See me cnc 3d printer

RAMBo USB Driver for Windows, including Windows 8 (Will require manually installing this driver)

Linux and Mac use CDC the interface and have the hardware driver built in already

Slic3r Pre configured Settings

These older profiles were proven to be good starting points for use with slic3r on stock 3D Printers.  They were taken directly from our own setups at the shop, the only thing you may need to alter is the machine tab to set it to your machine size.

PLA Profile

ABS Profile

T-GLASE Profile

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SeeMeCNC Rostock MAX v3.2 3D Printer - Complete Kit

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3. SeeMeCNC Rostock MAX v3. 2 3D Printer - Complete Kit

The Rostock MAX v3 has been a favorite of our technicians for years because of its laser-like accuracy, and the v3.2 update is even better in every way! The massive Onyx heated bed and extremely flat borosilicate glass build plate allow you to print almost any material (print PLA, ABS, Nylon, and more!). Please note that you will be shipped a black unit.

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Product No. M-H6Q-29AV

THE FAVORITE, WITH GOOD REASON

The SeeMeCNC Rostock MAX V3.2 is a favorite of our technicians here at MatterHackers. Why is it a favorite you ask? Because of its incredible accuracy, low layer height, consistent performance, and ability to deliver on every print job. This printer is a Delta style printer so it excels exceptionally well at printing any kind of arch or circular shape (you can't beat a delta for this kind of task). Additionally, this printer has a truly MASSIVE print volume of over 1300 cubic inches (11" Diameter by over 14 1/2" height). This is one of the largest print volumes available in the consumer 3D printing market. The Rostock MAX V3.2 printers are workhorses and can handle any task you put them up to. All SeeMeCNC Machines are proudly made right here in the USA.

This printer can print in strong industrial grade materials like Nylon and is great for industrial projects and prototyping. Enjoy the incredibly simple and efficient EZR Struder extruder as well as SD Card-ready firmware. If you like to tinker and upgrade this is the printer for you. You will find that a strong, tight-knit community of Rostock MAX owners exists online where everyone shares tips and tricks for maximizing their prints. Rostock owners are passionate about 3D printing and about making and tweaking! This is a powerful machine and it is unmatched in its price category.

Automatic Bed Leveling

SO WHAT’S CHANGED WITH THE NEW V3.

• The V3.2 comes standard with the SeeMeCNC SE300 hotend. This hotend uses a 40w heater cartridge and features thermal runaway protection. The SE300 allows you to print with any material up to 280C. (Jet Kit required for Nylons and other high temperature filaments)
• Features a 32-bit Duet WiFi controller, providing smooth motion, along with the 0.9 degree stepper motors and SeeMeCNC's Cheapskate linear motion design.
• Includes Accel probing feature for easy and accurate automatic bed leveling. This allows you to calibrate your printer with a single click!
• Enjoy the new Onyx heated bed mount which makes the bed float under the glass. This prevents warping while the bed is heated. The bed clips have also been improved to make swapping print surfaces faster than ever. 
• The new EZR Struder comes standard on the V3. This new extruder accommodates faster print speeds and works well with flexible filaments.
• 3 part cooling fans keep PLA prints cool from all sides so that your parts come out looking perfect.

The new EZR Struder

DESIGNED FOR ACCURACY AND PRECISION

The advantage of the delta design is that your printed parts never move because the bed never moves. Only the arms delicately and miraculously move around the part until something beautiful and functional is created. Because this machine is so modifiable, you can buy an additional EZRStruder and you can make your Rostock a dual extruder so you can print two materials at once (fair warning it does require some tinkering and is still experimental).

Three Part Cooling Fans

QUICK NUGGETS OF INFO

• 275mm D x 400mm H Print Area
• Minimum Recommended Layer Height w/.5mm nozzle of .1mm
• Maximum Recommended Layer Height w/.5mm nozzle of .4mm
• Power Requirements 110v or 220v (input power selectable) @ 350 watts
• Max Heated Bed Temp 100c
• Max Hotend Temp 280c (hi temp jet-kit recommended above 250c)
• Max Recommended Printing Speed @. 2mm Layer Height 100mm/s
• Max Travel Speed 300mm/s

• US Made - high quality, laser cut, injection molded, and CNC machined parts
• EZRStruder and Hot-End set up for 1.75mm filament
• High torque NEMA 17 stepper motors
• 32-bit Duet WiFi controller by Duet3D, the best available 3D printer controller
• Speed up to 300mm/s in all motion, not just X/Y moves
• Tinker-friendly electronics and hardware. Many extra places to add your own mods
• Filament spool holder incorporated into the machine (for 1lb or 1kg spools only)
• Borosilicate Glass build plate for safety and precision

OVERALL MACHINE DIMENSIONS

• 18" round area on desk
• 42" tall without spool, 48" with spool mounted
• Appx. 20 pounds assembled

Quality and community are the name of the game with SeeMeCNC. The quality of the printer with the gigantic print build you get for less than $2,000 is simply unmatched anywhere else in the 3D printing industry. This pre-assembled Rostock MAX V3.2 will let you become part of the brotherhood (or sisterhood) of Rostock owners across the world immediately. These owners have one of the most active communities online today where they actively share prints, advice, tips and tricks, and loads of step by step guidance for customizing your Rostock MAX. The reason that this community exists is because Rostock owners are passionate makers and builders. 

Please note that, due to its size and weight, this product cannot be shipped to a PO Box. If you have any questions or would like help making shipping arrangements, please contact [email protected].

