- Construction area: 200x200x250 mm
– Capacity: 150 kg
— XY resolution: 70 µm
- Particle diameter: 400 µm (0.4mm)
- Resolution Z: 25 µm
- Argon consumption: 8-11 l / min
— At first start: 25 l/min
— File format: STL/G-CODE
- Powder supply: 3 x 2.
09 liter independently controlled hoppers
Site requirements:
– Space: 300x300x300 cm
- Weight (approx.): 200 kg
— Weight with packaging: 350 kg
— Good ventilation: air circulation at a rate of at least 7 room volumes per hour
About printer
The printer prints using DMLM (Direct Metal Laser Melting) and DMLS (Direct Metal Laser Sintering) technologies, that is, both direct laser fusion and direct metal laser sintering.
This feature allows one device to work with such different materials as stainless steels, cobalt-chromium and aluminum-silicon-manganese alloys, bronze, titanium and its alloys, Inconel, iron and nickel-silicon-boron.
Materials
Stainless steels:
Stainless Steel 304, 309, 316L
They are used in the production of a wide range of parts, the main requirement for which is resistance to corrosion.
They are used literally everywhere, from construction and air conditioning systems, to dishes and jewelry.
Cobalt Chrome:
CoCr ALEXIUM 21PM
and CoCr ALEXIUM 21PM Low C (low carbon)
Cobalt-chromium alloys are mechanically strong and resistant to acidic and alkaline environments, therefore they are used for the manufacture of dental crowns. nine0005
Aluminium-silicon-manganese alloys:
AlSi7Mg and AlSi10Mg
Strong structural alloys. They are used, in particular, in the production of rims, which speaks volumes about their mechanical properties.
Bronze:
Bronze LSM Brz10
Bronze is the oldest alloy known to man: at least 4000 BC. It is used everywhere: from plumbing and jewelry, to the manufacture of all kinds of figurines and monuments, from guitar strings and furniture fittings, to the shipbuilding and aviation industries, from washers and door handles, to medals of Olympic athletes.
nine0005
Titanium and its alloys:
CP Ti, Ti6Al4V
Pure (CP - commercially pure) titanium and its alloys, due to their high strength and low weight, are among the most popular structural materials. Titanium is approximately equal in strength to steel, with almost half the weight. It is used wherever it is economically justified, since the material is not cheap. It is widely used in the construction of ships, aircraft and spacecraft. Titanium alloys are used to make elements of climbing equipment that are light and can withstand heavy loads. nine0005
Inconel:
Inconel 718
Inconel is an austenitic nickel-chromium alloy with high heat resistance and increased acid resistance, the combination of which is superior to tool steels. When heated, it forms a thin and durable oxide film on the surface, which performs protective functions.
Inconel 718 has good weldability, which is not typical of the entire Inconel family. It is processed by slow deep cutting with a carbide tool, which makes it difficult to process it with traditional, non-additive methods. nine0005
Iron:
Iron
In a relatively pure form (no more than 0.8% impurities), iron is used in electrical engineering, for the manufacture of components for batteries and transformers. It is widely used as an inexpensive material in cases where there is no need for long-term resistance to corrosion, as it is cheap, but easily reacts with oxygen and moisture. It can be used for the manufacture of decorative products, subject to mandatory painting or anodizing.
Boron nickel silicide
NiSiB (nickel-silicon-boron)
Nickel silicide is a component of high-temperature nickel alloys; alloys containing boron also have increased hardness.
Adding this powder to the 3D printing mix will increase the hardness and heat resistance of the final product.
Sample prints
The test pieces were printed on an Aurora Labs printer.
Terminals
Since the printer operates in two modes, DMLS and DMLM, and can print a wide range of metal powders, it is the best solution for technical educational institutions and design offices. nine0005
Price and where to buy
The Aurora Labs S-Titanium Pro starts at $55,000 in the US.
This is the best metal 3D printer in its price range.
You can buy Aurora Labs S-Titanium Pro in Russia in Top 3D Shop: to find out the price of the printer in Russia and make a pre-order, write to us: [email protected].
Looking for 3D printers and other equipment for design, manufacturing, institute or college? Write to us, Top 3D Shop employees will help you choose equipment for solving any specialized tasks.
nine0005
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Drivers for Lexmark Z603 | FlyDrivers.Ru
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Driver for printing
Drivers for printing to printer Lexmark Z603. Choose the one that suits you and download it for free.
| Version | nine0139 UpdateOperating system | Description | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1.0.3.1 | 04/01/2010 | Windows Vista x64 | Driver for Microsoft Vista x64 | nine0151|
1. 0.3.1 | 10/21/2006 | Windows Vista | Driver for Microsoft Vista x86 | Download 9.83 Mb |
| 1.0.9.3 | 10/20/2006 | Mac OS 9 | nine0151 Driver for Mac OS 8.6 and 9 Download 8.08 Mb | |
1. 0.4.2 | 10/20/2006 | nine0151 Win98, WinME Lexmark Z600 Series Driver for Microsoft Windows Millennium and Windows 98. \r\n | Download 10.36 Mb | |
| 1.0.20.0 | 10/20/2006 | Mac OS X 10.1 / X 10.2 / X 10.3 / X 10.4 | Lexmark Z600 Series Printer Driver for Mac OS X 10.1, Mac OS X 10.1.5, Mac OS X 10.2.x, Mac OS X 10.3.x, and Mac OS X 10.4.x. | Download 12. |
| 1.0.4.2 | 10/20/2006 | Windows 2000 / 2003, WinXP | Custom Driver for Microsoft Windows 2000, XP and Server 2003 | nine0151
02 Mb Can't find the right type of driver for your Lexmark Z603 printer? Is there a driver that supports the operating system you need in the list? We will help you! nine0005
Request file search
It is highly recommended to always use the latest Lexmark Z603 driver versions available.
Remember to check our website for updates from time to time.
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