Why the first 3D printer is worth assembling yourself / Sudo Null IT News

2. It's faster than waiting from China Anet A8 for $109
3. This is better (with non-crooked hands)

And finally, sooner or later you will face the need to repair / modify the printer and you will still have to master the practical skills for these devices.
And at the most inopportune moment.

And given that there were New Year holidays and long quarantine winter evenings ahead,
I bought all the necessary components in two days in three local stores, which cost the same $ 109.

And only thanks to the "Martian rule" the total amount increased by only three evergreens.
But contrary to the well-known tape from the film, I used blue (and how could I do without it) electrical tape and plastic ties.

In general, if you are only thinking of building a 3D printer - welcome under cat,
where will be my thoughts on the design and assembly of some nodes.
For there are so many detailed assembly instructions on the Internet.

So, let's start with the Martian rule - after purchasing all the necessary components, consider that you are on the red planet, and the next rocket from Earth will be in half a year.

Thanks to this, I avoided an increase in the cost of the device by at least one and a half times and still improved the quality of the mechanical part.

The only thing you can afford is to go to the neighboring manufactured goods or unscrew a spare part from your favorite moon rover is great.

Next, we will talk about assembling a Prusa-compatible Graber I3 printer, but it also applies to any device based on the RAMPS 1.4 + Arduino Mega 2560 control board. his hand and began to shake.

Correct! Without proper mechanical strength, you will either have to set the level of the printer table every time, or screw it with screws to the kitchen worktop.

From this point of view, the presence of a high box at the base adds rigidity compared to the original grabber or Annushka.

But the second time from the start I would have already assembled RepRap Mendel

Yes, the body is made of plywood, as I will have to paint, peel and drill during assembly, the main thing is not to loosen the seats giving room for backlash.

It is better to paint with acrylic varnishes - they do not stink, unless their version is sprayed.

And of course, plywood is preferable to metal in terms of acoustic comfort.

The only disadvantage of the selected ATX version of the case is the inconvenient vertical position of the screen compared to the original Graber version:

Pluses - better durability, you don't have to bother with laying wires and fixing the control board, the use of cheap ATX power supplies.

So we come to the second cornerstone issue - NUTRITION.

Our 12 volt unit should provide 20A.

Remember how you chose a PSU for your gaming/school/work PC?

By weight!

I will say right away that if you buy a new power supply from a store, it is no lighter than 1 kilo and the declared power is from 400W.

If used - look at the current and before use you should remove the cover and blow out all the dust with a compressor - at a tire fitting you will blow it out for three rubles along with cockroaches.

Go ahead, computer scientists / 3D-shniks are cool guys, but sometimes they forget Ohm's law by connecting power to the RAMPS with one, Carl wire AWG-20 (section ~ 0. 5mm sq.)

I did the right thing and made a mistake!!!

On a hot table with a power of 120W, a current of 10A simply melted the power connector

I had to dismantle it and solder the wires.

Yes, about soldering irons - the power of 60W is decidedly small: neither the old-fashioned one with a copper (thick) tip, nor the modern one with a thermostat could melt the solder in the process of soldering an acoustic wire with a cross section of 1.5 squares to a hot table.

I had to unearth an ax from the pantry:

But it will not be a crime to use a wire of 1 square and solder not 3, but 2 twisted AWG-20 wires from the power supply, then 60W is enough.

Continuing the topic of Ohm's law - You have already purchased "cheap" NEMA-17 stepper motors, it's time to look at the current consumption of the windings.

Standard model 1.66 (1.7) A, reinforced - 2 (2.1) A, "quiet / cheap" - 1.33 A, I have the last one.

The current produced by a conventional driver 4988 is up to 2Amps (even the dock does not speak to the winding or in general.

Everything seems OK, but there are two motors and RAMPS on the Z axis, and other control boards obviously contain two connectors for their parallel connection.

No, it's not scary if the R100 resistors are charred at the maximum current (there are boards with R50 for half the current).

And not even that the engines do not receive enough power (I have 0.75A everywhere except for the Z axis)

It's just that with this inclusion, the characteristics of the engines must match ABSOLUTELY, otherwise a wedge / skipping steps is possible in certain modes.

The REPETIER firmware did not cope with this at all, MARLIN got lost once at the stage of moving the extruder from the parking position at the beginning of printing.

Neither shuffling the motors nor the drivers helped.

The Z axis with two motors is saved only by their serial connection:

And oh, miracle, everything worked not on 2 amperes, but on the same 0. 75 like the rest of the axes!

Someone may reproach me for the insufficient accuracy of the assembly of the axles, and as a result, the large required force on the Z-shafts.

I will answer - with the printer turned off, turn the right / left shaft by hand - what will happen to the free one?

That's right, for most it will remain motionless, but for me, when connected in parallel due to self-induction, the second shaft also spun.

Yes, about the shafts - usually, the Graber is designed for Hozmag threaded studs m5 with a pitch of 0.8mm.

They should be lubricated with any paste-like grease for bearings - CV joint, "blue" for needle bearings, graphite and hot grease!

In general, you are on your way to your grandfather's garage / car market, or even better, take lubricant from moon rover bike chain.

Of course, you can also buy the glamorous white Molycote-DX, but this is a matter of taste.

Yes, here the "Martian Rule" saved me for the first time - I screwed up the sockets of the nuts of the left carriage of the Z axis

Almost ran to buy 3D plastic X/Z carriages and "regular" trapezoidal studs/nuts